americaninparis

[americaninparis]

The toilet in the hall has been flushing itself every thirty seconds for the last two hours

I mean I guess I should be glad that I have a toilet in my apartment so I don’t have to use that one but I don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone use it. And it’s constantly broken.

Anyways, things are beautiful on the first five floors of this building but on the sixth...it gets loud and cold. So so cold. It snowed the other day! Ahhh!!! Of course, I knew my windows were drafty before but lord of lords I have been freezing my butt off.

This has been a very whiny blog post. On a brighter note: i have a date in ten hours!!! 🙀🙀🙀

[americaninparis]

Un bon Dimanche à tous! Happy Sunday everyone! One can never get tired of Paris…

Photo: Guillaume Dutreix.

[americaninparis]

The Only Cheesecake in Paris Worth Eating

It’s been a million years, but in my defense, it has been a ROUGH million years. But! It is my New Year’s Resolution to write every day, whether that be blogging, poetry, work on the novel I keep telling people I’m going to write, or (and I am only mildly embarrassed about this) fanfiction. 

I’ve done well, so far, although it is a bit shameful that it took me eleven whole days to get around to actually updating my blog. Yikes.

I know you’re all dying to know what I did for Christmas, so I’ll tell you: 

My best friend came to visit! For two whole weeks, I got to spend practically every minute of every day with my favorite person in the world: a girl who goes by many names, but who I call Satsu because I’m cool like that. We did just about everything in Paris, and ate practically every pastry that we came across. I hadn’t gained any weight in Paris prior to her visit...

Ah, well, what’s life if you can’t enjoy a tarte au citron or fifty? It was worth it.

For christmas, I acquired new earrings, a bath bomb, a swimsuit, lavendar soap and lotion, and half of my french classes paid for by mes parents. (Thanks! Lord, I didn’t think I was going to be able to continue.)

“But Anneliese,” you say, “What about this cheesecake that you’ve named this post after? We have to know.”

Well, dear reader, I am happy to report that the cheesecake I am referring to is the very cheesecake I am currently eating. Life is good like that sometimes, isn’t it?

The cheesecake is a lemon cheesecake that is (only occasionally) served at Le Pavilion des Canaux, in the 19th arrondissement. Le Pavilion has become one of my favorite places not only in Paris, but in the world in this last week. I was searching good places to write and read in Paris, and I found this article, which was absolutely perfect for what I was searching! There are some good spots on that list, but as soon as I saw Nelly Alard’s description of a place where I could not only get coffee, but could also sit in a bathtub, well...I was intrigued. 

It is quite a schlep out here, what with it being on the outer edges of Paris, and me living in the center of the city, but lord is it worth it. The coffee shop looks, for all intents and purposes, like you’re in someone’s house (save for the coffee bar,) and upstairs, you can find a living room, a bedroom, an attic, a sitting room, and a bathroom. 

Yes, a bathroom. A bathroom which has no toilet, but it does have a bathtub you can sit in (provided you remove your shoes first.) I haven’t had the chance to actually sit in the tub yet, as it is predictably popular, but I still find it endlessly charming. 

There is something absolutely wonderful about not being home, but still being able to curl up in a bed (atop the covers) and read, write, and anything else your heart desires. Nearly every patron at the establishment is working on some kind of writing or reading project, which makes me feel right at home. 

In short, I’m in love. Absolutely, irrevocably in love. 

And I haven’t even mentioned the cheesecake! It is nearly impossible to find cheesecake worth eating in Paris, and I had all but resigned myself to the fate of having to make my own if I wanted some...until today. I decided to try one last time and take the risk of a slice of cheesecake.

A risk well worth it. It is not exactly like an American cheesecake, but lord above is it delicious. Fluffy but rich, sweet and just a touch tart...I could probably eat an entire cake in one sitting if allowed. 

Le Pavilion Des Canaux is nothing short of a godsend during a time when I feel like I am constantly questioning what it is that I’m doing in Paris, and in life in general. It’s not a fix-all, but there is something to be said for a quiet but lively place well removed from where I normally frequent. 

[americaninparis]

How to be French // 

[americaninparis]

I know.

I know! It’s been....over a month. Whoops. 

In my defense...my laptop was broken for like three weeks. But also I’ve just been incredibly stressed this past little while. (Will I ever go a blog post without mentioning how stressed I am? Probably not.)

So let’s recap my last month:

Halloween: I went to Parc Asterix with my youngest, which was super fun, except for the hour in which I lost my wallet and cried in front of her. Got the wallet back, but not the cash that was in there.... :(

In November, I’ve had the joy of discovering the many (MANY) lgbt bars in Paris with my friends. It’s been amazing to discover that community and really be able to make some connections with people who share that in common with me. (Also dating! Wow, imagine me, actually going on a date with a girl at some point in my pathetic life...)

I’ve also gotten to wander around my neighborhood a lot, as I walk to and from French class three times a week, and I’ve been trying to find new paths. I still hold the though that residential Paris is so much more amazing than Touristy Paris, because the food is so much better and the people are nicer. 

November, really, has been a month of homesickness for me, though. On Thanksgiving I think I cried for two hours straight. It’s really easy to miss America, particularly the midwest. Everything there seems so homey when I think about it from across the ocean. I miss American food! If anyone knows where I can get good fried chicken in Paris...let me know. I am DESPERATE. 

That post on how to become an au pair is still coming...eventually....gosh.....

[americaninparis]

A quick update on my life in Paris: I’m not in Paris!

That’s right, y’all, I’m actually doing the thing that most au pairs say they’re going to do: travelling! I have the week off, so I’m spending it in the UK, and am currently on my way to Bath as I write this.

England is beautiful, but even better than its natural beauty and charm, everyone here speaks English! It feels better than I thought it would. I love France absolutely, but it’s so so sO nice to be in a place where I can just talk to people without any language barriers.

My french is rapidly improving, though, so that’s good. Hopefully eventually I’ll feel just as comfortable speaking in Paris as I do in London.

Speaking of Paris versus London...oh my lord, could any two cities BE anymore different? I arrived in London at 4:30 in the morning on Tuesday and was immediately struck by how much wider the streets are, and how much more clean, not to mention the architecture. It took me all of three seconds to fall in love in my sleep deprived state.

Yesterday I went to Warwick castle and did their dungeon tour, and immediately remembered why I don’t do haunted houses. I was shaking in my boots the whole time. Literally. Shaking. In. My. Boots. Lord, but I was freaking out.

Barring that, though, it was absolutely wonderful! I got to learn a bit about the history of England, which is so much more expansive than (Eurocentric) American history, it was dizzying. Warwick castle is just over 1100 years old! I don’t think the original builders intended to be used to scare tourists out of their wits... either way it was fun.

Well, that’s just about all for this week! I’m drafting a post on the mechanics of becoming an au pair, so look out for that in the near future!

[americaninparis]

Homemade Apple Fritters

[americaninparis]

In lieu of a blog post, tonight I would like to lead you all in an exercise in imagination

Imagine me screaming for ten minutes straight. That’s it. Just ten minutes of me screaming. 

[americaninparis]

maybe this is a dumb question but what do you do at the french consulate? and do you have to go to the actual building for your appointment? the nearest one to me is five hours away

Not a dumb question, the whole process is super confusing. 

At the french consulate, you’ll essentially turn in all of your paperwork, pay for your visa, and they take your thumbprints. It feels super pointless but it’s necessary, apparently (bureaucracy yay!)

I had to go to it physically, so I’m assuming it’ll be the same for you. 

[americaninparis]

sometimes u just gotta say “okey dokey” and just like.. rely on urself.. take things as impersonally as u can.. love and let go.. move on.. try and find all the good things, soak those in. and that’s all u can do! and sometimes, that’s enough

[americaninparis]

Moving Abroad is F****ing Hard

Now I know I doubted it in a previous post, but it’s official, kids: moving abroad is not easy in the slightest. Not only is it expensive, but emotionally, it can take a toll on you, especially when you don’t speak the language.

Now, anyone who knows me knows that I am a person who cries a lot. It’s just who I am. These last few weeks though, have been a veritable rollercoaster of emotion because every hard day I have at work is heightened by the fact that my support systems are an ocean away. It’s hard to make friends abroad, and calling someone you’ve know for two weeks to cry?

Not something a normal person does.

So yeah, it’s been hard. And there have been several times where I think it would be easier to just up and quit, to pull the emergency escape hatch and go back home.

But then I sleep. And morning comes. My mother always told me that things look better after a night of sleep and I couldn’t agree more with her, because every day I wake up and I get to see these kids who I truly love. They’re difficult (they’re teenagers), but they’re sweet and smart and I care about them. They’re what makes this job so awesome. And then in the afternoons I get to spend my time exploring the nooks and crannies of a city that very few people really get to know.

Despite all of the setbacks and emotional exhaustion, it’s a one of a kind experience, and the sun does always come out tomorrow.

[americaninparis]

My Apartment Building is Haunted (Paris in the Fall)

Have you ever forgotten that you have a blog for an entire week? Yeah…me too. In my defense, the kids started school this week, so I’ve been working weird early hours and taking lots of naps. I know, I know, naps should not be greater than everything else on my to do list…but I am Anneliese, and Anneliese likes naps.

So I feel like in this article I should talk about Paris in autumn. Early autumn, that is, since it’s only just the beginning of September. We’ll get to my haunted apartment building in a minute.

Paris in the early autumn is a dream for me. Anyone who knows me knows that I love sweaters and hats. The best weather for those wardrobe choices is, of course, cloudy and chilly weather. It has been cloudy and chilly for the last week and I LOVE IT. Also rainy, and I keep forgetting to buy an umbrella…

Paris is, in essence, a walking city. It’s big, but there’s so much to see that you can miss when you’re taking buses and trains everywhere around town. Now, that’s no knock to public transportation. I’m a big fan of it and I use it all the time while I’m here, but when you’re within three-four metro stops of something, walking really is the way to go if you’re not in a hurry. Paris is so beautiful, with the architecture being so distinctive and every street has its own bakery, flower shop, creperie (or four), etc. The best way to experience Paris is by walking from place to place! Besides, you can avoid at least 40% of the stairs in paris by not taking the metro.

My mother calls it the city of stairs for a reason, folks. (Good news: I’m getting used to the six flights of stairs up to my apartment! Related: my hips look fantastic right now)

Today I walked from my apartment near Le Jardin du Luxembourg all the way to Saint-Germain-des-Pres. It was gorgeous, and even though I was sure it was going to rain, it didn’t! Also I got some pots at Monoprix for ten euros for the set. So, basically, a perfect day.

Now I mentioned the wind before, and that really does play a factor into living in Paris in the fall, even indoors. Actually, especially indoors. I mentioned in my previous post that most of Paris does not have air conditioning. Someone told me that this is because everyone in Paris goes on vacation in the summer. Fair, I guess.

Because there is no air conditioning in Paris, people often leave their windows open, including me, even when it’s not hot out, just to get some air circulation in the room. Doors in buildings also tend to fit fairly loosely in their frames.

The result? Doors opening and slamming shut seemingly at random, or rattling when they’re closed tightly. This is something that I’ve gotten fairly used to, but the other night I woke up at two in the morning to my door rattling like someone was shaking the doorknob and trying to get in. My sleep addled brain translated this as knocking. I peeked through the peephole. No one. I opened the door. There was no one there.

I was half asleep but suddenly feeling more awake, and I could hear the door to the public restroom at the end of the hallway opening and slamming shut (which it is doing right this minute, isn’t that lovely?)

So, obviously, I thought my apartment building was haunted. It took me a full half hour to realize what was happening, after which I felt stupid and went back to bed. I’m realizing now that this story isn’t super interesting and maybe I’m just throwing it in for the catchy title…whoops.

Now, it’s an older building, so I’m not entirely certain that it’s NOT haunted, but I think we can safely say for now that I’m at least not in any danger of being attacked by restless spirits. They probably don’t want to climb all the stairs, to be honest, and are sticking to the luxury apartments on lower floors.

Well, either that, or the ghost just constantly needs to pee…

[americaninparis]

Saint Michel and The famous Shakespeare and Co bookshop!

[americaninparis]

Bienvenue!

It’s been a week since I arrived in Paris and oh my goodness, every part of my body hurts! That’s the thing they don’t tell you about Europe, everything is stairs and no air conditioning. As a fat American who is used to being cold all the time, it has been quite the culture shock.

Besides all of the stairs and the fact that I’m sweating an inch off of my waist a day, Paris is amazing. I had an image of Paris in my head, and it has been completely blown out of the water. Copenhagen will probably always be my number one, but I really do understand why they call it the City of Lights, because every night I get to watch the Eiffel Tower glitter out of my window every hour on the hour. It’s breathtaking.

Some highlights of this past week:

Montmartre: My sister Sarah cannot say this word, and I find it genuinely hilarious, but even without that, it is a truly beautiful place, and the part of Paris that I think everyone can picture falling in love with. Walking through those streets and up those hills, I could practically feel the artists that had spent their days there, painting and creating and making the world around them beautiful.

Saint Michel: I fell in love with this little corner of the world. Right across the river from the notre dame, it is absolutely charming and while the fountain of Saint Michel is gorgeous beyond words, I also had the pleasure of seeing some of the best street performers I ever have in my life. And I held true to my tip for all tourists: if you’re going to take pictures/video of a street performer, throw a few coins in their hat. That’s their livelihood!

Champs-Élysées: Sitting at the top of this historic shopping street is the Arc de Triomphe, which on its own is completely gorgeous and stunning beyond words, but the street attached to it adds a different side of Paris that is equally as stunning. The luxury on that street is absolutely STUNNING, and I loved taking in every bit of it, from Gucci putting their clothes in the window, to a truly stunningly lavish Abercrombie and Fitch, I loved walking up and down that street for the hour that I had. I’ll definitely have to go back there when I have my wallet back….

And Finally,

The Eiffel Tower. My best friend here in Paris, I see that lovely icon of the city every day and night before I go to bed and every morning when I wake up, and it’s absolutely stunning, but up close? Oh. My. Goodness.

Stunning. Absolutely stunning.

There are no words for how in love with this city I am. I’ve been warned that culture shock will dull that luster at some point but for right now? I am loving it.

Next week I’ll update you on my exciting job, as I’m currently at the start of my first week!

[americaninparis]

Cheers!

[americaninparis]

Today’s adventures! Notre Dame and Montmartre. I need to buy sunscreen....

[americaninparis]

The view out of my apartment window. The church is Notre Dame Des Champs and beyond that? Oh yeah, just the Eiffel Tower, no big deal.