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Is the fashion industry giving Melania Trump the cold shoulder?

Just as the world starts to get used to the idea of having Donald Trump as president of the United States, the millionaire has become the center of attention. His race to the White House, which was one of the most surprising endings ever, could be described as a series of unfortunate events: Scandals, leak videos, mean tweets, mean speeches, mean comments, mean everything.

Trumps is, perhaps, one of the most polemic and unpopular presidents in the history of the country. His wife Melania, a former model, a Russian immigrant, will succeed Michelle Obama as the first lady of the nation. The most powerful couple of the United States, the Trumps, will, sooner than later, occupy even more the news.

But talking about Trump may be repetitive at this point. What’s been causing attention lately, is his wife. Last week Sophie Theallet, one of Michelle Obama’s favorite designer, published an open letter where she openly declared she won’t dress the future first lady. “As one who celebrates and strives for diversity, individual freedom, and respect for all lifestyles, I will not participate in dressing or associate in any way with the next First Lady. The rhetoric of racism, sexism, and xenophobia unleashed by her husband’s presidential campaign are incompatible with the shared values we live by.” said the French designer.

Melania Trump’s own path to becoming the First Lady was quiet and reserved. Always standing by his husband, Trump maintained a serious smile on her face and delivered a couple of speeches (one of them particularly similar to Michele Obama’s some years before).

Her outfits, on the other hand, seemed to speak louder than her. She wore Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Roskanda, and that unforgettable pussy -bow blouse, just days after the “grab them by the pussy scandal.” All of her dresses, for example, sold out days after Trump came out wearing them.

She made clear statements through her clothes, and it’s undeniable her impact on the business of retailers –she bought many, if not all, at Net-A-Porter. Trump is now a fashion influencer, no doubt about that. What’s uncertain, is if the fashion industry has her back. Joseph Altzurra said to the New York Times: "I don't want to not dress people I disagree with.”

The industry seems to be divided, they can either take the change, sell and gain some publicity, or step by their own beliefs and let the chance go. It comes to a matter of values and political beliefs. Dressing Melania Trump is now a debate, it’s an interesting subject that can hurt susceptibilities and make a lot of money at the same time.

But the real issue comes down to the customers: Are they influenced by Melania’s style or supporting his husband’s speech? Anyhow, what this week’s news in fashion left us, is a perfect example of its influence and importance. Even if Melania steps up his discourse, or not, her clothes, and who made them will be the center of attention, will have a loud and clear message.

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Oscar de la Renta: A Brand Under Reconstruction

The recent Spring/Summer 2017 Oscar de la Renta’s show was a transition collection. A small pause for the brand, who announced two weeks earlier that Laura Kim and Fernando García- Monse designers- were taking over the brand as creative directors.

This show, designed and produced by 13 people of the team, presented a breezy and feminine collection. Colorful taffeta gowns, white lace dresses, and pieces adorned with lace and gold embroidery. Safari jackets, paired with bejeweled sandals, and printed fabrics opened the show, who slowly became more glamorous.

With the entrance of a bright pink peasant dress and evening gowns, the show transitioned into an 80’s mood, with off-the-shoulder pieces, puffy accessories, and satin fabrics. Again, sandals accompanied the outfits, a strong trend, as seen before in Valentino, Altzurra, and Etro. If in doubt, next summer go for the flats sandals and a flowy dress.

Truth is, the collection seems to be the result of the transformation the house is going through, and it was a safe move, at the same time. If seen closely, the pieces carry De la Renta’s DNA: the dresses are chic and beautifully crafted, with traditional shapes and fabrics –organza, caftan and belts to accentuate the hips-. The team took those traditional elements and created an easy-selling collection.

The house, another “under-construction” brand –see Lanvin or Dior-, will see, for sure, a new beginning in February, when Kim and Garcia take over. As for now, we’re witnessing a transitional period. Let’s hope next season brings a freshly beginning.  

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A Mid-Summer Night in Paris

A “kaleidoscope of personal ideas” was introduced by Esteban Cortázar in his latest Spring/Summer 2017 collection. A fusion of styles: big urban pants, leather overalls, bohemian skirts, and a lot of colors.

This Colombian designer transported the audience across his own lifetime. A remembrance of his trip to India, his childhood memories of surfers and skaters in Miami, and his favorite 90’s music, such as Sade, Lauryn Hill, and Erykah Badu.

With a hippie, yet athletic mood, Cortazar opened the show with a series of sporty bras, sequined skirts, long oversized dresses, denim pieces and a lot of dramatic draping. Silk and crochet outfits with the cut on the bias and leather pieces were also part of the collection, adding a lighter touch to what might seem like a heavy-handed approach to the forthcoming season.

He also debuted a new jewelry line of accessories with fellow Colombian designer, Paula Mendoza, adding some South American flavor and that friendly and peaceful vibe. Referencing their own country’s historical peace process, perhaps?

The collection, without reflexing of a political event, had the stress-free vibe that took over the show, ranging from easy and flowing fabrics to the wave cut technique, as well as the draping on the tops. References from the holy hill of Arunchala and the carefree and joyful play of Indian kids was evident in the layering and tied cotton pieces over long skirts and baggy pants. He transported us from his early years to now, with just a few looks on the runway.  

This time, everything came together as a big celebration, which he started before the show, after posting on Instagram some references for the collection: An Indian Sadhu, Malika Favre art and prints, and even a brief statement of a dream. “It was an essential mix in the cloud where we could dance and sing out loud and everybody loved everybody else…” said Cortazar. And it truly felt like that.

Paula Gómez

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Between Bouchra Jarra’s Opposite Worlds

The combination of femininity and the rough military style leads the tone for Bouchra Jarrar’s Spring 2016 Haute Couture collection showcased in Paris. In an effort to reinvent the French Republican Guard uniform, the Moroccan designer mixed and matched military elements with other inspirations as she tried to “[re]create a new world with everything counting in equal amounts.”

With Jarra’s voiceover reading excerpts of Marcel Proust’s “In search of Lost Time” laid on jazz melodies- the collection opened with an oversized fur coat on top of white loose pants and leather boots – setting a tone for the rest of the collection’s mood.

Then came a series of military coats adorned with lace and gold brocade. Vests and satin fabrics, long tuxedo jackets and wool gabardines in whites, honey and powder grays, that set the tone for fluid dresses in chiffon. Elongated and oversized pieces with that firm military reference.

In her intent to pair both worlds: the classic femininity elegance of the female wardrobe and the traditional men uniforms, the designer found the light line between the sex barrier. A close approach to the gender-fluid trend that fashion’s been elevating. Jarrar found the perfect balance in simple details: fur necks, dandy jabot shirts, pastels and see-through white and blue lace.

As the Moroccan designer faces a new job as creative director for Lanvin, her Haute Couture collection underlined her ability to create couture looks void of excess. Simple pieces yet tailored added the right amount of subtlety to this season, with pieces ready to be worn off the runway. She made couture feel at ease and accessible.

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Marc Jacobs and the dreadlocks controversy

Marc Jacobs’ fashion show closed the latest version of New York Fashion Week. The collection, a mix of sparkle, sating, prints, denim and super high platforms, unleashed serious controversy because of the hairstyle: dreadlocks modeled by white girls on the runway.

According to social media, the selection of models was the problem. Jacobs had girls like Bella and Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, even Adriana Lima, walking down the runway with pastel-colored dreadlocks. It didn’t take long before the range of comments and accusations that had Jacobs at the center of a storm. 

While many questioned the lack of black models on the runway, others focused on the look –arguing that he didn’t even credit black culture as inspirations. Initially, Jacobs took over Instagram by replying it was “funny” how critics don’t comment on black women for straightening their hair. By refusing to accept that the collection might have offended people, Jacobs argued that his collection was inspired by a “raw” street style and the “American teen spirit”.

Meanwhile, as Twitter exploded with controversy, fashion critics like Cathy Horyn and Robing Givhan stayed by Jacobs side. “The thing is that appropriation is what the Jacobs aesthetic has always been about — he’s borrowed from high and low fashion for decades,” said Horyn. 

“Should all the models have been black? Why? How would that validate pink dreadlocks? The clothes were a punk, street, cyber, sparkle fest. Hate the clothes or love them. But the outrage just seems like an exhausting exercise in misdirection”, followed Givhan in an article that Jacobs himself thanked for. Cultural appropriation or not, the Jacobs’ controversy adds to the race issue, a sensitive topic in the industry. It served to prove, one more time, that fashion has a significant gap when it comes to race. 

Paula Gomez

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Encounter Culture 2016/2017

Stylists: Paula Gómez, Cris Yat and Vivi Wang

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Flipping Forward to the Next Era in Fashion Journalism

When the field of journalism intersected with technology, things changed forever, and for good. The rise of the internet, web pages, blogs, social media, and apps embraced new ways of communication that demanded new guidelines and an excitement for information sharing. Today, to succeed as a journalist, one must conceptualize, blog, tweet, and snap to get notice.

There’s an unprecedented revolution in the era of instant information and viral stories. Journalists had to step up their game. Go big or quickly expire on the web, and stay relevant.  Suzy Menkes, International editor for Vogue, confirms: “You need to be engaged with the times you’re living in.” Technology is leading us forward and bringing along the future of journalism. Especially for us, the students, the field is now even more exciting to study and practice, with innumerous options and increasing professional possibilities.

Last week, at the Academy of Art University Fashion Journalism and Social Media Center’s media panel, moderated by Director Stephan Rabimov in conversation with Mickey Boardman, Editorial Director of Paper magazine and Lars Peterson, Digital Director of Visionaire, MA Fashion Journalism students Faye Harris, Taisiya Vivien Moon and Dairia Kymber were awarded with an IPad for their prolific and creative contribution to the fashion journalism channel on Flipboard, a widely used mobile app for news and information curation.

The magazine-format mobile app is one of the biggest tools for the three graduate students, who are now building their careers as fashion writers in the tech era.

“Flipboard has been helpful in my creative process because it brings forward new stories and angles that I hadn't thought of so it's been great at helping me find reliable content in one spot,’’ said Moon. “I love that it's always fresh and tailored to my interests with beautiful, bold images.”

Indeed, as fashion journalism students, researching and better informing readers is the basis of our work, and for that, we need the proper tools.

“Flipboard has given me the tools to understand the importance of defining my voice and reaching my target audience,” said Dairia. The web page allows its users to keep tags on various subject, helping writers to set the stage for engaging stories, good writing, and likable images. “I used it for research, inspiration, content curation, layout, and design ideas, as well as just loving the application for my reading purposes,” Harris added.

Harris, Kymber, and Moon agreed that experimenting with technology and being active on Flipboard modernized their approach to information and allowed them to save time on research, better organize their topics of interest and focus on what they feel truly passionate about.

“I like being able to open it up and learn something new because it's not always about writing something but learning something as well,” said Moon.

Flipboard use is on the rise; in fact, they recently opened a London office. Their growth combines the best of both worlds: a digital and print experiences. “It keeps the idea of the print magazine alive - of course, it’s digital, but it feels like you’re flipping through the pages as opposed to going on a magazine’s website,” Harris said.

The current intersection of journalism and technology defines us, aspiring fashion journalism students, who following what we’ve learned in classes like FSH 628: Social and Media Reporting, look forward to succeeding as fashion writers in the tech era.  And, of course, the day when the next generations will be flipping to our own stories.

Paula Gómez

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A close look at the Spring Graduation Fashion Show

 One of the first things seen at the Academy of Art University Graduation show was the long line of white lights and an inpatient crowd of students anxious to see what this year show had to offer. A long walk to the chairs that followed the cross sided runway.

The first couple of outfits came out in a rush; designer Jiaqi Lu went for blue oversized patterned shirts with simple pants in shades of blue. A mix of the Chinese silhouettes and the American style with Vans and Converse shoes.

As for the big and extravagant pieces, BFA Fashion design, student Vanessa Nash-Spangler, gave aspiring designers a lesson on how to manipulate fabrics (we saw a lot of tulles) and create a sequence of futuristic dresses in pinks and blues. Inspired by the geometry through nature and architecture, the “GeoSprung” collection marked a transition between the pure aesthetic of the first couple of designers into a more edgy and avant-garde look.

Xiuzhen Li, Karin Kate Wong, Febri Artha Jayanti and Justin Moreno collection

Xiuzhen Li exhibited next, with outfits in black and white. A sense of deterioration in the fabrics, the long and comfortable dresses, and a very basic mix of patterns showed the audience how layering brings certain static and romantic feeling to the collection.

Far away of the traditional black and white, menswear designer Ben Ellis introduced a collection inspired by French artist André Derain. Playful fabrics (jersey, denim) came out in long trench coats with hand-printed flowers on top of dark and deep men dresses.

On the other hand, women’s wear designer, Wen Jiang, presented the “purple and pink” introduction to her collection. It was an explosive but modest approach to a series of long pieces in two feminine colors. Influenced by some of the world’s breathtaking structures, her graduation collection included the fashionable color blocked trend and the pleating technique in long skirts.

Overall, it was a show full of enthusiasm and diversity that came to an end with the collections of BFA Fashion design Ke Zhang, and the Japanese Sophie Cheng. Perhaps the two most innovative and perfectly crafted collections. Zhang, who created following the artist Do Ho Suh’s sculptures, introduced translucent fabrics in extremely light-weight outfits for men. It was as ingenious as incredible, shorts and basic t-shirts that managed to stand out in the middle of layers and volume from past collections.

And, following the same direction, Cheng focused on the fabrics and exhibited six outfits full of layers and draping. The best part? The laser cutting technique that allowed the materials to move and gave enthusiasm and life to the outfits. A blush and pink color pallet mixed with asymmetrical tops and long skirts that worked with her dyed hand technique.

This year the Academy of Art University blend their leading designers’ work into a fresh and original show. Their collections exhibited more than upcoming talents; it was a display of irreverence and audacity mixed with the ecstatic experience of showing for the first time in such an event.

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Jennifer Connelly, Selena Gomez, Michelle Williams, Alicia Vikander and Grimes

The Louis Vuitton gang. Boots at the Met.

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Guest Speakers from E! Fashion Police and Vanity Fair Magazine On How To Make It In Fashion

As a fashion student, there can be weeks of no sleep and long hours of homework, but the thought of an exciting career in fashion keeps you going.

Then graduation day arrives. Faced with the reality of the real world, you ask, “What on earth am I going to do now?”

On Nov. 4th two recent graduates whose careers are taking off at E! Fashion Police and Vanity Fair Magazine provided some of the answers. Instructor Cynthia Durcanin, the founding editor of Elle.com in Paris, invited them to speak to students enrolled FSH 617, Fundamentals of Fashion Journalism at the Academy of Art University.

From left, Jamie Emmerman, Cynthia Durcanin, Kate Hillenbrand. Photo by Bob Toy

Kate Hillenbrand, a former intern at Sony Pictures, who now works as a production assistant at E! Fashion Police, was joined by Jamie Emmerman, a Photography Associate for Vanity Fair Magazine; both are recent graduates of Emerson College in Boston.

They’re good friends, ambitious and have a lot passion for what they do. And while we all know there is no manual to adulthood, Hillenbrand and Emmerman pointed students in the right direction.

“Do a lot of internships,” said Emmerman, who is based in New York. Internships help train you for future work, but they also help you figure out what you don’t want to do, he explained.

From left, Jamie Emmerman, Cynthia Durcanin, Kate Hillenbrand. Photo by Bob Toy

Emmerman, whose work has also appeared in Vice, Interview Magazine and Slate, interned every summer in college. While looking for a job on the site Ed2010 he applied to be an intern at Vanity Fair, “I didn’t even know that they had winter internships.” That was his first step, then he was hired as a photography assistant.

It’s also important to show a good work ethic. “You don’t have to have the most amazing resume to get the best internship,” said Hillenbrand, who works in Los Angeles. “You just have to prove that you will do the sh**y work. Just do it, and leave your ego at the door.”

Emmerman agreed, adding that the people you might work for some day also did their time as interns. “A lot of the editors at Vanity Fair started as interns, “ he said.

Kate Hillenbrand. Photo by Bob Toy.

It’s also important to humanize the bold face names who do the interviewing. “You walk into a place with a huge name and you see that person as embodying the name,” Emmerman said. “But remember they’re just like you and they probably had an interview like that and they were petrified too.”

Hillenbrand emphasized the importance of mastering social media as part of a fashion education. “I used to think social media would merge with marketing, but now I see that’s not necessarily true, they’re two separate things,” she said. “Taking classes in social media is very valuable because it’s not going away.”

She also spoke about how social media is challenging what we think of as fashion. “People are becoming so open to conventionally unattractive clothing it makes it harder to be like; this is ugly, or am I just looking at it with the wrong point of view?” Hillenbrand said.

Apart from the realities of work, students also wanted to know about how to live on unpaid internships, lifestyle differences between the West and East coasts, and of course, what to wear!

“This discussion is just what I needed to hear to get an idea of what is attainable after graduation,” said Juan Mata, a student in FSH 118 OL1 Fashion Editing and Writing. “Some things that really struck me; you don’t have to start off with the best job or internship,” he said. “Everyone has to pay their dues.”

While Hillenbrand stressed the importance of dressing professionally, students were relieved to learn that they do not have to dress like Anne Hathaway’s character in “The Devil Wears Prada.”

Jamie Emmerman (left) and Kate Hillenbrand (right). Photo by Bob Toy.

“If you’re on a budget you can always wear basic black,“ she said. “It looks professional and no one really knows what label you’re wearing.”

Jeremy Foster, also an FSH 118 student said he felt encouraged by both Hillenbrand and Emmerman.

“Kate said that no one likes a person in fashion who is a bore. I think that is something that I worry about, how much of myself I can keep.” he said. “Clearly being myself is going to be my greatest asset.”

We learned a lot from our guest speakers. Not only from their experiences but also from their honesty about working in fashion. They talked about what all students fear — the pressure to do everything right.

Jaime Emmerman. Photo by Bob Toy.

“Perspective is the most important thing to have at any job,”  said Hillenbrand. “Especially as an entry level employee, you feel like everything is kind of a job interview.”

Emmerman added, “Everyday you’re interviewing to move forward, so you need to take it easy.”

Their stories showed us that it is possible to land a dream job and that working in fashion can be the experience of a lifetime.

By Paula Gomez

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Why you should see the Oscar de la Renta exhibition

One of the first things seen at the “Oscar De la Renta: The Retrospective", a current exhibition at the De Young Museum in San Francisco, are three of the dresses the designer showed in the very famous “Battle of Versailles” in 1973, where five American fashion designers -including De la Renta, Halston, and Anne Klein- gathered at the palace of Versailles to show his work against the best five French designers, including Christian Dior, Emanuel Ungaro, Pierre Cardin, Hubert de Givenchy, etc.

Installation of “Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective” at the de Young. Photo by Drew Alitzer

The ethereal, colorful, flowing chiffon and crepe de chine gowns, pieces from his spring 1974 collection, precede seven sections in the exhibition: Early work, Spanish, Eastern, Russian and garden influences; daywear and eveningwear; ball gowns and red carpet ensembles.

More than 130 outfits celebrate the career of one of the most influential designers of the 20th and 21th centuries. Curated by the former editor-at-large for Vogue, André Leon Talley, the exhibition includes De la Renta’s first creations in Spain (with lace mantillas and satin capes, inspired by the Fiesta Brava and flamenco dancing), as well as pieces highly influenced by his former years at Balenciaga, and Balmain in the early ‘80s.

Spanish section: The rise of de la Renta’s career in Spain. Installation of “Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective” at the de Young. Photo by Drew Alitzer

This “travel-in-time” exhibition illustrates the importance of fabric for the designer, his approach to the women’s silhouette, and a signature aesthetic in every piece.

But, even more than a celebration of his legacy, the De Young show displays the precise prophecy that was the designer’s unique contribution to fashion. De la Renta managed to walk across time always reading what was coming up next: from the 1960’s onward. His own career traced change and the role of women in history, always creating for what was coming next.

Oscar de la Renta Evening ensemble; jacket and skirtSpring 2012 Silk tulle, bead and sequin embroidery Mrs. Laura Bush and George W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum Worn by First Lady Laura Bush at the Poland State Dinner, 2002. Photo by Drew Alitzer 

Talley, a long time friend of De la Renta and his family, explored the designer’s work throughout the years, including some iconic dresses like Sarah Jessica Parker’s Met Gala gown, pieces for numerous celebrities, and even First Ladies Hillary Clinton and Laura bush.

“The Retrospective” tells the story of De la Renta’s career in 130 dresses and five rooms full of his imagination and passion. This is not just about dresses and fabrics, the De Young Museum brings together the magic and creativity of the Dominican designer.

Spring 2001 collection, styling by Andre Leoón Talley. Photo by Drew Alitzer

“Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective” will run through May 30 and is a must-see for any fashion aficionado.

Paula Gómez

April 6, 2016

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Oscar de la Renta - The Retrospective

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The best and the worst from the Oscars 2016

The red carpet of the Academy Awards is the best scenario to be seen. The best weapon? Well, the dress, off course. Make it or brake it with the perfect gown and Hollywood will remember you forever. Who can forget Bjork and her famous swan dress? Or the black and white Valentino Julia Roberts wore in 2001? It’s all about the dress!

This year wasn’t the exception: hot and sexy was the trend. Charlize Theron, with a red Dior Haute Couture, Saoirse Ronan in green emerald Calvin Klein, and Kate Blanchet with a deep neckline in Armani Privé. A fashion affair with bright and pastel colors, strapless dresses and a lot of cutouts.

But the belle of the ball without a doubt was Alicia Vikander, in a yellow Louis Vuitton. Why? The perfect combination of a beautiful classic gown, and the attention of social media around the world. Sorry Leo, but the yellow beauty-and-the-beats dress, was the most talked and copied on Twitter and Instagram. She won the Oscars and all of us too.

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New York Fashion Week in action

What we saw during the recent New York Fashion Week was a battle. Kanye, trying to convince us that he’s a designer; Puma, by Rihanna, following the rapper footsteps, and Alexander Wang with a good- girl- gone- bad unexpected collection. Black everywhere, baggy dresses, sharp cuts, and patterned fabrics. A lot of pop culture, as Wang said: "Pop culture - it's what I feel, it's what I do - it's the Wang counties!” Trying to leave his Balenciaga years behind, perhaps?

The Japanese Tadashi Shoji followed the same radical path with a black and gold on long dresses. Tribal influences and a “tattoo” technique that updated his signature romantic silhouettes. A truly refreshing runway with rich details, a living story, and a strength style that won, for sure, the battle of Fashion Week. Pieces that we’ll see on the red carpet, for sure.

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Why you should see fashion documentaries?

She’s sitting in her famous red room. Walls, furniture, curtains, frames, coffee tables, all covered with the famous red scarlet chintz and brilliant Persian flowers fabric. Then she says –“All my life I’ve pursued the perfect red. I can never get painters to mix it for me. It’s exactly as if I’d said, ‘I want rococo with a spot of Gothic in it and a bit of Buddhist temple’—they have no idea what I’m talking about.” And, of course we have no idea what she’s talking about. But, as we keep watching, the film transports us into her life. By the end, we’ve walked in her shoes and seen her own legacy. Diana Vreeland’s documentary is an open book that keeps showing us how that red room is a compilation of her ideas, her modern world, and her revolutionary eye.  

Diana Vreeland, former Editor of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar

Now, talking about red, last week we found out that the famous red head from Vogue, Grace Coddington, will taking her memoir to the big screen.  Her film, who’s going to be directed by non-other than Sophia Coppola, promises an insight on Coddington’s trajectory.  A must see for fashion fans. This year, however, has been significant for fashion documentaries. In April, “Dior and I” came out, showing Raf Simmons journey to his first collection at Dior. Then, there was “Iris”, directed by Albert Maysle. A film about the life of one of the ultimate fashion icons, the 95 year old, Iris Apfel.

But it didn’t end there. “The Artist is Absent”, about Martin Margiela, debuted at the Tribeca Film Festival with interviews by figures from Jean Paul Gaultier, Raf Simons and Suzy Menkes. And, the most recent, “Jeremy Scott: The People’s Designer”, which opened in theaters last September.

The list goes on and on. Production like this and many others took us into the private and secret world of designers, fashion icons and editors.  The Galliano, Lebovitz, Saint Laurent, and Lagerfeld (of course), you name it. And it all started with “Unzipped”, from Isaac Mizrahi, which by the way, this year turns 20. This new genera has been producing more and more films in the last decade. Does that mean people are feeling more connected to the industry, perhaps?

Frederick Tcheng, director of “Valentino, The Last Emperor”- in a conversation with Alexa Chung said “When we tried to distribute the documentary, people didn’t understand. The asked, why should we bring this movie to the theaters? And then the movie ended up being very successful in the U.S and that sort of started a genera”, and he’s right, the idea of documenting fashion and its biggest exponents was like fresh air to the industry. Let’s call it a “new trend” in the film industry.

So, why are they working? Well, because they’re the new way fashion is communicating with the world. They’re are showing us the essence of the industry, connecting society and fashion throughout the big screen. “I see fashion headed into a more understated way where’s not all about the image but there’s more recognition of the human side of fashion or the reality of fashion.” said Tcheng. That way, documentaries are showing the human side of fashion but, also the whole team behind each piece of clothing we see down the runways or hanging in, let’s say, Forever 21.  Diana’s Vreeland documentary, for example, goes deep into the former editor of Vogue legacy, demonstrating her influence in the whole system of fashion. We get to see how she swayed, not only the fashion consumers, but a vibrant generation back in the 60’s. Which, by the way, we are product of.

In any case, you should pay more attention to them. This productions are a great compilation of what fashion is, how it works and why it matters. Like Vreeland’s red room, they’re a collection of the imagination, dreams and ideas that, as the former editor did, revolutionized the world.

By Paula Gomez

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Editorial

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Amanda Walker-Storey: Her life between makeup and blogging

“The reason I showed up on this planet back in 1981 is to share a few of my life principles: Beauty is for everyone. Your "flaws" aren't real. Practice makes Pretty. And finally.... just have fun and make it weird looking!” That’s how Amanda Walker-Storey introduces herself. A funny, curious, and passionate woman with an outgoing and charismatic personality.

This beauty blogger for Yahoo Shopping, former Glambassador of Benefit Cosmetics, and comedy writer has the best of both worlds: an eye for beauty, and the ability to entertain. What a better combination for a blogger? With a daily readership of more than 57,000, the 37-year-old writer “is different from other bloggers. Period.” Said Krista McAulay, editor at Yahoo.com “you always watch the entire video all the way through--you have to see what she's going to talk about next.”

Photo by Aubrie Pick, courtesy of Amanda Walker- Storey

Walker-Storey is recently married, has a dog and no kids. Her style is a mix of her colorful personality, and love for makeup. “I get inspiration from the 1920’s, Marie Antoinette, Wes Anderson films. I have a hard time not being overwhelmed by all the things that inspire me.”

A hair bun, big blue eyes, perfectly shaped eyebrows, and white porcelain skin are part of her signature style. When it comes to fashion, she can be found in: “black tulle skirt, white crop top and classic hi-top Chuck Taylor's. I always wear comfortable shoes because I love to dance, I hate sore feet and I have to hike up to Nob Hill to get home.”

Five years ago, consumed by a 9 to 5 job, Walker began writing about different types of makeup brands and products. What seemed like a fun thing to do ended up being a full time career. She now writes about lipsticks and mascaras with a prophecy that attracts a variety of. Her secret for success? Never taking it seriously. “The blend of comedy and beauty comes pretty naturally to me because I have never been the type to take myself too seriously. Makeup and the world of beauty is actually pretty hilarious, it's just that no one knows that yet”

That’s perhaps her biggest appeal to readers: It’s like having your best friend tell you about how she contours her face, or what type of foundation works better. “Best beauty advice: No one is noticing what you're freaking out about. On skincare: don't play yourself and be lazy. Wash your face, if possible wash it twice. Never ever ever sleep in your makeup, no matter how much wine you have had.”

With some skeptics on what beauty writing can be, her day to day, now that she’s working as a freelance involves “new clients and I occasionally supplement my income by doing wedding makeup or other artistry jobs. Living in SF is a hustle so anything that offers me money is my first priority.”

Walker-Storey talks openly about the struggle of working in the beauty business and affording herself, a battle among fashion or beauty bloggers “But working on my passion projects is very important too. You have to find a balance between eating and having a roof over your head and also fulfilling your creative daydreams.”

Combining clever writing, sense of humor, and passion may be her key to success. Which she achieved with hard work, as Yahoo editor, Krista McAulay mentioned: “Her biggest contribution to Yahoo Shopping is her heart. She puts her 100% pure love and devotion to beauty into each of her posts. She not only writes about what each product can do, but she also shares her own experiences with each product, giving us an insider glimpse into the world of a makeup artist.”

Photo by Aubrie Pick, courtesy of Amanda Walker- Storey

As part of her career, Walker-Storey says she’s seen just about everything when it comes to beauty and yet finds hilarious moments for comedy.  “I've held newborns while their mother's got spray tans, I've been nearly blinded by a sunbeam bouncing off a hand mirror, and I've had a $40,000 makeup sale. Cosmetics are much more interesting than people think.”

She’s young and full of energy, always thinking on what’s next. When asked about her future she says she’ll still be fabulous, and highly opinionated about beauty and fashion. “I do hope that my blog transcends all boundaries and becomes a place of beauty/body/fashion positivity for people who never grew out of playing dress up and painting their faces.” She’ll keep entertaining and writing, off course. Perhaps more focused on anti wrinkle products or makeup for 40- something women?

Paula Gómez