ancestryadventures

[ancestryadventures]

Pause!

Due to new family, financial and life commitments, the Ancestry Adventures blog will be going on hold until further notice. I thanks everyone who has read and benefitted from reading this blog to date, please get in touch if you have any questions! Nevertheless, with or without the blog, the Adventure continues...

[ancestryadventures]

Shamanism & Polytheism: An Interview with Manda Scott

My time at Schumacher College provided me rich opportunities to connect and learn from seekers from all walks of life. One such person was Manda Scott, a woman who has evolved from veterinary nursing, into accomplished writing and shamanic practice. She is currently studying Schumacher’s Sustainable Economics masters, in order to better interface (and influence) the existing structures that exist in our society.

Manda Interview

Manda Scott, image from konyves.blog.hu

In this interview, we go to the truth of so-called ‘Barbarian Britain’ that existed before the Romans arrived, and the gods they worshiped. Manda shares her own story around shamanism and the current state of the world; a revealing and insightful discussion.

CLICK HERE TO LISTEN TO THE PODCAST

Reflections

I was impressed with Manda’s ease and openness when talking about Shamanic dreaming and gods. Of particular interest for me was her assertion that as the Romans successfully at wiped out the traditional shamanic lineage Britain, nobody could comfortably claim to know about its shamanic practice with certainty.

What we do know, Manda says, is that there are gods of place, and although we may have mostly lost connection with them they are still very much here. Using models from other cultures (such as the Native American medicine wheel), we may have the structure to begin connecting once again. This gives me a possible reframe when using foreign practices which do not directly link to my lineage or culture - such my Buddhist and South American Shamanic experinces.

The first of the four-part Boudica dreaming series

In writing the Boudica series, Manda has combined cognitive research and shamanic dreaming; combining a balance of historical evidence and intuition. This resonates with my own approach on this ancestral journey and it reminds me to look at situations from many angles.

Animism & Polytheism

Most modern religions are Monotheistic, which means, that they believe in one supreme God. Pagan beliefs (such as my Nordic, Anglo-Saxon and pre-Roman Briton ancestors) often feature many gods, this is known as Polytheism.

Yuval Noah Harari, in Sapiens, clarifies this further: “Polytheism does not necessarily dispute the existence of a single power or law governing the entire universe. In fact, most polytheist and even animist religions recognise such a supreme power that stands behind all the different gods, demons and holy rocks.” He goes on to give further examples.

This to me speaks of the gods of place that Manda speaks of, but also the unseen power in ancient cultures sometimes referred to as ‘great spirit’ or ‘source energy’. Furthermore, Manda speaks of how she relates to “wild things” more easily than humans. A connection with spirits of the animal and plant kingdom is known as Animism.

I recently watched this film: Studi Ghibli’s ‘Princes Mononoke’

Princess Mononoke Trailer

This film represents a richer and more diverse relationship to spirituality than I get from religions such as Christianity. This shamanic relationship to the world and spirit is most definitely what rings true moving forward in my quest.

For Manda, although many of Britain’s traditions have been lost, to live in a place where her ancestral gods live is still ‘home’. To be in any other part of the world where practices have survived (eg. North America, Scandinavia or Mongolia) would not be worshipping the gods in her lineage. Through tracing my DNA, I feel more open to having relationships with other Gods, not just of this land... at least that is what my heart is calling me to do.

The adventure continues...

[ancestryadventures]

Schumacher College: Wassail Ceremony and Pilgrimage with Satish Kumar and Rupert Shaldrake

After the relentless travelling, it was time for me to settle down for a while and get some solid ground under my feet. I couldn’t have found a much better place than Schumacher College.

River Dart, near Staverton, Devon. Jan 2017

About Schumacher College

In 1991, Schumacher College first opened its doors to students longing to educate themselves on everything environmental, educational, ecological, economical and existential! Situated on the Dartington State, near Totnes, it has evolved as one of the leading alternative education centres in the country.

Schumacher College, Dartingon, Devon. Taken from their website

They offer a wide variety of short- and post-graduate courses on rich, diverse subjects such as Ecology and Spirituality, Sacred Activism, and Becoming Indigenous. It was my experience supporting this latter programme while at Embercombe which inspired me to come here. I arrived at Schumacher in a voluntary capacity, however, I was soon immersed in a community of deep thinkers and shining examples from around the world. One of the community events held on the first week was a traditional apple-prostration ceremony, a Wassailing! 

Wassailing

This is Medieval English ritual takes place in orchards, where the community bands together, singing songs and drinking mulled cider, to inspire the apple-spirits to bring about a good harvest. The garden team on site invited the community to get involved by first painting a post of over fifty different trees they had in their fledgling orchard. I was impressed by how everyone got stuck in and gave their posts a lick of beauty!

Posts painted for Wassailing ceremony, Schumacher, Devon. Jan 2017

Once they were painted it was time for the community to come together - donned with costumes, face paint, song sheets and an accordion with some of its keys frozen stiff!

Wassailing Ceremony, Schumacher College, Devon. Jan 2017

The vibe was lively - though surprisingly little cider had been drunk - and everyone got stuck into some customary songs that would have been sung at such events.

Wassailing Ceremony, Schumacher College, Devon. Jan 2017

It was then time to adorn the trees with their rightful names. Here’s the apple I chose, the ‘Crimson Beauty of Bath’!

Wassailing Ceremony, Schumacher College, Devon. Jan 2017

Singing and dancing accompanied whoops and cheers as the steaks were driven into the ground.

Wassailing Ceremony, Schumacher College, Devon. Jan 2017

And it continued on until all the tree had been named and honoured in this razzmatazz manner! For me, however, it was time for me to step out. Mainly, I was struggling with social over-exposure, but I also didn’t feel very connected to the ceremony. Being a traditionally English custom, shouldn’t I be? The etymology of ‘Wassailing’ comes from the Anglo-Saxon greeting ‘be in good health’, also in my blood line. It’s an interesting question to reflect on.

The best conclusion I can draw is that I feel more drawn to more ‘sincere’/ ’reverent’ ceremonies, rather than cider-whooping. But perhaps it goes deeper than this... I am open to other interpretations.

Ancestry Adventures Presentation

The same week, there was an opportunity for students to speak about their current projects. Although having only just arrived (and feeling quite nervous) I felt it a good opportunity to share my experienced from my travels - and took it!

Presentation to Masters Students, Schumacher College, Devon. Jan 2017

Presentation to Masters Students, Schumacher College, Devon. Jan 2017

This was a useful experience to condense all of my learning so far and share it with a group. I had some really positive feedback and got to hear others’ personal stories, which suggested I was expressing a shared longing held by many, even though the cultural diversity varied immensely.

Pilgrimage

Life at Schumacher College was very nourishing for me during my time there. One such thing was the generous helpings of organic, home-cooked, veggie food!

Typical Lunchtime Spread, Schumacher College, Devon. Jan 2017

But of course it was the brain-food I had come for; I was fortunate enough to sneak into a talk held by two long-acquainted Schumacher speakers. Satish Kumar is one of the founding fathers of Schumacher College. He began his life as Jain monk in India and is well known for his 8,000-mile pilgrimage from the burial place of Gandhi, to that of John F Kennedy, in the name of nuclear disarmament. After setting up Schumacher and editing for Resurgence magazine, he did a second pilgrimage to Britain’s holy sites.

His guest for the evening was Rupert Sheldrake, a controversial scientist whose banned TED talk offers strong challenge to many of the scientific ‘laws’ we often take as gospel. He is one of Schumacher’s longest running speakers and has been a quest and spiritual pilgrimage of his own during recent years.

Satish Kumar and Rupert Sheldrake, Schumacher College, Devon. Jan 2017

Their discussion was aptly focussed on ‘pilgrimage’ and consisted of a lively and dynamic discussion.

Their view was that a pilgrimage was a means to learn about yourself and nature - a metaphor - the walk on land representing the walk through life. Through facing challenges it builds trust in oneself and the universe providing what is needed.

They spoke about traditions in this country. Pre-Roman settlers used to walk to sacred sites for ceremonies and rituals. These were often at stone circles; the stones acted like a church spire or mountain - connecting heaven and earth in a lightning storm. Ancient yew groves were also considered sacred places, a sort of ‘natural cathedral’, while labyrinths are thought of as a pilgrimage in miniature, a walking meditation which is both “ultimate and intimate”. When Christianity banished these pagan beliefs, they often built abbeys and churches on top of their sacred sites.

Now, The British Pilgrimage Trust is reviving these ancient routes throughout the UK. This is also becoming more popular in countries like Ireland, Germany, Norway and Spain.

River Dart, near Staverton, Devon. Jan 2017

Reflections

It was a fascinating talk, to which I learned a lot and feel inspired to go walking on my own walking pilgrimage before I leave the UK. Rupert, in particular, expressed a few points from his own journey that resonated with me strongly. He spoke of coming across meditation whilst working in India, but felt the need to trace his own Anglican roots. Upon returning to England, his discoveries gave him this ‘feeling’ of coming home, something that many of my interviewees have already mentioned as an embodied sensation. He said that “I think we all have to look at spiritual ancestry, even if we let it go.”

I took these thoughts to the canvas, and began to explore what this might mean to me. A black background filled my gaze and I felt lost in how to proceed. So I paused on my painting and went out into the woods to light a fire.

Schumacher College, Devon. Jan 2017.

To make my fire, I collected wood en route. I found a spot by the sweat lodge and carefully constructed it. Once lit, I stood back to admire the dazzling flames and noticed, that I had used three different types of wood.

Firstly oak, which I closely associate with the British Isles. I had also included branches from evergreen trees, which connects me to my ancestry roots based in Scandinavia. Finally it was the Redwood, native to the Americas, which completes the puzzle. This fire burned brightly with indications from my ancestors from all around the world. This is what makes me, me.

Schumacher College, Devon. Jan 2017.

I took this back to complete my painting. It symbolises a step on my journey, to which I will continue onwards with. And with that, the adventures continues...

[ancestryadventures]

Devon: Astrology Chart & an Interview with Claire James

After a short pit-stop in Bristol, I pushed southward towards to Schumacher College. On the way, however, I had arranged a day’s work in a local astrologer’s garden. In exchange for my labor, Claire agreed to interpret my astrology chart for me. 

Claire James’ Cottage, Chagford, Devon. Jan 2017

Claire lives in a charming thatched cottage, just outside Chagford, in the North of the Dartmoor National Park.

Chagford on map of UK

History of Astrology

While I do like to give the benefit of the doubt - and astrology has peaked my curiosity - I also have skeptical side; I decided to do some research.

According to the American Federation of Astrologers, this ancient practice was used by the Babylonians for over 2,000 years to predict the weather, seasons and natural events; there was no distinction between astronomy and astrology at the time.

It was introduced to the Greeks around 400BC (becoming as well-regarded as science), taken on by the Romans (where the modern-day zodiac names come from) and then disseminated worldwide by the Arabs.

Icons throughout the centuries, including Plato, Copernicus and Sir Isaac Newton, all supported astrology. Despite its global popularity and long-lasting history, the scientific community says it is based on the placebo effect, and it has no fundamental basis in reality. This is a debate that won’t end anytime soon, so I thought I would see what my own experience was like!

My Wagon accommodation, Chagford, Devon. Jan 2017

My Chart

After a rewarding day fixing up the garden shed and turning compost, the results were in. There were many parts of the chart which fitted accurately with my personality, it suggested:

I am a creative person (no doubt!), who connects with young people and the healing arts (what I have done for the past 10 years), I enjoy being around people and love to travel (well - yup!). It suggested that I would study later in life (I only got to university at 27) and I will have a changeable career. My relationships can often be complicated and confused, and I have a need to work on my boundaries!

Claire James Interview

All pretty accurate and specific stuff, and while there were other parts that didn’t match up quite so well, I wasn’t quite ready to write it off straight away.

To find out more I wanted to interview Claire about her fascinating life journey, having been heavily involved with the womens’ movement, therapeutic practices, and community life.

CLICK HERE TO LISTEN TO THE PODCAST

Claire James in by her wood-burner. Chagford, Devon. Jan 2017.

Reflections

Claire spoke to a couple of key points in this interview. Most profoundly she spoke of being in the ‘magic zone’, where life seems to flow and a trust in something greater carries you through the unknown - even where there is no apparent security or destination. I experience this often I am travelling; it’s when I feel most alive. I hope to harness this trust enough, so that when I go to South America later this year, I can face appropriate risk and stay open for unknown opportunities, and live a full, exciting life!

I also was interested of how she spoke of the Communist party, especially after hearing how Yuval Noah Harari talks about political ideologies in his book, Sapiens:

“If a religion is a system of norms and values that is founded on belief in a super-human order, the Soviet Communism is no less a religion than Islam”

This is not a criticism of Communism; Harari includes other ideologies such as Capitalism and Science within this umbrella, yet it does bring home how powerful these belief systems are. Harari goes on to say how these shared understandings are the unique human trait that has enabled the co-operation of large groups of homo sapiens. It has lead us to become one of the most successful species in the history of the earth.

Finally, Claire, as had Christopher Noble, spoke of a bodily spiritual experience of homecoming.

When seeing the British Isles without any towns or cities, she became aware of how she (and her ancestors) were literally made up of the land. This gives me a whole new perspective on what it means to belong... though I wonder how true it is for most of us to say we are made up of this land?

More provoking material to take with me as I head onto Schumacher College. And so, the adventure continues...

[ancestryadventures]

Sweat Lodge & my Ancient Ancestors: Embercombe, DNA & an Interview with Steve Baker

On my way south through the English midlands, I was invited to stay with Steve Baker, a man I know well for his work leading sweat lodges around the country. I have taken part in and helped run many of these ancient ceremonies in the past; so I wanted to take the opportunity to learn more about their origins and purpose.

Sweat Lodge at Schumacher College, Dartington, Devon. Jan 2017

Definition

A sweat lodge is a dome-shaped hut made from natural materials. The most well-known variations use saplings, stuck into the ground, bent, and tied together; leaving one door for entry and exit (usually facing east or west). The structure is then covered with blankets to create a pitch-black, air-tight environment.

A hole is then dug in the centre of the lodge, and a large fire is built some meters away from the entrance. The stage it set for a ceremony.

Ceremony

For a sweat lodge ceremony, participants follow in the holder of the ceremony (water-pourer) into the lodge in a sun-wise (clockwise) direction, until it is full. After initial instructions are given, the large, red-hot stones from within the fire are carefully brought on pitchforks into the lodge and placed in the central hole.

The door is closed, and the water-pourer douses the rocks in water which creates steam, making an environment like a sauna. The group are then lead in songs, prayer and sharings until the door is opened. This process continues for a number of ‘rounds’, with each one serving a different intention.

The lodge represents a ceremonial ‘womb space’ and when they leave they are ‘reborn’ into the next stage of their life.

History of the Sweat Lodge

The sweat lodge is perhaps most well known from the Plains Indians of North America. However aside from the other Native Americans who use this ritual, many cultures around the world have used similar concepts, though often with varying materials. Examples include the Scandinavian sauna (made of wood), the Guatemalan and Mexican Temazcal (sometimes made of clay or stone), or the Turkish Bath.

There are also numerous archaeological remains of sweat lodges in the British Isles, in use as late as the 19th century! One example is at Marden Henge, Wiltshire, where a Neolithic (approximately 2,000BC) structure was found. Archeologists found a large fire outside, and inside, a chalk floor (burnt in the middle, but without charcoal) and a ledge around the outside.

Sweat Lodge at Embercombe, Devon. Dec 2016.

My experiences

The first sweat lodge I participated in was in 2012 in the UK. Since then I have participated in many more, both here and in Ecuador. Some have had a profound impact on me; the combination of the physical intensity, emotional energy of the group and the spiritual intent of the event, has been a cocktail for some deep cathartic experiences.

I have also had the privilege to support the holding of sweat lodges, the physical and spiritual responsibility required for this role has been an honour. Most recently, I was fortunate enough to support the Schumacher College ‘Becoming Indigenous’ programme at Embercombe. During this week, Mac (Embercombe’s founder) and I built, prepared and held the fire for a nightly sweat lodge, held by Lakota and Mohawk women for a the participants. This experience was hugely influential - learning how to be ‘in service’ to something much bigger than myself - it required long and late hours, in all weathers, for a reward that was incredibly intangible.

My Ancestry

But could this felt-sense relate to my ancestry? Well, it seems clear that sweat lodges were used in many parts of pre-Roman Europe, which would suggest that, yes, it could well be possible. Furthermore, the sauna may have been passed down from my Scandinavian ancestors. But even more exciting evidence came from my second DNA test with 23 & Me.

While, like Ancestry, 23 & Me gives a recent ancestry breakdown (relatively speaking - the last few thousand years). However, it is also able to trace further back through the maternal and paternal line, using my X and Y chromosome. From this, they can deduce what ‘haplogroup’ you are a part of (groups of people, who are can be geographically and chronologically identified through genetic mutations, unique to any other group).

My mother’s side was fairly predictable:

My maternal 23 & Me global distribution

When I saw my father’s however, this took me by complete surprise!

My paternal 23 & Me global distribution

I blinked for a few seconds when I first saw this map, and hurried to read what it meant.

My haplogroup Q1a3* (Q1a2) mutated around 18,000 years ago in Siberia and the Altai mountains. This was during the middle of the Ice Age, and as these people developed warmer clothing and effective tools, they were able to follow Mammoths and Reindeers deeper into the frozen landscape (watch The Incredible Human Journey to find out more).

Eventually, about 15,000 years ago, some of their descendants reached the Alaska, by crossing the land bridge between Russia and North America due to the low sea levels. This group were one of only two groups to populate the Americas, meaning I share the same male ancestors with nearly all Native people of South America.

This information is huge for me, as it finally offers clues to why I feel so drawn to this part of the world - and its spirituality - even when I have no direct ancestral ties.

Interview with Steve Baker

Steve Baker at his home, Sheffield. Jan 2017.

The next leg of my Ancestral Adventure took me to the home of Steve Baker. Steve is a sweat lodge water-pourer, having learned much from the Deer Tribe of North America. I spent the night at his house in Sheffield, and although he lived in the middle of the city, his secluded back garden left space for a private place to hold his sweat lodges.

Steve Baker’s sweat lodge, Sheffield. Jan 2017.

I took the opportunity to hear about his experiences in this, my third Ancestry Adventure Interview.

CLICK HERE TO LISTEN TO THE PODCAST

Reflections

This interview spoke to me on many levels. In particular, I am interested in the ceremony’s symbology, and how culture and tradition are fluid rather than fixed.

Steve had shared his perspective of the masculine and feminine symbology of the sweat lodge before my time at Embercombe. This allowed me to hold the fire with reverence, and gave me more intention and focus when bringing the rocks from the fire, into the lodge. Having worked a lot with young men, and see the struggles of distorted masculinity objectifying women, this is my attempt to spiritually align with a different world I want to see.

Steve speaks openly of how culture and tradition changes over time. Mac talks of how his discussions with the Embercombe council are trying to create new traditions - informed by ancient wisdom - in line with contemporary needs through the connection with the land. It allows me to not get attached to an unknowable past and gives space for me to create something moving forward into the future.

Conclusion

This has been a rich exploration, combining the experiences of myself and others, pagan traditions and my ancient DNA. It is helping identify how cultures spread and adapt over time, and how for many groups, these ceremonies have helped people heal and connect with nature and archetypes of the masculine and feminine.Much to consider, and I imagine it won’t be the last time sweat lodges are mentioned on these pages. But for now, the adventures continues...

[ancestryadventures]

Christian Roots: Tadcaster (Yorkshire) and an interview with Christopher Noble

From Gateshead, I continued southward, and as the evening drew in I arrived at my destination, Tadcaster, North Yorkshire.

St Mary’s Church, Tadcaster, Yorkshire. Jan 2017.

Tadcaster

Tadcaster on Map of UK

It is probably most famous for the brewing history, John Smith’s being one of the largest in the country. This brewery also boasts the brewing of other well-known brands such as Newcastle Brown Ale, Kronenburg 1664, Heineken, Amstel and Tiger. Not bad for a town that only has 6,000 inhabitants!

John Smith’s Brewery, Tadcaster, Yorkshire. Jan 2017.

But I wasn’t in Tadcaster to try the local beverages (although I did!), I was here because it was the home of the most spiritual ancestor I know, my maternal great-grandfather, Robert J Hall.

Robert Jeffrey Hall

Born in 1891, I do not yet know much about his early life, other than he fought in the first world war, but never spoke about it. He married my great-grandmother Dorothy at 32 years of age, and gave birth to my grandmother Margaret Green a year later.

Dorothy Parker, Margaret Hall (later Green), Robert Hall. c1933

As you can tell by the dog-collar, he was a spiritual man, and was sent a letter by the Arch-Bishop of York (which we still have to this day) to become the vicar at St Mary’s Church in Tadcaster - as long as he didn’t make it “too high church”! This is what I came to find, and I arrived just before nightfall.

St Mary’s Church, Tadcaster, Yorkshire. Jan 2017.

The church itself was built in 15th century, the oldest in the town. Robert gave service there for many years, and lived in a large vicarage where my mum and her brothers used to go on school holidays.

Photo of the Old Vicarage, Tadcaster, Yorkshire.

It took some exploring and a little help from my uncle guidance, but eventually, under the cover of darkness, I found the vicarage. I was welcomed in by the current owner who allowed me to look in. The building has 9 bedrooms, with have since been converted into 3 separate properties - it was a large place for a vicar, his wife and only infrequent visitors to live!

The giant double door at the front has been the same for over 50 years!

Old Vicarage, Tadcaster, Yorkshire. Jan 2017.

It felt like a real achievement to find this location, somewhere that my great-grandfather had lived for many years. Due to his commitment to the church, he is the most devout spiritual man I have uncovered in my family tree. 


His Christian beliefs filtered down to my grandmother, who went to church into her final years. The odd service I went to with my grandmother exposed me to some of this faith, but its slow and somber approach and lecture style arrangement has never nourished me in a spiritual way.


So is it worth me exploring Christianity as my spiritual home?


Christian Migration vs my Ancestral Heritage


Christianity arrived in Britain on the tongue of traders as it migrated through the Roman empire from the middle east. It sat amongst a whole host of Pagan and Roman gods at the time, however it differed as it required followers to abandon all non-Christian religious beliefs.


Emporer Constantine realised that this belief system would do well to unite the Roman Empire and so it was permitted as of 313 AD. But upon the invasion of Angles and Saxons, pagan religions took dominance in Britain again. It wasn’t until 597 AD, when Augustine’s mission reached England, did Christianity become one of the dominant faiths in Britain.

Map of my Ancestry.com DNA estimate

But on returning my Ancestry DNA test, it shows that only about 5% of my DNA comes from Italy, Eastern Europe and the Middle East. My ancestral roots will likely have followed Nordic, Celtic and Germanic pagan religions for much longer, and perhaps only associated with Christianity for the past 1,000 years or so.


Interview with Christopher Noble

Nevertheless, I am still interested in the story of Jesus. Long before it became a means to rule empires and wage violent crusades, there likely was a man in the middle east who was preaching and practicing spiritual truths, I just needed to find out more about him.


I am currently at Schumacher College; a place of pioneering thinkers studying ecology, spirituality, economics and holistic science - a great chance to meet people and get new perspectives. One such man who I spoke to was Christopher Noble, who has been researching the story of Jesus extensively. Consequently I invited him to participate in my second Ancestry Adventures interview.

CLICK HERE TO LISTEN TO THE PODCAST

Christopher Noble. Jan 2017

I resonate with the idea of Jesus as a man who still has wisdom and guidance, and that the telling of his story (without the institutionalised historical baggage) can be of inspiration to me; as someone who is always on the look-out for positive male role models for myself.


I also see how mythology plays a large part in the work I have done. My work with the Mankind Project and Journeyman UK both use the story of Iron John, while (as I mentioned), A Band of Brothers use the Parsifal myth.

I was so inspired by the use of myth, that within my FDa in Creative Arts Therapies, I wrote a story using Joseph Campbell’s Hero’s Journey as part of my Drama and Storytelling module.

How the Prince Found his Voice. Written and performed by Joss Holmes

Reflections

This step on the journey has brought up some conflict; I at once note that my most spiritual ancestor was a Vicar and the story of Jesus appears inspiring to me, while I still resist the institution it upholds. There is more for me to learn about Christianity, but it doesn’t have the same ‘pull’ to me that pagan traditions do.

Christopher retells Rupert Sheldrake’s philosophy of following the Anglican church; “it’s my cultural language for explaining the great mystery.” This does speak to me, and so I intend to continue to delve into what other cultures my ancestry have been a part of - both in a cognitive and an intuitive way...

[ancestryadventures]

Vikings & my Maternal Grandfather: Edinburgh, Gateshead and Lindisfarne (Holy Island)

It is now time to return from the frozen north of Scotland, now traveling down the east coast of Britain.

Angel of the North, Gateshead, Newcastle. Jan 2017

Edinburgh

From Pitlochry I ventured down to Edinburgh and spent a night with my cousin. The Scottish capital is also is the town where my mother went to university. 

Edinburgh on Map of UK

I was only able to spend a night there before heading south. But before departing, my cousin and I went up to Authur’s Seat.

Authur’s Seat, Edinburgh, Scotland. Jan 2017

Created by volcanoes some 350 million years ago, the earliest known settlements in the region date back to 8,500BC. Later, discoveries of Bronze and Iron age remains were found on this very hill, now in the centre of Edinburgh - a truly iconic natural landmark.

How it got its name is still under dispute. It has been claimed to originate from the King Arthur legends (even as the location of Camelot), as well as possibly being a transformation of other names such as Àrd-na-Said (’Height of Arrows’/’Archer’s Seat’) or Àrd-thir Suidhe (place on high ground).

Authur’s Seat, Edinburgh, Scotland. Jan 2017

Lindisfarne (Holy Island)

As I explained in a previous post, my DNA indicates that around 30% of my heritage comes from Scandinavia. This has sparked my interest in the Norman and Viking ways of life. The first place to start, then, is where they made their first big impact on these Isles.

Holy Island, Lindisfarne, Northumbria. Jan 2017

Lindisfarne monastery was built in 635 by the Irish Monk St Aiden, who came from Iona, Scotland’s Christian centre at the time. He was invited by king Oswald to convert Northumbria to Christianity and became Lindisfarne’s first Abbot and Bishop.

Lindisfarne on Map of UK

It was possibly the most sacred Anglo-Saxon Christian site and was wealthy and prosperous. But in 793, Holy Island was invaded by Vikings in one of their earliest raids. It was a brutal affair, as the Nordic warriors slaughtered many on the island and took sacred and valuable items from the monastery. These attacks repeated until finally it was abandoned, leaving it inhabited for 400 years.

The island is accessible by land at low tide. It was an unexpected stop on my trip so I hoped I would be lucky... I was not.

Holy Island, Lindisfarne, Northumbria. Jan 2017

Does this disturbing account of my cultural ancestors really have a reflection on my sense of ‘spiritual home’? On first impressions I do not want any association with them, however I wanted to learn a little more first. Unfortunately, the famous Jorvik Viking Museum in York is currently closed due to flooding, however instead I have been reading the tale of Beowulf.

Source: www.john-howe.com

The poem, of over 3,000 lines long, was actually written in Olde English, but likely passed down orally through generations until finally transcribed. The single manuscript’s exact creation date is unknown, but it is thought to be around 1,000 years old.

In the story, Beowulf is a fearless warrior who is willing to face death, in adventure and honour. It is filled with tension, treasure, and violence, which seems in keeping with the Viking’s reputation!

Despite the bloodshed, it still captures the imagination and elements of the archetypal hero, a metaphor for overcoming one’s own evil in search of victory; I certainly got this sense from reading it. This is substantiated by the numerous adaptations, translations and films in mutiple languages.

Gateshead

But I had to keep pushing on south towards the winter sun, continuing along the coast road. My next stop, Gateshead.

Gateshead on Map of UK

Standing proud against the bright blue sky was Anthony Gormley’s famous sculpture: the Angel of the North.

Angel of the North, Gateshead, Newcastle. Jan 2017

Gateshead, near Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, is the birthplace of my maternal grandfather, Norman Green.

Norman Green.

Born in 1923, Norman spent his youth in the North-East. He was a chemist specialising in metal (what you might call an alchemist of sorts!) and shortly after the war he applied for a job in Sunderland. He was interviewed by Margeret Hall and obviously made a good impression; they married in 1947.

Wedding of Norman and Margaret Green. Oct 1947.

Norman got a job with the large chemical firm Glaxo Smith-Klyne and they moved to Country Durham, where they had their first child, Michael, in Dec 1948. In 1950 he transferred to the newly opened plant in Ulverston, Cumbria. He enjoyed it so much he never wanted to leave.

He was an outdoor type, enjoying the hills and local fishing. He was driven in his work and as a handyman claimed to be ‘a jack of all trades, but master of none’!

He reluctantly accepted early retirement and hoped to enjoy these past-times. But due to his deteriorating health and lack of purpose he once had in his career, Norman lost his lust for life. Eventually, his life-long smoking got the better of him, and he died on the 4th January 1993 of Emphysema. I still remember the call my mum received at the age of 5, when she was given the news her father had passed.

Reflections

There are many angles to which I can look at this journey from, in some ways they are seemly disconnected. But through the continuing exploration, I hope to find some threads that may weave through to create patterns and narratives that appear true in my family tree, my DNA and my own way of living. There is certainly a part of my that resonates with the adventure/traveler aspect of the Vikings, and my grandfather’s alchemical work can feel a like the facilitation work I do. Perhaps these are valid connections, perhaps not. But I hope to find out, as the Adventure continues...

[ancestryadventures]

Encountering, Connecting and Supporting Indigenous Groups: An Interview with David Watters

Apologies for the radio silence - my charger got left behind and my current schedule at Schumacher College is both inspirational at time-consuming! So let’s get back on the podcast wagon!

I have been hosted by fascinating people along my adventure, many of whom are on a similar inward and outward journies to myself. Their experiences are an integral part of my learning, and I wanted to share their perspectives with you.

David, Iona and Monty, Loch Tay, Perthshire. Jan 2017

David Watters Interview

David is a friend I met at Embercombe in the autumn, and after connecting, I took him up on his invitation to visit him in Pitlochry, Scotland.

He has worked for over 20 years to support indigenous people all over the world - a journey that has also lead him to get to know some of the Lakota people of North America. I took the opportunity to interview David about his experiences, to see how it might inform my learning.

CLICK HERE TO LISTEN TO THE PODCAST

Reflections

I liked the combination of the creation stories with basket weaving. The bringing together of craft and storytelling can play a functional and unifying task at the same time.

I also resonate with David’s desire to lead a more fulfilling life and working in ways that are more ancient than our contemporary culture have offered me some of the most profound lifetime experiences. This is a fundamental reason why I feel drawn to learn more about indigenous groups. However, it feels important not to glamorise these cultures and to go in both open and retain independent thinking. David warned to approach groups humbly, being prepared to be shocked or rejected. I will bear this in mind as I consider my future journey’s into other cultures in future...

And so, with my journey now taking my south once again, the adventure continues...

[ancestryadventures]

Ancient Structures: Perthshire, Scotland

After my time in Cumbria, I decided to head north, to Scotland!

Craigower Hill, Perthshire. Jan 2017

I did not intend to trace specific ancestral roots on this part of the journey. But nevertheless, the Holmes placename is still prevalent in this area:

I was invited up by a friend to stay at the foot of the Scottish Highlands, it was my first time to the area, and so I was keen to go on the hills. I was impressed by the pride the Scots have in their culture, without being nationalistic.

Black Spout

My first outing took me to a nearby waterfall called ‘Black Spout’ (’spout’ being an alternative Middle English term for waterfall).

Black Spout waterfalls, Perthshire. Jan 2017

This is a well-known site for an important Iron-Age homestead (aged between the 1st and 3rd century AD), first excavated in 2005. Various tools and objects have been found there and it is still under annual exploration.

Location of Pitlochry, Black Spout and Craigower, Perthshire.

Craigower

Most of the place names have a distinct Gaelic feel, very different to English names. My next stop, was to a local hill, called Craigower (’craig’ from Gaelic ‘creag’ or Middle English ‘crag’, meaning a cliff or mountainside).

Craigower Hill, Perthshire. Jan 2017

Craigower Hill, Perthshire. Jan 2017

My main intention was to reach the viewpoint, to get a bearing of my surrounding mountains and perhaps see some of the nearby Lochs. So I was surprised when - walking off the track as I frequently do! - I came across what appeared to be another Iron Age homestead, consisting of nearly half-a-dozen adjoining buildings.

Craigower Hill, Perthshire. Jan 2017

Craigower Hill, Perthshire. Jan 2017

Craigower Hill, Perthshire. Jan 2017

I found some keep-sakes on the floor to contribute to my staff.

After spending some time at this find, I continued up the hill. Half an hour later, I came across a fantastic view; Mountain Schiehallion on the left, Loch Tummel in the middle, and the snow-capped peaks of the highlands in the distance. Landscape to take your breath away.

Craigower Hill, Perthshire. Jan 2017

Croft Moraig

Following my time on the hills, I returned to the valley and the following day I was guided by my host to a couple more sites of importance.

Croft Moraig stone circle, Perthshire. Jan 2017

Croft Moraig (meaning Mary’s Croft/Farm) stone circle was utilised over a 1,000-year period during the Neolithic and early Bronze Age (over 5,000 years ago). It consists of two circles, and the design has been changed over time as a result of the needs of the communities which used it for at the time.

Croft Moraig stone circle information point, Perthshire. Jan 2017

Croft Moraig stone circle, Perthshire. Jan 2017

Crannog at Loch Tay

The final settlement on this stage of the journey took me to Loch Tay (meaning ‘peaceful/still lake’ in Gaelic - and that it was).

Scottish Crannog Centre, Loch Tay, Perthshire. Jan 2017

This wooden structure leaning over the lake is a reconstruction of a traditional Iron Age building called a Crannog. It’s a replica of one of 18 lake-side dwellings found on the bed of the loch, in front of the village on the other side of the river.

Location of the Crannog, Loch Tay, Perthshire.

In the archaeological excavations, they found lots of information on the construction as well as the way of life of the people who lived there. The floor is supported by wooden beams are buried into the ground and covered by fern and bracken to insulate it. The walls and ceiling are made of woven hazel, and oak boards make the gangway to the shore.

Scottish Crannog Centre, Loch Tay, Perthshire. Jan 2017

Many other artefacts were incredibly well preserved at the original site, showing how these farmers ate, hunted and crafted. During the summer, the Scottish Scrannog Centre opens to the public, with an exhibition and live demonstrations - a fascinating insight into how ancient people used to live during this period of history.

Nettlecraft

But I’m afraid I’ve got some bad news... when walking my owner’s dog, I leant my staff up against my car to shut my car door. Upon doing so I heard a crack and saw my staff, split in two, lying on the car-park floor!

Of course, I wasn’t best pleased and spoke to my host about it. He said that nettle is a strong natural material and proceeded to show me a book. It referenced a nettle worker called Birte Ford, who lived only 15 minutes away!

We decided to pay her a visit at her house, and she generously showed us around and explained the nettle-working process, which I thought I would share with you.

1. Take the long stalks of the nettles and remove the leaves. Dry them for a year or two and lie flat and cover with a cloth.

2. Cover the cloth and bash the fibres until broken. Then use cards (wooden paddles with pins in) to strip the stalks...

...until you’re left with these wool-like fibres.

3. These fibres are now ready for spinning, either with a spinning wheel (below) or drop-spindle

4. And violá, you have your nettle thread!

5. These can now be used like wool to create fabrics and threads.

And the remaining pulp can be made into paper for painting

Or even cast into bowls and sprayed to retain their shape.

Odin Stone

I noticed, around Birte’s neck, and on the cover of her book, she had a necklace of a stone with a hole in. She remarked that these were called Odin Stones that she had collected on a visit back to her birth-land of Denmark.  This immediately caught my interest, as Odin is a revered god in Germanic and Viking mythology, part of my ancestral heritage.

These stone holes are made through contact with other rocks and water rushing by, but in pagan traditions, they have been thought to be used for their powers to heal, protect and see fairies.

This chance encounter was a rich and interesting discussion, leading me to glean more evidence into some of my spiritual ancestry, and the skills to be able to spin the wool I got at Greenholme.

This concluded my exploration of Scotland, and so, the adventure continues...

[ancestryadventures]

Stone Circle: Castlerigg, Cumbria

The next step on my journey takes me further north in the Lake District, and further back in time.

Castlerigg Stone Circle, Cumbria. Jan 2017

Stone Circle History

Stone circles exist throughout the world, however, they are best known for their creation in the UK throughout the Neolithic and early Bronze Age (approx 4,500-2,000 BC). This period was the crucial turning point of homo sapiens, when we moved away from a hunter-gatherer lifestyle and adopted agriculture and animal domestication.

In Yuval Noah Harari’s book Sapiens, he argues that the unique capacity of homo sapiens to communicate abstract concepts and build belief systems is what set humans apart from previous human species (such as Neandertals and Homo Erectus), and ultimately lead to their survival and expansion.

Stone circles are an example of this, and over 1,000 of them stand in the British Isles and Brittany today. Common belief is that they were used for ceremony, astrological and possibly negotiation purposes.

Location of Castlerigg Stone Circle, Cumbria

Because of its irregular shape and large size, Castlerigg is considered one of the earlier stone circles created by farming communities who settled in the northern Lake District hills. It contains a square enclosure which archeological studies suggest were done at a later date, suggesting it was used over a long period of time.

Castlerigg Stone Circle, Cumbria. Jan 2017

Castlerigg Stone Circle, Cumbria. Jan 2017

My Ancestors

But is it possible to find out if my ancestors created these timeless structures?

Well until fairly recently it was fairly unlikely. However now, thanks to the invention of widely available DNA tests, it is possible to gather clues as to where one’s family came from, further back that any census record.

DNA Tests

In November, I took two separate DNA tests which give insight into the ethnicity and origin of my ancestors. It works by sending off a saliva sample to a lab, where they compare your DNA to thousands of other samples from around the world, including indigenous groups, to create an informed estimate of your ethnic makeup.

I am quite skeptical, and so decided to take two tests. One with Ancestry and another with 23 and Me. I was excited to receive the results:

DNA Results from Ancestry

DNA Results from 23 and Me

As you can see, my DNA shows that I am almost entirely European, much in the UK, Northwest and Scandinavia. At a glance, however, the percentages don’t seem to match. Upon closer inspection, though, the 23 and Me test groups Anglo-Saxon and Viking descendants in with the British and Irish grouping.

From my limited understanding then, it appears I only have a small percentage of Celtic blood in me - groups which would have used stone circles for ceremony, astrology and trade. Instead, much likely comes from the Anglo and Saxon invasions of the early 5th century when the Romans left Britain, and the Viking and Norman (or ‘North-men’, also Viking descendants) invasions between 793 and 1066 AD.

This is fascinating to me as I can begin to piece together a puzzle of my possible ancestors’ migration from Scandinavia down to England, and eventually into my family tree. And it provokes the questions, what was Viking culture like? What was their mythology and spirituality? Questions as I continue on my journey.

Staff Addition

There was not a lot around the bare landscape to borrow as a keep-sake from the stone circle. Castlerigg become one of the first stone circles to be protected by the National Trust because people would chip off parts of the stones as souvenirs!

In the middle of the circle, however, I did discover this twig. The next addition to the staff, as I walk on my journey towards my ancestors.

The adventure continues...

[ancestryadventures]

Surnames: Greenholme Beck, Cumbria

On the lead up to this trip (and this blog) I had already done a reasonable amount of research to inform my itinerary. I won’t dish it all out now, instead, I'll drip feed it in along the way, to give context to my experiences.

Beacon Tarn, Lake District. Jan 2017

A critical part of ancestry research, is, of course, the family tree. The first ancestors who will appear on there are one’s mother and father.

My Mother’s Side

My mother’s name is Hilary Green, born 1954 and brought up in the historical market town of Ulverston, Cumbria, in the south of the Lake District. It’s also the birthplace of Stanley Laurel (from Laurel and Hardy) and home of the Hoad Monument.

Location of Ulverston, Cumbria

Hoad Monument, Ulverston, Cumbria. Jan 2017

She grew up with her two older brothers, Michael and Robert (Bobby), mother Margaret Green (formerly Margaret Hall), father Norman Green and their dog, Tess.

From left to right: Michael, Margaret, Norman, Tess, Hilary, Bobby. c.1970

My Father’s Side

Brian Holmes and Mary Holmes (formerly Mary Refoy) are my father’s parents. He was born Andrew (Andy) Holmes in London in 1950 and has one older brother - Paul.

From left to right: Andy, likely Hannah (Mary’s mother), Mary, Paul. c.1952

Brian Holmes. Approx 23 yrs old.

Surname Meanings

One of the first steps to identify possible family origins is to trace back the meanings of their surnames. In the British culture, these are usually passed down the paternal line (father to son), which matches the evidence on my family tree.

Some cultures do this differently - in Iceland for example, they continue a system whereby a child will create a new surname, starting with the first name of a parent (typically the father) and ending with either ‘sson’ or ‘sdóttir’ (’son of’/’daughter of’ respectively). For example, for a father who’s first name is Ólafur, his children’s surnames would be Ólafursson and Ólafursdóttir.

By using websites like Ancestry and Surname Database (there are many more), you can get information as to the origins and meanings surnames. These are often connected to place-names where a family may have lived, or professions that they may have been recognised for. There often a variety of possible sources for a surname, so being 100% of its origins may be difficult.

Surname: GREEN

The popular English surname ‘Green’ is often linked to, unsurprisingly, the colour. It also is strongly associated with placename, eg. a family who lived near a village green. Alternatively, it could also be linked to those who played the Green Man in mayday celebrations, which symbolises life, fertility and nature. This name can be of Olde English, Irish Gaelic or German origin.

Surname: HOLMES

This surname likely comes from the Norse-Viking or Olde English word ‘Holm’, referring to a piece of land, small hill or island, usually next to a river or stream. These (and other similarly spelt names) are common placenames around the U.K.

Day Trip: GREENHOLME BECK

In honour of both of my parent’s surnames, I discovered a place called Greenholme Beck, near the small lake called Beacon Tarn (see first picture) near Coniston Water, one of my mum’s favourite spots as a youth. While this has no historical connection with my family, I thought it would be a good place to start. 

Map highlighting Greenholme Beck

I arrived at Greenholme Farm, next to the river (’beck’ originates from Old Norse ‘bekkr’, meaning small river or brook).

Greenholme Farm, Cumbria. Jan 2017

Greenholme Beck, Cumbria. Jan 2017

I then walked up to Beacon Tarn. From the top of the hill I could see the ‘holme’ peaking up on the landscape (see the brown nipple just up and right of the tree in the foreground).

View from Beacon Tarn to Greenholme, Cumbria. Jan 2017

I was guided by three sheep towards the holme’s summit, which was in fact, green! This was a clear indication of how the place got its name.

The holme of Greenholm Beck, Cumbria. Jan 2017

Alternate side of the holme, Greenholme Beck, Cumbria. Jan 2017

So I had taken my family surnames and discovered their placename meanings. I then came across a site which combined these two meanings. While this has no direct relation to my family, it is still an important first step of my learning; a successful first Ancestry Adventure!

Staff

Alongside producing this blog, I want to create something physical that will capture my adventure. The day before I left Bristol I went for a walk with my sister, Tessa, in the Wye Valley (South Wales/Gloucestershire). At the end of our walk we came across and impressive dead tree, and I felt draw to take a fallen branch. I found a beautiful lord-of-the-rings branch buried in the grass, just the right height for Gandalf!

I have taken the stick and am trying to bring out the best of its beauty. I will then add artefacts from each part of my journey as a memory of all the experiences and places I go.

For this part of my journey, the guiding sheep were generous enough to leave a bright white piece of wool for me to take away, my first piece of the puzzle!

That concludes the first part of the journey. Until next time, the adventure continues...

[ancestryadventures]

In the beginning...

It’s New Year’s Day 2017 in Grange-over-Sands, Cumbria. I am at the beginning of a 6-week journey around the UK, in search of evidence of my ancestors.

Grange-over-Sands, Cumbria. Jan 2017

“What’s inspired you to do this?” and “What do you hope to get out of it?” are questions I seem to get asked a lot lately. I have often stumbled for an answer, so I intend to find a way to explain this incessant compulsion to venture through the record books, family photos, my DNA, and the mountains and rivers of this land in search of answers - for myself as much for you!

There are many elements which have inspired me to take this journey: my relationship with my father (especially since his diagnosis with Fronto-Temporal Dementia), my own personal development and spirituality in various cultures and contexts, my interest in what indigenous wisdom has to offer us during a pivotal global time, my own needs for learning and adventure, and to find ‘home‘ - a land and people where I feel a deep sense of love and belonging. Phew, that’s quite a mouthful!

Throughout this blog, I intend to share my findings in various ways, starting with my research into my family tree and DNA - and cross-referencing it with anthropological research - to build a picture of my descendants’ lives, stretching back thousands of years. I then intend to travel to many of these places and creatively express my insights through photography, stories, poetry and artwork. I also intend to interview people on a similar path to help me gain more clues and insights, and share practical tools and resources that may be of use to you.

I have no idea where this journey will take me, but I hope that in joining me, you might glean some insight into how to reclaim some of your own cultural and spiritual heritage. Who knows, you may decide to go on your own ancestral adventure yourself one day.

The adventure begins...