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Review of Carpe Diem Liveaboard: diving Komodo during Covid
I recently returned to Komodo for my 16th diving trip there. The Komodo national park has been totally closed off for the last 6 months due to Covid. I’m grateful that I had the opportunity to be one of the few people who got to dive this amazing ecosystem after such a long break. Would there be more fishes? Fewer fishes? I was very excited to find out. I spent a week on the Carpe Diem, a small intimate diving liveaboard. Read on for my review of the Carpe Diem liveaboard and to find out what it’s like to dive Komodo when no one else is around.
Getting to Labuan Bajo Indonesia
The Komodo national park is reached via the Labuan Bajo airport. Due to the coronavirus pandemic, foreigners are not allowed to fly into Indonesia. I was lucky, since I was already in Bali and so I was able to do this trip at a very special time.
Tip: if you are desperate to get into Indonesia now, I have heard that it might be possible to enter with a business visa or Kitas. It’s worth checking with an Indonesian visa agent.
From Bali, I usually fly to Labuan Bajo with Garuda, as they have a great luggage policy for diving equipment. The only airline currently flying to Labuan Bajo was Batik air, and I’m happy to recommend them. They offer 20kg of free luggage, the plane is clean and comfortable and the staff friendly. I took this flight 4 times in the last month, and it was always on time. They also never checked the weight of my carry-on bag.
TIP: At the time of writing, Garuda allows 30 kg of diving equipment as free extra baggage, making it the best choice of airline for divers in Indonesia. If you are thinking of booking Lionair because it looks cheaper, do read my review on why I will not fly Lion air here.
I took one of my flights in business class, and it is not worth it. You get an extra 10 kg of baggage allowance and a bigger seat, but that’s it. No lounge access, and no extra food and drink in the plane. Not even a coffee or a soft drink. Just the same small plastic water bottle you get in economy.
There are some additional requirements to fly due to the coronavirus. I had to take a rapid test a few days before and show it on arrival and departure. I also had to download the Indonesian EHAC application on my phone and complete the form for each flight, which was checked on arrival. All the extra COVID controls were fast, friendly, and well-organized.
If you want to spend a few more days in Komodo before or after your trip, check my reviews of the Seraya Resort and the Ayana Komodo.
Arriving at the Carpe Diem liveaboard
Cecile, the co-owner of the boat, came to greet us at the airport. A car was waiting for us, and within 10 minutes, we were whisked away to the tender boat and onto the Carpe Diem liveaboard. The crew was waiting for us with cold drinks and cold towels, and lunch was promptly served on the outside deck.
I was surprised to see that this trip would just be me and one other passenger. Most other business-oriented companies would have canceled the trip due to the low number of participants. Carpe Diem has a policy of not canceling trips, which shows how much they care about their customers. So it was just two of us, with eight staff to pamper us.
Our luggage was transported to our cabins during lunch and the vacation could truly start. What a feeling to be on an authentic boat after 6 months of COVID lockdown! We left the port during lunch sailing to gentle waves as we started to explore the Komodo national park.
Review of the Covid protection measures onboard The Carpe Diem liveaboard
Carpe Diem takes the threat from Coronavirus very seriously and had a few measures in place to protect guests.
All guests require a COVID rapid test in order to enter the Komodo National park.
The Carpe Diem liveaboard had installed a sink at the entrance of the boat and near the dining area, making it easy for everyone to wash their hands a few times a day. Our temperature was taken upon boarding the boat and all the staff would be wearing face masks at all times.
We were asked to wear a mask only when going ashore to visit some islands where other people were present. The rest of the time was mask free.
They also had prepared individual water tanks to rinse our snorkeling mask after each dive.
All those measures made me feel safe while on the boat.
Review of The Carpe Diem liveaboard boat
The Carpe Diem Liveaboard is smaller than most boats cruising Indonesia. However, since it takes only 8 guests, it always feels both spacious and intimate. It is a peaceful and serene boat. There are two dining rooms, one inside, and one outside.
We enjoyed plenty of deck areas with lounge chairs and shade. They have eight lounge chairs so even a full roster of passengers can all relax on deck at the same time.
I truly enjoyed the top deck, and we got to witness some amazing Komodo sunsets from up there.
The lounge area at the stern of the boat was also a phenomenal place to relax, but don’t use it while the boat navigates, as it can be dangerous.
Review of The Carpe Diem Liveaboard bedrooms
With only four guest cabins, it creates an intimate atmosphere. Though it’s a small boat, the cabins are spacious, comfortable, and tastefully decorated. My cabin had a queen bed with a bunk bed on top. It could fit three people, but is more comfortable for two. It had two sitting desks and plenty of storage space.
The bathroom was more comfortable and spacious than most liveaboards. The shower is separated from the rest of the bathroom so you don’t get everything wet after a shower, as is often the case on liveaboards. Shampoo and soaps are provided.
The cabins on the Carpe Diem liveaboard looked like they had been recently refurbished. Everything was new and in good condition. The roof window provided lovely natural light and ventilation in the cabin.
I had a look at the other cabins, and they also looked spacious. The biggest one, with the best view, is the one on the top deck. The twin cabin downstairs is also a great option if you don’t like bunk beds. There are really no bad cabins on the Carpe Diem.
Review of the service on the Carpe Diem liveaboard
The Carpe Diem liveaboard is very comfortable, but what makes it truly special is the attention to detail. Plenty of small gestures from the staff made our trip easier and more comfortable.
At any time of the day, Ice, the waiter, would pop up and ask if we needed a drink or anything else. He would also always have our favorite drinks ready as soon as we came up from diving. The chef was very intuitive and flexible. He noticed our favorite dishes and would do them again during the cruise.
Everyone on board was very welcoming, but what really made this boat stand out was the presence of Cecile, the boat owner, manager, and divemaster. She left the corporate world along with one of her colleagues and bought the Carpe Diem liveaboard. Cecile is very clear that these tours aren’t simply a commercial endeavor, and it shows with many small gestures. She is ever-attentive to the comfort of the guests and shares numerous stories during group meals. The cruise had a definite feminine vibe since along with Cecile as the owner, the boat captain is also a woman. She did a great job steering the boat. This makes the Carpe Diem a great choice for solo woman travelers.
Review of the food on the Carpe Diem Liveaboard
The owners are French, with the characteristic love of food, and it shows in the meals onboard. We enjoyed a mix of Indonesian and French food. From gratin Daufinois to ratatouille or Boulet with Tomato sauce, we explored a lot of famous French dishes and it was delectable. Every lunch and dinner, 4-6 dishes would be on offer, with meat, fresh fish, and seafood, along with vegetarian options. They were wonderful in adapting the dishes to guests’ preferences. Fruits are served after lunch and a dessert after dinner.
There was also plenty of food during the day. You will definitely never go hungry on the Carpe Diem liveaboard. It starts with an early 7 am light breakfast before the first dive. Then around 9:30, we got a cooked breakfast including eggs, bacon, pancakes, and more. Lunch was around noon. After the third dive, they would prepare an afternoon tea, with cakes, fried banana, chocolate donuts, and more.
All the meals were served at the large table on the front deck. The table is shaded and is a great location to enjoy the surrounding views, especially when we were navigating. Service was impeccable.
It’s worth noting that unlike many other liveaboards, soft drinks are included in the price. Beers are affordable, at 35000 Rp per beer (about 2 euros). Wine and other alcohol options are also available for purchase.
Review of the dive organization on the Carpe Diem liveaboard
The small size of the boat, catering to only eight divers, makes the Carpe Diem a lovely option for people who like to dive in small groups. Divers are generally split into two groups of four. The dive briefing was held at the dining table and started 30 minutes before the dive time. Cecile would show us a drawing of the dive site, talk about technical aspects, and describe the fishes and creatures we are likely to find. We would then put our wetsuits on. All the diving equipment would already be waiting for us on the speedboat we and just needed to walk down to it. Their speedboat is one of the best I have seen. Large, fast and comfortable. It can fit all the guests so there is no need to organize multiple trips to the dive sites
Once on the speedboat, Agus, who drove the tender boat this week, would help us put our tanks on. Everything was made very easy and the organization was flawless.
Cecile is a very caring and conscientious diver. She manages to figure out the best way to dive “difficult” sites to avoid strong currents, helping make divers with little experience feel comfortable with these trickier dives.
There is no nitrox onboard, but large tanks are available without an extra charge. Diving equipment is also provided free of charge (other boats often charge 100 to 200 dollars for a week of equipment rental).
On our trip, the Carpe Diem liveaboard offered 3-day dives each day. The maximum dive time was 60 minutes per dive. Night dives were also on offer, but none of us liked night diving so we skipped those and enjoyed the sunset in various gorgeous locations instead.
If you want to do more than diving, there are also kayaks and paddleboards available.
Our itinerary on the 7-night Carpe Diem liveaboard Komodo cruise
Day 1: Getting onboard and first dive in Komodo at Sebayur Kecil
Unlike most liveaboards, the Carpe Diem offered a dive on the first day of the cruise. We went to Sebayur Kecil, a sloping reef with nice corals and many fishes. Sebayur is excellent for check diving, as it is very protected and often has very low current. It has a sandy bottom with a maximum depth of 25 meters. The coral garden at 5 to 8 meters was so beautiful.
After the first dive, we enjoyed a beautiful sunset on board.
Day 2: Getting into the action in North Komodo
The Crystal Rock dive site in Komodo is composed of the two submerged pinnacles of Gili Lawalaut. The biggest rock goes up to the surface, and the smallest one is 12 meters down.
There were a lot of sharks and giant trevallies patrolling the area on our dive, including a grey reef shark. The channel between the two pinnacles had many schools of fishes including sweetlips and big napoleon wrasses.
Castle Rock is probably my favorite dive site in Komodo. It is an underwater pinnacle that starts at 5 meters and goes down to 30 meters. This dive site can have a ferocious current, making it often one of the most exciting dives in the entire park, but there was almost no current when we dove it. There are a lot of big pelagic fishes hanging out in the area.
The Golden Passage dive site in Komodo is exhilarating, as the drift can be quite fast through the channel between Komodo Island and Gili Lawa Darat. But again, there was little current when we dove it. This is a shallow dive site, with a maximum depth of around 20 meters. Here you can find the healthiest hard corals in Komodo. It is an excellent place to spot sharks at 20 meters.
Day 3: Looking for mantas at the core of Komodo
Batu Bolong is Komodo’s most famous dive site, and it’s an example of diving at its best. there is always a full-on festival for fish life at the “Hollow Rock.” The reef is in wonderful condition because of the rock’s topography and exposure to strong currents. Batu Bolong has everything you could wish for in a dive. Amazing hard and soft corals, dramatic topography, millions of small colorful fishes, and a lot of big predator fishes hunting in the blue. Napoleon wrasse and Whitetip reef sharks reside in deepwater areas, cruising to the shallow areas for hunting. Hawksbill turtles feed on the sponges and tunicates, giant sweetlips lurk in the gullies and overhangs, and surgeonfish danced around the pinnacle.
Our next dive was Manta Point at Makassar Reef. This is the largest dive site in Komodo, spanning over 2 kilometers. It is a sandbank with a sloping reef that is mainly sand and rubber.
The highlight of this site is that there are a few cleaning stations that attract mantas, mobula, and eagle rays. We were lucky to find a manta there since September is not typically manta season in Komodo.
The pink beach dive site near Komodo island is a gentle beach slope going down to 25 meters. A small wall starts at 15 meters with many crinoids. Unfortunately, I had to skip this dive because of ear problems.
A cruise in Komodo is not only about diving. There are many gorgeous beaches and viewpoints to explore. On day 3 we had drinks at Pink Beach and enjoyed a beautiful sunset.
Day 4: Exploring South Komodo and getting intense manta action
We headed toward South Komodo overnight after our evening at Pink Beach.
The sea was rough, the boat was moving a lot, and the captain decided to turn back and go to Padar island instead.
Once in Padar, the sea calmed down and they gave it another try. I have been to Komodo 15 times before, many times on liveaboards, and had never made it to the South due to bad weather, so I was excited to finally make it to the area.
TIP: Bring a 5mm wetsuit, as the water is South Komodo is usually much cooler than central and North Komodo. For Central and North Komodo, a 3mm wetsuit will be enough for most people. During our trip, the water temperature was around 27 degrees.
We did our first two dives at the Manta Alley dive sites in South Komodo. Manta alley is composed of arid rock formations at the bottom of Komodo island. We saw some dolphins from the boat but unfortunately didn’t see them underwater. But we did see mantas—so many that it was hard knowing where to look. I stopped counting them after the first five, but there must have been over 30. They were coming from everywhere. Feeding, doing the mating dance, getting cleaned… what a party!
Also, I have never seen so many krill in my life. The water was so thick with them that they were ruining our visibility. I was half expecting whales to come by and feed on this feast. Mantas came and went in their graceful ballet. Some were more curious than others and came to have a good look at us. What an amazing dive!
After lunch, we cruised towards the south of Rinca island. Cannibal rock dive site is an underwater peninsula in the middle of a bay. The sea is surrounded by hills, making the area protected.
The underwater peninsula starts at 5 meters. It is formed by black rocks and the most incredible, colorful soft corals. We saw two turtles and an absurd number of fishes. Visibility was much lower than in central Komodo, which I am told is normal for South Komodo because the water is nutrient-rich.
In the evening, we took the small boat to go and look for Komodo dragons on the beach, but they weren’t in this area of the park tonight, so we enjoyed the sunset from the boat.
Day 5: Finding nudibranchs and shrimps in South Komodo
We were still in the south of Rinca at the start of day 5, and we did the Tunjung dive site. This dive site is near the exit of the bay along a cliff. It is a wall dive that finishes in a plateau of rocks, sandy bottom, and coral bommies. Again, the colors of the soft corals were amazing. This is an extraordinary place for macro photography lovers, as there are plenty of nudis and shrimps to be found everywhere. Keep an eye on the blue, too: despite the poor visibility, we saw a huge eagle ray swim by.
Our next dive site was Pulau Banana. Still in the south of Rinca, Banana Island is a dive site around an island with a mix of walls and a sloppy reef. Visibility isn’t great, but it is an amazing site for macro photographers. We found so many shrimps, crabs, and all kinds of nudibranchs. The soft corals around 15 meters deep were really beautiful.
After our last dive, we navigated towards Padar and arrived in time to watch the sunset. The view from the summit is stunning, with the beaches of different colors. It is a steep walk, but it is not technically difficult, since they’ve built a path.
TIP: for Padar, No hiking gear is required: it can even be done in flip flops. I did a time-lapse of the sunset, which you can see below
Day 6. Returning to central Komodo and the amazing Batu Bolong
We dived Batu Bolong again. We felt so privileged to be able to dive this amazing site multiple times with no other divers around. We were there during the slack and were able to go around the whole pinnacle.2 eagles came to check us out. A huge barracuda was patrolling the area. Most of the big fishes (including sharks) were taking advantage of the low current and were sleeping on the reef. The small fishes were there en masse and the show was spectacular. To top it off, two majestic eagles were fishing right on top of us as we surfaced.
I could do this every day!
We moved on to Tatawa Kecil dive site. Tatawa Kecil means a small smile. It’s a small island surrounded by a sloping reef. There was very little current when we dove it, just like many of our dives this trip, but the colors of the corals were stunning. We saw a few nudibranchs and many sweetlips fishes.
Our next dive was at Shotgun dive site (also called the Cauldron) in the Noth of Komodo. The Shotgun is one of the most exhilarating dive sites in Komodo. It is the channel between two islands, and it often has strong currents. On this trip, we dove it differently: entering from the side and avoiding most of the current.
The corals, both hard and soft, were beautiful. We saw a manta flying by and trying to feed into the current. Unfortunately, it didn’t hang around for long. We also saw a cow tail ray in the sandy bottom, the usual jacks, and many other schools of fishes.
Day 7: Experiencing a close encounter with turtles and mantas
Already the last day of the trip—it all went by far too quickly. The plan for day 7 was to do two dives in the morning and then some activities in the afternoon.
Siaba Besar dive site starts with a sandy bottom that progressively becomes a huge coral garden. This dive site is sometimes also called turtle city—I’ll let you guess why! The hard corals are massive, with lots of cabbage and staghorn corals. This dive site is usually quiet, as it is in a small bay, which also makes for a gentle and shallow dive. The main attraction here is the turtles. We saw at least 15 of them on this dive.
Our last dive of the trip was at Mawan dive site. Mawan is a gentle drift dive over a large coral garden. The coral is not fantastic, but the main attraction here is the mantas that often roam this site. We only saw one manta this time, but it was in a sociable mood. It kept coming closer to us, and at one point I thought it was going to land on me. I think they must have missed divers during the months that the park was closed. It was looking at us carefully and wanted to interact. What a nice finale to an incredible week of diving!
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We never saw another diver underwater during the whole week. We saw only two other dive boats in the whole park. Unfortunately, we saw many fishing boats roaming the park, both in central and in North Komodo, which makes me worried about preserving the fish stock in the Komodo national park.
We were offered many options for our final afternoon: kayaking in the mangroves, beach time, seeing the Komodo dragons, watching the sunset at Bat Island…
We didn’t go and see the Komodo dragons on this trip since I and the other passenger had already seen them multiple times. But if you have never encountered Komodo dragons, this is a must-do.
We opted for a relaxing option: having a drink on a sand atoll in the middle of nowhere and enjoying a bit of beach time.
We then came back to the boat for sunset to watch the bats migrating. They migrate every day in the evening. It is a stunning sight to see hundreds of large bats flying at the same time ( my photo doesn’t do it justice!) . It lasted for about 10 minutes.
The crew then performed a few songs for us to end what has been a perfect diving trip
Internet and phone connection in Komodo National Park and the way to Bali
There is no Internet aboard the Carpe Diem liveaboard. If you want a connection during the trip, buy a Telkomsel card for your mobile phone. It cost about 150,000 Indonesian rupees ( ~10 USD) with a data plan for a month.
Telkomsel has the best coverage in the remote regions of Indonesia.
The Internet connection was good in most of Komodo National Park. We often had 3G or 4G a few hours a day, and the boat would usually anchor at places with an Internet signal for the night.
The only place that had no internet signal was South Komodo, so expect to be unreachable for one or 2 days during this cruise.
TIP: The Internet signal is better the higher you go on the boat. It would often not work in the cabin, but it would on the sun deck. Don’t expect the connection to be good enough to download movies, but it was certainly good enough for web surfing, checking emails, and using messenger services.
When to dive in Komodo
The high season in Komodo is mid-June to the end of September. This is the dry season when you’ll find blue skies and great visibility. You can, however, dive in Komodo for the rest of the year, and you’ll have a higher chance of seeing manta rays during the wet season.
Despite September not being manta season, we were lucky and still saw mantas almost every day
Conclusions
What makes the Carpe Diem liveaboard special is its small intimate size and attention to detail. The owner is onboard, serves as the divemaster, and is incredibly friendly, hospitable, and attentive.
The Carpe Diem liveaboard is a terrific value for the money, especially if you need to rent diving equipment. Beginner divers will also feel comfortable with the small group size, a strong emphasis on safety, and skilled divemaster who will find a way to make even tricky dives more accessible.
This boat is also an amazing option for friends or families wishing to charter a whole boat.
I had a great time onboard the Carpe Diem liveaboard and highly recommend it.
For more information and to book your trip, check out the Carpe Diem website.
For more information about dive sites in Indonesia and liveaboards, check my diving section. I have visited the best dives sites in Indonesia and share all my tips and tricks with you
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Best things to do in East Sumba, Indonesia
Sumba is another amazing destination in Indonesia. It is a short one-hour flight from Bali and rewards visitors with stunning natural landscapes and cultural encounters. It might not be the easiest place to visit in South East Asia as tourism is still underdeveloped on the island but if you follow our practical tips, you should have a great adventure in Sumba.
This is my second time in Sumba. On my first trip, I explored the West of Sumba and stayed at Nihi Resort. It was such a good trip that I went back 10 months later, still staying at Nihi Resort but traveling to the eastern part of Sumba. Read below for more info on our road trip from West to East Sumba and practical tips to visit Sumba
Waikabubak
We started our journey in Waikabubak in the morning. Waikabubak is the biggest town near Nihi Sumba resort, and the closest airport is Tambolaka
Waikabubak is one of the popular spots in East Sumba. It surrounded by magnificent hills and small traditional villages. This place is widely famous for its astounding megalithic stone graves.
Kampung Tarung village in Sumba
Our first stop was the village of Kampung Tarung, where our guide Juliana is from. It is a pretty traditional village with a beautiful view of the valley. The village was very much alive as they were preparing for a major ceremony. We got invited into Juliana’s home and had a discussion about Sumba’s culture with her family members.
We then started the long drive to East Sumba and made a few stops on the way.
Galu Bakul village and its stone monuments
After our village discovery, we moved to another traditional village called Galu Bakul. It is famous for its stone monuments. The village is also famous for its rich culture and history. There are the royal tombs of King of Anakalang. Tourists and explorers from all around the world visit this village to experience its grandeur. These Galu Bakul stone tombs are sacred for the local people of the village. They pay tribute to their ancestors by visiting and maintaining their royal tombs. This shows the rich cultural values of the people of East Sumba.
Passing by the sleeping Giants viewpoint in Central Sumba
Along the road, we then came across the sleeping giant viewpoint. The magnificent hills look like just sleeping giants. The atmosphere up there is pretty pleasant and cool, but the landscape was very dry. Sumba had been suffering a massive drought and some regions had not had rain for the past 6 months.
Mouthwatering lunch at Warung Bangkalan in Waingapu
Don’t trust appearances. This is a tiny place that doesn’t look like much. It was recommended by our guide Juliana, and we probably would not have stopped there without her. The specialty of the place is rice and soups with goat. I had the goat skewers and they might be some of the most delicious skewers I have eaten. And the best value to as a meal there costs 1-2 USD.
Discovering Rende Village
Our next stop was Rende village. The village is a true representative of the Sumbanese culture and traditions. There are houses whose walls are actually made out of buffalo skins! Rende, also known as Rindi, is a village famous for kings and their slaves. This village has a huge history of slavery. The village comprises of stone tombs of the royal families. Ikat weaving is popular around Rende village, so it is a good place to buy Ikats or wooden souvenirs. We met a few people during our journey in the village.
Sunset on Walakiri beach in East Sumba
Walakiri beach is one of the most Instagrammed places in Sumba. Here you can enjoy the dancing mangroves which a hallmark trait of this beach. The dancing mangroves at Walakiri beach is especially popular at sunset when you can see the sun reflecting through the mangroves. There are a few bars on the beach so it is a great place for a sunset drink.
TIP: The Mangroves are more spectacular at low tide. We were there during high tide and it looked a bit disappointing so try and time your visit to a sunset or sunrise at low tide.
Ending a long day at Wera beach resort
The Wera beach resort is a perfect place for the perfect stay in East Sumba. It is close to the beach as well. The resort has a very pleasant environment guest. They have 2 bedroom houses for up to 5 persons maximum. Dont expect the level of sophistication of Nihi Sumba but the cottages were comfortable, clean and pleasantly decorated. The Food cooked by the French owner was delicious. We had a lovely dinner right by the beach.
TIP: Wera beach resort is hard to find, and the road to get there is a dirt road where our car got stuck… It was a bit stressful to get stranded in the middle of the night so the best option of probably to have the owner pick you up with a four wheels drive.
They also organized our transfer to the airport of Waingapu the next day. The airport is about 45 minutes away from Wera beach resort.
5 practical tips for exploring Sumba
The best hotel on the island is Nihi Sumba, and it deserves a few days stays. Horse riding, surfing, spa or just chilling by your private pool, the choice is yours. Don’t miss the school and clinic visit organized by the Sumba Foundation.
Sumba doesn’t have taxis or tourism transport waiting at the airport. So you need to pre-book your transport. Our driver, Roi, was great. He can be reached at +6282247719970. Be aware that transportation is Sumba is more expensive than in Bali with prices of 800000 -1200000 rupiahs per day normal.
A good guide will make all the difference in your trips because what makes Sumba special is its culture and its people. Juliana was her guide, She speaks perfect English and French and was very knowledgeable. It was a pleasure discovering Sumba with her. She can be reached at +6282236216297
There are 2 airports in Sumba with direct flights from Bali. It is easy to arrive at Tamboloka and depart from Waingapu airport
The distance between Waingapu and Tambolaka is about 180 km and takes about 4 hours without stops. There are, however many interesting stops on the way so plan the whole day for the trip ( and it will be a long day!)
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5 Ways Travel Will Change Post Coronavirus
Various cities across the world have been under a full or partial lockdown since January 2020. Though the COVID-19 has a mortality rate of around 3 percent, it is highly infectious, and the total number of affected people has crossed 16 million. Schools and universities have closed; some of us work from home, and some have lost their jobs.
In this turbulent scenario, tourism is one of the worst-hit industries. The industry heads hope that people would love to check open-skies, feel the cool breeze, be in the midst of woods, or the middle of the blue sea. Thus, travel experts are quickly making changes to suit the post corona world. Here we explain how travel will look like once the governments ease restrictions.
1. Face Masks and physical distancing:
Masks are here to stay till the medical fraternity finds a vaccine. Similarly, crowding will not be allowed. Be it snacking, waiting at the airport, or visiting famous tourist spots, everywhere you may need to stand in lines. People will also carry hand sanitizers, wipes as part of their luggage. Disinfectant sprays and UV sterilizers will be present on flights and public transport systems. People are more aware of cleanliness and hygiene practices now. Therefore, restaurants, lodging facilities, and associated businesses that are transparent about measures taken will be more appealing to the tourists. And, along with a passport, authorities might ask for a health report too. People with slight cold or fever may not be allowed to travel.
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2. Online reservation:
Most of us used to book our travel tickets and maybe the hotel rooms. Now along with booking, insurance could become a necessity. You also need to book in advance and get tickets for visits to a museum or fantasy parks. Such measures could reduce the crowd and ensure social distancing. Also, it gives time for the maintenance staff to clean and sanitize the place regularly. Every location might take more time, but the experience would be enhanced. The number of seats at theatres, sports events, etc., might be limited. People may not prefer parties or campfire nights. They may avoid cruise holidays and would like to travel only in small groups with family members or close friends.
3. Increased preference for self-driving and private villas:
As the infection rate begins to recede, there will be lockdown relaxations. People might prefer going out to nearby locations to return home in case of any emergency. People will favor weekend trips or single day trips rather than long vacations on foreign land. Also, there will be an increased demand for private and isolated rental properties than hotel rooms or resorts. This is Luxury travel has always been a fan of private villas. For inspirations, do check our reviews of Nihi Puncak villa in Sumba, Samastiti villa in Ubud, or Miskawan in Ko Samui.
An urge to be self-sufficient while touring is very much evident. So, it is not surprising to see people having a kayak roof rack installed on the cars while venturing out to a weekend getaway.
4. More flexibility:
Governments are lifting and imposing restriction measures based on the ground situation and availability of healthcare facilities. Thus, people are not able to plan their vacation in these uncertain times. Hence, the travel industry is wooing people by giving them flexible options and relaxed terms and conditions. They are allowing postponement, cancellation, and rescheduling of trips. Late checkouts and delays due to transport issues are accepted. They are not canceling loyalty programs and memberships. Today, the hospitality sector ensures complete transparency concerning sanitization and cleaning measures taken.
5. Responsible travel:
Our cities are overpopulated and congested and are severely affected due to the virus spread. People will explore less known places and be more concerned about safety, cleanliness, and neatness. Self-isolations, quarantines, and restrictions to stay home will make us long for the treasures of nature. The pandemic has given us the reason not to mess with the environment anymore. Sustainable tourism could become the norm. People have to be more concerned about the economic, environmental, and cultural viability of a place.
Final thoughts:
A few countries have reopened their places. But many parts of the world are still under the panic of the pandemic. Moreover, with many receding economies, one is likely to be judicious and spend money only when required. Cleanliness and hygiene are going to be the prime reasons for choosing accommodation or even a travel destination. Governments, businesses, and people will avoid unnecessary travel. Tourists are going to stress on the quality factor. International travel might take more time to resume. Travel agencies and companies should provide a transparent hygiene policy, travel insurance, and emergency help. It is advisable to concentrate on domestic, emerging, and unexplored locations. And, people need more awareness of ecological balance, natural food chains, and sustainable tourism.
This article was written by Rebecca Siggers
Rebecca Siggers is a passionate writer & guest blogger. Writing helps her to improve her knowledge, skills & understanding about the specific industry. She loves writing & sharing her knowledge mostly in the Travelling Industry. She believes traveling is the key to a peaceful life & wants to spread her belief across the world. Apart from writing, She loves Traveling and Reading.
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Review of Six Senses Uluwatu in the time of Coronavirus in Bali
I spent 3 days at Six Senses Uluwatu in May. It is one of the few hotels in Bali that stayed open during the crisis. Read on for my general review of the Six Senses Bali as well as my impression of what it feels like to travel during the Coronavirus
Getting to the Six Senses Uluwatu.
The Six senses is located in the southernmost part of Bali. It is a mere 30 minutes drive from the airport so very convenient if you are coming to Bali for just a few days.
I came from villa Seaview near Air sanih in the North of Bali. So it was a long drive that took over 3 hours.
I was in Bali before all the travel lockdowns started and decided to ride the coronavirus here. I stayed in a beautiful and isolated villa Seaview and had been self-isolating in the house for 8 weeks. You can find more info about the villa here. As the coronavirus situation in Bali seemed mostly under control, I decided it was time to go for a minivacation and the six senses seemed like a good and safe option.
A car from Six Senses Uluwatu came to pick me up at 9 am and we drove through the whole island. I felt weird to go out of the house after 8 weeks. We drove through many villages in North Bali where life seemed almost normal. I was impressed that most of the people seemed to be wearing masks and water stations for hand washing have appeared everywhere.
Ubud and the south of Bali were much quieter with most of the shops and restaurants targeted to tourists still closed. It had an eery feeling.
Checking in the Six Senses Uluwatu
We arrived around 12:30.
As we crossed the hotel security, an officer did the normal car security check. What was different this time is that he took my temperature.
The resort is built along a cliff and the lobby is at the top of the cliff. The view from the lobby goes out to the sea and is stunning. There were very few customers in the hotel. I was told they were running at 10 percent occupancy.
My check-in was very swift with no other customers’ in sight. I was given a drink of Jammu (a Balinese mediational drink) and a few delicious cookies.
I and my luggage were then transferred into a golf cart and we were on our way to the villa
The Six senses Uluwatu resort and its infrastructure
As we were driving down the curvy lane, I realized how massive and built up the Six Senses resort actually is. There are over 100 rooms. Most of them are little villas with a private pool. Given the cliffside location, all the rooms have a beautiful sea view.
What surprised me however is that we could not hear the sea. The cliff is so tall that even if you are by the side of the cliff, you can’t hear the ocean. I was coming from villa Seaview by the sea in North Bali where the pool falls into the sea and had gotten addicted to the sound of the wave so that was a bit of a disappointment.
The main area of the resort is by the cliff. There you will find the restaurants, bars, spa, gym, library, boutique, and the main pool.
The main pool is simply stunning. Imagine a huge infinity pool right by the cliff. No-one could tell me the length of the pool but I would guess it was at least 100 meters long. Most of the time, I had that huge pool to myself and it was an amazing place to do laps.
The lounge chairs by the pool are plush and comfortable. Service was flawless with water and towels brought up each time I arrived. Worth noting that the umbrellas are not moveable so at some time of the day it was difficult to get shade (and the resort is facing South)
The pool is surrounded by the Roka and Crudo restaurants. The Roka Bar has a great location and sea view.
I didn’t get to try the spa. The gym was unimpressive. It was relatively small and didn’t have a sea view so I didn’t use it. The equipment looked clean and modern though so you can keep your workout routine while there.
The garden is beautifully landscaped with a lot of bougainvillea and other exotic plants. My only complaint would be that the resort is too built up with rows upon rows of Villa. I understand that land in Bali is getting expensive and most new hotels in Bali are overbuilt. But as the six senses resorts promote sustainability, I would have appreciated a bit more space left to nature and gardens like at the Six Senses Con Dao
The activities at Six Senses Uluwatu
Six senses usually have a weekly program of activities to keep guests entertained. I was looking forward to it (especially since I had stayed home for 8 weeks before that)
I was a bit disappointed to see that little activities were organized that week which is understandable given the low occupancy of the resort. The only activity on offer was the outdoor cinema.
The cinema is located on the right of the main pool and is totally breath-taking. I was alone so I could choose the movie from a list of about 40 movies. I loved every moment of it. Don’t miss it!
While in Bali, don’t miss exploring the island. You can read about day trips to East, West, North and even the center of Bali here.
The cliffside villa room review at Six senses Uluwatu
I stayed in the cliffside villa 36. Most of the villas at Six senses Uluwatu are one-bedrooms cliffside villas. They are quite modern and pleasantly laid out. Calling them “villa” is maybe an exaggeration because it is basically a bedroom and a large bathroom and a terrace with a pool.
The room is very well designed and comfortable. The style is “zen chic” and reminded me more of the Alila brand than the other Six Senses I have stayed at before.
The room is full of automation. You can control everything from the bed (except the pool and garden lights which are automatic so you can’t turn them off yourself). I don’t understand why hotels invest so much in-room automation. I personally find it annoying. For some reason, on my last day, the radio came on at 6:15 AM and the same song played 3 or 4 times. I never found out how to turn it off but fortunately, it turned off by itself.
The bathroom is the highlight of the room. There are 2 outdoor showers, 1 indoor shower and a great bathtub from where to relax with a pool and sea view. There is also a Japanese style toilet that stays warm the whole time. I am not sure how these fit with six senses eco-friendly values.
The pool is on the small size but big enough for a bit of swimming and I really enjoyed alternating my days between the privacy of the room pool and the splendor of the main cliffside pool.
My only regret is that the villas are too close to each other and I could hear the people staying in the villa next to me.
TIP1: if you want more privacy on your terrace, avoid the rooms near the central staircase.
TIP 2: the best villas are located at the bottom of the resort. Nearer the cliff and facilities of the resort. The lower you are, the easier it will be to climb up to your room after a visit to the restaurants or the spa.
If you are traveling with a group or family, there are 2- and 3-bedrooms villas available. The presidential villa looks stunning.
Review of the food at Six senses Uluwatu
As can be expected from Six Senses, the food was very good.
Due to the low occupation of the hotel, only the Roka restaurant was open.
It is a large restaurant with a view of the cliff and an indoor and outdoor area.
The breakfast was a la carte as there were not enough customers to justify a buffet
It was a cloudy day so we could use the terrace and enjoy the Seaview.
TIP: If you don’t want sugar in your juices, mention it. My first juice was very sweet
Service was impeccable and the food tasty.
Worth noting that as a precaution for the coronavirus, they would take our temperature and give hand sanitizer before allowing entry to the restaurant
True to the Six senses habit, there was a free ice cream station. It is located near the library and the boutique. I enjoyed my daily ice cream to keep me fresh on my way climbing back to the room.
My impressions of traveling in Bali during the Coronavirus crisis
While we move to the “new normal” phase and learn to live with the virus, many people are wondering if travel can still be enjoyable.
While some changes are noticeable, it didn’t prevent me from really enjoying my stay at Six Senses Uluwatu. I view the measures of temperature checking, hand sanitizer, and extra cleaning as necessary to ensure everybody’s health and safety. The staff was all wearing facemask which sometimes made them harder to understand but it is in my opinion a small price to pay if it means we can still enjoy travel. After staying home in lockdown for so many weeks, traveling to a new destination feels like taking a breath of fresh air.
The tourism industry has been one of the hardest hit by the Coronavirus crisis so traveling during this time also provides an income to many people who need it right now. Balinese people are very proud and will not complain but many have been hit financially very hard.
The rate of Coronavirus infection in Bali is much lower than in many other countries so the risks are probably lower here than in your home country. What you need to be careful of is not to bring the virus to the destinations that you visit. I did get a quick test before traveling and I think it is a responsible thing to do.
I would also suggest avoiding crowded places and built up hotels. Staying in low-density hotels or private villas is probably the way to go for the next few months
With those precautions in mind, happy travel!
Conclusion
The Six Senses Uluwatu resort deserves praises for its great service and modern rooms with private sea view pools. The promotional rate due to Coronavirus is a great value (you need to book it directly with the hotel). I recommend the hotel to people coming to Bali for a few days who want a convenient and relaxing escape in Bali.
Be aware that the hotel feels much more built-up than the other six Senses resort and has little Balinese feel. You could be in a luxury hotel anywhere in the world. If you are looking for a beach hotel, it is also not the place for you as there is no beach access.
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Protective Measures for Divers Against the Coronavirus
Coronavirus, also known as COVID-19, has caused an alarming health situation all around the world.As I went diving last week and was renting diving equipment, I wondered how to keep safe and avoid transmission, especially when using a regulator or mask that are in close contact with my face. Read on to find on the protective measures you can take to fight this virus when going diving. I also went back into my photo library to find some scary looking pictures to add to this article
Protective measure against Coronavirus while diving
Alert Network (DAN) has issued some protective bits of advice for all the divers all around the world to keep them safe against COVID-19, and you can find a summary below.
The rental equipment used in diving, snorkeling, and other water sports are highly susceptible to carry the virus and may speed up the process of dissemination of the virus. There should be complete sanitization of rental gears and regulators before using it.
Following are some of the protective measures, divers should adopt for their safety against COVID-19:
Personal Safety and Hygiene:
Regularly wash your hands
Wash your hands with a hand sanitizer containing 60% alcohol
Keep washing your hands for at least 20 seconds
Keep a 6 ft. distance from other individuals and avoid physical contact
Do not touch your eyes, nose or mouth with your hands (even if you just washed them)
Equipment Safety and Cleaning:
You must sterilize/clean the rental equipment used by the divers. As you do not know what germs it might be carrying and whether its prior user may or may not be a COVID-19 suspect.
Following are the diving equipment which should have 100% sanitization:
Scuba Regulator Mouthpiece
Snorkel
BCD Oral Inflator
Diving Mask
Dive Gloves
Sanitizing all the above-mentioned diving equipment is of paramount importance for the prevention of COVID-19.
How to Sanitize Your Diving Equipment?
Commonly used products for the cleaning of diving equipment are not much effective against COVID-19. Due to this inconvenience, you must sterilize them using other methods to ensure your safety.
Household Cleaners:
The U.S. Centers for Disease Control has stated that house cleaners are effective and right to use against COVID-19. In a solution of a 1% aqueous solution of bleach (sodium hypochlorite), dip the equipment for at least 15 minutes. Keep in mind that you need to soak the equipment entirely in the solution. Rinse it with clean water, and you are good to use it now.
You can also use any other cleaning product such as Steramine tablets or ammonium-based products.
Scrub the equipment:
Common antibacterial used for cleaning diving gears is not strong enough against COVID-19. So, when you wash them with these cleaning agents, try to scrub and brush them with a toothbrush or any other available brush.
Use Disinfecting Wipes:
After washing the dive gears, wipe them with disinfecting wipes. In this way, all the rental gears are good to use now. And you will be sure of its safety.
If you are in a country where you can still go diving, don’t forget to follow those precautions and stay safe.
Happy diving!
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Discovering central Bali in one day tour
Bali is famous for its rich culture, picturesque landscapes, and rice fields. This one day tour allows you to sample the highlight of Bedugul, Jatiluwih and Mengwi. Read on for the itinerary and practical tips
Starting from Ubud
Our excursion began in Ubud. Ubud is a great place to stay while in Bali. It is centrally located on the island so you can do multiple day tours. Check my recommended tour for East and West Bali in one day. It also has great accommodation and great food, so after a day on the road, you can relax in comfort. Check out my review of Samastiti villa and my top 10 restaurants in Ubud. You need to book those in advance as they are often fully booked, so plan ahead. On this tour to central Bali, it took us 40 minutes to drive to the Mengwi Royal Family temple. The road goes through rice fields surrounded by magnificent mountain peaks and is very scenic.
Mengwi Royal family temple
Our first stop was in a town called Mengwi. The town has a long history and association with the Balinese Royal Family. The town is famous for its sacred temple complex, Taman Ayun.
Taman Ayun is the royal family temple. It was built in 1634 and is very impressive. Amongst its 3 courtyards and surrounded by water, the most impressive is the central courtyard. Tourists are not allowed inside, but you can walk around get a great view from a raised platform towards the end of it. There are gorgeous flowers along the path and a peaceful forest behind. It was surprisingly empty when we visited it.
It is one of the most beautiful and visited attractions of Mengwi. The temple is still in use by the local community for many purposes. They sometimes held ceremonies in the temple.
There is an art exhibition and a movie theatre. So even if you don’t have a guide, you can sit comfortably in a cool room and learn more about the temple and life in Bali.
It costs 30000 Rp. to enter and is worth the visit. It is only 40 minutes drive from Ubud and a lot less crowded than the main temples around Ubud.
Bedugul Market
After witnessing the glorious temple, we headed to the Bedugul Regency. It took us about 40 minutes to drive from Mengwi to Bedugul.
Bedugul village is high in the mountains. The road to get there is utterly beautiful and famous for its natural scenery.
TIP: Bing a small sweater as the temperature here is often cooler than Ubud or the South of Bali
We first went to the fruit market. Producers have been bringing their fruits and vegetable here for centuries. Candi Kuning is a very colorful market. The market is full of a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables.
Bali is also famous for its exotic spices all over the world. There are many beautiful flower shops as well. The market displays the perfect blend of color as well as scent.
Bedugul has many fruit producers because the altitude makes the weather cooler, so it is better to grow fruits and vegetables. It has, however, now become quite touristic and many people will try and sell you things. It is a great market to visit if you are not familiar with markets.
TIP: Don’t forget to bargain in the market
Bedugul temple Ulun Danu.
We got the chance to experience the awe-inspiring lakes in this district. First, we visited Lake Beratan, also known as Lake Bedugul. The lake is covered with a diversity of flowers and beautiful Cyprus trees. We visited the famous Ulun Danu Temple, which is located on the edge of Lake Beratan. The temple is famous for its unique architecture.
Ulun Danu is actually composed of four temples, but the most scenic one is by the water. It is the perfect selfies spot!
One interesting feature about the temple is that when the level of water in the lake increases, it gives a glimpse of the temple as it is floating on the lake water. It gives a very magical look to the lake as well as the temple. The local Balinese people visit the temple regularly.
The entrance fee to the Bedugul temple is 50000 Rp. Per person
The Bedugul Botanical garden
Our next stop was the Bedugul Botanical garden. It is only a few minutes’ drives from the temples and well worth a visit if you like plants. You can enter with your car (but motorbikes are not allowed). It is a very large park so having a car is useful. There are many huge and scenic trees on the way. There is also a cactus house and an orchid garden.
There is a museum of flowers used in ceremonies, but it was closed when we went.
TIP: The entrance of the park is very busy with local families and schools, but if you drive a bit, you can find much quieter areas towards the back.
If you are traveling with kids, there is a zipping and tree adventure park called treetop adventure. We didn’t do it, but it looks super fun
TIP: Don’t lose your entrance ticket as it will be asked at the exit
The price for a car and 2 persons was 45,000 Rp.
Jatiluwih Rice fields.
The road from Bedugul to Jatiluwih is scenic, with lots of little villages and steep rice fields. It takes about 40 minutes of small curvy road.
The rice terraces of Bali are a pure depiction of art. You can enjoy the fascinating sunset from the rice terraces. These unbeatable in natural beauty, rice terraces are even recognized by the UNESCO. You can walk around as much as you want before returning to your hotel.
Don’t however think you will be alone; it was very busy when we went with even traffic jams on the road!
We had lunch there. Food was very average and overpriced, but the view of the ricefield was worth it. There are about 10 restaurants with huge terrace, and they all sell very similar food.
There is a 40,000 Rp. Fee Per person to enter the road that goes through Jatiluwih.
After Jatiluwih, it was already time to return to Ubud. It took us a bit more than oe hour to drive back
Conclusion
This is a great day tour that allows you to sample some of the best features in Bali. Beautiful temples, nature, and scenic rice field.
For more day tours suggestions, read my article on West Bali and East Bali. There are so many amazing things to do in Bali!
If you need a place to stay, check out Samastiti Villa in Ubud. They can also help you find a reliable driver for the trip.
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Visiting the hidden gems of Singaraja, Bali’s old capital in one day
North Bali is seldom visited by tourists but has a lot to offer. Find out a one-day tour plan for Singaraja, Bali’s second-biggest town. It used to be the capital of Bali and still has a few colonial Dutch buildings.
We started our day from Air Sanih that has amazing beachfront villas for rent. It is a great place to chill for a few days. There are not many places in the world where you can get a fully serviced beachfront villa for less than 200 USD per night. We stayed at Villa Seaview, and I highly recommend it.
TIP: All the attractions are quite spread out, so the easier way to visit Singaraja is to rent a car and a driver for a ½ day or for a full day.
The Lontar Museum of Singaraja
The lontar museum is an incredible place. At first, it looks like just a small room with boxes, but the staff of the museums, the guardian of the lontars, regaled us with stories of Bali and the meaning contained in those precious boxes.
Lontar is an old type of books created out of palm leaves
The oldest lontar is from the 14th century. They talk about philosophy, natural medicines, mantra, or even architecture or archaeology.
They were also able to identify our Balinese god manifestation based on our birthdate.
If you are interested, for a fee, they can even prepare a longer text-based on research in the lontar manuscripts based on your birthdate that will highlight your special qualities and power.
Tip: In google map, look for Gedung Kirtaya
Witnessing the Balinese school dance at Gedung Sasana Buaya
Every Friday at 11:00, the local school puts together a Balinese dance and music show.
The quality of the gamelan music and the dancing is stunning. Especially when you realize it is all performed by kids
It is held in a big semi-open-air stage with lots of seating areas. Performance is free of charge and lasted until 13:00
Sasana budaya is also the location of the old palace
Where to have lunch in Singaraja?
Singaraja is famous for its Syobak. It is made of pork with the special Syobak sauce and is served with rice and pork crackers. It is very popular and can be found in many restaurants around town.
A famous Syobak place is restaurant Syobak chi Khelok. It is a very simple local place, but it was very tasty.
The old harbor has a few scenic restaurants on stilt.
And if you crave western junk food, there is a KFC and a Mcdonald in Singaraja
Visiting the old harbor of Singaraja
The old harbor is a nice beach walk with a few colonial buildings.
You will see a big statue that is named Yudha Mandala. The monument is a topless Indonesian soldier who holds an Indonesian Flag and is pointing to the sea.
The Museum Soenda Ketjil
The museum Soenda Ketjil is located next to the harbor. It is a small museum with the history of Indonesia. The museum itself is not impressive, but again, the museum guard was very helpful and shared many stories about Indonesia.
TIP: When you visit a tourist site or a small museum that is free of charge, it is customary to make a small donation, especially if the staff was helpful. There is often a donation box, and 10,000 to 20,000 Rpies per person will be appreciated
The Chinese temple of Singaraja: Klenteng Ling Gwan Kiong
The Chinese temple is also located near the old harbor. It is a pagoda-style building that was built in 1873. The architecture is bright colored and has nice carvings. It was very peaceful and tranquil when we visited. One of the temple employees guided us through the temple, explaining Chinese traditions. The temple is still used by the local Chinese community for worship. What makes it unique is that 3 different communities use the same temple for worship: Tao, Konghuchu, and Buddha.
Look for the pool in the middle of the main building. It contains turtles
Getting lost in Singaraja streets and the traditional market
Thee are many shops, and the town is often busy. The main traditional market is located on Diponegoro street. You can find Balinese food, fruits, and vegetables but also clothes and other items.
This is a great market to visit for people who are not familiar with markets in Indonesia.
Singaraja also has a Carrefour supermarket, which is the best place in the region to stock up on western food.
The amazing Beji temple
On your way back from Singaraja to Airsanih, don’t forget to visit the Beji temple. It is one of the most beautiful temples in the region. This temple is an irrigation temple and
This temple is dedicated to Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice in Bali. The carvings in this temple are spectacular
TIP: Don’t forget that to visit temples in Bali, you must wear a sarong and cover your shoulders
Conclusion
We had a great day visiting Singaraja and learned a lot about Balinese culture and history. Yet we barely saw any other tourists. Singaraja and the Beji temple are well worth a half-day of your time if you are interested in discovering more about Bali and want to get off the beaten tracks of South Bali.
Enjoy!
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Practical tips for exploring East Sumba
Find out why Sumba is an amazing destination in Indonesia. It is a short one-hour flight from Bali and rewards visitors with stunning natural landscapes and cultural encounters. It might not be the easiest place to visit in South East Asia as tourism is still underdeveloped on the island but if you follow our practical tips, you should have a great adventure in Sumba.
This is my second time in Sumba. On my first trip, I explored the West of Sumba and stayed at Nihi Resort. It was such a good trip that I went back 10 months later, still staying at Nihi Resort but traveling to the eastern part of Sumba. Read below for more info on our road trip from West to East Sumba and practical tips to visit Sumba
Waikabubak
We started our journey in Waikabubak in the morning. Waikabubak is the biggest town near Nihi Sumba resort, and the closest airport is Tambolaka
Waikabubak is one of the popular spots in East Sumba. It surrounded by magnificent hills and small traditional villages. This place is widely famous for its astounding megalithic stone graves.
Kampung Tarung village in Sumba
Our first stop was the village of Kampung Tarung, where our guide Juliana is from. It is a pretty traditional village with a beautiful view of the valley. The village was very much alive as they were preparing for a major ceremony. We got invited into Juliana’s home and had a discussion about Sumba’s culture with her family members.
We then started the long drive to East Sumba and made a few stops on the way.
Galu Bakul village and it’s stone monuments
After our village discovery, we moved to another traditional village called Galu Bakul. It is famous for its stone monuments. The village is also famous for its rich culture and history. There are the royal tombs of King of Anakalang. Tourists and explorers from all around the world visit this village to experience its grandeur. These Galu Bakul stone tombs are sacred for the local people of the village. They pay tribute to their ancestors by visiting and maintaining their royal tombs. This shows the rich cultural values of the people of East Sumba.
Passing by the sleeping Giants viewpoint in Central Sumba
Along the road, we then came across the sleeping giant viewpoint. The magnificent hills look like just sleeping giants. The atmosphere up there is pretty pleasant and cool, but the landscape was very dry. Sumba had been suffering a massive drought and some regions had not had rain for the past 6 months.
Mouthwatering lunch at Warung Bangkalan in Waingapu
Don’t trust appearances. This is a tiny place that doesn’t look like much. It was recommended by our guide Juliana, and we probably would not have stopped there without her. The specialty of the place is rice and soups with goat. I had the goat skewers and they might be some of the most delicious skewers I have eaten. And the best value to as a meal there costs 1-2 USD.
Discovering Rende Village
Our next stop was Rende village. The village is a true representative of the Sumbanese culture and traditions. There are houses whose walls are actually made out of buffalo skins! Rende, also known as Rindi, is a village famous for kings and their slaves. This village has a huge history of slavery. The village comprises of stone tombs of the royal families. Ikat weaving is popular around Rende village, so it is a good place to buy Ikats or wooden souvenirs. We met a few people during our time in the village.
Sunset on Walakiri beach in East Sumba
Walakiri beach is one of the most Instagrammed places in Sumba. Here you can enjoy the dancing mangroves which a hallmark trait of this beach. The dancing mangroves at Walakiri beach is especially popular at sunset when you can see the sun reflecting through the mangroves. There are a few bars on the beach so it is a great place for a sunset drink.
TIP: The Mangroves are more spectacular at low tide. We were there during high tide and it looked a bit disappointing so try and time your visit to a sunset or sunrise at low tide.
Ending a long day at Wera beach resort
The Wera beach resort is a perfect place for the perfect stay in East Sumba. It is close to the beach as well. The resort has a very pleasant environment guest. They have 2 bedroom houses for up to 5 persons maximum. Don’t expect the level of sophistication of Nihi Sumba but the cottages were comfortable, clean and pleasantly decorated. The Food cooked by the French owner was delicious. We had a lovely dinner right by the beach.
TIP: Wera beach resort is hard to find, and the road to get there is a dirt road where our car got stuck… It was a bit stressful to get stranded in the middle of the night so the best option of probably to have the owner pick you up with a four wheels drive.
They also organized our transfer to the airport of Waingapu the next day. The airport is about 45 minutes away from Wera beach resort.
5 practical tips for exploring Sumba
The best hotel on the island is Nihi Sumba, and it deserves a few days stays. Horse riding, surfing, spa or just chilling by your private pool, the choice is yours. Don’t miss the school and clinic visit organized by the Sumba Foundation.
Sumba doesn’t have taxis or tourism transport waiting at the airport. So you need to pre-book your transport. Our driver, Roi, was great. He can be reached at +6282247719970 and he is on WhatsApp. Be aware that transportation is Sumba is more expensive than in Bali with prices of 800,000 -1,200,000 rupiahs per day normal at the time of our tip
A good guide will make all the difference in your trips because what makes Sumba special is its culture and its people. Juliana was our guide, She speaks perfect English and French and was very knowledgeable. It was a pleasure discovering Sumba with her. She can be reached at +6282236216297 and she is on WhatsApp
There are 2 airports in Sumba with direct flights from Bali. It is easy to arrive at Tamboloka and depart from Waingapu airport
The distance between Waingapu and Tambolaka is about 180 km and takes about 4 hours without stops. There are, however many interesting stops on the way so plan the whole day for the trip ( and it will be a long day!)
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The ultimate diving relaxation break on the Discovery Palawan Nature Escape Cruise
The Discovery Palawan Nature Escape Cruise takes divers to Apo reef and the north of Palawan. It’s an outstanding adventure. The cruise is short, only four nights, but it has a lot to offer: stunning landscapes, lots of activities, and, most importantly, good diving. The cherry on top is the wellness program, with yoga and massages. This cruise the perfect trip for groups of divers and non-divers traveling together.
The boat leaves from Batangas, visiting Apo Reef, famous shipwrecks in Coron, and more. The multiplicity of dives and activities fit into just five days is amazing.
When to go to Apo Reef and Coron
Discovery Palawan makes this trip to Apo Reef and Coron from October to March.
The Discovery Palawan also goes toTubbataha from March to mid-June, but you need to book early because these trips get fully booked up to a year in advance.
How to get to Batangas
I flew to Manila and took a Grab Car from the airport to Batangas. There is a good highway from Manila airport, so depending on traffic, it takes between one and two hours to get there.
The cruise company can book your airport transfer for you to ensure you get to the port in Batangascomfortably.
Tip: Reconfirm the departure port with the cruise company. I first went to Batangas port, only to realize that the boat was leaving from the Bauan government port, which is 20 kilometers further. The only way I could get there was by tricycle, and it was an adventure I would not recommend if you are looking for a comfortable trip.
Boarding the Discovery Palawan
I arrived around lunchtime, and I was very excited about boarding the Discovery Palawan.
Friendly faces were waiting for me and took care of my luggage. It was the first sign of the friendly service that was to come during this five-day cruise. We were showed to our cabin and signed our diving liability releases, and then settled in.
We also met Colin, the cruise director. He was funny and put everyone at ease. He was also incredibly flexible, willing to adjust the schedule to the desiderata of all the passengers. We got to choose the diving times, and the activities in between dives, which gave a bit the feeling of being on a private boat.
Lunch was served on the top deck before we departed, and then we headed out of Batangas Bay. We spent the afternoon setting up our diving gear and relaxing on the deck. All the cruise passengers met outside on the upstairs terrace facing the front of the boat to watch the stunning sunset.
Discovery Palawan Nature Escape: The Boat
The boat is 49 meters long and has 20 cabins. It’s small for a cruise ship, but large for a diving liveaboard, so it has lots of advantages for this kind of trip.
One major advantage of small cruise ships is that they can truly explore the trip’s destinations. It’s easier to disembark for activities, and passengers can get to know each other better as well.
On the other hand, the advantage of a large liveaboard boat is that there’s room for more activities, like yoga and massage, and more activities for non-diving passengers. The Discovery Palawan has a full-time tour leader that takes the non-diving guests to various activities.
The boat was built in 1972 in Holland as a three-masted schooner. It is in an old-style, but it is still very comfortable. There is plenty of lounging area, so it never feels crowded.
On deck 1, there’s an indoor salon that also serves as a camera charging room and as an indoor cinema. The dining room is on deck 2. It is outdoors, so you can enjoy the view and the breeze while you eat.
Deck 3 has a bar with a seating area and both indoor and outdoor areas. My favorite place to relax and enjoy the scenery was in the outdoor bar area. Many of us met up there every evening before dinner to watch the sunsets and the dolphins.
This boat is also great for families as it is large, with plenty of enclosed areas. However, the stairs between the decks are quite steep, so I wouldn’t recommend this boat to people with mobility issues.
The cabins on the Discovery Palawan liveaboard
I stayed in cabin 5, a lower deck cabin with a queen bed. Though the cabin was small, it was mainly white, which helped it feel light and fresh, and it had two portholes that provided plenty of natural light, though the windows don’t open.
The bed was comfortable and had plenty of space to store luggage underneath. Space in the cupboard is limited, so don’t bring too much luggage, especially if you are sharing the cabin.
The rooms are air-conditioned with their own thermostats, so you can adjust the temperature to your liking.
They have ensuite bathrooms that are relatively spacious for a boat. The hot water shower had great pressure, and soap, shampoo, and conditioners were all provided.
The Discovery Palawan is one of the most stable liveaboards I’ve seen, likely because it’s larger than most liveaboards. Some nights when the weather was calm, I’d forget that I was sleeping on a boat!
The boat is great. Some will say it looks a bit old, but it is very comfortable ( except the stairs that were to steep to my taste). What makes the Discovery Palawan special is the quality and friendliness of its staff. In my past trips, I have always found Filipinos to be very hospitable, but the staff on the Discovery Palawan wowed us with another level of outstanding service
The food on the Discovery Palawan liveaboard
I could tell from that very first lunch after boarding that the food was going to be good on this trip. I had mentioned my dietary requirements, and they were incredibly accommodating.
The food is varied, served buffet style, and delicious. Typically the divers would have a light breakfast early, around 6 am, and then a full breakfast after the first dive with the non-divers. After the second dive, we wouldn’t have lunch, then an afternoon snack after the third dive, and finally dinner around 7 pm. Needless to say, we didn’t go hungry!
The full breakfast had a few hot dishes, an omelet station, and bread, cheese, and fruits. Ginger tea was served in addition to tea and coffee.
Lunch and dinner were also buffet style. Salad and vegetable lovers will be happy, there were two or three different salads, and vegetable dishes served every night. There was also a variety of meat and fresh fish.
Most meals were on the top deck’s outdoor dining room. The view and the breeze made these meals great experiences.
We also had two meals on the beach on a remote island, and those were particularly special. On day two, the crew brought all the tables, chairs and buffet to the beach. What an experience to enjoy a delicious lunch on your own private island!
Then on day three, they organized a beach party for us. We went to the beach in time for the sunset. A lot of people did yoga on the beach, but I was feeling lazy that evening and just watched the sunset from the top of a little hill.
The team had an impressive set up with tables, music, and even some party lights. The food was as delightful as it was good-looking. What a special moment!
Discovery Palawan Nature Escape: The Dive sites
The diving itinerary covers some world-famous dive sites. From the inaccessible Apo Reef to the Japanese wrecks of Coron, there are some must-see dives on this cruise.
Apo Reef dive sites
Apo is a beach-fringed island in the middle of nowhere. It’s home to one of the biggest coral reefs in the world. Not many people get to dive here, because it takes around 15 hours by boat to get there. It’s definitely worth the trip, though, and we did three dives at Apo reef.
The first dive was a gently sloping reef that turns into a wall. The coral was relatively small but full of colors. We didn’t see many big fishes except for a white tip shark and a parrotfish. We saw an eel, a few common nudibranchs, and an octopus.
The second dive was a steeper wall going to 50 or 60 meters. Two big white tip sharks were patrolling the area when we started the dive. The wall’s colors were beautiful, with a strong purple tone.
We saw plenty of soft corals, a few nudibranchs, and a turtle to finish the dive. There weren’t many big fishes around, but there was also very little current.
The third dive was on the other side of the island and was quite similar to the first two dives. Visibility was great, and the coral was lovely.
I had heard a lot about Apo reef for the last 15 years and was really looking forward to diving there. It was a great day of diving, but I probably would not rank it as one of the top dive sites in the world, mostly due to the lack of big fishes and large corrals. The biggest fishes we saw were about 30 cm, aside from the sharks and the bump head parotfish. Apo Reef is technically a protected area where fishing is not allowed, but that doesn’t seem to be respected. The number of fishes was much lower than in places like Misol in Raja Ampat, Palau, or even Bohol in the Philippines.
Diving Coron: Famous Wrecks and a Reef
Our next destination was Coron Bay, and we visited several famous shipwrecks in this area, along with a reef.
Kogyo Maru shipwreck dive site
Kyogo Maru is an auxiliary supply ship. It was built in 1927 and sank in 1944. It is over 100 meters long.
The wreck starts at 34 meters. You can navigate towards the hull, and go inside the wreck at the center. The hull is full of cabbage corals with crocodile fish, scorpionfish, stonefish, and more.
Tip: Visibility is often poor, so make sure you keep your diving group in sight.
Olympia Baru shipwreck dive site
This wreck goes to 30 meters. The ships is upright, sitting in the seabed. We swam through the cargo space, and saw a lot of lionfish, as well as batfish, a giant pufferfish, and even two crocodile fish mating.
Okikawa Maru shipwreck dive site
This was my favorite of the three wrecks we dove in Coron. There was an impressive number of fishes around the wreck. For macro photography lovers, there were plenty of nudibranchs and stunning soft corals. This, combined with the spectacular landscapes of the wreck, made it a stunning dive.
Diving twin peaks near Coron
After diving the three wrecks around Coron, it was also nice to see a reef. Twin peaks is a mix of a wall and a gently sloping reef. It surrounds two small islands that look like peaks, and that’s where the dive site gets its name.
The reef was colorful, with lots of small fishes and nudibranchs. Some sections of the reef were in good condition, with nice soft corals, but other sections had many bleached and broken corals.
There was no current, and it was a very easy and relaxing dive.
Diving at Barracuda Lake
The final site on the cruise had a different kind of diving. Barracuda lake is a soft water lake with super warm water. It starts at 29 degrees at the surface and reached 40 degrees as we went down to 27 meters. The lake is named for barracudas that used to live there. Don’t get too excited: we didn’t see any on our dive.
There’s not too much to see in the lake. We saw a few catfish, shrimps, and shells. It was still a very fun dive as we played with the thermoclines and the difference in temperature.
Tip: There’s no need to wear a wetsuit if you dive at Baracuda lake. You can also remove a few weights from your weight belt as it is soft water.
The lake is behind some majestic limestone cliffs. The view all around is spectacular.
Dive Organization
Even though the boat can carry many more, there were only seven passengers on this trip, as many had canceled following the appearance of the coronavirus.
With only five people diving, we had one group accompanied by two divemasters. The dive briefing was held in the outdoor dining room upstairs. Then we’d get dressed and head down to the boat.
The diving crew was incredibly helpful and took care of loading all our equipment, including fins and cameras. All we had to do was jump into the boat. It was a truly five-star service.
Having two divemasters in our group was also great, as one of the divemasters could surface earlier with the people running low on air.
Tip: During the whole trip, the water temperature was around 27 degrees, so a 3 millimeters wetsuit is enough for this itinerary.
Other Activities on the Discovery Palawan
The Discovery Palawan Nature Escape cruise offers a lot more than diving and is, therefore, a perfect option for groups including divers and non-divers. Non-diving guests did a lot of kayaking and snorkeling in beautiful landscapes. Even the diving group got to do extra activities in between dives.
Exploring Apo reef island
While at Apo reef, we went to visit the island. It felt like a private island, as we were the only people on it. We discovered a pristine white beach.
The walk through the mangroves to the lagoon was peaceful and beautiful. We were surrounded by the sounds of nature: birds, branches cracking, and waves. We were told that blacktip sharks can often be seen in that lagoon, but we didn’t see them on that day.
The passengers participating in the wellness program were doing yoga on the beach. One of them was having a massage while listening to the waves. Total bliss!
The crew prepared a huge buffet lunch on the beach. Tables were set up, and they even installed a bar. It was spectacular.
After a prodigious lunch, we hiked to the lighthouse. The views from up there are stunning. It was a clear day, and we could see the lagoon and all the way to Palawan.
Soaking in Maquinit hot springs
Our trip also included a visit to a hot spring. We got to soak in a beautiful pool by the mangroves and the sea. The temperature in the pool ranged from 38 to 40 degrees. What a great way to end a diving trip to relax those sore muscles!
Tip: Look in the mangrove trees. We saw five night herons there.
The wellness program on the Discovery Palawan
In addition to diving and exploration, the Discovery Palawan also offers a wellness program.
While on board, I did two yoga classes and got a massage. The massage felt heavenly, as my body was getting tired from doing three dives a day.
The yoga sessions were also great. They were held at the front of the boat during sunset. What a spectacular setting! Our instructor, Camille, was amazing, and she got us to totally relax through a mix of meditation, asanas, and yin yoga postures.
We finished in time for sundowner drinks to end our day.
Conclusion
Our days were very busy with 3 dives, plenty of sightseeing, yoga, and massage. Each night, we would go to sleep exhausted but contented with plenty of great memories in our head.
The Nature Escape cruise offered by Discovery Palawan is a short but very enjoyable trip, taking you to remote paradisiac islands. It is great for divers as well as for non-divers, and I highly recommend it if you are looking for a short escape in Southeast Asia. You might also want to extend your trip in Palawan for a few days.
For more travel inspiration in the Philippines, read my review of diving in Bohol and the Donatela Luxury resort
The post The ultimate diving relaxation break on the Discovery Palawan Nature Escape Cruise appeared first on Luxury travel Inspiration.
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Little know way to discover Indonesia best dive sites
An October cruise from Ambon to Sorong is an incredible opportunity to dive some of the most exciting sites in the Indonesian ( and the world?) in a single trip. From the mesmerizing muck diving in Ambon to the hammerhead sharks in the Banda sea to prodigious reefs of Misool in Raja Ampat. This is Luxury Travel did this trip on the Ilike liveaboard, and it is a divers’ dream. Read on for the full story on the itinerary, a review of the Ilike boat and practical tips for your liveaboard in Indonesia
The itinerary on the diving liveaboard from Ambon to Sorong.
Our cruise from Ambon to Sorong was a 12-night itinerary, visiting some of the most incredible diving destinations in Indonesia. Here I’ll detail the itinerary day by day. It is worth knowing that itineraries on cruises in Indonesia are always weather dependent. On any route, you are likely to hit bad weather for a few days with strong waves and currents. Boats keep their itineraries flexible to provide the best diving experience during the trip. This was the itinerary for our trip; if you go (which I highly recommend), yours may be a little different, but you’ll definitely see some amazing destinations and diving action.
Day 1: Arrival in Ambon
Our first day was our arrival in Ambon. It was a lazy day, as all the guests arrived at a different time. We had a chance to settle in on the boat and watch the sunset over Ambon.
It also gave all the people flying from Europe a chance to adjust to the time difference and recover from their long flight.
Day 2: Incredible Muck Diving in Ambon
The second day was all about diving. We started early, with two dives in Laha Bay. People don’t come here for the views or the beach, as the bay is quite polluted. It is, however, a diver’s paradise. It is quite incredible to have such rich dive sites so close to town. I have been to many of the places for muck diving in Indonesia, including Lembeh, Tulamben, and Sangean. Ambon still remains my favorite.
Dive site: Laha, Ambon Bay
Ambon is slowly becoming known as one of the best places in the world for muck diving.
The dive site in Laha bay has a sloping sandy bottom that becomes murkier as you go down. Most critters are between 5 and 12 meters, so there is no need to go very deep.
There are plenty of frogfishes, squids, cuttlefishes, and rhinopias. We also saw cowfishes, plenty of nudibranchs and ghost pipefishes.
TIP: As it is a sandy bottom, try not to kick the sand at the bottom to maintain excellent visibility as you dive.
After this first dive, we navigated southeast for two hours to an isolated village called Ukirula for our next dive.
Dive site: Ukirula Cave
The dive site is of a small peninsula, just to the right of the beach.
There is a cave around 7 meters that has two exit points at 15 to 25 meters. We went through the cave from top to bottom and continued on to the wall.
It is a beautiful dive site that has a lot of nudibranchs, scorpionfishes, and moray eels. While it is not as spectacular as Laha Bay for small critters, the topography of the dive site is lovely, with the unique cave and lots of sea fans.
Day 3: Exploring the Remote Nusa Laut Island
On day three, we woke up in Nusa Laut, a round-shaped island with excellent diving. As this place is mostly unknown as a dive site, I was not expecting anything and was totally impressed. The number of fishes was phenomenal.
Nusa Laut is a very isolated place with a few churches, but a pleasant surprise was that they did have a telecom tower (hello internet)!
Dive site: Ameth Knoll in Nusa Laut
Ameth knoll is a submerged sloping reef with multiple levels. The west side goes down to a sandy bottom. The right side is a deep wall going down below 50 meters. This dive site is big enough to do multiple dives, and we ended up diving it three times.
The hard-coral reef is at its most amazing at around 15 meters. Along with the beautiful corals, the amount of fishes passing by is staggering. Watch out at the corner, as big fishes can pass by.
After diving, we got to visit the village of Ameth. It was nice to get back on land to stretch our legs and see a village in this part of the world. The village is impressively clean with lots of flowers around the houses. The population was very welcoming, with “hello hello” coming from many homes.
On our way back to the boat, we came across a group of very active dolphins. They were putting on an acrobatic show for us, it seemed. It lasted for over 30 minutes and was the perfect backdrop for our sunset drinks.
Day 4: Looking for Hammerheads at Run Island
We navigated most of the night though stormy weather and substantial rain. The waves were sizeable, so it was a rough night. Amazingly, we woke up at Run island to a quiet sea and sunny weather. If you have to have bad weather, it’s not too bad to have it during overnight navigation.
The Banda sea is becoming an increasingly popular destination to see schools of hammerheads. Hammerheads hang out in Banda from the end of September to early December. October is usually the best month to see them here.
Being there at the end of October, we were very hopeful that we’d get to meet those sea giants, and our two planned dives in Run would be our best chances.
Dive site: Tanjung Norett at Run Island
Tanjung means corner in Indonesian. As can be expected from its name, Tanjung Norett is the corner at the eastern tip of the island.
The shallow part of this dive site is a mix of sand and coral bommies. At 8 to 10 meters, it becomes a very steep wall that goes down to over 100 meters.
The wall is nice but not exceptional, so there main reason people dive here is for a chance to see hammerheads. On our first dive, everyone in our group saw two hammerheads, except for me. But I did see a few other big fishes like tunas and barracudas.
Fortunately, we were staying in Banda for two more days of diving, so I would have more chances to see the famous hammerheads.
Day 5: Discovering the History of Banda Neira
A liveaboard cruise onboard Ilike is not only about diving, but also discovering interesting places above the water. On the morning of day five, we got to visit Banda Neira and learn about its historical significance.
Banda was the epicenter of the spice islands, producing cloves and nutmeg. The Netherlands and the UK fought over it to control the spice market.
The Netherlands even exchanged Run Island for Manhattan in 1677. You can find out more about that story here.
We visited the historical town with all its pretty colonial houses, visited the museum and saw the fort.
The view from the top of the fort was spectacular.
We then continued to a nutmeg plantation where we had breakfast and got to try the local delicacies.
The tour of the local market was fun. The crew bought a fresh fish at the market that we had for dinner, which was great. We also stoped by a school and received a very warm welcome from the students
If you go to the Banda islands, make sure you visit the town of Banda Neira, as it is one of the most interesting towns in Indonesia.
TIP: Don’t forget to bring back some nutmeg. They are super tasty and make for great presents at home.
Dive site: Batu Kapal near Banda Neira
Batu Kapal is a rock sticking out above the water. There is a vast plateau at about 5 meters that has delicate corals and sea fans, and two more pinnacles at 12 and 15 meters.
Most of the pelagic hang out in the upside corner. There are tunas and big jacks here as well. Hammerheads are often patrolling the area, but we didn’t see them on this dive.
This site has lots of fishes, but the coral was pretty broken down. Not the best dive site compared to others on this trip, but overall not bad at all.
Day 6: Finally Meeting Hammerheads at Suangi Seamount!
I was starting to worry that we would not see hammerheads despite diving in the Banda sea in October.
Suangi (also called Manukan) is a rock formation in the middle of nowhere. It is a 2-hour boat ride from Banda Neira, so the boat departed when we were still sleeping. It was fun to see that even though the Ilike boat left after many other boats in Banda Neira, we were the first to arrive in Suangi. The Ilike is fast, which is great because it gives you a lot more time at the dive sites. Suangi Seamount looked spectacular. Our early arrival allowed us to witness the sunrise, with hundreds of birds flying around.
There were brown footed booby and frigate birds that birdwatchers would travel a long way to see.
Dive site: Suangi Seamount
Suangi is a big rock that sticks out of the water. It is definitely the place to be in October, and there were eight other boats around us!
Fortunately, we started early and were the first group underwater, so we had the whole dive site to ourselves and no one to scare the sharks away.
There are two parts to this dive site. The first one starts around the island, with a shallow reef at 5 meters, then a steep wall that goes all the way to 25 meters.
The second part, where most of the action is, is on the nearby submerged pinnacle starting at a depth of 15 meters.
There were so many fishes, including vast schools of tuna that were hunting the fusiliers, which moved in and out in a flash.
A large group of hammerheads came to check us out and stayed with us for most of the dive. It was my first time seeing them, and wow, they are big! It was definitely worth the wait!
Hammerheads are often seen here in October and November. We saw about 10 of them, but people sometimes see hundreds passing by the Suangi Seamount dive site.
Beside the hammerheads, there was so much fish action going on that I barely looked at the coral. I saw a Marlin fish, among others.
This dive requires negative entry to ensure you find the pinnacle spit, as this is where the big pelagic hang out. Overall, it’s one of the best dive sites ever, and we got to dive it three times!
What an incredible day, diving with those giants.
TIP: Bring your reef hook for this dive, as the current can be fierce.
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Day 7: Diving the Healthy Reef at Koon island
We arrived in paradise looking Koon and were escorted by dolphins and marlins. Koon is a palm-fringed tropical island with a sandy beach.
Koon Island is an exciting place, as it is located between three seas: the Banda Sea, the Arafura Sea, and the Seram sea. Not many people get to dive here because it is remote, and it requires a special permit.
Dive site: North Koon
This place is nicknamed “too many fishes,” and it is easy to see why. Schools of fishes are everywhere. The dive site is protected by the village from overfishing, and they do a great job.
The northern part is a steep wall. A bit further up, there is a sandy patch in the middle with beautiful coral bommies. The whole place is very scenic. There are usually a lot of currents here, and the site often requires negative entry and a reef hook if you want to stay in the corners where most of the fishes hang out.
We saw big groups of snappers, barracudas, and trevallies. We also saw large groupers and Napoleon. The vast schools of batfishes were dreamlike.
The place was also first-class for macro shooting, with octopuses, leaf fishes, blue-ribbon eels, scorpionfishes, and more.
Visibility wasn’t excellent on the day we were there, but it was a fantastic dive definitely worth seeing.
Day 8: First Glimpse of the Astonishing Diving at Misool in Raja Ampat
Our eighth day was an exiting one. We arrived in Daram, the southern part of Misool, which in my opinion offers some of the best diving in the world. The area has healthy reefs and an incredible number and variety of fishes.
I actually ended up being a bit underwhelmed by the two dives we did in Daram, the southern part of Misool.
Dive site: Warna Berwarna
Its name means “vivid color” in Indonesian. There is a prominent limestone rock over the surface. What makes this dive site unique is the soft corals in vibrant orange, purple, and yellow. You’ll also see some huge sea fans. We found plenty of pygmy seahorses in those sea fans as well.
Dive site: Andiamo
This dive site is created by two small islands that are surrounded by a big reef. There is a channel at 5-7 meters between the islands.
This site is relatively similar to Warna Bewarna, with millions of fishes and beautiful soft corals. We again saw plenty of pygmy seahorses and even an orangutan crab.
After this dive, we navigated further south, to central Misool, and this was when we had some truly amazing dives.
Dive site: Yiliet
This dive site has a romantic name: Romeo is the big island, and Yiliet is the small one nearby. This dive site has a startling shallow plateau and an incredible number of fishes, as I expected to see in Misool. There is usually a school of barracudas in the shallows.
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Day 9: Fun in Central Misool
Central Misool is, in my opinion, the core of Raja Ampat. Beyond offering beautiful dive sites, there is a booking system in place so that only one group is allowed to dive a particular site at a time. This makes for uncrowded dives and the chance to really experience everything.
TIP: If you book a cruise in Raja Ampat, make sure it spends a few days in Misool. It is the most beautiful area of the park. Many of the budget boats don’t cover Misool because it is more remote, so it costs more in petrol to get there.
Dive site: Shadow Reef
Shadow Reef is one of the best dive sites in the world, partly because of its topography, but mostly for the massive amount of fishes you can see there.
It is a submerged pinnacle. The shallowest part is at 5 meters and has a manta cleaning station. There is another cleaning station on the opposite side, which is about 20 meters down. The two extremities are connected by a beautiful ridge full of corals.
It is always an adventure to dive there. I have seen mantas, both reef and oceanic, countless sharks, and tons of fish action. If you are lucky, you can witness the big fishes hunting.
We saw a few dolphins from the boat above the dive site but unfortunately didn’t see them again once we were in the water.
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Dive site: Boo’s Window
Boo’s Window is another iconic Misool and Raja Ampat dive site. It’s another limestone island, with two holes in the cliff forming the “window.” The two parts of the island are connected by a ridge that is 7 to 10 meters deep.
This dive site has everything: a massive amount of fishes, sharks, and lots of nudibranchs. A colossal oceanic manta even came over to say hi!
My descriptions can’t really do those sites justice, so make sure you watch my videos. They were done in a single dive using a simple GoPro.
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We visited the Misool ranger’s station for sunset. It is on a beautiful white sand beach with turquoise water full of baby sharks. It was a great place to spend the evening.
Day10: More Amazing Dives in Misool
Any day diving in Misool is a fantastic day, and our third day in the area didn’t disappoint.
Dive site: Boo Ridge East
This is the big island next to Boo Window.
The wall is nice, but the corals are not as amazing as in other parts of Raja Ampat. The number of fishes was quite limited when we dove it, but we saw a leopard shark within 5 minutes of going down! A few blacktip sharks were also patrolling the area. Three types of pygmy seahorses can be found here, and it was easy to spot all of them.
For the last ten minutes of our dive, we had a manta that stayed with us, which was the perfect ending for the day. She was getting cleaned on the corner so there must be a cleaning station there.
This site had some of the strongest currents that we experienced in Misool, including some down current.
Overall, it was a fantastic dive full of life.
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Dive site Nudi Rock
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Day 11: Moving to Northern Misool
As we traveled to Northern Misool, we could see that this part of the park is less well-protected. We encountered a fisherman and noticed that there weren’t nearly as many fishes as there had been in central Misool.
Dive site: Goa Farondi
Goa Farondi is interesting because of its topography. It contains an underwater cave that starts at 2 meters and goes down to 25 meters. The rest of the dive is a wall that goes down to 40 meters.
At 10 meters, there is a nice hard coral garden that is full of shrimps. While it wasn’t as vibrant as other sites, it was still a nice dive.site: Eddy cave Farondi
The diving here is very different from the rest of Misool. All the corals and fishes have pastel colors: orange, pink, light blue, light green… even the scorpionfishes are white. It is a perfect place to find the blue devil nudibranch.
The topography is interesting as well. There is a dome at 3 or 4 meters. Once you go in, there is a chamber inside the mountain where you can breathe fresh air. There is another smaller dome after the first cave that has some electric clams.
The current was very hectic when we dove it, and the visibility was poor.
After diving, we visited a deserted lagoon. What a majestic place! Imagine shallow turquoise water surrounded by enormous limestone cliffs covered by trees.
It is so peaceful: you can only hear the sound of the water and the birds. The setting sun created various shadows. The smell of the trees was quite strong, a bit similar to eucalyptus. This is a place where you can relax all your senses and feel at one with nature.
Day 12: Visiting Penemu Lagoon, the Most Famous Location in Raja Ampat
We continued north, toward Northern Raja Ampat, and visited a few nice dive sites.
Dive site: Keruo Channel
This dive site is a channel between two islands. Depending on where you are in the drift, it is a mix between a wall and a sloping reef. We encountered a gentle current here. This dive seemed a bit tame after the great dives we did around Misool in the last few days.
They usually are Wobegon at the bottom, but we didn’t see any.
TIP: To find the Wobegon sharks, look for covered areas (under corals or rocks) where there are many glass fishes.
Dive site: Melissa’s Garden
Melissa’s Garden dive site is composed of three small islands forming a shallow turquoise.
It is one of Raja Ampat’s most famous dive sites because of the phenomenal amount of hard corals. There are a few ridges in the south part of the reef that go to 20 meters. The hard-coral plateau is surrounded by sand.
We saw a few blacktips and a white tip shark passing by in the sand. There are schools of sweetlips and fusiliers. While the hard corals were terrific, there weren’t as many fishes, likely due to the presence of a village nearby.
Three giant clams have been there for over a century: definitely keep an eye out for them.
Dive site: Batu RufusThis dive site is by an island that has an interior lagoon. It starts with a coral garden that becomes a ridge. The ridge goes down to 30 meters. This dive site blew me away with the colors of its soft corals. It felt like it had been painted by very talented artists.
In the afternoon, we took a gentle hike to the viewpoint of Penumu’s Lagoon. We were then rewarded by one of the most beautiful sunsets of the whole trip. What a pleasure to watch it with a drink from the top deck of Ilike!
Day 13: Our Last Day in Raja Ampat
The twelfth day was our last day to dive, and it went by so quickly! We did two dives before making our way back to Sorong.
Dive site: Blue Magic
Blue Magic is probably the most popular dive site in Raja Ampat, and it is easy to see why. There is a manta cleaning station here. It is a submerged seamount a bit like the shadow reef dive site. The top is at 11 meters, and the seamount goes down to 30 meters. It requires a negative entry to dive in the upside current. The schools of fishes and the action on this dive site make it a truly exhilarating experience.
Dive site: Cape Kri
This dive site is off the peninsula of Kri island. There is a shallow plateau at the beginning, and the slope is steep, going down to 30 meters.
This site is famous for schools of fishes, including schools of Barracudas. Beware of this dive site: the current can be fierce. We did experience some mighty currents, probably a bit more than we bargained for.
I am pretty sure we will never forget this last dive at Cape Kri!
We then departed for five hours of navigation back to our final destination: Sorong. We cruised past beautiful islands. The sunset was yet again spectacular, and the last cocktails with all the other passengers gave us the chance to remind ourselves of the great moments we experienced during this phenomenal cruise.
The Ilike boat review on the cruise from Ambon to Raja Ampat
Ilike is a Belgian liveaboard company that I grew to love. I have already done a few trips with them and always return with great pleasure. This is my fifth trip on Ilike, and I have reviewed the boat in detail in this article. Check it out.
The staff is very experienced, and the boat has been build to do those types of long expeditions.
The cabins are not the most luxurious at sea ( see below), but the boat has ample common space. So introverted people can always find a quiet place to relax. The boat is set up for professional underwater photographers with charging stations and a large camera table, so it tends to attract very advanced divers. The dive deck is one of the largest of the boats in Indonesia, making it easy to dress up before a dive.
The dining area is open onto the sea. What a great place to have breakfast watching the sunrise over the water!
What cabin to choose on Ilike liveaboard?
If you are wondering what type of cabins to chose on the Ilike, read here for the suite, here for the standard cabin and here for the budget cabin. There are basically no bad cabins on Ilike, but the more you are willing to pay, the better the cabin is, so it is really up to you.
TIP: if you get easily seasick, try and get a cabin at the back of the boat
The service on Ilike liveaboard
As usual, the service was truly outstanding. The food is tasty, the boat is immaculate. But what makes Ilike unique is the constant smile of the crew and the attention to detail. From getting a fresh warm towel after every dive to warm chocolate after the night dive to the help putting on your wetsuit, the crew is always on the lookout for ways to assist us. It is easy to become lazy while onboard. Not only are they helpful, but you can also see that there is a pleasant atmosphere in the crew.
The food onboard ilike liveaboard
Ilike liveaboard is lucky to have Gibbon, a very experienced chef who has worked all across the Pacific ocean, to prepare the meals. You can see him all day in his well-equipped kitchen, chopping, mixing, and baking.
He cooks a mix of western and Indonesian food and is very talented in using spices.
Breakfast is a la carte. Lunch is usually a buffet with a choice of 4 or 5 dishes. The dinner was a bit more formal. The table is set with candles and table cloths for the 3-course meal.
On this cruise, we enjoyed Tuna, Mahi Mahi, pizza, beef with pepper sauce, arancini meatballs, Mexican tacos, Mousaka, plenty of pasta, and the list goes on.
The passengers on our Ilike cruise from Ambon to Sorong
We were 11 passengers on this trip ( and 15 crew so we were pampered by the attentive team)
Most of the passengers came from Europe. Swiss, Belgium, and Spain were the main countries. All the divers were very experienced. With 500 dives, I was one of the juniors. A lady was celebrating her 7500 dives!
3 snorkelers also joined us. They were happier with the snorkel in Raja Ampat than Ambon and the Banda sea. It was overall, a great group.
How to get to Ambon and Sorong
There are currently no international flights to Ambon or Sorong, so you’ll still need to connect in either Bali or Jakarta. Both Ambon and Sorong are a direct flight away from Jakarta, so relatively easy to get to. Air Asia started operating a new flight from Jakarta to Sorong, and it is currently the cheaper option.
If you are coming from Bali, you will need to connect overnight in Makassar
TIP: the Ibis Airport hotel is located within the airport, so it is a great place to sleep during the few hours between the 2 flights. It is affordable, and you can find the best rate on hotel combined by clicking here. They compare the rates of all booking agents and always find you the best one.
TIP: At the time of writing, Garuda allows 23 kg of diving equipment as free extra luggage, making it the best choice of airline for divers in Indonesia. If the schedule doesn’t work, then Air Asia is my second favorite choice
The Lionair flight might look cheaper, but if you have diving gears and a lot of luggage, it will end up being very expensive. If you are thinking of booking Lionair ( Wing and Batik are also part of Lionair) because it looks cheaper, do read my review on why I will not fly Lion air Here.
TIP: Liveaboards usually do 2 dives on the morning of the last day, so any flights after 1 pm should work for you and allow you to have your safety 24 hours interval between diving and flights.
If you plan to spend some time in Sorong, read my article about what to do in Sorong here
And if you plan to spend more time in Ambon, read my article about diving in Ambon here.
Internet and phone signal on the cruise from Ambon to Sorong
If you want internet access during your cruise, buy a Telekomcel card with a data package upon arrival. Some places now ask a copy of your passport to register the card, so you might want to bring a photocopy.
Ambon has excellent 4 G coverage allowing you to even stream video.
Ukirulula village and Nusa Laut also had good coverage. Not always strong enough for data calls but good enough for emails and WhatsApp.
TIP: Sometimes, the 3G connection works better than 4G, so check the settings on your phone and try them both.
On day 4, we had no connection while cruising around Run, one of the banda island, despite seeing a mobile phone tower not too far from us.
Banda Neira had excellent internet. Enough for WhatsApp phone calls
There is no internet near the Suangi seamount.
The whole Misool area has no internet coverage, but I was able to get a GSM signal in some parts and send SMS or do phone calls.
In Raja Ampat, near Cape Kri or Mellissa’s garden, there is internet available. Enough for messages and emails but not for calls or files download.
Sorong Bay has good phone coverage to end your trip.
TIP: The signal gets better, the higher you get on the boat. It would often not work in my cabin below deck but would work on the top deck.
Conclusion of my diving liveaboard from Ambon to Sorong
A diving cruise from Ambon to Sorong is one of the best itineraries a diver could wish for. You get the small critters in Ambon, the big pelagics in the Banda Sea, and the fantastic reefs and schools of fishes in Raja Ampat. It would be hard to do a better and more diverse itinerary. In October, as a bonus, you have the possibility of diving with schools of hammerheads in the Banda Sea. The ilike liveaboard is a great boat and perfectly designed to handle those long exploration trips. Don’t miss this cruise, and make sure you book early as this itinerary in October is often fully booked a year in advance.
Happy diving!
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5 Things You Need to Know Before a Safari to Lewa Conservancy and Lewa house
To travel into the Lewa Conservancy is to journey into the heart of nature in all its raw beauty.
Lewa house offers elegant accommodations, an unbelievable safari experience, and delicious food. But above all, by staying there, you will be contributing to the local conservation efforts to protect endangered species. Read on for my review of Lewa house.
1. Lewa is easy to access from Nairobi
Lewa Conservancy is located in the center of Kenya, in Isiolo. It is about a 5-hour drive from Nairobi.
The easiest way to reach Lewa is to fly directly from Wilson Airport in Nairobi, with SafariLink or Air Kenya, which offer daily scheduled flights to the Conservancy. There are also occasional flights from the Masai Mara. Lewa is also near Ol Malo Lodge, which can be accessed with a small private plane, so it’s easy to combine a trip to Lewa and Ol Malo. For my review of Ol Malo, read here
Lewa Conservancy has its own airstrip for small planes, and the drive from the Lewa airstrip to Lewa House is about 20 minutes. It took us a bit longer, as our guide merged the trip with a short game drive. Within 30 minutes of landing, we had already seen a herd of elephants, Grevy zebras, reticulated giraffes, and three rhinoceros!
2. The accommodation at Lewa house is simply elegant
Lewa House is the best option for your stay in the Lewa Conservancy. It is the oldest accommodation in the Conservancy. It exudes charm and sophistication. The boutique lodge is surrounded by beautiful savannahs opposite Mount Kenya. The lodge has the most beautiful views. All in all, Lewa house provides a fantastic wildlife experience to its guests.
The main house at Lewa House
Lewa House is composed of the main house, which includes the restaurant, a relaxing lounge, and a pretty garden with a pool.
There is a massive fireplace in the main house that was a lovely spot to enjoy drinks before dinner. It is surprisingly chilly at night, so congregating by the fire was a special moment and an enjoyable place to meet the other guests staying at Lewa House.
Review of the bedrooms at Lewa house
The rooms are scattered around the property, in cute little cottages. The cottages are built using traditional Lewa architecture techniques, with rough stone walls and thatched roofs.
We stayed in one of the family cottages. It was perfect for two people traveling together but would also be ideal for family of four. Our Cottage had a double and twin room, each with an en-suite bathroom.
The beds were comfortable and had mosquito nets. The furniture was homely and made of natural materials like wood and stones. The attention to detail was incredible, and everything was beautifully made.
Free laundry was provided during our stay. It took less than 24 hours for our clothes to be returned.
In front of the two bedrooms, we had a large verandah where we could relax after the day’s activities. It was a peaceful spot, with a great view.
Lewa House is surrounded by an electric fence to keep the animals at bay. They also recommend getting an escort from the main house to your room at night, as some animals sometimes manage to find a way into the compound. It happened when we were there: an elephant found its way in and was happily eating in Lewa House’s organic garden!
Sustainability at Lewa House
Lewa House cares deeply about sustainability. That is apparent in the way the house is run. From their buildings using mostly local material, to the harvesting of rainwater, and solar panels for hot water and electricity, they have made sustainable design choices wherever possible.
Lewa House also composts food waste and reduces plastic use. You won’t find plastic bottles here. We received reusable metal water bottles during our game drives.
Internet access at Lewa House
There is good internet access in the main lounge, but not in the bedrooms.
3. The food is fresh and locally produced
Lewa house is surrounded by a great vegetable and herb garden. Most of the food is local and is very fresh and tasty. The chefs prepared sophisticated meals combining European, Kenyan, and Asian cuisine. It was truly delicious.
The dining room has a distinctly British feel, and food was served family-style, with all the guests gathering around a large table. We felt like guests of the family, and dinner gave everyone the opportunity to hear local stories from Sophie, Francine and Callums, our hosts, and also to share our day’s adventures with other guests.
The meals for both lunch and dinner included an appetizer, a main course, and dessert. The chef was very responsive to my dietary requirements and adjusted my meal as needed.
Breakfast was served buffet-style in the pretty garden, offering a stunning view of the water holes, with elephants and zebras passing by.
4. Game drives are uncrowded and spectacular
Lewa House is located in a private conservancy. Being in a conservancy usually means fewer cars and tourists, and it also gives guests the opportunity to do game drives at night.
We did a game drive every morning and every evening, as this is the time when the animals are most active. The game drives here were exhilarating. Our driver, David, was highly professional and qualified. The conservancy has a great variety of wildlife, including rhinos, zebras, big cats, and more.
Lewa House uses a Land Rover with 3 rows of seats for its drives. We were sharing the car with another couple from England. It was my first time in a safari car with 3 rows, and I found it uncomfortable. If you are tall, the space between rows is just not big enough for your legs. That didn’t prevent us from having an excellent safari drive, but I was happy that the car was not loaded up to its full capacity of 6 people.
TIP: Most cars in the Masai Mara now pack 3 rows of seats (even the luxury camps), so check that when you book your camp. You will spend hours in that car, so you might as well make sure it is comfortable. In Masai Mara, we stayed at the Tangulia Mara camp, and they had comfortable 2-row cars.
The landscape is stunning. With the salt marsh, cliffs, and small rivers crossing the conservancy, the scenery is mesmerizing.
We saw so many rhinos that we actually stopped getting excited about seeing them. We even saw a baby rhino that seemed to be talking to a baby elephant. Our group watched their interaction for over 20 minutes. It was clear that the babies wanted to play together, but the parents didn’t seem convinced. The big male elephant was watching the situation closely!
Chasing Lions and Leopards
On our last drive, we went looking for a lion family. We tracked them, following their dung and tracks. It was almost sunset, and we were close to giving up when our guide David got a call from one of the rangers who said that they’d seen a leopard.
We set off on a mad and exhilarating drive on the dirt road to reach the leopard. It was very close to the road. It came so close to our car that we could have touched it (and the vehicles at Lewa House are totally open, so we actually could have, if we wanted to risk losing a hand). He stayed nearby, posing for photos for a short moment, and then went off stalking into the nearby woods. The alert noise made by the impalas was loud and scary: imagine listening to a broken radio with the volume way up. A hyena showed up as well, sensing an upcoming kill. What a thrilling moment!
After all that excitement, we had a quick sundowner drink (in the car, since the Leopard was still hunting nearby). Our group made it back happily to Lewa House for dinner, where we had great stories to share.
Another highlight of staying at Lewa House is the archaeological tour offered by Callum. The archaeological remains found in Lewa Conservancy are some of Kenya’s best archaeological sites outside the Rift Valley. We visited the tool factory, and Callum gave us a passionate introduction to early human history.
5. You contribute to the financing of the Lewa Conservancy and preserving endangered species
Lewa is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it has some of the best game viewings in the whole of East Africa. By choosing to visit Lewa, you’re contributing to the conservation effort. The park fee included in the cost of your stay goes to the conservancy. Lewa House is working to keep the endangered species safe. The local community immensely supports animal conservancy. While we were there, we saw more patrol cars than tourist cars.
The Lewa Conservancy is showing excellent results in protecting endangered species:
14% of Kenya’s rhinos live in Lewa Conservancy. They had 14 newborn rhinos in 2017, and no-poaching since 2013.
12% of the world’s Grevy’s zebra population lives in Lewa. In the late 1970s, over 15,000 Grevy’s zebra roamed in the wild. Hunting and poaching drastically reduced the population over the years, and the 2016 Great Grevy’s census results indicated that Kenya is now home to 2,350 Grevy’s zebras, 90% of the world’s population.
Conclusion
Lewa conservancy might be the best place in Kenya to see rhinos. Lewa House is an enchanted location, offering mouthwatering food and beautiful cottages. Sophie, Francine, and Collum are incredible hosts that have created a gem of a place that you will find hard to leave.
For more amazing lodges to plan your trip in Kenya, check my reviews of Ol Malo lodge, the Emakoko in Nairobi and Tangulia Mara in the Masai Mara.
Happy safari!
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Ol Malo Lodge: the best Kenya safari lodge you’ve never heard of
Ol Malo Lodge is the ultimate private safari camp. With only four rooms sharing 5000 acres of private conservancy, you are unlikely to see another car while on a game drive. Get ready for a sophisticated and bespoke experience. Unlike other camps, there is no schedule for visiting the park. You do what you want when you want to. Each luxurious bungalow has its own full-time guide and private vehicle, so every guest can tailor their own adventure.
Getting to Ol Malo Lodge
Ol Malo is located north of Mount Kenya. It is a very remote area occupied by nomadic tribes. Ol Malo has their own landing strip, but you’ll need to book your own private plane to fly in, as they don’t have regularly-scheduled flights. We were staying at Lewa House before heading to Ol Malo, and we were easily able to get a private plane. It is a very short plane ride, so those two lodges are an excellent combination for your safari itinerary. Here’s a review of our stay at Lewa House. It took us about 20 minutes to arrive. The plane was tiny, with space for three people plus the pilot. I got to sit next to the pilot and felt as if I were piloting the plane myself. It was a fun and very scenic ride!
Once you land, it’s only a five-minute drive to the Ol Malo Lodge.
Alternately, if you don’t want to ride in a small private plane, you can fly to Loisoba airstrip. They have a direct flight from Wilson Airport in Nairobi. The Loisoba airstrip is a 40-minute scenic drive from Ol Malo lodge, and the flight time is approximately one hour.
Bush & Beyond, the travel agent that books Ol Malo, can help you organize all your plane transfers.
Review of the rooms at Ol Malo lodge
Ol Malo Lodge has only four bedrooms, making it a very intimate camp. The rooms are super impressive and would put most luxury hotels to shame.
I was staying in room number 3, near the swimming pool. It is a massive suite with two floors. There is a personal veranda near the entrance.
The bedroom is located upstairs and has large windows facing the cliff. The view is breathtaking!
There is a watering hole down below, where we saw many animals like elephants or zebra going for a drink. The room is designed with a lot of natural materials like stone and wood. The attention to details is astonishing.
Tip: A leopard can often be seen in the early morning in the tree near the watering hole, so be sure to look as soon as you wake up. We saw it on our third day!
The bed is enormous and comfortable.
The bathroom is remarkable, with a stone bathtub and another huge glass window opening up to the cliff view.
But if you like baths, you will be enchanted by the outdoor heart-shaped tub!
There is electricity and hot water 24 hours a day thanks to solar panels. There’s nothing better than a relaxing bath after a safari trip.
Tip: Taking a bubble bath while watching all the animals down below is an unforgettable moment. I felt like I could have stayed in that bathtub forever!
Activities at Ol Malo Lodge
Ol Malo is such a bespoke experience that there is no schedule here.
You can do what you want when you want it. The Lodge has 70 people on staff for only their four rooms, so you’ll feel totally pampered.
If you want to relax, there is a beautiful infinity pool overlooking the cliff. They also have a small spa with massage therapists available.
If you feel like doing something active, you can choose from game rides in their comfortable land rovers, guided walks through the savannah, horseback riding, camel riding, mountain biking, visiting the nearby villages, and more.
We arrived at Ol Malo in our small private plane. Meg, the host, came to welcome us at the landing strip. She drove us to the lodge, offered us a relaxing and refreshing drink, and outlined all the activities that we could do.
Tip: don’t miss the Ol Malo shop. They have a craft program supporting local villagers, and you can find many of their exquisite objects there. I bought a few decorative items.
Morning hike through the savannah
After almost a week of safari drives, this was our first chance to walk through the savannah. We met our guide, Laban, who is from the area. You do see things very differently when walking. it is your chance to see the smaller things. You can also fully hear the sounds of nature.
Our guide was great at explaining the behaviors of ants and termites and how they live in symbiosis with their host trees. We did the hike just before lunch, and it was hot. I was happy to jump into the pool to refresh upon our return to Ol Malo.
We even saw two crowned cranes while walking
Evening game drive
Before sunset on our first day at Ol Malo, we went for a game drive. We could see a massive group of elephants from our veranda, so we went looking for it.
The Ol Malo car is super comfortable. It only has two rows of seats, so it offers plenty of legroom for tall people. I loved sitting on the roof. It is not for the faint-hearted, but you can see the fantastic landscape of the Ol Malo conservancy in the best possible way.
A Hike and a Camel Ride
This was our big adventure day, combining a hike, a camel ride, and a game drive. We started early, by walking down the cliff to the water hole. The drop off just below the camp looks impressive, but Ol Malo has built steps, so it is a relatively easy walk down.
We walked through the beautiful landscape, a mix of savannah, sharp cliffs, and river. At one point, we came face-to-face with an elephant and some buffalo. I was happy to have our two guides with us, one of them carrying a machine gun.
We tend to be the most afraid of lions and leopards, but the animals that kill the most humans in Africa are actually hippopotamus and buffalo. Needless to say, we took a short detour when we came across the buffalo.
They brought some camels to meet us on the way, and we rode them for about 30 minutes. Riding a camel offers a totally different perspective. It is tranquil and provides a high viewpoint. I also think animals might be less afraid of camels than cars, so they don’t move away as fast. The path going down was quite an adrenaline rush, as the camel could sometimes go down quickly.
TIP: when riding a camel, try to be as loose and relaxed as possible. I was quite tense, and I made it harder than it should have been.
Ol Malo Bush breakfast
After enjoying the fantastic view from our camels, we started walking again. We were surprised to see that Ol Malo had set up a camp in the bush where they prepared a fantastic breakfast. There were fruits and cereals, along with a full English breakfast.
It was unexpected but very welcomed as we had left for the hike early. Andrew, the owner of Ol Malo, came to join us and shared incredible local stories.
We ate, talked and ate some more, watching the beautiful view, and realized it was almost lunchtime!
What an incredible morning! We felt very much alive.
Visiting a Sumburu tribe
Ol Malo does a lot to support the local population. Ol Malo has an ONG that operates a local school and provides employment opportunities to the nomadic Sumburu woman.
As a result, Ol Malo guests often get invited to local ceremonies. Those are very different from the touristic village visits that you can find in other parts of Kenya.
We were lucky to be invited to a dancing celebration by a Sumburu tribe. The villagers were celebrating some of the boys coming of age.
Don’t miss the celebration if there is one happening while you are there. It was humbling to witness how simply they live. There is no water or electricity in the village. The village was super clean. We have a lot to learn from them about how to use less plastic and produce less trash.
Watching a leopard at the water hole
As we headed out to breakfast on our last day, our guide Laban showed us a leopard in a tree near the water hole. We could see it with binoculars from the Lodge’s dining area, but we decided to get closer. We walked down the path as silently as we could to avoid scaring the leopard away. (Walking up and down this cliff is a great way to get your morning work-out!) It was amazing to witness this incredible animal eating an antelope up in his tree. Such a priceless moment.
We then walked back up the cliff for breakfast. (Up is much harder than down, and Ol Malo is located at the top of a plateau almost 2000 meters high. If you are not used to the altitude, you will get out of breath very quickly.)
The Food at Ol Malo Lodge
The food at Ol Malo Lodge is incredibly tasty. They have a fantastic cook. Most of the food is home-grown. They even grow and roast their own coffee and have hives for honey.
All the meals are taken family-style. There were two other guests during our stay. We were also often joined by Andrew and Tulia, who own Ol Malo lodge, as well as Meg and Rob, our hosts. This made for fascinating discussions, sharing the tales of the day, talking about Africa, or world politics.
Perhaps one of the most distinct experiences at the lodge is the Boma aperitif, an ancient African tradition. When we came back from the local village, they had set up a campfire. The chef prepared a buffet of barbecued meats and local delicacies. The fresh meat was so delicious. Waygu beef should watch out! It was a candlelit affair, where we even got to try the local cocktail made of lime and honey.
Internet at Ol Malo Lodge
Ol Malo has an internet connection. The router is set up in a small dark room at the back of the lodge and using it almost felt like being punished. There was no internet in the bedroom or the rest of the lodge.
My Airtel sim card was not working at Ol Malo, but people on Safaricom had a bit of network. So if you are visiting Ol Malo and want connection, get a Safaricom sim card.
Preparing for Your Trip
How much money should you bring on a Kenya safari?
If you stay in a luxury camp, you don’t need much cash at all, as everything is included. Ol Malo includes all meals and activities (except for the helicopter ride). Laundry is also included. Local and standard drinks are included, but if you want premium wines or alcohol, you will need to pay extra.
You should also bring some cash to shop at the boutique. This supports local women, and they had beautiful crafts objects.
The currency of Kenya is the Kenya shilling, but we found that the US dollars were widely accepted everywhere, so Kenya shillings are not really necessary.
How much should you tip on a Kenya Safari?
It is customary to leave 10-15 USD per day per person for your guides.
Lodges often have a community jar for their staff. Leaving 10-20 USD per day per person who assists you will also be appreciated, especially at lodges like Ol Malo that have over 70 employees.
What to pack on a Kenya Safari?
Beware that the weight of luggage is limit is 15 kg per person on most small planes, so you need to pack light. Most camps (including Ol Malo) offer free 24-hour laundry service, so you don’t need that many clothes.
Warm clothes: the weather can be surprisingly cold during the early morning or sunset drives, so bring warm clothes. I had brought shorts but ended up not using them because it was too cold. Bring layers so that you can adjust throughout the day.
Suncream: Most of the cars are open, and you will get some sun during the day. You might also want to bring a hat.
Mosquito repellent: There are not too many mosquitoes, but when you have one buzzing around you in the middle of the night, you will be happy to have that bottle of mosquito repellent.
Binoculars: Binoculars are handy for observing animals from far away, whether you’re on foot or in a car.
Camera: There will be so many incredible moments that you will want to capture them. I ended up using my 200mm zoom lens most of the time.
TIP: be careful about changing your camera lens during a game drive. It can be very dusty, so protect your camera so that no dust can find its way inside your camera body or lenses.
When is the best time to visit Old Malo Lodge?
The high season is June to September. June to September is usually the dry season in Ol Malo and most of Kenya’s safaris. There are typically clear skies during the dry season, and the weather is a bit more cold, allowing you to hike more comfortably for most of the stay.
The sky was clear during our trip, and we could see Mount Kenya in the distance.
As the land begins to dry up, it is also easier to see the animals. Not only do they congregate around the water sources, but the grasses are shorter, so they are easier to spot.
January and February are also decent months to travel as it is often dry then as well. Those months also see a high number of migratory birds.
There are two wet seasons in Kenya: A shorter one from October-November and the big one, which is February-June. Thunderstorms are frequent. The sky is overcast, and you can be trapped in consecutive days of rain. The animals are harder to spot. On the plus side, rates are often lower during the rainy seasons.
Conclusion
This is the ultimate bespoke safari experience. You might not see as many animals as in the Masai Mara, but you won’t see another tourist either. The unique activities like hikes, camel rides, or helicopter rides, combined with the fantastic accommodation, food, and service, will leave you awestruck and pampered. You can rest assured that your tourism dollars will go to locals who are passionate about preserving their heritage and sustaining the natural habitat of their land. This is a unique experience. Don’t miss it.
For more information about your Kenya safari, check out my reviews of Emakoko, Lewa house, and Tangulia Mara.
To book your trip at Ol Malo Lodge, contact Bush and Beyond, a travel agent specializing in bespoke luxury safaris in Kenya.
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Tangulia Mara Review: How to avoid the crowd in Masai Mara?
Tangulia Mara is the first Masai Mara safari camp to be owned by the Masai. It offers tents with the best view of the Masai river and the best guides in the Masai Mara. If you’re looking for luxury, this camp isn’t for you, but if you want the best safari experience you can get, this is the best choice. Read on to learn more about Tangulia Mara.
How to get to Tangulia Mara
Tangulia Mara is located in a private conservancy near the entrance to the Masai Mara. The Musiara airstrip is located only a 15-minute drive away from the camp, and it’s a scenic drive with the chance to see some magnificent wildlife right away.
Safarilink flies daily to the Mutiara airstrip, and the flight is a short and scenic 50 minutes from Wilson Airport.
Review of the Tangulia Mara Camp
Tangulia Mara is a safari-themed bush camp near the Mara River, between the Mara North Conservancy and the Masai Mara game reserve. It is centrally located, which allows guests and travelers to enjoy either side of the Mara River.
The most unique aspect of the Tangulia Mara camp is that it’s the first Masai Mara camp to be owned and managed by local people.
Tangulia means “to lead.” They are hoping to show local people that tourism can be a viable alternative to farming. The camp is situated on a conservancy of about 800 acres, and over 90 percent of their staff comes from the local community.
Location is everything, and Tangulia Mara has the best place for their camp: on a private conservancy, overlooking the Olotulo Murt salt lick pool. It is a strategic location as the animals need salt and pass by every day. The view was the best of any camps I have been to in Africa. And there was lots of action: from hippos and elephants to hyenas, There were lots of animals just below us. I slept less than 30 meters from a hippo, and we even witnessed two zebras fighting near my room.
Dining at Tangulia Mara
Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the camp central pavilion and on the terrace with a front-row vista of the hippos playing in the water, a display that never gets old. The dining area also has a fantastic view of the salt lick pond. We had an excellent breakfast at Tangulia Mara, and while we ate we could watch giraffes, hippos, elephants, and hyenas. It’s definitely one of the most memorable dining views I’ve seen!
The food is enjoyable and straightforward. Don’t expect Michelin star quality food, but you will not go hungry. The food was simple but plentiful. All the standard drinks are also included. They were very accommodating of my dietary needs. Dinner was served at a large table, enabling all the guests to mingle and share stories of their day.
Review of the Tangulia Mara rooms
Tangulia Mara is a camp, so the rooms are in the form of tents. There are only 8 tents in total, so the camp always feels very intimate. The camp has a very natural, crafty look that complements the surroundings.
The tents extend from the heart of the camp, overlooking the salt lick pond where animals congregate in their natural habitat. All the tents have a king-size bed and most rooms have an additional single bed. Some tents have a double and single bed which looks a bit weird if you are traveling as a couple but is great for a family. There is also a family tent with 2 bedrooms. The rooms provide very private and intimate vibes, so it is perfect for couples who love adventure.
Most of the tents provide the most beautiful scenery you can imagine, facing the Mara River and the salt lick pool. I could have spent hours on the comfortable private terrace watching the animals. It was so good that I didn’t want to nap in between drives. I’d end up staying awake on my terrace, watching all the action down below.
Tip: If you can, get a tent that overlooks the salt lick. The one with the best view is number 2.
There will be animals around your tents. But don’t worry: you are absolutely secure there. A security guard is available to walk you between your tent and the main lodge.
Every tent has its own bathroom, perfectly equipped with a full toilet and shower. Hot water is available throughout the day. I really liked that a gallon of drinking water was provided in every room. It is so much more environmentally friendly than the individual plastic bottles that most places offer.
A solar power system generates all power for the lodge, all lighting is LED-based and hot water heaters were replaced by solar heathers.
The game drives in the Masai Mara
When it comes to activities, Tangulia Mara game drives are second to none. On a game drive in the Masai Mara or the nearby conservancies, it’s common to find zebras, giraffes, buffalos, lions, wildebeests, hippos and even rhinos roaming freely. One of the more exhilarating experiences, however, is the river crossing during the migration time between July and September.
Day One: the first encounter with the lions on our afternoon game drive
We took two drives on the first day. The first one was when we arrived in the morning, on our way from the airport to the Tangulia Mara lodge. Our guide for the trip was Sam. He has over 20 years of experience and is one of the best guides around.
The number of animals was astonishing. We were there at the end of September, and it was still migration season, so there were millions of zebras and wildebeests roaming the park.
We had a glimpse of the Mara River, and while it’s beautiful, I definitely wouldn’t swim in it. There were tens of crocodiles and hippos relaxing in the water. I don’t think I have ever seen more hippos and crocodiles in one location.
After a few hours of relaxation at the lodge, we went back for the second drive of the day. It started with a torrential downpour.
In the late afternoon, we met a family of lions. It was fun to see them interacting with each other. There is a lot of communication going on between them. The babies’ play fighting was also very cute.
Day Two: the ultimate animal-viewing experience on a full day game drive
Our second day was a big one: we spent the whole day driving in the park. Most lodges offer a morning and an afternoon game drive, but Tangulia Mara also offers full-day rides. We were out for a total of 11 hours, and we reached some of the most remote parts of the Masai Mara park.
Our goal was to find a migration crossing, which was far from guaranteed. We were there at the end of September, which is usually the end of the migrations. It had rained recently in the Masai Mara, though, so the grass was still plentiful, which encouraged the herds to stay instead of crossing, so we were hopeful.
As we drove, we saw a rhino from afar. Most other cars were very excited to see it, but we had just seen some rhinos mating in Nairobi while staying at the Emakoko, so we were not that excited by this single rhino that was too far to see clearly. If you specifically want to see rhinoceros, the Nairobi National Park or the Lewa Conservancy offers much better chances for rhino sightings.
There were countless little moments of wonder throughout the day. The next thing we came across was a family of 12 lions. We were still in the busy part of the park, so there were 5 or 6 other cars watching the lions as well.
Sam, our guide then drove to the area between Kenya and Tanzania, and suddenly we were alone: no other cars in sight. 5 male lions were relaxing by a tree.
We then had a delicious lunch, with elephants in the background. (I got a bit worried when one started flapping his ears and looking at us…)
We got escorted by a hyena that ran alongside the car for more than 5 minutes.
The hornbill bird eating a serpent was fun to watch.
Witnessing the astonishing migration crossing
The earlier part of the day was great, but undoubtedly the pinnacle of the day by far was the migration crossing. We got to witness over 100 animals crossing the river.
I am not sure if it was just luck or the skill of our guide Sam (I suspect the latter), but we got to the place where herds of zebra and wildebeest were gathering.
We could see a few going down the cliff, but not daring to cross and coming back up.
After about 15 minutes of hesitation, they finally started to cross. What a spectacle! The migration crossing is touted as one of the greatest shows on earth, and it is easy to see why.
The energy of all those animals risking their lives to cross a river is riveting. The come down a sharp cliff, jump in the river and have to fight strong currents to make it to the other side. You can only hope that they all make it, and find yourself wishing you could go and help the young one and the ones who are struggling.
But the drama was not over yet.
All the wildebeest made it across, but about half the zebras were too afraid and didn’t cross the river.
The zebra all were distressed and calling each other from both sides of the river.
It was a moment that was both dramatic and emotional, as the zebras who had made it were crying to encourage their family to also cross. It was useless, as half of the zebras got too scared to cross and were not planning to.
Three zebras eventually went back to join the rest of the group. They again crossed the river in the other direction to be reunited with their people. One zebra was still very distressed on our side of the river. A few other zebras came to console him, giving him head hugs. It was like a dramatic Hollywood movie!
Day Three: an exciting morning drive to the airstrip
On our last day, the trip to the airport was also full of adventure. We saw a lion who had just found some prey and was trying to carry it to its hiding place. It was hard work, as the dead animal must have weighed over 100 kg, and the lion was panting.
We stayed with a family of baboons for a little while, and it was cute to see the babies learning to come down the trees. Some were not successful with their climbing and came tumbling down.
Tuesday morning was apparently family day, as we also came across a family of hyenas with two cute babies.
Internet connection on the Masai Mara
The Massai Mara park is surprisingly well connected with 3G and 4G.
I bought an Airtel sim card with a data plan when I arrived at Nairobi International Airport. It cost me 7 USD for 2 GB of data. I had a data connection in the Tangulia Mara camp as well as about 80 percent of the park.
Safaricom is also an excellent provider that has a network in even more regions, so that is probably the best option (their system was not working when I arrived in Kenya so I could not get a Safaricom card). Tangulia Mara camp has good internet in the lounge/restaurant area but no internet in the tents.
Tangulia Mara price and booking
A night at Tangulia Mara in the Masai Mara costs about 600 USD per person. This price includes all food, drinks. It also includes the game drives ( with a fully stocked minibar 🙂 ) and the airport transfer.
You can book via Bush and Beyond. Bush and Beyond is a safari organizer in Kenya that specializes in Luxury boutique lodges. Most of them are family-owned and provide an authentic experience of Kenya. They booked our Kenya trip and the whole organization was flawless so I highly recommend them for your safari in Kenya. You can find more info on their website.
Conclusion of my Tangulia Mara review
The Masai Mara is the center of Kenya’s thriving safari industry. It offers unrivaled game viewing but can sometimes feel very crowded. Staying at Tangulia Mara is a way to counterbalance that.
If you want gourmet food and champagne in your jacuzzi, pick another camp. But if you’re going to Kenya to see some animals in action and experience the wilderness, I don’t think there is a better camp. With stunning vistas, a friendly staff that makes you feel like a part of their family, small cars and remarkable guides, it’s a winning proposition.
The Masai Mara is the center of Kenya’s thriving safari industry. It offers unrivaled game viewing but can sometimes feel very crowded. Staying at Tangulia Mara is a way to counterbalance that.
For more information about the best safari lodges in Kenya, read my articles about the Nairobi National park, Ol Malo lodge and the Lewa conservancy.
If you love luxury tented camp, also check out my review of Nightfall luxury camp in Australia
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The Emakoko review: Visit the Wilderness Just Steps Away from Nairobi
If you’re going on a Kenya safari, consider making The Emakoko safari lodge your first stop after arriving in Nairobi. It’s close to the airport, so you’ll be able to settle in after your flight quickly, and there are lots to see and do.
The proximity to the city, the vast number of animals, and the excellence of the lodge make it the best choice for your first stop on a Kenya safari.
Read on for my review of the Emakoko and practical tips for your trip.
Getting to the Emakoko lodge in Nairobi
After 22 hours, two flights from Bali to Nairobi in Kenya and a 3 hours delay, I felt drained after arriving. But not for long…
I got picked up from the airport in an Emokoko branded safari car. In only 15 minutes, we were in the Nairobi National Park, and the adventure began. I’d forgotten how it feels on day one of a safari. Invigorated and excited, looking for animals in their natural environment.
We first came across a group of antelopes, zebras, and even rhinoceros! What an excellent airport transfer.
The “airport transfer” lasted 3 hours as it merged into a sunset game drive. The sunset was awe-inspiring!
TIP: If you are transferring from Nairobi International Airport to Wilson Airport, where most of the small safari planes depart, you might save time by going through the park. It can sometimes take 3 hours to transfer between those two airports due to traffic.
TIP: Be sure to time your trip to Nairobi carefully. There is usually less traffic on the weekend. The worst day for traffic is Friday, so avoid traveling through Nairobi on that day if you can.
Review of the resort and the food at Emakoko lodge
The resort has a great safari vibe. There is a large lounge at the center of the resort that looks very cozy, with plush sofas and cushions. The dining room is adjacent to the bar, and all the food is made fresh for every meal. Breakfast is served hot and crispy, and it was a great start to the day. According to some locals, the food served at Emakoko is some of the best found in the whole of Nairobi. Based on my experience, I would agree. We ate very well, and the chef was also very attentive to my dietary requirements, providing alternate meals when needed.
The lodge encourages its guests to come for sundowner drinks before dinner. That was great because some wild cats and bushbabies would come over to get food near the bar at that time. Sitting with a cocktail at sunset was an immense opportunity to watch these animals up close.
Review of the rooms at Emakoko lodge
There are 10 rooms in total at the lodge. Five bedrooms are on the lower part of the resort, and the other five are higher on the hill, with the most amazing scenic views. You access those rooms via a custom lift that is an adventure in itself. The rooms provide complete privacy for guests and have a beautiful view of the nearby savannah and river. Every room has its own personal veranda space, which is the perfect spot to relax and enjoy the spectacular scenery. The rooms have a beautiful open layout. They each have a double-sized bed and beautiful curtains on every window.
The rooms have built-in fireplaces that can keep the room warm and cozy in the winter. Unfortunately, it was too warm when we were there, so we didn’t get to try the open fire… The rooms have soft rugs, a coffee table, and a couch.
The bathrooms are big and incredibly lavish, and the rooms all have little extras like comfortable white cotton robes, slippers, a hairdryer, and torch.
All the rooms are also equipped with a safe. They are very comfortable, and amazingly, I found very few insects. No spiders at all, and just a small mosquito during my second night.
The game drives in the Nairobi National Park
Most people will agree that game drives are the most essential element of a safari, and the Emakoko didn’t disappoint. The Nairobi National Park might not have as many animals as the Masai Mara, or the beautiful vistas that you can see at Lewa Conservancy, but it is definitively a great park with plenty to see.
The Emakoko has direct access to Nairobi National Park, which allows the guests to enjoy a wildlife experience during their stay at the resort. The resort has four Land Cruisers and professional guides, for a great safari experience. The Land Cruisers are comfortable, with only 2 rows of seats and an open roof. This gave us an excellent view of whatever animals were passing by all around us.
TIP: The car was equipped with charging sockets: always useful if you need to recharge your camera mid-drive. Emakoko also provides binoculars in the car.
The park has a massive population of healthy rhinoceros and hippos. We saw eight rhinos, black and white, and we even spent some time with rhinos that were mating right next to the road! It was breathtaking.
It is mindblowing to encounter so many animals so close to the city. You can see large groups of buffalo, zebras, and antelopes, with Nairobi’s skyscrapers in the background. This is truly unique, and it’s an excellent example of cohabitation between humans and wildlife. The park has plenty of animals but has no elephants, and we didn’t see any lions or other big cats.
We found a few crocodiles by a lake with hundreds of birds. One of the birds was a bit cheeky as he took a bite from the crocodile’s tail.
The sunset on day two was again wonderful and the day appeared too short. We saw a few jackals and buffalo’s on the way back to the Emakoko lodge. Hard to believe that all this happened so close to the center of Nairobi.
Visiting the Elephant Sanctuary and the Giraffe Center in Nairobi
We also went to the Elephant Sanctuary and the Giraffe center.
The Elephant sanctuary was not a pleasant experience and I wished I had stayed in the Nairobi national park instead. There must have been over 300 people there and we could not see anything. The organization has a good mission and the baby elephants are cute but it was an unpleasant experience. It was so hot and crowded that we left after 10 minutes.
TIP: You can see plenty of baby elephants in the Masai Mara without the crowd so if you go there, you might want to skip the elephant center and maybe just make a donation if you want to support their mission.
The giraffe center was fun. It was busy but a lot less crowded. We could feed giraffes. One of them tried to give me a kiss!
The Emakoko price and booking
A night at the Emakoko costs about 550 USD per person. This price includes all food, drinks. It includes the game drives ( with a fully stocked minibar 🙂 ) and the airport transfer. It also included the transport to the Giraffe center and elephant sanctuary but not the entrance fees.
To book, you can contact Emakoko directly or you can book via Bush and Beyond. Bush and Beyond is a safari organizer in Kenya that specializes in Luxury boutique lodges. Most of them are family-owned and provide an authentic experience of Kenya. They booked our Kenya trip and the whole organization was flawless so I highly recommend them for your safari in Kenya. You can find more info on their website.
Conclusion
The Emakoko Lodge is a great first stop on a Kenya safari. Depending on your flight times, I recommend spending one or two nights at the lodge. It is the best way to start your safari because you’ll be experiencing the unique wildlife and landscape within 15 minutes of leaving the airport. The accommodation is super comfortable, the food is excellent and the service friendly. Happy Safari!
For more information about the best safari lodges in Kenya, read my articles about the Masai Mara, Ol Malo lodge and the Lewa conservancy.
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Review of the resort at Pedregal
If you’re considering spending your next holiday at Cabo San Lucas, Consider The Resort at Pedregal for your stay. It’s touted as one of the best hotels in Cabos San Lucas and even made it onto CNN’s list of the best hotels in the world. This is Luxury Travel stayed there for six nights. Read our review to find out if The Resort at Pedregal really deserves its reputation as one of the most luxurious hotels in the world.
Getting to The Resort at Pedregal
Getting to Los Cabos is relatively easy, as the airport has direct flights from many places in the US. From the Los Cabos airport, it is a 45minutes drive to the Resort at Pedregal. I booked my transfer with Airport Shuttle Los Cabos, and they were amazing. I gave them the wrong flight arrival time and only realized it after I landed. Fortunately, they were tracking my flight, and my driver, Ruben, was waiting for me. I was offered water and even a beer when I got in the car. Unfortunately, it was still too early in the morning for a beer. With Airport Shuttle Cabos, I got not only a transfer from the airport to the hotel but also a tour of Cabos. Ruben took the coastal road which takes 10 minutes longer than the direct route but is very scenic. He showed me all the new developments in the area and highlighted the various activities available. I definitely recommend this shuttle service! and you can book directly on their website: https://ift.tt/2n5l4e3
Check-in at The Resort at Pedregal
Check-in at The Resort at Pedregal was very smooth, as befits a hotel with their reputation.
After going through the mountain tunnel, the car dropped me off right at the lobby. Someone came to take my luggage. I was escorted to the check-in desk, I gave them my passport and credit card, and within five minutes, I was in my room.
The butler team told me that they would assist me during my stay, but I didn’t see them for the rest of the week, so I can’t really comment on the butler service that the resort at Pedregal provides.
Before I arrived, they had sent me a long email asking me plenty of questions, including whether I was celebrating something during my stay. I told them I was celebrating my birthday. Yet, on the big day, no one from the hotel even wished me a happy birthday. It is probably better not to have guests fill in forms if you won’t do anything with the information provided. My advice is don’t bother with this pre-arrival information.
Review of the Rooms at The Resort at Pedregal
There are 96 rooms in the resort, ranging from standard 1-bedrooms to 3-bedroom suites.
I stayed in a master suite, but it didn’t really look like a suite. It was more like a standard room to me. There was no separate living room. I have stayed at plenty of hotels that have finer rooms, so this was a bit of a disappointment. Don’t misunderstand me: the room was nice. But it is was a far cry from the suites in some of the most luxurious hotels I’ve visited, like Nihi Sumba, the Four Seasons Costa Rica or the Six Senses Con Dao in Vietnam.
My final complaint is that my room was facing the roof of the villas below, and their air-conditioning could be quite loud.
The Resort at Pedregal’s master suite comes with a private pool, but don’t get your hopes up too high. The “pool” is minuscule. It resembles a jacuzzi, without the bubbles. It’s also worth noting that the pool terrace has no privacy. At least eight other rooms could view my terrace, along with anyone walking on the stairs nearby.
On the plus side, the king bed was large and comfortable. I slept very well. There is a cozy fireplace in the room, which gave the whole room a sophisticated and relaxing ambiance. There is a safe in the room to provide maximum security for valued belongings. You can also choose from a wide range of pillows. The rooms are complemented by the dim lights that make the view more attractive and enjoyable. The place offers a local but abstract style for its visitors, promoting the local culture and vibes. Binoculars are available for a whale sighting from your balcony!
If you stay at The Resort at Pedregal, it is probably worth splurging for one of the beachfront villa’s. Their setting is spectacular, and you get the same great view as from the public pools, but from your private garden.
Tip: ask for a room closer to the water. If you have kids, ask to be on the right (south) side of the resort, close to the kids’ pool. If you don’t have kids, you will be happier on the left side near the adult pool.
Where to Eat When Staying at The Resort at Pedregal
There are three restaurants at The Resort at Pedregal. There’s also great food in the town nearby. The famous restaurant El Farallon is on the cliffside and is one of the best restaurants in Cabos San Lucas. It offers the most delicious seafood in town. You can also enjoy their champagne terrace. Next, we have Don Manuel’s, the signature dinner. All the dishes are exquisite, but Mexican food is their specialty, and worth ordering during a stay at the resort.
The food is at the resort is very good, but if you stay for a week, you might want to explore some other restaurants nearby as well. You’ll find more diversity, and also save a lot of money, as the prices at The Resort at Pedregal are on the high side, even for a luxury hotel. Plenty of good restaurants are accessible within a few minutes’ walk from the resort.
Tip: You can ask a golf cart to take you to the gates of the hotel near the marina so that you don’t have to walk through the tunnel.
My favorite restaurant in town was Bajo La Luna. It is a cute local restaurant with simple Mexican food. I had their delicious tacos. Their specialty is the Bajo Luna shrimp or lobster wrapped in bacon and mozzarella. Mouthwatering! They also have a good meat selection. They open at 2 pm, but it is probably more enjoyable to go in the evening as they have live music. It is about a 10-minute walk from The Resort at Pedregal.
Review of the Facilities at The Resort at Pedregal
What makes The Resort at Pedregal unique is its location near the Sea of Cortés. You get a lot of privacy and an exclusive feel, as the hotel is nestled behind a cliff, but it is also very close to downtown Cabo San Lucas and its marina.
The resort offers a world-class experience to its visitors with its dramatic cliff setting. The buildings are nicely landscaped along the cliff so that most rooms and public areas have a beautiful view of the sea. The resort area is very built up. They have built on almost every square meter of land available, including very close to the beach, so the beach is much more narrow than the beach at the hotel next door.
The swimming pools
The Resort at Pedregal is primarily a beach hotel that calls you to relax. The waves are powerful, so the ocean isn’t suitable for swimming, but it creates a dramatic effect of waves crashing on the sand. The sound of the waves throughout the whole hotel is extraordinary.
The two beachfront pools are stunning, and could easily be on a list of the best pools in the world. The pool on the north side is adult-only and tended to get very busy. The pools at resorts where most rooms have private pools are usually very empty. This is not the case at The Resort at Pedregal. This is due to the public pools being so spectacular, in combination with the fact that the private pools are disappointing.
It was sometimes infuriating to find out that people would reserve their seats by the pool in the morning. By 9 am one morning, the pool was empty, but that all the seats were reserved by a series of books, hats, towels and whatever else you can imagine ( see the picture below) . I could not find a single lounge chair by the adult pool. I retreated to the kids’ pool, thinking that this is not what I was expecting from one of the best hotels in the world. My stay was at the end of July, which is the off-season, so I can’t imagine the fight for a lounge chair that must happen during the busy season.
The public pool was very festive, with a swim-up bar that was busy most of the day. The service by the pool was truly outstanding. The pool towels were luxurious and plush, and pool attendants would replenish complimentary cold water bottles throughout the day.
The gym at the resort at Pedregal
The resort offers a great fitness center for all the fitness freaks who do not compromise their well-being even on vacation. The gym has the best and latest equipment. The resort also offers yoga and Pilates classes. I did a course every morning, and all the teachers were great. The classes ranged in size from 3 to 8 people when I was there.
TIP: Some yoga classes do get booked up, so it is better to book them as soon as you arrive to avoid disappointment.
Exploring the Marine Life Around Los Cabos
When staying at The Resort at Pedregal, it is easy to get sucked in by the spectacular pool and just hang out there all day. However, the Baja Peninsula is a special place teeming with marine life and, and you’ll miss out on some amazing experiences if you don’t leave the hotel. While in Los Cabos, we swam with manta rays, sea lions, sharks, and millions of other fishes.
Many tours can be done over a half-day so that you can still enjoy some time by the pool. I recommend the following tours.
Snorkeling and Kayaking by the Arch
This short tour takes you to the most scenic point in Cabo San Luca. It is an excellent morning exercise, and you can meet sea lions and a variety of fishes. Read my review here. This tour departs from the Cabos San Luca marina which is a 5-minute walk from The Resort at Pedregal, so it is very convenient.
Diving in Cabo Pulmo
Many locals consider Cabo Pulmo as the best diving area around Los Cabos. It is a long day trip. We departed at 6 am and returned at 6 pm, but it is worth it if you are into diving. Read my review here.
Shark Dive Snorkeling
The Shark dive trip is a half-day trip where you get a chance to swim with sharks and other large pelagics. We encountered two sharks and two manta rays, but if you’re lucky, you may get to see some whales or dolphins. Read my review here. This tour also departs from the Cabos San Luca marina.
Chileno Beach
While the hotel beach isn’t suitable for swimming, you’ll find the best place for swimming in the sea and snorkeling only 20 minutes away. There are showers and bathrooms available on the beach.
Conclusion of This is Luxury Travel’s review of The Resort at Pedregal
I had high expectations for this resort, and they were partially met. While there are much nicer hotels in the world for a relaxing beach holiday, The Resort at Pedregal is a perfect gateway to the town of Los Cabos and the incredible marine life that the Baja Peninsula offers. The public pools have an incredible scenic view of the ocean, and the service is top class. It would be an even more delightful resort if it were less built up and offered more lounge chairs to guests, but don’t let that stop you. I had a great vacation at The Resort at Pedregal, and I hope you will too!
To find the best price for your stay at The Resort at Pedregal, click here.
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Color of Ostrava is one of the most friendly European festivals of the summer. I got the chance to see the cure there in July. Check it out for 2019 https://thisisluxurytravel.com/colours-of-ostrava-in-czech-republic-a-music-festival-worth-discovering/ #ostrava #thecure #festival #music
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Review of Solaz Luxury Suites – Los Cabos newest luxury hotel
I spent a week holiday at Solaz Los Cabos, which is touted as one of the best new luxury hotels in Cabos. Read on to find out if they deserve their reputation.
Getting there
Solaz Los Cabos is located about 35 minutes away from the airport.
It is better to pre-arrange your airport transfer as you will get a better car and get a cheaper rate.
I used Cabo ground service during my trip and highly recommend them. The car is brand new, and their driver was friendly and professional. He shared a lot of information about the Cabos regions during the drive. You can find more info on their website
Beware of the timeshare sales pitch at checking!
Solaz is not an easy place to get into. The security guard could not find my name on his list, so it took about 5 minutes to gain access to the resort. I arrived at 11 am and was happy to hear that my room was ready.
Checking was smooth except for the attempted timeshare visit push. After checking, the receptionist leads me to the guest experience counter under the pretense of giving me information about the hotel.
The guest assistant started giving me some info about the hotels and the restaurants. She then told me that they invite all new guests to a free breakfast. And as the hotel just won an architectural prize they would take a few minutes to show us the architecture features of the hotel after breakfast. I received a breakfast voucher, and it is only when I got back to the room that I read the voucher and realized I had just signed up for a 90 minutes timeshare presentation…
I found it very deceptive. Not the behavior you would expect for a luxury hotel. I canceled the breakfast and made sure to stay away from the concierge and guest experience desks for the rest of the week.
Fortunately, the rest of our stay was outstanding and we forgot about this unfortunate experience.
The Solaz Luxury Suites resort in Los Cabos
The Luxury collection hotel and the Luxury suites compose the Solaz resort. The luxury Suites is the timeshare part of the resort. It is a good option if you like to have a kitchen and feel a bit more like home. We stayed in the Luxury Suite and got access to the same pools, gyms or restaurants as the hotel.
The architecture of the resort is spectacular with high-quality finishing, good taste design, and beautifully landscaped gardens.
The three-bedroom Imperial Suite at Solaz Los Cabos
During our stay at Solaz Los Cabos, we were lucky enough to enjoy the three-bedroom Imperial Suite located in the main building. It is one of the biggest suites in the whole hotel. Each of the three bedrooms has lavished attached bathrooms with glass-enclosed showers.
The master bedroom is facing the terrace and has a sea view. It is so relaxing to fall asleep by the sound of the wave. The apartment is soundproof, and we didn’t hear any other guests during our whole week there.
It is worth noting that the 2 other bedrooms, while comfortable, are at the back of the apartment and are facing the highway. The highway is adjacent to the hotel. You can hear the cars from the rooms so not the most pleasant holiday feeling if you have a room at the back of the building.
The living room was spacious, comfortable, and easy to settle in. The kitchen has great equipment for cooking. The whole set of furniture in the hotel is elegant which maintains the entire aesthetic of the hotel.
There is a sound system in every room in which you can plug your phone and play your music.
The suite is equipped with automatic lighting. While it looks fancy at the beginning, I found it annoying. Every time we would come back in the apartment, all the lights ( and the TV!) would automatically turn on. If you would have a nap and then make a move, all the lights in your bedroom would also turn on. I, therefore, spent a lot of time during the week turning off unwanted lights…
TIP: if you want to cook, there is a small store below the reception. They carry a limited range of products so you might prefer to go grocery shopping outside the hotel, there is a Walmart supermarket near San Jose where you can stock up for your stay.
There is a Jacuzzi on the terrace, but this was a bit of a disappointment as it is only a one-person bathtub with some light jets. It, therefore, felt a bit awkward using the Jacuzzi while other people were on the terrace.
Our suite was located on the fifth floor and offered a panoramic sea view.
TIP: Ask for a high floor room as the higher you are, the better Seaview you will get. Anything above the fourth floor should be good
The suites are beautifully designed with soft colors and a lot of wooden panels given them a natural feel.
The imperial suites are marketed for 12 people. I don’t recommend you staying there with 12 people as it is not that spacious. There was a dining table that could fit 6 people. The seating area was also suitable for 6 people, and there were only 2 lounge chairs on the terrace. We were just 3 people, and it was perfect.
TIP: Don’t invite more than 5 or 6 people to stay in the imperial suite if you want a comfortable stay
The cleaning team was very efficient and left our room spotless every day.
TIP: Amenities were not replenished during our stay so you might want to bring your own shampoo
TIP: There is a washing machine is the imperial suite, so you can pack light, but you need to bring your own washing powder. You can also use the dryer to dry your clothes after swimming
TIP: there were only 2 small plastic water bottles for a 12 person apartment so make sure you bring drinking water with you.
What to do at Solaz Luxury suites
The Solaz Los Cabos offers a resort built alongside the vibrant beach. Here you can enjoy the spa treatments, dance lessons as well as yoga classes during your stay in the hotel.
Relaxing by the pool
Let’s be honest. Most guests come to a beach resort to relax by the pool, so the swimming pool is one of the most essential places in a resort. And Solaz ‘s pools didn’t disappoint. The pools at the resort are very stylish. You can just relax on a lounge chair or leisurely drift in the water. There are four pools, and they are all stunning. Plenty of lounge chairs are available, but the chairs near the pool on the beachfront were sometimes hard to find.
All the pools are family-friendly. I would suggest Solaz reserve one of the pools for adults as not everyone enjoys relaxing with playing children.
The service at the pool was usually excellent but sometimes inconsistent which for a hotel in this price points was a bit disappointing. If you wait for someone to come and install your towel or open your umbrella, you sometimes be waiting for a long time. Used towels of guests who left the pool would also remain for a while, making it hard to know which seats were available. During the whole week, the staff offered us ice popsicle twice. Unlike many luxury hotels, Solaz doesn’t provide complimentary water by the pool.
The food at the pool is excellent and quite affordable for a luxury hotel. The food and drink service was also very friendly and efficient.
TIP: We found that the pool would get busier during mid-day so would usually go early morning or after 4 pm when it started to get quieter.
TIP: Beware of the sun in Los Cabos. We saw many guests with horrid sunburns.
Exercising in the gym or taking yoga classes at Solaz Luxury Suites
The gym is spacious and very well equipped, so Solaz is a great place to keep your exercising routine.
Solaz also offers complimentary yoga class and aquagym.
We tried the yoga class and were disappointed. The class is by the side of the central pool, which is a very exposed location. A woman and her kids in the pool were talking ( screaming?) very loudly during the whole class, which doesn’t lead to the relaxation expected from a yoga class. The teacher arrived late and wasn’t the most knowledgeable about yoga. If yoga is important to you, check out the resort at Pedregal. I was there the week before and was positively impressed with the quality of the Yoga teachers there. You can read my review of the resort at Pedregal here.
There is also a spa, but we didn’t get to try it.
Explore the marine life around Los Cabos
The Baja Peninsula is teeming with marine life. Make sure you go out of the hotel as spectacular experiences abound. Over the week, we swam with manta rays, sea lions, sharks, and millions of other fishes.
You can do most tours over a half-day so that you can still enjoy some time by the pool. I have done and recommend the following tours:
Snorkeling and Kayaking by the arch. This half-day tour takes you to the most scenic point in Cabo San Luca. It is a great morning exercise, and you can meet sea lions and fishes. Read my review here
Diving in Cabo Pulmo. Cabo Pulmo is regarded as the best diving destination around Los Cabos. It is a long day trip as we left at 6 am and came back at 6 pm, but it is worth it if you are into diving. Read my review here
Shark dive snorkeling. This is a half-day trip that takes you to swim with sharks and other large pelagics. We swam with two sharks and two manta rays, but you could also be lucky and encounter whales or dolphins. Read my review here
Chileno beach is an excellent place for swimming and snorkeling, and it is located 5-minute drive from the hotel. There are showers and bathrooms available on the beach.
Does Solaz care about Sustainability?
I have not found any indication that Solaz cares about sustainability. (they did not answer my emails)
No solar panels and high energy consumption was the norm.
For example, we could not turn off the AC in our apartment. The living room was freezing cold during the whole week. We asked maintenance to fix twice but never heard back from them. So we had to keep the windows open and waste a lot of energy.
The automatic lighting system was also wasteful with the lights turning on automatically. I spent at least 5 minutes a day turning off lights and TV.
The towels and bedsheets were also changed too often with no option offered to keep the old linens.
If you care about environmental sustainability, I don’t think Solaz is the right hotel for you.
Conclusion:
Despite being a timeshare, Solaz Luxury suites is a great place to stay for a family or group of friends that enjoy having a full-size apartment and a kitchen in a luxury resort. We felt at ease and enjoyed the utmost comfort and care throughout our 7 days stay in the Imperial Suite. The architecture of the hotel and landscaping are stunning.
I wish they would care more about sustainability. Solaz Luxury Suites is still a new resort, and there are a few small improvements that would help justify the price they currently charge. I am sure this place will only get better with time.
For more things to do in Mexico, check out my review of the diving liveaboard on Quino El Guardian and my review of the Resort at Pedregal in Los Cabos.
Have a great time in Mexico!
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