joannetraveldiaries

[joannetraveldiaries]

7/26/19

Belgium has been an amazing experience. Even with the heat wave, I very much enjoyed the different culture it had from The Netherlands, and appreciated the more energetic vibe of its restaurants, politics, and the people. The most significant difference I felt in Belgium was how politically complex its government is, and the big role that Belgium as a a country plays in the European Union. The immigration of Turkish and Moroccan people, as well as the Congolese, is historically important to how Belgium is today, and to learn through lecture and museums about the relationship Belgium has with these people was intriguing as well. I walk away having a new understanding and appreciation for this seemingly small country.

The Netherlands was enriching for me as well. The people, culture, and serenity I felt was so different from Belgium, even though they were right next to each other. Because we were immersed immediately into the country, I witnessed so many differences in the culture between The Netherlands and America, and loved every second of it. I enjoyed the different nuances of each city we visited, and was amazed at how old this country was compared to the United States. The Indo population from the Dutch colonization period was a part of history I had never known even occurred, and if I had not been part of this program I never would have learned. The introduction to artwork from the Renaissance was the first time I have ever been to an art museum and actually appreciated what I was looking at.

This trip was a stepping stone for me becoming more of a global citizen, which was the goal I had when first deciding to participate in this program. I believe it was a success, and I also made new friends along the way. I am extremely grateful to have had the opportunity, and will cherish it forever.

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7/25/19

Today we visited the city of Leuven, which houses the university of Leuven. The university library is historically important, and also today was the hottest day of our program and also in Belgian history since 50 years ago. It was 105 degrees!

The oddest structure we came upon was the scarab beetle pinned by a giant needle, which is also a sundial if you climb the belfort on top of the library. Jeroen symbolized it as a warning that ‘life,’ or the study of science, is an important factor of school, but that one should be careful because it can also contribute to a dangerous society. I think that this was very well placed in front of the library, because the library was burned down twice from bombs designed by scientists. 

The university library is special because it was destroyed once in WW1 and again in WW2, and was rebuilt both times. I believe it speaks to the resilience of humanity, and the kindness of people all over the world who contributed to rebuilding the collection, including our very own UC Berkeley. 

The University of Leuven is home to the “oldest university in Belgium” as well as being the “largest Catholic university in Europe” (DeVries 125). When we went on our walking tour, we were shown many of the buildings owned by the university, which were historically important as being an all boys college, as well as where the scholar Erasmus taught. I thought that was also cool because Erasmus is who the European university exchange program is named after, and we were able to visit the origin of where he studied. 

Lastly, because this is a college town, we stopped by the “longest bar in the world” in the Oude Markt. The street was filled with bar after bar, with no other stores or restaurants in the way. If I were to return to Belgium, I would love to spend more time in Leuven and explore the university more and experience it as a student.

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7/24/19

Today we visited Bruges, which was my favorite city we had visited in Belgium. The “concentrated cityscape of medieval-style streets and canals” (DeVries 87) definitely added to its appeal, along with the mild breezes that came by due to its proximity to the coast.

We started off seeing the beguinages, which used to house “the aged, widows, and the disabled at a time when there were no old age pensions or social welfare” (DeVries 93). It was very calm and quiet, and I found myself wanting to stay in the serene neighborhood a bit longer. Before arriving at the Groeninge Museum, we walked through the city, stopping at the world’s first stock exchange and the districts were textiles used to fuel Bruges’ economy, as well as the Basilica of the Holy Blood.

Whether it be rumors or truth, the Holy Blood relic had a line, and Jeroen explained that it was believed by many as holding healing powers for their loved ones or even encouragement during hard times. It was the first church we had visited where we had to be mindful of being quiet as well.

Although the streets of Bruges were much more ‘old’ feeling, the past wealth of the city could be felt as well. I noticed the town hall with gold detailing, and the districts are all built to accommodate the once big industries of the huge economic center; I noticed this as well in Gent, when our tour guide showed us the separate buildings for trading fish and meat across the canal.

I really enjoyed the Groeninge Museum because while it was not that big, it successfully showed the progress of art from the medieval ages to the contemporary pieces, including Magritte and the 3 canvas of primary colors that none of us understood. Because it was not like the Rijksmuseum or a museum dedicated to just one artist’s style, I was able to more cohesively follow the trends of art; I also appreciated that I was seeing the best works of the times, because Flemish artists flourished during the Renaissance. Bruges is wonderful!

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7/23/19

Today we visited Antwerp, starting at the Rubenshuis and ending up at the MAS, where we were able to get a 360 degree panoramic view of the city.

Immediately after leaving the beautiful central station, which is the largest in Belgium (and Europe?), we were suddenly greeted by many diamond stores, which did not end until we reached our next destination; little did I know that Antwerp was “the undisputed international diamond capital with 90 percent of the world’s uncut diamonds passing through” (DeVries, 107).

While we were at the Rubenshuis, I noticed that his paintings were extremely vivid for how old they were, which goes on to prove how “his use of intense colour was also revolutionary” (DeVries 110). His excessive style I noticed in the other museums are also depicted in his collection here, with some ‘preliminary studies… far more representative of Rubens’ intentions than the completed paintings” (DeVries 110).

At the MAS, there were ten floors of exhibitions, all of which were not super related to the next floor in terms of exhibits. The one I found most interesting was the food exhibit, showing how Europe gets all its food, starting from the past and ending with possibilities for the future. A lot of resources are wasted currently, and there were even studies shown with cannibalism as a potential solution which I found morbid yet intriguing. Another exhibit many people liked was the party exhibit, where drag, kinks, and coming of age artifacts were all displayed. While I was mildly uncomfortable, I did learn a lot about the different celebrations that are held outside the US.

At the top of the building (which was very very hot), we saw the view of Antwerp, and I was reminded by the boats in the harbor of how important as a economic center Antwerp was in the past, because we learned in lecture about how King Maximillian had tried to invest into Antwerp to lure people away from Ghent and Bruges. It also has the architectural appeal of those two cities, with towers and buildings standing impressively even when seen from the top of the museum.

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7/22/19

On Monday we went to Ghent, which was better than Brussels in that it had more culture to offer and less business, or political buildings. Something I thought was cool was how old the buildings were, dating back to medieval times. We had always seen the 19th century architecture in Amsterdam, so seeing buildings from medieval times was very new.

A unique feature was the half Gothic, half Renaissance architecture of the city hall. The “appearance of the flamboyant Flemish version of Baroque architecture” (DeVries 78) does much to show the contrast between Ghent’s introduction to the Renaissance and its continuing medieval theme, and the Gothic architecture can also be seen with the Cathedral of St. Bavo. I was amazed at how much history had been preserved in Ghent, and that these places were being converted into shops and restaurants. When compared to America and even the Netherlands, these buildings are considered much older, and yet they are still standing sturdy and able to serve a new purpose as times change. I am beginning to feel that America is very wasteful, because rather than repurpose old buildings we would rather just demolish and start over.

Lastly after our walking tour, we were invited to dinner by Flemish families. This was a unique experience because I was able to witness firsthand the culture and personality of the Flemish people. We gathered in a small circle outside in their backyard and got to know each other through food and drink. Patrick and Annika were very kind and understanding, and I immediately felt welcomed into their home. I definitely felt the generosity of the Belgians when our hosts continued to offer food and seconds, even when I was super full, just like how Jeroen had explained the large portions of food the Belgians offer. Our hosts showed a great sense of hospitality, knowing every one of their neighbors and whose cats were roaming around their yard. I would like to meet them again someday!

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7/19/19

Today we visited the Royal Museum for Central Africa. I thought that the meaning behind its exhibits were important, and enjoyed the steps that were taken towards acknowledging Belgium’s colonial past. I also thought it was cool how African culture was present all over in many aspects, including religion and music. Genres we like today, as indicated in the map above, have all been influenced by Africa. Voodoo is also due to African religion. The exhibit on family and life hold universal truths that everyone, not just Africans, can relate to. 

The biggest thought I had coming into the museum was that the approach of the museum was very different compared to The Netherlands. I thought that the museums in The Netherlands did not seem proud to admit their colonial past, and there were very few exhibits that mentioned their colonial history in the Caribbean or Indonesia. However, this museum was almost entirely dedicated to admitting the horrible conditions that Belgium had created in Congo, and its efforts to tell the story from the perspective of the Congolese was clearly shown. Although it was not complete, before our visit we were able to talk to two of the museum’s curators, and they are currently working on adding new exhibits and trying to bring back the original pieces to their owners.

The history of the Democratic Republic of the Congo is much more intricate than I thought, although it has a much more recent history than the other colonized African regions. In lecture, we went over the history of Leopold the II’s plans for a Congo Free State holding very corrupt ideals behind his supposed intentions for ‘scientific research, humanitarian efforts, and evangelizing Christianity’-- the beginnings of a blueprint for ‘hell on earth’ for the Congolese. Perhaps its more recent history is the reason for how much intricate detail was documented, but Congo’s colonial history comes across as the most horrible from the other colonies we have learned about. 

I believe that the museum being renovated from a colonial museum used for propaganda to honoring African colonial history is a big step in the right direction and also a symbol of Belgium acknowledging its mistakes. Much like how Patrice Lumumba decided to tell the truth rather than accepting King Baudouin the I’s sugarcoated depiction of Belgian colonialism, this museum does not try to present history as more positive than it actually was. 

There are always debates to be had, questioning what the right decision should have been or should be. I think that these questions are necessary, in order to push us to think further about our consequences and find out what the best answer to these conflicts could be. I am interested in how this museum will continue to expand its knowledge and honor the Congolese.

[joannetraveldiaries]

7/18/19

This is the plenary hemicycle of the European Parliament. It was a lot of information to take in, and much more complex than even Belgium’s government system. 

The introduction to the European Union started off with our lecture, which divided the powers of the Union between the European Commission, European Parliament, European Council, and European Court of Justice. These were interesting but overwhelming because it was hard to fathom that all countries would be willing to share their powers with 27 other countries. The system itself is comparable to all the other government systems we have seen, where a majority vote is needed, there is a system of checks and balances, and there is a multi-party system. 

The most intriguing part of the visit was the history on which the EU was founded. In lecture, we discussed the events that led up to the formation of the EU. I was surprised to find out that the EU did not start off as a governmental agreement, but rather an alliance or ‘treaty’ on the coal and steel industry, and only with 6 countries to begin with. Due to the desires of Jacques Delors, which was founded with the fear that Europe would be influenced by the United States, this allied group of countries developed a flag, a common currency, and programs such as Erasmus. In a way, it is ironic, because the United States is also a collection of ‘member’ states with a flag, common currency, and programs. 

My perspective is one mixed with confusion and awe. Hearing that some countries, such as Norway, have agreements with the EU, yet do not want to be a part of the alliance, is odd. I can now see why Brexit became a big deal as well, since citizens do not feel that the policies of the EU represent their best interests. However, the fact that 28 countries with 24 official languages have been able to come together, rather than go to war, and form a delicate, somewhat fair unification, is impressive. Officials are elected through party members, and party members are elected through European citizens. Each country also has an official building pertinent to matters of the EU, giving even small countries that are not well known importance and a sign that they are valued. While there are many pros and cons, such as the disagreement on immigration laws of different countries, the tour guide’s words are emphasized: “there can only be progress with conflict.”

This experience has made me more interested in the political systems of the world, and been a good introduction to the current problems with countries in the European Union. I hope to explore this subject further soon.

[joannetraveldiaries]

7/17/19

Today we went to the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium, where we saw  broad timeline of the progress of Belgian art from medieval to contemporary times. 

I started off in the medieval section of the museum, and there were many depictions of the biblical stories I was familiar with. However, I was very surprised and entertained by the depictions of hell, the odd fusions between Christianity and Greek mythology, and the more gruesome, cold representations of humanity than I had seen at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. Belgian artists seemed to be more willing to explore what was not considered proper in those times. Some examples included Peter Bruegel I, Hieronymus Bosch, and Peter Paul Rubens. It was interesting to see different depictions of the same story, such as Delilah cutting Samson’s hair dressed very conservatively, while in another painting she is unclothed and has clearly seduced him in her bed. In Les Miracles de Saint Benoit, Ruben mixes the “classical sculptural figures with the vitality of Flemish peasants” (DeVries 110), something that is much more chaotic than the posed group portraits or everyday scenes I saw with Dutch artwork. Pieter Bruegel I, who no doubt was inspired by Peter Bruegel the Elder, also showed hell as an interesting rendition with what could be considered ‘abstract’ at the time. People were riding fish, floating baby heads with wings, and creatures that did not resemble any known animal further depicted chaos not characteristic of the time period. 

James Ensor was another artist I found interesting. It may have been from his background we learned in lecture, but he showed his disappointment with humanity even before he started painting people with masks, by having ironic titles like The Colourist for a woman in a very somber, gray setting. This was refreshing to see because the trend I had seen until this time was only of the pure, simple, happy moments of life, and these parts of life should not be ignored. 

The contemporary period with Magritte was very confusing and I am not sure I enjoyed it. Normally if I can’t understand a painting I look to the title of the piece for some guidance, but with Magritte’s pieces the titles were not even ironic or seemingly related to the piece itself. However, they had a cartoonish feel to them and I did feel like they were images that showed “escaping reality into dream land,” as our professor described in lecture. I wish I was able to understand what Magritte was trying to convey with his works.

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7/16/19

Today, we visited the Flemish and Belgian parliaments. Based on what we had learned in lecture, this governmental system was both very familiar and foreign at the same time. 

The whole situation was interesting because Belgium is also the capital of the European Union, and thus there are four(?) parliaments in one country. Wallonia, Flanders, Belgium, and the EU have separate buildings, and the Belgian government includes the monarchy, kept in check by parliament. While it was overwhelming, as we sat down in the Senate chairs it was not that hard to grasp, because the voting and the two houses were similar to our system in the United States, with a majority being needed for laws to pass. However, there is multiple party representation that is similar to The Netherlands, but not seen in the US.

In the first picture, our tour guide pointed out the reason for the peculiar architecture choice in the Flemish parliament building. The mix of concrete and glass represents the two values of the Flemish government: solidarity and transparency. I agreed with the reasoning for this construction: the concrete made the building seem sturdy and sound, while glass allowed for light to pass through, even to the 2nd level of the basement. 

Much more intriguing for me was the Belgian parliament building, even from the entrance. The employees responded to both French and Dutch, which drove home the point made in lecture that Brussels stands out from Flanders and Wallonia because it does not identify with either side, and is one of the reasons why the two have not separated into separate countries.  The term “Belgian Labyrinth” (Dewulf 146) truly applies to the turmoil that arises from conflicts between regional and federal politics.

Once we entered, we were introduced to the history of the formation of the Belgian government, and also shown the lavish interior decor of the meeting rooms. While Professor Jeroen pointed out that it was not until the end of the second World War that everyone had a vote, the tour guide emphasized the struggle for voting rights by saying it took over a century for the right to vote. Esmee had pointed out the difference between The Netherlands and Belgium in that Belgians were required to vote compared to voluntary participation in the Netherlands; I can now understand the reason for the difference. If their forefathers had fought with strikes and co-ops for this right, it should not be taken for granted. 

The meeting places of the Senate and the Chamber of Representatives highlighted the contrast between The Netherlands and Belgium. The Netherlands’ parliament building was very clean and modern, simply designed as a place for meeting and discussion. The rooms in the Belgian parliament building were adorned with statues and gold detailing spanning the entire ceiling, and the walls adorned with tapestries, gold portraits, and marble busts of past prime ministers. This reflected the religious difference from lecture, because Protestant churches were plain contrasted to the Catholic churches.

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7/15/19

Today we arrived in Brussels, and went on a tour of the city. It completely differed from my expectations, but I am already enjoying it so much.

One of the big differences is that there is a lot more graffiti art on the walls between buildings. While we have not fully explored the whole city, compared to the uniformity and cleanliness of Amsterdam, Brussels indeed seems to hold the title of “cartoon capital of Belgium” (De Vries 228). It is quite fun to see these pieces as I walk around, because it gives an atmosphere of freedom and creativity. 

Another way I felt this atmosphere was through the variety of the buildings that we walked by. Jeroen explained in lecture that Belgium was built with little restrictions or regulations, and especially after seeing uniform buildings throughout the Netherlands, the contrast between all the buildings in Brussels emphasized this fact. We walked only a few meters and suddenly it felt like we were in Paris, with cream colored pillars and flat roofs, and very precisely manicured gardens. Then we only turned a corner and suddenly were met with Gothic detail, with gold touches and statues leading up to a tall clock tower. What looked like a cathedral was actually the city hall! 

The “food culture” mentioned in lecture was heavily present along the small streets leading up to the main square. This was another aspect I was very grateful to have, and did not feel very much while we were in the Netherlands. Every few meters there would be another waffle or chocolate shop, and many restaurants were advertising their oysters or lobsters. I appreciated that we were staying in the city center, and that the shops here did not close at 6 PM like most of the shops in Amsterdam. 

While Brussels is not as crowded as Amsterdam, it presents the same chaotic, energetic vibe; however, the vibe stems from different places. I face a grafitti colored skate park in my room. The architecture, the food, and the street art give a more freeing atmosphere, and even the landscape is not flat like the Netherlands. Something I observed and will see if it changes as I explore is that if the people make the city in Amsterdam, perhaps the city makes the people in Brussels. 

The most surprising observation I made was that I was not expecting two neighboring countries to have completely different cultures and landscapes, which was highlighted during lecture. When I go from Los Angeles to Seattle, you still see the same shaped houses, and the skyscrapers can be comparable to each other. There are just as many food places in LA as there are in Seattle. However, even between two regions that partially share the same language, the history, culture, and identity are completely different. I am very much looking forward to learning more about this country.

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7/12/19

Today, our last day in the Netherlands, I visited Rotterdam, which again was different from all the other cities we had visited in the Netherlands. The city reminded me a lot of our home of San Francisco or Los Angeles, with its tall, modern skyscrapers and lack of canals.

This city tied in with our lecture of World War 2 and the Netherlands because it was the bombing of Rotterdam that made the Dutch surrender to Germany. The lights on the ground marking the extent of the fire, were connected to the completely new buildings that were post 1940s, from where we started our tour. However, even beyond the ‘Fire Line,’ there were many modern buildings, which made Rotterdam very different from the other Dutch cities we had seen and a lot more like the ones from the US.

However, like a forest after a fire, the bombing enabled crazy new creations to be built. Prime examples include the Market Hall, which has an indoor deli market, surrounded by apartments and penthouses. Another includes the Cube Houses, in which all the furniture must be custom made to fit the odd walls. If Amsterdam has become renovated to catch up with the ever-growing number of tourists, Rotterdam represents the mix between modern and old, with the original harbors being connected by new bridges shaped like swans. It was similar to the Hague in that the Hague also had renovated parts of the Binnenhof, but the atmosphere was much more urban in Rotterdam.

Another similarity was that the humor of Utrecht could be found in Rotterdam as well. Several of the buildings and monuments we visited included nicknames given by the Rotterdam people, such as the Shark’s Fin for the Centraal Station and the Gnome with the Buttplug for a Santa statue oddly placed on the street.

Lastly, like with each city we visited, Rotterdam has so much history that extends beyond 1940. The Migrant Monument, in front of the Holland America Liner building, stands as a reminder of the 100,000 people who migrated from the Netherlands to Canada and the US. There is also the first ever skyscraper built in Europe, named the White House, which survived the bombing. These all continue to show me the very new history of the United States, and that a bigger world exists outside of the United States. I loved every moment of my time here!

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7/11/19

Today we visited the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam. This was a different experience than any other we had gone through because rather than a shameful acknowledgement of the Dutch past, the museum focused on the tragic life of someone who had been a victim while in the Netherlands. It was a humbling moment that I am grateful to have the opportunity to witness. 

Because we read the Diary of Anne Frank as part of our curriculum, I have always been familiar with her story, and we have been reminded throughout the years as we study World War 2. The museum, however, allowed me to put myself in Anne’s shoes, which was something that was difficult to do through paper. Walking through the exhibits leading to the Annex gave some perspective, and I was able to feel a hint of the tension that Miep Gies and others who had to work in their offices during the day, knowing they were hiding 8 people right above their heads. Through lecture and the carefully preserved documents of Margot Frank’s school roster, the deportation documents of the 8, and identification cards, I was given a taste of how “remarkably efficient and radical” the “ruthless and ideologically motivated German civil administration” (Klep 60) was. 

The story of the woman who tried to give Anne some food over the fence while Anne was in the concentration camp, further highlights the anguish and desperation faced by the 107,000 people who were forced to starve, work, and die in these camps. It also speaks volumes to how many of the Dutch turned a blind eye to these conditions, as “for most citizens in occupied territory life continued more or less as usual” (Klep 58). I was able to visualize the ‘harsh truth’ as discussed in lecture.

However, the efforts of resistance activities, whether it be strikes, codes, or hiding people, are not to be dismissed; the ‘rosy image’ holds some truth as well. While their numbers may have been small, they serve as a reminder that mankind is not as cruel as it may seem. The examples of other hiding places introduced by Jan Erik Dubbelman, illustrate that the Annex was not the only or even the biggest hiding place created for Jews during the War. 

Of course, discrimination continues to persist in forms other than race. The Homomonument is a testament of the discrimination faced by queer people. I appreciated Jan’s efforts to continue pushing for acknowledgement and documentation of the discrimination of others beyond the Annex during World War 2, and his efforts to further let people know of the harsh truth. 

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7/10/19

Today we traveled to a town called Enkhuizen, visiting a museum and touring the town afterwards. It was significantly colder, and rain poured consistently. However, this was a new side of the Netherlands which I’m sure is more common than we think, and I appreciated the incredible view. 

The Zuiderzeemuseum was unique in that it represented a whole village. I tried smoked herring and rowing boats, and got to ‘experience what living in the 20th century’ was like. The museum fulfilled what I expected for typical living in the colonial times, and had some similarities to the colonial museums that I had visited in the United States. This lined up with the tourist image of the Netherlands as discussed in lecture, which was ‘agricultural’ and ‘traditional.’ The aspect of Enkhuizen that stayed with me was the quiet serenity of the town, including the waters. Even with the wind and rain, there was an calm and easy-going atmosphere, and people were in no rush. I may have said The Hague was an example of ‘gewoon,’  but now I think Enkhuizen is a better representation of this mentality. Even the church I visited was the least decorated on the outside and inside of the churches we have seen, and a much smaller size than the grand ones of Delft. 

I appreciate the peacefulness of the Netherlands. The flat scenic landscape with idyllic cows and fields that we pass by on our way to different cities, sometimes sprinkled with flowers and canals or bigger bodies of water, give me a sense of ease that the painters of the Hague School in the 19th century must have tried to create through “grass, milk, and cows” (Kieft 40). This view is not something I have ever come across in the United States, where there is something exciting happening everywhere, such as Coachella in the middle of the desert, or diving off of cliffs into the crashing waves. By being submerged into a land where the idyllic landscape is left alone, I have been “forced... to concentrate on the beauty of practically nothing” (Kieft 39), but with great enthusiasm, ready to embrace everything the Netherlands has to offer. 

The last unique highlight of today occurred as we were taking our tram back to the hostel. An announcement came on, and the bus driver announced that it was someone’s birthday on the tram, then asked us to sing happy birthday. The whole tram immediately started singing, and when there was a brief moment of silence because we did not know the person’s name, we all laughed together. It was the most genuine example of ‘gezellig’ I have seen in the Netherlands. In conclusion, I am growing more in love with this place! 

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7/9/19

Today we visited the Hague, as well as the Hall of Knights and House of Representatives, and the Mauritshuis. There was a lot to observe, and I saw a couple things that stood out today. 

The whole concept of being able to see a politician “on the Inner Court, which remains open and accessible” (Besamusca 4), did not really register in my head until I stepped foot in the House of Representatives. Here, the meeting hall is shaped like a theater, with regular citizens being able to come in and observe a meeting, which we would not even consider doing in the United States. The tour guide told us that when one-issue parties present “opinions on specific issues” (Besamusca 4) the seats can be more filled, as they present topics more relevant to interested citizens. The reader and lecture point out the three party families of “social democrats, liberals, and Christian Democrats” (Besamusca 5), which can be seen in the different number of seats arranged in the wings accordingly. The best we can do are attend city council meetings and serve as juries, but we do not get to see how or what political decisions are being made. Yet, the Dutch embrace the idea of an open democracy, which I believe encourages citizens to be more engaged in the wellbeing of their country. In turn, the Netherlands has a voter turnout, while the United States struggles to have more active voters. 

Another thing I noticed very clearly was the Dutch mentality of ‘gewoon,’ through the voting process for Speaker of the House as well as the concept of open democracy. In order to establish that they do not seek power or monopolize the House, the candidates for Speaker of the House in each party are newly nominated every few years, even if the current candidate has done a good job. The concept of open democracy through accessibility of the Inner Court further establishes that even high ranking officials like the Prime Minister are no higher than the ordinary citizens. Gewoon may have its downfalls, but in politics, I believe it benefits the country and its citizens.

The final thing I noticed was a painting by Willem van Hecht titled ‘Apelles Painting Campaspe,’ which I thought was the most interesting (even more than  Girl with a Pearl Earring). The title is one of the least interesting things about it. Apelles and Campaspe only take up a fraction of the painting, and instead focus is drawn to the rest of the room and even to the other rooms in the background, where the walls are covered with paintings and sculptures. The unique aspect of this painting is that even the artwork in the background has been painted with as much detail as the subject, so much so that they could be their own pieces. No detail has been spared, and the Delft blue pottery in the lower right corner has even more detail than still life paintings of only Delft blue pottery. Rembrandt is remembered as depicting everyday life “like an episode in a theatrical drama, not of people posing, but of playing out a role” (Kieft 38). Hecht may have been influenced by Rembrandt to abandon traditional Dutch genres of the time, but I think someone would have to have a touch of insanity to have the patience and precision needed to create a painting such as this. For this near madness, I think this painting may be my favorite of all time.

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7/8/19

Today we visited the city of Utrecht, which houses the 2nd oldest university in the Netherlands. Something that stood out to me was the fact that historical buildings and monuments are all very much integrated into present day Utrecht, but rather than being super careful to preserve and respect, the people of Utrecht are not afraid to change the scenery as they see fit. Perhaps it was the way in which the professor presented her commentary, but I very much enjoyed the attitude of Utrecht.

The first unique feature of Utrecht that was different from Delft and Amsterdam was the different colored bricks that represent the churches and castles that used to exist before they were destroyed by various causes. While serving as a reminder and tribute to the history that existed before, people just walk along those brick roads without a second glance, minding their business. This is different from America, because we either completely destroy and rebuild, or take care to make sure nothing further happens to a memorial. I thought Utrecht’s method of remembering the past was refreshing because they do not glorify events or ignore tragedies. A stronger sense of the Dutch mentality of ‘zuinig’ was felt in Utrecht than in Amsterdam, in part due to the older past, dating as far back as the 1600′s, since people live in the same apartments that had once served as clubs for those in the 1600′s. There are also old Catholic convents that serve as art schools, and the Pope’s home serves as the law department of Utrecht University.

Yet, another aspect I enjoyed was that the people of Utrecht have managed to make the city their own, representing what they find interesting in current day and adding it to the already existing framework. From the UFO on their transit building, to the colorfully lighted tunnel that used to be a passage for cargo from when the Netherlands had a big role in trade, adds further character to the already existing ‘old’ architecture. There are so many Miffy references that serve as fun Easter eggs for visitors. Catholic churches torn down following William the Orange’s revolt house gardens in their courtyards, and chunks of convents missing from when the Spanish bombed the city are replaced by trees. 

In lecture and the reader, Queen Maxima is noted for her controversial statement that the “Dutch identity does not exist” (Besamusca 3). However, I would like to contest that using my observations of Utrecht. The people of Utrecht have integrated their own expressions, humor, and identity through the many ‘artworks,’ as our tour guide labelled, on the sides of canals, on lamp posts, and buildings. Furthermore, these pieces are normal and accepted, instead of frowned upon and complained about. When visiting Utrecht, I felt a strong sense of what kind of people the Dutch are. If there is a Dutch identity, Utrecht serves as the perfect example, with its rich history and quirks that save the city from becoming lost to the past.

[joannetraveldiaries]

7/5/19

Today we traveled to Delft, where I was able to experience a more traditional Dutch city. I loved every moment of when we were there, especially when we visited the Old and New Churches. 

It is hard to picture that the Museum Prinsenhof Delft once served as the headquarters from which William worked on “plans for a union of seventeen Dutch provinces” (Prak 34). The long legacy of the Netherlands is also demonstrated by the fact that William of Orange was the first person to be killed by a handgun, which is something we can so easily acquire today. Even in the present, descendants of William of Orange are buried in the New Church.

The churches reflected the paintings and descriptions of the Protestant churches that we saw in the other art museums and in lecture, complete with the burial sites of the wealthy that started the phrase ‘stinking rich.’ The stained glass windows are what really caught my eye. Even without the help of precise paintbrushes, the windows are so intricate and detailed, showing the artistic skill that flourished during the Golden Age in Europe. The high arches and windows are almost identical to the church interiors painted by PJ Saenredam, and to be able to see the mausoleum built for William of Orange, who is credited with liberating the Dutch from the Spanish, was breathtaking, with many statues symbolizing the virtues of the Republic.

 I was amazed by the preservation of all the buildings around the square and the fact that where we walked were the same grounds that the Dutch had walked back in the 17th century. The bullet holes in the museum exist from the night William was murdered; the square in front of the old city hall where the murderer of William of Orange was brutally tortured is the same ground that I walked across while visiting Delft blue porcelain shops. Today, the image I received was the one Esmee introduced in lecture of a ‘utopian’ tourist industry. Everyone was pleasant, the neighborhood was traditional, the canal water was cleaner, and compared to the bustling city life of Amsterdam, it felt more ‘gezellig.’

My sentiments are reinforced from something I noted earlier this week: while the Netherlands may be a modern society, the Dutch are careful to acknowledge their past and document how they have come to be this modern society, which is not something I have experienced while in the United States, and something I continue to admire in the Netherlands.

[joannetraveldiaries]

7/4/19

Today, we visited the National Maritime Museum, where we learned a bit about the ships used by the VOC and WIC, as well as a little about the historical events and time period of the 17th century. An exhibit that stood out to me was the one about the MS Oranje, on which hundreds of inhabitants that lived in the Dutch East Indies boarded to leave Indonesia following World War 2.

Before we came to the museum, we learned in lecture that the Indonesian colonial population had gone through much turmoil and tragedy following the end of the Dutch East Indies colony, having no place once they came back to the Netherlands. I originally had a negative perspective limited to disapproval of the displacement of natives during colonization, and what I heard in lecture surprised me but did not throw out my previous mentality. However, this exhibit brought to reality what I had heard in lecture, and allowed me to empathize with the Indos and Indonesian-born Dutch who talked about their experiences aboard the MS Oranje.

Repatriation, while logical in theory, has caused emotional stress and heartbreak for people who decided to come back. While they may have been Dutch in blood, their origins were in Jakarta, and having to say a permanent goodbye to the people they had grown up with, not knowing what lay in front of them, must have been terrifying. A couple of interviewees recount their experience on the MS Oranje has the most happy experience of their childhoods, compared to their restricted childhoods, when it was too dangerous to even step outside the house, while others view it as continuous sorrow and dread for the future. Their apprehensions proved to be true. An interviewee says that he has no place he can call home, due to not being able to go back to Jakarta, yet not being able to fully integrate in the Netherlands upon arrival due to a different upbringing; the contrast reflects the limited “self-identification as belonging to one undifferentiated ‘postcolonial community’” (Oostindie 55). The same must have been for the other colonies that were offered repatriation.

Through this exhibit, I have come to realize that colonization has caused more damage than simply the natives. Even the same interviewee who says he has no place to call home does not blame the native Indonesians who did not want them there and scared them into sleeping with weapons, terrified that the natives would kill them. The Dutch were unreasonable with their denial of Indonesia’s independence, and he sympathizes with the Indonesians who wanted their freedom. With their homeland kicking them out and their new home not welcoming them, the Indos represent the thousands of people who were given “little sympathy for their plight” (Oostindie 54), and I am grateful that I was able to become more aware of the details of history.