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UNDERSTANDING DRAPES

Fashion draping is an important part of fashion design. Draping for fashion design is the process of positioning and pinning fabric on a dress form to develop the structure of a garment design. A garment can be draped using a design sketch as a basis, or a fashion designer can play with the way fabric falls to create new designs at the start of the apparel design process. After draping, the fabric is removed from the dress form and used to create the sewing pattern for the garment.

There are three types of grains on every kind of fabric which makes the usage of fabrics in much interesting.These Grains plays very important role in “DRAPING”. 

These three types of fabric grains are :

Cross Grain: Cross grain refers to the threads that run parallel to the cut edge of the fabric (the width) and so are perpendicular to the selvage.  On Grain: Sometimes referred to as the grain line . It refers to the threads that run parallel to the selvage.  Bias grain: It's the 45˚ angle between lengthwise and crosswise grain. Fabric cut on the bias is stretchy.

(PICTURES GIVEN BELOW ARE THE FABRICS IN THE SAME SEQUENCE FOR A BETTER UNDERSTANDING).

SAND-WASH-

Fabric has good fluidity on bias and off grain but less fluidity in off grain. It forms 4 cones in every kind of grain.

TWEED-

Their is less fluidity in cross grain, but in on-grain and in bias grain their is more fluidity. Also in bias grain this fabric move away from the  body, but in rest other grains fabric stays close to the body. No. of cones in off grain are 3 and in rest are 5.

POPLIN-

Their is less fluidity in cross grain, but in on-grain and in bias grain their is more fluidity. Also, in cross grain and in bias grain fabric moves away from the body.No of cones in cross grain is 4 and in rest are 5.

SILK ORGANZA

Their is less fluidity in cross grain, rigid fluidity in on grain and more fluidity on bias grain. Also fabric is a lot away from the body in all the grains, minor differences can be seen.

 SATIN-

Their are less flairs on and off grain but in bias grain cones and flairs are comparatively less. On grain fabric is slightly away from the body, off grain is comparatively less away from the body and in bias grain it is straight to the body.

WOOL CREPE-

Their is good fluidity of fabric which is off and bias grain, but in cross grain fluidity is less. Fabric stays away from the body in bias grain but in on grain it is strait to the body, and in off grain fabric stays towards the body.

TWILL-

Fluidity of fabric is very good in on grain and off grain but in bias grain fabric is slightly away from the body.

ORGANDY-

Fabric stays away from the body on and bias grain, and in cross grain fabric goes straight towards to the body. 

GEORGETTE-

Fabric has very less flaires in on and off frains but in bias gives beautiful amout of  flaired. It staysslightly aways frm the body in off grain.

SILK SATIN-

This fabric is very fluid in off and bias grain and stays way from the body due to its lighter weight.

CREPE-

This fabric is flaired in bias grain and comparitively there are lesser cones in other grains. Also fabric stay away from the body on on grain but in cross grain fabric is stightly close to body.

JACQUARD-

It is an amazing fabric to work with, due to its weight it stays close to the body in bias grain and away in cross grain. Fluidity is more in bias grain and lesser in other grains.

POLY TISSUE-

I personally love this fabric. It has rigid fluidity and falls away from the body in cross and on grain and close to the body in bias grain.

DOUBLE JERSEY-

This fabric gives the most amazing flairs and cones in bias grain. Also fabric stays away from the body giving it an amazing silhouette.

CHIFFON-

In this light weight fabric fabric falls away from the body. In bias grain fabric gives more flairs as compared to any other grain.

MUSLIN-

Muslin being a raw form of fabric, have different draping behavior. It has very few flairs on grain and a little more in off grain and most of the comes into bias grain.Also it falls straight to the body in other grains it falls away from the body due to its stiffness.

So during the next fabric research session for your favorite dress, take up a look at these falls and drapes, and decide which one you fall for. :P