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beerandwinereviews2016 · 4 years ago

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Best Beer Brewing Equipment

Even though it is true that there is an endless choice of craft beers that you can enjoy these days, it’s a fact that there is something extremely satisfying when it comes to brewing your own beer. Even though you may not end up with results that are as tasty as the professionals, but that’s not the point. It is the joy of taking on an endeavor that is a part-science experiment, part-art, and part-exercise in patience.

The 10 Best Types of Beer Brewing Equipment

The best part is ending up with a refreshing glass of beer that comes straight from your own brewery at the end of the day. Like most hobbies, beer brewing requires a fair amount of equipment before you can get started and that equipment, or most of it, comes with beer-making starter kits. So, to help you out, we have decided to review some of the best beer brewing equipment today.

Boiling Equipment

Unless you’re using a no-boil beer brewing kit, you’re going to need to boil, and during the 60 to 90- minute boiling process, you’re going to add hops and any flavoring grains to your wort. Boiling your hops will transform them on a molecular level, creating isomerized alpha acids, which are going to add the desired bittering to your brew.

Boiling also kills bacteria and sterilizing your brew before fermentation. This step helps you establish your target gravity and the correct volume of beer. You must remember that proper boiling tools are an essential part of home brewing equipment.

Brew Pots

GasOne 8 Gallon Stainless Steel Home Brew Kettle Pot Pre Drilled 4 PC Set 32 Quart Tri Ply Bottom for Beer Brewing Includes Stainless Steel Lid, Thermometer, Ball Valve Spigot – Home Brewing Supplies

HIGH QUALITY STAINLESS STEEL- Very easy to clean, Long lasting, Safe and durable, Good heat conduction, Sleek look

TRI-PLY - Extremely strong, Fast and even heat distribution, dependable and well-constructed Will last for a very long time

Scale Markings - Keep track of your measurements and brewing process with the scale markings that are read inside the Kettle Pot

Welded Ergonomic Handles - Gas Ones Erganomic Handles ensures a sturdy and safe brewing experience when dealing with high heat

Contents Include: Stockpot, Lid, S/S Thermometer, Spigot, Mini Wrench, O-Ring, and Sealing Tape

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The kettle that is holding your precious wort when it is boiling may seem basic to you, but you’ll be using it every time you’re going to brew, as it’s important to the final taste of your beer. You don’t need professional-grade equipment for this step, and you can choose to boil water in a big pot on your stove, but having a well-made, proper brew kettle will make all the difference in the brewing experience.

Wort Chillers

Northern Brewer – Copperhead Copper Immersion Wort Chiller for Beer Brewing

The copper brother to our customer favorite Silver Serpent, the sleek Copperhead 25-foot copper immersion wort chiller is the fast way to cool your wort to pitching temps!

No need to sanitize. Simply drop your clean chiller into the kettle a few minutes before the end of the boil and it will be ready to go.

Brew with peace of mind like never before. Drop-angle connections provide insurance against contamination. Surprise leaks stay outside your kettle and away from cooling wort.

Standard garden hose connection allows for brewing outside or connects to a laundry sink faucet as your chilling water source.

Comes fully assembled with tubing, barbed fittings, and hose clamps.

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You should cool your brew quickly after boiling it as that prevents any growth of bacteria, and it also doesn’t develop a funky taste due to dimethyl sulfide or cloudy. However, cooling it fast enough with an ice bath is going to be tough, which is why you should use different types of wort chillers to cool your brew.

Propane Burners

Northern Brewer – Dark Star Propane Burner for Beer Brewing (Black)

65,000 BTUs from a 6 Diameter Banjo-Style Burner

3.5 Wind Guard with Lighter Port

Adjustable Regulator to easily control gas flow

Boil 5 gallons in 20 minutes.

Dark Star is no longer a starter burner, packing enough power for quick boils and even heating up to 15 gallon batches.

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The most important consideration you should have when buying a propane burner is the size of the burner. We don’t mean its physical size, but the British thermal units (BTUs), which are meant to measure the amount of heat required to raise one pound of water at maximum density. The BTU rating of your propane burner will tell you how fast the burner will boil the wort.

Hop Filter Screens and Infusers

Brewing 6x14in Hopper Spider Strainer – Stainless Steel 300 Micron Mesh Homebrew Hops Beer & Tea Kettle Brew Filter

FILTER BEER, COFFEE, TEA: We love beer, but what is better than the beverage itself is the satisfaction of creating it; The G. Francis Brewing 6” x 14” Inch Hopper Spider Strainer is designed for kettle brewing systems to contain hops while keeping debris out of pumps, chillers, and finished beer, resulting in a clearer beer and better taste; Suitable for brewing beer, filtering coffee, making compost tea, and putting into a boil pot

EASY TO USE: Two hook handles firmly secure this filter over the edge of your kettle and, during the boil, hops can be poured directly into the spider; For any standard electric brewing system

BUILT TO LAST: 300-micron mesh that will not wrinkle or damage easily; Frame made from firm stainless steel for strength and longevity; Will resist rust, corrosion, heat, and pressure; Enables easier sterilization prior to brewing and easy cleanup

EASY STORAGE: 2 kettle hanging hooks on top end of basket offers stability, user-friendliness, and versatility; Easier than beer cloth hops bags to remove, clean, and sanitize; Care of this hops spider is easy – you can put in the dishwasher as a separate load with no soap, or simply use a garden hose to wash it out; A no-rinse cleaner and sponge after you rinse it off also works

FILTER MORE: Filter has a 14-inch height and 6-inch diameter (35.6cm x 15.2cm); Suitable for hop pellet capacity of approximately 8 ounces (227g)

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You can let your hops, spices, and fruit float freely in the wort, but then they would gunk up the chiller or the carboy. You should use filter screens or infusers to get the flavor into your brew without creating a mess. A simple hand strainer can get the job done, but a more convenient method is using a mesh hop bag, as all you need to do is toss hops into the bag, tie it up, and put it in the kettle.

Brewing Paddles and Spoons

Home Brew Ohio 28″ Spoon & Paddle Set

Food grade plastic

Can tolerate contact with boiling temperatures

Smaller end Fits into Carboy necks

Will not scratch plastic equipment

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The utensils made for stirring mash are generally one to three feet long, and the paddles come with small openings in them to help break up the mash. The spoons provide a sturdy, yet solid surface for stirring, and both of them can be made from stainless steel, wood, heat-resistant plastic, and bamboo. What material you choose is your personal preference, and even though you don’t need a tool that is marketed as a home brewing equipment, you want something long and sturdy for stirring.

Brewing Thermometers

12″ SS Dial Thermometer Homebrewing Brew Kettle Brew Pot

12 long

Stainless clip to clip to brewing kettle

Appropriate brewing range (0-220 degrees F)

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When you’re brewing beer, temperature is everything, as when you cool your wort too slowly, and you’ll need to worry about bacteria. If you miss the moment your wort is about to boil, you can have a mess on your hands. You need to know the right temperature to add the yeast as well. Most homebrewers tend to use candy thermometers or even the odd meat thermometer, but you need to have a dedicated thermometer for brewing to ensure you have an accurate temperature reading.

Fermenting Equipment

To get the alcohol content and carbonation in your beer, it is going to need to go through fermentation, and this process is the most time-consuming step in brewing, even though you don’t need to do most of the work that is involved here. All the heavy lifting during fermentation is done by yeast as it turns sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide. You must have the right home brewing equipment for fermenting, and shouldn’t cut corners here.

Fermentation Containers

Anvil Stainless Steel Bucket Fermenter – 7.5 gallon

304 Stainless Steel

Coned Bottom

Rotating Racking Arm

Includes Ball Valve, Air-Lock, and Stopper

Height - 19.5 to top of lid (Add 6.25 for airlock and stopper)

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You will need to get a container that is appropriate for holding the wort while the yeast turns into beer. You can choose from several options, including a glass carboy, plastic carboy, fermenter bucket, conical fermenter, or an oak barrel.

Temperature Control

Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W

🥇🥇【Convenient Design】Plug and play, easy to use. Support °C/°F display.

🥇🥇【Dual Relay Output】Be able to connect with refrigeration and heating equipment at the same time.

🥇🥇【Dual Display Window】Be able to display measured temperature and set temperature at the same time.

🥇🥇【Buzzer Alarm】High and low temperature alarms are available when the temperature is over or the sensor is with issue.

🥇🥇【Safety】Maximum output load: 1100W(110V). It is with temperature calibration and compressor delay which can protect your refrigeration.

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From pointing a fan at your fermenter to investing in a heater that wraps around the carboy, you can find many ways to adjust the fermenter temperature and keep it consistent. You can either use a thermometer for the job or make use of wraps and pads here.

Tubing

Auto-Siphon Mini with 6 Feet of Tubing and Clamp

Perfect for small batches

Start your siphon with a single pump

Includes tubing and siphon clip

Glass jar not included

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Tubing is necessary, and even though it is not exciting, it gets the liquids from point A to point B. You need to keep the tubing clean and expect to clean it regularly. The most important aspect here is to get the right size and type for the job.

Measuring and Testing Tools

To ensure this, you get the best brew possible and also that you can replicate it, again and again, you will need to measure the ingredients accurately and test the water quality and the wort. For that, you’re going to need the following equipment for the job.

Hydrometers and Test Jars

Chefast Hydrometer and Glass Test Jar for Wine, Beer, Mead and Kombucha – Combo Set of Brewing Hydrometer, Alcohol Test Tube, Cleaning Brush, Cloth and Storage Bag – ABV, Brix and Gravity Tester Kit

THE PERFECT HYDROMETER AND TEST JAR SET: Whether your forte is beer, wine, mead or Kombucha, make sure your alcohol, sugar and gravity measurements are right in the sweet spot with this combo kit. Our user-friendly hydrometer helps you guard against errors that could ruin your product, while our EXTRA THICK & NARROW test jar helps you waste less of your precious homebrew and get the best readings every single time.

EASY, SAFE AND ACCURATE: Measuring specific gravity from 0.99-1.17, brix/balling from 0-35 and potential alcohol by volume from 0%-20%, this essential proofer is easy to read and free of mercury, lead and other hazardous compounds. It’s your environmentally-friendly way to make pinpoint measurements of your home brew. Please Note: Our hydrometer will NOT work with maple syrup, moonshine, or other high-alcohol content home distilling beverages.

SPECIAL EXTRAS INCLUDED: In this tester kit, we’ve also included a few handy homebrew helpers that could really save the day. The cleaning brush will make short work of cleaning your test tube and other brewing equipment; the cloth helps you keep the hydrometer clean; and the canvas carry bag keeps it all together so you’re not running around hunting for a key component.

HELP OUT YOUR HOMEBREWER: Is there someone in your life who loves to brew their own, but you wonder whether they have the quality equipment they need for making accurate measurements? This combo kit comes in a stylish box, and it is a great gift that could be just what they need to brew with the best of them. Plus, the attractive box keeps everything organized and safe while it is on its way to you.

100% SATISFACTION: If you’re not thrilled with this combo set, just send it back to us within 90 days to receive a full refund. On top of that, the hydrometer is warrantied accurate for one year. Pick up a bevy of home brewing essentials you need to succeed in one swoop; order the Chefast Homebrew Helper today!

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These are used for determining the specific gravity of wort during fermentation to track its transformation into beer. That is the reason hydrometers and test jars are an important home brewing equipment. They don’t cost a lot of money but perform the important function of alerting you about the fermentation’s progress. They also help you easily and effectively replicate the process with successive brews.

Our Final Thoughts

We know that beer brewing is not easy, but with the right equipment, you will manage to create the perfect homebrew for yourself. We have identified some of the key equipment that you will need to manage that process here, so make sure that you have them all by your side the next time that you’re thinking about brewing beer at home.

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bbqtek · 7 years ago

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14 INCHES REGULATOR & HOSE ASSEMBLY FOR BOND, BBQTEK GAS GRILL MODELS AT GRILLTOWN

Fits Models : BBQTEK : GSF20JD BOND : GSF20JD , GSF20JDS

BUY NOW

#14 Inches Regulator & Hose Assembly #Regulator & Hose Assembly #Bond GSF20JD BBQ Parts #Grill Parts for Bond GSF20JDS #Bond GSF20JDS Replacement Parts #Regulator & Hose Assembly for Bond #Bond Barbecue Parts

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itsworn · 6 years ago

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Build a 1,000HP Fuel System for Your 2011-2014 Mustang!

It’s crazy to think that Coyote-powered Mustangs have been out for nine years now. We quickly saw in 2010 how well the new four-valve powerplant reacted to the slightest amount of boost. The primary crutch of moving power further up the dyno graph was the stock pulse-width modulated (PWM) fuel pump. Fuel pump voltage boosters provide some additional help with fuel supply, but eventually one will need to swap out the stock pump.

Most fuel pumps on the market aren’t capable of being controlled by the factory PWM system, so a large single- or multi-pump system must be installed somewhere near the 625hp mark, and a return line added. A simple pump upgrade didn’t exist until Deatschwerks released their DW400 pump for 2011-up Coyote-powered Mustangs.

The OE returnless fuel system maintains the targeted pressure by altering the amount of power sent to the pump. The ECU reads the fuel pressure sensor and increases or decreases the voltage and pulses the power signal to maintain the target fuel pressure, meaning there is no need for a fuel regulator or a return line. The DW400 is designed to fit into the stock pump housing and retain full PWM functionality. Two Coyote specific kits (part No. 9-401-1046 for the 2011-14 and part No. 9-403-1047 for 2015-up) provides the proper hardware needed to make the installation very simple.

Since the pump assembly must be fully disassembled for this installation, we opted to start with a brand new 2015-up fuel pump module. This module is a great upgrade for 2011-14 cars, as it converts the fuel pump outlet diameter from 5/16 inch to 3/8 inch. All that’s needed is about 15-inches of fuel line, a 3/8-inch-to-6AN adaptor, and a -6AN hose end. Plus, the 2015-up pump assemblies are only $140.

We added the JMS PowerMAX fuel pump voltage booster to add some additional power handling capability to our system. The PowerMAX installation takes 15 minutes and everything is plug and play. The pump booster has the ability to operate at 18 or 22 volts, and triggers off throttle position offset voltage. Alternately, an optional pressure switch can be added. A jumper harness splices into the fuel pump wiring, and the fuse under the hood is upgraded from 20 to 30 amps.

Fuel pump upgrades are often complimented with a set of upgraded injectors. Deatschwerks injectors are designed for street drivability and all-out power. DW’s injectors are E85 compatible and they have direct-fit versions for Coyotes up to 200 lb/hr. All injectors come with their own flow sheet and are matched by set.

1. Clip the venturi line off the factory pump in order to remove the bottom basket of the fuel pump. The venturi is what’s responsible for pulling fuel from the other side of the saddle-style fuel tanks. The 2015-and-up venturi design is different in that it is simpler.

2. The supply line from the factory pump must be removed to allow the pump to drop out of the basket. Since the DW400 is larger than the factory pump, the retaining clips must be broken out and sanded flat.

3. With the new pump sock pressed onto the end of the DW400 pump, secure it firmly in the old pump’s basket. A new supply line from the pump to the internal fuel filter is provided; secured this with worm gear clamps. Deatschwerks also includes a plug-and-play wiring harness.

4. A new line and some clamps connect the basket’s venturi inlet to the venturi outlet on the pump. Then snap the basket back in place.

5. Deatschwerks has a wide range of fuel injectors for the Coyote powerplant, up to 200 lb/hr. These are a ball-and-seat design in an EV14-style body. You’ll need to use adaptors to accommodate a stock fuel rail height.

6. Use a brass punch and a hammer to unlock the fuel-pump locking ring. The ring itself is larger than the fuel pump opening and takes a bit of work to remove. A push lock fitting on the bottom of the pump housing is what pulls fuel from the other side of the saddle tank.

7. The 2011-14 pump outlet diameter is 5/16 inch, but the hard line under the car is 3/8 inch. Removing some of the fuel line retaining clamps will allow you to drop the hard line down enough to cut off the factory plastic line and install a 3/8-inch push lock line with a hose clamp.

8. A simple 3/8ths fuel line to -6AN adaptor plus a -6AN push-lock hose end makes for a plug-and-play connection to upgrade the flow of the factory line.

9. The JMS PowerMAX voltage booster uses a jumper harness to intercept the TPS offset voltage at the pedal, as well as the signal hitting the fuel pump module in the trunk. The factory fuel pump fuse should be upgraded from 20 to 30 amps.

10. Simple switches on the JMS PowerMAX adjust the ramp, max voltage, and start voltage. The system can provide up to 22 volts, whereas the stock system runs around 13.0 volts.

11. The JMS PowerMAX can be mounted anywhere in the spare tire area due to its compact design.

The post Build a 1,000HP Fuel System for Your 2011-2014 Mustang! appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

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aliciamyer1 · 7 years ago

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How to Build a Flash Cooler for Your Own Home Beer Tap

Have you even wanted to enjoy fresh, cold draft beer in the comfort of your home and save money while you do it? Well, with the small investment of a flash cooler kit which includes a couple of beer faucets and a few valve adapters and you can. Draft beer costs about half as much as cans or bottles. There are kits available that are perfect for custom installations, college activities, a patio, or home bar. You and your friends can enjoy the constant flow of beer with foam head and the perfect temperature thanks your own mini bar refrigerator or stainless steel beer tower cooler and beer on tap.

Using a kit to make a flash cooler for a home beer tap is an ideal alternative to more expensive kegerators or beer refrigerators to keep your beer cold. Amazon carries two kits to use for a flash cooler. One has a tank and the other does not.

They are the BACOENG Standard Tower conversion kit and the Deluxe Door Mount Kegerator conversion kit

The kits are the most economical and simplest way to convert a spare or new refrigerator into a home draft beer kegerator or system.

With the addition of a temperature control unit, even a freezer can be converted to a flash cooler. The conversion kit components are commercial grade and the same quality as those found at a local tavern. They are easy to install. The step-by-step directions are below. Assembly is simple. The conversion kits would make an excellent gift for any do-it-yourself beer lover.

Instructions for a Conversion Kit with a CO2 Tank

You will need the following tools:

Crescent wrench

Drill and ¼ inch bit

1⅛ inch hole saw

Pencil

Phillips and flathead screwdrivers

Pliers

Saw

Tape measure

Mount the faucet and shank on the refrigerator door or side. The position of the tap will depend on the measurement of the drip tray. Place the drip tray on the surface where it will be mounted and draw around it.

The faucet is to be installed 12 inches above keyhole mount or removable drip trays. That measurement is from the tray, not its backing. If shank mount trays are used, the faucet will be installed through the shank hole(s).

To cut a hole for the faucet and shank, hold the drill, with the hole saw attached, parallel to the ground so that the shank hole is straight.

Drill from the outside, but do not cut through the liner. Finish drilling from the inside out. Mount the drip tray to the area that was drawn with a pencil.

Assemble the faucet and shank. The knob twists counterclockwise to tighten and clockwise to loosen. Make sure to secure the faucet to avoid leaks tightly.

Cut a door spacer ⅛ to a ¼ inch shorter than the width of the door or side. Place the faucet and shank attachment through the hole having the spacer inside and tighten the shank nut. Do not over tighten it.

Attach the beer line to the shank. There is a part near the point of attachment that must be removed with pliers after squeezing finger tight. Do not shorten the length of the beer line. The proper restriction from the faucet to the keg is five feet.

The regulator and CO2 cylinder are typically placed in the corner of the refrigerator. It is possible to locate them outside the fridge by drilling a hole for the gas line.

Either location requires the cylinder to be in an upright position secured in place by a chain. Attach the regulator to the CO2 bottle.

Turn it to the off position and attach the gas hose to the regulator and keg coupler. To set the CO2 pressure, open the cylinder valve completely. Set the pressure clockwise and turn the regulator valve to the ‘on’ position.

There is a ramp on the bottom of the coupler. Align the ramp with the lugs on the keg and rotate clockwise while the coupler is in the ‘off’ position. Pull out the plastic handle, depress, and release the handle to the ‘lock’ position.

Safety Precautions

Keg

There is a limit of 60 pounds per square inch (psi) of pressure. Nearly all domestic draft beers need a pressure between 12 and 14 psi to be dispensed. The majority of stout beers require a pounds per square inch between 30 and 40.

Always use a gas pressure regulator and keg coupler that has a pressure release valve (PRV). If the pressure release valve fails, the PRV of the keg coupler will release pressure and prevent CO2 from getting into the keg.

The valve of a keg should never be removed. Tools for the installation and removal of keg valves are only available to breweries. For liability reasons, only trained professionals should install and maintain the valves. Improper installation could result in injury.

CO2 Tank

The CO2 tank should always be connected to the regulator. Never connect it directly to the keg. As stated above, the pressure per square inch of the keg has a maximum of 60. The psi of a CO2 cylinder is between 800 and 1000.

A CO2 cylinder should never be dropped or thrown. Always secure it in an upright position. When the regulator is mounted, the gas cylinder can be unstable. A cylinder that fails can cause the regulator to break off.

The cylinder valve can break off and release pressurized gas if the cylinder is dropped. If there is a leak in the CO2 tank, the area needs to be ventilated. High levels of carbon dioxide cause headaches and difficulty breathing. Evacuate the room immediately.

Beer Line Cleaners

The cleaning chemical (CFP-1), used to clean beer lines becomes a clear, odorless liquid that contains sodium carbonate when mixed with water. It is essential to use the manual cleaning bottle with the chemical used to clean the beer line.

It creates the necessary turbulent flow that releases yeast, bacteria, and stone build-up in the beer lines. Safety glasses and rubber gloves should be worn to protect the eyes and skin. CFP-1 is not caustic, but it can irritate skin and eyes. Use soap and water to wash hands after using the chemical.

Before re-tapping the keg, thoroughly flush the faucet, coupler, and beer line to remove the chemical and ensure the freshest tasting beer. Call poison control or a physician if the product is swallowed. Dilute the chemical by drinking large quantities of water if ingested.

Source: http://www.thebrewerscircle.com/how-to-build-a-flash-cooler-for-your-own-home-beer-tap/

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patricktrimble · 7 years ago

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How to Build a Flash Cooler for Your Own Home Beer Tap

They are the BACOENG Standard Tower conversion kit and the Deluxe Door Mount Kegerator conversion kit

The kits are the most economical and simplest way to convert a spare or new refrigerator into a home draft beer kegerator or system.

Instructions for a Conversion Kit with a CO2 Tank

You will need the following tools:

Crescent wrench

Drill and ¼ inch bit

1⅛ inch hole saw

Pencil

Phillips and flathead screwdrivers

Pliers

Saw

Tape measure

To cut a hole for the faucet and shank, hold the drill, with the hole saw attached, parallel to the ground so that the shank hole is straight.

Drill from the outside, but do not cut through the liner. Finish drilling from the inside out. Mount the drip tray to the area that was drawn with a pencil.

Assemble the faucet and shank. The knob twists counterclockwise to tighten and clockwise to loosen. Make sure to secure the faucet to avoid leaks tightly.

The regulator and CO2 cylinder are typically placed in the corner of the refrigerator. It is possible to locate them outside the fridge by drilling a hole for the gas line.

Either location requires the cylinder to be in an upright position secured in place by a chain. Attach the regulator to the CO2 bottle.

Safety Precautions

Keg

CO2 Tank

Beer Line Cleaners

Source: http://www.thebrewerscircle.com/how-to-build-a-flash-cooler-for-your-own-home-beer-tap/

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grillpartsgalleryonline-blog · 7 years ago

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REGULATOR & HOSE (T-TYPE) FOR SUNFIRE SF892LP, GRILLPRO 80016 26-INCH DUAL QCC1, CHAR-BROIL, FLAME KING, 21ST CENTURY R46 L.P, BRINKMANN AND LIFE@HOME GL450SKP, GPC2618J, GPC2619J, GSC2318J , GSC2818J GAS GRILL MODELS

Fits Surefire Models: SF278 , SF278LP , SF34LP , SF892LP Fits Uniflame : GBC1001W-C, GBC1001WC-C, GBC1025W, GBC1030W, GBC1030W-C, GBC1030WRS, GBC1030WRS-C, GBC1128W, GBC1134W, GBC1134WBL, GBC1134WRS, GBC1134WRS-C, GBC1134WS-C, GBC621C , GBC621CR-C , GBC720W , GBC730W , GBC730W-C , GBC750W , GBC750W-C , GBC772W , GBC772W-C , GBC820W , GBC820W-C , GBC820WNC-C , GBC831WB , GBC831WB-C , GBC850W , GBC850W-C , GBC981W , GBC981W-C , GBC981WBL , GBC981WBU , NSG3902B , NSG3902D

55-15-190 - 55-08-177 - 55-15-020 - 55-07-403 Regulator and Hose Assembly 55-07-529 - 58-01-084 - 55-08-128 - 55-14-359 - 55-10-244, 55-07-469 Regulator and Hose Assembly

For More Details

#Propane Regulator and Hose Assembly #Surefire SF34LP BBQ Parts #Surefire SF278LP Replacement Parts #Replacement Parts for Surefire SF892LP

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itsworn · 6 years ago

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1968 Camaro with Pro Street Power and Pro Touring Driveability

When you build high-performance cars for a living, the majority of your time is focused on completing the projects for your customers. Many times, it’s rare to get enough free time on the clock to take on a build of your own. Peter Newell’s roots lie in hard-core Pro Street cars that can be driven … not just locally to your average cruise night, but cross-country where performance demands require them to be completely functional to endure a beating. As owner of Competition Specialties in Walpole, Massachusetts, he lives and breathes these cars as his personal church.

Starting back with his first build, an ’86 Trans Am was cut up to create a 6-71 blown small-block car running mile-wide rear rubber. The car set the local scene on fire since it was driven year round in New England … without a hood—even through snowstorms! Over 20 years ago it was a “Long Hauler” on the Hot Rod Power Tour.

This brings us to Project Leftover. As time went on, many people shrugged off Pro Street cars as a passing fancy, but dedicated builders of these cars kept them very much alive. Newell took on a derelict roller project in 2011 and deemed it Leftover. The concept was to take the shell to completion utilizing the many scraps in the shop for a new daily driver.

In its first iteration, the car was finished with a stroked small-block Chevy and coated in blue suede paint. As promised, it took a daily beating 12 months a year through all types of weather, enduring literally tens of thousands of miles. Wanting to inject more style, the car was torn down to create Leftover 2.0, bathed in blue candy gloss with a myriad of custom body modifications and an injection of carbon fiber. Again on the road and thousands of miles later the revisions continued to Leftover 3.0, adding a fresh twin-turbo mill to the equation to up the ante on the street.

In its latest form, conceived over the past 12 months, the car has evolved to an entirely new level. Raising the bar and incorporating a myriad of high-performance parts from many of our industry leaders, Peter has already laid down over 10,000 miles since the project update was completed. The base for any true Pro Street build relies on the ability to put the power to the street.

To start, DMC Racing in Halifax, Massachusetts, back-halfed the car, suspending a narrowed Dana 60 rear packed with 4.11 gears spinning 35-spline Strange Engineering axles with their adjustable four-link and Panhard bar and QA1 Quad Adjust remote reservoir coilover shocks. For excellent handling, a Fatman Fabrications front subframe incorporates their Sportalign IFS system with exclusive tuning capabilities. To set the stance even deeper, Peter channeled the subframe 1 inch into the body.

If you’re pushing big horsepower numbers you’d better be able to stop. A Wilwood Engineering dual master pushes juice through steel lines to a forged Superlite 6R big-brake package, 14-inch drilled and slotted rotors with six-piston calipers up front with Dynalite 12.88-inch drilled and slotted rotors and four-piston calipers out back. Connecting it to the street are custom 18-inch front and 20-inch rear Boze Vortex three-piece concave wheels wearing Hankooks up front and Mickey Thompson Sportsman S/R radials out back.

When it came time to build a mill that could take an all-out beating and maintain dependability, Peter contacted C3 Automotive Machine in Foxboro, Massachusetts, to build the short-block. A Chevrolet Performance 350ci Bow Tie Sportsman block with four-bolt nodular mains was packed with a GM forged steel crank linked to H-beam rods capped with Ross Racing forged aluminum slugs getting a hefty bump from a Nelson Racing stick. Peter assembled the rest with ample power coming from Dart Pro 1 aluminum heads. An Edelbrock Victor Jr intake cradles a Quick Fuel Technology Q-Series 850-cfm Blow-Thru carb linked to twin Nelson Racing 61mm mirror-image turbos generating enough power to pin you to the back of the seat. The Vintage Air Front Runner drive system adds plenty of performance accented by custom inner fender panels and billet hood hinges from Eddie Motorsports and DMC Racing’s exclusive hideaway turbo plumbing. The goods move through a PerformaBuilt Level 3 Invincible 4L60E trans to a QA1 REV Series carbon-fiber driveshaft, making it easy to cruise comfortably at triple-digit speeds.

Study Leftover and you’ll see plenty of subtle changes. Peter turned up the heat starting with a custom-fabricated steel chin spoiler, welded and filled front fenders, and filled antenna mount as well as welded and smoothed driprails. He continued on with 2-inch dropped steel rocker panels with matching sections on the fender and quarter-panel bottoms, adding a custom relief to the quarter-panels ahead of the rear wheels and wrapped it up by pie-cutting the rear of the quarters to gracefully transition the panels into the roll pan and carbon-fiber diffuser.

Finally, the quarter seams were welded and smoothed with final accents including Eddie Motorsports RS grille, taillights, and door handles, as well as a carbon-fiber trunk lid by Anvil. He then set the gaps, made it razor sharp, and laid down a deep coating of House of Kolor Apple Red accented by custom stripes.

Inside, DMC Racing completed the tinwork along with the eight-point chromoly cage. The factory dash features a custom insert housing a Racepak IQ3 to monitor the vitals. A Billet Specialties wheel carves the course while shifts fly through a Lokar unit. Cool breezes are by Vintage Air.

All-new interior panels were designed and crafted at JK Automotive Designs and covered in a combination of black leather and suede by Cutting Edge Designs, both of Stoneham, Massachusetts. Cutting Edge then upholstered the Procar seats in black leather while also covering the dash in suede, accented by charcoal German square weave carpet. Clayton Machine Works door handles and window cranks add the final touch.

In its current form, the car is a fusion of Pro Street and Pro Touring to create a type of Pro Outlaw style where a wide-tire car can effectively throw down blistering performance and still handle well on the long haul. Currently, Leftover has logged over 50,000 miles in all types of weather conditions year-round, and shows no signs of slowing down! CHP

Tech Check Owner: Peter Newell, Walpole, Massachusetts Vehicle: 1968 Camaro Engine Type: Chevy small-block Displacement: 350 ci Compression Ratio: 8.7:1 Bore: 4.000 inches Stroke: 3.480 inches Cylinder Heads: Dart Pro 1, aluminum Rotating Assembly: GM forged steel crank, H-beam rods, Ross Racing forged aluminum pistons Valvetrain: Comp Cams Camshaft: Nelson Racing custom-grind solid roller Induction: Edelbrock Victor Jr intake, Quick Fuel Technology Q-Series 850-cfm Blow-Thru Annular Booster carb, twin Nelson Racing 61mm mirror-image turbos with hidden plumbing by DMC Racing Ignition: MSD Exhaust: Stainless Works headers, custom 3-inch steel exhaust by Competition Specialties, Borla mufflers Ancillaries: Holley 160-gph fuel pump, Holley fuel filter, Earl’s hoses and fittings, Holley VR-Series fuel pressure regulator, Vintage Air Front Runner accessory drive Output: 800 hp at 9 psi boost on pump gas Drivetrain Transmission: PerformaBuilt Level 3 Invincible 4L60E Rear Axle: Dana 60, 4.11:1 gears, Strange Engineering 35-spline axles Chassis Steering: Rack-and-pinion Front Suspension: Fatman Fabrications front subframe and Sportalign IFS with 2-inch dropped spindles, QA1 Quad Adjust coilover shocks with remote reservoirs Rear Suspension: DMC Racing back-half, custom four-link, and Panhard bar; QA1 Quad Adjust coilover shocks with remote reservoirs Brakes: Wilwood Engineering Superlite 6R 14-inch drilled and slotted rotors with six-piston calipers, front; Wilwood Engineering 12.88-inch drilled and slotted rotors with Dynalite Pro four-piston calipers, rear Wheels & Tires Wheels: Boze Vortex (three-piece concave custom) 18×8 front, 20×15 rear Tires: Hankook Ventus V12 evo2 front, Mickey Thompson Sportsman S/R rear Interior Seats: Procar buckets custom covered by Cutting Edge Designs Upholstery: Black leather, custom by Cutting Edge Designs and JK Automotive Designs Instrumentation: Racepak IQ3 Steering: Billet Specialties Camber 14-inch wheel Carpet: Charcoal German square weave Shifter: Lokar Exterior Paint: House of Kolor Apple Red Paint By: Competition Specialties Hood: Stock cowl-induction, steel Grille: Eddie Motorsports RS, black billet

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itsworn · 7 years ago

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Hard Core Resto Tech: Detailing a 428 Cobra Jet Engine Part 1

The Cobra Jet engine that was introduced in April 1968 is easily one of the most well-known engines of the late 1960s and early 1970s from the muscle car era. It is also one of the hardest to detail because, unlike a Boss or a Hi-Po engine, it was used in so many different applications and over several years. Not only in Mustangs, but also Cougars, Torinos, and Montegos. Different options could be added to the drivetrain like a manual or automatic transmission, with or without air conditioning, and with optional axle ratios. All of this affects how an engine is put together and detailed. The engine itself was officially rated at 335 hp and 418 lb-ft of torque, but the reality is the engine was producing around 411 hp. Because of how versatile the 428 engine was, it is considered one of the best powerplants Ford ever produced—so much so that eventually the Cobra Jet name was brought back and reintroduced in 2008 for the 40th anniversary of the release of the first Cobra Jet Mustang.

In March 1994, Mustang Monthly published an article by Bob Perkins that was one of the most detailed articles written on the subject. That article, like so many others of that time, was mostly with black-and-white photos. So here we will update that, plus add some more in-depth detailing items. Although not every single option and feature can be shown in this article, this guide should serve as a good basis for some of the common detailing tips and tricks.

1. The first step in detailing a 428 Cobra Jet engine is to make sure you actually have one, versus a 390 or standard 428 block. It is difficult to decode one when installed in a car, but when it is out there are a few things to look for. One of the easier things to look for is the “C” that is sand-cast in the back of the block, as shown in the pictures here. This is typical for a Cobra Jet block. If you see an “A” marked in the back of the block, most likely this is a standard 428 engine that was used in Thunderbirds, Mercurys, and LTDs. If there is no marking at all it is likely to be a 360, 390, or 410 block. This can be summarized as follows:

• “A” scratch on rear bulkhead with standard crank saddle webbing: August 1965-1966

• “A” scratch on rear bulkhead with reinforced crank saddle webbing: March 1967-June 1967

• “C” scratch on rear bulkhead with reinforced crank saddle webbing: June 1967-March 1970

1a. Of course another way to determine the correct block is the date code. This is cast into the block and visible right next to the oil filter adapter on the bottom of the engine block next to the oil pan, as shown here. Date code should be a few months prior to the build date of the car at the most.

1b. Nearly all FE blocks have a 352 that is cast in the front of the block. This first started with the 352ci engine in 1958 but was continued with the FE engine throughout its service life, including the Cobra Jet.

2. Cobra Jet engines used a special cast-iron head that can be identified with the engineering numbers C8OE-6090-N on the outside as shown here, and with inlet ports for the Thermactor system at each cylinder. These heads were used on all 1968 to 1970 Cobra Jet production cars that were built and always painted blue with the engine.

3. The VIN is typically stamped on the back of the engine block or on the back of the cylinder head. Before January 1968 Ford stamped these for warranty purposes and then only on high-performance engines. After January 1968 it was stamped on almost all blocks or heads as part of Department of Transportation regulations against automobile theft.

3a. The engine assembly date can be found typically stamped on one of the four flat spots near the cylinders with the most common being above the oil filter adapter. This will be dated after the casting date in a year, month, day, assembler last name initial format.

4. Exhaust manifolds were a cast-iron design and unique to the Cobra Jet engines. There are three different versions used between 1968 and 1970. The main difference in the manifolds during these years is in the passenger-side manifold. Version 1 does not have an additional reinforcement ridge at the front exhaust ports. Version 2 adds the additional reinforcement. Version 3 removes the need for an exhaust spacer. Manifolds should not have any blue overspray, as they were not on the engine when it was painted.

No reinforcement Version 1: C8OZ-9430-A. Note the lack of reinforcements compared to the next version. Used from 1968½ to early 1969 model year.

With reinforcement Version 2: C8OZ-9430-C. Note the addition of reinforcements compared to the previous version. Used from early 1969 model year to December 1969.

Version 3: C9OZ-9430-C. Removes the need for the exhaust spacer by machining the end to accommodate the H-pipe directly. Used from December 1969.

4a. Exhaust manifold bolts used were a special design that used ramp lock washers and flat washers shown here with the flat washers being placed against the manifolds. Correct finish of this hardware shown here.

5. A choke stove system was originally designed as part of the passenger-side exhaust manifold. This worked by running metal lines from the exhaust manifold via the choke stove to the carburetor to help with cold start. The exhaust manifold had a mesh filter element and an end cap fitting running to the line. These were used until 1970 when a manual choke was then used and eliminated this automatic choke. Note the original asbestos wrap that was used on the warm air tube.

5a. There was a design change in April 1969 that then added an additional input from the air cleaner to the choke stove system via an inline T that connected with an orange hose and the modifications you see here.

6. The water pumps used on the Cobra Jet engines are typically seen with two different casting numbers. C8AE-8505-H is normally seen on 1968 models. C9AE-8505-A is seen on 1969 and 1970 models. The difference being a larger internal bearing being used on the C9AE version. Both versions have date codes that are easily seen.

7. The paper engine ID tag was normally placed on the passenger front head on the flat area behind the smog pump. This tag identifies the engine and transmission combination that was pulled as a finished assembly to match the buildsheet. This tag would have a “D” and not an “L” because the 390, 427, and 428 engines were assembled at the Dearborn Engine Plant.

8. The metal engine ID tag was commonly placed under the coil bracket on the Cobra Jet engines. These tags were used by Ford from January 1964 to February 1973 on all its engines to identify them for production. Reading the numbers from top left to lower right would decode as 428 for the cubic-inch displacement of the engine; 70 would be the model year (not calendar year); the next digit is the revision level (in this instance 7); the next series of number/letters is the production date of the engine (0 A = January 1970); and the last set of numbers is the engine code that would match the buildsheet.

9. Original assembly line freeze plugs that were used are easily identified by the diamond logo in the center, although this logo is sometimes stamped on the back of the freeze plug and not visible when installed. These were serviced under part number C8AZ-6026-B and typically have a galvanized finish.

10. The intake manifold is cast iron and would be painted blue with the engine. The most common engineering number is a C8OE-9425-C that would be cast in behind the carburetor mounting area. At the very back of the intake is the date code that would be in a year, month, day format. This date needs to precede the build date of the car.

Version 1

Version 2

Version 3 11. There were two basic versions of valve covers used on the Cobra Jet engines, plus one possible variant. Version 1 was the chrome valve covers that were used on 1968 and 1969 engines until February 14, 1969. These valve covers typically have a date stamp on them starting with the 1969 model year and are visible next to the oil breather area as seen above. Dates were in a month, day, shift format and did not include the year. After February 14, 1969, a finned aluminum valve cover was used with the engineering number C9ZE-6583-A or C9ZE-6583-C, which is stamped inside. The third version is an aluminum valve cover that has “428 Cobra Jet” stamped on the outside and was sold by Ford Enginesports as an accessory item. It has the engineering number C9ZE-6583-B stamped inside. It is possible that in some cases this valve cover was installed from the factory.

12. The chrome-style valve covers used staples to hold on the valve cover gaskets. There was one staple used per tab—5 per valve cover.

13. An inspector OK stamp that was typically applied after engine hot testing to the driver-side front valve cover as seen here.

14. Original valve cover gaskets themselves would be a cork style with a silver-colored sealer on them that is visible on the areas where it sticks out.

15. Original spark plug wires had a protective sleeve that was meant to prevent any burns as the wires wrapped over the Thermactor tubes. The end of the spark plug wires were orange and had AUTOLITE molded in and a unique re-enforced ring at the end of each boot. Each wire was date-coded according to the calendar year (68, 69, or 70) and the quarter (Q1 to Q4), and numbered for its respective position from 1 to 8.

15a. Original spark plug wire boots at the distributor cap are all not exactly the same, as some are molded differently to give extra clearance.

16. The correct original distributor cap has AUTOLITE cast into the top of the cap as shown here and is a black molded piece.

17. An original style distributor hold down (B8A-12270-A) is shown here with the correct installed position (tangs up) and a phosphate and oil finish held in place by a zinc hold-down bolt and lock washer.

18. The correct style ignition coil bracket assembly. Note the position of the notch that fits against the intake manifold and the correct finish.

19. The original Autolite yellow top ignition coils used had an ink stamp that may or may not be visible when installed on the engine. The ink stamp would include a date code that is in a year, month, week, shift format as shown here.

Also, the correct orientation of the ignition coil is shown here. Here you can see the terminals are turned toward the driver-side valve cover.

Transmission 1968 1969 1970 Manual C8OF-12127-D C8OF-12127-H DOZF-12127-C Automatic C7OF-12127-F C8OF-12127-J DOZF-12127-G

20. The distributors that were commonly used in the Cobra Jets are listed here with the engineering numbers that would be stamped in them. All of them would be date-coded in a year, month, day sequence and are stamped in such a way that they are only visible from the back of the distributor when installed. All distributors are single-point design with the exception being the 1970 manual transmission, which is a dual-point distributor. Note the machined surfaces, some of which are visible when installed on the engine. The distributor cap hold-down clips would be a phosphate finish and not painted.

Come back next month for Part 2, with Part 3 of How to Detail a 428 Cobra Jet following the month after that!

Sources

Anghel Restorations

(602) 628-2522

AnghelRestorations.com

Facebook: www.facebook.com/anghelrestorations Instagram: www.instagram.com/anghelrestorations E-mail: [email protected]

Perkins Restoration

920-696-3788

PerkinsRestoration.com

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itsworn · 7 years ago

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Robert Foley’s 426 Max Wedge–Powered 1963 Polara Overheats. We’re Gonna Fix It

The Combo

Law enforcement officer by day, hot rodder by night—Robert Foley always wanted to get his hands on an early Mopar Max Wedge car.

Robert Foley always wanted to put together an early big-block Mopar muscle car. “I liked the history and tradition, how these awesome cars put Chrysler into the forefront! I lucked out and found a 1963 Dodge Polara with the awesome 426 Max Wedge already in it!” The clone-conversion is about as close as an average hot rodder can get to the real McCoy outside of a museum. Its frame-off rebuild included a real 13.5:1 426 Max Wedge motor, complete with a solid-lifter cam, a cross-ram fed by Edelbrock AVS carbs, and factory cast-iron headers. The power is transferred back through a 3,000-rpm stall-speed converter, a pushbutton 727 TorqueFlite, and a 3.91:1-geared Moser 8¾-inch Sure-Grip.

Originally a 318-powered dozer, the Polara underwent a rotisserie restoration, complete with an authentic 426W motor.

The Problem

Even back in the day, these raggedy-edge cars weren’t known as stellar coolers. Today’s crappy gas sure doesn’t help things. “I couldn’t drive it more than 2 to 3 miles before the temperature would get up to 220 degrees,” Foley complained. “At that point, I’d just shut it off. It never stabilized or leveled off, wouldn’t improve at high speed, and didn’t care what the outside temperature was.”

The stock cooling system couldn’t cool the 13.5:1 426. Note how the radiator, shroud, fan, and engine mount are offset to the passenger side.

The Diagnosis

Rollings’ Automotive dropped in a new Griffin “Combo Package”: a high-tech aluminum radiator with twin electric fans in a custom shroud.

Fortunately, Rollings Automotive—one of our go-to SoCal rescue facilities—is within spitting distance of Foley’s Riverside, California, residence. Norm Rollings took only a few minutes to science the problem out. There were no obvious mechanical defects: The thermostat was opening, the pressure cap was the system’s high point, there were no bubbles in the coolant, and timing adjustments made little difference. Time to bring out the big guns: an aluminum radiator, electric fans, and a high-flow water pump. The electric fans’ electrical demands called for a higher-output alternator and wiring upgrades. Added into the mix was Foley’s wish to preserve (to the extent possible) the Polara’s period looks. We spec’d the 440Source.com for a water pump, Griffin Thermal Products for the radiator and fans, Powermaster for a high-output alternator, and a posse of local and aftermarket manufacturers to deal with the inevitable chassis integration and detailing requirements.

It’s not easy keeping a 13.5:1 all-cast-iron 426 Max Wedge cool on the street. The three big-ticket cooling rescue items include a Griffin aluminum radiator/shroud/electric fan package, a 440Source.com high-flow aluminum water pump with cast-iron impeller, and a modern 95-amp Powermaster one-wire alternator. But there’s lots of little extras that make for a sano upgrade, including dipping into Rollings’ secret stash of aircraft fasteners. If there’s no surplus store in your area, most of the “trick” hardware can be purchased from outfits like Aircraft Spruce or ARP.

A] Water pump (Photos 01–03)

B] Radiator, electric fans (Photos 04–10, 13–14, 25–26)

C] Coolant recovery tank (Photos 11–12)

D] One-wire alternator (Photos 15–18)

E] Disconnect external regulator (Photo 19)

F] Fan controller and fan relays (Photos 20–21, 23)

G] Aircraft hardware (Photos 21–22)

H] Starter relay (photo 24)

I] Shorter oil filter (Photo 21)

The Fix: Water Pump

Big-block Chryslers use a water pump that bolts to a separate housing that in turn bolts to the engine block. The pump’s impeller-blade shape plus the clearance of the pump/impeller assembly to the housing’s interior cavity is an important factor in establishing the pump’s overall efficiency. Foley had a standard cast-iron housing and the usual parts-store cast-iron pump with sloppy clearances; the cheapie sheetmetal impeller looked like it was cannibalized from a child’s toy. They were trash-canned and replaced by 440Source.com’s high-flow aluminum pump and housing kit. The pump features a superior curved-vane cast-iron impeller, and the close-tolerance interior housing clearances are precisely controlled to the point that 440Source.com supplies its own pump-to-housing gasket (yes, paper gasket thickness can vary slightly).

01] The 440Source.com’s high-flow aluminum pump with its matching tight-tolerance aluminum housing tightens up the impeller-to-housing clearances for better flow.

02] Note the 440Source.com’s curved-vane, cast impeller, as well as a thick shoulder that extends further into the housing (right); the stocker (left) has a flimsy sheetmetal impeller—ouch!

03] 440 Source’s “early” pump has the right driver-side inlet and enough hot-side pipe-thread holes to allow mounting (from left) the stock temp sender, an Auto Meter temp gauge sender, and the electric fan control unit thermal probe without tee-fittings. Buttonhead pump-to-housing screws clear large billet pulleys. The 440Source.com’s billet water outlet hides a Rollings-gutted thermostat—this is Southern California!

The Fix: Radiator and Fans

To replace Foley’s copper/brass three-row radiator and lame four-blade mechanical fan, we chose Griffin’s Exact Fit aluminum two-core radiator that’s designed to drop in place of most original old-school radiators. In this case, the exact year and model weren’t in the catalog, but a close analog is listed for other 1962–1965 big-block Mopar muscle cars; just be sure to check exact fitment and clearances. Foley’s existing, nearly new upper and lower radiator hoses bolted right up.

04] Radiator tech has come a long way since the 1960s. Griffin’s Direct Fit Combo kit package for most early Mopar big-block/auto-trans cars (PN CU-70024) includes its high-tech aluminum radiator plus a custom aluminum shroud loaded with twin SPAL 10-inch electric fans. The large tube, high-density core still uses a sheetmetal tank for a pseudo-classic appearance. The numbered callouts in this photo indicate the “real-world” location of the parts shown in photos 00–00 that follow within this “Radiator and Fans” section.

05] Like many current OE setups, shroud-relief flaps open at speed to relieve detrimental pressure buildup.

06] A good idea for any aluminum radiator, Rollings added an anti-corrosion sacrificial anode in place of the conventional drain cock.

07] Not inverted flare or 37-degree AN: Rare ¼ pipe-thread-to-SAE 45-degree male cone nipples connect the stock ⁵⁄₁₆-inch auto-trans hardlines to the radiator.

08] Griffin uses pipe thread for the overflow nipple below the pressure cap, allowing Rollins to bend up a ¼-inch stainless-steel hardline with a 37-degree AN coupling nut and flare.

09] At the other end, the tubing connects to Phenix lightweight race hose using a Phenix flareless compression fitting, eliminating the need for an extra union.

10] Always check hood clearance using modeling clay or heavy grease. Rollings had to lower the radiator ½ inch, accomplished by drilling new holes in its integral mounting plate ½-inch higher to mate with the core support’s factory holes and weld nuts (arrow).

A big Moroso reservoir tank reported for duty as a coolant recovery unit.

11] The Phenix race hose runs from the overflow tube (see photo 09, above) to the bottom of this big 2-quart Moroso aluminum reservoir tank. It’s used here as a full sealed coolant recovery system (CRS). Rollings says the tank in most retrofit CRS kits is too small. “Judge for yourself. Look how large today’s overflow tanks are on new cars.”

12] The Moroso tank mounts to existing factory weld-nuts on the driver-side fender via a fabricated aluminum bracket.

So what’s so special about Griffin’s aluminum wonder? Dimensionally, the core height and width is about the same as the old unit, but aluminum’s higher tensile strength allows the tubes to be significantly larger, resulting in more surface area per tube—and surface area is where most heat exchange goes down. Griffin has a higher tube density/inch, further improving heat dissipation when used with electric fans and a properly designed shroud.

13] Griffin’s 18.00 x 21.88-inch core area is about the same as the old radiator, but there’s more to radiator efficiency than gross dimensions. Theoretically, a copper/brass radiator is a slightly more efficient heat exchanger than aluminum, but its tensile strength is lower. Being stronger, aluminum supports higher pressures and larger-diameter, thinner-wall radiator tubes. The Griffin used on the Polara has 1.25-inch tubes, but despite its larger tubes, the Griffin’s tube density comes in at 54 tubes/inch.

14] By contrast, the stocker it replaced has only 0.375-inch tubes and 39 tubes/inch. This makes the Griffin’s tube density about 38-percent higher than the stocker. Griffin also has 16 fins/inch, versus this old unit’s 13 fins/inch. Collectively, larger tubes with greater surface area plus higher density greatly increase heat dissipation.

Then there’s the issue of multirow (multicore) stacking: On an old three- or four-row radiator, the rear cores are less efficient because they see air that’s already been heated by the forward core(s). A similarly sized two-core aluminum radiator with larger tubes nearly always outperforms a three- or four-core copper/brass setup. And electric fans perform best on a radiator with fewer cores. Unlike a beltdriven fan whose speed is tied to engine rpm, electric fans run at a constant speed independent of engine rpm, making them today’s choice for superior low-rpm cooling on most hot rods.

We ordered the Griffin’ radiator as part of a complete “Combo Package,” which also includes a custom shroud, twin SPAL electric fans, and relays. But those current-hungry fans and Foley’s existing electric fuel pump gotta get fed.

The Fix: Alternator and Wiring

15] Out with the weak stock alternator. A Powermaster high-output, one-wire unit supplies the new Griffin-supplied electric fans’ current demands.

Old muscle cars were underwired even stock, and first-gen alternators didn’t put out enough current at idle. (Ever experience dim headlights when idling with the windshield wipers on?) As alternators evolved, they became more efficient, developing higher peak output in a similar-size case, putting out more amps at idle, and ramping up to full power quicker. At speed, early Chrysler alternators typically put out at most 50 amps. We were able to more than double that with a bolt-in, Chrysler-style Powermaster one-wire unit. They’re officially rated at 95 amps, but the dyno-test sheet in the box showed our unit actually made 75 amps at idle, 80 at cruise, and 112 on the top end.

16] Fan appreciation day: Supplying current to the grateful, current-hungry, electric fans is a Powermaster one-wire squareback alternator (right) that’s at least twice as powerful as the first-gen roundback it replaced (left). The new unit’s case is based on the mid-1960s-and-later Chrysler configuration, but still looks distinctively Mopar. It physically bolted up with no reclocking needed.

17] Powermaster’s true one-wire unit is internally regulated and self-exciting. Don’t connect any of the old external wires to the Field terminals (A). Bolt the single charge wire to the B+ stud (B). The alternator usually self-grounds through its mounting bracket, but for insurance Rollings ran an external ground wire from the ground terminal (C) to an exhaust manifold bolt.

Powermaster’s internally regulated design is a cinch to install. It uses just one main charge wire. Rollings did upsize from a 12-gauge to a Powermaster 8-gauge charging wire, protected from chafing (as were all the other newly run wiring) by split nylon sleeving. Foley was already running a AWG 00 battery cable from his trunk-mounted battery to the starter.

18] Upgrade the charge wire from the typical 12-gauge stocker to 8-gauge (or larger, depending on the length of the run); they’re available from Powermaster. Here the upgrade runs to the starter relay and on to the starter. Still running a stock ammeter? Hook the black wire to the B+ stud. Run an auxiliary ground as desired. (Photo: Ryan Lugo)

19] The old separate voltage regulator was left sitting on the firewall for looks, but it’s not hooked up to anything.

To reduce potential duty-cycle strain under California 100-degree-plus summers, Rollings elected to use 75-amp Bosch fan control relays in place of the supplied 30-amp units. A Hayden adjustable fan controller allowed dialing in the fan actuation temperature as measured by a thermal probe that safely screws into a water pump pipe-thread fitting.

20] Rollings fail-safed the car against SoCal’s blazing summer heat: “I installed 75-amp Bosch relays (left) in place of the supplied 30-amp relays (right). As the outside air temp goes up, the wires get heat-soaked, increasing resistance and amp-draw, so you have to derate the official specs.” On the car, they mount to the core support using Nutsert rivet nuts.

21] Rollings added a Hayden adjustable fan controller with a pipe-threaded thermal probe. “It’s safer than an all-metal probe slid through the radiator fins, where you can have a direct short to ground if there’s ever metal-to-metal contact.” The Hayden mounts with surplus aircraft “pin screws” that have a wrenchless flat head and an internal wrenching hex at the externally-threaded end. This allows tightening a self-locking jet nut from one side.

22] If there’s a trick way to attach something, odds are good you’ll find a solution at your local aircraft surplus hardware store. Jet nuts and pins screws come in an almost infinite variety of variations.

23] The Hayden controller triggers two big 75-amp Bosch relays. Each Bosch relay runs one fan. The Hayden unit has its own 30-amp relay, but it’s not stressed because, in this installation, its “high side” serves only as a low-current trigger for the two larger Bosch relays. Fusible links provide further protection. (Photo: Ryan Lugo)

24] Main power feeds for the electric fan relays and fan controller comes off the Chrysler firewall-mounted starter relay. Fusible links (which did not exist in 1963) were added after this photo was taken for circuit protection.

The Fix: Final Clearance Issues

After everything was buttoned together, Foley’s existing oil filter hit a transmission fluid cooling line. Rollings replaced it with a shorter filter used on many late 1990s Chrysler products. There was also some concern about limited clearance between the fans and water-pump pulley. However, it proved not to be a problem even when the engine “rocked-over” under hard acceleration. All in all, everything fit together like a large jigsaw puzzle.

25] Post-install fitment: Foley’s existing long Wix racing filter (PN 51515R, left) hit the trans cooling lines. It was replaced by a 1⅓-inch shorter Wix filter (PN 51085, right) that’s stock on many mid-to-late-1990s Chrysler products.

26] Electric fan-to-water pump pulley clearance was tight, but acceptable.

The Results

Foley’s Polara runs normally at 185 degrees under normal driving, rising to no more than 205 degrees when he gets real squirrely and performs multiple burnouts. Rollings plans some additional fine-tuning to get the dinosaur motor to behave a little better during daily street driving, though we expect the 13.5:1 mill will always need additive.

Lessons Learned

If you really want to drive a classic, high-compression, muscle-car clone on the street, be prepared to implement modern tech to keep it alive. On some of these cars—especially those cloned from a more sedate model—not everything is as it’s “supposed to be.” Be prepared to check fitment on every add-on, and don’t be afraid to mod as needed so everything fits together like it should. That’s hot rodding!

The only heat the now-cool, bright-yellow Polara generates is the rumpity-rump of the never-to-be forgotten age of big Detroit muscle.

Need Junk Fixed? If your car has a gremlin that just won’t quit, you could be chosen for Hot Rod to the Rescue. Email us at [email protected] and put “Rescue” in the subject line. Include a description of your problem, a photo, your location, and a daytime phone number.

440Source.com 775.883.2590 440source.com

Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. 877.4.SPRUCE or 951.372.9555 AircraftSpruce.com

Automotive Racing Products (ARP) 800.826.3045 or 805.339.2200 ARP-Bolts.com

Bernell Hydraulics Inc. CA; 800.326.7252 or 909.899.1751 BernellHydraulics.com

Fastenal Co. 877.507.7555 or 507.454.5374 Fastenal.com

Flex-a-lite, a Legend Co. 800.851.1510 (sales) or 253.922.2700 (tech & customer service) Flex-a-lite.com

G&J Aircraft and Competition 909.986.6534 GandJAircraft.net

Griffin Thermal Products 800.722.3723 or 864.845.5000 GriffinRad.com

Hayden Automotive (Four Seasons Div./Standard Motor Products Inc.) 888.505.4567; HaydenAuto.com

Ideal Clamp Products Inc. 800.251.3220 or 615.459.5800 IdealTridon.com

Lucas Oil Products Inc. 800.342.2512 or 951.270.0154 LucasOil.com

Moroso Performance Products 203.453.6571 (sales/customer support); 203.458.0542 or 203-458-0546 (tech) Moroso.com

O’Reilly Auto Parts 888.327.7153 (internet orders), 800.755.6759 (store customer service), or 417.829.5727 OReillyAuto.com

O’Reilly Auto Parts Store #2682 951.685.0822 OReillyAuto.com

Phenix Industries 951.780.9330 PhenixInudstries.com

Pico Wiring Accessories 541.688.9646 PicoWiring.com

Powermaster Motorsports 630.957.4019 (sales) or 630.849.7754 (tech) PowermasterPerformance.com

Robert Bosch LLC 917.421.7209; Bosch.us

Rollings Automotive Inc. 951.361.3001 RollingsAutoInc.com

Summit Racing Equipment 800.230.3030 (orders) or 330.630.0240 (tech) SummitRacing.com

Waytek Wire 800.328.3274 or 952.949.0965 WaytekWire.com

Wix Filters 704.869.3421 (customer service), 704.864.6748 (sales), or 800.949.6698 (USA, product information) WixFilters.com

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itsworn · 7 years ago

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We make a 1964 Chevelle more reliable and efficient with Holley Sniper EFI

The popularity of modernizing a classic Chevrolet is undeniable. The automotive aftermarket supports the modifications with lots of great parts that allow you to bolt modern technology to a vintage platform. And while LS swaps are commonplace, a good old-fashioned small-block Chevy can be treated to modern technology and still retain its nostalgic nature. In our case, we’re dealing with a bone-stock 283ci small-block Chevy under the hood of a 1964 Chevelle. This engine has never been cracked open or messed with, so it’s a great application for daily driving, especially when we replace the leaky and wheezy Rochester two-barrel carburetor.

Our choice for a modern induction system is a Holley Sniper EFI system. The system bolts to any manifold with a four-barrel carburetor flange, and will work on a 600-horsepower stroker as well as our 200-horsepower stocker. The beauty of the system is that it tunes itself as you’re driving down the road. It’s fully configurable to your own custom settings, but it’s also equipped with default settings that can get you wherever you need to go. For our setup, it made the most sense to include a Holley EFI-ready fuel tank with our Sniper system so the fuel pump would be submerged in the tank for quiet and reliable operation.

The combination of the EFI-ready fuel tank and the Holley Sniper EFI system offered an easy and clean installation. We wanted the old-school engine to have the right look so we took the opportunity to clean the engine and outfit it with some fresh Holley accessories while it was apart. Without a close visual inspection, you’d never know the car has fuel injection, but the ease of operation makes it quite obvious that we’re no longer dealing with an old Rochester carburetor.

After the Holley system tuned itself and we tweaked a few of the air/fuel ratio settings, it was time to put some miles on the refreshed 283, and we did just that. Cold start and hot start behavior improved greatly. We also noticed a small bump in average fuel mileage, going from 16 mpg to nearly 18 mpg. Given the upgrade to an aluminum dual-plane intake manifold and the precise fuel curve of the Holley Sniper system we undoubtedly gained horsepower but didn’t feel the need to twist the guts out of the tired 283 on the dyno. After all, this install isn’t strictly about power and torque—it’s about user-friendly technology that can bring any old-school engine into the modern era.

We installed the system in our garage with standard tools that are mostly likely already in your toolbox. If you’re doing the fuel tank and the Sniper system install like we did, set aside a couple of good weekends in the shop to make the conversion. Whether you’re dealing with a bone-stock engine like this one or a rowdy Saturday night special, this Holley Sniper EFI system is a bolt-on solution to fuel system tuning that you can install and tune at home.

1. Our starting point is the original 283ci small-block in our 1964 Chevelle. We’ve already installed a new water pump, electronic ignition, Vintage Air A/C, and a Powermaster one-wire alternator. It’s time to wake up this sleepy Mouse motor with Holley EFI.

2. The original air cleaner goes to the swap meet pile, and the old Rochester two-barrel carburetor isn’t far behind. Despite a recent rebuild, it still leaked and had an off-idle hesitation.

3. The original air cleaner goes to the swap meet pile, and the old Rochester two-barrel carburetor isn’t far behind. Despite a recent rebuild, it still leaked and had an off-idle hesitation.

4. One of our first modifications to the 283 was an electronic ignition system. And since the Holley Sniper EFI is compatible with our current distributor, we’ll be reusing it, but freshening up the ignition system with a new coil and plug wires.

5. After removing the upper radiator hose, heater hose, throttle linkage and fuel line, we yank the cast-iron intake and Rochester two-barrel carburetor. Judging by the condition of this car, this is probably the first time the intake manifold has been removed.

6. We stuffed rags into the ports and scraped gasket material until the cylinder heads were clean. With more than 50 years of heat cycles the gaskets were baked on, but a sharp putty knife did the trick.

7. Replacing the original cast-iron intake manifold is this Weiand Street Warrior dual-plane aluminum intake (PN 8150). It was a no-brainer to go with an aluminum intake versus a stock-style cast-iron unit for weight savings, a clean appearance, and, of course, a four-barrel flange for easy installation of the Holley Sniper EFI system.

8. Using a combination of Fel-Pro gaskets and Permatex RTV on the ends, we create a welcoming environment for the new intake.

9. We carefully lower the intake manifold into place, being sure that our bolt holes are lined up and that we don’t damage the beads of silicone.

10. After grabbing a new engine bolt kit from Summit Racing, we installed the new hardware and tightened it while the silicone was still pliable. We start by tightening the four bolts closest to the carburetor flange and then working our way outward.

11. We want to get the water flowing as soon as possible on our daily driver Chevelle so we went with a 160-degree thermostat. It’s also important to note that the Holley Sniper EFI system does not start self-learning until the water temp reaches 160 degrees.

12. The distributor easily slides back into place, with the rotor pointing toward the number one cylinder once the distributor is seated.

13. Now it’s time for the fun stuff! We’re ready to install the Holley Sniper EFI throttle body. We ordered ours with the Classic Gold finish (PN 550-516), and it should look right at home on our stock 283ci engine.

14. The Sniper EFI throttle body bolts onto a four-barrel intake, using four bolts, or in our case, four studs and nuts.

15. Our original throttle linkage can be reused, but every car is different. Your application may need some adjustment to have the full range of motion.

16. The Holley Sniper EFI kit comes with a modern style coolant temperature sensor, which threads into the Weiand intake manifold with a small amount of sealant on the threads. Then, we plug in the connector from the Sniper wiring harness.

17. Wiring for the Holley Sniper EFI system is self-explanatory, as most of it is a simple plug-and-play connection.

18. As we routed the wires and the fuel hoses (supply and return), we found a nice home for the fuel pump relay. This clamp holds the fuel hoses and the relay, and it mounts to the heater box stud for easy access.

19. Our Chevelle doesn’t have many accessories so we were able to run the 12v power wire to an open terminal on the fuse block. The important thing is that the terminal provides a constant 12 volts with the key in the On position.

20. The Holley Sniper EFI kit features a small yellow wire that connects to the negative side of the ignition coil. We shortened the wire and installed a ring connector before installing it on the coil.

21. The final step for wiring is to install the main hot wire and ground directly to the battery. This works best if you have a battery with top and side posts. The only remaining wire in the system is the blue wire, which powers the electric fuel pump.

22. The Sniper EFI throttle body has three options for the fuel supply line and we chose the one at the driver-side rear. The fuel return hose connects on the passenger side at the rear of the unit, where the built-in fuel pressure regulator is located. We used Earl’s 3/8-inch fuel-injection hose and clamps.

23. There are a couple of options for fuel delivery. One is to install an inline fuel pump outside of the tank and the other is to install a new EFI-ready fuel tank. We opted for the new Sniper EFI-ready Fuel Tank (PN 19-105), as this allowed us to use the supplied in-tank Walbro 255-lph fuel pump.

24. We covered the complete installation of the Holley EFI-ready fuel tank and pump system in a previous article. After fitting the fuel pump and sending unit assemblies to the new tank, we connect the blue fuel pump power wire, the grounds, and the fuel hoses.

25. Since we’re swapping to an electric fuel pump, we need to block off the original mechanical fuel pump hole. Holley includes this finned plate in its Sniper EFI kit.

26. Finally, we needed to install a bung for the O2 sensor. There isn’t a precise, preferred angle but as long as the O2 sensor is at least 90-degrees in relation to the ground, it will keep it from showing a false reading due to collecting condensation or raw fuel.

27. Now we can finally put power to the system by hooking up the battery, and turning the ignition switch to the On position. The Holley Sniper EFI handheld display quickly loads and starts a series of options to select. First is the system type, which includes the part number of our Sniper EFI kit.

28. From there, the display gives you the option for number of cylinders, which is obviously eight for this application.

29. Holley’s system features a sliding scale for the cubic inches. We move the bar to 283 cubic inches and click Next.

30. Next is the target idle speed, which we set for 850 rpm. This is something that we can dial in later, as the system tunes itself.

31. The next option is for the type of camshaft in use. The three options give the Sniper EFI system an idea of your engine’s build type so that it can tune accordingly. Our old 283 is bone stock, so we chose the Stock/Mild option.

32. Power Adder Type is the next option, which we answer with None. The Sniper EFI system is capable of supporting nitrous oxide, supercharged, and turbocharged combinations.

33. The final option is the ignition source. For our application, we’re running an old-style small-body distributor with an external coil, so we choose the “Coil (-)” option.

34. And now for the moment of truth, we turn the key and the car fires within a couple of rotations of the starter. The Holley system has default settings for target air/fuel ratios, which can be changed to your liking. The system begins self-tuning when the coolant temperature reaches 160 degrees (this can also be changed).

35. We finished off the Sniper EFI install with a set of Holley’s new Vintage Series finned aluminum valve covers in polished finish (PN 241-241). We matched it with a 14-inch round finned aluminum air cleaner (PN 120-151), complete with 3-inch premium element.

Source:

Holley Performance Products

866.464.6553

www.holley.com

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bbqtek · 7 years ago

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itsworn · 8 years ago

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Installing and Dyno-Testing a Vortech Supercharger on a Chevy 4.8 L Engine

Car Craft has always been about the underdog. Anybody with a water-cooled checkbook can go out and buy a supercharged LS9 and make big power. That leaves the rest of us looking for a less-expensive route. Our sojourn started many moons ago with a fairly simple plan: see how cheaply we could stuff a small LS engine in the Orange Peel Chevelle. We bought what we were told was a used 5.3L only to discover we had been 4.8L hoodwinked. Despite its runt status, we persevered with bolt-on parts and eventually a tickle of nitrous, and our littlest warrior just keeps making power.

In the Dec. 2016 issue, Car Craft showed you how the 4.8L made 430 hp with help from a set of mildly ported heads from Richard Reyman and his crew at West Coast Racing Cylinder Heads (WCRCH). That’s when comrade/tech geek Richard Holdener said, “Hey, let’s bolt a blower on it and see what it’ll do.” We applied boost with a Vortech carbureted blow-through, V-3 Si series supercharger kit that bolted right on the front of our LS using the MaxFuel Power Hat. Because the cylinder heads bumped the compression up to 10.0:1, we ran the engine on 110-octane Rockett Brand gasoline and were surprised by the results: this seriously used, 293ci motor thumped out 636 hp at 11 psi of boost, using a 7.5-inch ATI crank pulley and a CSU-prepped blow-through carburetor. The boost and horsepower were still climbing when we shut the test down, mainly to preserve those cast pistons. We weren’t concerned as much with the effect of cylinder pressure as we were with the g-force loads on the pistons above 6,500 rpm. Plus, we wanted to test the engine in our Chevelle.

The most complex part of the entire installation is drilling and adding a drive pin between the Summit balancer and crank snout because LS engines don’t come with a woodruff key. This pin prevents the balancer from spinning on the crank snout because larger blowers can demand 50 hp worth of load that pulls right off the crank snout. The blower we used in the car was the same supercharger—but with a completely different drive assembly—utilizing Summit Racing’s 10-rib SFI balancer and Billet Front Drive accessory assembly. Its kit includes the bracket, alternator, and power-steering pump. We added an early Camaro-style water pump and a drivebelt to complete the system.

We had to cut a small clearance hole in the right-side, inner wheelwell to clear the edge of the blower. Once the blower and accessory drive were bolted in place and the radiator was refilled, the last part of the installation required some fabrication. The blow-through kit comes with a cone-shaped air filter, but we didn’t want the air cleaner sitting right on top of the passenger-side header. We dug up a length of wire-reinforced, 4-inch-diameter, brake-duct hose that we adapted to the air filter. We placed the filter at the firewall, where our cowl-induction hood can supply plenty of cool air.

Back at Westech, the first pull was extremely rich, so we pulled the jets down to more manageable 75s in the primary and secondary. That left the transition from part throttle to wide-open throttle (WOT) still very rich, but once the boost came up, the air/fuel ratio eventually stabilized at 11.7:1 at peak power. For timing, we eventually settled on 26 degrees of timing, and our first full pull through 5,500 rpm produced 5 psi of boost and 475 hp. Things were looking good.

Eric says our TH200-4R automatic and small tires will generally devour 100 hp on its way to the rear wheels. Calculating back from our 632-flywheel-horsepower peak at 11.7 psi, we set our sights on 532 rwhp. With our first pull on the chassis dyno showing 475 hp at only 5 psi boost, we were very encouraged, despite our engine not revving past 5,500 rpm.

Westech’s Eric Rhee’s tuning experience came to the rescue. In the past, he’s seen digital rev limiters become confused, causing ignition cuts at lower than specified engine speeds. We had set the MSD box at 6,800 rpm, but the limiter shut the engine off below 6,000 rpm. Rhee raised the limiter speed to 8,000 rpm, and on the next test, our Tiny Dancer twirled right over 6,500 rpm and peak power jumped to 502 hp at 6,400 rpm. However, we were only able to make 6 psi boost on the stock pulleys. Vortech’s Jimmy Martz told us its self-contained blowers are limited to 52,000 rpm of blower speed. He calculated that with our stock pulleys, we were turning 46,800 rpm on the supercharger at an engine speed of 6,500 rpm, so we can safely change pulleys for more blower speed to make more boost. In the meantime, we will see what kind of performance we can achieve with 91-octane gasoline, including a Snow Performance water/methanol injection kit. We’d really like to see 500 hp at the wheels on pump gas.

Vortech offers a blow-through LSx supercharger package that includes the self-contained V-3 Si supercharger. Self-contained means the supercharger holds its own lubrication and does not use engine oil. This makes installation much easier because no return line to the oil pan is required.

We started by bolting our engine to Westech’s SuperFlow engine dyno. With help from Richard Holdener, the Vortech V-3 blower pushed the little 4.8 to 632 hp and 519 lb-ft of torque using 11 psi boost pressure on Rockett 100-octane race gas.

After removing the accessory drive and balancer, we drilled a longitudinal slot in the crank using Vortech’s drill guide to pin the balancer. This ensures the harmonic balancer does not spin on the crank snout under blower load. We then installed Summit Racing’s SFI balancer using the dedicated installer tool. This balancer is configured with a Corvette depth for the accessory drive and offers a three-bolt flange for the blower crank pulley.

When mounting the supercharger to the engine installed in our 1966 Chevelle, we discovered the inner fenderwell interfered with mounting the supercharger.

We cut a hole in the inner fenderwell to get the blower to fit. The hole didn’t need to be quite so large, so we’ll eventually clean this up and create a clearance bubble for the supercharger.

Summit Racing sells a very nice LS engine accessory drive that includes the brackets, alternator, power-steering pump and pulley, and fasteners. Summit Racing also provided a Corvette/Camaro-style water pump to match the drive assembly, so the only other pieces needed are a Gates tensioner and belt to complete the installation. We opted to not use the power-steering pump because our Chevelle has manual steering.

Making big power requires a good fuel-delivery system. While this Phantom in-tank fuel-delivery system isn’t necessary for a carburetor, we have plans to try a self-learning throttle-body system on this engine and it will demand a system like this. We’ll also use an Aeromotive X1 regulator that easily converts between carb and EFI fuel pressure.

Here’s the completed installation, including our temporary 4-inch hose that placed the air cleaner directly underneath the Chevelle’s cowl-induction hood. Also note the Vortech MaxFlow Power Hat that acts like a diffuser to even the pressure across the top of the carburetor. This was used on both the engine and chassis dyno tests.

Our Chevelle performed extremely well on the chassis dyno at wide-open throttle (WOT), but it’s still too fat at mid-throttle. The biggest challenge from here will be tuning the carburetor to be properly lean at part throttle and still deliver at rich air/fuel ratios at WOT.

Engine Dyno Test

Our 4.8L engine in this configuration used a stock 4.8L short-block with 140,000 miles on the odometer. The heads are stock castings that were mildly ported by WCRCH. The compression ratio is 10.0:1. The cam is a Comp 269Lr (see specs in chart) with an Edelbrock Performer RPM dual-plane intake, QuickFuel 650 BAN blow-through carb, and Hooker 1-3/4-inch headers with open exhaust. Note that peak torque occurred at 6,200 rpm, and we stopped the test at 6,500. It’s likely the peak horsepower would occur somewhere around 7,500 rpm, but we did not want to spin this cast-piston engine that high.

RPM TQ HP Boost 3,500 387 258 3.7 3,600 382 262 4 3,700 382 269 4.2 3,800 386 279 4.3 3,900 392 291 4.5 4,000 401 306 4.8 4,100 409 319 4.9 4,200 418 334 5.1 4,300 427 350 5.3 4,400 437 366 5.6 4,500 446 382 5.9 4,600 452 396 6.1 4,700 458 410 6.3 4,800 465 425 6.6 4,900 471 440 6.8 5,000 477 454 7 5,100 483 469 7.3 5,200 490 485 7.6 5,300 494 498 7.9 5,400 496 510 8.3 5,500 500 523 8.6 5,600 504 537 8.9 5,700 508 552 9.1 5,800 512 565 9.4 5,900 515 578 9.6 6,000 517 590 9.9 6,100 518 602 10.2 6,200 519 613 10.7 6,300 519 623 11.1 6,400 518 631 11.4 6,500 514 636 11.7

Chassis Dyno Test

The rwhp test was also performed at Westech. The engine was configured with the same Vortech supercharger but fitted with a smaller crank pulley, which lowered the boost curve. The point worthy of note is the excellent rwhp numbers relative to the low boost level.

RPM HP TQ Boost 3,132 223 374 1.6 3,216 234 382 1.7 3,467 254 386 1.9 3,552 260 385 2 3,636 266 384 2.1 3,805 279 386 2.4 3,978 297 392 2.6 4,154 314 397 2.8 4,332 332 403 3 4,509 350 408 3.3 4,693 368 412 3.6 4,878 390 420 3.9 5,065 412 427 4.1 5,256 432 432 4.5 5,446 450 434 4.8 5,636 463 432 5.1 5,824 474 427 5.3 6,011 483 422 5.4 6,195 495 420 5.6 6,377 502 414 5.7 6,552 496 397 5.5

4.8L Tiny Dancer Bibliography

*Summer edition of Engine Swaps, Budget LS Engine Swap *Nov. 2013, pg. 40 “Moving Cheap (Tiny Dancer) Part I,” 12s on Nitrous *Dec. 2013, pg. 44 “Tiny Dancer Part II,” 11.40s on Nitrous *Jan. 2014 pg. 42 “Tiny Dancer, Part III,” Suspension Changes *Dec. 2016, pg. 14 “Underdog Bites Back,” 430 NA HP Dyno Test

Parts List

Description PN Source Price Vortech V-3 LSx supercharger kit 4GX218-020L Jegs $3,992.99 West Coast Racing ported 5.3L heads Call WCRCH $1,062.00 Summit SFI LS harmonic balancer SUM-C2501 Summit Racing $189.97 ARP crank bolt 234-2503 Summit Racing $34.57 Comp hyd roller cam 269Lr 54-456-11 Summit Racing $377.97 Hooker 1-3/4-inch coated headers 2289-1HKR Summit Racing $763.95 Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane 71187 Summit Racing $316.84 QuickFuel 650-cfm blow-through carb SS-650-BAN Summit Racing $776.95 Summit LS billet front drive CSUMLS103 Summit Racing $570.82 AC Delco 2000 Camaro water pump 19256263 Summit Racing $218.97 Contitech 6-rib serpentine belt PK060730 Summit Racing $14.97 Gates tensioner 39194 RockAuto $43.89 Mr Gasket straight thermostat housing 2671 Summit Racing $30.57 MSD LS1/LS6 ignition box 6010 Summit Racing $364.95 Rockett Brand 100-octane racing gas 100 Octane Call dealer Call dealer Aeromotive Phantom 340 pump kit 18688 Summit Racing $463.97 Aeromotive X1 regulator 13304 Summit Racing $195.97 Summit LS balancer puller/install tool SME-K-906008 Summit Racing $149.97

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