mikebulgaria

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View from route back from Blagoevgrad.

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The Golden Bridges up close with me.

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The Umbrellas of Blagoevgrad!

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The Golden Bridges or my twelve mile hike up and down Vitosha

I asked for a hiking recommendation of one of my students here in Sofia - she said take tram 5 to the end and you’ll see the path when you get off - very obvious and then  - The Golden Bridges.  Sounds like a easy hike with a something cool to see at the end - right?.  No - they are not bridges made of gold but rocks - boulders really running down the side of the mountain like a boulder creek  - a really big boulder creek. My student didn't tell the hike was twelve miles - but I can tell you it was worth the sore legs! Absolutely like nothing I’ve ever seen.

Maybe mile 2.......

The delightful Bulgarian family that convinced me I was on the correct trail and only and hour and a half to go!  The young woman works in London for Barkley's Bank and the young mans is enrolled in Sofia University.  

Stone River - Golden Bridges - Zlatnite Mostove in Bulgarian - is the largest stone river on Vitosha Mountain, Bulgaria. The feature is situated in the valley of Vladayska River, extending 2.2 km, (1.3 miles) and up to 150 m (492 feet) wide, with several ‘tributary’ stone rivers. The stone river is ‘descending’ from elevation 1800 m (5905 ft.) above sea level  to 1410 m (4625 ft.) at Zlatnite Mostove site. The name ‘Golden Bridges’ derives from the golden color of the lichens growing on the surface of stone run boulders. I was at the lower Zlatnite Mostove site. 

If you look closely you can see some orange in the center of the picture - those are people - just to give you some scale.

Zoomed in.....

Only six miles to go  - to get back down!

A view of Sofia - and someone fancy new house being built - about halfway down.

Vitosha  - from below.

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Spring in Bulgaria

Spring arrived in Sofia about a month ago in the form of these boxed flowers! Early harbingers of spring in take home containers - pansies, hyacinth, daffodils and tulips. Nothing was stirring in the earth but every corner flower shops as chock full of spring!

A Martenitsa  is a small piece of adornment, made of white and red yarn and usually in the form of two dolls, a male and a female. Martenitsi are worn from Baba Marta Day (March 1) until the wearer first sees a stork, swallow, or blossoming tree (or until late March). The name of the holiday means "Grandma March" in Bulgarian and the holiday and the wearing of Martenitsi are a Bulgarian tradition related to welcoming the spring, which according to Bulgarian folklore begins in March  Folks exchange these wrist and coat adornments with each other on March first- so you usually end up having a wrist-ful of red and white bracelets!

A tree full of “martenitsa” in Plovdiv.

Primrose  - near my bus station 45 - if the bus is going to be longer than ten minutes - I start walking - stop at the Lidel grocery store and get a croissant for .30  - and cross the intersection and wait for the bus at the next stop.  Good or bad it doesn't happen very often - but the croissants are cheap and good!

Fancy primrose.

Interior “plant “ pictures from the Nevsky Cathedral.

Tulip beds near NDK.

Beautiful flowering bush.

Lamb’s head - at the Ladies Market - getting ready for Easter.

Tomato plants for sale at the Ladies Market.

Just trying to help you forget the lamb’s head.

And then winter came back today - looks like upstate NY.

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Happy Easter

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Berlin

I visited a former Sage student - Hannah Moss - in her new hometown Berlin, Germany - she is living and studying opera there.  Since we were on the same continent it was easy enough to hop a Ryan-air jet and spend a weekend with her.  We had a lovely time catching up, exploring Berlin, eating traditional German  and street food and walking - a lot! 

I was in Berlin when I was twenty two - thirty two years ago - and it is a different place!  The wall was still up when I was there back in the early 80′s - so East Berlin was accessible through the infamous Checkpoint  Charlie - still there but now located in the Allied Museum. I remember going though the checkpoint and exchanging money that you could not bring back into west Berlin.  We ate a lot of ice cream that day, I bought some sheet music - and gave the rest of my money to a woman who was sitting on a park bench. We were late getting back to the checkpoint and were quite panicked that somehow we wouldn't be able to leave.  Needless to say we got out!  Strange enough - it is the eastern section of Berlin that seems to be the happening part of town.  When we visited the area of Berlin that I remembered - the west - it was not as interesting as the old East Berlin part of town.  The public transportation is excellent - the U-bahn and S-bahn, trams (which only run in the old east Berlin side), and buses were a great way to get around town.

Dorotheenstadt

At the Berlin Wall memorial - the steel bars represent the wall structures placement in the memorial park.

Brandenburg Gate

Monument to Beethoven, Mozart and Haydn in the Tiergarten - the large central park in Berlin.

A different kind of garden - a beer garten!

Gendarmenmarkt - The twin churches The German church is on the left and the French church is on the right), concert hall and a monument to Schiller - who wrote the “Ode to Joy” poem that Beethoven set to music in his 9th Symphony.

Shout out to my girls!  Hi Hannio and Dooey......

Spring in Berlin!

Charlottenburg Palace

We visited the Pergamon Museum - one of five museums on what is called Museum Island - a work of art in its own right - a collection of museums that sit on an island in the river Spree. We spent a morning in the Pergamon which houses The Ishtar Gate, the Processional Way, the Market Gate of Miletus, and the Museum of Islamic Art.  

The Ishtar Gate-  The Ishtar Gate was the eighth gate to the inner city of Babylon. It was constructed in about 575 BC by order of King Nebuchadnezzar II on the north side of the city. It was excavated in the early 20th century and a reconstruction using original bricks. Really beautiful Persian tile work.

Detail of the procession street -  Lions and flowers decorated this processional street.

Market Gate of Miletus - It was built in Miletus in the 2nd century AD and destroyed in an earthquake in the 10th or 11th century. Only fragments had survived and reconstruction involved significant new material - so mostly newer material - but still impressive.

Detail of carving

Aleppo Room -  Wooden wall covering with paintings, reception hall from a house in Aleppo, commissioned by the Christian broker Isa ibn Butrus (Jesus, son of Peter). from the early 17th century -  stunning - like a painter Persian rug.

A series of pictures of Islamic tile and rug detail.

Thanks for the great time in Berlin Hannah!  

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Visitors to Sophia

Andy and Sally Nelsen from Lansingburgh, NY visited at the end of March. They are members of the Sage Singers and the St. Augustine choir. Sally flew from Florida - where they have a new snowbird home and Andy flew in from just seeing the Sand-Hill Crane migration in the Mid-West. We had a lovely week exploring Sofia, attending a few cultural events, and travelling to a few places outside the city of Sofia.  

Andy and Sally outside St. Sofia Basilica.

The Monastery of Saint Ivan of Rila, better known as the Rila Monastery  is the largest and most famous Eastern Orthodox monastery in Bulgaria. It is situated in the southwestern Rila Mountains, about 70 miles south of the capital Sofia in the deep valley of the Rilska River inside of Rila Monastery Nature Park. The monastery is named after its founder, the hermit Ivan of Rila (876 - 946 AD), and today houses around 60 monks. A really interesting place in the seemingly in the middle of nowhere - the architecture seems to have Moorish and other influences.  There a beautiful frescos - painted quite ornately - on the inside and outside the main chapel. 

Folks being pulled into the River Fire of Damnation.

Seaside scene.

These interiors are stock pictures as they do not let you take pictures inside the chapel - Andy.  You can see every inch is covered - really quite breathtaking.  It is certainly a stark contrast from the exterior courtyard simplicity.

A VISIT TO PLOVDIV

Plovdiv is the second-largest city in Bulgaria. Plovdiv has evidence of habitation since the 6th millennium BC when the first Neolithic settlements were established. It is said to be one of the oldest cities in the world.  The city historically developed on seven  hills. Because of these hills, Plovdiv is often referred to in Bulgaria as "The City of the Seven Hills". Just to be clear - there are only six hills left as the communists quarried one of the hills for cobble stone street pavement. It a charming small city - about half a million people live in the Plovdiv region.There are numerous preserved Roman remains such as the ancient Plovdiv Roman theater, Roman odeon, Roman aqueduct and the Roman Stadium. Plovdiv will be hosting the European Capital of Culture in 2019 - so the place is getting spiffed up!

The Old Town of Plovdiv is a historic preservation site known for its Bulgarian Renaissance architectural style. The Old Town covers the area of the three central hills. Almost every house in the Old Town has its characteristic decoration.

The Roman Theater - one of the best preserved in the world.  It is still used for concerts and events today.

The Ancient stadium of Philippopolis. 

Djumaya Mosque - There is a lovely Turkish Tea cafe right behind the mosque. Delightful. 

BACK IN SOFIA 

We explored the subterranean excavations in the St. Sofia Basilica.  Lovely mosaic tile floors and lots of tombs - the remains of the ancient Roman necropolis.

St. George - slaying the dragon - he seems to be a popular saint here in Bulgaria. Thanks for the visit Sally and Andy - was fun!

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Sofia at Night II

Just a few leftover shots of some of my night time views.  The warm evenings have allowed me to travel a bit further from the center of Sofia the past week or so.  

The full moon on Tuesday April 11.  There was a guy with a telescope in Congress Square raising money to fix the local observatory.  He let folks take pictures with their phones. You could also see Jupiter and a few of its moons that circle it - cool!

NDK at dusk - The National Palace of Culture.  A  multi use socialist building from the 80′s - still in use today - it has a number of concert halls, theaters, convention space and restaurants.

NDK at night.

A small market open late.

A horse paddock in the middle of Sofia - part of the largest park in the central part of Sofia - Boris’s Garden Park named so in honor of Tsar Boris III (1918–1943). The horse is in the middle of the frame behind the fence.

A quiet night in  Boris’s Garden Park.

Some of the tennis courts in the woodsy section of  Boris’s Garden Park.

I stumbled upon these......these....I’m not sure what these are? Anyway they are located in the beautiful South Park. 

An old gate near my apartment.

The night time view from my apartment balcony....it looks like a movie set.

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Sofia at Night

I spend many evenings wandering around Sofia widening the circle I travel each time I go out. These are a series of pictures from some of the night time views of Sofia - the capital of Bulgaria.  The weather has been relatively mild since I got here - relative to me regularly living in upstate New York. Forty-five degrees with no wind or snow was an upgrade for February. Sofia is generally pretty quiet at night and I always see things and places wandering around during my night-time “walk about”.

Probably the most famous night view in Sofia. The St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral  is a Bulgarian Orthodox cathedral in Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria. Built in Neo-Byzantine style, it is one of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world, as well as one of Sofia's symbols and primary tourist attractions. The St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral can hold 10,000 people inside. It is the second-largest cathedral located on the Balkan Peninsula.

A pano shot!

A shot from the front of the Cathedral.

An interior shot of the Cathedral.

A shot from the front portico of the Cathedral - beautiful carved stone work around these side doors. 

The other side of the portico - beautiful ironwork.

In my opinion - the best view of the Nevsky Cathedral - you just have to be careful of oncoming two way traffic!

When you need to see and eat something familiar.

Sofia’s immaculate metro system - It’s about 11;20 pm - and yes - that is a worker sweeping the platform on the left side of the picture.

The Bulgarian National Theater.

It’s not as scary as it looks - just a gate on a street near where I live.

Another doorway.....

Socialist Era statues on a bridge over the canal on Levski Boulevard. There are four statues in total on this bridge.

Another socialist era statue - note the woman holding the machine gun in her right arm and the grenade on her left side waist!  Not quite night time but there are no lights here at night. I do find it ironic that they are marching off into the setting sun - towards the WEST!

Street views.....

One of the “wild” dogs of Sofia - while not friendly by any means I have never felt any danger from the numerous dogs throughout the city.

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Still in Bulgaria - with Ed and Sam!

I have been in Bulgaria almost two months - I need to catch up on some posts! Since I last blogged much has happened in my part of the world.  I left NYC after the NYMF weekend and instantly met up with two students from Russell Sage College.  Sam and Ed - they were spending their spring break with me in Sofia - exploring the city some and traveling to Rome for a few days in the Eternal City!  We had a wonderful time catching up, travelling, and just hanging out. Sam just was accepted to Yale University and was justifiable flying high from that and Ed was ready to see if Bulgaria was ready for him. We had a great time as our pictures will demonstrate.

At the US Ambassadors residence with Sam and Ed for a Bulgarian Holocaust Remembrance Day event. 

Playing chess in the Cultural Park with a crafty old Bulgarian - I lost needless to say.  Ed and Sam are taking the picture and laughing at their professor.....respect!

Sam and Ed outside of Saint Sofia Basilica - in the city centre of Sofia.

In Rome - an obliviously beautiful day in the Eternal City - we walked roughly 30 miles in two days! We saw Rome - a lot of it.  We don’t look tired here yet because it’s early.  We almost did’nt make our flight out of Sofia - but that is a tale for another day  - or for Ed to tell.

The Colosseum!  Named after a huge statue that used to be next door - not the actual buildings name.

Another view.

The Roman Forum.

Pic in from of the Colosseum.

Spring in Rome.....

Pano of the Roman Forum.

Arch of Titus - Roman wings.  Beautiful.

Pantheon interior - after Sunday services.

Pantheon again.

Saint Peters Basilica - The Vatican.

Sam and Ed heading for dinner at a unknown location in an unknown suburb of Rome - an adventure in food and living!  Thanks for the visit guys!

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BACKBEARD at the NYMF

This has nothing to do with Bulgaria or my travels - just good news! Backbeard the Musical has been selected to be produced at the New York Musical Festival this coming summer. See link below from more info!  Yeah Matt, Larry and Brian and everyone else!

http://bit.ly/2ml92If

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Greece...had some more pics!

The view from Philosophers Hill.

Temple of Hephaistos - in the Ancient Agora - the center of Athenian democracy.  Probably the best preserved ancient Greek structure - dating from 5th century BC.

Reconstructed Stoa (market place building) by Rockefeller in the 1950′s - in the Ancient Agora.

Panoramic view from the step of the Acropolis.

Temple of the Olympian Zeus - one of the largest in the ancient world.  It consisted of 104 columns of which 16 survive. This stand below the Acropolis next to the National Gardens. They are BIG!

The Porch of The Caryatids -  attached to the Temple of Erechtheion.  These are reproductions - the originals are in the Acropolis Museum - except for one - which is in the British Museum. The infamous Lord Elgin had his hand in that business.

It was a beautiful day to explore the ancient ruins

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GREECE

So one of the great benefits of being a Fulbrighter in Europe is that you can travel within your host country and other countries as well.  Last weekend I was able to travel to Athens, Greece.  As you can see it was a sunny, clear beautiful day - and warm.  A perfect day to explore the Acropolis and the surrounding slopes.  It was beautiful - an uplifting experience.  I spent about 4 hours wandering around the Acropolis and nearby ruins. I clocked in a little over 30 miles over three days - so I saw a lot of Greece! Enjoy the pictures below.

Obviously we’re not in Bulgaria - but only a quick hours flight south!

The Parthenon from the back - you can see the rocky outcrop in the foreground.

Parthenon - a side view.

Acropolis - Night view from below at the Roman Agora (the gate of Athena).

Funereal sculpture form the Kerameikos - the oldest and largest cemetery in the outskirts of ancient Athens.

Another ancient - albeit temporary - Athenian!

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YUP THAT’S WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE..........................................Pet Peeve No.1

Have I lived in Sofia long enough to have a pet peeve? Well maybe not  - but I do have three pet peeves nonetheless- this is number one.  SMOKING.  It transports me back to my childhood just to see a ash tray and see loads of people smoking!  In Bulgaria you see them all over. While it is illegal to smoke in restaurants, public transport and public buildings - the law is not particularly followed shall we say. The picture is a trash can with an ash tray attached on top. This one happens to be at my daily bus stop  that I pick up at the metro station Vardar. BUS 45. Hey -  they are using the ash tray right? Bulgarian pet peeve number two and three?  Stay tuned....

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HOW THE MOUNTAIN IS - SO GOES MY DAY?

Well not quite - but I do look to the mountain everyday to see what the weather might be like and what the air might be like as well.  Sofia is a city with a lot of diesel cars and trucks and no emission controls.- so there can be smog and air quality issues.  But on a clear day the view of the mountain is arresting - in a city of some two million people to be able to see such a view of nature is inspiring.  The mountain can make my day I guess!  

Picture 1. 

The view from New Bulgarian University - Floor 5. This is where the Theater and Music Departments are housed.  I teach and practice on this floor.

Picture .2.

The view from Vitosha Avenue - a pedestrian shopping street in the city centre.

Picture 3. 

Vitosha Mountains

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It’s been two weeks tomorrow

I have been in Sofia, Bulgaria almost two weeks!  It is hard to believe so much and so little can happen in that time period.  I have connected with my colleagues at the New Bulgarian University and the National Academy of Music, figured out how to navigate the transit system and get myself where I need to be - which is pretty much nowhere yet!  So I have explored a lot, found a place to practice, set up some duo concerts for Babs and myself and met many wonderful, generous Bulgarians!  Please feel free to travel with me in this Eastern European world - a world that is fascinating, confusing, beautiful and all mine for the next  five months or so.  The picture above is the night time view from my third story apartment in centre Sofia - the capital of Bulgaria!  It looks appropriate for my very noir sounding blog title - Mike Bulgaria.  Welcome!