oldcraftbooks

[oldcraftbooks]

Tin Can Weaving

Pub. October 1982

Recycle tin cans into attractive woven pieces from bowls to plates to covered containers. Besides empty tin cans you need crepe paper and any clear polymer medium sold for craft work. Slightly thinned white glue will also do the job of stiffening the finished weaving and protecting it from dust and soil. 

Directions are for a woven piece that can be used as a flower pot cover, to hold dry arrangements or snack type foods. It can be turned into a covered canister by adding a woven lid. The basic weaving technique is the same for making other tin can weaving projects. Shapes can be varied simply by bending the tin spokes to whatever shape you wish as the weaving progresses.

Remove label from tin can, wash and dry it. Using permanent felt marker, mark divisions ½ inch apart from top rim to bottom, all around can. These will be the “ribs” over which weaving is done. Mark first one on seam of can, then proceed on around, ending with an uneven number of ribs. Adjust width of several ribs slightly, if necessary, to result in an uneven number. Using tin snips, cut through top rim to bottom of can.

Bend ribs straight out from bottom of can.

To prepare crepe paper for weaving, cut strips ¾ inch wide. Use an awl or a nail to punch hole approximately ⅛ inch diameter through center of piece of 2 inch square cardboard. The side where the punch goes in will have a smooth edge; other side will be a cone shaped opening. Stretch end of crepe paper strip several inches, roll end into a point and pass it through opening in cardboard, going in from smooth side and out through cone. Hold cardboard in left hand, putting light tension on crepe paper between your thumb and forefinger. Grasp end of crepe paper strip with right hand and pull entire strip slowly through hole to form strip into a stretched, twisted length if raffia-like weaving material

Slip one end of “raffia” between two ribs, with end of “raffia” on inside of can against bottom. Weave strip over and under ribs, being careful not to pull paper so tight that it is cut by edges of ribs. Weave around ribs for four rows, pushing each successive row tight against one before it to completely cover and hide ribs.

Hold edge of ½ inch thick piece of wood down on rib just at last row of weaving and bend rib up sharply. Move wood to next rib and bend it up to match first. Continue on around can in this way bending up successive ribs being careful to make bends at same place on each rib so top of container will be even.

Continue weaving. When you reach end of strip of “raffia,” glue end of another strip to it and continue weaving. Change colors whenever you wish by gluing two colors of strips together. 

Cut off excess “raffia” and glue end of weaving strip to part already woven. Cut strip of crepe paper 1 inch wide, long enough to go around can and overlap ½ inch. Glue this strip around inside of can for about half its width. Bring strip over top and glue to outside of can to hide tops of ribs.

Cut through fold of crepe paper to make strip 1 inch wide. Stretch into “raffia” as you did weaving strips. Divide strip of “raffia” in half lengthwise, then cut each piece into thirds to make six pieces of equal length. Glue all six pieces together at one end. Make flat, three strand braid, using two strips of “raffia” as one strand for braiding. Make braid long enough to reach around can. 

Glue braid around outside top of can. The ends of braid should butt against each other, not overlap.

Brush on coat of clear polymer medium, inside and out, using a narrow (½ to 1 inch) soft bristled paint brush. Brush over only once. Repeated brushing will soak the paper and cause colors to bleed into each other. When dry, brush on a second coat. 

To make lid for covered canister, use beverage can for ribs. Remove top of can and cut in strips from top to bottom, ending with uneven number. Bend ribs out and over to turn can “inside out” for weaving. Top will be domed rather than concave. Set can on top of tumbler or another beverage can so top can be shaped as weaving progresses. Weave lid to fit top of container ½ inch on sides. Glue end of weaving strip. Cut off ribs, letting them extend ¼ inch beyond weaving. end alternate ribs back against outside of weaving, rest against inside. Make two braids as you did for container. Glue one around outside top edge of lid, the other around outside bottom edge to hide ends of ribs. Coat with polymer medium. 

Punch a hole through top center of lid and use wooden drawer pull for lid knob. 

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48: Gingerbread Spice Rope

(id: a photo of a black and white picture in the original craft book. there are two felt gingerbread men tied to a braided yarn rope. there is a small stick attached to the rope that’s separating them.)

Pub. October 1982

Gingerbread Spice Rope

“This spice rope has a personality all its own and would be fun in a kitchen, dinette- even a child’s room. The little gingerbread people are smiling because they have a secret- a little pocket on their backs for fresh spices. These ropes can be made to match any color scheme and they may be used for sachets if you would prefer a sweet scent rather than spice.”

 Materials needed are about 42 inches of yarn in coordinating colors such as orange, brown and tan. The yarn used for the model is the thick kind often used for holding ponytails or for packages. You will also need dark brown double knit fabric or felt. (Be sure to use something that won’t ravel.) You will need stuffing, white and orange yarn, several straw flowers, two cinnamon sticks, and whole cloves. 

(id: a photo of a diagram from the original craft book. it’s the outline of a gingerbread man overlaid on a 7 x 5 grid. in the corner it says “1 square equals 1 inch.”)

Braid three strands of thick yarn into long rope, fold in half. To form a loop for hanging, tie near top with a piece of orange yarn. Twist the rope and tie off bottom with orange yarn. Trim ends evenly. Cut gingerbread boy and girl from brown fabric or felt. Cut a pocket for each, stitch to back of each figure. Stitch features and buttons with white yarn. Using even running stitches sew around figures, stuffing as you go. With orange yarn attach finished dolls to rope by tying firmly around neck. (You may also tack the doll in place to hold it more securely.) Tie cinnamon sticks to rope with orange yarn. Work several straw flowers into the bow as it’s tied. Sew a bone ring to the rope top for easy hanging. Fill the back pockets with whole cloves. 

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48: Flower and Garden Forum

Pub. October 1982

Flower and Garden Forum

 Is there a way to get rid of wisteria besides digging it up? G.L., LA

Cut it back and then try strong doses of weed killer. A nurseryman could recommend a killer that would work well on wisteria. 

How do you plant pine tree seeds and make them grow? R.J., SD

Evergreens can be started from seed. Collect seeds in fall and store in a cool, dry location until spring. Plant in pots of good garden loam, kept cool and moist. Transplant as soon as plants are large enough to handle. 

 I have an avocado seed in water and it is starting to sprout. What do I do next? V.C., AZ

Plant the pit, pointed end up, in a 6 inch pot of good potting compost, leaving the top half of the pit uncovered. Keep in good light and 65℉. Water liberally in spring and summer. Water sparingly and 50℉ in winter. Pinch out growing top to encourage bushiness. 

I have small lemon, orange, and lime trees hat are healthy and bloom. I pollinated the flowers and fruits began to develop but fell off. How can I prevent them from falling off? C.H., WI

Fruit very rarely appears on indoor plants. Large mature plants planted outdoors in the proper climate will develop fruit. 

Why do my pepperomia leaves wilt? B.Y., TX

Pepperomia like light but not direct sunlight, prefer high humidity and a loose, rich, well drained soil kept moderately moist. Apply a fish emulsion fertilizer every 4 weeks throughout summer but not in spring, fall and winter. Lack of any of the above conditions can cause leaves to wilt. 

How do I care for my chenille plant? R.V., KS

Chenille plant (Acalypha hispida) will thrive in a humid atmosphere with a minimum temperature of 60℉. The soil should be moist at all times but do not allow the plant to stand in water. Feed biweekly from February to August. Prune side shoots the first year and top shoots annually after the first year. Repot in February in good potting soil. Propagate by cuttings of side shoots. 

Can you tell me how to care for a Norfolk Island pine? C.F., TN

A Norfolk Island pine can be kept indoors until it is 4 feet tall after which it loses its lower branches. In winter, it needs light and temperature above 40℉, with less water. It likes plenty of fresh air in the summer and will grow in the sun or shade but screen it from the hottest sun. Water liberally with soft water. Feed biweekly from May to August. Repot alternate springs. Old leggy plants can be cut back to 6 inches and the shoots can be used for cuttings. 

I have a Euphorbia species about which I know absolutely nothing. Can you help? G.J., CA

Perhaps you mean a crown-of-thorns (Euphoria splendens). Soil should be porous and well drained but kept moist whenever leaves are present on stems. When leaves fall off, the soil should be kept nearly dry until new growth starts. Avoid excessive use of fertilizer. Use small amounts during the growing season. Keep the plant in a sunny spot and the temperature above 45℉. A saucer of wet pebbles will increase the humidity. Under good conditions, it will bloom much of the year.  

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48: "With the Cooks"

Pub. October 982

With the Cooks

Cheesy French Green Beans and Pork Chops

2 can French style green beans

1 cup American cheese grated

4 medium pork chops

1 small onion, cut in rings

Brown chops, combine beans, cheese and onions and simmer until cheese is melted. Place chops in bean mixture, cover, and simmer about 10 minutes. -Mrs John A. Hawkins

 Barbequed Ribs

4 pounds pork ribs

1 cup water

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon dry mustard

½ teaspoon chili powder

1 cup catsup

1 cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon onion, sliced thin

1 lemon, sliced thin

Simmer ribs in salted water about 1 hour. Place ribs in shallow baking pan. Combine remaining ingredients except onion and lemon slices, simmer 5 minutes. Arrange onion and lemon slices on top of ribs, pour sauce over all. Bake uncovered at 350℉ about 45 minutes, basting frequently. -Doris Sandahl

 Great Grape Meatloaf

1 ¼ pounds ground beef

1 ½ cups bread crumbs

2 eggs, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon pepper

½ cup grape jam

½ cup catsup

1 tablespoon prepared mustard

1 teaspoon prepared horseradish

In a medium bowl, combine ground beef, bread crumbs, eggs, salt and pepper; blend well. Combine jam, catsup, mustard and horseradish. Stir to blend. Add half the jam mixture to meat mixture. Mix well. Shape meat into a loaf. Place in shallow baking pan. Spoon remaining grape mixture over top. Bake uncovered in 400 degree oven for 50 minutes or until meat is done. Serves 6. -Helene Levin 

 Sauerkraut Beef Balls and Noodles

2 pounds ground beef

1 ½ cups well drained sauerkraut 

½ cup rolled oats, uncooked

1 egg, slightly beaten

¾ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon pepper

⅓ cup water or kraut juice

2 teaspoons caraway seeds

3 to 4  tablespoons oil

⅓ cup flour

⅔ cup yogurt

3 tablespoons milk

1 package (6 to 8 ounces) noodles

1 can celery or mushroom soup, undiluted

Soak 1 teaspoon of caraway seed in water for 5 minutes. Combine ground beef, sauerkraut, oats, ½ teaspoon salt, pepper and soaked caraway seed with water. Mix well. Shape into 36 balls, allowing about 1 ½ tablespoons mixture for each. Roll balls in flour; brown in hot oil. Then cover and cook slowly for about 25 minutes. Combine yogurt, milk, remaining caraway seeds and salt. Mix well, heat thoroughly and set aside, keeping warm. Cook noodles according to directions on package; pour off liquid, add soup and reheat. Arrange noodles in large serving dish or platter, leaving nest in center for meatballs. Pour yogurt mixture over balls and serve. Parsley may be sprinkled over noodles to add color. Serves 8 to 10. Alternate way of serving: combine all prepared ingredients, arrange in buttered casserole and heat in 350 degree oven for about 20 to 25 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley before serving. -Edna Carpenter Booker

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48: American Regional Breads

Pub. October 1982

American Regional Breads

“Food critics, restaurateurs and gourmets alike are talking today about American Regional Cooking. The day of trendy, French foods has come and gone to make way for a rediscovery of wholesome foods with a local past. These American Regional Breads were collected from cookbooks across the country and updated for today’s American kitchen by the Text Kitchens of Fleischmann’s All-Natural Yeast.”

The Eastern Heartland: Spicy Yeast-Raised Doughnuts are today’s version of the old-fashioned classic. These delicious treats are baked, not fried, and are delicious when served with fresh apple cider!

(id: a photo of a black and white picture from the original craft book. it’s a big pile of donuts on a platter. behind them is a plate of various nuts and seeds, some apples, and two glasses of what is probably water.)

Spicy Baked Raised Doughnuts

1 cup milk

1 ½ cups sugar

1 teaspoon salt

⅓ cup Fleischmann’s Margarine

½ cup warm water (105℉ to 115℉)

2 packages Fleischmann’s Active Dry Yeast

2 eggs, beaten (at room temperature)

4 ½-5 cups unsifted flour

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 cup (2 sticks) Fleischmann’s Margarine, melted

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

 Scald milk; stir in ½ cup sugar, salt, and ⅓ cup Fleischmann’s Margarine. Cool to lukewarm. Measure warm water into large warm bowl. Sprinkle in Fleischamnn’s Active Dry Yeast; stir until dissolved. Add lukewarm milk mixture, eggs, 2 cups flour, ½ teaspoon cinnamon and nutmeg; beat 2 minutes on medium speed of electric mixer, scraping bowl occasionally. Stir in enough of the remaining flour to make a soft dough. Cover; let rise in warm place, free from draft, until doubled in bulk, about 50-60 minutes.

Punch dough down; turn out onto lightly floured board. Roll out to ½ inch thickness; cut into doughnut shapes with floured doughnut cutter. Place on greased baking sheet. Cover; let rise in warm place, free from draft, until doubled in bulk, about 30 minutes. 

Brush doughnuts with melted Fleischmann’s Margarine. Bake at 425℉ for 8 to 10 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from sheets and cool slightly on wire rack. Dip in remaining melted margarine. Combine remaining 1 cup sugar and 1 tablespoon cinnamon; coat doughnuts with sugar mixture and serve warm. Makes about 2 dozen. 

 The Midwest: These sweet Cinnamon Rolls were a classic favorite of the midwest. 

(id: a photo of a black and white picture from the original craft book. it’s of a bunch of vaguely-triangular cinnamon rolls on a wooden platter. they’re drizzled with white frosting.)

Ninety Minute Cinnamon Rolls

½ cup warm water (105℉ to 115℉)

1 package Fleischmann’s Active Dry Yeast

3 tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons Fleischmann’s Margarine, softened

1 egg (room temperature)

2-2 ½ cups unsifted flour

Melted Fleischmann’s Margarine

⅓ cup sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

⅓ cup dark seedless raisins

Confectioners’ sugar frosting

 Measure warm water into large warm bowl. Sprinkle in Fleischmann’s Active Dry Yeast; stir until dissolved. Add 3 tablespoons sugar, salt, 2 tablespoons, Fleischmann’s Margarine, egg and 1 cup flour; beat until smooth. Stir in enough additional flour to make a soft dough. Turn out onto lightly floured board; knead about 2 minutes, until smooth. Roll dough out to an 18 x 9 inch rectangle. Brush with melted Fleischmann’s Margarine. Combine with ⅓ cup sugar and cinnamon. Sprinkle dough with cinnamon sugar and raisins. Roll up from long side as for jellyroll. Pinch seam to seal. Cut into 12 equal pieces. Arrange, cut side down, in a greased 8 inch round pan. 

On the bottom rack of cold oven pour boiling water into a large baking pan to a depth of 1 inch. Place rolls on a wire rack over a pan of water. Cover. Close oven door and let rise 30 minutes. Uncover rolls and remove wire rack and pan of water. Turn oven to 375℉. Bake 25 minutes, or until done. Remove from pan and cool on wire rack. Frost with confectioners’ sugar frosting. Makes 1 dozen. 

 The West and Northwest: Sourdough breads of the Old West were made with yeast “starters,” spongy blend of flour, sugar and water that naturally fermented to form a wild yeast mixture. Today’s sourdough breads are made with similar “starters” but today’s starter contains active dry yeast for better, more consistent flavor and performance. Try this delicious Sourdough Bread and see!

(id: a photo of a black and white picture from the original craft book. it’s of two bread loaves on a round platter. one of them is whole, the other has a few slices lying next to it. behind the bread are labeled jars of various flours- whole wheat, cracked wheat, and white. the other jar is labeled “sourdough”)

Three Wheat Sourdough Bread

3 ½-4 cups unsifted white flour

1 cup unsifted whole wheat flour

½ cup cracked wheat

2 teaspoons salt

1 package Fleischmann’s Active Dry Yeast

1 ¼ cups milk

¼ cup water

¼ cup honey

2 tablespoons Fleischmann’s Margarine

1 ½ cups sourdough starter

 Combine 2 cups white flour, whole wheat flour and cracked wheat. In a large bowl combine 1 ½ cups flour mixture, salt and undissolved Fleischmann’s Active Dry Yeast. Combine milk, water, honey and Fleischmann’s Margarine in saucepan. Heat over low heat until liquids are very warm (120℉ to 130℉). Margarine does not need to melt. Gradually add to dry ingredients and beat 2 minutes at medium speed of electric mixer, scraping bowl occasionally. Add starter and 1 cup flour mixture. Beat at high speed 2 minutes, scraping bowl occasionally. Stir in remaining flour mixture and enough remaining white flour to make a stiff dough. Turn out onto lightly floured board; knead until smooth and elastic, about 8 to 10 minutes. Place in a greased bowl, turning to grease top, Cover; let rise in a warm place free from draft, until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour and 10 minutes. 

Punch dough down; divide in half. Roll each piece to a 12 x 8 inch rectangle. Shape into 2 loaves. Place on greased 8 ½ x 4 ½ x 2 ½ inch loaf pans. Cover; let rise in a warm place, free from draft, until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. 

Bake at 375℉ for 30 to 35 minutes, or until done. Remove from baking sheets and place on wire racks to cool. Makes 2 loaves. 

 Sourdough Starter

3 ½ cups unsifted strong, bread-type flour

1 tablespoon sugar

1 package Fleischmann’s Active Dry Yeast

2 cups warm water

 Combine flour, sugar and undissolved Fleischmann’s Active Dry Yeast in a large bowl. Gradually add warm water to dry ingredients and beat until smooth. Cover with transparent wrap; let stand in warm place for 2 days. 

To use in recipe: Measure out amount called for in recipe and use as directed. 

To replenish starter: To remaining starter add 1 ½ cups strong, unsifted bread-type flour and 1 up warm water. Beat until smooth. Store covered in warm place. Stir before using. If not used in one week, remove 1 ½ cups starter and follow directions for replenishing. 

 New England States: Oatmeal and brown breads date back to Colonial New England where they were staple foods. Today’s version is made with nutritious whole wheat flour, honey and cottage cheese, for extra richness and protein. 

(id: a photo of a black and white picture from the original craft book. there are oval-shaped slices of bread fanned out on a round platter, with a bowl of dip in the middle. the bread ingredients are artfully placed behind the platter, alongside the second, intact, loaf.)

Honey Oatmeal Bread

3 ½- 4 cups unsifted white flour

2 cups unsifted whole wheat flour

2 teaspoons salt

2 packages Fleischmann’s Active Dry Yeast

1 cup water

½ cup honey

¼ cup (½ stick) margarine

1 cup cream style cottage cheese

2 eggs (at room temperature)

¾ cup chopped oats, uncooked

¾ cup chopped pecans

 Combine 3 cups white flour and whole wheat flour. In a large bowl thoroughly mix 1 ½ cups flour mixture, salt and yeast. 

Combine water, honey, margarine and cottage cheese in a saucepan. Heat over low heat until liquids are very warm (120℉ to 130℉). Margarine does not need to melt. Gradually add to dry ingredients and beat 2 minutes at medium speed of electric mixer, scraping bowl occasionally. Add eggs and ½ cup flour mixture. Beat at high speed 2 minutes, scraping bowl occasionally. Stir in quick oats, remaining flour mixture and enough additional white flour to make a soft dough. Turn out onto lightly floured board; knead until smooth and elastic, about 8 to 10 minutes. Place in a greased bowl, turning to grease top. Cover bowl, let rise in warm place free of draft, until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. 

Punch dough down. Turn onto lightly floured board. Knead in pecans. 

Divide dough in half. Shape each into a loaf and place in two greased 8 ½ x 4 ½ x 2 ½ inch loaf pans or into balls and place in two greased 8 inch layer cake pans. Lightly greased tops of loaves. Let rise until double in bulk, about 1 hour. Bake at 375℉ for 35 minutes to 40 minute, or until done. Remove from pans and cool on wire racks. Makes 2 loaves. 

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48:  Square Tatted Doily

(id: a photo of a black and white picture from the original craft book. it’s a delicate looking lace doily, partially visible.)

Pub. October 1982

Square Tatted Doily

“When made with number 30 crochet thread this doily will measure about 11 ½ inches square. You will need approximately 230 yards of number 30 crochet thread, a tatting shuttle and number 12 steel crochet hook for joining picots.”

Abbreviations: 

Ch (chain)

Cl r (close ring)

Ds (double stitch)

P (picot)

R (ring)

Rw (reverse work)

Rnd (round)

Sk (skip)

Sep (separated)

Center: R of 5 ds, 8 long p (½ inch long), sep by 5 ds, cl r. Tie and cut threads. 

Rnd 1: Make a cloverleaf, r of 5 ds, 3 p sep by 5 ds, 5 ds, cl r. R of 5 ds, join in last p of last r, 5 ds, join in long p of center r, 5 ds, p, 5 ds, cl r. R of 5 ds, join in last p of last r, 5 ds, 2 p sep by 5 ds 5 ds, cl r, rw. Tie ball thread to shuttle thread. Ch 5 ds, 4 p sep by 5 ds, 5 ds, rw. *Make a cloverleaf, joining second p of first r to second p of last r in last cloverleaf, after completing cloverleaf, rw. Ch 5 ds, 4 p sep by 5 ds, 5 ds, rw. Repeat from * around, join second p of last r to second p of first r and join last ch at base of first cloverleaf. Tie and cut threads. 

Rnd 2: With ball and shuttle threads, join in first p of ch, * ch 5 ds, 3 p sep by 5 ds, 5 ds, sk 2 p of same ch, join in next p, ch 5 ds, p, 5 ds, join in first p of next ch. Repeat from * around, join last ch at base of first ch. Tie and cut threads. This completes a medallion. Continue to make 25 medallions. As each medallion is made join the center p of two 3 p-chs to corresponding center p of previous medallion. The medallions are joined in five rows with five medallions in each row. 

Four Leaf Clover Fill-in:  R of 5 ds, 2 p sep by 5 ds, 5 ds, join in p of 1-p-ch, 5 ds, 2 p sep by 5 ds, 5 ds, cl r. (R of 5 ds, 2 p sep by 5 ds, 5 ds, join in p of 1-p-ch on next medallion, 5 ds, 2 p sep by 5 ds, 5 ds, cl r) 3 times. Tie and cut threads. There are 16 fill-in motifs.

Shape and press under damp cloth. 

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48:  “Women who make Cents”

Pub. October 1982

Women who make Cents

Eye Glass Chains

(id: a photo of a black and white picture from the original craft book. it’s a pair of glasses with a glasses chain attached.)

Using elastic metalic thread and size E crochet hook, ch 4, join to form ring. Sc 6 in ring and ch to desired length. Join last 4 chs to form ring. 6 Scs in ring and fasten off. These sell for [1982] 25¢ -Lesley Lynn

*¢0.67 adjusted for 2020 inflation

Bird Cages

(id: a photo of a black and white picture from the original craft book. it’s a small birdcage with a handle on top and a little fake bird visible within.)

Attach a pipe cleaner  to two sides of a plastic strawberry container as a perch. Fasten little feathered birds on perch. Place the top container on the bottom one upside down, forming a cage. Fasten each corner with yarn or ribbon to top for a hanger. Sells for [1982] $1.25*. -Charlotte A. Pierce

*$3.34 adjusted for 2020 inflation

Decorative Candlesticks

(id: a photo of a black and white picture from the original craft book. they are a pair of candlesticks, with small cylindrical candles on top. the one on the left is plain, the other has fake, decorative jewels on the side.)

Purchase unfinished carved table legs, between 8 and 10 inches long, from lumber yard. Stain them with oak or maple stain. Decorate them with small imitation jewels. Trim with gold paint. Top with a small scented candle. Each sells for [1982] $2.50* -Geraldine Hansen

*$6.68 adjusted for 2020 inflation

Large Turtle Pincushions

(id: a photo of a black and white picture from the original craft book. it’s a small turtle, with a checkered shell. there are two needles stuck in it. it’s smiling.)

Cut small scraps of doubleknit material into patchwork. Sew squares together; cut the back from this. Rest of body is cut from green wool. Sew pieces together, leaving small opening at head position. Stuff with sawdust until very firm. Stitch head down by hand. These sell for [1982] $1.50 to $2.00* each. -C. Walker

*$4.01-$5.35 adjusted for 2020 inflation

Name Pillows

(id: a photo of a black and white picture from the original craft book. it’s a small square pillow with a checkered pattern. on the white squares are names- john, betty, sue, ann, bill, jane, bob, and dick.)

Sew 8 plain and 8 printed 3-inch blocks together (4 across, 4 rows). Alternate joining of plain and printed blocks. On the diagonal of plain blocks, stencil letters for name for name. Paint letters with textile paints. For black, cut a piece of print material same size as finished font. Sew three sides together and stuff. Close opening with blind stitch. These make nice gifts or sell for [1982] $1 to $1.50*. -Judy Drake

*$2.67-$4.01 adjusted for 2020 inflation

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48: Tri-Colored Cable Pullover

(id: a full color photo of a craft magazine. there is a woman modeling the pullover, which is striped with tan-brown, dark brown, and a shade of brown mid-way beteen the two. there are two main stripes (dark and medium brown) that span her chest. the rest of the sweater is light brown.)

Pub. October 1982

Tri-Colored Cable Pullover

“The model was made with Bernat Berella “4,” a machine washable and dryable knitting worsted weight yarn available in 3.5 ounce (100 gram) balls. Instructions are for small (8-10) with changes for medium in parentheses. You will need 3 (4, 4) balls sandstone (color A), 2 (2, 3) walnut heather color (color B), 1 (1, 2) brown (color C), numbers 6 and 9 standard needles, number 6 double pointed needles, number 6 double pointed needles, cable stitch holder and bobbins.”

Abbreviations: K (knit) St (stitch) Inc (increase) P (purl) Sl (slip) Dec (decrease) Tog (together)

Gauge: 9 sts equal 2 inches TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE

Note: When changing colors, always hold color which has just been worked to the left and pick up new color from underneath. This twists yarn so that there are no holes.

RIB PATTERN STITCH FOR BACK Row 1: Using color A, k 1 (p 1, k 1) 5 (6, 7) times; using color C (p 1, k 1) 11 (12, 13) times; using color B, (p 1, k 1) 11 (12, 13) times; using color A, (p 1, k 1) 5 (6, 7) times, p 1. Row 2: (Right Side) Using color A, k 1, (p 1, k 1) 5 (6, 7) times; using color B, (p1, k 1) 11 (12, 13) times; using color C, (p 1, k 1) 11 (12, 13) times; using color A, (p 1, k 1) 5 (6, 7) times, p 1. Repeat these 2 rows for rib pattern stitch for back.

CABLE PATTERN FOR BACK Row 1: K 10 (12, 14) color A; sl next 4 sts to cable needle and hold in FRONT of work, using color B, k next 4 sts, using color A, k 4 sts from cable needle; k 16 (18, 20) color B; sl next 4 sts to cable needle and hold in FRONT of work, using color C, k next 4 sts, using color B, k 4 sts from cable needle; k 16 (18, 20) color C; sl next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold in FRONT of work, using color A, k next 4 sts, using color C, k 4 sts from cable needle; k 10 (12, 14) color A.

Row 2: P 10 (12, 14) color A, p 4 color C, p 4 color A, p 16 (18, 20) color C, p 4 color B, p 4 color C, p 16 (18, 20) color B, p 4 color A, p 4 color B, p 10 (12, 14) color A.

Rows 3, 5, 7, 9: K 10 (12, 14) color A, k 4 color B, k 4 color A, k 16 (18, 20) color B, k 4 color C, k 4 color B, k 16 (18, 20) color C, k 4 color A, k 4 color C, k 10 (12, 14) color A.

Rows 4, 6, 8, 10: Repeat Row 2.

Row 11: K 10 (12, 14) color A; sl next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold in FRONT of work, using color A, k next 4 sts, using color B, k 4 sts from cable needle; k 16 (18, 20) color B; sl next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold in FRONT of work, using color B, k next 4 sts, using color C, k 4 sts from cable needle; k 16 (18, 20) color C; sl next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold in FRONT of work, using color C, k next 4 sts, using color A, k 4 sts from cable needle; k 10 (12, 14) color A.

Row 12: P 14 (16, 18) color A, p 24 (26, 28) color C, p 24 (26, 28) color B, p 14 (16, 18) color A.

Row 13, 15: K 14 (16, 18) color A, k 24 (26, 28) color B, k 24 (26, 28) color C, k 14 (16, 18) color A.

Rows 14 and 16: Repeat Row 12. Repeat these 16 rows for cable pattern for back.

BACK: Using smaller straight needles, work as follows: Using color A, cast on 11 (13, 15) sts, drop color A; using color B, cast on 22 (24, 26) sts, drop color B, cast on 22 (24, 26) sts, drop color B; using color B; using color C, cast on 22 (24, 26) sts, drop color C; using another ball of color A, cast on 11(13, 15) sts- 66 (74, 82) sts. Working in rib pattern for back, work even until piece measures 3 ½ inches, ending with Row 2.

Inc Row: Using color A, p 2, inc one st in next st, [p 2 (2, 3), inc one st in next st] twice, p 2 (4, 4); using color C, p 6 (7, 8), inc one st in next st, p 8, inc one st in next st, p 6 (7, 8); using color B, p 6 (7, 8), inc one st in next st, p 8, inc one st in next st, p 6 (7, 8); using color A, p 2 (4, 4), inc one st in next st, [p 2 (2, 3), inc one st in next st] twice, p 2- 76 (84, 92) sts. Change to larger needles and work as follows:

Row 1: K 10 (12, 14) color A, place marker on needle, k 4 color A, k 4 color B, place marker on needle, k 16 (18, 20) color B, place marker on needle, k 4 color B, k 4 color C, place marker on needle, k 16 (18, 20) color C, place marker on needle, k 4 color A, place marker on needle, k 10 (12, 14) color A.

Rows 2, 4, 6: P 14 (16, 18) color A, p 24 (26, 28) color C, p 24 (26, 28) color B, p 14 (16, 18) color A.

Rows 3, 5: K 14 (16, 18) color A, k 24 (26, 28) color B, k 24 (26, 28) color C, k 14 (16, 18) color A.

Starting with Row 1, work even in cable pattern for back until piece measures 13 ½ (13 ½, 14) inches, ending with wrong side row.

Shape Full-Fashioned Armholes: At beginning of each of next 2 rows, bind off 5 (5, 6) sts.

Row 3: K 2, k 2 tog, work to last 4 sts, sl 1, k 1, psso, k 2.

Row 4: Work even in pattern st.

Repeat last 2 rows 3 (4, 4) times more. Work even in pattern as established on 58 (64, 70) sts until armholes measure 6 ¼ (6 ¾, 7 ¼) inches, ending with wrong side row.

Shape Neck: On next row work 17 (19, 21) sts, sl center 24 (26, 28) sts to holder, join another ball of yarn and work last 17 (19, 21) sts. Working both sides at once, at each neck edge dec one st every other row 3 times. Work even in pattern as established on 14 (16, 18) sts of each side until armholes measure 7 ¼ (7 ¾, 8 ¼) inches.

Shape Shoulders: (Right side) At arm edge bind off first 1 (2, 3) sts, k 2 tog (dec st), bind off dec st, bind off next 2 sts, k 2 tog (dec st), bind off dec st, bind off remaining sts. Fasten off.

Left Side: Row 1: Work in pattern as established. Row 2: Bind off in same manner as right side, working p 2 tog for dec st.

RIB PATTERN STITCH FOR FRONT Row 1: Using color A, k 1, (p 1, k 1) 5 (6, 7) times; using color B, (p 1, k 1) 11 (12, 13) times; using color C, (p 1, k 1) 11 (12, 13) times; using color A, (p 1, k 1) 5 (6, 7) times, p 1.

Row 2: (Right side) Using color A, k 1, (p 1, k 1) 5 (6, 7) times; using color C, (p 1, k 1) 11 (12, 13) times; using color B, (p 1, k 1) 11 (12, 13) times; using color A, (p 1, k 1) 5 (6, 7) times, p 1.

Repeat these 2 rows for rib pattern for front.

CABLE PATTERN FOR FRONT Row 1: K 10 (12, 14) color A; sl next 4 sts to cable needle and hold in FRONT of work, using color C, k next 4 sts, using color A, k 4 sts from cable needle; k 16 (18, 20) color C; sl next 4 sts to cable needle and hold in FRONT of work, using color B, k next 4 sts, using color C, k4 sts from cable needle; k 16 (18, 20) color B; sl next 4 sts to cable needle and hold in FRONT of work, using color A, k next 4 sts, using color B, k 4 sts from cable needle; k 10 (12, 14) color A.

Row 2: P 10 (12, 14) color A, p 4 color B, p 4 color A, p16 (18, 20) color B, p 4 color C, p 4 color B, p 16 (18, 20) color C, p 4 color A, p 4 color C, p 10 (12, 14) color A.

Rows 3, 5, 7, 9: K 10 (12, 14) color A, k 4 color C, k 4 color A, k16 (18, 20) color C, k 4 color B, k 4 color C, k 16 (18, 20) color B, k 4 color A, k 4 color B, k 10 (12, 14) color A.

Rows 4, 6, 8, 10: Repeat Row 2.

Row 11: K 10 (12, 14) color A, sl next 4 sts to cable needle and hold in FRONT of work, using color A, k next 4 sts, using color C, k 4 sts from cable needle; k 16 (18, 20) color C; sl next 4 sts to cable needle and hold in FRONT of work, using color C, k next 4 sts, using color B, k 4 sts from cable needle; k 16 (18, 20) color B; sl next 4 sts to cable needle and hold in FRONT of work, using color B, k next 4 sts, using color A, k 4 sts from cable needle; k 10 (12, 14) color A.

Row 12: P 14 (16, 18) color A, p 24 (26, 28) color B, p 24 (26, 28) color C, p 14 (16, 18) color A.

Rows 13, 15: K 14 (16, 18) color A, k 24 (26, 28) color C, k 24 (26, 28) color C, k 24 (26, 28) color B, k 14 (16, 18) color A.

Rows 14 and 16: Repeat row 12.

Repeat these 16 rows of cable pattern for front.

FRONT: Using smaller straight needles, work as follows: Using color A, cast on 11 (13, 15) sts, drop color A; using color C, cast on 22 (24, 26) sts, drop color C; using color B, cast on 22 (24, 26) sts, drop color B; using another ball of color A, cast on 11 (13, 15) sts- 66 (74, 82) sts. Keeping color sequence as established work to correspond to back until piece measures 3 ½ inches, ending with Row 2.

Inc row: Using color A, p 2 inc one st in next st, [p 2 (2, 3), inc one st in next st] twice, p 2 (4, 4); using color B, p 6 (7, 8), inc one st in next st, p 8, inc one st in next st, p 6 (7, 8); using color C, p 6 (7, 8), inc one st in next st, p 8, inc one st in next st, p 6 (7, 8); using color A, p 2 (4, 4), inc one st in next st, [p 2 (2, 3), inc one st in next st] twice, p 2- 76 (84, 92) sts. Change to larger needles and work as follows:

Row 1: K 10 (12, 14) color A, place marker on needle, k 4 color A, k 4 color C, place marker on needle, k 16 (18, 20) color C, place marker on needle, k 4 color C, k 4 color B, place marker on needle, k 16 (18, 20) color B, place marker on needle, k 4 color A, place marker on needle, k 10 (12, 14) color A. Keeping color sequence as established, work to correspond to back until armholes measure 5 ¼ (5 ¾, 6 ¼) inches, ending with wrong side row- 58 (64, 70) sts.

Shape Neck: On next row work 20 (22, 24) sts, sl center 18 (20, 22) sts to holder, join another ball of yarn and work last 20 (22, 24) sts. Working on both sides at once, at each neck edge bind off 2 sts every other row twice; then decone st at same edge every other row twice. Work even on 14 (16, 18) sts of each side until armholes measure 7 ¼ (7 ¾, 8 ¼) inches.

Shape Shoulders: Left Side: At arm edge bind off first 1 (2, 3) sts, k 2 tog (dec st), bind off dec st, bind off next 2 sts, k 2 tog (dec st), bind off dec st, bind off remaining sts. Fasten off.

Right Side: Row 1: Work in pattern as established.

Row 2: Bind off in same manner as left side, working p 2 tog for dec st.

SLEEVES: Using smaller straight needles and color A, cast on 40 (44, 48) sts. K 1, p1 in ribbing for 3 ½ inches, inc 6 sts, evenly spaced, across last row- 46 (50, 54) sts. Change to larger needles and work in stockinette (k 1 row, p 1 row), inc one st each end of needle every 3 (3 ¼, 3 ¼) inches 4 times. Work even on 54 (58, 62) sts until piece measures 17 ½ (17 ½, 18) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Full-Fashioned Cap: At beginning of each of next 2 rows bind off 5 (5, 6) sts.

Row 3: K 2, k 2 tog, k to last 4 sts, sl 1, k1, psso, k2.

Rows 4, 6: P.

Row 5: K.

Repeat last 4 rows 7 (8, 9) times; then repeat Rows 3 and 4 ONLY 2 (2, 1) times. K 2 tog across row- 12 (13, 14) sts. Bind off.

Finishing: Matching colors, sew shoulder seams, sew underarm and sleeve seams. Set in sleeves.

Neckband: With right side facing, using double pointed needles and color B, pick up and k 86 (90, 94) sts around neck edge, including sts from holders. K1, p 1 in ribbing for 5 inches. Bind off loosely in ribbing.

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48: Fall’s Favorite Sweater

(id: a full color photo of a woman on the cover of a craft magazine wearing a brown sweater. it has bell sleeves but is otherwise simple. she’s wearing a brown, leaf patterned accent scarf.)

Pub. October 1982

Fall’s Favorite Sweater

“The perfect top for slacks and jeans is this knitted boat neck pullover. Directions are given for size 10 with changes for sizes 12, 14, 16 and 18 in parentheses. You will need 11 (11, 12, 12, 13) 50 gram balls of Nomis Arktis yarn and number 5 standard knitting needles (or size necessary to obtain gauge below.) Arktis yarn is a thick-thin yarn of wool, Acrylic and Polyamid.”

Abbreviations:

K (knit)

P (purl)

Inc (increase)

Dec (decrease)

St (stitch)

 Gauge:

5 sts equal 1 inch

7 rows equal 1 inch

TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE

 BACK: Cast on 84 (88, 92, 98, 102) sts. K 3 rows (garter stitch) then work in stockinette (k 1 row, p 1 row) until piece measures 14 ½ (14 ½, 15, 15 ½, 16) inches from beginning or to desired length.

 Armhole: Bind off 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts at beginning of next 2 rows. Dec one st each end of needle ever k row 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) times. Work in stockinette until armhole measures 7 (7 ⅓, 7 ½, 7 ¾, 8) inches.

 Shoulders: Bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) sts at beginning of next 6 (6, 2, 6, 6) rows, then bind off 0 (0, 5, 0, 0) sts at beginning of next 4 rows. P next k row on right side of work for turn of hem at neck. Inc one st each side on next 5 rows. Bind off.

 FRONT: Work same as back.

 Finish neck: Sew shoulder seams. Turn hem under at neck edge and sew loosely in place.

 SLEEVES: Cast on 68 (72, 76, 78, 80) sts. Work 5 rows garter st then work in stockinette, dec one st each end of needle every 3 ½ inches 3 times- 62 (66, 70, 72, 74) sts. Work until sleeve measures 16 ½ (17, 17 ½, 18, 18 ½) inches or desired length. Bind off 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts at beginning of next 2 rows. Dec one st each end of needle every k row 15 (16, 18, 18, 19) times. Bind off 2 sts at beginning of next 6 rows. Bind off remaining 10 sts. Set in sleeves. Sew side seams and sleeve seams. Work in ends and block. 

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48: Child’s Patterned Pullover

(id: a full color photo of a small child modeling the pullover. it’s yellow and has raised, horizontal stripes in the same shade of yellow as the rest of the pullover. there is a simple bow attached to the collar. the kid is holding a pair of stuffed dogs.)

Pub. October 1982

Child’s Patterned Pullover

“A sweater for either boy or girl- just add the bow for a feminine touch. Directions are given for size 6 with changes for sizes 8 and 10 in parentheses. Our model was made with Bucilla Spectator sport yarn available in 2 ounce balls. You will need 8 (10, 10) ounces yarn, numbers 3 and 5 standard knitting needles (or sizes required for gauge), number 3 double pointed needles and size G crochet hook.”

Abbreviations:

K (knit)

Sl (slip)

Inc (increase)

Ch (chain)

Tog (together)

P (purl)

St (stitch)

Dec (decrease)

Yo (yarn over)

Psso (pass slip stitch over)

 Gauge: 6 sts equal 1 inch

8 rows equal 1 inch

 Finished Measurements: Chest- 26 (27, 29) inches

TO SAVE TIME, MAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE

 Pattern Stitch: 

Rows 1, 3, 5, 7: K.

Rows 2, 4,6: P.

Row 8: K 1, *yo, k 2, sl yo over the 2 k sts, repeat from * across, end k 1.

 BACK: Using smaller needles, cast on 78 (82, 88) sts. Work in ribbing (k 1, p 1) for 1 ½ inches. Change to larger needles. Work in pattern st until piece measures 10 (11, 11 ½) inches. End with wrong side row.

 Shape Raglan Armhole: At beginning of next two rows, bind off 4 (5, 5) sts. 

Row 3: k 2, k 2 tog, continue in pattern st across to last 4 sts, sl 1, k 1, psso, k 2.

Row 4: Work even in pattern st. Repeat the last 2 rows 21 (22, 24) times more. Sl remaining 26 (26, 28) sts to holder. 

 FRONT: Work to correspond to back until there are 38 (38, 40) sts on needle. End right side row.

Shape Neck: Work 12 sts, sl center 14 (14, 16) sts to holder, join another ball of yarn, work remaining 12 sts. Working both sides at once, continue to dec one st at each arm edge every other row 6 times more. AT THE SAME TIME, bind off 2 sts at each neck edge 3 times. 

 SLEEVES: Using smaller needles, cast on 40 (40, 44) sts. Work in ribbing (k 1, p 1) for 2 ½ inches. Change to larger needles and work pattern st, inc one st each end of needle every ¾ inch 9 (11, 11) times- 58 (62, 66) sts. Continue in pattern st until piece measures 11 (12, 12 ½) inches. End same pattern row as on back.

 Shape Raglan Armhole: At beginning of each of next 2 rows, bind off 4 (5, 5) sts. Dec in same manner as on back. Sl remaining 6 sts to holder. 

 Finishing: Sew sleeves to back and front armholes. Sew underarm seam. 

 Neckband: Using double pointed needles, with right side facing, pick up 88 (88, 92) sts around neck edge, including sts from holders. Work in ribbing for 1 inch. Bind off loosely in ribbing. Block to size. 

 Bow on Girl’s Sweater: Make a chain 15 inches long. Work sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off. Tie in small bow and fasten to neck as shown. 

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48: Solid Cable Pullover

(id: a full color photo of a cover photo of a craft magazine. a woman is modeling a brown knitted sweater.)

Pub. October 1982

Fall’s Favorite Sweater

“The perfect top for slacks and jeans is this knitted boat neck pullover. Directions are given for size 10 with changes for sizes 12, 14, 16 and 18 in parentheses. You will need 11 (11, 12, 12, 13) 50 gram balls of Nomis Arktis yarn and number 5 standard knitting needles (or size necessary to obtain gauge below.) Arktis yarn is a thick-thin yarn of wool, Acrylic and Polyamid.”

Abbreviations:

K (knit)

P (purl)

Inc (increase)

Dec (decrease)

St (stitch)

 Gauge:

5 sts equal 1 inch

7 rows equal 1 inch

TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE

 BACK: Cast on 84 (88, 92, 98, 102) sts. K 3 rows (garter stitch) then work in stockinette (k 1 row, p 1 row) until piece measures 14 ½ (14 ½, 15, 15 ½, 16) inches from beginning or to desired length.

 Armhole: Bind off 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts at beginning of next 2 rows. Dec one st each end of needle ever k row 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) times. Work in stockinette until armhole measures 7 (7 ⅓, 7 ½, 7 ¾, 8) inches.

 Shoulders: Bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) sts at beginning of next 6 (6, 2, 6, 6) rows, then bind off 0 (0, 5, 0, 0) sts at beginning of next 4 rows. P next k row on right side of work for turn of hem at neck. Inc one st each side on next 5 rows. Bind off.

 FRONT: Work same as back.

 Finish neck: Sew shoulder seams. Turn hem under at neck edge and sew loosely in place.

 SLEEVES: Cast on 68 (72, 76, 78, 80) sts. Work 5 rows garter st then work in stockinette, dec one st each end of needle every 3 ½ inches 3 times- 62 (66, 70, 72, 74) sts. Work until sleeve measures 16 ½ (17, 17 ½, 18, 18 ½) inches or desired length. Bind off 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts at beginning of next 2 rows. Dec one st each end of needle every k row 15 (16, 18, 18, 19) times. Bind off 2 sts at beginning of next 6 rows. Bind off remaining 10 sts. Set in sleeves. Sew side seams and sleeve seams. Work in ends and block. 

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48: Watermelon Ensemble

(id: a photo of the watermelon ensemble in a craft magazine. there is a small key chain, bookmark (in a book), pot holder (shaped so that a chunk appear to be cut from it, resulting in a pac-man like shape), and refrigerator magnet, all of which are watermelons.)

Pub. October 1982

Watermelon Ensemble

“The watermelon motif adds a bright cheerful touch and can be used for pot holders, key rings, refrigerator magnets and bookmarks. To make the entire collection, you will need 2 ounces red worsted weight yarn, small amounts of white, green, and black, a magnetic strip for the refrigerator magnet, key chain, ribbon for the bookmark and size G crochet hook.”

Abbreviations: 

Ch (chain)

Rnd (round)

Sc (single crochet)

Tog (together)

St (stitch)

Inc (increase)

Dc (double crochet)

Sl st (slip stitch)

Hdc (half double crochet)

POT HOLDER: With red, ch 4 join with sl st to form ring. Ch 3, work 17 dc in ring, join with sl st to top of starting ch-3. (End each rnd this way.)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st as joining, work inc in each dc around. (To work inc, work 2 sts in same st.) Join. 

Rnd 3: Ch 3, work inc, *dc in next dc, work inc, repeat from * around, join. 

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in joining st, dc in next 2 dc, *work inc, dc in next 2 dc, repeat from * around, join. 

Rnd 5: Work as for Rnd 4, having 3 dc between inc, join. 

Rnd 6: Work as before, having 4 dc between inc, fasten off red. 

Rnd 7: Join white in last st and work even in sc, join with sl st to first sc, fasten off. 

Rnd 8: Join green and work as for Rnd 4, having 5 dc between inc. At end of rnd join with sl st to top of ch 3, ch 5, sl st in same st as joining to form hanging loop. 

Fold in half wrong sides tog and whip edges tog. With black yarn and using double strand, embroider stitches randomly placed on red section to represent seeds. 

KEY CHAIN: Work as for pot holder through Rnd 1. 

Rnd 2: Working in hdc, work inc in each dc around, fasten off. 

Rnd 3: With white, work 1 sc in each hdc around, fasten off. 

Rnd 4: With green, *sc in next 5 sc, work inc, repeat from * around, fasten off. 

Make seeds as before, using single strand of black yarn. Sew edges tog with green yarn. Open jump ring of chain on key holder and insert through several thicknesses of yarn at one end. Close jump ring firmly. 

REFRIGERATOR MAGNET: Work as for key ring; glue magnetic strip to back. 

BOOKMARK: Work as for key ring, inserting end of ribbon between front and back before sewing seam. 

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48

Pub. October 1982

(id: a photo of a photo of the martian and astronaut toys in the original craft magazine. it’s in black and white- the astronaut is white, and the martian is a grey-ish color. in someone’s handwriting it says “stacey” above the astronaut and “chris” above the martian. they’re “sitting”)

Martian and Astronaut

“Beep! Beep! Beep! Now landing from outer space, our astronaut has brought back a friendly Martian, complete with antennae and funny ears! Made over a frozen juice can, the Martian and astronaut could hold a child’s jacks, marbles or other small treasures. Worsted weight yarn and a size G crochet hook are used. The martian is made of 2 ounces light green and a small amount of red. The astronaut requires 2 ounces white, 1 ounce pink and a small amount of black. You will also need two 6 ounce juice cans, small amounts of stuffing and a pipe cleaner for the Martian’s antennae.”

Abbreviations:

St (stitch)

Rnd (round)

Sc (single crochet)

S st (slip stitch)

Ch (chain)

Tog (together)

Dc (double crochet)

MARTIAN: Use light green for entire Martian except eyes and mouth. 

Body: Rnd 1: Ch 3, 10 dc in 3rd ch from hook, join. 

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each dc around, join. 

Rnd 3: Ch 2, working in back loop this rnd only, dc in each dc around, join. 

Rnds 4 through 13: Ch 2, *dc in dc, dc around post of next dc, repeat from * around, join, fasten off after Rnd 13. Be sure body is long enough to cover can. 

Legs: (Make 2) Rnd 1: Ch 12, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2 dc in each dc around, join. 

Rnds 2 through 6: Ch 2, *dc in dc, dc around post of next dc, repeat from * around, join. 

End 7: Ch 2, dc 2 tog around, join. 

Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in 2 dc, 2 dc in 2 dc, sc in 2 dc, join. 

Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in 3 st, 2 dc in dc, sc in 2 st, join. 

Rnd 10: Work in back loop this rnd only, ch 1, sc in each st around, join, fasten off. Sew opening shut. Stuff legs firmly and sew to bottom front of body. 

Arms: (Make 2) Rnd 1: Ch 10, leaving long tail for sewing, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2, dc in each ch around, join. 

Rnds 2 through 6: Ch 2, *dc in dc, dc around post of next dc, repeat from * around, join. 

Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc 2 tog around, dc in last dc, join. 

Rnd 8: Ch 2, 2 dc in each dc around, join. 

Rnd 9: Ch 2, dc in each dc around, join.

Rnd 10: Ch 2, (dc 2 tog) 3 times, (sc 2 tog) twice, sl st in first ch, fasten off, sew opening shut. Stuff arms lightly. Do not stuff hands, sew to top sides of body. 

Thumb: (Make 2) Rnd 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ch, ch 1, turn. 

Rnd 2: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn.

Rnd 3: Sc in each sc across, fasten off. Fold thumb in half, sew. Sew thumb to hand. 

Head: Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, do not join rnds. 

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around, mark beginning of rnds. 

Rnd 3: *Sc in sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around. 

Rnd 4: *Sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around. 

Rnd 5: *Sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around. 

Rnd 6: *Sc in 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around.

Rnds 7 through 12: Sc in each sc around. 

Rnd 13: *Sc in 2 sc, sc 2 tog, repeat from * around. 

Rnd 14 *Sc in 3 sc, sc 2 tog, repeat from * around. 

Rnd 15: *Sc in 2 sc, sc 2 tog, repeat from * around. 

Rnd 16: 8Sc in sc, sc 2 tog, repeat from * around. Stuff head firmly. 

Rnd 17: Sc 2 tog around, fasten off. 

Ears: (Make 2) Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. 

Row 2: Sc 2 tog, sc in sc, sc 2 tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc 2 tog, sc in sc, ch 1, turn. 

Row 4: Sc in each sc, fasten off. Sew ears to sides of head. 

Antennae: (Make 2) Ch 11, holding pipe cleaner against ch, sc over pipe cleaner, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each sc across, fasten off. Make small pompom and sew to end of antenna. Sew antennae to top of head. 

Eyes: (Make 2) Rnd 1: With red, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 

Rnd 2: Sc in each sc around. 

Rnd 3: Sc in each sc around, fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Sew eyes to face. 

Mouth: Rnd 1: With red, ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 

Rnds 2, 3: Sc in each sc around. 

Rnd 4: Sc in each sc around, fasten off leaving long tail for sewing mouth to face. 

Head sits on open end of can. 

ASTRONAUT: Using white, work body, legs, arms and thumb same as Martian. Make head with pink, same as Martian. 

Helmet: Rnd 1: With white, ch 2 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, do not join rnds. 

Rnds 2 through 6: Work same as Rnds 2 through 6 of head. 

Rnds 7, 8: Sc in each sc around. 

Row 9: Sc in 28 sc, ch 1, turn. 

Rows 10 through 14: Sc in 28 sc, ch 1, turn. 

Rnd 15: Sc in 28 sc, ch 7, sl st in first sc. 

Rnd 16: Sc in 28 sc, sc in each of 7 ch.

Rnd 17: Sc in each sc around, fasten off. 

Nose: With pink, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, fasten off and sew to face.

Finishing: Embroider eyes with black yarn. Slip helmet over head. Head sits on open end of can. 

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48

(id: a photo of a black and white photo in the original craft book. it shows the cat, with short, messy “fur”, pointed felt ears, and a little ribbon around its neck.)

Pub. October 1982

Cuddly Cat

“A soft cuddly cat is adorable on a child’s bed- or in her arms. Materials needed are 5 ½ ounces white and 3 ½ ounces light brown Coats and Clark Red Heart® 4-ply handknitting yarn, size K crochet hook, pair of medium size novelty eyes, scraps of white and black felt, ¾ yard ⅝ inch wide satin ribbon, polyester stuffing and a yard of black buttonhole thread.”

Abbreviations: 

Ch (chain)

Rnd (round)

Sl st (slip stitch)

St (stitch)

Dc (double crochet)

Inc (increase)

HEAD: With white ch4. Join with sl st to form ring. 

Rnd 1: Ch 3, work 9 dc in ring. Join to top of ch 3-10 dc (counting ch 3 as 1 dc). 

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in joining, *2 dc in next dc- 1 dc inc, repeat from * around. Join as before- 20 sts.

Rnd 3: Ch 3, inc 4 dc evenly spaced, dc in next dc and in each dc around. Join as before- 24 sts. 

Rnds 4, 5, 6: Ch 3, dc in next dc and in each dc around. Join as before. At end of Rnd 6 fasten off, leaving a 12 inch end. Stuff head and draw the 12 inch end through sts of last rnd; pull together and secure. 

BODY: With white ch 19 loosely.

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across- 17 sts, ch 3, turn. 

Rows 2 through 8: Dc in next dc and in each dc across, dc in top of ch 3, ch 3, turn. At end of Row 8 fasten off leaving an 18 inch end. With this end sew sts of last row to opposite side of starting ch to form a tube. Draw yarn through end sts of rows on one end, pull together and secure. Stuff body and close other end in same manner. 

LEGS: (Make 4) With white ch 10 loosely. 

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across- 8 sts, ch 3, turn. 

Row 2: Dc in next dc and in each dc across, dc in top of ch 3. Fasten off, leaving an end for sewing. Sew sts of last row to opposite side of starting chain. 

TAIL: With white ch 17 loosely. Work same as leg over 15 sts and sew in same manner. 

FUR: To Make a Bundle: Using 1 strand of white and 1 strand of light brown held together or using 2 strands of same color held together, wind double strand 8 times around a 2 inch piece of cardboard. Fasten off.

Draw an 8 inch length of yarn around strands at one end and tie securely. Slip from cardboard and sew bundle to crocheted base and cut strands at opposite end.

Continue to make bundles, alternating colors as desired to cover head and body, except the areas where head and body will be joined; then cover legs and tail on one side only.

Sew head, legs and tail in place.

Trim fur.

From white felt, shape and cut nose and 2 small crescents for outline of eyes. Glue or tack felt pieces and eyes in place. Saturate 4 strands of black buttonhole thread, each 5 inches long, with clear drying glue and draw through base of head inline with nose to form whiskers.

Tie ribbon around neck and make a bow. 

[oldcraftbooks]

Workbasket #1 Vol. 48

(id: a photo of a black and white photo in the original craft book. it’s of a large, checkered afghan blanket, draped over a rocking chair.)

Pub. October 1982

Checquers Afghan

“This bright colored afghan with the interesting texture is made of Coats & Clark 4 ply worsted weight yarn available in 3.5 ounce skeins. Use 7 skeins color A (dark turquoise), 6 skeins color B (nile green), 3 skeins color C (vermillion), size I afghan hook (14 inch), size I crochet hook and yarn needle.”

Abbreviations:

k (knit)

lp (loop)

sk (skip)

ch (chain)

sc (single crochet)

p (purl)

st (stitch)

sp (space)

tog (together)

sl st (slip stitch)

Gauge:

4 sts = 1 inch

3 rows = 1 inch

Finished square measures 10 x 10 inches. Finished afghan measures 52.5 x 71.5 inches.

TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE.

* Note: Mark bottom of each square with small scrap of contrasting color yarn so all squares will be sewn together correctly and not inadvertently turned upside down or sideways.

Smocked Afghan Stitch Squares: Work 18 squares color A, 17 squares color B. With afghan hook, ch 30.

Row 1: First Half: Pick up lp in each ch to end- 30 lps on hook.

Second Half: Work off each lp as for regular afghan st. (Yo, draw through first lp, yo, draw through 2 lps. Continue across row. Last lp always remains on hook and counts as first st of next row.)

* Note: Last st on first half of each row is always worked in knit st. Knit st in afghan st is the regular method as described in Row 1. Purl st is worked with yarn in front and is described in Row 2.

Row 2: First Half: (Start of smocked afghan st pattern) Pick up first st in regular manner (knit st) (2 lps on hook), with yarn to front, insert hook in 3rd upright bar, yo, pull lp through (purl st), *k 1 st, p 1 st, repeat from * across to end with last st being worked in k st.

Second Half: Work off all lps as before.

Row 3: First Half: With first lp on hook, pick up 1 k st in each of next 2 upright bars (3 lps on hook), *p next st, k next st, repeat from * across, working last 2 sts in k.

Second Half: Work off all lps as before.

Continue as above alternating Rows 2 and 3 for a total of 23 rows. At end of 23rd row (right hand side of work), ch 1 tightly (this forms a neat corner stitch), bind off working in k, p, k, p sts as established with last 2 sts being bound off in k st. Do not cut yarn.

BORDER:

Rnd 1: Witch crochet hook and using same color yarn as square, ch 3 sc at base of ch 3 (this forms first corner), *ch 1, sk 1 row, sc in end of next row*, repeat between *’s to corner ending with ch 1, work (sc, ch 2, sc) in 2nd corner of square. **Ch 1, sk one st, sc in next st (be sure to work through double lp at end sts); continue from ** as established. Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in 3rd and 4th corners, ending last side with ch 1, sl st to first ch of starting ch 3. Fasten off, pull through to reverse side and carefully weave end in neatly on reverse side.

Rnd 2: (Work all squares the same.) With color C, join yarn in any ch 2 corner sp, ch 3, sc in same ch 2 corner sp, ch 1, sc in next ch 1 sp, repeat between *’s of Rnd 1 to next corner ending with ch 1, work (sc, ch 2, sc) in second corner. Continue around as established ending with ch 1, sl st to first ch of starting ch 3. Fasten off, pull through to reverse side and carefully weave in neatly on reverse side.

Note: Block all squares before sewing together, being careful not to crush smocked afghan stitch pattern.

Using color C, keeping seams firm yet flexible and being sure to match patterns and squares, sew squares into strips picking up back lp only of adjoining squares. Alternate colors.

First, 3rd and 5th strips: Sew top of first color A square to bottom of first color B square. Continue alternating 7 squares.

2nd and 4th strips: Sew top of color B square to bottom of color A square. Continue alternating 7 squares.

Sew strips together with color C, forming a “checquerboard” of contrasting colors.

OUTSIDE BORDER: (Worked around outer edge of entire afghan)

Rnd 1: With color C, join yarn in any ch 2 corner sp, ch 3, sc in same sp. Ch 1, *sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, repeat from * to next corner working (sc, ch 2, sc) in 2nd corner sp. Repeat as established around ending with ch 1, join with sl st to first ch of starting ch 3 (at seams, there should be one sc in last st of each square, ch 1 across seam, and sc in first st of next square). Sl st to center of ch 2 corner sp (this puts yarn in position for next rnd).

Rnd 2: Ch 3, sc in same sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, repeat from * to 2nd corner working (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch 2 corner sp. Continue around as for Rnd 1 as established. Sl to center of ch 2 corner sp.

Rnd 3: Ch 3, sc in same sp. Continue around as for Rnd 2, ending with ch 1, join with sl st to first ch of starting ch 3. Fasten off, draw to reverse side and weave end in neatly.

If desired, entire afghan may be seamed lightly, being sure not to crush patterns, to give finished, professional appearance.