Portugal, Italy, France, England, Netherlands, and a whole lot of Spain 🥂
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A little taste of Segovia. As many of you know, though I cannot run for more than 100 yards without faking an injury, I am an avid walker. In the 3.5 months and 3 seasons that I have experienced here in Segovia, I have divined my own little walking path through and around the city. The other day I brought my camera along in order to capture some of the magic. Above you can see: A shot up my street called “Travesía de los Escuderos” (The crossing of the Squires). This street is dotted with shops and bars, and after 8pm there are always at least 20 people lingering on the stone avenue smoking or drinking and generally raising some cain (Which, incidentally, I can hear from my window). A photo of the beautiful little aqueduct molding on the street lamps. Sometimes I forget this place is a UNESCO World Heritage City, then details like this remind me. A photo of the castle wall that surrounds the inhabited portion of Segovia. On my walk, I wind down around the outskirts of the city into the surrounding “forest” area, and the majority of the descent is along this stone fortress. Fun fact: the “Alcázar” castle of Segovia was Walt Disney’s inspiraron for the Cinderella Castle. Another fun fact? The kids I teach English to have taught me that Cinderella in Spanish is “Cenicienta” - The cinder princess. A picture of the walking bridge I cross over a pretty little stream. People latch locks onto the iron bars that are etched with dates and couples names. I’ve realized I identify as a Segovian more than a visitor when I see things like this. Tourists are visiting MY home, not the other way around. It also helps that I get asked for directions pretty regularly. A storybook photo of the leaf covered path along the stream. The last bit of “developed” Segovia, a stone pathway made slippery by roughly ten billion fallen leaves. And finally, a picture I took just yesterday on the city-portion of my walk. It snowed in Segovia and it was all I could do not to listen to the Michael Bublé Christmas soundtrack for 24 hours straight. With less than a week left, I’m busy cooking with Nati in order to learn some recipes I can bring home to my family, busy trying to figure out how many souvenirs I can pack into my 20-kg limit suitcase, and busy trying to utilize my Spanish as much as possible before I have to say goodbye...but I thought I would make some time to share the beauty. Hasta Pronto - see you soon!
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I hesitate to say that any of my adventures over here in Europe are my “favorite.” Each has been full and exciting in its own unique way. But if you were to press me, Amsterdam would come out on top (if only slightly). I have only glowing memories of this incredible trip, starting from before my flight even touched down. Proudly serving me free Heineken on the flight, the Holland-based flight attendant raved about the brewery’s Dutch roots. Buzzed and excited, I met my friend Katherine in the airport, and after stocking up on stroopwafels, we boarded an Uber to our AirBnB. Our hosts, Bart & Gwen, were incredible, and their patio rooftop gave us some magical views over the countryside before a cozy sleep. We headed into the city center the next day and began with a tour of the Heineken Factory. Fun and interactive, we learned about the history of the beer, learned how to “properly” drink it (big gulps), and practiced pouring. Thanks to my practice with an actual beer tap that we have at my Dad’s house, I won the pouring competition. We then took the afternoon to explore the streets and canals of Amsterdam, stopping only to drop some serious €€ on fancy stroopwafels and hot “stache” sandwiches. We also dipped into a underground coffeeshop for an hour or so (if you know, you know). That night, upon a recommendation from my well-traveled boyfriend, we went to a super-cool bar hidden inside an old windmill called “Browerij ‘t IJ.” We sipped the house special and split a little sausage out on the heated patio. We ended our night at a fantastic and bustling outdoor restaurant called “The Beer Garden” where we met some dutch locals who recommended another bar for later in the evening. The next day was colder and brighter, and we planned out a day from our train into the city. Filled with a yummy brunch from my new favorite restaurant, toastable, we headed towards a bike shop. Our original plan was promptly upended when, upon renting some street bikes, the vendor whipped out a map and pointed us to all the locations we simply HAD to visit. We hopped on our bikes and zoomed. Never have I had more fun biking than I did on the streets of Amsterdam. First, we went to the Rijksmueseum for photos outside the “i am amsterdam” statue (pictures above). Then, we headed over to VondelPark and meandered among the many picturesque lakes and pedestrians. Having worked up some thirst on our bikes, we biked through the heartbreakingly photogenic Jacobsen neighborhood toward “Foodhallen,” an epic collection of food stalls and vendors housed in a hip old warehouse. I got a beer (are you sensing a pattern?) and we agreed to return for dinner. We then gave back our bikes and spent the afternoon shopping in “Albert Cuyp” outdoor market where we filled up on Amsterdam original - you guessed it - stroopwafels. That evening brought a scrumptious dinner at Foodhallen, a classically perfect night at “the Bulldog,” a famous coffeeshop/Bar, then a quick zip through the red light district. The next morning marked our last day, but we refused to waste our final morning. We devoured massive Dutch pancakes for breakfast, and then split up so Katherine could see the Van Gogh Museum while I read + drank coffee in the chilly VondelPark. We walked back to the train station together and parted with hugs and declarations of thanks for a splendid weekend. On the train back to Almere, I looked wistfully out the window at Amsterdam in the distance, silently thanking my family and friends for allowing me this perfect, perfect, perfect weekend in Holland. 🇳🇱
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Remember the children's rhyme, "I see London, I see France...." Well that was my vacation, except in reverse. We left Paris and landed in London early on a Wednesday, giving us ample time to arrive at our hostel in Kensington. We were told by a fellow traveler from Britain that Kensington was quite a *posh* area of London, and, once we had converted our Euros to Pounds, set out to confirm his story. That first day was a tourist's dream. Bundled in scarves, we walked through Astor Hyde Park along a lake positively overflowing with fowl. I'm serious when I say I have never seen as many pelicans, swans, and variegated geese as I did that first day in London. Even better than the ducks, however, were the wonderfully stereotypical old Englishmen in tweed coats tossing crumbs at them. We then wandered through the city blocks, passed by countless red double-decker busses that I had only ever seen in British film. That afternoon we were able to see both Buckingham Palace and the stoic guards out front. Disappointed that we couldn't try to razz them up close, we settled for photos. That night, we ate a classic British meal of fish & chips (crisps?) and capped off the evening with sunlit views of Big Ben and Westminster Abbey. The next morning was colder and grayer; exactly the weather the Brits are famous for. We passed the morning at the British Museum and gazed upon the Rosetta Stone, the mummy of Cleopatra, and a sizeable, if controversial, collection of statues from the Greek Parthenon. Then we ventured into the rain to take photos and visit the shops at Kings Cross Station, the legendary departure place of the Hogwarts Express from Platform 9 ¾ (more on that later). Then, the British Library, where I was amazed to see an incredible collection of treasures: The historic Magna Carta, original Leonardo Da Vinci sketchbooks, and, my favorite, the napkins and postcards on which The Beatles wrote the first drafts of two famous songs (Michelle & Ticket to Ride). That evening I indulged my passion for true crime and persuaded Ariana to accompany me on a guided "Jack the Ripper" tour of London at night, a creepy and fantastic experience that I would recommend to any history or crime buff. I also found time that evening to meet up with a friend from high school who is living in London at a hip downtown bar for drinks. The next day we went to Harry Potter studios at Leavesden, a nearly religious experience for yours truly, for which I will write a separate post. The tour took all day, so I will skip ahead to the arrival of my Mom and Mitchell! It was so incredible to see my family and experience a new part of the world together. I dined very well with them that first night, and got to watch my mom get emotional when I reminded her that I can drink wine in Europe...and now in America too! The next morning I joined them for a jacuzzi and hearty breakfast, and we set off for a very full day! We skipped the line and journeyed to the top of the London Eye Ferris Wheel after Mitchell upgraded our tickets to fast-passes. The sprawling city was even more beautiful from the sky, and I'll never forget that ½ hour on London's most iconic piece of skyline. We then toured the Winston Churchill War rooms, an amazing preservation of the tunnel system where the British military operated during WWII. I've said it before and I'll say it again: I LOVE history, and touring modern military headquarters was pretty much as good as it gets. That afternoon we indulged in a rich and sumptuous "High Tea" at Kensington Palace, wherein none of us could finish our towers of tea cakes, and carried them home for later, less elegant snacking. This was one of many perfect experiences that my family treated me to while in London that I never would have been able to afford on a student budget otherwise, and I am so grateful. That night, per recommendation from my British Nana, we all went for a drink at Gordon's Wine Bar. Essentially a spunky outdoor pavilion filled with young British folks and, you guessed it, wine, we sipped and samples cheese plates while wrapped up in our coats. We bid a bittersweet farewell the next day after spending a lovely morning shopping on Portobello Road in Notting Hill. I knew when I arrived to the airport that London had carved out a special place in my heart. The combination of the Harry Potter-isms, the city itself, and my loving family made it all the more perfect. I will be back before you know it.
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I kicked off my ten-day vacation by spending five beautiful, cozy, rainy October days in Paris. With almost a week of Parisian streets and sights ahead of me, I decided to stay in an AirBnb rather than a youth hostel, and consequently was situated right along the Champs d'Elysses in a teensy studio apartment.
We hit the ground running on day one with a tour of the Catacombs beneath the streets of Paris. Equal parts creepy and fascinating, we slipped among towers of skulls and femur bones a hundred feet beneath the streets, reading about the epidemics that led to the millions of Parisian skeletons in need of new resting places. We emerged, sober-faced, and immediately stopped at the nearest crêperie for sustenance.
That evening I took advantage of the three hour window every week where the Louvre offers free admission to under-26’s. After the obligatory picture outside I.M. Pei’s glass pyramid, I switched on my audio guide and wandered the Denon wing of the Louvre. I’m no art historian, nor am I particularly well-versed in artistic nuances, but that didn’t stop me from crying real tears upon witnessing the classics I’ve read about so many times. Yes, the Mona Lisa is small, but she’s also so rich in history, and although the Winged Victory has neither arms nor a head, I still found the statue absolutely entrancing. After a long walk back home down the Champs d'Elysses past the Arc du Triomphe, I slept.
The next couple of days were dedicated to exploring the city. I ate many a macaron, stopping at Laduree, Paris’s original macaron confectioner, for champagne, ginger-rose, and chocolate flavored tarts. I shopped in and out of countless boutiques, perfecting my “bounjour” and “merci” with the elegant shopkeepers. I crossed massive stone bridges, tripped on cobblestoned sidewalks, and followed the hand painted street signs that led from one metro stop to the next.
I spent TWO storybook afternoons in cafes that both involved hot drinks and a good book. The first, a tea house, had a wall of herb jars where I sniffed and selected my tea preferences before sinking into a massive armchair with a full teapot and reading to the sound of rain pattering on the roof. The second was called “Les Deux Magots,” and I visited at the recommendation of a sorority sister. The 8€ “chocolat chaud” was daunting, but I ended up tucked inside a heated greenhouse, sipping the thick “drinking chocolate” for hours, once again, reading. I couldn’t have imagined more perfect days.
Towards the middle of the trip, we visited a historic bookstore called “Shakespeare and Co.” on our way to Notre Dame, and I bought a commemorate novel. Then, filled with French Onion soup and armed with my umbrella, I climbed to the top of the wind-whipped castle and got to look out over misty Paris. Seeing the Eiffel Tower from the top of Notre Dame Cathedral was something I’ll never forget. The interior of the church was very moving, and it was impossible not to feel spiritual as I listened to Sunday mass in French and lit candles for my family.
As for the Eiffel Tower itself, we didn’t climb it, but we sure spent an evening sitting in its shadow. I didn’t know that the tower was lit at night, and the first time it began to sparkle I was absolutely floored, and I stopped to watch the lights for five whole minutes. I then researched the tower a bit, and it’s history impressed me almost more than it’s structure.
Finally, I spent an entire day, dawn to dusk, at Versailles Palace. It’s indescribable. The palace itself is the absolute richest place I have ever been in my life. Rooms made of pure gold, entirely magenta bedchambers, ballrooms constructed only of gilded mirrors etc. Once I left the palace I was convinced I couldn’t be impressed further, and then the gardens proved me wrong. I spent two hours walking the hedges that opened up into epic fountains every 100 yards. The day I visited the grounds staff happened to be running a few of the fountains, a beautiful sight against a bright autumn sky. I then made the trek down the long, yellow-treed lane to Marie Antoinette’s petit Trianon - her home away from all the craziness (relatable).
One large cup of coffee and one long day later, and my trip to Paris was capped off with a bottle of red wine in my AirBnb. I adored the city, the people, the architecture, and the desserts, and I know that I will go back to walk amongst the fancy Parisians once again someday.
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WHEN IN ROME! This past weekend I was able to celebrate my 21st birthday with a trip to Rome, Italy. Two of my sorority sisters met me at a hostel in Rome for a weekend that I can only describe as transcendent. Exploring the unique combination of art, history, religion, and carbohydrates that Rome has to offer was one of the peak experiences of my life. The three of us — Katherine, Ariana, and I, created our own "Tour - de - Roma," and were able to see almost every single major monument. Ariana and I arrived a day early and spent an afternoon exploring the shopping district ($3,000 sweaters, anyone?) and the Spanish Steps, where I recreated a photo of my mom from 21 years prior. We also visited the Pantheon and the neighboring streets. Finally, I had myself an afternoon iced tea at Babbingtons Tea Rooms and felt very, very European. The next day we started at 7am to get tickets for the Coliseum, Palantine Hill, and the Roman Forum. We clocked ten miles that day, and every single inch was worth it. The Coliseum is rich in history and stories, and I loved meandering through the structure and imagining the hundreds of years of Roman citizens doing the same. My friends allowed me the time to read every single signpost of information, and every time I learned something new, the arena felt even more real. Did you know the Coliseum on average held about 60,000 people and was the inspiration for modern football stadiums? Autzen Stadium in Rome!! The Roman Forum was astonishing, and I had to keep reminding myself that all of the stone splendor was built and rebuilt without electricity. Somehow the magnificence of the ancient veined and scarred marbled structures becomes even more so when you remember how much effort it took to construct them. I also visited Via Alessandria, my Italian namesake! (Pictured above) Unfortunately, at this point in my trip I learned a very hard lesson. Smiling Italian men that hold the subway door for you aren't being nice to the pretty American tourist. No no, they're preying on your kindness and naivety. I returned home from my second day one wallet lighter, and bid adieu to 60€, my ID, my debit card, and my confidence that I was smarter than the pickpockets. The next day we tackled the Vatican. I was anxious about prices, as all my money had been stolen, but Papa Francesco must have been smiling down on me, because my wonderful friends lent me what I needed to get in. The Sistine Chapel was beyond stunning, and I capitalized on my Jesuit education to point out to my friends different biblical scenes. We also saw original Roman statues, mummies, and paintings, Most of them older than the United States itself. Finally, St. Peter's Basilica. This past year I spent a term researching the Basilica for a final project, so I figured I would be prepared for the splendor of the church. Needless to say I was wrong. Matthew 16:18 says, "And I tell you that you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church," and this Basilica affirmed that for me. The ceiling, the flagstone, the statues, and the bones of St. Peter entombed in the Basilica reminded me of just how significant Vatican City is to us disciples. We visited the Trevi fountain in the evening, and it was one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen. I tossed in my euros, made my wish, and then sat nearby and just stared, thankful that I got to witness such a treasure by the sunset light. A birthday gift from the city of Rome. Now, I have returned home to Segovia poorer than when I departed, but richer in memories and experiences than I have ever been before. Never again will pizza, pasta, or gelato taste the same :) Grazie, Italia, grazie
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I wish I could take every single person I know through the city of Lisbon, Portugal. It was more beautiful than I expected, the language more intricate, the people kinder, and the buildings grander. I’m so thankful I made the choice to visit this unconventional city.
A few highlights of the photos above:
We went to visit the Torre de Belém, a tower situated literally on the coast of Lisbon designed as a defensive fort during the sixteenth century under King Manuel I of Portugal. Fortified with impressive dungeons, the Belem Tower functioned for years as a prison.
In this neighborhood we also visited the original factory of the “Pasteis Belém,” a delicious custard-like tart pastry covered in powdered sugar and reminiscent of créeme brûlée pie. The factory churns out what I can only imagine to be hundreds of thousands of these pastries a day. They will always taste like Portugal to me.
Speaking of fun things to try, we also had a shot of “Ginja,” a cherry liqueur produced exclusively in Portugal. The sweet woman that served it to us (in chocolate edible cups) taught us “thank you” in Portuguese - Obrigado!
Above you can also see a shot of the marble buildings of the city center. Lisbon is a coastal town, and this city plaza overlooked a sea full of sailboats and fishing boats. I wish I had a week to read along the coast and simply watch the ferries travel across the bay.
And finally — the castles. We took a train to the nearby castles in the hills of Sintra. In our limited day, we were only able to tour two of the six, but we chose the best ones. Pena Palace was Candyland, there’s no other way to describe it. Originally a humble monastery, the building fell into disrepair after the earthquake-cum-lightning storm of 1755, and was left in ruins until 1833, when Kind Ferdinand decided to rebuild the incredible site. Completed in the latter half of the 19th century, Pena palace served as the “Summer Home” for Portuguese Royal Family, and I can understand why.
The other castle was distinctly more gothic and filled with slim towers, hidden ponds filled with lush undergrowth, and dark tunnels carved right out of the stone. “Quinta de Regaleira” had had many owners over the years, but has passed from wealthy family to wealthy family.
To descend from these hills that are kilometers high, we took a Tuk-Tuk, a terrifying contraption pictured above and driven by a Portuguese man with little to no regard for safety. Actually quite fun, and only 3€ each.
We also went to a music festival in Portugal called Famous Fest, wherein we were served free drinks and listened to some funky-cool-pop Portuguese bands and danced until later than I care to admit.
The rest of the time was spent lazily exploring the coastal neighborhoods of Portugal. Alfama was a particular favorite, with views of the sea and red roofed homes extending farther than I could see. I’ll post more photos soon, because I love love LOVE everything about this city. Lisbon was everything I hoped for and more.
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Upon the recommendation of a sister, I have just finished what has become one of my top five favorite books of all time. I assume I am not unique in loving this Pulitzer prize winner.
It was incredible to read about the Second World War with a trip to Paris on the horizon, and I’ve realized just how different it is to study history whilst I am literally surrounded by the unique peoples and languages I’ve always encountered from an academic distance. The majority of my past world history lessons have been about Europe, after all.
Possibly the best part of this book was the review on the back cover….a snippet from The Oregonian, of all sources. A little taste of home on the cover of a German/French book in a coffee shop in Spain.
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San Sebastián was possibly the most beautiful city that I have ever had the pleasure of visiting. It felt like the city from "The Little Mermaid" — wrought iron fences, beautiful antique church spires, an ocean inlet with mossy rocks, and a golden bridge spanning across it. We managed a scenic hike up to a statue of Jesus located atop an old war fortress, a couple nights out in Basque bars and discotheques, lots of street and window shopping, and countless scoops of ice cream at a local "heladería" that is, dare I say it, better than Salt and Straw. Also above is a video of the coolest tradition ever, a group dance on the public square after church for all the citizens In Basque Country, where San Sebastián is located, every local speaks Basque. The "country" (technically a region) straddles France and Spain, so every single street sign or price tag or instruction is given in Basque, French, Spanish, and English. So bizzare to order from a menu that has four languages on it. Technically this is called a "diglossia," an English word that indicates two or more languages are spoken with the same degree of presence in a certain area. In Basque Country, you speak Basque at home or will your friends, but speak in Spanish at school or to a waitress. It was funny realizing that there were completely bilingual toddlers walking around. Above you can see the spelling of "Chocolate" in Basque as "Txokolate." It's a crazy language with no discernible patterns or roots. Every time I met someone new in a bar, I would ask them to speak basque, just to hear it. First train ride across Spain: a success. I loved San Sebastián, and I cannot wait for my next mini-vacation. ¡Adiós!
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Pictured above: the struggle of trying to plan vacations in countries with different languages. This is a message from the host of the AirBnB im staying at.
Hi everyone!
I’m almost two weeks into this incredible experience here in Segovia. My Spanish is unrecognizable from the grammar-mistake laden, simple-vocab language I was spouting upon arrival, I’ve eaten more new food than ever before, and I’ve had the incredible experience of seeing my underwear hang on a clothesline over the neighborhood plaza (Nati doesn’t own a dryer).
I’ve also been hard at work planing trips around Europe that I will embark on during my stay. Suffice to say it has been hard; navigating airlines, hostels, trains, and AirBnB hosts who don’t speak English (as pictured above) has taken a toll on me. It’s also tough to spend thousands of my own dollars on trips that are months away. I feel like an adult, and it’s rough.
My friend Ariana has been reminding me every time my Wells Fargo account takes a big hit for airfare or hotels that a flight from PORTLAND to Italy would surely, surely be more expensive. 😊
Here, finally, is where I am going. Any recommendations of sights to see or places to visit are SO welcome! I’m a Europe newbie!
September 15-17 • San Sebastián, Spain
September 28- October 1st • Lisbon, Portugal
October 10 (birthday!) - 15 • Rome, Italy
October 19-25 • Paris, France
October 25-29 • London, England.
November 2-5 • Amsterdam, Holland.
November 10-12 • Andalucía, Spain
A big, massive, incredible shout out to my Mom and Dad for this opportunity. I might be getting myself around Europe, but they got me here. ❤️
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Spent an incredible day in Madrid! The capital of Spain had so much to offer in terms of sightseeing, gorgeous fountains, gondola boats, and, yes, Sangria. Through the course of 12 hours my friends and I managed to explore the city using our recently acquired Spanish skills. So thankful for this opportunity, and proud of my bus-train-metro navigation! First student-orchestrated adventure abroad was a ringing success.
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Hi all! As I conclude my first week in Segovia, I wanted to assuage some fears and answer the question that I know is on all of your minds: What in the world is Ally eating! First let me tell you that the food schedule here is bizarre — muy extraño. I eat breakfast at 9am with Nati before school. Lunch, however, isn't until 2pm. Even worse, Nati starts cooking dinner at 10pm! Most days I'm not finished eating until 11pm, and even then I like to sit and drink tea with her while she takes her medicine. All of this culminates in a very full, very tired Ally falling asleep at about midnight every night. Breakfast is a dream. Every day Nati makes me a grand spread of coffee in a beautiful valise, a little pot of milk for my coffee, a sugar bowl, fruit, two biscuits, toast, and at least 2 kinds of jam, jelly, or butter. No matter how much I eat she always asks "¿Quieres más, mija? ¡Tu no puedes estar llena!" which roughly translates to, "There's no way you're full, my child. Eat more." Above are two lunches I've had. The first is "sopa con carne en hueso y patatas" which is beef-on-the-bone stew with potatoes. This I LOVED even though I didn't eat enough of it to satisfy Nati. The second is "arroz con huevo y salsa de tomate" which is exactly what it looks like - rice, a fried egg, and tomato salsa. This one is bizzarely good - would you ever think to mix those flavors? Between 2-8 when there are no meals, I usually have a cup of decaf coffee in a cafe or vino y tapas (wine and appetizers) with my friends at some open-air bar. There's nothing like watching the sunset with a pretty plate of snacks and a glass of wine for 2€ Something to make you laugh, Nati is as much of a bread fiend as I am. She buys a loaf every morning and we eat it by nighttime. Our mantra is "pásame el pan, por favor" — pass me the bread please. Is anyone surprised? All in all, the Mediterranean diet is treating me well. I'll write again soon! Until then, ¡hasta luego!
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Still getting used to everything that is different here (coffee at night, 1€ beer, stores closed on Sundays, police sirens that sound like music, and the fact that a *green* plus sign at a store means pharmacy ….) But I will never get used to the sunset over the aqueduct.
2,000 years old and it’s more beautiful every time I've seen it.
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More photos to come of this beautiful city! Here was my view from a brief tour of the original Roman Aqueduct. In all honesty, this is the oldest human-created building I have ever seen. I had my first glass of Sangria auténtico today, possibly the most delicious thing I have ever tasted. Somehow afterward I became a much more confident Spanish speaker. How interesting.... Hopefully tonight I will get to explore the city a bit more. Everything stays open till roughly 5am, so I have the time. Spanish coffee is pretty strong, so I definitely have the energy. ¡Hasta luego, familia!
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Here is some MAILING INFO if you'd like to send me love! Read all of it, its complicated.
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German sky, German Airport: lots of pretty things to look at everywhere!! And I got my first passport stamp. Next on the agenda: should I buy a beer?
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A perfect overseas gift from a perfect long distance best friend. Thank you Sadie Kavalier! For those who don't know...this is a mini Polaroid camera! 20 shots included, but I'll buy more ❤️
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