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the wave
The wave
I was paddling calmly for this wave I managed to do a flawless popup, not long after I dropped into this halfpipe like wave. I slowly rotated my chest closer and closer to the board and rushing waters under my feet. I waited for a couple seconds, the wave quickly came tumbling over my head and I was hooked into it. I sat in the barrel for as long as I could, but my eyes started stinging due to the saltwater getting all over my face. I could also get a whiff oof the scent of the salt running through my nostrils. I rapidly exited the barrel and got struck by a million different tropical crystal-clear colour of the water shinning deep into my soul. I decided to surf down the rail a bit and as the wave came to an end my hair was flowing with the wind before it dropped back into the water.
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my surf trip to bali.
I left Phuket on the 6th of July to take my flight to Bali, Indonesia for my holiday which took an unexpected turn. I took my flight to Bali Indonesia for my first ever surf trip and as I arrived and left the airport, I was found flabbergasted as the first problem I encountered was the rental car. I was worried that the rental car was not big enough to fit a surfboard in the trunk (the car is a Honda havenza). We made our way to the house we rented at Canggu close to the beach, the house was beautiful mansion with a koi pond at the entrance with stepping stones to cross it as you entered.
The first day I was surfing an Almerick short board that I had rented for the day, I had been getting used to it for most of the day but just as sunset hit I clicked in and hit some steezy tricks in the water. After the sun had set, I paddled in towards the shore being super stoked with the session I had just finished. I came into shore and collapsed on the sand exhausted, and I still had to walk home. I stumbled my way into the outdoor bath connected to my room and had a nice long hot bath, it felt superb after beaning in the 19* water for the entire day. I made my way to the dining table and gazed upon the feast I was bound to have, a massive meal prepared by the private chef that came with the villa. He had cooked a big pot of paradelle bolognaise, as I shredded through the plate of food exhausted after my day of surf I finished and made my wat to the bed where I crumbled on impact and was knocked out.
The next couple of day I surfed at the same spot but after a week and a half I decided to rent another house in Padang Padang just before they held the wsl surfing contest. Having already bought 2 new surfboards I had already taken time to get used to them so as soon as I hit the water and paddled out to the reef, I was confident in my ability to surf these big barrelling waves and as I paddled to catch the first wave. Sonner than I knew it was time for me to catch my flight back to Phuket and I can say that it was a successful three-week trip to Bali.
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search for some new boards!!!
After the first couple of days in Bali I went out looking for some new surfboards and I stumbled across a massive Almerick surfboards shop and I knew upon entering that they had the almerick channel island board I was looking for. I matched eyes with a board that was in the sale section, and I had to buy it, as I read the information “6’1 channel island 33l rocket wide shortboard” meanwhile having the extensive red SALE sign gazing upon my soul on the board. After a brief discussion with my parents, we decided to purchase this majestic looking surfboard and I went to test it out the same day.
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culture shock!!!
For a holiday to visit my grandma like I do every winter I had a mini culture shock after I went shopping in France and saw that you had to do everything yourself and people would not help you or anything like that. One thing that shocked me is that there was only one cashier with a worker scanning the items meanwhile there were another 8 self-checkout machines operating. Another shock is that when you go to the gas station they don’t pump the gas for you or clean your filthy windows unlike in Switzerland or Phuket where people come up to your window ask what kind of fuel you need the amount or price of it that you want then put the pump in and clean your windows for you and you don’t even need to leave the safety of your car.
After I came back to Switzerland, we drove up to my chalet we have in Latzuoma and then we went skiing but whilst we were in the ski lift to go to the tip of the mountain I caught a glimpse of people doing some freeride in the fresh pow that had just dropped but there were no barriers stopping lower skilled people from doing the same free ride as these well experienced human beings.
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Surfs up boys.
Hello I am guillaume and i am a teenager mainly passionate of football, along side with surfing, skating and traveling. I started surfing 4 years ago and I am currently shreding a JS Industries 6'1 short board, I skate a 7.50'' size skate board with Spitfire wheels I got in Switzerland. I've been skating for 6 years but stoped for 4 years so i lost quite a bit of tricks but i still got some in the bag.
The person that got me into surfing is the one and only Kelly Slater along side surf Youtubers, the person that got me into skating is Tony Hawk with street skaters passing by my house grinding the sidewalk curbs.
I like Kelly Slater because he surfs with speed and manages to do quick snappy turns but he also manages too make them smooth on long waves. I enjoy watching Tony Hawk skate for multiple reasons, the main reason is that he is the face of the sport and made it famous aswell as the fact that he has many insane tricks in the bag.
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