#1 rubber washers

[imtwoburdsbitch]

This is my setup so far!

Things might change in the future but so far, I’m pretty happy with it!

Before anyone says anything I know a lot of the items I got were a bit extra and that cheaper alternatives are available but, this is one “big” tax splurge/birthday present!

I'm going to do my best to keep this up to date as things develop!

Cage/Perches

C&C Outdoor Large Cat Cage Enclosure - 4/5

So far I love this cage! With the set up pictured above, I actually ended up with extra panels to expand further in the future.

This cage offers a lot of versatility and would be great for odd shaped spaces or tight spaces that might require a little bit more creativity!

As far as durability goes, I would say that is pretty average for a C&C cage. With that being said... USE THE ZIP TIES! Or invest in additional wire cage supports or else the first time you move it... it will fall apart!

Pros

Weight - Light weight, easy to move and and tare down!

Price Point - Affordable and way cheaper than traditional bird cages of the same size!

Versatility/Customization - This is a build your own cage set! You can go wild and pretty much do whatever you want!

Add-ons - Because this is a C&C cage there are a lot of options for expansions and a lot of add-ons (ramps, doors, patios, etc) that can be bough!

Cons

Durability - So long as your using extra supports the durability isn't an issues. Without the supports... this is going to fall apart the first time you move it!

Bar Spacing - The bar spacing on this is large! 1.65" (4.1 cm). Because of the bar spacing your going to need to get a 2" Fender Washer in order to attach most standard bird accessories. An easy fix but something to be aware of!

Cleaning - Because this cages relies on joints there are plastic pieces that jut into the cage and run the risk of being pooped on. If they are pooped on... You will have to take apart a large chunk of the cage and remove the joint to clean it... It's a pain in the ass.

Corrugated Plastic Cage Liner Base 3/5

This works just as intended! It keeps what it needs to in and what it needs to out! It can be laid flat, and folded for storage if need be.

Pros

It works! Keeps poop and seed inside!

Cleaning - Easy to wipe down and poop doesn't seem to stick to the surface! Water and weatherproof is also a plus!

Cons

Price Point - I, admittedly, did not do my research before purchasing this base! This could have easily been made for about half the price from a local hardware or craft store with a sheet of Corrugated Plastic and either some hot glue or, if I wanted to get fancy, some Plastic Chicago Screws.

Cleaning - While the outside is easy enough to clean, corrugated plastic is hallow-ish on the insides and is IMPOSSIBLE to clean! To avoid dust build up you can use a length Rubber Edge Trim along the top! Make sure you check the with of your Corrugated Plastic before buying any trim.

Perch 4/5

It's a perch, it do what it do. Nothing super exciting.

Pros

It works as intended!

Cons

The shorter perch was NOT pink, lol. Not important to most people but it is important to notes that its defiantly more orange.

Lining/Hammock - 5/5 (I'm bias because I made them, lol!

The lining is simply two pieces of Anti-Pill Plush Fleece sewn to size! Anit-pill fleece is stain resistant, easy to clean and soft to the touch!

Pros

Price Point - Much cheaper then pre-made linings!

Reusable - Simply wash and reuse! No reoccurring monthly expense for something like puppy pads!

Customizable - Make them any color or all the colors!

Easy to Make - For real! Sewing a full bottom lining takes me about 30 mins from start to finish! If sewing isn't your think you could do it tie blanket style or simply cut a piece of fabric to size and call it good!

Food/Water

3 in 1 Cat Bowl - 5/5

I love this this feeder! Not only is it super cute but, it allows you to lock the bowls in place, preventing them form moving. The angled sides of the bowl also really help to keep seed where it should be! This is super easy to clean and the fact that it has two bowls and a gravity feed water dispenser makes it perfect for pigeons!

Pros

One stop shop - because of the two bowls and the separate water dish this works great for offering see, grit and water all separate!

Bowl Position - This feeder has a star shaped grid in the bottom that allows you to change the position of the bowls. This allows you to turn the bowl so the raised edge is facing the water dish preventing water from getting into your grit and feed!

Cons

Seeds under bowl - Because the bottom of the bowl holder is open if there are seeds under it the bowl becomes difficult to lock into place. Not a big deal but it can be annoying to deal with!

Water riser - The water dish has a white, circle riser that is open in the center. It's not a huge deal, Mango got use to it after his second attempt, and it's totally removable!

Toys/Enrichment

I'll make this part short and sweet, lol!

Mango doesn't care at all about anything but his Brick. Bitches love bricks.

10 PC Cat Toy set

Mirror

Doughnut Dog Toy

Cake Foraging Toy

Snuffle Mat

Brick

Nesting Pink Bed

Crinkle Paper

Paper Straws

Hay Feeder

[penhero]

This is a c. 1923-1929 silver eyedropper fountain pen with hand engraved double peony (botan 牡丹) panels. The base of the cap and the barrel are both marked SILVER. The look of the pen is obviously inspired by the Parker Jack Knife Safety with the same basic cap and barrel shape, similar washer clip, and similar hard rubber cap top and barrel end. The clip is stamped POCKET CLIP on the face and 18K for 18 karat gold plate at the top. The cap band is stamped K14 for 14 karat gold plate. The gold nib is stamped WARRANTED over 14K over RT in a hexagon over 9. It’s 5 1/16 inches long capped. It's an eyedropper filler with an ink shut off valve. The hard rubber barrel end cap is stamped with three patent numbers, 64039, 67423, and 126473.

Read the story about this interesting pen here:

[exteriorcleaningsblog]

The Ultimate Guide To Exterior House Cleaning

Your home is not just a place to live, but also a reflection of your personality and style. Keeping the exterior of your house clean and well-maintained not only enhances its curb appeal but also protects it from potential damage caused by dirt, grime, mold, mildew, and other environmental elements. Whether you are a seasoned homeowner or a first-time buyer, this comprehensive guide will provide you with expert tips and tricks to help you effectively clean the exterior of your house and restore its beauty. we have got you covered with all the essential information you need to transform your home into a spotless and inviting abode. So, put on your cleaning gear and let's dive into The Ultimate Guide to Exterior House Cleaning!

1. Assess Your Home’s Exterior

Examining the exterior of your property is the first step in exterior house cleaning. Look for any damage indications while taking a tour around your home, such as holes, cracks, peeling paint, and missing shingles. Before you begin cleaning, this will assist you in determining the areas that require repairs.

2. Gather Your Cleaning Tools and Supplies

It's time to gather your cleaning supplies and tools after you've evaluated the exterior of your property. In order to:

A spray-equipped garden hose or pressure washer

A ladder

A bucket

A soft-bristled brush

A scrub brush

A cleaning solution (e.g., mild detergent, bleach, vinegar, or commercial cleaner)

Safety goggles

Rubber gloves

Protective clothing

Start with a Pre-Rinse

Give your home a thorough pre-rinse before you start cleaning. By doing this, you can assist clear the surface of any loose dirt, dust, or debris. If you have a pressure washer, use it to clean your house by setting it to the lowest pressure. If you don't have a pressure washer, you should thoroughly rinse your property with a garden hose fitted with spray tips.

3. Clean Your Gutters

The exterior of your property must include gutters because they drain rainwater away from the foundation. They can, however, easily fill up with leaves, twigs, and other detritus. With a scoop or your hands, remove any loose material from your gutters before beginning to clean them. After that, flush any leftover debris out using a garden hose. Finally, check your gutters for any indications of deterioration, such as rust or holes, and make any necessary repairs.

4. Wash Your Siding

It's time to wash your siding next. If you have a pressure washer, turn it on to the right pressure level for the type of siding you have and wash your siding thoroughly. If you don't have a pressure washer, clean your siding with a soft-bristled brush and cleaning solution. Work your way down starting at the top and in little sections. Before moving on to the following stage, give each one a good rinse.

5. Clean Your Windows

The exterior of your property might look significantly better with clean windows. Start by cleaning any loose dirt or debris from your windows with a soft-bristled brush or a microfiber cloth. Then, use a squeegee or a microfiber cloth to remove the solution and dry the windows after spraying your windows with a proper Window Cleaning Nanaimo. In order to prevent streaking, move rapidly.

6. Remove Stains and Mildew

Mildew and stains can harm the exterior of your property and be ugly. Use a cleaning solution made especially for the stain or mildew you're dealing with to get rid of them. For instance, you can get rid of mildew by mixing bleach and water, or you can get rid of rust stains by using a rust remover. When the damaged area has been treated with the solution, rinse it off with a garden hose or pressure washer after letting it sit for a few minutes.

7. Clean Your Driveway and Walkways

Your home's exterior also must include your driveway and pathways. With a broom or a leaf blower, remove any loose debris before beginning to clean them. Then, wash away any filth, grime, or stains with a Pressure House Washing Services or a garden hose with a spray pump. Use a cleaning solution and a scrub brush to get rid of any tough stains you find. Apply a sealer as a last step to shield your driveway and walkways from further harm.

8. Trim Your Trees and Shrubs

Trees and shrubs that are out of control not only make your property look untidy, but they can also harm the exterior of your home. Your roof, siding, or windows may get scratched or possibly sustain structural damage if overhanging branches come into contact with them. Maintaining regular tree and shrub trimming will help to avoid this. As a result, your home's exterior will look better and be more protected from harm.

9. Hire a Professional

Cleaning Home Exterior can be difficult and time-consuming, especially if it's a big or complicated house. If you don't have the time, expertise, or tools to handle it yourself, think about hiring a cleaning service. They have the skills, knowledge, and equipment needed to safely and successfully clean the exterior of your house. Additionally, they can help you save time and worry so you can concentrate on other crucial responsibilities.

Conclusion:

Exterior House Cleaning is a crucial aspect of property upkeep that shouldn't be ignored. Regular exterior home upkeep and cleaning can assist to reduce the risk of weather-related damage, boost curb appeal, and raise the value of your property. In addition to advice for efficiency and safety, this comprehensive guide has given an overview of the many techniques and equipment that can be used to clean various kinds of outside surfaces. You can make sure your home looks fantastic and stays in top condition for years to come by adhering to these recommendations and creating a regular cleaning schedule.

[lazeecomet]

I think i've figured out what my job is now.

i've been at this place for a little over a month and i've got a OK grasp for whats going on. All the other engineers have got one or two big projects that they have been working on for several weeks: large redesigns for existing machines and such.

that is not what im working on. As i am so new, im doing small projects. database is missing pictures. a weld print is bad/ambiguous. a dimension is not called out. A SOP is needed. my 1 bigger project is trying to find a way to fit an airline though a very narrow space, which has been "where in the fuck can i drill a hole and not fuck it up"

what made me see my roll was when someone came up from the floor with a set of prints with red pen on it complaining that they have to modify every part to fit. my boss took it, thanked them, and before they had even made it out the door shouted over to me "hey Lazyeecomet. New project for you. its on the board"

Im the guy they put onto the small low risk projects that need a competent engineer to do them, but they dont want to take away the time from the REAL talent

Example: the plexiglass window kept cracking during install. my job: figure out why the OTHER, smaller plexiglass window does not break and do that for the big one

the small one has rubber washers on it. we cant use them because the screw is smaller. i found the bigger washer on McMaster. i updated the CAD model to include the washer. i made the screw longer so it would work. i ran the prints off for the new part. i told the installers to USE the washer

the installer broke the window anyways. i checked the machine and the metal frame was warped so it was never the bolt head cracking it. it was the bending the entire time. i tell my boss that the frame is so far out of alignment we could fit a washer on the back and be flush and that we should probably have some kind of gasket on the back to fill in the space

he says to put the washers on both sides. i grab longer screws, plonk them down with the installers and tell them the washers go on both sides now, tomorrow i update the CAD and prints again.

but you know what? the day passes really quickly and im learning a lot. with time i may get some bigger projects.

[sharonnassimos]

FRAMING THE BODY:

1. Wood

2. Rope

3. Glue

4. Sticks

5. Fabric

6. Light

7. Plexiglass

8. Styrofoam

9. Cloth

10. Board

11. Chain

12. Wire

13. Aluminum

14. Rubber

15. Plastic

16. Metal

17. Sheets

18. Screws

19. Drills

20. Nuts

21. Washers

22. Cord

23. Twine

24. Yarn

25. Strings

26. Springs

27. L brackets

28. Rubber bands

29. Mirror

30. Glass

[awesome-casuallyfamouscollector]

Customer States The Car They Recently Bought Does Not Start

Just Rolled In

0:00 Intro 0:05 "I actually gave a bunch of it to my BG guy to send to their lab for testing and apparently the lab had lost the sample. I suspect the oil was contaminated with something." The technician also mentioned that the customer ended up just scrapping/getting rid of the vehicle as it had a lot of miles on it. 0:25 When the customer installed the LED rock lights using screws, he screwed one underneath the washer fluid reservoir causing it to leak out washer fluid. 0:37 The customer had both rubber pieces/grommets installed on top of the shock when they installed new front shocks. One washer and rubber piece/grommet are supposed to be underneath, and one on top. So when you tighten the nut, it'll hold it in place in the shock tower. 0:44 Belt was incorrectly installed which will cause the water pump to rotate backward. The ribbed part of a serpentine belt should never be directly on a smooth surface of a pulley. 0:56 The technician was never informed on who/what shop installed the new transmission. 1:13 As mentioned the technician thinks that the customer had left the plastic wrap on the fuel pump when they installed it. The technician diagnosed it and just thought it was a bad fuel pump so he removed the old one and found this. 1:26 All of the front-end components on this Astro Van were worn and needed to be replaced. The technician didn't say what the customer ended up doing in regard to their vehicle. 1:38 The customer did not purchase new tires but the technician found a dove behind the front bumper which made his day! He grabbed it and brought it outside. 1:50 The customer's father had screwed screws into the fuel tank when he "repaired" the exhaust. 1:56 Which one do you think it sounds like? 2:12 It needed a valve cover gasket and new plugs/wires. Since it has quite the custom start procedure on this Ford Focus, it's most likely that the customer will install the parts themselves. 2:28 The technician said he could not believe that they wanted that piece of garbage removed. 2:38 No extra info. 2:52 The vehicle has not been back yet to his shop. 3:02 This clip was sent in by a viewer. They didn't mention more information about their vehicle. 3:11 Outro. Thanks for watching!(..)

P.S. What's scarier than knowing that those ICE vehicles are on the road or  knowing that the owners are behind the wheel!? It's good that there are technical inspections in Europe and part of such junk is no longer allowed on the road...

[letsedensmith]

Ten Essential Tips for Cleaning and Maintenance the Washing Machine

Most of us are dependent on our washing machines for the tedious task of washing our clothes. From ordinary clothes such as t-shirts, tops and trousers to heavier clothes such as towers, sheets and curtains, these machines have made our lives easier and better. So it makes sense to operate those machines in good condition.

Regular maintenance of the washing machine is very helpful in helping these machines last for years to come. The truth is that you and your family can do most of those things at home.

Ten Tips on How to Maintain Your Washing Machine

Here are some maintenance tips for washing machines that will help you take better care of your device.

1) Deep Cleaning

People expect their washing machines to give 100 per cent each time. However, it does not always happen. Problems with washing machines occur and devices begin to lose their effectiveness after some time. You may notice that your clothes don't look as clean as when they were new. The main reason behind this is the scaling that occurs because of the micro residuals present in the water. This can be a major problem in regions where the water is hard. In this scenario, you should thoroughly clean your machine a little more. Use a sturdy machine cleaner that is capable of removing all scales without damaging the metallic and plastic parts of the appliance. This does not necessarily mean that you have to buy the most expensive machine cleaner on the market, but buying the cheapest one is not recommended.

2) Clean the Rubber Gasket

It is an important part of your machine that suffers greatly from wear and tear. The rubber seal wraps around the edges of the washer-dryer and protects your garments from damage and your hands from sharp edges. Whether it's a front load or a top-load machine, a certain amount of dust particles get in whenever you open the door. These dust particles generally collect around the edges and sides of the joint. Detergent and softener particulates also leave residue on the joint. Being located outside the bathtub, it suffers from regular discharges, but remains impure that we tend to ignore it completely. This is another reason why you must regularly clean the rubber seal with a moist cloth. Once a week should be sufficient.

3) Protect the Finish

New and clean appliances improve your home's look. However, an old washing machine generally does not look good and can even alter the appearance of the bedroom or home. Some people ignore this aspect and do not worry about cleaning the exterior or top of the machine. It is the front-load washing machines which suffer the most. Their smooth upper surface makes them a magnet for matching things that never ceases to accumulate upon them. People forget that despite their cumbersome equipment, washing machines are delicate and require appropriate care, both in terms of work ability and look. The tips for keeping the machine in search of new ones are simple.

Clean the top and sides of your machine with a glass cleaner to protect the finish. Maintaining the pre-installed factory finish is the best way to keep your machine bright and airy for a long time. Also, keep the machine covered when it is not used and do not put heavy equipment on top. It will stop the scratches from developing.

4) Protect from Spillage

Washing machines also collect waste from detergent spills. In spite of your efforts to use the best detergents or softeners on the market, their residues become sticky over time and begin to smell bad. The best way to clean this sticky residue is to wipe it with a gentle dish cleaner. Also, be sure to clean the inside of the drum with a damp cloth as it also builds up lint, detergent and dirt residue over time.

5) Leave the Door Open

Do not shut your washing machine's door immediately after use. This is one of the biggest mistakes that most people do while using the machine. They think keeping the door open is going to cause dirt and dust in the machine. This is true to a certain extent, but it does not mean that you should close it immediately. Keeping the door open for 15 to 30 minutes removes moisture and prevents mild and bacteria from accumulating in your machine. It also properly dries the tub and protects the delicate parts against moisture damage. A good way to ensure the inside has no moisture is to wipe it off with a thick dry towel 15-30 minutes after the washing has ended and the leftover moisture has dried somewhat.

6) Clean the Detergent and Fabric Softener Dispensers

Automatic washing machines are equipped with separate receptacles for detergents and fabric softeners. These machines automatically mix these materials with water and pour them into the tub. This is quite a clean process as you don't have to wait for the detergent to mix in the water and then put on the clothes. However, the extended use of these containers without proper cleaning makes it a haven for bacteria and concentrated toxic elements. It builds a transparent and sometimes green texture which feels dirty to the touch. Imagine that your garments are washed in the extract of this accumulation of harmful bacteria. This will contaminate your machine and will also affect the cleanup quality. To get rid of these problems, you should clean the dispensers periodically.

7) Keep Checking the Hoses

For fluid water flow inside and outside your machine, you need to keep an eye on the machine's pipes. Both semi-automatic and automatic washing machines have three tubes, two of which are entrances and one is an exit. Ensure that the entrances are properly connected to the water source and that there are no cracks or leaks. This will also prevent water from being wasted. Also, be sure to check the status of the outlet or drain pipe from time to time. Since it removes dirty water, lint and micro particles of tissue often build up in the drain filter and block the pipe. If something goes wrong, try unlocking it with an expert technician or completely replace the drain with a new one.

8) Clean the Filter

Semi-automatic washing machines are equipped with a lint filter inside the washing tube. This filter extracts lint and other dirt particles from the washing process and gathers them into a bag. It should also be cleaned from time to time. This is because once the filter is full, it cannot collect any debris that will remain in the water. These pieces will get stuck on your clothes and accumulate in the machine as well. This, in turn, will reduce your machine's lifetime and adversely affect its performance. In extreme cases, it may also significantly damage the plaster or stirrer. You had no idea such a small thing would cost you that much, did you? Begin cleaning your filter at least once per month.

9) Use It Carefully

Your washing machine can have high washing ability and a powerful motor, but it is always a delicate piece of equipment. It requires careful operation and proper care. Clothes must not be put into the machine. It is not about your travel bag where you can fill more things than its ability. Placing more than the suggested amount of clothing means that the machine will not turn properly and this will affect the circular movement of the drum. You'll get stuck in partially cleaned clothes. Additionally, it may damage your machine's motor as well. Do you want to operate your machine at full capacity?Put the clothes according to their weight ability and follow the instructions provided in the manual. If you have any doubts, contact your brand's customer support.

10) Choose the Right Detergent

Choosing a good washing machine detergent is dependent on your budget and your specific needs. Some people prefer to use machine-specific detergents whereas others use regular detergents. The point to remember is that the detergent you use must not be too harsh or heavily alkaline in nature, as this will damage both the machine parts and your clothes. Then choose the proper detergent.

Book washing machine repair near you in mumbai at best prices.

[sphilipsandrew]

Exploring the Versatility of Hoses in Industrial and Domestic Applications

Hoses are indispensable components in both industrial and domestic settings, offering flexibility, strength, and durability for a wide range of applications in drainage pipes and fittings. From garden hoses used at home to high-pressure industrial hoses used in manufacturing, the versatility of hoses makes them essential tools in various sectors. This article explores the different types of hoses, their applications, and the benefits they offer.

Types of Hoses

1. Garden Hoses

- Material: Typically made from vinyl, rubber, or a combination of both.

- Applications: Used for watering plants, cleaning outdoor areas, and filling pools with the foot valve.

- Benefits: Lightweight, flexible, and easy to store. Rubber hoses are more durable and resistant to kinks and abrasions compared to vinyl.

2. Industrial Hoses

- Material: Made from a variety of materials including rubber, PVC, polyurethane, and hybrid compounds.

- Applications: Used in manufacturing, construction, and transportation for tasks such as conveying air, water, chemicals, and bulk materials.

- Benefits: High durability, resistance to harsh chemicals, and the ability to withstand extreme temperatures and pressures.

3. Air Hoses

- Material: Made from rubber, PVC, or polyurethane.

- Applications: Used to convey compressed air in pneumatic tools, paint sprayers, and HVAC systems.

- Benefits: Flexible, lightweight, and designed to handle high pressure.

4. Hydraulic Hoses

- Material: Typically made from synthetic rubber and reinforced with layers of braided steel wire.

- Applications: Used in hydraulic systems to transmit fluid power in machinery, automotive systems, and heavy equipment.

- Benefits: High strength, flexibility, and the ability to handle high-pressure fluids.

5. Chemical Hoses

- Material: Made from materials resistant to corrosive chemicals, such as PTFE (Teflon), EPDM, or UHMWPE.

- Applications: Used in chemical plants, laboratories, and industries dealing with hazardous materials.

- Benefits: Resistance to a wide range of chemicals, high flexibility, and durability.

6. Food-Grade Hoses

- Material: Made from non-toxic materials like silicone or PVC and compliant with FDA standards.

- Applications: Used in food and beverage industries for transferring consumable liquids and solids.

- Benefits: Safe for food contact, flexible, and easy to clean.

Applications of Hoses

1. Domestic Applications

- Watering and Irrigation: Garden hoses are essential for maintaining gardens, lawns, and landscapes.

- Cleaning: Hoses are used in pressure washers for cleaning driveways, patios, and vehicles.

- Plumbing: Flexible hoses are used for connections in sinks, toilets, and washing machines.

2. Industrial Applications

- Manufacturing: Industrial hoses are used to transport air, water, and chemicals in manufacturing processes.

- Construction: Hoses are used in pneumatic tools, water delivery systems, and concrete pumping.

- Agriculture: Hoses are crucial for irrigation systems, chemical spraying, and transferring agricultural products.

3. Automotive Applications

- Fuel Systems: Hoses are used to transfer fuel from tanks to engines.

- Cooling Systems: Radiator hoses are essential for circulating coolant to maintain engine temperature.

- Brake Systems: Hydraulic hoses transmit brake fluid in vehicle braking systems.

4. Healthcare Applications

- Medical Devices: Hoses are used in various medical devices, such as oxygen delivery systems and fluid transfer in IV lines.

- Laboratories: Chemical-resistant hoses are used for transferring reagents and samples.

Benefits of Using Hoses

1. Flexibility

- Hoses offer excellent flexibility, allowing them to be used in various configurations and tight spaces. This is especially important in applications where rigid pipes would be impractical.

2. Durability

- Modern hoses are designed to withstand harsh conditions, including high pressure, extreme temperatures, and exposure to chemicals. This durability ensures long service life and reliability.

3. Versatility

- Hoses are available in a wide range of materials and designs, making them suitable for a multitude of applications, from simple garden watering to complex industrial processes.

4. Ease of Installation

- Hoses are relatively easy to install and replace compared to rigid piping systems. This ease of installation reduces downtime and maintenance costs.

5. Cost-Effectiveness

- Hoses can be a more cost-effective solution than rigid pipes, especially in applications requiring flexibility and frequent reconfiguration.

6. Safety

- In many applications, hoses provide a safer alternative to rigid piping, especially in systems dealing with high pressure or hazardous materials. Flexible hoses can absorb vibrations and movements, reducing the risk of leaks and failures.

Hoses are versatile and essential components in both industrial and domestic settings. Their flexibility, durability, and adaptability make them ideal for a wide range of applications, from watering gardens to transporting chemicals in manufacturing plants. Understanding the different types of hoses and their specific benefits helps in selecting the right hose for each application, ensuring efficiency, safety, and longevity. As technology advances, the development of new materials and designs will continue to enhance the versatility and performance of hoses, further expanding their role in various industries.

[kmgquote]

Window Cleaner Tool for Home, 59.5'' Squeegee Kit for Glass, Car Windshield, Mirror, Shower Door Cleaning, 2 in 1 Outdoor Window Washer with Extension Pole

ZAR 310.56 ZAR 346.56 Shipping & Import Charges to South Africa https://amzn.to/3YcYFut Brand  – KeFanta Color – Orange Style – Modern Product Dimensions – 10″W x 59.5″H Blade Material – Rubber https://amzn.to/3YcYFut

[kitchenandbathroomspace]

How to Replace a Bathtub Faucet

There's nothing more annoying than the constant drip from a bathroom faucet or the sight of rust on your bathtub fixtures. Fortunately, replacing a faucet is simple and affordable, and many of these projects can be done on your own. Whether your bathtub faucet is leaking or you simply want to update its appearance, you’ll find detailed information on how to replace a bathtub faucet here. Read on!

Why Do Bathtub Faucets Leak?

Before we dive into how to replace a bathtub faucet, let's quickly understand some common reasons why these fixtures might start leaking:

Worn Out Washers and O-Rings Over time, the rubber washers and O-rings that form a watertight seal around the internal structure of the faucet can wear out or get damaged. When this happens, water may start seeping through, causing drips and leaks.

Corrosion of Spout Components Another common issue is corrosion, which can damage the pipes and connectors inside the faucet over time. This is often due to exposure to water with high mineral content (hard water).

Improper Installation of Washers Loose screws and connections can also lead to leaks. If any screws securing the faucet are loose or not properly installed, water may eventually start leaking from the bathtub faucet or showerhead.

Where to Buy Replacement Bathtub Faucet Parts

For washers, O-rings, and other small components, your local hardware store should have everything you need. Stores like Lowe’s, Home Depot, or higher-end retailers like Restoration Hardware usually offer a variety of new bathtub faucet fixtures.

However, if you're looking for larger or more specialized parts, such as a specific-sized spout or a brass handle, you may need to order from online plumbing suppliers or directly from the manufacturer. Be sure to bring your old faucet and handle with you when shopping to ensure they fit your current plumbing setup.

Tools You’ll Need

In addition to the replacement parts, you’ll need some basic tools to complete the job. Here’s a brief overview of the tools required for this home improvement project:

Adjustable wrench

Pipe wrench

Pliers

Screwdrivers (flathead and/or Phillips)

Plumber’s tape

Towels or cloths

You’ll also need to gather the appropriate materials for your project, including new:

Nuts and bolts

Valve stems

Spout

Replacement faucet handles

Matching showerhead or sink faucet

Once you have the tools and materials, it's a good time to place a towel at the bottom of the shower or tub to prevent any scratches or damage during the process. Use a second towel to wrap around any exposed valve stems to protect yourself from unexpected water flow.

Steps to Replace a Bathtub Faucet

Now that you have all the necessary tools and replacement parts, it’s time to get started! Follow these four simple steps to quickly replace a bathtub faucet:

Step 1: Remove the Faucet and Valve Stems First, shut off the water supply to the bathroom. This will help prevent any accidental flooding while you’re installing the new spout and faucet handles. The shut-off valve is usually located behind the same wall where the bathtub faucet is installed, and you can typically access it from an adjacent room.

Once you've located the access point and shut off the water, use an adjustable wrench to remove the nuts securing the faucet handles. After removing the handles, you should see the valve stems in the wall—this is the part of the faucet that actually controls the water flow to the spout.

Use a pipe wrench to loosen and remove the packing nuts on each valve stem. After removing the packing nuts, you can now pull the valve stems out of the sockets, leaving space to install the new faucet handles. If they are stuck, you may need to use pliers or a screwdriver to pry them loose.

Step 2: Remove the Spout Similar to the hardware and handles, you can remove the bathtub spout itself in a similar fashion. Your home may have one of two types of bathtub spouts installed:

Slip-on spouts

Screw-on spouts

To remove a screw-on spout (also known as a threaded spout), simply turn the spout counterclockwise using the "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" method. Then, to install the new spout, turn it clockwise.

For slip-on spouts, you should be able to pull the spout away from the wall without much effort, but if any caulking has been used to seal the fixture to the tile, scoring it with a putty knife or Exact-o knife should help loosen it. Once the caulking is scored, you can more easily pull the bathtub spout away from the wall.

Regardless of the type of bathtub spout you have, you may need to remove the escutcheon plate to pull the spout out. Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the screws securing this smooth, circular piece.

Step 3: Install New Handles and Valve Stems If the leak originates from around the faucet handles rather than the spout, you might see damaged handle stems. They may be rusted and corroded or simply not installed correctly. Whatever the reason, they clearly need to be replaced.

You should have already pulled the old valve stems out of the sockets, so installing the new ones will be straightforward. Screw the new valve stems into each replacement handle clockwise until hand-tight, then give one final turn with a socket wrench.

Do not overtighten the valve stems in this step, as it can damage the pipes. Once the valve stems are in place, you can now screw in the various handles and use caulking to ensure they are watertight.

Step 4: Install the New Spout With all the behind-the-scenes hardware, plumbing, and handles in place, you can now install the new spout. Essentially, you can reverse the steps used to remove the old spout.

Insert the threaded end of the screw-in spout into the fitting, then turn it counterclockwise to screw the threaded design onto the exposed pipe. Wrap the threads with plumber’s tape to prevent stripping as you tighten the fixture.

Additionally, installation of slip-on spouts is simpler due to the slightly different configuration. You simply push the fixture onto the new valve stem and seal it.

Secure the escutcheon plate or cover plate with one or more screws. Remember to use new screws underneath and seal the area with caulking to ensure no excess water drips into the wall or starts leaking again.

Conclusion

Replacing a bathtub faucet isn’t complicated, but it does require some patience and the right tools. If you’ve grown tired of traditional bathtub faucets, consider purchasing a freestanding bathtub faucet from Giving Tree Home, which offers more flexibility than traditional deck faucets.

By following these detailed steps, you can efficiently replace your bathtub faucet, ensuring a leak-free and aesthetically pleasing result.

[heavydutymachinerepairguide]

Volvo MD2010, MD2020, MD2030, MD2040 Engine Dismantling of Cylinder Head

This Article Mainly Introduces Volvo MD2010, MD2020, MD2030, MD2040 Engine Dismantling of Cylinder Head

VOLVO 88890300 Vocom Interface for VOLVO/Renault/UD/ Mack Truck Diagnose 1. Remove both battery leads. Close the fuel cocks. 2. Close the bottom valve and drain off the water in the sea and fresh water system. 3. Release the hose to the heat exchanger from the sea water pump. Release the exhaust pipe from the exhaust hook 4. Release the thick rubber hose under the heat ex- hanger. (Note: the hose is filled with refrigerant). Release the thin hose from the refrigerant pump. 5 . MD2010 , MD2020 : remove the drive belt for the al ternator/refrigerant pump. Remove the alternator and clamp. 6 Release the relay box from the heat exchanger housing and hang it up. 7 Release the electric cables to the oil pressure relay and to the refrigerant temperature relay and sensor (where ppropriate) 8. MD2040 : remove the cover at the front on the heat exchanger housing's right-hand side. Remove the spacer ring, thermostat and rubber seal. 9. changer. Remove the expansion tank complete with heat ex MD2010 , MD2020 : Remove the spring, thermostat and rubber seal from the heat exchanger housing. 10. MD2010, MD2020 , MD2030 : Remove the induction manifold. MD2040 :Remove the inlet pipe complete with air filter. 11. Release the delivery pipe at the injection pump and injectors. Lift off the delivery pipes together. Protect the connections from impurities. 12. Remove the nut at the top of respective injectors and lift off the fuel leak pipe . 03.2024 Vovol Techtool PTT 2.8.241+ACPI 0.7.1.0 High Level+Devtool 13. Unscrew the injectors. Use a long socket, 80 mm. MD2010 , MD2020 , MD2030 = 22 mm MD2040 = 27 mm. Remove the copper gaskets under the injectors. MD2030 : Remove the heat shields (3, Fig. 10). MD2010 , MD2020 , MD2030 : Remove the inserts (4) and the lower copper washers. 14. Release the electric cable to the glow plug. Re move the conductor rail and unscrew the glow plug. 15. MD2010 , MD2020, MD2030 : Remove the circula tion pump. MD2030 : Note. The pump must be released/re moved before the cylinder head is released. The pump can otherwise be broken. Remove the spring and thermostat. 16. Remove the oil pressure pipe between the cylinder block and cylinder head (rocker mechanism on MD2040). 17. Remove the valve cover (built together with the in l et pipe on MD2010 , MD2020 and MD2030 ). Vovol Penta EPC Offline 04.2023 Industrial Engines Download andInstallation 18. Release the nuts from the rockers' bearing brack ets. Remove the rocker mechanism (1, Fig. 13) and pull rods (2). Remove the valve caps (3, MD2040 ) from the valve stem. 19. Release the cylinder head screws in several sta ges. Note: Begin in the middle of the cylinder head and release the screws in a circle outwards. Lift off the cylinder head.

[loveofgrace18]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Swim Suits 4 All.

[penhero]

Another view of the pen, showing the peony panels and one of the SILVER stampings.  If you look closely, you can see the patent numbers on the ink shut off knob.

This is a c. 1923-1929 silver eyedropper fountain pen with hand engraved double peony (botan 牡丹) panels. The base of the cap and the barrel are both marked SILVER. The look of the pen is obviously inspired by the Parker Jack Knife Safety with the same basic cap and barrel shape, similar washer clip, and similar hard rubber cap top and barrel end. The clip is stamped POCKET CLIP on the face and 18K for 18 karat gold plate at the top. The cap band is stamped K14 for 14 karat gold plate. The gold nib is stamped WARRANTED over 14K over RT in a hexagon over 9. It’s 5 1/16 inches long capped. It's an eyedropper filler with an ink shut off valve. The hard rubber barrel end cap is stamped with three patent numbers, 64039, 67423, and 126473.

Read the story about this interesting pen here:

[yoyik456]

China offer oil pump A10VS0100DR13/31R-PPA for Electric Company

Dongfang Yoyik perennial supply spare parts of steam turbine, turbine generator, EH oil system filter, fluorine rubber O-ring, EHC system various types of pumps, valves, power plant automatic control components, water turbine generator, all kinds of bearings, electrical insulation materials, and other power plant spare parts accessories. The quality is quite worthy of buying. Yoyik can offer many spare parts for power plants as below: #DF-oil pump A10VS0100DR13/31R-PPA-DF oil pump cost 150LY-23 pump hydraulic power 65AY50*10 300MW turbine AC lube pump volute 125LY-35-5 shaft seal TCM589332 piston plunger pump PVH740ICRSF-IS-10-1 vacuum oil tank float valve DN80 1A424-27 dc centrifugal pump DFB-80-300 turbine AST solenoid valve HQ16.81Z closed circulating cooling water pump 300CS-58C pressure regulating valve DB20-2-52/315E mechanical seal parts A108-45B/BX1 solenoid valve E321F32 220VDC 8W mechanical seal pdf 10014CH1-5008 vacuum pump compressor P1725B servo valve HY-SFF8.04 hydraulic oil 65AY50X11 600MW turbine DC Emergency pump (EOP)impeller 125LY-32 servo valve SM4-10-50 transfer oil pump DLZB820-R64A piston vacuum pump PVH098R01AD30A sealing ring HB4-56J8-50 vacuum pump 30SPEN switch valve FQ-6-250 centrifugal pump parts YCZ50-25 dc screw pump DLZB820-R64A-19 Solenoid valve 56C-53-RA 25-150PSI Axial Piston Pump 25YCY14-1B centrifugal pump types DFB-100-80-230 OPC solenoid valve 3D01A012 ball valve M-3SE10C20/315G24NZ5L check washer DIN-5406-1993 non-return valve S10P5.0 piston pumps 25MCY14-1B piston vacuum pump PVH131R13AF30B252000002001AB010A liquid ring vacuum pump P-1609-1 oil transfer gear pump NSNH1300-42 oil pump A10VS0100DR13/31R-PPA servo valve D683-4001 mechanical seal for water pump N0330/2100/K/M/506B balanced vane pump F3-317667 OPC solenoid valve SV13-12V-O-0-00 screw pump working principle HSNH210-46Z twin screw pump HSNH80-27 pressure hose SMS-12-2438mm-B hydraulic screw pump HSND210-36 Bladder NXQ-A-40/31.5-L-EH electric centrifugal pump head DFB125-80-250 centrifugal pump working 65-250A screw pump diagram 3G80*6GR40 Ipsv valve stem ring E1-T2-M4172004 vertical centrifugal pump CZ80-250A Return valve spring DLZB820-R65-19 gear pump ACNAR05ACA0010000000000A (26005-RZC) reciprocating piston pump PVH098R01A250000002001AB010A regulating valve actuator servo valve MW01.Z.000692 solenoid valve 4WE6J6X/EG220NZ4 sealing ring HB4-56J8-22 rotary piston pump PVH074R01AB10A250000002001AE010A end suction centrifugal pump DFB80-50-20 oil pump 80LY-45-3 centrifugal pump parts -50-250C Regulator R74G-4AK-RMG chemical pump centrifugal 50-250 axial piston variable pump PV29 2RID CO2 screw pump stainless DLZB820-R65-3 pressure hose SMS-15/20-1219mm-C pump screw ACG052K7NVBP gear pump hydraulic 50YW32-200 pump vacuum KZ100-WS dc screw pump 3GR25*4-2.0/1.0 industrial vacuum pump 30WSRP temperature Regulating valve LWH-ZG1/2 electric transfer oil pump 80AY100A oil pump A10VS0100DR13/31R-PPA DFYLSYC-2024-3-11-A

[eggcount]

How to Fix a Hinge in Israel

March 9, 2024

Since I'm in Israel now waiting for Abby's baby to come, there aren't any eggs to count. Instead, I offer this telling of an amazing home repair. This time at Abby and Syoma's apartment in Carmei Gat, Israel.

Problem:  The top hinge has fallen out of a cabinet door in Abby's kitchen taking a good chunk of particle board with it.

No Problem, I can fix this. Follow along step by step!

Step 1) Call Mike for advice:

Syoma's solution is to ask their landlord to fix it.  I have my doubts on this because the landlord already tried to fix it by screwing it back in.  That held for one or two days until someone used it again.  Did I mention that a good hunk of the particle board was broken.  Mike as always has some ideas but first we must. . . .  

Step 2) Obtain buy-in from Syoma:

The landlord has agreed to allow me to fix it.

Step 3) Develop a Plan of Action:

After extensive conversation with Mike, both on the phone  and by text, it was decided that the best way to fix this was not to try to screw it in again, but to bolt it.  This was possible because there was nothing on the other side of the cabinet - just an empty space for a dishwasher.  An aspirational dishwasher I think is the term for it.  (Abby has an aspirational TV - this is how I learned the term. It refers to the TV that you don't have but wished you did.) In Israel, rentals do not come with appliances - everyone brings their own or buys the old ones from the previous tenants.  Rooms in Israel are also without closets.  Again, bring your own or buy one from the previous tenant. Big market here for armoires! Total digression -   the point is that instead of having to patch the particle board and figure out how to attach a screw to it without it breaking again, I can just bolt the hinge in and put a nice nut in the space where there is no dishwasher.  The gaping hole in the particle board will be filled with wood epoxy; then drill; then bolt!  Ta da - easy peasy and no waiting weeks and weeks for the landlord to "fix" it. (It will actually need two bolts as the hinge was held in with two screws.)   Just so you know that there was no detail missed, there was also a lot of discussion on what type of lock washer to use.

This is the piece that used to be in the particle board.

It's a sort of two sided plastic molly, but only one side remains.   Mike and I did discuss for a long long long time whether we could obtain a new anchor at IKEA.  (The cabinetry by all appearances is an IKEA product.)  We even spent a lot of time on the IKEA website even looking for the part!  But in the end, with the revelation that there is nothing on the other side of the cabinet, the bolts won. 

Until the repair is done, the cabinet door is propped up with a bean can topped with a folded up piece of cardboard and a lid from a tub of Philadelphia Cream Cheese, the cardboard and lid functioning as shims.  We have also added chairs on either side to remind us NOT to close the cabinet which will certainly break the other hinge.  Only the top hinge is the problem and we do want to keep it this way. 

Step 4) Gather tools:

Abby, it turns out, has no tools.  Well, she has a screwdriver and a rubber mallet and a pair of the cutest vise grips you've ever seen.  Super cute!  Syoma's opinion of tools is "who needs them, call the landlord to fix everything and don't put up pictures or shelves because it just makes holes in the walls that you have to fill when you move out."  Oye, thankfully he has a friend with tools.  And we arrange to borrow a drill and a hammer.

We can't get the drill until the next day, so the whole thing sits precariously and no dishwashing is done as this is the under-the-sink cabinet.  The chairs do not work as planned and we closed the cabinet door several times by accident, bending the bottom hinge but not breaking it or causing it to pull out of the particle board. 

Whew!  We make it through the night without further damaging the door.  Turns out that Syoma met his friend while taking a night time walk and picks up the drill.  So we are ready to roll!

Step 5) Buy Bolts and Wood Epoxy:

Here's where the fun starts.  Abby lives in a "new town".  It looks like Crystal City - lots of high rises (lots and lots of them) and hardly any commercial activity yet.  A ton of aspirational stores and oddly, four supermarkets and two produce shops.  I guess people have to eat.  Also two bakeries and a sort of dollar store type of place called "Booom" (no typo, three "O"s and it's in English too.) 

But also, right near Abby's friend with the drill, there is supposed to be a hardware store.  So off we go.  After a lot of looking and skepticism that it exists, and some ooh and aahing at the beautiful rainbow of meringues at the bakery and a little discussion of whether we should stop for a coffee and baked good (over ruled by Abby) we find it.  It's called, again in English, "Go Fix".   It might also have a Hebrew name, but the English name is written in big letters over the door. 

It's a pretty great name but in truth - false advertising.  This is the most under-stocked hardware store ever.  You would be hard pressed to fix anything. Yes, it does have some little bins of nuts and bolts, the hallmark of a good hardware store, but only 4 or 5 different sizes and no 6s which is what we need.  Well, some 6s but not long enough.  Not the hardware store of my youth with hundreds and hundreds of little drawers of every screw, nut, bolt, washer you could possibly want.  No bolt to be had, so we move on to wood epoxy.  This is a two-part epoxy for filling wood.  Just the thing for particle board and you can drill it!  First, the people show us wood putty and then wood glue.  Finally, after explaining that I want a two-part epoxy, the woman, who speaks excellent English, has a moment of clarity and shows me tubes of two-part epoxy for steel and ceramics, but no wood. (They are right on the counter by the register in a small bucket.) And then the guy shows me a tube of something that is used for anchoring things in concrete.  He thinks this might work.  I demur. It does not seem drillable as it appears to be silicone based.  I return to the two-part epoxy tubes and ask if maybe they can be used for wood too.  They are written entirely in Hebrew, so I can't tell.  Abby tries translating with her phone, but it doesn't work.  Then the woman reads the label on the tube and - hope against hope - the one for steel can also be used for wood!  The tube is excitedly passed around for verification - everyone nodding and beaming and affirming, yes, it can be used for wood! A sale is made and we are on our way to go fix.

Step 6) Buy Epoxy and Bolts (part two):

The epoxy has to cure for 24 hours, so that's how long we have to find the bolts.  Syoma has a plan.  We will go to the "old city", and by old they mean it was built in the 1960s.   The old city is the real Kiryat Gat and Abby lives in Carmei Gat, the new city, which is across the highway.  It's the same postal code, but has its own name.  Construction of Carmei Gat commenced in 2017 with the goal of 10.000 units - mostly high rise apartments.  You can google it.  It was sort of conceived as a bedroom suburb for Tel Aviv - only 35 minutes away and appeals to young families because it is cheap.  There are more playgrounds than open stores.  I counted 12 on our three block drive to the highway.  This is true.  

Upon entering the old city hardware store, I am transported. The smell takes me back to my youth where I spent many hours with my dad at Community Hardware.  Big bins of nails, thousands of little drawers of stuff, an old worn wood counter with "special tools" behind the cashier staffed by men who look like they've spent a lifetime fixing things.  This is my happy place.  Syoma has no patience for shopping and thinks it smells like "oil".   Abby indulges me as I head straight for the little drawers.  There it is - a whole section labeled "6", screws and bolts of all sorts and lengths and head types. But weirdly, none in the length I need.  And then, I spot one - on the counter where dozens of screws have been abandoned by would be buyers.  (The young Maurie would have had a fine time sorting and returning everything to its place. They loved to sort things as a child.)  And the guy comes over to help (asking Syoma first - naturally).  I show him the screw that I found and say I need another just like it and maybe a little longer please.  Well, I mime this as I don't speak Hebrew. He pokes around, opens some drawers, shuts some others and says "we don't have them".  He also mimes this.  Syoma has abandoned us.  "How can that be", I mime back, "I found this one."  "Just is", he answers and leaves me there to figure something else out.  As luck would have it, we were able to find two more 6 bolts (on the floor this time), different lengths, but they will work and I even have an idea to ask the man to cut them to the right length.   This will be easy to mime.  Washers and nuts are procured (there are bins of them).  

Next comes my best (or most baffling part).  There is an electrician's tool that strips wire that I really only recently learned can also be used to cut bolts.  The problem, as everyone knows, is that you ruin the threads of the bolts if you try to cut them with a hacksaw or diagonal cutter.  This tool solves that problem.  You screw the bolt into a hole and by super hard squeezing, you can cut the bolt. The holes are even nicely labeled for the size of screws.  My idea was to find the tool and ask the guy if I could borrow it to cut the bolt.  I would have sprung for it to add to Abby's pathetic tool collection, but I couldn't imagine that she would have a subsequent use for it.  I found the tool, easily spotted as it was right behind the cash register.  I'm not sure why it was there because it is not like it is so valuable that it risks being stolen. It's actually really cheap - maybe $10 - but that's the type of place this was - randomly organized.  And who knows, maybe electricians pocket this tool all the time.   So, I ask the man in my best mime if he has one that I can use to cut the bolt. The one behind the register is all in its packaging but maybe he'll take it out and let me use it. Or maybe he has one somewhere that is not in its packaging.  

Here's where it gets interesting.  The man tells me that this tool cannot be used for cutting bolts.  He brings out some diagonal cutters and offers to cut my bolts with them, but explains that it will ruin the threads. That part he tells Syoma who has now joined us with a power strip that he intends to buy.  Yay - Syoma's here.  He can explain to the guy that no, the tool for stripping wires will cut the bolts too.  And the guy explains to Syoma who explains to me that it's not for cutting bolts but for stripping wires and crimping.  He won't budge on this point. So frustrating to me.  I want so much to show him how it works, but it's not to happen and we leave with too long bolts and me wondering  - how can it be that the guy doesn't actually know this use of the tool?    I didn't know until recently, but it's not my business to sell tools.  And it's such a great use for this tool.  Electricians like it because frequently the bolts are too big for the space they are installing the box, with this there is no need for an extra tool.  Why didn't the guy believe me? Maybe he'll go home and think about it and give it a go.  And if you are reading this, and didn't know what those holes are for, now you do!

btw, no charge for all the little bolts, washers and nuts.  Syoma tries to pay, but the guy waves him away.  It's possible that they were just happy to have me out of the store.  You can never tell. 

This is the tool of which I have been speaking.  You can see the labeled hole.

And this picture shows the various uses for the tool in case you your self were also doubting me, which is unlikely. I'm always right as Dave will attest.  Top left - cutting bolts!

Step 7) Install Bolts:

This part takes two seconds.  Sand the wood epoxy a little so it's flatter, drill the holes, insert bolts, add washer, nuts and tighten the whole thing.  There were no lock washers, so I didn't use them.  A little miming with the guy and saying "lock tight" got him to understand the need, but he couldn't find any small lock washers and he thought that a tube of actual Locktite was too expensive for this small use.  Me too.  I thought I would use nail polish, but Abby doesn't have any.  Anyway, we made do without lock washers.  We did use Abby's super cute vise grips to hold the bolt while I tightened the whole thing.  

Step 8) Another Amazing Repair?

NO.  The door doesn't close now.  At all. I was worried this would happen.  I don't have any experience with cabinet door hinges but somewhere in the back of my mind I had an inkling that they are tricky and need to be adjusted and while I kind of knew this is true, I hadn't a clue on how to do it.  Abby gives me this look of "why did you start this project if you were just going to make it worse".  (While she would never be so rude as to say this out loud, she has a good face for expressions.)  I loosen up the bolts and nudge the door up a little.  This does nothing.  I think about calling Mike - I know he knows how to install cabinets, but it's the middle of the night for him.  So, I do what all thinking people of this day and age do - just google it!  Two videos later, the door is opening and closing perfectly!  So easy, that's what the little screws are for on the hinge - not the ones that hold it in, but the ones just sitting there waiting to be used to adjust the door.  I don't know how they work, but the one on the left straightens the door so it opens and closes properly and the one on the right does something else.  I didn't need that one so I didn't watch that part.  

Step 9} ANOTHER AMAZING REPAIR!

YES! Another Amazing Repair! I finished by job by coloring the screws with sharpie so they would blend into the cabinet.  I did not cut them to the same length.  

Ta Da! Easy Peasy!

and

Here is a bonus picture of the flags Mary made hung in the baby's room.  (also the guest room)

I also decorated the ceiling shade.  

Here are pictures of the other ceiling shades.  Nine shekels from IKEA with mom-applied tissue paper decoupage.  You have to bring your own light fixtures too in Israel. They just provide bare light bulbs - pig tails as they are called in the trade. 

This with flying hearts is in the kitchen

and this is in the entrance way.

And yes, they took forever to make.

Still no baby yet.

xoxoxo Sarah