#1/2 x 1 1/2 galvanized lag bolt

[fixdex-fastening-technology]

l bolt galvanized

click here to see more of this product

[yesterdaysdreams]

A-Frame Playhouse DIY

Alright guys!! Most requested blog DIY ever. Here we go! Time to show you how we built this a-frame playhouse!!! This playhouse sits right next to the mid-century playset (which has swings and a slide) and they make a really cute pair.

Here are few photos inside the a-frame before we jump into the DIY!

As some of you may remember, we built these during our wait to adopt Nova and it is one of the most gratifying and heart-filling things on this planet to finally spend our days playing in them.

Here are the DIY steps, supplies and the cost to build it:

Supplies: -eight 4″ x 4″ x 6′ pressure treated posts ($52.96) -four 50-lb bags of fast setting concrete ($21.84) -sixteen 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards ($63.52) -eight 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards ($29.76) -two 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ pressure treated plywood ($67.58) -eight 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards ($17.02) -one 2″ x 6″ x 8′ board ($6.02) -fourteen 3/4″ x 12″ x 8′ boards ($206) -one 1/2″ x 2′ x 4′ plywood ($13.67) -two 1/2″ x 4″ x 6′ boards ($8.34) -four 5/8″ x 4″ galvanized steel lag bolts & washers ($26) -twelve 1/4″ x 8″ self drilling screws ($15.24) -two boxes of  2″ wood screws ($23.45) -ten 2′ x 8′ galvanized steel corrugated roof panels ($102.50) -one 10″ x  8′ galvanized steel roof top ($21.62) -one box of self tapping sheet metal screws ($5.78) -two door hinges ($4.05) -two door handles ($10.15) -one gallon of exterior paint & primer ($39.89) -one gallon of oil base exterior paint ($39.89) -one gallon of Cabot Clear Wood Protector ($31.99) -waterproof caulk ($3.74) -yard flags (optional)

Total $844.77

Tools: -post hole diggers -drill -compound miter saw -4′ level -ratchet with 1/2″ socket (for 5/8″ lag bolts) -5/8′ drill bit -tape measure -one 6′ ladder -pneumatic nail gun -jigsaw -paint brush

First, decide how big you want the base of your playhouse to be. Ours is 6′ x 8′. Measure out and mark the 4 corners of the playhouse in the grass with some yard flags and with your post hole diggers, dig a hole in each 4 corners about 1 1/2′ deep. Take a few of your 4″ x 4″ x 6′ pressure treated posts and cut them to your desired height you want the base to be and place them into the holes. Keep in mind each post you cut will be a different height, so in order to account for unevenness of the ground, you want the tops of each post to completely level with each other. Here is a pretty easy and foolproof way to make sure that happens … Start by placing one post in a hole and pouring in some concrete all around the base of that post. Add some water and mix with a stick. Make sure the post is completely level and wait about 20 minutes until it’s semi set and isn’t going to move on you. Repeat these steps for each post, making sure each post is level with the last one you already set in concrete.

Take your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards and cut them to make the frame, starting with the 4 outside boards. Fasten them with wood screws and then take your 5/8′ drill bit and pre-drill your holes for your lag bolts. Take your ratchet and your lag bolts and fasten them to all 4 posts. Next, take more of your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards and make a grid on the inside of the frame to support your plywood floor. There is no wrong way to do this, you can look at the first picture and see it is a little random. Take your 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ pressure treated plywood and lay them down on your base and fasten them with wood screws all along the sides. (I got our local hardware store to cut one of my pieces of plywood for me.)

Next, take your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards and cut the bottom ends to be flush with the ground and the tops to be flush with the center support beam with your miter saw. This will make the “A-Frame” part. I wish there was an exact way to teach how to cut these angles, but it is going to depend on the size of your playhouse. You will have to do some trial and error to figure out the exact degrees of these angles.  Use your 1/4″ x 8″ self drilling screws to fasten all of the boards to the base of the playhouse and to the top center beam ( 2″ x 6″ x 8′ board) as shown above. If your a-frame roof feels a bit wobbly or unstable, don’t worry, the next step will take care of that!

Take your 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards and cut them into 32 support pieces for in between each post of the a-frame roof. This will make your a-frame roof secure and sturdy and also creates supports for the metal roof panels you will add in a little bit. Take a few more of your 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards and frame out the front door. Our door is 2′ x 4′ but you can customize the size for your own. Next, take your 3/4″ x 12″ x 8′ boards and cut them for the front and back sides of the playhouse. The easiest way to make these angled cuts (at least for me anyway!) is to hold up one board at a time, making sure it’s level and then take a pencil and trace those angles and place it on your miter saw and match the angle of the blade to the pencil mark. Make sense? Good! I did this with each board starting from the bottom and worked my way up and used my pneumatic nailgun to fasten them to the frame.

The front door is pretty simple, above is all of the pieces laid out so you can see. I was able to buy this piece of plywood already cut to 2′ x 4′ which made it super easy. i just took my 1/2″ x 4″ x 6′ boards and cut them to fit as the trim. Glue or nail all of the pieces together.

Take your 2′ x 8′ galvanized steel corrugated roof panels and fasten them to the roof using your self taping metal screws. This part is pretty easy; simply lay the panels against the frame one at a time and screw them down, making sure they overlap about 2″ every panel. Once those are up you can grab your rooftop panel and lay it over the top and screw down the sides along both sides. You will have an open gap on the top either side of your roof panel, so what i did was take a small scrap piece of wood and hold it up to the gap and trace the shape. I then grabbed my jigsaw and cut out the funny shape so that it fit in the empty gap. Repeat this for the other side as well. Take your door and your hinges and install the door. To trace out the circle for the window, I traced out the desired size on a piece of cardboard first, cut it out and used that as a template to trace on the a-frame. Once I had it traced perfectly on the wood, I got a drill bit and drilled a pilot hole for my jigsaw blade to fit in and slowly cut out the circle. Repeat this on the opposite side of the playhouse.

NOTE: After almost a year of wear, our painted roof has held up poorly. Instead of painting your roof we recommend not painting it or buying metal that is already painted (must be intended for outdoor projects). This is our one and only regret/learning that we would do differently. 

Next, the porch! This is pretty similar to the base of the playhouse. Once you decide the design/size you want, dig some holes in the corners of the porch for your posts and set them in concrete the same way you did for the playhouse. Once the posts are all set, frame out the outside of the porch and then screw in cross braces in between to support the floor all with your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards. As you can see in the picture above, I attached some of the braces to the actual playhouse.

Once the porch is framed out, you’re ready for the floor pieces! Take your 3/4″ x 12″ boards and cut them to the correct length to fit onto the porch frame and screw them down with screws. Now if you’re planning on painting the wood on the a-frame, don’t forget to caulk any cracks first! If you’re leaving it natural, use your Cabot clear wood protector and brush it on to make it waterproof. Do this with the entire porch too!

The play food is so cute! This project is straight out of my dreams and I still can’t believe it’s real! Collin did such a beautiful job building it and making my sketches into a reality. I know it will be a magical part of Nova’s childhood!

We have so much fun playing in it together. She mainly cooks me noodles and coffee on repeat and I act extremely excited about them every single time. Life is beautiful!

If you have any questions, feel free to ask us in the comments! xx. Elsie

  Credits//Author: Elsie Larson and Collin DuPree. Photography: Amber Ulmer. Photos edited with A Color Story Desktop.

from RSSMix.com Mix ID 8265713 https://ift.tt/2KgYzsT via IFTTT

[cloverincinerator]

www.chinaclover.net has been published on http://www.chinaclover.net/incinerator-testing-commissioning/

INCINERATOR TESTING AND COMMISSIONING

A flue chimney, 15,000mm long and 560mm diameter shall be constructed from steel sheet, complete with lagging, damper and rain water protection cone.  The chimney shall be lined with castable grade diatomaceous concrete mixed with high alumina cement in accordance with BS 4076: 1989.

The damper will control the closing of the door to not less than 85%.  The stack is to allow fresh air at the stock’s base so that the flue gases are discharged at not move then 4000 C and that the discharge conforms to the British Clean Air Act, the National Environment Management Agency (NEMA) Act or other relevant acts. .

1.1.4    POWER SUPPLY

The sub-contractor shall supply equipment which are suitable for running on a 415V, 3 phase, 50HZ or 240V, single phase, 50HZ electric power supply.

1.1.5   OIL STORAGE AND SUPPLY

The system shall consist of a bulk oil storage tank, daily tank, transfer hand fuel pump and associated pipe work.  Oil from the bulk storage tank will be delivered to a high level daily tank situated in the incinerator room by use of a transfer hand pump and automatic electric pump.

1.1.6    SPARES AND MANUALS

The tenderer is to submit with his tender a list of recommended initial stock of spares together with their prices.  A part from the burner spares mentioned here below, the spares prices are not to be included in the main summary of prices schedule but is to be separate and are meant to be ordered later if and when it becomes necessary and convenient to the client.  The burner spares whose prices are to be included in the main summary of prices schedule (BQ) are:-

i)     1No. Set of safety controls ii)    1No. Solenoid valve iii)    1No. Oil ignition system iv)    2No. Photo-electric cells

Two sets of operating and maintenance manuals (both for the incinerator and burners) must also be supplied. This include two sets of control schematic diagrams for all the controls and wiring.

1.1.7   BULK OIL STORAGE TANK

The bulk oil storage tank nominal capacity of 10,200 litres and complying with BS 799 part 5: 1975 shall be positioned on three concrete cradles.

The works shall include supply, delivery, assembling, erection, testing, commissioning and setting to work.  The tank is to be of welded mild steel type with a design pressure of  40KN/m2 and storage temperature of 240  C.  It is to be located adjacent to the incinerator and boiler house.

The tank shall be cylindrical with dished end and be constructed of 6mm thick block mild steel plates in accordance with BS 1966.  Number one quality galvanised materials shall not be used.Welded construction parts shall be sprayed.

E-4

The tank shall be pressure tested with a total head of water or equivalent, measured from the base of the tank, and equal to 1½ times the sum of:

(i)     The height of the tank and (ii)    The design head above the top of the tank that is 3.5m of water.

The pressure shall be raised slowly and steadily until the specified test pressure is reached and that pressure shall be maintained for a period long enough to permit a thorough examination to be made to ensure that the tank is sound enough and shows no leaks or undue distortion.  Welded joints shall be radiographed and a certificate issued.  Should any defects be found, they shall be made good and the test procedure repeated until the tank is certified to be sound.  The tests shall be carried out in the presence of the Engineer and subsequently, the sub-contractor will provide the Engineer with the test certificate.

The tank shall then be cleaned externally and provided with rust inhibiting primer before applying 2No. coats of bituminous paint.  The inside shall also be cleaned and purged of any foreign matter before setting to work.

Ladders and platforms shall be thoroughly cleaned and freed from rust and scale and painted with a priming coat of approved paint.

The tank shall be provided with the following:-

(i)    450mm bolted inspection covers with liquid and vapour tight joint made with a gasket of fuel resistant materials. (ii)    75mm (3”) vent socket screwed B-SP and pipe at the higher end of the tank with an unloading device to prevent the rise in tank pressure above the design pressure.  The vent pipe shall be free from bends and shall have a continuous rise while being as short as convenient.  It shall terminate in open air in a position where it cannot be tampered with.  The open end shall be turned down and fitted with an open mesh wire cage. (iii)    65mm diameter filling pipe with hose coupling connection (iv)    50mm diameter gauging connection with lockable cap. (v)     50mm diameter supply pipe (vi)     25mm diameter water drain-off value

The tenderer shall supply hydrostatic oil contents gauge (level indicator) or a properly calibrated stick (of dip tape) and access ladder to the top of the tank.

The filling pipe shall be extended inside the tank to within 150mm of tank bottom, complete with anti-siphoning device.

The following information shall be permanently and clearly marked on the tank on the centre line near the outlet connection.

•    Gross capacity in litres •    Test pressure •    Date of test •    Maximum allowable working pressure •    Manufacturer’s name of trade mark •    Year of manufacture •    The number of British standard and type of tank

The tank shall be installed with a 25mm fall towards the water drain-off tapping point.  The supply socket shall be extended inside the tank to prevent ingress of water in the supply line.  The main contractor shall construct tank supports and bund walls to detail drawings produced by the sub-contractor.  A valued drain off from the lowest part of the tank shall be provided complete with tail pipe and a provision for hose connection.

E-5

1.1.8    TRANSFER HAND PUMP

A semi rotary hand pump shall be provided for filling the day storage tank from the oil drum.  It shall be installed complete with all the necessary plumbing fittings and accessories.

1.1.9   DAILY SERVICE TANK

A daily storage tank of nominal capacity 1,800Litres shall be mounted at 2.5 metre high level in the incinerator room.   Tank shall be manufactured from 6mm thick pressed steel plates of 1220mm x 1220mm black mild steel sheet, complete with bolted cover and adequate venting.  The tank shall conform to BS 799 part 5 1995 and be provided with a contents sight tube. The tank shall be lagged with 50mm thick fibre glass insulation of 0.4W/m2 thermal conductivity and finished with 20SWG galvanized sheets cladding.

The tank shall be tested for any leaks of which if any is detected will be made good before the tank is painted externally with rust inhibiting paint. Tank to be securely bolted.

1.1.10  AUXILLIARY EQUIPMENT

All pipework used in the oil storage systems shall be to B.S. 1387 heavy grade.  Joints shall be screwed, and sufficient unions must be provided to allow easy dismantling the equipment.

A 25mm diameter fire valve of the quick action lever operated dead weight type shall be installed, in the oil flow line.  This shall be held in the open position by a light gauge steel cable attached to a fusible link.  The fusible link shall be mounted directly over the burner.  The warm burner oil feed pipe from the high level day tank shall be heated by an electric tracing tape properly wrapped around the pipe.  The pipe shall then be insulated with 25mm thick fibre glass insulation and finished with gauge 22swg galvanized steel sheet.

The supply pipe from the bulk oil storage tank to the high level day has been installed by others but the tenderer shall allow for connection to the high level day tank.  The tenderer shall also supply and install high capacity strainers along the supply pipe and the burner feed pipe.

1.1.11   PIPE SUPPORTS

The variety and type of supports shall be kept to a minimum and their design shall be such as to facilitate guide and secure fixing to match concrete masonry or wood.

Consideration shall be given when designing supports to the maintenance of desired pipe fall and the restraining of pipe movements to a longitudinal axial direction only.

The sub-contractor shall supply and install all steel work forming part of pipe support assemblies and shall be responsible for making good any damage to builders work associated with builders work installation.

Pipe runs shall be secured by clips connected to pipe hangers, wall brackets or trapeze type supports.  ‘U’ bolts shall not be used for clips without prior approval of the Engineer.

The sub-contractor shall submit his entire proposal for the pipe supports to the Engineer for approval before any erection work commences.

1.1.12   ELECTRICAL WORKS

All wiring between items, plant and controls shall be executed by the tenderer. The tenderer shall provide adequate supervision to ensure that electrical connections are correctly made to all items of equipment and controls supplied by him, all to the Project Manager’s / Engineer’s satisfaction.

E-6

1.1.13    INCINERATOR TESTING AND COMMISSIONING

The tenderer shall test and commission the incinerator in the presence of the Engineer.The tenderer shall also provide sufficient oil to last at least two (2) hours.  The tenderer shall test and commission the incinerator in the presence of the Engineer and verify that the incinerator is functioning according to the specifications laid here-in and in the catalogues and manuals from the suppliers of he incinerator.The incinerator performance test shall be carried out in accordance to BS3316: part 4:1987.Should any defect be detected, it shall be rectified and the testing process repeated to the Project Manager’s satisfaction.

1.1.14    FIRE INSTRUCTION NOTICE

Proceed and procure and install as below;

Print fire instruction on the Perspex plate, 3mm thick with White Colour Background measuring 510mm lengthx380mm width as follows;

[fixdex-fastening-technology]

l bolt galvanized

click here to see more of this product

[yesterdaysdreams]

A-Frame Playhouse DIY

Alright guys!! Most requested blog DIY ever. Here we go! Time to show you how we built this a-frame playhouse!!! This playhouse sits right next to the mid-century playset (which has swings and a slide) and they make a really cute pair.

Here are few photos inside the a-frame before we jump into the DIY!

As some of you may remember, we built these during our wait to adopt Nova and it is one of the most gratifying and heart-filling things on this planet to finally spend our days playing in them.

Here are the DIY steps, supplies and the cost to build it:

Supplies: -eight 4″ x 4″ x 6′ pressure treated posts ($52.96) -four 50-lb bags of fast setting concrete ($21.84) -sixteen 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards ($63.52) -eight 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards ($29.76) -two 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ pressure treated plywood ($67.58) -eight 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards ($17.02) -one 2″ x 6″ x 8′ board ($6.02) -fourteen 3/4″ x 12″ x 8′ boards ($206) -one 1/2″ x 2′ x 4′ plywood ($13.67) -two 1/2″ x 4″ x 6′ boards ($8.34) -four 5/8″ x 4″ galvanized steel lag bolts & washers ($26) -twelve 1/4″ x 8″ self drilling screws ($15.24) -two boxes of  2″ wood screws ($23.45) -ten 2′ x 8′ galvanized steel corrugated roof panels ($102.50) -one 10″ x  8′ galvanized steel roof top ($21.62) -one box of self tapping sheet metal screws ($5.78) -two door hinges ($4.05) -two door handles ($10.15) -one gallon of exterior paint & primer ($39.89) -one gallon of oil base exterior paint ($39.89) -one gallon of Cabot Clear Wood Protector ($31.99) -waterproof caulk ($3.74) -yard flags (optional)

Total $844.77

Tools: -post hole diggers -drill -compound miter saw -4′ level -ratchet with 1/2″ socket (for 5/8″ lag bolts) -5/8′ drill bit -tape measure -one 6′ ladder -pneumatic nail gun -jigsaw -paint brush

First, decide how big you want the base of your playhouse to be. Ours is 6′ x 8′. Measure out and mark the 4 corners of the playhouse in the grass with some yard flags and with your post hole diggers, dig a hole in each 4 corners about 1 1/2′ deep. Take a few of your 4″ x 4″ x 6′ pressure treated posts and cut them to your desired height you want the base to be and place them into the holes. Keep in mind each post you cut will be a different height, so in order to account for unevenness of the ground, you want the tops of each post to completely level with each other. Here is a pretty easy and foolproof way to make sure that happens … Start by placing one post in a hole and pouring in some concrete all around the base of that post. Add some water and mix with a stick. Make sure the post is completely level and wait about 20 minutes until it’s semi set and isn’t going to move on you. Repeat these steps for each post, making sure each post is level with the last one you already set in concrete.

Take your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards and cut them to make the frame, starting with the 4 outside boards. Fasten them with wood screws and then take your 5/8′ drill bit and pre-drill your holes for your lag bolts. Take your ratchet and your lag bolts and fasten them to all 4 posts. Next, take more of your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards and make a grid on the inside of the frame to support your plywood floor. There is no wrong way to do this, you can look at the first picture and see it is a little random. Take your 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ pressure treated plywood and lay them down on your base and fasten them with wood screws all along the sides. (I got our local hardware store to cut one of my pieces of plywood for me.)

Next, take your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards and cut the bottom ends to be flush with the ground and the tops to be flush with the center support beam with your miter saw. This will make the “A-Frame” part. I wish there was an exact way to teach how to cut these angles, but it is going to depend on the size of your playhouse. You will have to do some trial and error to figure out the exact degrees of these angles.  Use your 1/4″ x 8″ self drilling screws to fasten all of the boards to the base of the playhouse and to the top center beam ( 2″ x 6″ x 8′ board) as shown above. If your a-frame roof feels a bit wobbly or unstable, don’t worry, the next step will take care of that!

Take your 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards and cut them into 32 support pieces for in between each post of the a-frame roof. This will make your a-frame roof secure and sturdy and also creates supports for the metal roof panels you will add in a little bit. Take a few more of your 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards and frame out the front door. Our door is 2′ x 4′ but you can customize the size for your own. Next, take your 3/4″ x 12″ x 8′ boards and cut them for the front and back sides of the playhouse. The easiest way to make these angled cuts (at least for me anyway!) is to hold up one board at a time, making sure it’s level and then take a pencil and trace those angles and place it on your miter saw and match the angle of the blade to the pencil mark. Make sense? Good! I did this with each board starting from the bottom and worked my way up and used my pneumatic nailgun to fasten them to the frame.

The front door is pretty simple, above is all of the pieces laid out so you can see. I was able to buy this piece of plywood already cut to 2′ x 4′ which made it super easy. i just took my 1/2″ x 4″ x 6′ boards and cut them to fit as the trim. Glue or nail all of the pieces together.

Take your 2′ x 8′ galvanized steel corrugated roof panels and fasten them to the roof using your self taping metal screws. This part is pretty easy; simply lay the panels against the frame one at a time and screw them down, making sure they overlap about 2″ every panel. Once those are up you can grab your rooftop panel and lay it over the top and screw down the sides along both sides. You will have an open gap on the top either side of your roof panel, so what i did was take a small scrap piece of wood and hold it up to the gap and trace the shape. I then grabbed my jigsaw and cut out the funny shape so that it fit in the empty gap. Repeat this for the other side as well. Take your door and your hinges and install the door. To trace out the circle for the window, I traced out the desired size on a piece of cardboard first, cut it out and used that as a template to trace on the a-frame. Once I had it traced perfectly on the wood, I got a drill bit and drilled a pilot hole for my jigsaw blade to fit in and slowly cut out the circle. Repeat this on the opposite side of the playhouse.

NOTE: After almost a year of wear, our painted roof has held up poorly. Instead of painting your roof we recommend not painting it or buying metal that is already painted (must be intended for outdoor projects). This is our one and only regret/learning that we would do differently. 

Next, the porch! This is pretty similar to the base of the playhouse. Once you decide the design/size you want, dig some holes in the corners of the porch for your posts and set them in concrete the same way you did for the playhouse. Once the posts are all set, frame out the outside of the porch and then screw in cross braces in between to support the floor all with your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards. As you can see in the picture above, I attached some of the braces to the actual playhouse.

Once the porch is framed out, you’re ready for the floor pieces! Take your 3/4″ x 12″ boards and cut them to the correct length to fit onto the porch frame and screw them down with screws. Now if you’re planning on painting the wood on the a-frame, don’t forget to caulk any cracks first! If you’re leaving it natural, use your Cabot clear wood protector and brush it on to make it waterproof. Do this with the entire porch too!

This project is straight out of my dreams and I still can’t believe it’s real! Collin did such a beautiful job building it and making my sketches into a reality. I know it will be a magical part of Nova’s childhood!

We have so much fun playing in it together. She mainly cooks me noodles and coffee on repeat and I act extremely excited about them every single time. Life is beautiful!

If you have any questions, feel free to ask us in the comments! xx. Elsie

  Credits//Author: Elsie Larson and Collin DuPree. Photography: Amber Ulmer. Photos edited with A Color Story Desktop.

from RSSMix.com Mix ID 8265713 https://ift.tt/2KgYzsT via IFTTT

[yesterdaysdreams]

A-Frame Playhouse DIY

Alright guys!! Most requested blog DIY ever. Here we go! Time to show you how we built this a-frame playhouse!!! This playhouse sits right next to the mid-century playset (which has swings and a slide) and they make a really cute pair.

Here are few photos inside the a-frame before we jump into the DIY!

As some of you may remember, we built these during our wait to adopt Nova and it is one of the most gratifying and heart-filling things on this planet to finally spend our days playing in them.

Here are the DIY steps, supplies and the cost to build it:

Supplies: -eight 4″ x 4″ x 6′ pressure treated posts ($52.96) -four 50-lb bags of fast setting concrete ($21.84) -sixteen 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards ($63.52) -eight 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards ($29.76) -two 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ pressure treated plywood ($67.58) -eight 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards ($17.02) -one 2″ x 6″ x 8′ board ($6.02) -fourteen 3/4″ x 12″ x 8′ boards ($206) -one 1/2″ x 2′ x 4′ plywood ($13.67) -two 1/2″ x 4″ x 6′ boards ($8.34) -four 5/8″ x 4″ galvanized steel lag bolts & washers ($26) -twelve 1/4″ x 8″ self drilling screws ($15.24) -two boxes of  2″ wood screws ($23.45) -ten 2′ x 8′ galvanized steel corrugated roof panels ($102.50) -one 10″ x  8′ galvanized steel roof top ($21.62) -one box of self tapping sheet metal screws ($5.78) -two door hinges ($4.05) -two door handles ($10.15) -one gallon of exterior paint & primer ($39.89) -one gallon of oil base exterior paint ($39.89) -one gallon of Cabot Clear Wood Protector ($31.99) -waterproof caulk ($3.74) -yard flags (optional)

Total $844.77

Tools: -post hole diggers -drill -compound miter saw -4′ level -ratchet with 1/2″ socket (for 5/8″ lag bolts) -5/8′ drill bit -tape measure -one 6′ ladder -pneumatic nail gun -jigsaw -paint brush

First, decide how big you want the base of your playhouse to be. Ours is 6′ x 8′. Measure out and mark the 4 corners of the playhouse in the grass with some yard flags and with your post hole diggers, dig a hole in each 4 corners about 1 1/2′ deep. Take a few of your 4″ x 4″ x 6′ pressure treated posts and cut them to your desired height you want the base to be and place them into the holes. Keep in mind each post you cut will be a different height, so in order to account for unevenness of the ground, you want the tops of each post to completely level with each other. Here is a pretty easy and foolproof way to make sure that happens … Start by placing one post in a hole and pouring in some concrete all around the base of that post. Add some water and mix with a stick. Make sure the post is completely level and wait about 20 minutes until it’s semi set and isn’t going to move on you. Repeat these steps for each post, making sure each post is level with the last one you already set in concrete.

Take your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards and cut them to make the frame, starting with the 4 outside boards. Fasten them with wood screws and then take your 5/8′ drill bit and pre-drill your holes for your lag bolts. Take your ratchet and your lag bolts and fasten them to all 4 posts. Next, take more of your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards and make a grid on the inside of the frame to support your plywood floor. There is no wrong way to do this, you can look at the first picture and see it is a little random. Take your 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ pressure treated plywood and lay them down on your base and fasten them with wood screws all along the sides. (I got our local hardware store to cut one of my pieces of plywood for me.)

Next, take your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards and cut the bottom ends to be flush with the ground and the tops to be flush with the center support beam with your miter saw. This will make the “A-Frame” part. I wish there was an exact way to teach how to cut these angles, but it is going to depend on the size of your playhouse. You will have to do some trial and error to figure out the exact degrees of these angles.  Use your 1/4″ x 8″ self drilling screws to fasten all of the boards to the base of the playhouse and to the top center beam ( 2″ x 6″ x 8′ board) as shown above. If your a-frame roof feels a bit wobbly or unstable, don’t worry, the next step will take care of that!

Take your 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards and cut them into 32 support pieces for in between each post of the a-frame roof. This will make your a-frame roof secure and sturdy and also creates supports for the metal roof panels you will add in a little bit. Take a few more of your 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards and frame out the front door. Our door is 2′ x 4′ but you can customize the size for your own. Next, take your 3/4″ x 12″ x 8′ boards and cut them for the front and back sides of the playhouse. The easiest way to make these angled cuts (at least for me anyway!) is to hold up one board at a time, making sure it’s level and then take a pencil and trace those angles and place it on your miter saw and match the angle of the blade to the pencil mark. Make sense? Good! I did this with each board starting from the bottom and worked my way up and used my pneumatic nailgun to fasten them to the frame.

The front door is pretty simple, above is all of the pieces laid out so you can see. I was able to buy this piece of plywood already cut to 2′ x 4′ which made it super easy. i just took my 1/2″ x 4″ x 6′ boards and cut them to fit as the trim. Glue or nail all of the pieces together.

Take your 2′ x 8′ galvanized steel corrugated roof panels and fasten them to the roof using your self taping metal screws. This part is pretty easy; simply lay the panels against the frame one at a time and screw them down, making sure they overlap about 2″ every panel. Once those are up you can grab your rooftop panel and lay it over the top and screw down the sides along both sides. You will have an open gap on the top either side of your roof panel, so what i did was take a small scrap piece of wood and hold it up to the gap and trace the shape. I then grabbed my jigsaw and cut out the funny shape so that it fit in the empty gap. Repeat this for the other side as well. Take your door and your hinges and install the door. To trace out the circle for the window, I traced out the desired size on a piece of cardboard first, cut it out and used that as a template to trace on the a-frame. Once I had it traced perfectly on the wood, I got a drill bit and drilled a pilot hole for my jigsaw blade to fit in and slowly cut out the circle. Repeat this on the opposite side of the playhouse.

NOTE: After almost a year of wear, our painted roof has held up poorly. Instead of painting your roof we recommend not painting it or buying metal that is already painted (must be intended for outdoor projects). This is our one and only regret/learning that we would do differently. 

Next, the porch! This is pretty similar to the base of the playhouse. Once you decide the design/size you want, dig some holes in the corners of the porch for your posts and set them in concrete the same way you did for the playhouse. Once the posts are all set, frame out the outside of the porch and then screw in cross braces in between to support the floor all with your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards. As you can see in the picture above, I attached some of the braces to the actual playhouse.

Once the porch is framed out, you’re ready for the floor pieces! Take your 3/4″ x 12″ boards and cut them to the correct length to fit onto the porch frame and screw them down with screws. Now if you’re planning on painting the wood on the a-frame, don’t forget to caulk any cracks first! If you’re leaving it natural, use your Cabot clear wood protector and brush it on to make it waterproof. Do this with the entire porch too!

This project is straight out of my dreams and I still can’t believe it’s real! Collin did such a beautiful job building it and making my sketches into a reality. I know it will be a magical part of Nova’s childhood!

We have so much fun playing in it together. She mainly cooks me noodles and coffee on repeat and I act extremely excited about them every single time. Life is beautiful!

If you have any questions, feel free to ask us in the comments! xx. Elsie

  Credits//Author: Elsie Larson and Collin DuPree. Photography: Amber Ulmer. Photos edited with A Color Story Desktop.

from RSSMix.com Mix ID 8265713 https://ift.tt/2KgYzsT via IFTTT

[yesterdaysdreams]

A-Frame Playhouse DIY

Alright guys!! Most requested blog DIY ever. Here we go! Time to show you how we built this a-frame playhouse!!! This playhouse sits right next to the mid-century playset (which has swings and a slide) and they make a really cute pair.

Here are few photos inside the a-frame before we jump into the DIY!

As some of you may remember, we built these during our wait to adopt Nova and it is one of the most gratifying and heart-filling things on this planet to finally spend our days playing in them.

Here are the DIY steps, supplies and the cost to build it:

Supplies: -eight 4″ x 4″ x 6′ pressure treated posts ($52.96) -four 50-lb bags of fast setting concrete ($21.84) -sixteen 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards ($63.52) -eight 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards ($29.76) -two 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ pressure treated plywood ($67.58) -eight 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards ($17.02) -one 2″ x 6″ x 8′ board ($6.02) -fourteen 3/4″ x 12″ x 8′ boards ($206) -one 1/2″ x 2′ x 4′ plywood ($13.67) -two 1/2″ x 4″ x 6′ boards ($8.34) -four 5/8″ x 4″ galvanized steel lag bolts & washers ($26) -twelve 1/4″ x 8″ self drilling screws ($15.24) -two boxes of  2″ wood screws ($23.45) -ten 2′ x 8′ galvanized steel corrugated roof panels ($102.50) -one 10″ x  8′ galvanized steel roof top ($21.62) -one box of self tapping sheet metal screws ($5.78) -two door hinges ($4.05) -two door handles ($10.15) -one gallon of exterior paint & primer ($39.89) -one gallon of oil base exterior paint ($39.89) -one gallon of Cabot Clear Wood Protector ($31.99) -waterproof caulk ($3.74) -yard flags (optional)

Total $844.77

Tools: -post hole diggers -drill -compound miter saw -4′ level -ratchet with 1/2″ socket (for 5/8″ lag bolts) -5/8′ drill bit -tape measure -one 6′ ladder -pneumatic nail gun -jigsaw -paint brush

First, decide how big you want the base of your playhouse to be. Ours is 6′ x 8′. Measure out and mark the 4 corners of the playhouse in the grass with some yard flags and with your post hole diggers, dig a hole in each 4 corners about 1 1/2′ deep. Take a few of your 4″ x 4″ x 6′ pressure treated posts and cut them to your desired height you want the base to be and place them into the holes. Keep in mind each post you cut will be a different height, so in order to account for unevenness of the ground, you want the tops of each post to completely level with each other. Here is a pretty easy and foolproof way to make sure that happens … Start by placing one post in a hole and pouring in some concrete all around the base of that post. Add some water and mix with a stick. Make sure the post is completely level and wait about 20 minutes until it’s semi set and isn’t going to move on you. Repeat these steps for each post, making sure each post is level with the last one you already set in concrete.

Take your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards and cut them to make the frame, starting with the 4 outside boards. Fasten them with wood screws and then take your 5/8′ drill bit and pre-drill your holes for your lag bolts. Take your ratchet and your lag bolts and fasten them to all 4 posts. Next, take more of your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards and make a grid on the inside of the frame to support your plywood floor. There is no wrong way to do this, you can look at the first picture and see it is a little random. Take your 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ pressure treated plywood and lay them down on your base and fasten them with wood screws all along the sides. (I got our local hardware store to cut one of my pieces of plywood for me.)

Next, take your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards and cut the bottom ends to be flush with the ground and the tops to be flush with the center support beam with your miter saw. This will make the “A-Frame” part. I wish there was an exact way to teach how to cut these angles, but it is going to depend on the size of your playhouse. You will have to do some trial and error to figure out the exact degrees of these angles.  Use your 1/4″ x 8″ self drilling screws to fasten all of the boards to the base of the playhouse and to the top center beam ( 2″ x 6″ x 8′ board) as shown above. If your a-frame roof feels a bit wobbly or unstable, don’t worry, the next step will take care of that!

Take your 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards and cut them into 32 support pieces for in between each post of the a-frame roof. This will make your a-frame roof secure and sturdy and also creates supports for the metal roof panels you will add in a little bit. Take a few more of your 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards and frame out the front door. Our door is 2′ x 4′ but you can customize the size for your own. Next, take your 3/4″ x 12″ x 8′ boards and cut them for the front and back sides of the playhouse. The easiest way to make these angled cuts (at least for me anyway!) is to hold up one board at a time, making sure it’s level and then take a pencil and trace those angles and place it on your miter saw and match the angle of the blade to the pencil mark. Make sense? Good! I did this with each board starting from the bottom and worked my way up and used my pneumatic nailgun to fasten them to the frame.

The front door is pretty simple, above is all of the pieces laid out so you can see. I was able to buy this piece of plywood already cut to 2′ x 4′ which made it super easy. i just took my 1/2″ x 4″ x 6′ boards and cut them to fit as the trim. Glue or nail all of the pieces together.

Take your 2′ x 8′ galvanized steel corrugated roof panels and fasten them to the roof using your self taping metal screws. This part is pretty easy; simply lay the panels against the frame one at a time and screw them down, making sure they overlap about 2″ every panel. Once those are up you can grab your rooftop panel and lay it over the top and screw down the sides along both sides. You will have an open gap on the top either side of your roof panel, so what i did was take a small scrap piece of wood and hold it up to the gap and trace the shape. I then grabbed my jigsaw and cut out the funny shape so that it fit in the empty gap. Repeat this for the other side as well. Take your door and your hinges and install the door. To trace out the circle for the window, I traced out the desired size on a piece of cardboard first, cut it out and used that as a template to trace on the a-frame. Once I had it traced perfectly on the wood, I got a drill bit and drilled a pilot hole for my jigsaw blade to fit in and slowly cut out the circle. Repeat this on the opposite side of the playhouse.

NOTE: After almost a year of wear, our painted roof has held up poorly. Instead of painting your roof we recommend not painting it or buying metal that is already painted (must be intended for outdoor projects). This is our one and only regret/learning that we would do differently. 

Next, the porch! This is pretty similar to the base of the playhouse. Once you decide the design/size you want, dig some holes in the corners of the porch for your posts and set them in concrete the same way you did for the playhouse. Once the posts are all set, frame out the outside of the porch and then screw in cross braces in between to support the floor all with your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards. As you can see in the picture above, I attached some of the braces to the actual playhouse.

Once the porch is framed out, you’re ready for the floor pieces! Take your 3/4″ x 12″ boards and cut them to the correct length to fit onto the porch frame and screw them down with screws. Now if you’re planning on painting the wood on the a-frame, don’t forget to caulk any cracks first! If you’re leaving it natural, use your Cabot clear wood protector and brush it on to make it waterproof. Do this with the entire porch too!

This project is straight out of my dreams and I still can’t believe it’s real! Collin did such a beautiful job building it and making my sketches into a reality. I know it will be a magical part of Nova’s childhood!

We have so much fun playing in it together. She mainly cooks me noodles and coffee on repeat and I act extremely excited about them every single time. Life is beautiful!

If you have any questions, feel free to ask us in the comments! xx. Elsie

  Credits//Author: Elsie Larson and Collin DuPree. Photography: Amber Ulmer. Photos edited with A Color Story Desktop.

from RSSMix.com Mix ID 8265713 https://ift.tt/2KgYzsT via IFTTT

[yesterdaysdreams]

A-Frame Playhouse DIY

Alright guys!! Most requested blog DIY ever. Here we go! Time to show you how we built this a-frame playhouse!!! This playhouse sits right next to the mid-century playset (which has swings and a slide) and they make a really cute pair.

Here are few photos inside the a-frame before we jump into the DIY!

As some of you may remember, we built these during our wait to adopt Nova and it is one of the most gratifying and heart-filling things on this planet to finally spend our days playing in them.

Here are the DIY steps, supplies and the cost to build it:

Supplies: -eight 4″ x 4″ x 6′ pressure treated posts ($52.96) -four 50-lb bags of fast setting concrete ($21.84) -sixteen 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards ($63.52) -eight 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards ($29.76) -two 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ pressure treated plywood ($67.58) -eight 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards ($17.02) -one 2″ x 6″ x 8′ board ($6.02) -fourteen 3/4″ x 12″ x 8′ boards ($206) -one 1/2″ x 2′ x 4′ plywood ($13.67) -two 1/2″ x 4″ x 6′ boards ($8.34) -four 5/8″ x 4″ galvanized steel lag bolts & washers ($26) -twelve 1/4″ x 8″ self drilling screws ($15.24) -two boxes of  2″ wood screws ($23.45) -ten 2′ x 8′ galvanized steel corrugated roof panels ($102.50) -one 10″ x  8′ galvanized steel roof top ($21.62) -one box of self tapping sheet metal screws ($5.78) -two door hinges ($4.05) -two door handles ($10.15) -one gallon of exterior paint & primer ($39.89) -one gallon of oil base exterior paint ($39.89) -one gallon of Cabot Clear Wood Protector ($31.99) -waterproof caulk ($3.74) -yard flags (optional)

Total $844.77

Tools: -post hole diggers -drill -compound miter saw -4′ level -ratchet with 1/2″ socket (for 5/8″ lag bolts) -5/8′ drill bit -tape measure -one 6′ ladder -pneumatic nail gun -jigsaw -paint brush

First, decide how big you want the base of your playhouse to be. Ours is 6′ x 8′. Measure out and mark the 4 corners of the playhouse in the grass with some yard flags and with your post hole diggers, dig a hole in each 4 corners about 1 1/2′ deep. Take a few of your 4″ x 4″ x 6′ pressure treated posts and cut them to your desired height you want the base to be and place them into the holes. Keep in mind each post you cut will be a different height, so in order to account for unevenness of the ground, you want the tops of each post to completely level with each other. Here is a pretty easy and foolproof way to make sure that happens … Start by placing one post in a hole and pouring in some concrete all around the base of that post. Add some water and mix with a stick. Make sure the post is completely level and wait about 20 minutes until it’s semi set and isn’t going to move on you. Repeat these steps for each post, making sure each post is level with the last one you already set in concrete.

Take your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards and cut them to make the frame, starting with the 4 outside boards. Fasten them with wood screws and then take your 5/8′ drill bit and pre-drill your holes for your lag bolts. Take your ratchet and your lag bolts and fasten them to all 4 posts. Next, take more of your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards and make a grid on the inside of the frame to support your plywood floor. There is no wrong way to do this, you can look at the first picture and see it is a little random. Take your 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ pressure treated plywood and lay them down on your base and fasten them with wood screws all along the sides. (I got our local hardware store to cut one of my pieces of plywood for me.)

Next, take your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards and cut the bottom ends to be flush with the ground and the tops to be flush with the center support beam with your miter saw. This will make the “A-Frame” part. I wish there was an exact way to teach how to cut these angles, but it is going to depend on the size of your playhouse. You will have to do some trial and error to figure out the exact degrees of these angles.  Use your 1/4″ x 8″ self drilling screws to fasten all of the boards to the base of the playhouse and to the top center beam ( 2″ x 6″ x 8′ board) as shown above. If your a-frame roof feels a bit wobbly or unstable, don’t worry, the next step will take care of that!

Take your 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards and cut them into 32 support pieces for in between each post of the a-frame roof. This will make your a-frame roof secure and sturdy and also creates supports for the metal roof panels you will add in a little bit. Take a few more of your 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards and frame out the front door. Our door is 2′ x 4′ but you can customize the size for your own. Next, take your 3/4″ x 12″ x 8′ boards and cut them for the front and back sides of the playhouse. The easiest way to make these angled cuts (at least for me anyway!) is to hold up one board at a time, making sure it’s level and then take a pencil and trace those angles and place it on your miter saw and match the angle of the blade to the pencil mark. Make sense? Good! I did this with each board starting from the bottom and worked my way up and used my pneumatic nailgun to fasten them to the frame.

The front door is pretty simple, above is all of the pieces laid out so you can see. I was able to buy this piece of plywood already cut to 2′ x 4′ which made it super easy. i just took my 1/2″ x 4″ x 6′ boards and cut them to fit as the trim. Glue or nail all of the pieces together.

Take your 2′ x 8′ galvanized steel corrugated roof panels and fasten them to the roof using your self taping metal screws. This part is pretty easy; simply lay the panels against the frame one at a time and screw them down, making sure they overlap about 2″ every panel. Once those are up you can grab your rooftop panel and lay it over the top and screw down the sides along both sides. You will have an open gap on the top either side of your roof panel, so what i did was take a small scrap piece of wood and hold it up to the gap and trace the shape. I then grabbed my jigsaw and cut out the funny shape so that it fit in the empty gap. Repeat this for the other side as well. Take your door and your hinges and install the door. To trace out the circle for the window, I traced out the desired size on a piece of cardboard first, cut it out and used that as a template to trace on the a-frame. Once I had it traced perfectly on the wood, I got a drill bit and drilled a pilot hole for my jigsaw blade to fit in and slowly cut out the circle. Repeat this on the opposite side of the playhouse.

NOTE: After almost a year of wear, our painted roof has held up poorly. Instead of painting your roof we recommend not painting it or buying metal that is already painted (must be intended for outdoor projects). This is our one and only regret/learning that we would do differently. 

Next, the porch! This is pretty similar to the base of the playhouse. Once you decide the design/size you want, dig some holes in the corners of the porch for your posts and set them in concrete the same way you did for the playhouse. Once the posts are all set, frame out the outside of the porch and then screw in cross braces in between to support the floor all with your 2″ x 4″ x 8′ pressure treated boards. As you can see in the picture above, I attached some of the braces to the actual playhouse.

Once the porch is framed out, you’re ready for the floor pieces! Take your 3/4″ x 12″ boards and cut them to the correct length to fit onto the porch frame and screw them down with screws. Now if you’re planning on painting the wood on the a-frame, don’t forget to caulk any cracks first! If you’re leaving it natural, use your Cabot clear wood protector and brush it on to make it waterproof. Do this with the entire porch too!

This project is straight out of my dreams and I still can’t believe it’s real! Collin did such a beautiful job building it and making my sketches into a reality. I know it will be a magical part of Nova’s childhood!

We have so much fun playing in it together. She mainly cooks me noodles and coffee on repeat and I act extremely excited about them every single time. Life is beautiful!

If you have any questions, feel free to ask us in the comments! xx. Elsie

  Credits//Author: Elsie Larson and Collin DuPree. Photography: Amber Ulmer. Photos edited with A Color Story Desktop.

from RSSMix.com Mix ID 8265713 https://ift.tt/2KgYzsT via IFTTT