verticaladventures-blog

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Week 24

Last week was a low point for me in terms of the climbing game. No that's no a joke about not being able to climb up very high. I just had a really crappy session. Definitely in part because I was on my own and it's just not the same without Molly there to chat to but also becuase some people are mean.

There were only 2 auto-belay walls open and they were all really hard climbs only 2 routes below a 6b and a 6b is projecting pretty hard for me at the moment. The annoying thing was that I couldn't even get all the way to the top of the 6a.

I just kept reaching my limit about 3/4ths of the way up or slipping and falling on an early crimp section. It was frustrating. I went over to the sofa and said to the guy who was sitting there waiting for his turn that I found that route pretty difficult and he totally scoffed at me. Then, to prove that he was so much better than me he climbed that route (I knew he was working on a different one before) then looked right at me and shrugged when he got down.

There was another guy sitting next to me and I turnes to him and said, "well I thought it was pretty tough," and he said "that's because your technique is bad,"

Ouch.

He did at least have the kindness to give me some pointers and watch me during my next (failed) attempt to see if I was following the advice properly.

Apparently I'm wasting a lot of energy by having my arms bent while I move my feet.

He was definitely right, I do, do that. But after being called out it was really hard to have a good session and I just felt like everyone was judging me.

As a result, this week started off a bit shaky and for the first few walls I got really frustrated trying to keep my arms straight all the time. I was struggling to get up 5s. That's how bad it was, I was feeling like I had to go back to square one to unlearn my bad habits.

We had a few like this, and even though it was nice to have my climbing partner back, I was feeling pretty crappy about my climbing. And watching her send everything while I was struggling with things that I know I can climb (relying on bad technique) was no fun. No fun at all.

I think what I realised is that I was going a bit over the top with the straight arms thing. I guess it's fine to bend them sometimes, when you need to, just not all the time. Once I started to think of it that way - locking out my arms only when there was no actual need for them to be bent - it started to feel more natural and by the end of the session I was feeling better.

It's going to be a long way to recovery but hopefully I'll be a better climber with improved stamina at the end of it all.

No record breakers for me this week, as you might have guessed. However, Molly had another go at her nemesis the 'horrible orange' and totally topped it. Then went on to do the 6a in green next to it. Nemesis down!

Got to love that feeling

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Check out my gnarly bike crash... don’t worry only bruises!

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Week 23

Fuck you Tumblr! You did it again, types out another world topping post and then it disappears when I post it! Fortunately I caught it in action this time to I can remember what I said and type it out again. Though I have to say probably some of the magic is lost now.

This week was such a slog, we were both tired and I could feel that my muscles weren't fresh after the first route. Though that may be because I was hit by a car on Friday. Not that I'm making excuses but...what's yours Molly?!

We started on a pretty tough wall too, no holding back! Just 100% commitment from the beginning. 6a? Check! 6a+? Check! 5+? Obviously check!

The next wall was a bit more eventful though as it was one I don't think we've ever done before with holds on both sides of a corner. Some points you have to hug the wall between your knees for support; luckily my balance has improved a bit since the early days but it was still hard.

The first route we did, I didn't look at the rating beforehand. After descending from the top I guessed that it would be a 5+ but nope. 4+. It was a surprisingly hard one though. The others there were punishing too, big gaps and sometimes tricky traverses around the corner.

We're also thinking of taking the plunge on a lead climbing course which would mean we could try out a new style of climbing and a bunch of new walls. Sometime next month?

Next we went over the the 'natural' effect wall and had out asses handed to us by a beastly 6a that is our new nemisis. And a 6b that isn't worth talking about at this point!

My arms were just too tired by the time I was 3/4ths of the way up and I had to call it quits. Molly made it further though and only had a couple of holds from the top.

Next week we'll be coming back for you!

[verticaladventures-blog]

Week 22

So this weeks blog post disappeared for some reason. I wrote a big exciting one that was a really good read and to be honest it was probably the best post I've ever done but for some reason Tumblr deleted it.

So here's just the highlights:

I beat the green monster wall. Yep the 6a+ that cut my knee all up has been topped. It took a pretty big to get over the overhanging end section but I trusted my fingers. Even though for a second it seemed like they weren't going to hold, I managed to grip long enough to make it to the next hold and then to the top.

What else happened? Probably a bunch of other stuff but I can't remember it now because it was 2 weeks ago. Sorry everyone, blame Tumblr.

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Week 21

Well what a week it has been. Hot hot hot! This is like the 2nd or third week of the heatwave we've been getting here in London and it's certainly having its effects on our climbing.

This week we were joined by everyone from work! Well, not exactly everyone but a few people who were brave enough to rope up and take on a wall or two. Unfortunately, as they were in an organised group with an instructor, and there were only 6 places in the group, we didn't quite get to climb with them... More like near them. From what I saw everyone had a pretty good time and gave it a solid effort, though I suspect that more fun was had at the delicious meal and tiki bar afterwards than on the wall!

Meanwhile, me and Molly got down to some serious climbing and took on a few pretty difficult walls that definitely stretched our ability!

First up a little warm up on a 4+... I know we don't really do 4+ anymore but sometimes you just feel like a gentle start. It's like getting into the bath. You can't just jump in all at once, you have the lower yourself slowly and build up to full submersion.

There was a 5+ and a 6a- on that wall too though so it wasn't long before we had bubbles up to our chins and rubber ducks floating around our heads... so to speak. However, if I'm totally honest that 6a- is a bit of an easy one. I feel like they probably gave it that rating to build confidence for intermediate climbers who are struggling with 6a walls.

The wall it's self, though actually I didn't experience this at all, according to Molly was creaking and wobbling backwards. She came down from the first climb a bit too sheepishly for having only done a 4+.

Next we hit up a slab which is Molly's favourite but I always suffer on. Slabs are often a bit more balance orientated and less about strength. It's one place where my height actually isn't in my favour (which is obviously why she likes them so much).

The 5+ was absolutely brutal! These slopey white holds that were just big and round with nothing really to get a hand gripped around. Also some of the gaps were really big. One section, about half way up forced you to stretch out completely and push yourself up with only your extended leg. If the hand holds has been a bit more grippy, I could have used my arms to assist but they've made it deliberately so you can't do that! The whole wall seemed to be like that though and we both struggled up through endless awkward body position moves to the finish. Probably one of the hardest climbs I have ever done but it felt damn good to have topped it.

Then the 6b- next to it was flipping easy in comparison! I think we fell victim to the confidence boost rating system again! But still! 6b-, that's an achievement!

Finally we hit our last wall, didn't do too many this week becuase the heat is really stifling and it's easy to feel exhausted. Also I didn't want to get left behind by the work group who were going for dinner at 7!

This last wall though.... I think we have found a new nemesis. Neither of us got past 3 meters and then, in a final twist of fate: while attempting an admittedly ambitious move that involved standing almost parallel with the ground with my feet off to the side, I fell and scuffed my knee. For the first time in my climbing career a wall had drawn blood. 6a+ nemesis!!

I'm calling it the gruesome green after its emerald holds. Next week we will be back for you, and you will be climbed!

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Week 20

Well what more is there to say about climbing now that I have been crowned the winner king forever? I guess there's some pleasure to be had in repeatedly tooting my own horn though. So with that in mind lets talk about this week's climbing session!

We've actually taken a couple of weeks off due to family commitments and busy schedules so this week there was some genuine worry that those tiny muscles you build up in your hands and fingers might have lost some strength. Twinned with that was the extra fear you sometimes get after a break.

When you go climbing every week the height of the walls becomes something that fades into the background. You don't think about it. You're busy thinking about holds and features and how embarrassing it would be if you lost to a 5ft girl. This week though I felt a bit shaky starting out on the first wall.

We deliberately picked a pretty easy one too: a 4++ which is something I haven't seen before but kind of assume it must sit in that ambiguous space between a 4+ and 5-. Surprisingly difficult and actually I thought that the 5+ we did next (after the initial vertigo had worn off) was more of a challenge so I guess that goes to show the importance of a strong mental game.

It was a feature heavy wall though with a few spots where the gaps between holds meant that you had to rely on the 'natural' bumps and crevices. This always bumps up the difficulty because you have so many options and thinking clearly can be difficult when your hanging by your finger tips at 25ft.

It was nice to be back at westway too. We haven't been there in probably over a month so a lot of the routes have been re-set and our favourite walls are now filled with new challenges.

In particular there was a new nemisis for Molly on the same site as the mint monster from the early days yet f our vertical adventures. A 'horrible orange' which is only a 5 proved too much and yet she managed the 5+ green next door (which I actually found a bit harder) with ease.

For me the hardest climb was that wavy wall that occilates between slab and overhang so that you have to haul yourself over the hump three or four times before the top. Molly seemed to have no problems but I had to do some seriously inventive moves to manage the top hump and very nearly lost my footing!

By the end of the session we were both pretty beat. Taking a week or two off just lets your muscles get a bit too comfortable with not having to drag your body up walls. It's good to feel the burn afterwards again though, just like in those first few weeks where climbing for an hour would mean days of aching. Thankfully though, I'm past that stage by the end of the next day I'll be almost back to baseline.

Doubtless, Molly will want a rematch at some point so stay tuned for more competition between the two of us in the future.

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Week 19

Well, what a long week of anticipation it has been. After a flurry of trash talking hither and thither between Molly and myself, finally we have an answer to the age old question: who is better at climbing? Who will don the crown and become either the King or Queen of climbing?

The answer? Well, I’ll get to that in a minute. Wouldn’t want to spill the beans to early and ruin the fun. This isn’t my sex life. This is climbing and it’s a serious business. 

First let’s go over the rules of the competition:

1. We climb the same walls 

2. Every time you reach the top you earn a point

3. You can have as many attempts as you need

4. Whoever has the most points at the end of the session is the winner

Okay, now that’s all out of the way and understood. Let’s get into the competition.

There were 11 points up for grabs in total, 11 walls, 11 opportunities for one climber to show their class and another to give in and concede a point.

I’m not going to go through every single one because I didn’t take notes like I’d planned to and I can’t remember them all. Instead I’ll just give you the memorable highlights.

Our first climb was a pretty unusual 5+ slab with yellow holds that were not the usual shapes that we’ve been used to. A slab is a wall which isn't quite vertical, its pretty steep, but not vertical. This means that usually there are fewer holds and you’re expected to balance your body weight against the wall to make it past sparse sections. 

This slab definitely posed more of a challenge than we were expecting and there were a few big gaps that forced us to get inventive. While Molly struggled with the biggest of the gaps and seemed stuck for a minute before boosting herself up to the next hold, making it in the end. I actually slipped and fell in the first quarter on my first attempt.

Luckily Molly is not so competitive that she would let me fall to my death. However, it was not the great start I’d been hoping. I did manage to make it without incident on the second attempt but I was stating to feel like maybe the win wasn’t in the bag. 

Score 1 - 1

Our next notable wall was one that has been bugging me for a long time. We’ve tried it about 4 times now and got nowhere near the top. Its a 6a with a bit of an overhang and a ridge that sticks out and make it hard to progress. You have to get over that ridge and use a big bobbly sloper to steady yourself but slopers are big round holds without much to actually grab onto. Molly went first and managed to make it 9/10ths of the way up, past the ridge (which is an impressive feat as neither of us had got that far before now) and onto the final move. Unfortunately for her (but fortunately for me) that last hold was just too far out of reach. This is where the size difference between us becomes the deciding factor.

 It’s a hold that you have to jump for no matter what, but its about a foot further for Molly to leap than it is for me so the thought of launching yourself into mid air (and kind of around the corner) is a bit scarier for her than it is for me. I mean it’s still pretty hairy and I had to ignore every survival instinct screaming “don’t jump!” to make it but I DID MAKE IT!  

Now, before we go on I have to address the issue of allegations that I cheated on this wall. What I was say in defence is that: yes my hand did touch a grey hold early on, on the way up, but also it was right below a blue one which I could have easily used instead I just slipped and had to grab something to stop myself falling. I also offered to come down and start again so that there would be no issue and no excuses or little annoying asterisks to sully my eventual win. It was agreed that it was fine and that I could continue without being accused of cheating... and yet as soon as my feet touched the ground the complaints started coming. 

Readers can make their own minds up, if you think I cheated (ahem Molly!) then you can subtract that point from me at the end. I’ll leave it up to you. However, for the meantime:

Score 3-2

The next climb was on the same wall. It’s a 6b so we’re both out of our depth a bit (or at least on out tippy toes bobbing up and down to snatch breaths). Its another one with weird shaped holds (all the yellow holds are like this I swear!) so we were up against it. 

Going into it, I think we were both pretty sure that nobody would be getting a point here and Molly gave up after only a few holds. I made it to the deadly ridge though, at which point my legs were shaking so much that people around us had started to giggle. No points. Only humiliation. 

Score remains 3-2

Our next few climbs were a tricky 5+ and a 6a wall, I thought I was bound to get some points and increase my lead but Molly was able to mach me at every one. 

Score 5-4

Now we get to the tough stuff. Arms were tired, toes sore, morale bruised. 

A saucy 6a with an odd twist so that you climb half way up and then have to change direction and continue up over an archway had us evenly matched. However, its brother, a 6a+, proved too much for Molly and (if I’m honest) it was a close call for me. I had to use a move that I have never done before and can’t say that I’d ever be able to replicate to get past this weird slug like hold on the left side that in the end gives you a platform to move on to the right. It’s a difficult one to describe but I’ll give it a go.

So there I was, balancing on my right foot, arms spread eagle gripping holds either side of my body. The left foot is the one that does the magic here. the slug hold is horizontal at about waist height so I bend my left leg back so my heel is against my butt and rest the knuckle of my toe on the slug. Then, using my arms to haul up, I rotate my left foot around until I’ve got enough of an angle to use that leg to push until i’m left standing atop the slug, wondering what the hell just happened and with 1/2 a wall left to go. 

Luckily the 2nd half wasn’t as crazy and though it took enough strength than my arms were tingling all the way back down, I made it to the top bringing the score to 7-5

The last few walls were all on an overhanging wall which we’ve done before and I know I can do. No points lost here for me but by now Molly was getting tired and although she pushed through 2/3 walls. I came away with another point to make:

The final score:

7 points to Molly

10 points to Me. (9 if you thought I cheated (Ahem! Molly!)

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Week 18

Unfortunately it wasn’t a proper week this week. I mean, 7 days still went by and everything but there was no climbing. Well not real climbing anyway. Molly and I have pretty busy schedules some weeks and it’s not always possible to find a time that we’re both free to hit the walls. 

Its a shame too because the heavy reliance on trash talk in the last two posts has gotten Molly all riled up and competitive. I always know exactly when Molly has read a post because of the inevitable backlash texts that come streaming in. 

I think the line that got her going the most was “I miss the days when out-climbing Molly felt like an earned victory,” - A statement which I stand by. You’ll all be pleased to know that she didn’t take it lying down... the response?

1. Not true

2. Challenge accepted. 

Let the games begin! I was all up for a good competitive session, maybe even doing another race or something to see who’s really boss. But, as you know... fate forced us to postpone the duel.

So, in the meantime I’ve gone bouldering. Bouldering is like rope climbing, but with no ropes. It’s only about 2/3 meters off the ground and the floor is covered with thick spongy mats to stop you from breaking all of your bones when you fall or jump down at the end. It’s not as fun, but it is probably a more intense workout. 

I think its because there’s no break in between walls. Normally you’d climb and then take a break to belay your partner but with bouldering theres no need for a belayer so nothing to stop you from doing back to back walls for as long as you can still feel your arms. 

Also the problems tend to be more difficult. They’re shorter so to keep it challenging they have to fit in as many tricky movies as possible into the small space they have. This means that there’s not really any such thing as an easy boulderng problem. I mean, they have beginner ones which are very easy, but once you get past the first level they all push you hard in some way.

Arms have been very sore ever since so I’m hoping that the extra training will give me the edge to come out on top next week. 

Tune in next time to see who is crowned climbing master and who will have to bend the knee. It’s everything to climb for and someone must fall. 

[verticaladventures-blog]

Week 17

Phew! That was fast, fastest week I’ve ever had! We went from week 16 to 17 in less than 24 hours.

Last night’s climbing was another monster session where we took on a bunch of 6a and 6b walls, smashed some of them and were smashed by others! We also joined by another special guest! It’s been ages since we’ve had one and it’s about bloody time...

Along side Molly and myself was Molly’s friend from work: Louise! It had been a good 6 months since she’d climbed so we thought we’d start easy and take on a few of the slabs upstairs by the cafe. Still plenty of hard stuff up there though and while Louise bossed a few 4s and a 5 me and Molly struggled to haul ourselves up a pretty nasty 6a+ with such crimpy holds that my finger pads were numb by the time I got to the top. We did both make it to the top eventually though. 

Next we went back downstairs and over to the ‘natural effect’ wall where we all had a go at a gnarly climb with a pretty bulgy overhang in the last third. I’m pretty sure we’ve climbed it before but its a gooden and on the second attempt, to make it more challenging we decided to try and give the 7a route a whirl.

Yep 7a. We are pushing the envelope! This particular wall’s 7a is interesting though, because its a lumpy natural effect one, you have to make it to the top without using any of the holds. 

Yes, that is as hard as it sounds. 

Didn’t quite make it to the top but I don’t feel that I’ve let myself down too much because though I did have to use 3 or 4 holds to get over the overhanging bulge at the top, I did make it 2/3rds of the way up without them. I’ll call that a win though: especially since at the moment we are struggling with 6b walls and I make it at least twice as far as Molly did.

Also, I think we have a new nemesis on our hands. Its a pretty overhangy purple 6b which we saw them setting last week. We were the first people to climb it then (oh yeah, fresh un-chalked holds!) and it seemed a bit out of our range given that we were both feeling pretty tired that session. This week we had at it again and, though we didn’t make it to the top we definitely got further. Far enough that it seems remarkably doable until you’re actually there half way up, panting and feeling your arms go to jelly. 

Still I’ve come to learn that if you’re only climbing walls that you can get to the top of then you’re not pushing yourself hard enough. I like to have at least 2 each week that are too hard so that I can really feel my limit. 

[verticaladventures-blog]

Week 16

Yeah, I know it’s not actually week 16... I’ve climbed a bunch since the last post but just haven't been writing about it because I’ve had lots of other things to do and also not that much was happening each week. It felt like I was having to really stretch to think of things that were worth blogging about and that wasn’t much fun. It’s not like I’m getting paid to do this, it’s a hobby FOR FUN and I was still having the fun part going climbing every week. 

So, why am I writing again now. Well, I think that it’s been enough time that (A) I’ve realised that I missed keeping a blog in some small way and (B) some interesting stuff has actually happened.  

For instance, Mystery Girl... Her name is Celeste. Yup. Just read it on her name tag. Mystery solved. We’ve hardly even seen her since actual week 16 because: (second piece of news) we have a new gym! 

What?! I know, right!? There are other places to climb in London! Total game changer. Our new favourite place is The Castle up near Finsbury Park. Its a dedicated climbing centre; not just a climbing room in a multi-sport centre and, the best part, its an actual castle. 

Sure it’s £2.50 more expensive and yeah its about three times as far away, which matters because I’m cycling there now (I’m cycling everywhere now) but really, it has some pretty good walls. (Though, to be honest some of the ropes are a little bit worn out and sticky.)

Also, SURPRISE! We are actually good at climbing now. Better than we have ever been. Finally the additional 2ft I have in reach over Molly is paying off and now I can get most of the way up walls that she won’t even attempt. While this is satisfying on a surface level, its also kind of a shame that we’re not so evenly matched anymore...I mean, usually we can still climb most of the same walls and make it to the top but being tall is just a huge advantage in this sport and some walls have holds that are just unfairly spaced out. I kind of miss the days when out-climbing Molly felt like an earned victory. 

Still, to be completely fair, there are still some occasions when she’s getting to the top and I’m left in the dust but they’re getting rarer. 

Both of us have smashed through our old records though and now climbing a 5+ is laughably easy (except for literally one 5+ at the castle which I honestly think is missing a hold or has been mislabelled...i promise I’m not just being a wimp!).

We’re pretty regularly taking on 6a and 6a+ walls and coming out victorious which feels awesome! However, my moment of pride actually came back at Westway a couple of weeks ago when I powered my way through a 6b that nearly killed me. I thought it might be doable when I first attempted it but waited around too long picking my route so by the time it came to the final push I was too fatigued. Took a break and then just flew up the first quarter, managed to get myself around the vertical bump and then just dragged myself up the final holds which are pretty nasty crimps and awkwardly far from each-other. 

Anyway, I’ve had a thought about how I can make writing this more fun and less of a chore so I’ll be updating weekly again for a bit (hurray!) and I’m going climbing again tonight so it shouldn’t be too long till the next post. 

[verticaladventures-blog]

Week 15

So, much warmer this week, we were actually managing to work up a sweat rather than working down goosebumps! Naturally though this meant that my hands were slipping about all over the place, even with the new chalk I bought last week!

Those of you who have kept up with the blog or been readers since the very beginning will know what a chalk obsessive I am. We've been on a long (and very chalky) adventure together over the past 15 weeks. First, the chalk crunch (which I liked) then the chalk ball (which i didn't). After that I tried liquid chalk and thought that it was the answer and then, finally, after weeks a combination of all three proved the most effective at keeping my clammy mitts dry and grippy.

Then, tragedy struck and I ran out of the chalk crunch which I had been using.

 There was a little loose powder in the bag but at the outset it looked like I was going to have to use the chalk ball again (horror of horrors). Until, as I was paying the entry fee I saw bags of ‘Americas #1 chalk’ on sale at a £2.50 each. Yes please. 

This week we headed back over to the area where our (my) old nemesis, 33 brown used to be. I say ‘used to be’ because the week after I told you all I wasn’t going to keep mentioning my failed attempts anymore, they took it down.

In one way, it sucks because now i’ll never be able to beat it. In another way, I’m glad its gone because I was never going to be able to beat it. Screw that pooper!

Anyway, now there is a pretty gnarly 5+ there with black holds, its tough but still manageable. I think the holds are just that bit closer together that you don’t feel like you have to leap between them. Maybe though, it just that I’m a better climber than I was when I last attempted brown. That’s true definitely, its hard to say if I’d have struggled with this new black route 6 weeks ago. It was still tough, especially at about the half way point when you have to make use of the features and really dig into the crack to make progress. 

Still feeling the pulled muscles in my fingers (ring and middle on my right hand) a bit too this week and so I was having to be careful not to rely on them too much. A couple of times I went for it out of either carelessness or necessity and regretted it. Hopefully by next week I’ll have recovered fully. I’m going to do some stretches in the week to try and strengthen the muscles. 

Since we were checking out old nemeses we wandered over to our old buddy Mint! Sadly, its been replaced by a few new routes and so, out of respect, we climbed a few of them. A 4+ and a 5+ that were pretty manageable and a 6a which is pretty much impossible for us right now. 

The thing is that there are very few holds and, although there are some features on the wall which provide some options, it was late in the session (actually the last wall we climbed). 

There is a huge gap though, about a quarter of the way up, which had me stumped in the moment but now thinking about it I’m pretty sure you’re supposed to dyno it. 

What is dyno? You ask. Yes, I know. It’s a new term for me too, one which I learned by watching a bunch of climbing videos on youtube recently. I’ve been trying to cultivate good/better technique these last couple of weeks and it occurred to me if I was trying to learn any other skill then youtube would probably be the first place I would go to for a tutorial/guide; for some reason I hadn’t thought to check until now. 

So what it dyno? It’s basically when you have a large gap to traverse and to continue on the route you have to launch yourself upwards and grab the next hold. So basically, during a dyno jump (maybe it’s not called a dyno jump but anyway) you have a few milliseconds where you have zero contact points on the wall... pretty terrifying. 

Anyway, I have learned a bunch of new things between this session and me sitting down to type this out which I can’t wait to try out next time! Probably not going to launch straight into dyno (see what I did there?) but there’s some other cool stuff too which I will tell you about next week! 

[verticaladventures-blog]

Week 14

This week has been practically arctic with heavy snowfall (for England) and a chilly Siberian wind from the east. As a result, climbing conditions are perfect for somebody like me and I had a pretty good session.

Usually I’m the kind of guy that needs a bucket of powdered chalk on their hands before every wall and still ends up with dripping palms before the top. This week though, I probably didn’t even need chalk (though obviously I still did use it because I have a slight obsession) to get a good grip and I was reading the top with dry hands every wall! Incredible!

The down side (for Molly) is that she had to wear full outdoor gear, including bobble hat, just to stop the shivering from shaking her off the holds. And, while my hands were at optimum climbing temperature, hers were like little frozen icicles; all numb and unable to get a good grip. 

Fortunately, the centre has heaters and, when it all gets too much, its possible to sneak away and stand under one of them to shake of the chills! 

So, with ideal conditions for me (and less than perfect ones for my chilly companion) it was my week to shine; and shine I did! Taking on a couple of difficult walls straight away it almost felt like a 6a was comfortable ground. I say almost because obviously they are still hard, but this week they were feeling like a pretty manageable challenge; so we did a few of them.

Now, last week I was pretty hard on Molly for her performance (after bragging the week before) but this week I feel like doing that again would be a bit unfair. However, what I will say is that this week I had conditions on my side and so naturally I was outclimbing pretty hard. 

We actually did try to have a race, near the end of the session but both of us were too tired by that point and neither of us managed to reach the top. I fell, she gave up. There something about the added pressure of a race which makes it so much more difficult; its really easy to spend all your energy to get ahead/keep up on the first few meters and then be left with nothing for the final few holds. 

[verticaladventures-blog]

Week 13

Unlucky number thirteen! Maybe that explains why I pulled a muscle in my hand this week? Although, I was born on the 13th so I’ve always privately considered it my lucky number!

It was on a tricky 5+ wall around on the inside. The holds were pretty frequent but they were tough ones. Small little ridges that you have to dig into with your fingertips. I guess I’m not used to having to use so many small holds in a row. When I really went for it and put (probably definitely not all but absolutely a lot of) my body weight on only a couple of fingers, I felt an uncomfortable twinge; now my hand feels all fizzy and when I move my middle and ring fingers I get more twinges down the underside of the upper arm. I’m sure it will go away soon haha! (Not worried promise!)

This week, after Molly’s proclamation concerning 4s and why she wouldn’t stoop to climb them anymore, there has been a suprise development!

Who would have guessed it? Only one single week since her coronation and the Queen’s crown has fallen! Yes, Molly climbed a 4, but do you know what else? She also climbed a three?! (She won’t even let me climb them because they are too easy).

Of course, she will deny it…she has to. But, mark my words: for a moment she was struggling!

In addition, before that wound heals, I’d like to throw a little salt in there and tell you all that I bested Molly again this week by talking down (or up?) a 5 which she couldn’t muster.

Molly: won’t do a 4, can’t do a 5. Hey-yo!

Off the back of that, we got to discussing our climbing goals and the conclusion was actually quite philosophical. Molly seeks (in all things I think) to be impressive for her size. For me though, if I were to take that mantra for myself what would it mean? I’m 6ft so does that mean I have to climb a massive wall to be impressive for my size or should I be looking for a really tiny wall to prove myself on? Then it would be like: “oh hey, that guy is impressively agile for his size!”

I’m not sure. What I do know is that at the climbing centre, nobody is watching you. I tested the theory this evening by grooving out by the bouldering wall and glaring around the room to see if anybody noticed. Nobody did.

Another thing nobody noticed, it’s how buff and ripped I am getting from all those exercise! They probably didn’t notice it because I haven’t really been doing it all that much. For real, I need to get back into doing my pull ups and press-ups ever day and now that Molly is going to be doing bootcamp fitness every week I’m going to have to get in touch with Juan Carlos and get cross fit.

This week’s installment of the mysteries of mystery girl are unfortunately going to be underwhelming as she wasn’t there tonight?!? Maybe she was hiding, maybe she read the blog and ran away, maybe…she’s been kidnapped. Maybe she tried to run away so I was forced to kidnap and hide her? Tune in next week.

(seriously though I didn’t kidnap her)

[verticaladventures-blog]

Week 12

So yes, there was no climbing last week. Through no fault of my own too, I might add. In fact, I was stood up…twice.

Firstly by Molly, too busy for climbing last week. This I can understand, everyone is busy. Some weeks I’m too busy for climbing (though I usually manage to squeeze it in anyway).

Secondly by a girl who I met on tinder who proposes to be keen for a climbing date but has been “not 100%” (flu, colds, tiredness) three weeks in a row. I think it’s time I took the hint I guess.

How fitting that today is Valentine’s Day!

This week we were back to the wall. Me and Molly, chalking up and taking on the world (or at least specific, specially designed parts of it, using the appropriate safety equipment).

We had a pretty good, but decidedly sleepy session with only one or two 6+ walls thrown into a mix of mostly 5s and 4s. I love a 4 these days, it’s such a confidence boost to be able to climb it with minimum effort. It also lets you concentrate on your technique in a stress free environment. You don’t have to do anything too crazy or creative so you can really focus on your body movement and try to embed those good habits.

While we’re on the subject of technique, we met up with Michal (a friend from work) at the centre. He’s pretty into his climbing, has been going since he was 5 years old and does it 3 times a week (and still would like to do more!)

Naturally we asked him for a few pointers and, after watching me climb a tricky 5+ he gave the following advice:

1. Keep arms straight

2. Keep your body close to the wall

3. Less talking, more climbing

Working on these for next week!

In other news, we have ruled out both Sarah and Fiona as names for the, so far unnamed, mystery girl. Some detective work led us to notice the staff lockers all have names on them and neither of our guesses were there. Our best guesses now are Marie (Molly’s guess) and Nicki (my guess).

Today Molly also informed me that she has ascended to a new plane of existence within the realms of climbing and that she will no longer be climbing 4s as they are too basic and she is above them.

We’ll see my friend, we’ll see…

[verticaladventures-blog]

Week 11

This week I'm going to get straight to it and admit that I wasn't able to climb 33 brown again. I think it's just out of my ability range at the moment and for the last couple of weeks it's been the same spot that I'm getting stuck. So, I've decided that this is it, until I've climbed it, I'm not going to be mentioning the pooper each week just so say how little progress I've made in defeating it.

This week we had a pretty good session although I have to admit that I was very tired and all my muscles ache. Yesterday I was talked into doing CrossFit with Juan-Carlos from work and then in the evening I played a furious game of squash against Harry; who is getting better and better each week.

As a result I don't think I was really able to stretch myself to the full extent of my potential. Although I attempted a few 6a's and a 6a+ I was really only able to get to the top 5+ walls this week.

Though, on the bright side, I am definitely feeling better about my technique on the easier walls now and I've got the confidence to try new things like switching feet and relying on features more that I usually would.

Technically, I think my biggest flaw as a climber is that rely on my arm strength too much when I should be climbing with my legs. Often I find myself paralyzed if I can't get a good hand hold to pull myself up with.

It's something I'm working on.

Something else I'm working on, that we are both working on, is working out mystery girl's name! 'Who's mystery girl?' you ask. Well, buckle up because I've been meaning to write about this for a few weeks.

It all began on week one when we first met mystery girl. She was the one who administered the test to check if we knew what we were doing before we were let loose on the walls; the test that I initially failed.

After that, for a few weeks, we said hello when we saw her and as newbies to the centre she was our goto for questions and advice.

When I returned to retake my test, she was the one who passed me. When we wanted to know who the route setters were, she was there to tell us. When I gained weight after Christmas and we needed to learn how to tie a ground anchor, she as there to teach us how...

In a way she's been a silent character in this endeavour the whole way through and, a few weeks ago, we realised that we didn't even know her name.

She sometimes wears a name badge too, but the writing is so small that it's impossible to read it without getting uncomfortably close.

Of course we have our guesses, personally I think she looks like a Sarah. Molly thinks she's more of a Fiona (which I don't agree with because it makes me think of either the lady ogre in Shrek or a girl I once new who was really into horses... Like really into them).

Each week we've been trying to figure out a way to find it out, it's far too awkward to just ask now!

[verticaladventures-blog]

Week 10

Heeeyooo!! Double figures! Yes that's right, it's been a whole whopping ten weeks since I started climbing and what a journey it has been.

From the early days of vertigo and struggling up a three to tangling with a 6a+ and coming out victorious. (SPOILER ALERT: it's not the one you're probably expecting.)

This week was a triumph, and finally, after all my gloating about being only baby steps away from out climbing my friend and climbing mentor Molly: the inevitable has happened...twice.

The first was a tricky little number with a big bump in the middle and a couple of large slug like holds on the bottom half. However, it wasn't the slugs that caused problems, they were part of a different route (one which we both completed quite easily). This wall, with its hefty protrusion and fetching pink holds, had Molly trapped beneath the bump. Unable to gain significant purchase above, progress stalled and stopped...she was forced to descend.

I won't deny that it was a tough climb, a really nasty one (I mean of course it was no shitty pooper so I expected her to make it) but now the opportunity had presented it's self I was more determined than ever to make it to the top.

The bump had me stumpped for a quick minute too but (using my superior reach Molly will claim) I managed to get one foot up above it and haul myself into the upper section. From there it was only a few daringly spaced holds to the top (riding the high of having gotten further than my mentor) I took in my stride.

I had done it. Finally it was my time to gloat!

The second climb was a bit closer to the line; though a technical victory for me it was only by a few fingers.

It was an 80° wall with blue holds; nasty ones, far apart. Molly made it to the second to last hold but was only able to touch the underside of the final hold. Shaking her head in a gesture of defeat I had to lower her sadly down. So close, yet so far.

Obviously it was no trouble for me. It was only a 6a+.

Still I can't let my head grow too large as, yet again, this week I must recount a tale of defeat versus the mighty pooper rather than the victory song I had hoped to sing.

It's a hard wall. I've said it before. I'm saying it again.

I did get further though and my plan to speed past the early holds worked to some extent. This time I just ran out of stamina maybe five holds from the end. A meter and a half and I would have made it, but no. Not this week.

In addition we also noticed some changes at the centre. Notably, our old nemesis Mint has been disassembled and the yellow that has replaced it is easy.

So long you old bastard.

[verticaladventures-blog]

Week 9

Finally, after what seems like too long of a length of time, I return to the wall. I’m writing this bit on the tube on the way to the centre and I’m going to make a prediction here: this session is going to be tough.

This week, or rather over the last two weeks, I have been letting myself get away with skipping the daily pull-ups routine on a number of occasions and I haven’t done any press ups.

In addition I also played squash again last night so my legs are a bit achey. Actually, to be honest, it’s my bum that hurts the most. I’m pretty sure I pulled a butt muscle during an over zealous lunge for a wayward ball last night (no homo).

Okay. I was right, that was a tough session and now everything aches. I think taking a week off definitely made a huge difference; though the impact wasn’t all negative.

Yes, my muscles had begun to weaken and I’d lost a little confidence in making leaps between far holds. However, after a week away, I was super keen and tackled every wall with the enthusiasm of a heron at a fish farm.

I think what I’ve realized today is that a 4+ is a bit too easy. I’m able to scamper up it in no time and it’s not too much of a challenge. But, a 5 is usually a little bit too hard and it takes some serious effort to get to the top or even half way. Still, I’ll keep trying and hopefully after some training mid week, which I promise I’ll stick to this time, I’ll be up for a challenge next week.

Speaking of challenges, this week I went down to brown town again for another run in with our now not so new nemesis: the shitty pooper at no.33. This time I wasn’t expecting to beat it. In fact, I knew I wouldn’t. Really my main goal was just to get past the opening third quickly and practice conserving energy for later on. 

Let me just say: damn, that is a tough piece of shit wall. Even Molly, who had conquered it a couple of weeks earlier, was not up for taking it on a second time.

Needless to say, I didn’t make it. However, I did begin quickly and get past the first few holds with enough energy that I was able to get further than last week; though still not the furthest I’ve been before. It’s just tricky up there, picking a viable route is tough and the more fatigued you get the harder it is to think clearly and see the opportunities. Towards the top you just have to use features, there’s no way to make it without and they aren’t always obvious when you’ve got your nose to the wall.

Anyway, aside from that inevitable disappointment we had some fun moments. Notably wall 10, which is one in a crevice. Its a lumpy wall, which is intimidating, and its no easy climb but the reward is that on the way back down you get to pretend that you are Tom Cruise in Mission Impossible.

Lumpy No.10 in the crevice.

(it’s higher than it looks)