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Welcome to the world of Pashmina, literally meaning ‘soft gold’.  Its quality can only be identified by its warmth, softness and by the people alone who have the knowledge to distinguise between Pashmina and ordinary wool. Indigenously produced in Kashmir, they are much sought after for their fine and imperial weave of pure cashmere wool. Its texture is thin, fine and soft, yet provides warmth. Wrapping yourself with one can tell you how warm it can keep you. 

 Pashmina wool, unlike generic Cashmere wool, is perfect for making light weight yet warm scarves and shawls. Many believe that Pashmina wool is expensive but the fact is that it’s not the wool that’s exorbitantly priced; it’s the degree of detailed work done on the apparels that makes it so costly. Making a single piece is one person’s toil for one whole year, making it their earnings for the entire year. The value is not in the material, it is in the work done on the shawl (per piece). Making Pashmina shawls is not a lost art; rather, it’s a dying art because it’s a luxury that common people cannot afford and because the craftmen’s successors are not willing to carry forward the craft.

 Thick layers of warm clothes in winters can make you look sloppy and slumpy. So, this winter go for gorgeous and elegant Pashmina shawls or stoles that will keep you warm and make you look sophisticated and fashionable as well. These days, they come in two types: hand-woven and machine made, in fine colours and beautiful patterns that complement both traditional and contemporary look.

 Pure Pashmina shawls come with loose borders rather than knotted because they are traditionally loomed by hand and not by machine. Both ends are in single colour as they are not blended from two or more yarns.

 A 100 per cent pure Pashmina shawl is lighter, softer and more luxurious than the silk blended ones. Nevertheless, some people prefer Pashmina blended with silk as it has the warmth of Pashmina and durability of silk relatively at a lower price.

These exquisite Pashmina shawls, whether plain or embroidered, are quite expensive, but they are worth buying as you can wrap yourself warm, easy and nice with it. It can also be worn with both ethnic and western outfits.

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Exquisite handloom and handicraft, creations of master weavers from rural areas of West Bengal are the hot cakes at Kasturi-B ahead of the upcoming Durga Puja celebrations.

 Indian handlooms are known for their richness, exquisite designs, variety and fine quality. If one wants to experience poetry in threads then the handcrafted Kantha sarees from Shanti Niketan district of West Bengal is their cup of tea. Also known for their unique low-twist tussar silk yarns that help create intricate patterns through cross weaving.

 The soul of Bengal lies in kantha stitch. This type of stitch is basically the ‘running’ stitch, and is very simple. Traditionally this embroidery was used for quilts, dhotis and sarees, but over a period of time it has evolved and made its way right into the heart of Indian fashion. The yarn is taken from old saree borders; the design is then traced and finally covered `with running stitches.

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We at Kasturi-B are reviving couture in Lucknow embroideries with unique designs, experimental fusion and rich craftsmanship. Innovation, for us, begins with in-house original motifs and blocks with the singular intention of imbibing timelessness in every piece. Our underlying design philosophy is to change conventional ideas about chikankari with motifs and designs that appeal to the modern woman.

 What’s sizzling at Kasturi-B?

Let’s talk about this gorgeous ensemble, which sensuously accentuates the Chikankari on white net fabric while exploring the gorgeous hues of Ajrakh in the lower as flared skirt. New ensembles are being fashioned using a myriad of fabrics (from net to silks), weaves (from Ajrakh to Banarasi) and embroideries and embellishments (from chikankari to mukaish). In terms of colours, we believe in unleashing our creavity & exploring new combinations.

Just take a moment to admire the unusual amalgamation of Chikankari on white net to create the a panel like look with Ajrakh soothingly complimenting the whites with its vibrant blue and green hues. The use of more than 200 potli buttons accentuate the look of front panel while side doris make fitting the kurta a breeze.

 What to look out for?

Kasturi-B will be showcasing the embossed look on georgette gowns & flowy anarkali, a unique line that has been developed with the ethnic chic look in mind. Instead of the flat look of the usual Chikankari work, these gowns have a three-dimensional appeal, which is bolder and more striking in appearance.

 So just stay tuned to explore more with Kasturi-B

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C’s Of Chikankari

Welcome to Lucknow – the Constantinople of East often revered as the cradle of Chikankari.  Patronized in India during the Mughal era, it is considered that Nur Jehan, spouse of Mughal Emperor Jehangir was one of its leading proponents. Chikankari brings forth pictures of bright colored kurtas, sarees and suits covered with intricate embroidery all over. The styles are like routes of a dream, ranging from sensitive to intricate. 

 The process is done 100% by hand with patterns mostly inspired by Mughal architecture and the fabrics used can be cotton, muslin, chiffon, georgette, organza etc. People often use terms like, lucknawi kurtis and lucknawi Chikan whenever they are referring to Chikankari dresses for men and women. The most striking and visual appeal of Chikankari work is it’s design. These dresses do not stick to your body and are extremely light in weight and allow your skin to breathe even in extreme hot & sultry weather.

Chikankari Work Nuances -

Entire work is done by hand, from start with block printing on a fabric to embroiderer then stitching the patterns carefully and eventually washing and removal of all traces of printed pattern (dye marks). The entire process can be described in following steps:

§  Chapayi or Block Printing –Intricate designs are craved on blocks of wood which are in turn used to print various patterns on fabric. The dye used is a mixture of washable blue colour, water and glue.

§  Stitches (Embroidery) – Master embroiderers then create their magic with 36 different types of stitches. Different types of stitches are discussed below. The type of stitches and the thickness of the thread determine the patterns and effects created on the fabric. There are more than 36 stitches used in Chikankari to give a unique look to each design. All these 35 stitches are mainly classified into 3 main types. Flat, embossed, and raised stitches. Flat stitches are very subtle in nature and remain close to the fabric. Embossed stitches provide a grainy appearance to the fabric.

Different Types Of Stitches Used In Chikankari

§  Tepchi: This is one of the simplest form of designing a Chikankari dress. It’s a linear, long running or darning stitch on a fabric. Six strands on the right side of the ground fabric taken over four threads and one of them is picked up. This particular style is mostly chosen to outline the design motif.

§  Bakhiya: This type of stitch is known for its double back and shadow work. It’s mostly done from the wrong side of the fabric and the actual design on the front end is rendered in herringbone style. The shadow of the thread is seen on the cloth from the right side. In industry, it is also known as “Ulti” and “Seedhi” Bakhiya.

§  Hool: This one is a fine detached eyelet stitch. It is made with the help of six threads and forms the heart of the flower. A hole is very delicately punched into the fabric and the threads are then separated from each other. It is then held by miniscule stitches all around with a single thread on the right side of the fabric.

§  Zanzeera:  This is a very small delicately handcrafted chain stitch worked with one thread being on the right side of the fabric. It’s is mostly used for enhancing the outline of a shape like flower or a petal once basic outlines have already been made.

§  Rahet: An offshoot of the Bakhiya stitch, it is rarely used in its simplest form. Popularly known as “Dohra Bakhiya”, it forms a solid line of back stitch on the right side of the fabric. Mostly used to create outline stitches.

§  Banarsi: A form of twisted stitch which is done with six threads on the right side of the fabric. Working on the right side and at an interval of 5 threads, a small stitch is taken over about two threads vertically. The needle is again reinserted at the half way mark just below the horizontal stitch and is taken out about two threads vertically on the right hand side just above the preceding stitch.

§   Khatau: Just like Rahet, Khatau is also an offshoot of Bakhiya. The most noticeable difference is that it is finer and is a form of appliqué. The design is mostly prepared on a calico which is a plain woven unbleached textile and often not fully processes cotton.

§  Phanda: This is one of the most commonly used and amongst the well known stitches along with Murri. It’s mostly used in making the center of the flowers in simple Chikankari design motifs. The basic difference between a Phanda and Murri is that Murri is a rice shaped design while a Phanda is millet shaped.

§  Jali: These stitches require great level of meticulous expertise. The beauty of this design is that the threads are never drawn through the fabric making the back of the fabric as impeccable as the front. The threads are very carefully drawn apart and very small buttonhole stitches are inserted into the cloth.

§  Turpai and Darzdari: These two types of stitches are integral part of Chikankari. Turpai is recognised by think thread design while Darzdari comes in various forms like “Singbhada Darz”, “kohidarz”, Kamal darz”, “Shankarpara Darz” etc.

§  There are many other types of Chikankari stitches which are: Banjkali, Makra, Kauri, Sazi, Karan, Kapkapi, Madrazi, Bulbul-Chasm, Taj Mahal, Chanapatti, Keel Kangan, Sidhaul etc.

Chikankari over the years has seen a paradigm shift in innovation and experimentation done with different types of fabrics. This handicraft art has seen various stages of transformations but it remains rooted in its city of origin, Lucknow and its surrounding areas like Malihabad & Kakori.

Kasturi-B was the brain child of a true blooded Lucknowi. Having learnt to love embroidery, I find myself fascinated by its dual simplicity and complexity. The humble act of repeatedly inserting a threaded needle or awl in and out of cloth creates the most wildly diverse results that although grounded in tradition offer infinite potential for experimentation. Stitches are like little soldier ants, an indispensible part of something much bigger. Take one out and eventually everything will unravel.

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Indian Evolutions – Kalamkari

Welcome to the world of visual story telling!

Kalamkari is one of the most profoundly efficient way of interweaving tales through pictures. As the name suggests, it is ‘pen craft’ that involves the use of bamboo reeds or date palm branches on various cloth materials to create visual stories.

Kalamkari is the art of fabric printing which has won the hearts of people for generations for its unique patterns and colour combinations on cotton fabrics. Organic dyes and natural fabric has made Kalamkari enormously ramp worthy and a boho-chic friendly.

Using natural dyes of golden-yellow for females, blue for gods and red to illustrate demons, kalamkari works had scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata come alive on cloth. Mughal era saw introduction of more Persian designs onto thicker fabrics. And during the British era, floral designs became popular and artisans even created portraits of Englishmen.

Now Kalamkari has been seen on ramps, with many designers looking to revive Indian textiles. Cotton with zari borders, linens, lycra and knits are beautified with kalamkari, for buyers to feast their eyes on.

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Behold suits brought to you straight from our workshop in Shanti Niketan. Soft fabric & gorgeous thread work make these suits just right for casual & office wear.

Grab the entire collection @ Kasturi-B, Stall No. 8, FLO Bazaar Exhibition at Kanha Galaxy on 9th July Hope to see you there!

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Augment your undying love for Bengal's artistry and gift yourself an iconic Bengali saree, be it Kantha, Batik or hand-painted Bishnupuri silk. Join us in celebrating these timeless creations from across the nation. Catch us @ Kasturi-B, Stall No. 8, Flo Bazaar, Kanpur on 9th July.

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Immortalizing the prized legacy of Banaras, Kasturi-B brings to you an eclectic range of fabrics, dupattas, suits & sarees straight from the looms of the craftsmen of this holy city!

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Indian Evolutions - Kalamkari

Welcome to the world of visual story telling!

Kalamkari is one of the most profoundly efficient way of interweaving tales through pictures. As the name suggests, it is ‘pen craft’ that involves the use of bamboo reeds or date palm branches on various cloth materials to create visual stories.

Using natural dyes of golden-yellow for females, blue for gods and red to illustrate demons, kalamkari works had scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata come alive on cloth. Mughal era saw introduction of more Persian designs onto thicker fabrics. And during the British era, floral designs became popular and artisans even created portraits of Englishmen.

Now Kalamkari has been seen on ramps, with many designers looking to revive Indian textiles. Cotton with zari borders, linens, lycra and knits are beautified with kalamkari, for buyers to feast their eyes on.

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Here we go again - Chanderi Tales

As promised, here are some tips to know the real deal. Ways to tell the real Chanderi fabric from the powerloom counterpart -

1. Roughness - Handloom fabrics, be it Chanderi or Banarasi, have an uneven surface, sometime threads are loose.View the cloth at an angle and a totally flawless finish means powerloom product for sure

2. Pin-up - To keep the width of the cloth uniform through out, weavers use thin wooden needles to pin down the selvedge. Look for minute pin pricks on the border

3. Bootis - Check the bootis/ motifs. In weaving, if there are 4 motifs in a line, five bobbins of thread will be used. In powerloom, a single thread will be used across all four. These are snapped off leaving a clear cut clue.

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Chikankari - An unending love affair with summers

Chikankari never goes out of fashion. Let us tell you why it's the best kind of summerwear.

When the sun smiles strongly, you know it is the time to celebrate cool muslins and soft mulls. Traditional yet contoured in a modish contemporary twist, the ageless chikankari,comes to your cool rescue.

Chikan work with its gossamer quality has become one of Indian fashion's hottest creations and is an expression of haute couture, combined with mirror work, muquaish and even zardozi.

Crafted on cotton, linen, georgettes and chiffons, these light and wearable creations do not stick to your body and allow your skin to breathe in the oppressive heat. 

You really feel the elements of nature come to life with Chikankari patterns. Nimble fingers bring to life filigreed leaves, trellised paisleys, blooming roses and soft roses, even Arabesque interpretations of birds, fishes and butterflies. Most design motifs today are stylised expressions of the Mughal era, even reminiscent of the fine karigari evident at Fatehpur Sikri.

Chikan work ensembles breathe their own special magic into your being when you wear them. They make you feel like royalty. New innovative creations like capris, palazzo & skirts with Chikankari work have re-defined the way we look at this Lucknowi gift to the world

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Spot the ‘Knots’

Love the six yard wonder from Banarasi or as many of us know it, Varanasi? The land of the divine is also a saree connoisseur’s dream come true. With motifs & weaves inspired by the mughal art & natural elements around us, Banarasi sarees are marked by the superb craftsmanship & rich quality of silk. 

But these wonderful drapes have lost some of their patronage due to the market being flooded with cheap knock-offs. Are you one of those who love the world famous weaves from Banaras, but don’t know how to differentiate between what’s real and what’s fake?

 Here are some important indicators before you make a purchase –

v  Try buying from established brands who are reputed to provide authentic products

v  Look on the reverse side of the saree, zari weave will have some minor irregularities and some loose ends.

v  Manual art work will also have some small imperfections in colours

v  Most of all silk, even in bulk markets is priced around Rs 500 per metre. Anyone selling a so called authentic Banarasi saree at say Rs 3000 is probably ripping you off. Handmade sarees start at approximately Rs 9,000 a piece.

v  Pure silk has a characteristic sheen and softness without being overtly shiny. Over a period of time, learn to ‘feel’ this difference.

Some might find Banarasi sarees expensive and the look a bit traditional. But frankly speaking a lot has changed over the years and that includes the colour combinations and the motifs used. Many weavers have been experimenting off late to produce sarees  which combine the richness of Banarasi weave yet look contemporary.

 Banarasi sarees are truly vintage. They deserve a place in every blue blooded Indian women. Tell you the truth, they never run out of fashion. Drape them at any function and you will feel fit to walk the ramp.

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Once upon a Chanderi

Know your Chanderi Silk -  Chanderi is sleepy little town in Madhya Pradesh, owning the prestigious distinction of being a cluster of handloom weavers for five centuries. Chanderi is famous for its drape of saree with rich gold border at the 'pallu' and some selective ones having gold embellishments with lotus roundels or butis, spread all across the six yards.

Chanderi involve in production of three kinds of fabrics mainly:

Chanderi cotton - The warp and weft are 100s or 120s cotton. The Chanderi muslins have been known for their smoothness and softness.

Silk cotton - The weaver skillfully coalesce 13/15-denier warp with 100s/120s cotton in the weft.

Pure silk where the warp and weft is woven in pure silk.

Confused? Stay with us, we will guide you how to make out the actual handloom Chanderi from the cheap powerloom knock-offs? 

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DISCERNING DESI

Do you ever wonder where India stands today in the eyes of the ever changing world? India and everything Indian have become synonymous for rich heritage, aesthetic instinct as well as spiritual epitome. From yoga to ayurveda, from hand dyed clothing to ancient thread arts, the world is looking at India through a new lens. With Hollywood celebrities endorsing yoga and the likes of Julia Roberts wearing a saree, it’s about time we realized the huge potential of Indian crafts in the evolving world of Fashion.

 India has been blessed with a diversified culture which led to the evolution of many craft forms like Bandhini and Leheriya from Rajasthan, Kantha from West Bengal, Chikankari from Uttar Pradesh, silks from Madhya Pradesh and many more. Each of these crafts originated centuries ago and after witnessing neglect in the past few decades, all are undergoing a spectacular transformation with one magic word – FUSION.

 Be it Chikankari adorned with zardozi work or bandhini done on kota silk fabric in neon hues, thanks to the work of many top as well upcoming designers, ancient Indian crafts are not only reviving but also thriving as latest fashion fad.  Many designers like Ritu Kumar, Ashima-Leena and likes have pioneered the term ‘fashion’ in Indian context.  On one hand they have recognized the potential of embroidery heritage of India and on the other hand, they have developed Indo-Western fusion wear with signature Indian embroidery and western couture.

 Indian craftsmen have immense potential and much to offer to the fashion industry, Indian and western alike.  Many upcoming websites and designers are working hard towards developing fusion dressing. Chic palazzos with Chikankari, wraparounds crafted in Banarasi fabric, shararas in Pauri, Kantha saree with abstract designs - making their appearance on many online fashion stores are a clear indication of the efforts made by the connoisseurs of Indian heritage towards revitalizing and revamping the lineage of Indian thread arts.

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Summer ready styles

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Summer wear - Truly Yours Chikankari

Summers are here and it’s that time of the year when you pack your bags and plan your much needed summer break with friends & family. Sadly, the sweltering sun makes it difficult to dress up and look your best while taking holidaying.

The key is to keep your look simple while having fun and playing with colours and silhouettes this season. Try sporting pastel colours and sheer fabrics for a true summer-ready look.

But your holiday look is incomplete without trying something new & bold. Go for a chic denim lower adorned with Chikankari. Yeah you heard me right – capris, asymmetrical skirts & wrap-arounds.

Save yourself the hassle and shop online for perfect summer wear.

Hues of whites, blues and pastels

Classic whites and light greys are widely popular choices that will forever rule the summer markets. Sashaying down an off road market street or just chilling at the beach, white is the true colour of sophistication. You can go an all white dress for that ramp worthy effect

Classic blues, turquoise and aquamarine are energetic colours for summer dressing. These colours also add a touch of cool, providing the much needed relief from the summer heat.

Soft elegant pastels like light shades of pink, subtle shades of lime & yellow and zesty tang of greens & pistachio look bright and beautiful.

Cool, breathable fabrics

Trends might come and go but cotton has always been the one favourite fabric for summer dressing. Go for light designs of Chikankari on cottons.

Rayon is essentially the cool fabric and looks great in maxis and even lowers. It keeps your body temperatures low and your style quotient sky high!

Linen allows the heat to escape and keeps the body cool as it is extremely absorbent. Experiment with funky styles such as linen pants or palazzos for that perfect summer look.

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Fun & ethnic way to party this summer ~ Gota Patti Kurtas handcrafted on myriad of fabrics