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THE RISE OF VETEMENTS. 

Vetements is undeniably out of the bag.  The collective of 18 designers, helmed by Demna Gvasalia – who has recently been appointed as creative director at Balenciaga - are seemingly fashion’s new darlings.  And I don’t know if I am happy or saddened by that. 

I “discovered” them – although, that in itself is a pompous notion – a few seasons ago and was deliciously savoring them to myself, relishing in their raw and angst-riddled appeal.  The clothes reeked in subculture and attitude, steeped in grubby glamorous grit, which is as much anti-fashion as it is fashion. 

While their name is simply “Vetements” – in itself a generic phrase, there is really nothing humble in the simplicity and democratic offering they have on show. Vetements has created something that is so desirable for the fact that is so subversive and devoid of all the polish, glitz and fanfare that have defined the scene for so long. 

Whilst some may say that it’s a matter of styling versus the craft of design, it takes a fair share of design credibility to make things seem so nonchalant, so seemingly thrown together – the artful cool of disorder that has been missing for awhile. Those stitched up jeans that are hacked up the front, the oversized hoodies, granny dresses and odd proportions all feel weirdly relevant, and extremely cool.  A backlash to the high octane, constructed mainstream vision of the fashion circuit.      

As the brand grows and develops, the challenge will inherently be in maintaining its independent, subversive, cultish chord – the spit in the face of conventional beauty – without transpiring into infantile rebellion.  

Its going to be an exciting journey to watch un-fold, especially in conjunction with Gvasalia at the helm of Balenciaga. A new breath of pissed-off air is definitely in the wind

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IN-BETWEEN DAYS.  For when duplicity feels inevitable 

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Channeling Oliver Zahm on a Saturday afternoon. 

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ASSENTION

or climbing the stairway to heaven...(one’s bed after one too many).

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CHALLENGE SERIES #3

THE FLOOR LENGTH SKIRT 

Its black, its silk, its classic.  By all means it should be a wardrobe staple.  Truth is I’ve had it for 10 years and it still has the tag on it!  Either I find 3 ways to wear it or off it goes to a more loving home.  

Trick was to treat it as its less formal self.  Don flats over heels, easy everyday separates to make for a more casual and fluid look.  Perhaps now it will transition its way over to an everyday essential instead of a sentimental keepsake… 

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Crushing on this jewelry from Sophie Buhai.  

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Sunny dispositions for an otherwise trite Monday. 

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A study in style:  Suzanne Koller, editor of Self Service magazine.

Understated chic. Timeless pieces of perfectly tailored classics - denim, camel, utilitarian modern day staples that are practical as they are covetable.  A perfectly edited approach to everyday dressing which removes all extraneous fanfare from the mix, to focus on the paired down essentials.  An elegant cut above the norm.  

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CHALLENGE SERIES #2

MARTIN MARGEILA PANTS.  

High waisted with a tapered ankle, these pants are certainly cool (they’re vintage Margiela after all).  But the proportions need a bit of thought to hit the right cord of insouciance, rather than zoot suit.   

Here’s how it went down. 

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Look 1: Work apropros with enough discord to save it from corporate conundrum.

Look 2: 90′s minimal silhouette.  A muted approach to evening wear that suggests, rather than reveals.

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The Challenge Series

So you know how within the sea that is your closet there are some pieces that lie in the back, rarely taken out for a spin? Pieces that you fall in love with at the time, that look great hanging out on their own…but never “coupled up” right for a cohesive look.  I call them my “challenge pieces”…items that I adore, but that I struggle in styling them for real life occasions. 

This series is my styling challenge to myself.  Going deep into my labyrinthian wardrobe to resurrect some beloved pieces and style them in 3 wearable ways. 

Challenge 1:  Leopard Skirt by Preen.  

I love this skirt.  But its a tough one.  The length, the cut (which give a bit of an unwanted frontal pouch) and the print make it a tad difficult to wear.  Not dressy enough for evening, but maybe too leopardy for day?  Nonsense. Leopard is the new neutral - so with that in mind, here we go

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Style Archive 2:  Jil Sander

Graphic & clean, with just enough austerity to make them interesting rather than plain.  These visuals remain in my fashion memory, and revisiting them still seem modern and on-point as they did in the late 90′s/early noughties.  

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Style Archive Series 1:  Prada circa 2000

A first in a series of collections that have been influential to me. These visuals still strike a chord and resonate a timeless elegance that floats above trend. 

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DON'T OVER ANALYZE YOUR INFLUENCES, JUST USE THEM.

KARL LAGERFELD