haruri179

[haruri179]

Travel in Old Japan with Ukiyo-e, "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido"  #2 Shinagawa (5/5)

‘Shinagawa, the Sunrise’, “Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido” drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige 

What is Shinagawa-ness that is not drawn?

However, there is one thing that is not depicted in this print of Shinagawa's character. In this print, beyond the four teahouses (2), there are two-storey buildings, which are the inns and shops of the station. In addition to taking care of the guests, many of the inns had women called "meshimori-onna" to take care of the guests at night.

The government allowed women to sell spring in Edo only in Yoshiwara, but because Yoshiwara was very expensive, there were many unofficial places where such women could be found.

“Toto Meisho: The Night Cherry Blossoms of Yoshiwara Nakanomachi”, drawn by Hiroshige Utagawa (owned by Tokyo National Museum), included in ColBase (https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/cobas-48432)

  However, "meshimori-onna" were semi-approved, and Shinagawa staiton, which can almost be said to be within Edo, was the most prosperous. For this reason, there were many people who came all the way to Shinagawa station to see the "meshimori-onna".

Continue to Kawasaki

[haruri179]

Travel in Old Japan with Ukiyo-e, "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido"  #2 Shinagawa (4/5)

‘Shinagawa, the Sunrise’, “Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido” drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige 

The Daimyo procession again

The first print, "Nihonbashi," depicted the head of the “daimyo” procession coming across Nihonbashi, but this print depicts the tail end of the “daimyo” procession (5) passing to the south.

The “Daimyo” processions were a common sight on the highway, but those who were on the highways had to move aside when the “daimyo” processions passed by. In this print, there are people sitting on the right side of the road, avoiding the “daimyo” procession. In historical dramas, people bow their heads at this time, but in reality, they did not necessarily have to bow their heads, and in this print, people do not bow their heads.

By the way, this print is subtitled "Sunrise". In "Nihonbashi", which depicts the early morning before the sun rises, only the lower part of the sky was light red, whereas in this painting, the dark indigo color is only in the very top part, and about half of the sky is light red, indicating that the sun has risen than in "Nihonbashi". Hiroshige used the color of the sky to depict the different hours of the morning.

Moreover, as Hiroshige depicted, travelers who left Nihonbashi in the early morning usually arrived at Shinagawa around sunrise. That is to say, there is a temporal continuity between "Nihonbashi" and "Shinagawa". In addition, since "Nihonbashi" and "Shinagawa" share the common motif of a “daimyo” procession, readers who see these two prints will imagine the “daimyo” procession leaving Nihonbashi in the early morning and passing through Shinagawa around sunrise.

In this way, Hiroshige's "Shinagawa" depicts things that characterized Shinagawa at the time, including its symbolic sea, and by creating continuity with the first print, "Nihonbashi". This could be said to be Hiroshige's way of making the reader feel that they themselves are traveling.

*Ukiyo-e of "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" drawn by Utagawa   Hiroshige (owned by Tokyo National Museum), included in "ColBase”(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/cobas-47577)    

[haruri179]

Travel in Old Japan with Ukiyo-e, "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido"  #2 Shinagawa (3/5)

‘Shinagawa, the Sunrise’, “Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido” drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige 

What is the name of this mountain?

To the right of the “Bouzi-kui”(3), just beside the road, there is a mountain (4). There are two theories about this mountain: one is "Gotenyama" and the other is "Yatsuyama".

“Edokiriezu: Shiba-Takanawa-henezu”, Owariya Seishichi edition (owned by   the National Diet Library), included in the National Diet Library   Digital Collection(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/dignl-1286663)

According to the map of this area in the Edo period, Gotenyama, which was known as one of the best cherry blossom viewing spots around Edo, was located a little further back from the highway.

However, at the end of the Edo period, when the offshore area of Shinagawa was reclaimed for the construction of gun batteries, the nearby Gotenyama was cut down and the soil used to build the batteries, so there is no Gotenyama today.

Yatsuyama, on the other hand, was a hill on the northern border of Shinagawa-juku, just beside the highway, but it has also been cut down and is now flat.

It is reasonable to think that the mountain (4) is Yatsuyama in terms of its layout. However, Gotenyama is well known as a famous place in Shinagawa, and Hiroshige left many prints of cherry blossoms in Gotenyama.

"Eto Meisho; ‘Gotenyama Yuukyou’" drawn by Hiroshige Utagawa, (owned by MFA_Boston), included in the ARC Ukiyo-e Portal Database. (https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/arc_nishikie-MFA_21_8907)

And because Hiroshige often depicted deformed objects rather than real ones, as in the case of the “Kido” in "Nihonbashi", it is impossible to determine which of these mountains is which.

*Ukiyo-e of "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" drawn by Utagawa   Hiroshige (owned by Tokyo National Museum), included in "ColBase”(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/cobas-47577)    

[haruri179]

Travel in Old Japan with Ukiyo-e, "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido"  #2 Shinagawa (2/5)

‘Shinagawa, the Sunrise’, “Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido” drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige

Where is it drawn?

Four shabby stores with red lanterns (2) are lined up by the coast, and women who are apparently waiting for customers are also depicted. 

These stores are "Chaya (teahouse)" that offer tea and sweets to travelers for rest and relaxation. These “Chaya” are relatively plain one.

Shinagawa station originally consisted of two stations, Kita (North) -shinagawa station and Minami (South) -shinagawa station, across the Meguro River. However, the sea off Shinagawa was known for its good view, and many “Chaya” were built further north (on the Edo side) of Kita-Shinagawa station. Therefore, the area was recognized as "Kachi Shinjuku (new station)" in 1722, and Shinagawa station became a station consisting of three stations.

“Edokiriezu: Shiba-Takanawa-henezu”, Owariya Seishichi edition (owned by  the National Diet Library), included in the National Diet Library   Digital Collection(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/dignl-1286663) 

So what areas of Shinagawa station does this painting depict?

To the right of the foreground of this print, there is a wooden stick (3).

This is called a "Bouzi-kui” (Stake on the side of the highway), and it was placed on the road to indicate the borders of stations and reference points for distances. In this print, the sea is on the left of the road, so the front of the print is the direction of Edo and the back is the direction of Kyoto, and this “Bouzi-kui” indicates the north end of Shinagawa station. Therefore, the composition of this print is looking south from the north end of Shinagawa station. This location is around the railroad crossing beside the present-day Keikyu Kita Shinagawa Station.

I think the “Bouzi-kui” seems to say "South of here is the control of the local administrator Nakae ・・・・".

*Ukiyo-e of "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" drawn by Utagawa   Hiroshige (owned by Tokyo National Museum), included in "ColBase”(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/cobas-47577)  

[haruri179]

Travel in Old Japan with Ukiyo-e, "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido"  #2 Shinagawa (1/5)

‘Shinagawa, the Sunrise’, “Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido” drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige

Anyway the SEA

The distance from Nihonbashi to Shinagawa, the first station, is about 8 km. Shinagawa was a long and narrow station stretching 2 km in length. It was located between present-day Keikyu Kita Shinagawa Station and Aomono Yokocho Station.

The most striking feature of Hiroshige's "Shinagawa" is the sea (1), which occupies the left half of the picture. However, as is clear from the current map, the sea is not seen from the place where Shinagawa station once stood.

However, in the maps of the Edo period, the Tokaido runs right next to the coastline from around Oo-Kido in Takanawa.

“Edokiriezu: Shiba-Takanawa-henezu”, Owariya Seishichi edition (owned by the National Diet Library), included in the National Diet Library Digital Collection(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/dignl-1286663) 

The coastline around Shinagawa was later reclaimed on a large scale.

If you look at the sea (1) in Hiroshige's "Shinagawa," you will see many ships at anchor or under sail.

These ships are called "Benzaibune", which have a single mast and a single horizontal sail, and they came from all over Japan to Edo (now Tokyo) loaded with goods. However, since the port of Edo was shallow, many ships did not enter Edo directly, but anchored at Shinagawa, and from there they reloaded goods onto small boats to be transported to Edo.

*Ukiyo-e of "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige (owned by Tokyo National Museum), included in "ColBase”(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/cobas-47577)

[haruri179]

Traveling between Prints  #1  Nihonbashi to Shinagawa

An imaginary travel not depicted in prints

   From Nihonbashi to Shinagawa, the first staiton on the Tokaido, is about 8 km, so what was it like to travel between the two stations that is not depicted in Hiroshige's "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido"?

   Starting from Nihonbashi, the travelers went south, crossed the Kyobashi (-bashi means “bridge”), passed through the present-day Ginza area, and crossed the Shinbashi, Kanasugibashi, and Shibabashi. And from this area, the Tokaido curves to the right.

“Edokiriezu: Shiba-Takanawa-henezu”, Owariya Seishichi edition (owned by the National Diet Library), included in the National Diet Library Digital Collection(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/dignl-1286663)

The first print, "Nihonbashi," depicts a place where “Kosatu” were lined up, and there used to be six such places in Edo City. One of which was located across from the Mita Hachiman Shrine, which still exists today.

Shortly after passing this “Kosatu” place, there was a “Kido”, which was also depicted in the first print, "Nihonbashi", but this one was called "Oo-kido" in Takanawa. "Oo-kido" was set up at the boundary of Edo on the highway to control the flow of people and goods into and out of Edo.

This is the “Takanawa Oo-kido” drawn by Hiroshige.

 “Takanawa Oo-kido” in "Views of Famous Places in Tokaido” drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige (owned by the National Diet Library), included in the National Diet Library Digital Collection　(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/dignl-1309476)

The group depicted is the “daimyo” (lords) procession that was also depicted in the first print, "Nihonbashi. Next to this “daimyo” procession, the short stone wall with what looks like grass growing on it is an “Oo-kido”, and the building you see behind it which supervised the entry and exit of people and goods.

It is said that Edo is only as far as “Oo-kido”, people who came from Nihonbashi to see off travelers also turned back at this point. At the time, Takanawa was on the outskirts of Edo, but today it is one of the central city of Tokyo.

Once we crossed the “Oo-kido” in Takanawa, we were almost at the Shinagawa station.

Continue to "Shinagawa"

[haruri179]

Travel in Old Japan with Ukiyo-e, "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido"  #1 Nihonbashi  (4/4)

‘Nihonbashi, the Morning scenery’, “Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido” drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige 

    On the left side of the print, beside the bridge, there are peddlers carrying on their shoulders a stick with baskets or colanders strapped to each end filled with fish or vegetables (4).

   In the Edo period, there was a fish market right near Nihonbashi, and the fish market continued to be located in Nihonbashi until it was moved to Tsukiji in the early 20th century. The vegetable market was also located a little north of Nihonbashi. As the fish and vegetable markets were nearby, these peddlers came and went in the Nihonbashi area at that time.

   In this way, "Nihonbashi," the first print of the "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido," depicts the people and things that characterized Nihonbashi at that time, as well as devising ways to give the viewer a strong impression of the beginning of the journey.

Continue to "Shinagawa"

*Ukiyo-e of "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige (owned by Tokyo National Museum), included in "ColBase”(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/cobas-47577)

[haruri179]

Travel in Old Japan with Ukiyo-e, "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido"  #1 Nihonbashi  (3/4)

‘Nihonbashi, the Morning scenery’, “Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido” drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige

   In the center of the print, the group of people crossing the bridge to this side (2) is a “daimyo” (lords) procession.

   In the Edo period, “daimyo” lived in their own territories and in Edo (Tokyo) every other year. This meant that “daimyo” and their vassals would travel back and forth between their territories and Edo every year, and “daimyo” procession were a common sight on the highways. In this print, the head of the “daimyo” procession has just crossed the bridge. This side of the bridge is south, and the Tokaido goes south from Nihonbashi, so this “daimyo” procession has just left Edo for their territory.

   This print is subtitled "Morning Scenery". In those days, travelers left Nihonbashi in the early morning. In this print, the upper part of the sky is dark indigo and the lower part is light red, indicating that it is still early morning before the sky is bright enough.

    In early morning, the “daimyo” procession about to leave, and “kido”, which is closer to the Nihonbashi than it actually was and has been pointed out as being too large, strongly reminds the viewer of the beginning of the journey and the beginning of this series.

*Ukiyo-e of "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige (owned by Tokyo National Museum), included in "ColBase”(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/cobas-47577)

[haruri179]

Travel in Old Japan with Ukiyo-e, "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido"  #1 Nihonbashi (2/4)

‘Nihonbashi, the Morning scenery’, "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige

   The Tokaido journey begins in Nihonbashi. Nihonbashi was located east of Edo Castle, which was the center of Edo at that time. By the way, this print is a composition looking toward the bridge from the riverbank, but which riverbank is drawn in this print?

   First, look at (1) the wooden door, which is drawn in the foreground. This is called "kido", and it was installed on the roads here and there in Edo for defense and crime prevention. From midnight to early morning, "kido" was closed, making it impossible to move around the city freely.

   In this print, Nihonbashi is drawn behind the open kido, and (2) a group of people who cross the bridge to this side is drawn. And on the left side in front of the bridge, there is a place where a lot of things with letters written on the top of the stick are standing (3).

   The stick with this board is called a "Kosatsu" on which the laws and regulations decided by the government are written, and it was raised high so that it would be noticeable.

   From the old map at that time, “kido”(1) and “Kosatsu”(3) were on the south bank of the bridge, so Hiroshige's "Nihonbashi" is a composition looking north from the south riverbank.

'Nihonbashi', "Thirty-six Views of Mt. Fuji" drawn by Katsushika Hokusai (owned by Tokyo National Museum),  included in "ColBase”(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/cobas-47674)

   This ukiyo-e is "Nihonbashi", one of the world-famous "Thirty-six Views of Mt. Fuji" by Katsushika Hokusai. The print depicts a view looking west from the top of the Nihonbashi, with Edo Castle at the end of the river and Mount Fuji further behind. At that time, Edo Castle and Mt. Fuji could be seen from Nihonbashi.

   This is the current Nihonbashi seen from the south bank of the river. The location of the bridge is the same as it was in the Edo period, but the bridge has been replaced with a different one, and there is an expressway running overhead. Mt. Fuji can no longer be seen from the bridge, and the scenery has completely changed since then.

*Ukiyo-e of "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" drawn by Utagawa Hiroshige (owned by Tokyo National Museum), included in "ColBase”(https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/cobas-47577)

[haruri179]

Travel in Old Japan with Ukiyo-e, "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido"  #1 Nihonbashi (1/4)

Let's go on a timeless imaginary journey on the "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" !!

“Portrait of Hiroshige" by Utagawa Toyokuni III (owned by the Tokyo National Museum), included in the ARC Ukiyo-e Portal Database. (https://jpsearch.go.jp/item/arc_nishikie-tnm_C0028705)

   Hiroshige Utagawa is one of Japan's leading ukiyo-e artists, along with Katsushika Hokusai from "Thirty-six Views of Mt. Fuji".

   "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" is one of Hiroshige's most celebrated works.

   Around 1700, farmers and women began traveling to visit temples and shrines, and people became more interested in traveling. During the Edo period, five highways were built for the passage of officials and the transportation of letters.

    In particular, the Tokaido, which connects Edo (now Tokyo) and Kyoto with a total length of about 500 km, was the most important highway. Tokaido is also very famous and has become the subject of many ukiyo-e prints. Among them, Hiroshige's "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" was particularly popular among people.

   On the highway, "Shukuba (stations)" were set up to provide people and horses for the traffic of officials and the transportation of goods, as well as facilities for travelers to rest and stay. There are 53 stations on the Tokaido, and "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" is a series of 55 prints depicting Edo / Nihonbashi, Kyoto / Sanjo Ohashi, and 53 stations.

   In "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido", the scenery, highlights, famous places and specialties of the station and its surroundings are drawn in detail, and you can see the culture, customs and local conditions of the Edo period. At that time, ukiyo-e was cheap and everyone could buy it, so ukiyo-e took people on an imaginary journey, like a TV show.

   So, let's go on a timeless imaginary journey on the "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido", just like the people of that time!

[haruri179]

notice: "Travel in Old Japan with Ukiyo-e" will start next month

Next month, we will start a new series, "Travel in Old Japan with Ukiyo-e".

   Hiroshige Utagawa, one of Japan's leading ukiyo-e artists.

   Let's travel together in old Japan by taking a closer look at his masterpiece, "Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido" !

   Coming soon.  Don't miss it!

[haruri179]

Shinnenn (New Year) (6/6)

What is Osechi ?

   "Osechi" is a traditional dish that can be eaten with zoni for the three-day New Year celebration called Sanganichi. Osechi is a variety of traditional and auspicious Japanese dishes in a special box called a "jubako", which looks like a bento box (lunch box).

   In the olden days, these traditional and auspicious dishes were handmade at home at the end of the year, but nowadays it is common to eat the purchased "osechi" to spend the year-end and New Year holidays slowly.

Toso, zoni and osechi are also New Year's kigo (season words).

[haruri179]

Shinnenn (New Year) (5/6)

What to eat the Shinnenn (New Year)

   The New Year's celebrations are mainly three days, which are called "Sanganichi". During this time, we eat "zoni" and "osechi".

   https://forest17.com/

   Zoni is a traditional soup dish made from mochi (rice cakes) and vegetables, and the shape of mochi and the seasoning of the soup are very diverse depending on the region. This custom has been around for over 1000 years.

   Zoni always contains mochi, but for Japanese people who eat rice, mochi was once a special occasion food. Therefore, mochi is used for zoni and Kagami-mochi.

[haruri179]

Shinnenn (New Year) (4/6)

What to do in the Shinnnenn (New Year)

   When the New Year arrives, we first drink sake called "Toso" to get rid of the evil spirits of the year and wish for longevity.

   This custom is said to have been introduced from China more than 1000 years ago, and it has been practiced by ordinary people since the Edo period. Originally, it is a special sake that is a mixture of several kinds of crude drugs, but nowadays, ordinary sake is often used.

[haruri179]

Shinnenn (New Year) (3/6)

What is Shimenawa?

   There is a Shimenawa as a New Year's decoration lined up with Kagami-mochi and Kadomatsu. Shimenawa consists of a twisted rice-straw rope and white paper cut in strips. It separates a holy place from other unclean places and is considered a barrier against evil spirits.

   By decorating the Shimenawa, it is shown that it is a suitable place to welcome the Toshigami.

[haruri179]

Shinnenn (New Year) (2/6)

New Year decorations in Japan

   Various decorations are made at the end of the year to welcome the new toshigami. The most famous of these is "Kagami-moochi"(round rice‐cake). There are various forms of "Kagami-moochi", but it is standard to stack two large and small round "mochi (raice cake)" and put "Dai (bitter orange)" on it.

   https://forest17.com/

   Kagami-moochi is an offering to the Toshigami, and it is believed that the Toshigami resides here. In recent years, it is common to decorate Kagami-mochi sold in containers because of its convenience and hygiene when eating later.

    Kadomatsu is another major decoration for the New Year. Kadomatsu is a decoration made of pine and bamboo that can be erected in front of the gate of the house, and is displayed as a mark to the Toshigami.

   Kagami-mochi and Kadomatsu are also New Year's kigo (season words).

[haruri179]

Shinnenn (New Year) -(1/6)

Happy New Year!!

I sincerely pray for your happiness!

What is Shinnnenn (New Year) in Japan?

   The Japanese have always valued the "hatu (first)". Above all, the "Shinnenn (New Year)" is the beginning of everything and is the most important event of the year for Japanese people. Saijiki is divided into four seasons, Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter, but since there are many "kigo"(seasonal words) related to the New Year, only the New Year is often a separate volume. This month, I will introduce "kigo" related to "Shinnenn".

   In Japan, it has long been believed that there is a god called "Toshigami" who comes home at the beginning of the year and brings us the happiness and health of the year. The New Year is an event to invite the "Toshigami" of the year and give hospitality. "Toshigami" and "Toshitokuzinn", which have the same meaning, are also New Year's kigo.