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Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For April 22, 2019
I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes in a “mini-review” format. They are meant to be quirky, fun, and (mostly) easily-digestible reviews of (mostly) currently available wines (click here for the skinny on how to read them), and are presented links to help you find them, so that you can try them out for yourself. Cheers!
2016 Dry Creek Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel (Sonoma County): Bold, fresh, and kicking the dust off of its trusty leather boots. $33 A-
2016 Day Grist Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley): The supple, sexy sides of showing off one’s power. $43 A-
2017 Bedrock Wine Co. ‘Papera Ranch Heritage’ Red (Russian River Valley): Papera’s got a brand new bag… and it’s full of tea, roses, & character. $60 A-
2016 Matrix Bacigalupi Zinfandel – Petite Sirah (Russian River Valley): All is big and black – as in black fruit, black licorice, black plums, black spices, and a brooding soul as dark as a black, moonless night. $38 A-
2015 Hendry ‘Block 7 & 22’ Zinfandel (Napa Valley): Plummy fruit that’s purer than a mathematical proof. $39 A-
2015 Hendry ‘Block 7’ Zinfandel (Napa Valley): Focused like a missile on delivering big, juciy, jammy black fruit, licorice, and violets. $38 A-
2016 Hendry R.W. Moore Vineyard Zinfandel (Coombsville): More like it’s from “Spiceville” or “Lovelyville.” $40 A-
2017 Rock Wall Wine Company St. Peter’s Church Vineyard Zinfandel (Alexander Valley): Savory and screamin’, so put your big boy/big girl pants on and drink with abandon. $42 B+
2016 Rock Wall Wine Company Hendry Vineyard Block 29 Reserve Zinfandel (Napa Valley): When the term “fruit bomb” can actually be used in a positive context. $45 A-
2015 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville Red (Alexander Valley): Juicy, tempered, and perfumed, and putting on a spice clinic. $48 A-
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For April 22, 2019 from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-april-22-2019/
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Getting The Tables Turned On Me For WIN Advisor
image: Wine Industry Advisor
Just a quick-hit today to let you know that I’m the latest victim subject of the “Turning the Tables – Interviewing the Interviewers” series over at Wine Industry Network. In those articles, Carl Giavanti (who, I must say, has the coolest glasses in all of the wine biz) flips the script on us journalist types, asking us the questions.
You can read my little TtT feature at the WIN Advisor website, if you’re so inclined (and so foolish) as to actually want to get inside of my head for a few minutes. We tackle topics such as recommendations to wineries when working with journalists, my most memorable recent wine tasting experience, whether or not I consider myself an “influencer,” why my postmodern writing style is sometimes the publishing equivalent of (bad) experimental jazz, and how to effectively de-feather a live chicken while driving at high speed in a Ferrari (I might be lying about that last one). You know, the usual stuff.
Cheers!
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Getting The Tables Turned On Me For WIN Advisor from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/getting-the-tables-turned-on-me-for-win-advisor/
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Vinessens 2016 “La Casica del Abuelo” Alicante
Vinessens 2016 “La Casica del Abuelo” Alicante
Vinessens is a small family-owned winery located in Spain’s Valencia wine region. This particular bottle comes from the sub-region of Alicante and is sourced largely from a vineyard of 80-year-old Monastrell vines. This is the type of Spanish wine that is so undervalued that it is criminal. Locally, this currently available for less than $11, and drinks like a wine twice it’s price.
The nose has a sauvage element, studded with cinnamon and smoke. The palate is medium bodied and lush, with a thread of acidity turning the dark fruit into a hit of Meyer lemon on the finish. A funky note of wet earth shows a nod to natural winemaking. Monastrell loves oak, and there is plenty here, but it’s well-balanced and plays well the other elements in this wine. Serve this with smoked pork butt or some duck confit.
The post Vinessens 2016 “La Casica del Abuelo” Alicante appeared first on Wine School of Philadelphia.
Source: https://www.vinology.com/vinessens-2016-la-casica-del-abuelo-alicante/
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“Sweet Lincoln’s Mullet!” (2019 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge Highlights)
I recently had the honor of judging at the 2019 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge (now in its 37th year!), the results of which have been published, allowing me to share some of my thoughts on a few surprises that my panel had the good fortune of tasting during the competition. When I wasn’t feeding errant seagulls who begged at my hotel room window, that is. It’s a long story.
Anyway, seasoned 1WD readers will recall that I’ve been infecting the Stay-Classy-San-Diego-based Critics Challenge competition for the last few years, but this was my first time joining much of the same well-heeled, finely-tuned crew for the SD Challenge. I’m happy to report that the SD incarnation is every bit as fun and professionally-executed as CC, and I’m already crossing my fingers that I’ll be back next year. [ By the way, if you’re curious about how the details on these competitions go down, listen to head honcho Robert Whitley dish on it over at the Wine Biz 360 podcast. ]
Who got somethin’ for Deebo?!?
One of the most interesting – and fun… and humbling – things about judging wines blind is that occasionally some items surprise you, busting up your preconceived notions and turning you on to things you might otherwise overlook. The 2019 SD Challenge proved particularly generous in that regard. Here are a handful of vinous items that impressed my panel (Platinum medal winners all), the majority of which are over-achieving budget lovelies, tailor-made for Spring sipping by the San Diego seaside in a manner that would make Ron Burgundy himself beam with pride. Okay, before we start, let’s go over the ground-rules… No touching of the hair or face… And that’s it. Now FIGHT!…
2018 Cavit Rosé (Trevenezie, $12)
Technically, this one was filed under the Rosé – Medium Sweet category, which I suspect was a snafu on the part of the whoever submitted this wine for the producer. Doesn’t matter, because this little number would have shined in almost any category at its price-point. Wild raspberry, roses, lemon peel, a zesty flair, and loveliness throughout; enough of this might have you saying things like “that’s the smell of desire, my lady…” Or maybe that’s just me.
2018 SeaGlass Rosé (Monterey County, $13)
Mostly Pinot Noir, with a bit of Syrah, this is as complete a rosé experience as one would hope to get without the word “Provence” on the label. Watermelon, strawberry, flower petals, citrus zest, with a finish that just won’t quit, and a life-affirmative aroma that jumps out of the glass with gusto. “It’s quite pungent. It’s a formidable scent. It stings the nostrils. In a good way.”
2018 Imagery Estate Winery Silva Vineyard Albariño (Sonoma Valley, $29)
One of the better examples of this white grape outside of the Iberian Peninsula, Imagery has crafted a stellar, balanced white here. Sporting verve and amazing length, you get lemon zest, exotic fruits, and playing and trombones and flowers and garlands of fresh herbs…”
Cheers!
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at “Sweet Lincoln’s Mullet!” (2019 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge Highlights) from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/sweet-lincolns-mullet-2019-san-diego-international-wine-spirits-challenge-highlights/
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Wild Horse 2015 “Cheval Sauvage” Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley
Wild Horse 2015 “Cheval Sauvage” Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley
Long before the movie Sideways, Santa Barbara County has been a hot spot for Pinot Noir. In particular, Sanat Maria Valley is home to some of California’s top vineyards for the grape. That list of top spots includes Garey, Rancho Real, Rancho Sisquoc, and Bien Nacido vineyards. All four of them found their way into this remarkable bottle.
Steeped plums, earl grey tea, and molten licorice make for an exhilarating aroma. Hedonistic flavors and lush texture amplify the pleasure here. Then comes a rich chocolate flavor that is complex but also simple: it is the holy trinity of movie theatre candy, blended together: Milk Duds, Sno-Caps, and Raisinets. That moment disappears. You are left with flavors that can only be described as eating steak tartare from a rusty can. And somehow that feels just right. This is a wine is full of impossible contradictions and is immensely better for it.
As of this writing, this bottle was selling for under $20 in and around Philadelphia. Considering this sells for $65 at the winery, I’d say this is one of the greatest values for Pinot Noir in some time.
The post Wild Horse 2015 “Cheval Sauvage” Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley appeared first on Wine School of Philadelphia.
Source: https://www.vinology.com/wild-horse-2015-cheval-sauvage-pinot-noir-santa-maria-valley/
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Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For April 15, 2019
I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes in a “mini-review” format. They are meant to be quirky, fun, and (mostly) easily-digestible reviews of (mostly) currently available wines (click here for the skinny on how to read them), and are presented links to help you find them, so that you can try them out for yourself. Cheers!
2017 San Valentino Bio ‘Vivi’ (Colli di Rimini Rebola): White flowers, white peaches, red cheeks from drinking so much of it. $16 B+
2017 San Valentino ‘Bacaia’ Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore (Emilia-Romagna): Vibrant, spicy, versatile, delightful, and dammit please bring me a hamburger! $NA B+
2016 San Valentino Terra di Covignano Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva (Emilia-Romagna): Single vineyard, single clone, various responses – from plummy sexiness, to leathery grip, to funky vibrancy. $NA B+
2017 Celli ‘I Croppi’ Secco (Albana di Romagna): Apricots, saline, flowers, minerals; this is the luv that happens when this zesty grape meets the right limestone soils. $13 B+
2015 Celli ‘Bron & Ruseval’ Sangiovese Bertinoro di Romagna (Emilia-Romagna): Sour cherries and orange peel held together with sinewy tension. $NA B+
NV Osborne ‘Sibarita’ 30 Year Old V.O.R.S Oloroso Sherry (Andalucia): Basically, you will burst out into song with “Spanish Caravan” in praise of this, or you probably lack a soul. $99 A
2016 The Infinite Monkey Theorem Cabernet Franc (Grand Valley): When otherwise friendly Colorado gets mysteriously dangerous in its dark intensity. $24 B+
2017 Whitewater Hill Riesling (Grand Valley): You’ll dig the honeysuckle, lychee, and sweet green apple; you’ll just wish that they hung around longer. $14 B-
2018 Gran Moraine Rose of Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District): So zesty, so vibrant, so earthy, so tasty, so pricey. $30 B+
2017 Bonterra Vineyards Rose (Mendocino County): You want to drink a lot of this. Yeah, you do. Admit it. $16 B
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For April 15, 2019 from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-april-15-2019/
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Julia’s Dazzle 2017 Pinot Gris Rose, Columbia Valley
Julia’s Dazzle Pinot Gris Rose Columbia Valley 2017
Don’t judge this wine by its bottle. This is the type of packaging I’d expect for a White Zinfandel geared towards functional alcoholics that sell bedazzled dog leashes on Esty. This is not such a wine: it’s a project by winemaker Gilles Nicaul of Long Shadows winery in Washington State’s Columbia Valley.
This is a seriously good rosé, a skin-fermented pinot grigio from a single vineyard in Horse Heaven Hills. This is a beautiful wine that is this closer to an orange wine in technique than the fermented sadness that is white zinfandel.
Every spring and summer I pack my fridge with delicious rosés. I expect bottles of this wine will be gracing my top shelf from now to August. Sage and apple-skin aromas are followed by rich textures and freshness. Flavors of wild strawberry and tangerine are complicated with a hint of herbs and spiced coconut.
The post Julia’s Dazzle 2017 Pinot Gris Rose, Columbia Valley appeared first on Wine School of Philadelphia.
Source: https://www.vinology.com/julias-dazzle-2017-pinot-gris-rose-columbia-valley/
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We Now Interrupt Our Regularly Scheduled Features To Kick Your Ass
Lately, I’ve been reserving this virtual space for featuring producers I have recently (ok, ok, more like not-so-recently) visited in-person, with my feet in tasting rooms, cellars, vineyards, dilapidated vineyard trucks, etc.
Today, however, I’m taking a short break from that feature run to turn your attention towards three items from the ever-expanding sample pool, all of which are exemplary examples of exquisite vinous fare, and all of which are perfectly capable of pulverizing your wine-guzzling ass in the best ways possible. Be forewarned, shiz is about to get very expensive.
2013 Herdade do Mouchão Tinto (Alentejo, $40)
One could make a very serious argument that this red is the finest produced in all of Alentejo, and maybe the world’s finest expression of the sometimes-maligned and almost-always-misunderstood Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira grape varieties. I was converted to the chrch of Mouchão a couple of years ago, and happily have never looked back. Texture, tension, bramble, herbs, berries, graphite, and barely-tamed wildness are the names of the game (ok, that’s a long name but whatever). In terms of aging, this is a red that can easily go a decade without breaking a sweat…
2013 Tamarack Cellars 20th Anniversary “Emerald Release” Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley, $100)
How ironic… from a producer whose wines I sometimes have found to be a tad paunchy when it comes to their prices comes a guilty pleasure of a red that I cannot help but love and find well-worth the price-tag despite it being their most expensive offering. This release, celebrating Tamarack’s emerald anniversary, is a blend of fruit from all of the vineyards that go into their various reserve wines (Seven Hills Vineyard Reserve, Sagemoor Vineyards Reserve, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Reserve, and Tapteil Reserve), blended after 24 months (it also contains 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot). You’d better like them big, rich, and full of savory meat, cedar, leather, and ripe cassis and blueberry. But if you do, you will find a steakhouse dinner match that is nigh impossible to beat. Extra props for the elegant etched label design.
NV Osborne ‘Sibarita’ 30 Year Old V.O.R.S Oloroso Sherry (Andalucia, $99)
Osborne’s pickup of this, as well as the almost equally as kick-ass “Capuchino” Palo Cortado VORS Sherry, has been a coup for diehard Sherry lovers. This is the type of Oloroso that you can sniff and contemplate for hours before realizing that you have yet to even take a sip. The notes of toasted almonds, pecan, dried fig, and caramel are pure enough that if your eyes were closed you’d be forgiven for thinking that someone had just brought you a plate of some kind of amazing dessert. In terms of it being hedonistic in its generosity… well, its name translates to sybarite, after all. I might still be tasting the finish from this after a few days; or, perhaps, I’m just wishing the reliving of that experience back into existence.
Cheers!
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at We Now Interrupt Our Regularly Scheduled Features To Kick Your Ass from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/we-now-interrupt-our-regularly-scheduled-features-to-kick-your-ass/
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Castelli del Grevepesa 2015 “Clemente VII” Chianti Classico
Castelli del Grevepesa 2015 “Clemente VII” Chianti Classico
This tale starts with our protagonist leaving their sylvan homestead in search of their destiny. With an eye to making their mark in the world, they make their way to a sprawlingly romantic city on a hill. After trials and tribulations, they succeed, but not in a way that people will resent their good fortune.
This particular story is about Gualtiero Nunzi, who founded his namesake winery in the 19th century in Tuscany and retired to the great city of Florence. His family kept the tradition alive for two centuries. His great-grandson Gualtiero Armando Nunzi then founded the local winery cooperative in 1965, Castelli del Grevepesa, which has been a Wine School favorite for several vintages now.
The 2015 Chianti Classico tops that list. Sangiovese has several personalities. At times, it can be aggressivo e tannico, but other times it can offer up fiori delicati e profumo. In this incarnation, it is delicate and complex; the perfect partner for Pici Cacio e Pepe, or any other fresh-and-simple Tuscan pasta.
Don’t mistake its lightness for simplicity. Darkly aromatic, it’s crisp red fruit is buttressed with cloves and cigar smoke. Wet earth and thinly boned tannins make for a dramatic finish.
The post Castelli del Grevepesa 2015 “Clemente VII” Chianti Classico appeared first on Wine School of Philadelphia.
Source: https://www.vinology.com/castelli-del-grevepesa-2015-clemente-vii-chianti-classico/
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Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For April 8, 2019
I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes in a “mini-review” format. They are meant to be quirky, fun, and (mostly) easily-digestible reviews of (mostly) currently available wines (click here for the skinny on how to read them), and are presented links to help you find them, so that you can try them out for yourself. Cheers!
2015 Tenuta La Viola Bertinoro ‘P.Honorii’ Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva (Emilia-Romagna): Ready for battle, with a steely-eyed glare and more than it’s fair share of grit & resolve. $NA A-
2015 Giovanna Madonia Cantina di Bertinoro ‘Ombroso’ Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva (Emilia-Romagna): Kicking ass, and taking names, using its ample graphite pencil for the latter. $NA B+
2016 Peter Zemmer ‘Giatl’ Pinot Grigio Alto Adige Riserva (Trentino-Alto Adige): Any sexier and it’d need to be featured in an adult magazine spread. $38 B+
2011 Caiarossa Rosso di Toscana (Tuscany): Still fruity, savory, and pretty, even if it’s put on a few extra pounds over the years. $60 A-
2016 Alara Cellars Tempranillo (San Benito Valley): Smokey tobacco FTW, people!! $41 A-
2015 Dutton-Goldfield Dutton Ranch Cherry Ridge Syrah (Russian River Valley): Meaty, tangy, spicy, and basically irresistible. $50 A-
2016 Dutton-Goldfield Rued Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley): Leaning into all of its curves with precision and focus. $55 A-
2014 Louis M. Martini Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley): Round, rich, and ready to make most of your friends feel very, very good. $33 B+
2018 Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay (Mendoza): Fun is written all over this one; it’s already saying “you’re welcome.” $12 B
2017 Bodega Colome Autentico Malbec (Calchaqui Valley): Case-worthy buy of plummy, spicy, meaty excellence. $30 A-
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For April 8, 2019 from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-april-8-2019/
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It’s Good To Be The Princess (Azienda Vitivinicola Condé Recent Releases)
Chiara Condello in non-princess mode
Chiara Condello grew up “ten minutes away” from Predappio’s Azienda Vitivinicola Condé, a place so picturesque – even by exceptionally picturesque Romagna standards – that it houses its own resort, which in turn houses its own restaurant in an area that’s nearly synonymous with Italian cuisine.
Condello’s father, Francesco, established this little slice of Napa-Route-29-in-the-heart-of-Romagna-wine-country in 2001, after retiring from real-estate finance brokering and consolidating nearly 80 hectares of vineyards (73 of which are devoted to Sangiovese, with a bit of Merlot and chardonnay making up the rest) from their previous owners.
The U-shaped Condé estate has 52 parcels, from which 7 wines are made, and boasts plantings dating back to the late 1930s on Spungone soils (sandy, sponge-like limestone rich in ancient seabed fossils) that date back a lot further (over three million years, to the Pliocene). In other words, it’s prime Sangio growing territory, with good winegrowing and winemaking talent behind it (including agronomist Federico Curtaz, eonologist Stefano Zoli, and Tuscan consultant Federico Staderini). Of course, they also have olive production. And, of course, they’re organic (“for me, it was crucial,” notes Chiara, “in terms of respect; I don’t want to change the balance that we have in the area”).
Chiara Condello has four acres of her own to play with on the estate, and has access to all of Condé’s winemaking resources. But before you write her off as embodying the stereotype of a modern European princess, you should know that Chiara studied Economics at Luigi Bocconi University in Milan; and got her CEMS Master in International Management; and is currently studying eonology; and seems to know what the hell she is doing when it comes to making Sangiovese (something that I learned firsthand when tasting these wines during a recent media visit)…
2017 Condé Sangiovese Rosato Forlì (Emilia-Romagna, $NA)
Sangio is one of the most underestimated varieties for rosé production, and the Forlì is a good Exhibit A example of why this grape should be on your rosato radar. Strawberry, watermelon, roses, raspberry, cherry, citrus peel, vivacity – in other words, all of the delightful rosé stuff that you want, with none of the overly-astringent stuff that you don’t.
2015 Chiara Condello Romagna Sangiovese (Emilia-Romagna, $NA)
Condello blends this pet-project red using grapes from vines that are at least a decade older than she is, planted on the estate’s three different soil types (including more clay and marine rock in addition to the aforementioned spungone). The result is a balanced presentation of Romagna Sangio – tobacco, dark herbs, deep black fruits (including cherries and plums), but with floral notes, lift, and minerality. It’s at once bold, pretty, and easy to like.
2015 Chiara Condello ‘Le Lucciole’ Rosso (Emilia-Romagna, $NA)
About 4000 bottles were made of “the fireflies,” a 100% Sangiovese from Condé’s clay soils, aged in 35 hl slavonian oak casks. This is a more serious effort: tight, young, and refined. It’s spicy, smoky, and floral on the nose, followed by a mouthfeel that is full of dark cherry and plum fruits, but presented with a gentleness that’s getting rare in high-end Sangio these days. The finish is full of mineral, smoke, and red berries, and it lingers almost as long as the memory of drinking this beauty.
2015 Condé ‘Raggio Brusa’ Sangiovese Predappio Riserva (Emilia-Romagna, $NA)
With a name like “Burning Ray” (of the site’s sun exposure), I suppose you would be forgiven for picturing a more intensity, burlish, riper red, and you’d be mostly right. From rocky soils, this is definitely Condé’s more robust Sangiovese – smoky, dark, and full of riper (and in some cases, raisined) red fruit flavors. But… there are also dried rose petals and graphite, and while it’s undoubtedly intense, it’s also got lift, focus, and purity. It finishes with senses of perfume and fresh juiciness, and, dare we say it, hope in this producer’s winemaking youth.
Cheers!
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at It’s Good To Be The Princess (Azienda Vitivinicola Condé Recent Releases) from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/azienda-vitivincola-conde-recent-releases/
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Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For April 1, 2019
I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes in a “mini-review” format. They are meant to be quirky, fun, and (mostly) easily-digestible reviews of (mostly) currently available wines (click here for the skinny on how to read them), and are presented links to help you find them, so that you can try them out for yourself. Cheers!
2015 San Patrignano ‘Avi’ Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva (Emilia-Romagna): Long on the herbs, wood, spices, black cherries, structure, and, well, on pretty much everything. $35 A-
2017 Enio Ottaviani ‘Strati’ Romagna Pagadebit (Emilia-Romagna): Pear, White Fig, and Grapefruit all go surfing together. $NA B+
2017 Domaine de Sainte Cecile du Parc ‘Notes Frivoles’ Rose (Pays de Caux): With all of that pleasing structural bite, it’s not really living up to its namesake – in good ways. $17 B
2014 Christine Mouton Bertoli Domaine de Sainte Cecile du Parc ‘Sonatina’ (Coteaux du Languedoc): Bring on the BBQ, because this one has some savory meat to smoke up. $24 B+
2017 Ferraton Pere & Fils ‘Plan de Dieu’ (Cotes du Rhone Villages): We could talk about how floral, earthy, and solid this is, but it’d be a hell of a lot more fun to just drink it. $15 B
NV Leclerc-Briant Reserve Brut (Champagne): Almonds, brioche, lemons, and decided improvement since its last report card. $65 A-
2014 Taylors Wakefield Exceptional Parcel Release ‘The Visionary’ Cabernet Sauvignon (Clare Valley): Eucalyptus, cassis, and a near-incredible sense of wonder. $200 A
2012 Truchard Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Carneros): This old fellow still has plenty of charm, attitude, and cigars to share. $38 A-
2015 Sosie Wines Spring Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma County): A fine teakhouse plate – as in, bold and meaty, but also refined. $43 A-
2015 Sosie Wines Vivio Vineyard Roussanne (Bennett Valley): Oily/vibrant, floral/rich; it kind of enjoys showing off its contrasts. $38 A-
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For April 1, 2019 from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-april-1-2019/
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10 Tips For Food and Wine Pairings
Eating what you like with a glass of your favorite wine is a great idea; eating should be a pleasure. But food and wine pairings are not a solitary affair. When was the last time you saw a restaurant full of people eating alone? For most of us, it is a shared pleasure, one which everyone is seeking pleasure, not just yourself.
To entice others, we have to think like a sommelier, and that means adopting a few rules. Some food goes better with certain types of wine, and there is a tug-of-war between science and tradition in every successful match. Pairing food with wine is a creative endeavor as much as a chemistry experiment. We will cover many details here. If you are interested in delving deeper, check out our food and wine pairing classes.
The following ten rules are a good starting point to take your pairings in the right direction, approaching the craft of wine and food pairing with the jaded eye of a realist and the lilt of a folk singer.
Learn About Food and Wine Pairing
#10 Pair by Weight
No matter if you’re talking about salads or stews, you can intrinsically determine the overall weight of a dish, especially when comparing it to another. A mixed green salad is lighter than a more substantial salad with feta cheese, roast peppers, and olives. Grilled chicken breasts are lighter than roast chicken. The sauce, dressing, amount of fat, the calories, they all (literally) weight in.
You can also measure wine by perceived weight. A California Zinfandel is weightier than a Sonoma Merlot; Merlot is heavier than a Carneros Pinot. Heavy reds match better with heavy dishes.
For whites, oak-aged wines from warm weather are bigger than ones aged in stainless-steel. Heavy whites go better with cooked fatty fish and poultry, while lighter ones are better with light plates of sashimi and sushi, for example.
#9 Pair by Cooking Method
The way you cook something alters its pairing possibilities. A grilled lobster tail might work better with a full-bodied Chardonnay; poached lobster will be nicer with a subtle Pinot Gris; lobster ceviche will play deftly with a coastal Sauvignon Blanc.
Like with rule #10, grilled or roasted food can stand more assertive wines, with higher tannin and alcohol. Will you steam your fish filet? or will you glaze and roast it?
#8 Pair to Complement
Leaving weight aside, you can marry food with wines that have similar flavors and aromas. Earthy Burgundian Pinot Noirs can have notes of undergrowth and mushrooms, making them a complementary match with mushroom-based dishes. A creamy, buttery, oaked Chardonnay will pair with equally creamy sauces.
Cabernet Sauvignon can taste like bell peppers so grilled peppers on the side might enhance any pairing. The same principle applies to Syrah and its black pepper aromas, which will beautifully enhance a steak au poivre.
#7 Pair by Contrast
On the other hand, you can contrast flavors looking for harmony. You don’t eat spicy food with a spicy wine; you pair it with sweet wine. Complement oysters au gratin with a creamy white wine, or contrast it with a tangy, crisp one. It’s up to you. Sour balances sweet, sweet balances bitterness. You get the idea.
#6 Pair Local
Local food evolved to harmonize with local wine. Especially in regions with long winemaking tradition. Tomato based Italian dishes will pair nicely with a Primitivo, a plate of choucroute garnie is very enjoyable with Alsatian whites. Beef bourguignon loves earthy Pinots and cured meats love Rioja. Even new world cuisines are shaped by old world cooking; do your research and find common ingredients.
#5 Pairing Dessert
Desserts are ambitious to pair. Go for a sweet wine as long as the wine is sweeter than the dessert itself, or else it will taste dull. In a bold move, you can pair chocolate desserts with dry red wine, but it must be rich and jammy, think Aussie Shiraz or old vine Zinfandel. When possible, add red berry coulis or marmalade to any dessert to help strengthen the bond mirroring the fruity aromas in the wine.
#4 Pair with the Occasion
Brut Champagne tastes odd with wedding cake, but the occasion calls for such a pairing. No one wants to toast with a Moscato in the most important day of their lives even if the wine will taste better with cake than Champagne. A value-oriented Cava would be a reasonable suggestion for a toast at the office holiday party; you can save the Prestige Cuvée for some other time.
#3 Pair with the People
Don’t just think about the occasion, think about the people. Sommeliers often forget that they’re selecting wines for the guests, and not for themselves. Asses the wine knowledge, experience, and expectations of your audience and pick the correct wine. A Grand Cru dry Riesling might work beautifully with coconut shrimp, but if your friends are all beer drinkers, pop open a less contemplative wine, or even better, a fancy beer.
#2 All Around Pairings
When in doubt, pour Champagne. The tight acidity and freshness of the sparkling wine will pair well with any dish whether in contrast or as a compliment. A palate cleanser if you wish, Champagne elevates any dining experience, from starters to dessert.
#1 Experiment
There’s no perfect pairing, every palate is different. With so many variables, even a well-thought pairing might not work out as planned. But don’t worry, this only means that you can find unexpected, successful pairings with a little creativity. Put on your scientist hat and experiment.
The post 10 Tips For Food and Wine Pairings appeared first on Wine School of Philadelphia.
Source: https://www.vinology.com/10-tips-for-food-and-wine-pairings/
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Bless You, For You Hath Zin’d (ZinEx 2019 Highlights)
MS, MW, friend of 1WD, and exceptionally cool wine geek Doug Frost is not a man to mince words. As a media guest recently for the 2019 incarnation of Zinfandel Experience in San Francisco, I managed to catch up briefly with Doug, who had this to say regarding Zinfandel continuously being cited as the quintessential American grape variety:
“That’s utter bullshit.”
This is, of course, because Zinfandel is actually of Croatian origin, where it sometimes goes by the name of Tribidrag (which might also be the name of a character from The Silmarillion… I’m not sure). In the shorter-term history of American fine wine, however, Zinfandel does have deeper roots than most other grapes, Croatian or otherwise. As Frost put it, “back in 1961, Sonoma’s principal grape was Zin.”
The wonderful Walkabout chaos of ZinEx 2019
ZinEx, for me, consisted of several tastings, both media-only and open to the public, though I find the former a lot easier to digest than the latter (I’m not exactly a large guy, so it’s not easy to signal my way to a spit bucket with a mouthful of high-octane red wine in a crowded room). The minor suffering was worth it, of course, as ZinEx was chock full of excellent examples of the surprising versatility of California’s adopted Croat wonder-boy grape.
Following are highlights from my ZinEx encounters (skipping badges, because there are just too many recommendations, 90% of which would just be tagged “Kick-Ass” anyway)…
NV Rock Wall Sparkling Zinfandel (Lake County, $40)
Let’s just kick things off the right way – with something bubbly, and something totally unexpected. What the actual f*ck is this doing here, all earthy and bright and exciting and turning our expectations of burly Zin firmly on its ear? As Rock Wall winemaker Shauna Rosenblum perfectly described this to me: “It’s like one of those barrel-aged [beer] sours, but without the Brett and lactose!”
2016 Robert Biale Vineyards Aldo’s Vineyard Zinfandel (Napa Valley, $85)
Hailing from Zin grown on clay soils, Aldo’s is a gorgeously layered red; bay leaf spiciness, and red/blue/black fruits that have both depth and length, all bound together in a stylized, excellent experience.
2016 Scott Harvey ‘Vineyard 1869’ Zinfandel (Amador County, $49)
Most of this fruit comes from 147+ year old vines, and they are doing their part to up the perception game of Amador in general. Sporting bay leaf, leather, black licroice, berry compote, plums, raisins along with savory and floral notes, this is broad, generous, powerful, and yet able to capture a bouncy step within its friendly fruitiness.
2016 Peachy Canyon ‘Willow’ Zinfandel (Paso Robles, $44)
Nothing to weep about here. Winemaker Robert Henson attributes this wine’s sweeter array of spices, plums, mint, roses, and bramble to the “pure chalk” soils that extend down “at least fifteen feet,” making the vines work for their suppers while their western location in Paso allows for more ocean influences. This is an open, deep Zin, with textbook ripe tannins, and yet hints of greener herbs and red cranberries that liven it up.
2017 Bedrock Wine Co. Evangelho Vineyard Heritage Red (Contra Costa County, $45)
Morgan Twain-Peterson, son of Zin icon Joel Peterson, literally grew up with the grape, and that shows in the Bedrock Evangelho (here acoompanied by Carignane and Mataro). Savory, quite herbal, and rocking the cranberry and peppercorn before moving into darker/riper plum flavors, this is a sultry, supple, spicy, and well-made red. A big, powerful boy it is, too
2016 Ravenswood Winery Single Vineyard Belloni Zinfandel (Russian River Valley, $42)
Not to be outdone by his offspring, the company that Morgan Twain-Peterson’s father famously founded is not exactly slouching in the single-vineyard Zin department, either. A focused, mineral, and refined effort, Ravenswood’s Belloni has ample dried herb action, graphite hints, and an approach to its powerful dark fruit flavors that’s akin to a big fist in a velvet glove.
Riiiiiiiinger
2005 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs (Dry Creek Valley, $NA)
Folks, this is what we call a “ringer.” Ridge president David Amadia showed up with this aged beauty, which is based on about 77% Zinfandel from field-blend 1901 plantings. It’s stunning. Black cherry, bramble, graphite, earth… this is juuuuust starting to soften and is now coming fully into its own as a stellar product of a stellar DCV vintage.
2016 Berryessa Gap Zinfandel (Yolo County, $22)
Berryessa Gap’s winemaker Nicole Salengo seems deceptive; while youthful, she is packing a decade of experience under her belt, as well as studies in Geology and viticulture. Yolo sits about thirty miles east of Rutherford, and Salengo is convinced it’s an area that’s worthy of its own terroir discussions; to wit, her 2016 Zin (of which only 600 cases were made). Based on a Primitivo clone, this is leathery, smoky, meaty stuff, with powerful dark cherry flavors; but the real delight comes in the tea-like herbal notes and vibrant acid profile.
2014 DeLoach Vineyards Saitone Vineyard Olivet Bench Zinfandel (Russian River Valley, $45)
By the numbers: 300 cases, 25% new oak, 1895 (head-pruned) plantings that are 90% Zin. For all of its sexiness, this red is fresh, bright, herbal, focused, and textured. Sure, there’s raspberry compote galore, but the vivacity and concentration are so natural that they exude texture, purity, and a sense of purpose.
2016 Pedroncelli ‘Courage’ Faloni Vineyard Zinfandel (Sonoma County, $32)
Queue the Cowardly Lion… Anyway… 2016 is the inaugural vintage of this red, crafted from fruit that has been farmed for three generations in the northwest valley floor of Dry Creek. Sexy, supple, savory, sultry, and supersized, this is Big Boy territory done right, with a splash of cardamom for good measure.
2015 McCay Cellars Faith Lot 13 Vineyard Zinfandel (Lodi, $32)
Michael McCay is now Lodi’s patron saint of elegance, continuously teasing out a more feminine side of the burly grape. The Faith Lot is right on that target – spiced plums, saline, minerals, currants, cranberries, roses, all with length, juiciness, verve, and an sense of reserve that belies the age of its 1915 source fruit plantings.
2016 Hendry Block 24 Primitivo (Napa Valley, $39)
Whaaaaaaat. The. Hell?!?? Napa Zin that’s not overdone, overpriced, and made from the oft-maligned Primitivo, to boot? Broad, floral, and vibrant, this is a red to love. Dark cherries, plums, incredible spiciness, and oodles of pepper. You can get lost in a wine like this.
2015 Domaine de la Terre Rouge Easton Shenandoah Valley Estate Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills, $35)
Head-trained vines, influenced by the cool air of nearby Carson’s Pass make up Easton’s plummy, jammy Estate Zin. There’s a lot of ass being kicked here, with cardamom, clay, pepper, and nearly to-die-for texture.
2012 Beekeeper Cellars Madrone Spring Vineyard Zinfandel (Rockpile, $NA)
Ian Blackburn included 20% Petite Sirah in this Zin, and it’s kind of a crime that there’s no more left… though it makes a compelling argument for seeking out the rest of his low-production reds. Smoked meat, roses, pepper, and spices give way to both structure and heft, that in turn gives way to a sense of crisp, clean clarity.
2016 Once & Future “Frank’s Block” Teldeschi Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley, $50)
No one escapes ZinEx without encountering Joel Peterson and his wines, which now are under the Once & Future label, and the fabled Teldeschi vineyard, its 30 acres of early 1900s plantings on gravelly clay loam having produced some stellar Zins. Joel’s version includes small amounts of Carignan and Alicante Bouschet, with the result being both complex and crowd-pleasing. Layers of red and black fruits, moving from jammy to tart, rounded out by roses, violets, and a beautiful sense of tension.
Cheers!
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Bless You, For You Hath Zin’d (ZinEx 2019 Highlights) from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/zinex-2019-highlights/
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Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For March 25, 2019
I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes in a “mini-review” format. They are meant to be quirky, fun, and (mostly) easily-digestible reviews of (mostly) currently available wines (click here for the skinny on how to read them), and are presented links to help you find them, so that you can try them out for yourself. Cheers!
2017 Tenuta Masselina ‘Masselina Albana’ (Romagna Albana): Whie peach, white blossom, and a penchant for pairing with fine cheeses. $NA B+
2013 Tenuta Masselina Sangiovese di Romagna Riserva (Emilia-Romagna): Making bramble and tobacco seem fresh, elegant, and – above all – full of potential. $NA A-
2016 Tre Monti ‘Thea’ Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva (Emilia-Romagna): Just like a laser – taught, linear, and focused. $29 B+
2016 Tenuta St Lucia Taibo Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore (Emilia-Romagna): Brighter as a valedictorian, tasty as a bushel of fresh cherries. $NA B+
2015 Tenuta del Gelso Braschi ‘Monte Sasso’ San Vicino Sangiovese Romagna (Emilia-Romagna): A pit of dark, deep fruity depths, ringed with rustic, earthy edges at the precipice. $NA B+
2016 Pedroncelli Pedroni-Bushnell Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley): A pendulum swinging between deep black berries and red currants, with big, bold swings. $24 B+
2017 Robert Biale Vineyards R.W. Moore Vineyard Zinfandel (Coombsville): From soils like the surface of the moon come dense, dusty, dark fruitiness that’s out of this world. $70 A-
2016 Rodney Strong Estate ‘Old Vines’ Zinfandel (Northern Sonoma): Herbs, cedar, cocoa, and juicy plums takes you on a wild ride, then share a cigar with you when it’s over. $25 B+
2015 Tres Sabores Rutherford Perspective Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley): Singing Napa’s favorite tune, and the performance is pretty much pitch-perfect. Also, there’s more pencil lead here than in a grade school classroom trashcan. $124 A
NV Bodega Amalaya Brut Nature (Cafayate): Flowers and blossoms to spare, with sides of apple slices and brioche. $12 B
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For March 25, 2019 from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-march-25-2019/
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The Six Worst Food and Wine Pairings
We learn from failure, not from success. And although food and wine pairings are subjective, and depend on the peoples’ taste and preference, some mismatches simply feel odd. A good pairing brings out the best in food, wine, or both; a bad one can easily do the opposite.
As Woody Allen said, “If you’re not failing every now and again, it’s a sign that you’re not doing anything very innovative.”
Here are a few bad pairings you should at least experiment with, just to identify what to avoid. If you want some professional help, you may want to attend a food and wine pairing class to help you avoid some of these mistakes.
Don’t Fall Victim to these Bad Food Pairings
Bad Pairing #1: Heavy wines with light dishes
The easiest way to come up with a lousy pairing is not considering the weight of the food in relation with wine. A robust California Zinfandel with a light tuna salad. Bad pairings like these frequently come from the idea that you should drink whatever you want with any given dish. People that only drink one style of wine might not find it that enjoyable when the food falls short and gives in to the wine. Rich wines with rich food and delicate wines with delicate dishes that’s the rule. Switch those out, and you have a recipe for disaster.
The same rule applies the other way. Intensely flavored dishes will crush delicate wines. A Burgundian Pinot will feel out of place against a platter of grilled BBQ ribs.
Bad Pairing #2: Too sweet for the wine
Desserts can be overwhelming. Restraint, after all, is a word seldom used by pastry chefs. Overly sweet desserts flatten any wine on sight. If the wine is not sweeter than the dessert, it will taste watery and dull; simply acidic. To pair a sugar-overdosed dish, you have to either go bone dry, to counter the sweetness (think Champagne extra brut) or go over the top with a cloying wine like Pedro Ximenez, ice wine or Tokaji. Why do my pairings feel wrong? It probably because of sugar. Sugar in food is the silent killer of the inexperienced sommelier’s pairings.
Bad Pairing #3: More acid that you can handle
The same can be said about acidity. If the food has a higher acidity than wine, you’re in trouble. Acidic dishes like ceviche, that often have hefty amounts of lime juice, are an obvious example. Try your favorite Mexican shrimp ceviche with a regular Chardonnay and see the wine fall apart. You need wines with piercing acidity (think cold regions) to match acidity from citrus. Tomato-based sauces can be acid too, that’s why they pair well with equally tart red Italian wines. A shy California Merlot will taste odd with your spaghetti alla Bolognese. Because of acid.
Bad Pairing #4: Alcohol and spicy food
Spicy food is really not meant to be paired with spicy wine. Bold, rich, often hot flavors of Asian cuisine, for example, should be paired with wines that carry some sugar. Sweetness balances spiciness, yet many people still pair big alcoholic red wines with this type of food. Alcohol actually accentuates the hot tones of chili. A light Moscato or an off-dry Riesling will play a better part.
Also, avoid sparkling wine with spicy food, effervescence will just boost the burning sensation in your tongue. Off-dry reds are uncommon, but they exist, as long as they’re low in alcohol, their good options too.
Bad Pairing #5: Oily fish and tannins
Oily fish such as anchovies, herring, salmon, tuna, trout and swordfish react strangely when meeting tannins of red wine. Often described as a metallic flavor, they’re merely awkward together. Remember tannins react with protein and fat pleasantly when we’re talking about beef steak; with oily fish, the contrary results. Instead, go for a low-tannin red wine like Pinot or even better a full-bodied white wine like Chardonnay. Don’t ruin your 2010 Napa Cab with a butter-seared salmon, you won’t enjoy either of them.
Bad Pairing #6: Creamy whites with raw fish
We’ve all heard seafood goes well with white wine, but neither all seafood nor all whites are created equal. Oysters can be great with Chardonnay, but if the oysters are raw, you’re better off with a young, mineral, unoaked style of wine. For your butter-bomb Chardonnay, you might consider Au gratin oysters instead. Full-bodied whites often overpower delicate seafood like raw oysters, sushi or sashimi; for delicate dishes like these, a mineral, austere, almost neutral white wine is best.
In the end, the absolute worst pairing is the one in which you don’t take a chance. Boring pairings, even if they are sound, are just not enough. Every successful food and wine pairing has a Wow! factor, without it, you have in your hands a just-ok pairing; that’s a failure in my book.
The post The Six Worst Food and Wine Pairings appeared first on Wine School of Philadelphia.
Source: https://www.vinology.com/the-worst-food-and-wine-pairings/
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If Wishes Were Horses… Or Dogs (Drei Donà Romagna Recent Releases)
Giovanna Drei Donà (& 1 of 10 dogs)
While Giovanna Drei Donà “hates” technical questions about wine, she is fond of horses; maybe more fond of horses than her children Ida Vittoria and Enrico, the fourth generation who have helped to run the winemaking operations at the picturesque Drei Donà estate now owned by her husband Count Claudio Drei Donà (who focused on its thirty hectares of land and its ‘La Palazza’ farmhouse, constructed around a fifteenth century watchtower, as a passion project after retiring from law in the 1990s).
Drei Donà’s wines are named after their several horses (after visiting during a media tour, I think that their ten or so dogs might be jealous, given their propensity for barking in seemingly coordinated protests), and she readily admits that she recalls the births of the horses “more than the birth of my sons!” Drei Donà’s horses earn their keep, apparently; they are one of the best litmus tests for proper grape ripeness: “when they start to eat the grapes, they’re ready.”
Drei Donà’s enviable “nestled” view
While “nestled” is an overused term bordering on cliche (both in the wine writing biz writ-large, and here on 1WD), if ever a vineyard was nestled, Drei Donà is it. The estate sits only about 150 meters high, located in the ancient hills between Forlì, Castrocaro and Predappio – on the other side of the hills from Montalcino. Its landscape is influenced by both the Adriatic coast and the Apennines mountains. As in ancient Romagnan times, Sangiovese is the focus here (“it’s maybe the oldest vine in the world” Giovanna proclaimed, though I suspect that’s true only in the world of Romagnan wine).
“Romagna is more known for food than for wine,” Giovanna admits, though Drei Donà makes a very good case for altering that global market perception. “This was a sort of peninsula in ancient times,” she notes, “with water running along the rocky soil beneath the clay and sand on which their vines are planted. Back to being nestled – bad weather tends to follow the hills and thus travel around their site, lowering disease pressure and enabling them to utilize organic viticultural practices. The results are wines about as bold – and with personalities nearly as strong – as Giovanna herself…
2016 Drei Donà Tenuta la Palazza “Notturno” Sangiovese (Emilia-Romagna, $19)
Five percent Cabernet Franc is added to this juicy red, perhaps contributing to its spicy-herbal nose. Dark sour cherry fruit abounds, with cassis, orange peel, minerals, and vivaciousness bringing up the rear. Well-rounded, supple, and poised, this is a wine that’s very, very hard not to like.
2013 Drei Donà Tenuta la Palazza “Pruno” Superiore Riserva Sangiovese di Romagna (Emilia-Romagna, $NA)
The wine that put Drei Donà on the map is sleek, deep, concentrated, and modern without losing its traditional “soul.” Spicy red plums, dried cherries, big structure, and maybe even bigger acids, this will reward the patient. If you doubt that prognostication, I give you…
Wooooot!
1992 Drei Donà Tenuta la Palazza Pruno Superiore Riserva Sangiovese di Romagna (Emilia-Romagna, $NA)
Giovanna might be tough, but she’s also generous; she allowed us to raid their cellar and pull out this interesting beauty, which she called their “first proper vintage” from a “difficult year.” The color is stunning – bricked at the edges, but still plenty dark at its core. Earth, leather, cedar, grilled citrus peel, dried cherries, prunes, spicy and stewed plums, cigar… there’s a lot to unpack here. The structure is still potent (with some of the tannins on the greener side), but the finish is long, tasty, and the whole package has just held up more beautifully than most `90s television celebrities.
2013 Drei Donà Tenuta la Palazza “Magnificat” Cabernet Sauvignon (Emilia-Romagna, $NA)
Giovanna’s husband planted a small amount of international varieties, including Riesling, Chardonnay, and this Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark tobacco and herbs mark the entry, followed by even darker baking spices, blackcurrants, and potting soil. In the mouth, red currant fruit takes over, supported by plums, green herbs, and a balance of power and lift. Throughout, the wine is as determined and transparent in its constituent elements as its matriarch is in her personality.
Cheers!
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at If Wishes Were Horses… Or Dogs (Drei Donà Romagna Recent Releases) from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/drei-dona-romagna-recent-releases/
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