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Warsaw, Poland

(statue of Syrena Warzawaska, the Mermaid of Warsaw, to remember the Warsaw Uprising)

In March, 2017, I made my first ever trip to Warsaw, Poland.  My guides were Sonia Draga (a powerful publisher & retailer) and her wonderful colleagues, Krzysiek Ostrowski and Robert Ziebinski.  I did some reading into the history, it goes something like this: wedged between Russia, the Ottoman Empire, and Prussia (later, Nazi Germany), Poland basically got pounded by its neighbors for a thousand years.  It explains the somber literature, music and general outlook in life.

(Galonka, pork knuckle cooked in dark beer)

Sonia, Krzysiek and Robert talks about the current conservative Polish government as very effective in using mythology to gain power.  For example, it took a page out of the history from WWII, about a group of soldiers who refused to serve Nazi Germany, and mythologized them into heroes with songs, books, TV shows...etc.  The symbolism is one of us against them (usually Germany or Russia),

(best beef tatare I have ever had.  I think the secret was the crushed garlic)

You very quickly noticed that stores selling vodka are open 24 hours, and that vodka is cheaper than water.

(dumplings with warm bacon sauce)

I was determined to eat Polish food, but it was very difficult to find.  I passed through lots of Vietnamese, Japanese, Lebanese and Burger restaurants, but very few Polish restaurants.  When I finally did find one (and when my hosts took me to some), each place was full of tourists like me.  When asked why, my friends simply that said that they love sushi (or whatever), but when they want Polish food, they would make it at home, rather than go out (I have had similar experiences in Berlin and Paris)

(statue of Nicolau Copernicus)

I visited the Nicolau Copernicus Science Center. It was full of children touching everything, as everything in the center was designed to be touched.  For example, it had a model for you to load cargo onto a ship, and it explains water displacement and other fun facts. I had a great time.

(mural of Fryderyk Chopin)

I have always been interested in the story of Chopin.  A young prodigy born into French-occupied Poland, Chopin’s life was your classic soap opera of love affairs, feuds, illness and war.  His heart is buried at a nearby church.

There is a park outside the Chopin Museum, and on some park benches, you press a button and it plays Nocturne en mi bemol majeur opus 9.  It was Brilliant.

It was a brief 48-hours visit, but I left wanting to learn so much more about Poland and its people. I will be back.

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Live long and prosper, Leonard Nimoy. Thank you for inspiring countless rocket scientists, engineers, and astronauts throughout your life.

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Eating in Singapore

Singapore has 4 official languages (English, Malay, Mandarin and Tamil).  Naturally everyone speaks Singlish.  The food is the same, a mixture of the best of the everything.

(a food stall at the Tiong Bahru hawker center)

To get the idea, head to a hawker center, where countless food stalls ''hawk'' their food to you.  Walking down the row you can choose from pig blood porridge, chendol soy milk, oyster pancakes or roast duck, and so on.  It is an manifestation of greed, you just want to eat everything.

(chili crab at The Jumbo Seafood restaurant in Dempsey Hill)

Singaporeans love to eat crab.  They'll eat it with peppers, with garlic, with cheese, with black beans.  They'll eat crab with crab if they could.

Chili crab is among my top 5 food of all-time (others are juicy dumplings, foie gras soup, ma po to fu and spider crab pasta from Venice).

Like most amazing food, the basics are simple.  Crab, chili paste, tamarind, soy sauce, oyster sauce.  But there is always a secret sauce that separates the boys from the men, and the chili crab from Singapore is stupidly good. Most people mop the sauce with steamed buns, I prefer just plain rice.

(my chili crab companion, Kenny)

(a side of steamed fresh prawns to compliment the chili crab)

(Peranakan food at The Blue Ginger restaurant, on Tanjong Pagar road)

Another good example of the best-of-everything approach is Peranakan food.  Peranakans, literally meaning ''descendants'' describe the Chinese who immigrated to Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia between the 15th to 17th century, settled in Penang & Malacca and formed their own community, culture, language and cuisine.  The food features intense flavors drawn out from slow cooking.  Examples:

Otak Otak: fishcake with tumeric, lime leaves, galangal, chili, candelnuts & shrimp paste.

Bakwan Kepeting: soup with minced pork & crab meatballs & bamboo shoots

Beef Rendang: beef cooked in coconut milk, ginger, lemongrass, lime leaves & curry powder.

Ayam Buah Keluak: chicken braised with tumeric, galangal, lemongrass and buah keluak nuts (which have cyanide, but it goes away if you wash it & bury it.  Wonders how they figured that out).

Gula Melaka: chilled sago topped with honey sea coconut.

OK I'm hungry now.

(my Peranakan eating companions, Adan & Felicia)

(eating curry fish head soup with Shahril & Kit)

(this is what Pizza Hut looks like in Malaysia)

Took a brief trip to Kuala Lumpur (by bus) to have dinner with my friends Shahril, Kit and Thariq.  The highlight was the curry fish head soup.  

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Issac Newton

Just finished reading James Gleick's biography of Issac Newton.  Aside from making me feel very dumb, the book was inspiring & fascinating.

(William Blake's sketch of Issac Newton as a demigod.  Blake was terrified of Newton's idea of the vast emptiness of space)

First, there was no apple, and Newton didn't discover gravity.  Gravity had been known for centuries.  What Newton did, over decades of work, was to lay down the laws of motion, and explain how everything in the universe is affected by gravity - from planetary motion, the shape of Earth, to how tides work.  However, Newton never could understand where gravity comes from, or why does gravity exist?

Like other ''geniuses'' before him, Newton was a voracious reader.  He studied every astronomy, math, philosophy, algebra and geometry book he could find.  Newton famous said ''If I have seen further than others, it is by standing upon the shoulder of giants''.

As a student at Trinity College, Newton obsessively studied theology, scripture & prophecy.  He was a skeptic of the idea of the Trinity, arguing it is not possible that the Son of God be an equal to God.

In addition to establishing the laws of motion, Newton also partially invented calculus, figured out the light spectrum, was a member of Parliament, and as Master of the Mint, moved the Pound Sterling from silver to the gold standard.  His study of alchemy was also rooted in science, as he understood everything in life is made of atoms, and he was trying to manipulate nature at the atomic level.  Trust me, it made sense when you hear him explains it.

(Issac Newton was also elected the President of The Royal Society, and was a mentor to Edmond Halley, and friend to John Locke)

Newton's three laws of motion reads like one of those inspirational posters you find at corporations.  Most interesting to me, Newton proved that inertia is a Force.

1) A stationary body will stay stationary unless an external force is applied to it.

2) Force is equal to mass times acceleration, and a change in motion is proportional to the force applied.

3) For every action, there is is an equal and opposite reaction.

Issac Newton was born on January 4th, 1643, almost a year to the date on the death of Galileo (died January 8th, 1962).  Do you believe in karma?

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Here is a day's haul from my local farmers market (the University Farmers Marker in Seattle) and each item was cooked.

The desiree potatoes were later roasted with a duck.

The sweet potato was baked & taken to a Sounders game.

The kale pasta was served with the palomino sauce.

The Japanese turnips were eaten as a raw snack

The chicken was roasted, then the bones made into broth using the celery & the onion.

The bell peppers, garlic and parsley were made into a romesco sauce.

The hama hama smoked oysters were eaten as a snack

The Japanese cucumber were eaten as a snack

The fuji apples were eaten as is

The ears of corn were eaten boiled

The kale were roasted with olive oil & salt

The ground beef is still in the freezer, destined for a pasta sauce or mapo tofu

The bok choy were sauteed with chestnuts

The eggs were poached in ramen broth for daily breakfast

The honey sticks were snacks for Mia

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Drove by Sleater Kinney Road in Olympia, WA yesterday, made me think about Sleater-Kinney's return.

Usually I'm weary about reunions.  There is a saying that your first album (novel...etc.) is inspiration, everything after is invention.  Yes, the world has missed Sleater-Kinney, I have missed Sleater-Kinney.  But there is this nagging doubt that, to quote Thomas Wolfe, you can't go home again.

Then I learned Sub Pop is putting out the new record, and listening to the first new single, and listening to an interview with Carrie Brownstein where she talks about her creativity flows with the blood, all my doubts evaporated.  I feel like a teenager again, lining up at Tower Records, with my wrist band, waiting for the new record to come out.  Sleater-Kinney is back.

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Watch this cute video on SHAKE PUPPY, then go to your local bookstore or library and ask for the book.

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The Willows Inn at Lummi Island

(front porch at The Willows Inn)

For our 10 year wedding anniversary, Adrian & I went to dine at The Willows Inn.

Willows Inn has been around since 1910.  It's located about 2+ hours north of Seattle on Lummi Island.  Its claim to fame is its star chef and co-owner Blaine Wetzel, who previously cooked at Noma in Copenhagen (considered by some the best restaurant in the world), and has won the usual awards (James Bears Rising Star, Food & Wine Magazine Best New Chef...blah..blah). I'm usually unimpressed by awards because they often signify fussiness.  But, in this case, they are right, he is a star.

(Lummi Island rockfish steamed with cherry tomato and lovage)

I'll start at the end.  By the time we finished, we have had over 20 (!) courses and 6 different types of wine (you can also choose a juice pairing).  You feel satisfied, but not bloated.  This is because the portions are actual bite size, as in you can often each an entire dish in one bite.

A single spot prawn poached in coral roe.  A single Samish Bay mussel, smoked right outside our windows. A single shiitake mushroom, grilled to perfection.  You get the idea.

The feast continues.  Locally caught albacore tuna is cooked in a broth of smoked bones.  Grapes are crushed in a dressing of wild cress.  Halibut skin is fried and served with cream.  Homemade crusty bread is served with pan drippings from a roast chicken.

Let me repeat that.  Homemade crusty bread is served with pan drippings from a roast chicken.

(the impossibly gorgeous breakfast)

The next morning, we come back for more. 

French press coffee.  Soft boiled egg with coarse sea salt.  Granola with fresh yogurt.  Biscuits.  Charcuterie.  Smoked salmon.  Cheese.  Kale.  Jam.  Sage-elderberry juice.  Butter.

(sunset from the porch at Willows Inn)

Although it does not show up in his biography, I'm wondering if the chef had spent time in Japan.  The presentation, choice of pottery, portion size and the way he focuses to bring out a singular flavor in each dish is, in my opinion, very Japanese.  Maybe one day I will ask him.

Fished, foraged and farmed is The Willows Inn's motto.  The whole business of local sourcing and sustainable can become a cliche, but not so at Willows Inn.  I felt he skated on the fine line a few times, but he pulls back just before preciousness sets in.  When I bite into the locally reef-net caught smoked salmon, I swear I can taste the ocean that's staring back at me.  When I eat the locally grass-fed lamb (served with grass, naturally), I taste the earth I just walked on.  It's hard to be cynical when magic is abound.

(day time view from the porch)

Willows Inn has 2 full time farmers, only growing stuff for the restaurant.  10% of the plot are for R&D.  To learn from the previous year, and to experiment on what will go on next year's plates.  This is a serious commitment, not lip service about ''local'' and ''sustainable''.

To learn more about The Willows Inn, please read my friend Nikki's review in The Seattle Weekly.

(a happy customer)

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"I just had the best idea."

"Oh, great."

"You know how most animals poop out blobs or tubes or little pellets?"

"Um…"

"I’m going to make this wombat poop different."

"Poop… different…?"

"I’m going to make it poop cubes!”

"Seriously?"

"That way the poops won’t roll away when the wombat uses them to mark its territory.”

"I think you’ve finally lost it."

"It’s called ‘innovation,’ my friend."

Source: Flickr / steven-young / licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

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Kyoto dreaming

(The Hikari train on the Shinkansen line)

To go to Kyoto from Tokyo you catch the Shinkansen (high-speed rail, also goes by the nickname dangan ressha - bullet train).  The first Shinkansen run was on October 1st, 1964, exactly 50 years ago.  The trains can reach a maximum speed of 320 km/h (200 mph), the average delay is 36 seconds, and has never had an accident.

(traditional Japanese breakfast)

Our hotel had 3 different restaurant options for breakfast: Japanese, American or French.  Guess which one I chose?

(Tenryu temple)

First stop is Tenryu-ji, which turned out to be my favorite temple in all of Kyoto.  Founded in 1339 by Shogun Ashikaga Takauji, it is the head temple of the Rinzai Zen Buddhism.  It is stunningly beautiful and serene.

(Crystal feeding a monkey inside the human cage)

Walking up the Arashiyama mountain from Tenryu-ji, you arrive at the Iwatayama Monkey Park.  Here Japanese macaque (snow monkey, native to Japan) reside without fences.  Human can go into a cage to feed the monkey, who roam free outside.  We saw some super cute babies, but they were too elusive to be captured on camera.

(Kumiage Yuba set)

Coming down the monkey mountain, we decided to try the local  delicacy: yuba (tofu skin made from soy milk).  My set included Hirousu (fried tofu fritter), Namafu no dengaku (fresh, dried wheat gluten ) with two flavors of yomogi (mugwort and sesame), Chawanmushi (steamed tofu and egg hotchpotch), Yudofu (boiled tofu), Tempura (sesame tofu, green chili, kudzu flowers), Gokokumai (rice cooked with five kinds of grains) and Suimono (soup with rolled dried wheat gluten).  Everything is homemade, of course.

(street food)

Because a 10-course lunch was not enough, I indulged in Warabimochi, a dessert that is a specialty of Arashiyama.  It has a subtle sweetness and melts in your mouth without the need to chew.  Wow.

(Kiyomizu-dera)

Time for more temples! Kiyomizu-dera was founded in 798, and it takes its name from the waterfall within the complex (kiyomizu means pure water).  On the way up we encountered excited school children, who were apparently permitted to buy as much sweets as they wanted.

(Fushimi Inari-taisha)

Next we come to the most magical place of Kyoto for me, the Fushimi Inari-taisha shrine on Inari mountain.  Founded in 968 to worship the diety Inari (and its messengers Kitshune, the foxes you see in the picture), some crazy monks decided to build thousands & thousands of red torii gates.  It takes about 2 hours to walk up the mountain, and every step is lined with these gates.  To get here it took just 10 minutes by train from Kyoto.

(Nijo Castle)

In 1601 Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered this castle be build.  It is famous for two things.  First, the uguisubari (Nightingale) floors, which squeak like birds when walked on them, to warn of assassins.  Second, in 1867, it was here that Shogun Tokugawa Yoshinobu handed powers back to the Emperor, effectively ending Shogunate and Samurai rule.

(Hanami-koji in Gion)

Back in the Middle Ages, Gion was the entertainment area to welcome weary travelers who came to Kyoto to worship the temples & shrines. Today it is lined by beautiful streets such as Hanami-koji (flower viewing street) and traditionally wooden houses next to the Shirakawa Canal.  It is also home to Geisha (Geiko in Kyoto).

(Crystal cooking teppanyaki with old man chef)

On the corner of Hanami-koji and Shinbashi street, in Gion, we found a teppanyaki restaurant (food cooked on iron griddle) called Manryu.  We were captivated by old man chef (pictured, in black t-shirt).  Old man chef has just one tooth, handles his food like he has done it 10,000 times (he has), and orders the hapless young waitress around.  At one point he brings my friend Crystal into the kitchen, which generated catcalls of ''flip higher!'' from my drunken neighbors.

(Ogi the bartender at his bar on Ponto-cho-dori)

(Cat cafe in Kyoto)

(a train ad promoting the use of trains in Kyoto.  I just fell in love with this picture)

I LOVE Kyoto.  I love Kyoto for its simplicity, beautiful mountains, temples, shrines.  I love Kyoto for its food and quirk (we drank at an Aquarium bar, literally a bar surrounded by aquariums, even in the toilet). I love Kyoto for its ancient history.  Just a few hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen, I will now visit Kyoto every time I go to Tokyo on business trips.

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Akira creator Katsuhiro Omoto creates a mural for the Sendai Airport.

Such a great idea for public art, to celebrate a national art form and a crowd-pleasing one to boot.

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Karbanatky, a burger from Czechoslovakia.

Learned this recipe from my friend Irena: Mix ground beef with bacon, marjoram, paprika, saut��ed onions, soaked bread & egg yolk. Coat in egg whites and bread crumbs. Pan fry in low heat, long enough so the burger has a nice, blackened crust. Serve with mashed potatoes, buttered peas & Czech beer.

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Travel journal: Scottish Highlands

(Cairngorm forest)

Leaving Edinburgh & driving on the A9, our first encounter with the Highlands is the Cairngorm forest.  Majestic trees rise out of moorlands, it presents a very Tolkienesque image. 

(zip line in the Cairngorm forest)

On impulse, we signed up to zip line. With a crazy (any other kind?) Australia guide, we clipped on & for the next few hours, flew through the valleys of the Cairngorm forest.

(Loch Ness)

Continuing pass Inverness, we come to Loch Ness, which was not what I expected.  I thought Loch Ness was going to be packed with tacky souvenir shops.  Instead it is beautiful, quiet and mysterious.  The ''main town'' of Drumnadrochit, where the Loch Ness Monster Exhibition is located, could not have been more sleepy.

(Urquhart Castle)

Watching over Loch Ness is Urquhart Castle, a 14th century fortification that have seen better days, but is today a reminder of the violent & romantic history of the Highlands.

(Battle of Culloden)

Our next stop is the Battlefield of Culloden, site of the last major battle fought on British soil.  In 1746 Bonnie Prince Charlie led a Highland charge against the British army.  The Highlanders were routed in less than 55 minutes.  The defeat marked the end of the Highland rebellion, and led to the decline of the Highlands and the destruction of the clan system.  After the battle, there is a romantic story of how Bonnie Prince Charlie, disguised as a maiden, escaped to France.  While Prince Charlie is hailed as a folk hero, I see him as nothing more than a spoiled brat who didn't listen to his military advisers.

The exhibition at the battlefield is very well done, and I recommend taking the guided walking tour, to learn this interesting part of Scottish history.

(Eilean Donan Castle)

(Eilean Donan Castle)

Just before the fishing port of Kyle of Lochalsh (where you would take the bridge to Isle of Skye), we come to my favorite castle - the Eilean Donan Castle.

The first fortification was built in the 13th century.  Sitting at the intersection of 3 separate lochs (lake & sea inlet, in Scottish Gaelic), this was an ideal location to protect the land against invaders, which at that time were the Vikings.  Later, it became a seat of power to control the sea kingdoms of the Lords of the Isles. 

It also played a part of clan warfare.  One tale had a traveling man, a member of the McRae clan, seeing the castle under siege by the Clan MacDonald, decides to join the defense.  Down to 3 men & 1 arrow, the brave McRae killed the MacDonald's chief and ended the battle.  He was rewarded the castle, where it has remained in his family ever since.  To this day, you can see signs in the areas that's populated by descendants of the McRae clan, such as this war memorial:

(We are the dead, short days ago we lived, felt, saw sunsets glow, loved and were loved, and now we lie in Flanders fields) - Lt. Col. John McRae.

(Highland cows)

The Scottish Highlands is exactly what it should be.  Beautiful, green, misty, sparsely populated, full of romantic & violent history.  It;s a place I love to go back again & again.

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Isle of Skye travel journal

(a hike to see the Fairy Pools.  The Cuillins mountains are in the background,)

The Isle of Skye is an island in northwestern Scotland.  It has been mentioned during Roman times by Ptolemy, and by the vikings in Norse sagas.

The island is sparsely populated by humans (under 10,000).  There are over 80,000 sheep, and you can see them grazing, well, pretty much everywhere.

(a fairy pool)

One of the defining features of Skye are the aqua-pools formed within the stream Allt Coir a Mhadaidh, known as fairy pools.  One can imagine fairies living in such a magical place.

(while hiking to the fairy pools we came across this little friend - a shrew dining on a dried slug)

(Talisker Distillery)

The other defining feature is Talisker.  Founded in 1830 by Hugh & Kenneth MacAskill of Scandinavian origins, today it is the only distillery on the isle of Skye.  With water from the underground spring Cnoc nan Speireag and malt from Muir of Ord, it is slightly peaty and has a fuller characteristics than other Highland whiskey.  Located at 51 degrees north latitude (north of Newfoundland), it is also one of the northernmost distillery in the world.  Its motto is ''Made by the Sea'' and it produces a whiskey called ''Storm'', Talisker proudly wears its island heritage.

(Isle of Skye Oysters)

Just up the hill from Talisker is the Isle of Skye Oysters.  Founded by fisherman Kenny Bain in 1981, now run by his son-in-law Paul McGlynn.  In addition to oysters, it is an outstanding place to sample the fresh seafood that swim in the Hebrides (shellfish, Atlantic salmon, halibut, skate to name a few.  I enjoyed a delicious plate of buttered scallops, courtesy of Mrs. Bain).

(Paul McGlynn, who is from Glasgow, so I didn't understand a word he said)

(Dunvegan Castle)

The romance of the Highlands is perfectly presented at Dunvegan Castle.  It has been home to the Clan MacLeod for over 800 years, including its chief, known as MacLeod of MacLeod.  It was the MacLeods that originally leased the building to MacAskills to build Talisker Distillery.

(Isle of Skye Pipe Band)

Finishing our tour in Portree, the island's capital, we ran into a performance in the town square by the Isle of Skye Pipe Band.

For me, these words symbolizes the beauty and allure of Isle of Skye:

TO LIVE ON SKYE

YOU NEED TO BE...

RESILIENT

INVENTIVE

HUMOROUS

TOUGH

SELF-SUFFICIENT

WATERPROOF

PATIENT

LUCKY.

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The retrospective exhibit will chronicle the Icelandic rock composer's otherworldly, 20-year career in music, fashion, and art.

This has potential.  I've always enjoyed and admired Bjork's creativity.

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Two feasts in Brooklyn

When I learned my friend Nina Brondmo has opened a new bakery in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, I decided to make a weekend of visiting her various spots (she already owned a restaurant + another bakery in Williamsburg)

(Sweetwater, Nina's restaurant in Williamsburg.  The space used to be a punk club)

We agreed to meet for dinner on Saturday at 6:30, at her restaurant Sweetwater.  I arrived early to check out the bar scene.  I chose a Franky Lampard (Dorothy Parker gin, cardamon honey & lemon).  It was perfect.  Other choices I could have made include Tito Jackson: Tito's vodka, lemon, basil & watermelon; or the Pabloso: jalapeno infused cazadores reposado, peach nectar & fresh lime.

(Sweetwater's bar)

Nina swooped in shortly after, a bottle of left-over red wine in her hand.  After proudly showing me the back garden, and introducing me to the staff, we settled in on a plush leather couch.  Then the eating started.

To begin, mussels steamed in a spicy, garlicky sauce.  Mopped up by 3 different kinds of bread fresh from her bakery.  Next up was my favorite dish of the evening.  A smoked trout salad, with escarole, red onions, apple, toasted almond & creme fraiche served warm.  Gambas al ajillo followed (shrimped with olive oil & garlic served piping hot in a cast-iron skillet).  Then it was truffled four cheese chive gnocchi.  We finished the evening with a Banafi cake chased with a glass of Amaro.

(Nina in our plush leather couch)

Next day, Sunday, I show up at the doors of Nina's new bakery in Greenpoint. Bakeri (means bakery in Norwegian) is located just blocks from the Kickstarter office.  Appropriate given her entrepreneurial spirit.

(the entrance to Bakeri in Greenpoint)

Nina has been there since 5 in the morning.  By the time I show up at 9am, the place is in full swing.  I settle down at the counter, and started eating.

First to show up is a sour cherry lemon cake.  Next, a ham & mustard croissant.  Then it was skolebrod, a Norwegian cake made with sweet yeast dough, vanilla pastry cream & coconut.  After a delicious vegetables savory tart, it was my favorite item of the day - a focaccia sandwich with tomato jam, raw kale & gruyere.  The focaccia is extra fluffy and crusted with olive oil, rosemary & grey sea salt.  The texture & flavor combination was just great.  I wasn't done.  Next up was a lavender short bread.  Followed by a mushroom & ricotta galette, then, finally, a ramp pesto walnut feta roll for the road (I was heading to JFK to fly home to Seattle).

(the best focaccia sandwich I've ever had)

I wanted to eat so much more.  At Sweetwater, I wish I had tried her blackened sea scallops with grapefruit, escarole & Balsamic glaze.  At Bakeri, I wanted to sample the smoked salmon with dill & caper yogurt sauce on a brioche.  Nina, who studied at the French culinary institute, has created the perfect neighborhood bistro & bakeries.  I will be making regular stops in Brooklyn, you can be sure of that.

(try her other Bakeri location in Williamsburg)

(I will be back to eat all of you)

Ku

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SEPTEMBER WHEN IT COMES by Rosanne Cash & Johnny Cash.  My favorite Father's Day song.