theoldfashionedsociety

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Old Fashioned Review #186, Alchemist, 66 St Martin's Lane, Covent Garden, London WC2N 4JS  @TheAlchemistUK Over 400 years ago, Henry VIII seized the medieval walled orchards and garden of Westminster Abbey and granted them to some Earl who built a fashionable arcaded square where a fruit and vegetable market was established. St. Martin's Lane was created when Robert Cecil 1st Earl of Salisbury, the scheming hunchbacked Elizabethan statesman and thwarter of gunpowder plots, was granted 5 acres of land to the west for some undoubtedly dastardly deed. Surviving the great fire of 1666 the area rose from the ashes to become a disreputable district of bustling taverns, coffee-houses and brothels. In the 18th-century the red-lit lane was noted for the Academy founded by painter and social satirist Hogarth, whose popular work depicted the bawdy deplorable activities of Rakes and Harlots. Although once the home of the flirty and dirty, today the gentrified neighbourhood is populated with respectable opera houses, theatres, second-hand bookshops, antique dealers and gentlemen's outfitters. Disappointed readers of this journal will however be relieved to hear that one can at least still find a decent drink in the suitably dramatic and enchanting environs of the Alchemist. The Alchemist’s warm copper décor is inviting. The bartender demonstrated his theatrical smoke and mirrors skills with flaming pans for waiting cooing customers before settling down to mix my good self a straightforward, no-nonsense Old Fashioned using Woodford Reserve whiskey, maple syrup and Jerry Thomas bitters.  I have sampled other outlets sharing the Alchemist title, but I can report that the drink and atmosphere of this particular venue was most enjoyable and a cut above the others. The flavour and strength were good, but the glass was lumpen and reduced the score by one half mark. The cost dear chaps was a Pavarotti.     Awarded 7.5/10 

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Old Fashioned Review #185, Jamavar, 8 Mount St, Mayfair, London, W1K 3NF @JamavarLondon Jamavar of Mayfair is a Indian fine dining restaurant worth forking out for. The culinary jewel of the Leela Palaces Hotel group, it’s elegant décor apparently takes its inspiration from the Viceroy’s house of New Delhi. This reviewer has not had the pleasure of visiting the aforementioned establishment, but must agree Jamavar's dark timber paneling, gilded walls, intricate hand-cut marquetry and Lutyens inspired furnishings do indeed invoke the clubs of the British Raj, and provide a glamorous yet relaxed setting for a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Chomping on the delicious chutneys and poppadums, I perused the exotic spiced dishes of the menu and readied myself for such temptations such as Malabar Prawns, Kid Goat Kebab, Malai Stone Bass Tikka, Adraki lamb chop or Venison samosa. It was clear one would need a more robust appetiser than the botanical-themed cocktails proffered. Thankfully the barman was able to fashion for me an excellent 'Woodford Reserve’ Old Fashioned, presented in a marvellous Old fashioned heavy cut glass. Flavoursome and strong, with a subtle spiced orangey tint, the drink went weak towards the end but the overall effect, supported by the sumptuous ambience of the dinning room, was first rate.   Notable American whiskeys were well represented at the bar with Bulleit, Elijah Craig 12, Hudson Manhattan Rye, Knob Creek and Rittenhouse Rye 100 Proof spied amongst the shelves. Service was slick and efficient, the staff curteous and clearly carefully trained (and if one is in the mood for a desert to cool the palette, I can recommend the cinnamon ice cream or Trio Sorbet which were as rewarding as the drink). Awarded 8/10 

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Old Fashioned Review #184,  Scarf’s Bar at Rosewood, 252 High Holborn, London WC1.

After a long old trudge, the Colonel’s filly grew tired, so we pulled up a small watering hole near Holborn, by the name of Scarf’s Bar. “Old Fashioned” I bellowed at an attentive Spaniard – Booker’s Bourbon was suggested at a mouthwatering £16-£17 (more of that in short-shrift). The Booker’s was jiggered into a rather ordinary glass containing three splashes of unknown bitters, followed by a teaspoon of brown liquid, presumedly a type of Gomme Syrup – a shortcut that removed the buttery texture that the Colonel so desires in his evening tincture. The garnish was served in the American style with orange peel and a maraschino cherry. Thankfully the afore mentioned bourbon is bottled at a respectable 62 per cent, so no problem with strength there, don’t-you-know! The ambiance was that of a drinking man club with some feminine flourishes – to add balance one assumed. Sadly, a gaggle of young women were determined to cackle the gentle hubbub into submission, without a care from the abundant staff. Pffft! The bill rudely arrived when I was barely half-way down the glass. From this point in my story, I would urge my fellow Society Members to sit down, before continuing reading. The bill informed me that my Old Fashioned was £28.75 (including tip, although I must point out that one was stationed at the bar). Turns out, you know, to be the saltiest of Old Fashions I have ever tasted. Could I trouble my brethren to reflect and ask if they have paid more? 4/10 awarded.

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Old Fashioned Review #183, The American Bar, The Savoy, Strand, London WC2  @thesavoylondon​

Built by the impresario Richard D'Oyly Carte with profits from his Gilbert and Sullivan opera productions, The Savoy is one of London’s most revered luxury hotels. For 130 years it has proudly stood on The Strand majestically surveying the Thames and the celebrated theatres and fine restaurants of the West End.  Surrounded by magnificence and neighbouring the splendid home of the Duke of Somerset and its exceptional collection of art, from the moment its doors opened in 1889, the superlative 5-star Savoy has welcomed royalty, nobility and generations of guests from the world’s grandest families into its splendorous environs. And it was through those very same bronzed revolving doors that two gentlemen of the Old Fashioned Society recently stumbled in, from a cold January evening, to experience the Savoy’s legendary art deco American bar and the skill of its custodians for themselves. Greeted at the door by a charming young lady, the reviewers were politely directed past the pianist tinkling his ivories, to a discrete table in the corner, from where the General and the Colonel (Regiment of Highland Sippers, Retired) could observe the bar and its patrons from the comfort of their curved leather chairs. The companions were made most welcome, with the General’s head to boot Triple Denim attire neither raising comment nor eyebrow. The drinks were ordered with minimum of fuss. Whilst they waited they enjoyed the snacks and the warm golden affluence of their historical surroundings. The Savoy’s American Bar is the oldest surviving cocktail bar in Britain, first welcoming guests for its popular ‘American-style’ drinks in 1893.  Today, its enviable reputation positions it at the very summit of beverage hospitality, recognised as the World’s Best Bar more than once. Adorning its walls are iconic black and white portraits by Mr Terrance O’Neill and the glass tables carry a design reminiscent of a camera shutter. The cocktail menu offered numerous distractions inspired by these images  - “That’s a Wrap” Bourbon mixed with wood bitters and Fever Tree smoky ginger ale was tempting; “Capturing the Moment” Rye Whiskey with vermouth, roasted walnut, absinthe and chocolate bitters was intriguing; and an 1858 Sazerac mixed with 1950s Pernod Absinthe and vintage Peychaud’s Bitters at £5,000 was eye-watering. Sticking to their mission and budget, the General reports that the “Old Fashioned’s” thankfully did not arrive in a flash. The barman correctly took his time to mix a fine drink, selecting Woodford Reserve from a bourbon shelf populated with Basil Hayden, Bulleit, Michter, Wild Turkey Rare Breed, Four Roses Small Batch, Blanton’s Special Reserve and George T. Stagg Single Barrel. The companions agreed it was initially tangy, followed by a smooth butteriness before dispatching a chops smack finish. The Colonel summarised it was “both sweet and sour, like the woman of your dreams.” The ambience of the bar and the flavour of the Old Fashioned were most appreciated but the reviewers would have preferred the glassware and strength of the drink to have a little more substance. Unlike the bill which was heavy enough. 7/10 awarded.

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Old Fashioned Review #182, Hedonist Project Leeds @HedonistProject

At the 1968 Olympics, Dick Fosbury tried something different. The Fosbury Flop which earned him a gold medal revolutionised the high jump. Sadly The Hedonist Projects attempt at doing something different with our beloved Old Fashioned won’t be winning medals of any kind.

The Brigadier’s concerns about the quality of this cocktail were first piqued when it was clear this Old Fashioned had been pre-mixed. Secondly, on removing the apple from the glass it was clear that, what looked like a full tumbler, was very short changed indeed.

Whilst good things have been said about the Hedonist Project and their attempt to revitalise the cocktail bar, one can only suggest they stop this bastardisation of a classic cocktail.

No score is given.

[theoldfashionedsociety]

Old Fashioned Review #181, Below Stairs, Leeds @belowstairsbar

After sampling a fine Old Fashioned at the Dakota Hotel’s cocktail bar, The Brigadier did ask the Barman for a recommendation for another of his favourite cocktails. He was henceforth pointed in the direction of a bar that was indeed below stairs and even street level.

On entering said establishment with Lady Hunter of Northumbria, The Brigadier was concerned that the establishment was a little quiet. But the enthusiasm of one of the Barmen filled The Brigadier with confidence and his trust was rewarded with a very fine Kentucky Whisky laced Old Fashioned.

One hopes that this establishment gains more clientele as a result of this post as the mixologists, location and art on display, do demand the attention of members of The Society and it’s readers.

Therefore a score of 7.5 from 10 is bestowed on this establishment.

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Old Fashioned Review #180, Dakota Hotel, Leeds @DakotaDeluxe

The Brigadier undertook a sojourn to the fair city of Leeds, in what is arguably the greatest County in England, the County of Yorkshire. As the photo clearly shows, on this occasion his Old Fashioned explorations did involve the company of a young lady.

As conversation flowed, the Barman at the Dakota Hotel’s cocktail bar, bestowed upon the Brigadier a carefully mixed Old Fashioned laced with Bulleit Bourbon. Now the Brigadier must confess that this is not his favourite Bourbon for this particular drink, he much prefers Bulleit in a Boilermaker.

The care and attention shown, though, in the mixing of this particular cocktail did convince the Brigadier that the Barman’s skills were worth his attention and he must confess that what was presented was indeed a fine cocktail.

Therefore the Dakota Hotel’s cocktail bar has earned a very respectable 7 score from 10. The Brigadier would like to add that it would be better if the Barman had asked for The Brigadier’s choice in Bourbon, but it was noted that not many options were available.

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Old Fashioned Review #179, Brasserie Zedel, 20 Sherwood St, Soho, London W1F 7ED @BrasserieZedel

Gentlemen of the society, the Brasserie Zédel, is a grand, gilded, marbled, art deco, subterranean Parisian brasserie in Piccadilly Circus that is well worth your attention. A decade or more ago this glamorous basement space, was once turned by Mr Oliver Peyton into the Atlantic. Now, the vast ballroom has been returned to its former glory and though there are perhaps seats for 200 derrières, table service is tres efficace. From the menu, the General can recommend the onion soup, the steak frites, moules, boeuf bourguignon and the profiteroles. He also recommends you order an Old Fashioned at the restaurant bar.

These examples were mixed by a handsome french chap using Woodford Reserve. The flavour and strength were acceptable, the choice of glassware was a little disappointing for such a fabulous venue, but the vintage ambience of the environment made up for for these things. 7/10 awarded.

The General is convinced that Brasserie Zédel has more to offer the discerning Old Fashioned drinker, and fully intends to return to sample the nocturnal entertainments of its ‘Crazy Coqs’ cabaret room and its Bar Américain, at the earliest opportunity in his social calendar.

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Old Fashioned Review #178, Well and Bucket, 143 Bethnal Green Rd, London E2 7DG. @WellandBucket

Gentlemen of the Society, it is the General’s privilege to introduce you to The Well & Bucket - one of the East End's oldest pubs (1818), one of its newest and quite possibly one of its best.  This notable Victorian born-again boozer was brought back from the dead and is now brimming over once again with casks and bottles of beautiful beer and splendid oysters. It's atmospheric decor includes splendorous battleworn glazed tiles, stupendous skull portraits, and down below a little secret …. a candle-lit basement cocktail bar.

On entering the intoxicating chamber, the low-beamed ceiling and green glass lanterns give the impression of being below decks in a gun ship of the line. One glance across the back shelf from the vantage point of a leather captain's chair at the copper-topped bar, is all the discerning customer needs to be smacking their lips in anticipation of receiving a bloody good drink. Ms Stephaine, the most charming Glaswegian one could possibly hope to meet in a dark subterranean brick bonded cell, was delighted to mix a hexad of Old Fashioneds for the thirsty General and his colleagues.

The first round of beverages, made with Elijah Craig 12 year Bourbon infused with Angostura Orange Bitters, were appreciated by the party and awarded 7/10 for flavour, presentation and restraint with the ice. With such a promising start, a request for a stronger concoction of the Bartenders’s own interpretation was made.

HOO-HAH!! The second Old Fashioned made with 100 proof Bottled in Bond Old Grand-Dad, mixed with combination of Angostura and Angostura Orange bitters had the specified broadside power to hit the mark. With consideration to the agreeable ambience of the bar, the vanillary spicey flavour, and the congeniality of its maker, this outstanding Old Grand-Dad Old Fashioned is bestowed the rare decoration of a 9/10 mark.

For readers of this journal who are unaware of the credentials of Old Grand-Dad, the bourbon is distilled in Clermont, Kentucky and was created by Raymond B. Hayden in 1840 in honour of his grandfather Basil Hayden, Sr. who is depicted on the distinctive orange label of each bottle. In his 1953 novel The Long Good Bye, Chandler has detective Philip Marlow pour an Old Grand-Dad for his friend Lennox and in Fleming’s 1954 novel Live and Let Die, James Bond specifies Old Grand-Dad for his Old Fashioned. Should one really require further testimonial of its eminence, President Harry S. Truman’s preferred tipple was Old Grand-Dad on the Rocks. And that gentlemen, as we stumble up the stairs back to Bethnal Green Road, is enough for us.

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Old Fashioned Review #177, Livello Newcastle-Upon-Tyne @BarLivello

There aren’t many cities in the British Isles that are as beautiful as the fair City of Newcastle upon the Tyne. And it was in this fair City that the Brigadier found himself, residing in the historic Quayside area and a mere stone’s throw from a bar named Livello.

It was here that the Brigadier was able to sample The Society’s first ever Cherry Old Fashioned. Crafted with care and presented in a beautiful cut glass, this Bar made a valiant attempt at our beloved cocktail and hath recorded a respectable 7.5 out of 10.

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Old Fashioned Review #176, 68 and Boston, Soho WC1: @68andBoston As we attempted ingress, a ruffian with an incongruous luminous arm band was being reprimanded by a misshapen maître d’ for being a tad louche with his launguage. Clearly, my companion and I were attempting to enter an establishment on the wrong side of gauche. However, and at once, realising the presence in his doorway of two gentlemen,  he lurched into a pose that even my aged osteopath would have winced at. But before we could say “My man, could we possibly…” our rakish chap informed us that sadly there was no room for us – however we were allowed to stand “there”. He gestured to an open expanse at the bar. How curious, I began to ponder what else was he thought we were attempting to procure (this was Soho, after-all). But we had no time for shenanigans; our mission was preordained. ”Two Old Fashions my man!” bellowed my brethren at the short barkeep who was slathered in prodigious amounts of pomade. The choreography began as if directed by that Boche,  Fritz Lang. Eye contact was gratefully kept to a minimum, save blurring boundaries. Woodford Reserve appeared alongside a mixing glass, both rising directly beneath the synthetic bar surface before us. Curious, were we expected? The ice that was added was as sadly as wet as our man’s hair. The process was wretchedly rushed. It is becoming all to common for underlings to assume a proclivity in being reductive in their duties these days, don’t you find? The glasses was notable – reeded, with a very helpful indentation at the base, for those among us who prefer there drinks delivered as sextuplets. Angostura Bitters were proffered with Gomme Syrup! I jest you not. We certainly were entering peculiar quarters. Not only were we being denied the theatrics of the muddling process, we were being disavowed of the texture one has become accustomed to. Orange pieces were waiting for their moment rather than freshly cut. Which our man then used to scythe back and forth as if mowing an invisible meadow, twisting the citrus slice as he went. Napkins were absent as our drinks were presented - threatening our sartorial splendour. Shortly after, and much to our chagrin, two small glasses of water were delivered by a very tall filly with gentle, Eastern European smile. Our tipples filled our noses with strong smoky fumes as our conversation ignited. Great company is the prefect accompaniment to alcohol, don’t you agree? The notes swung towards sour, my preference – the fragrance of the citrus lifting the earthy tones of Mr Woodford’s concoction. In fact, we found it strangely refreshing for such a short drink. In summation, one must say, our beverages went down as smoothly as the slip of a seasoned Soho harlot (as one might expect for 20 guineas). Marks Awarded Ambiance: 4 out of 10 Presentation: 5 out of 10 Flavour: 6 out of 10

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Old Fashioned Review #175, Grill on New York Street, Manchester, M1 @grillonnewyork

The Grill on New York Street is a refined but no-nonsense restaurant and bar located in Manchester's business district for the discerning customer. With its oak tables, leather booths and wood panelled ceiling, it’s a stylish modern space in which a gentleman can enjoy a decent aged British Steak and a decent Old Fashioned drink. 

A stool at the long bar is the perfect place to wait for a table where the knowledgable barman will deliver a Smokey Old Fashioned made with Maple Syrup. But, if you ask nicely, they’ll mix you a straightforward no-nonsence Woodford Reserve Old Fashioned, with an ice ball, in a perfect Old Fashioned glass. Solid. Simple. Honest. Proper. The General likes this.  8.5/10 awarded.

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Old Fashioned Review #174, The Podium Bar, Hilton Hotel, Deansgate, Manchester, M3 @HiltonMCR @Cloud23Bar The imposing 47-storey 554 ft Hilton Hotel tower is an iconic glass landmark of post industrial Manchester. Visible from 10 English counties on a clear day and the tallest British building outside London, it’s 23rd floor is home to the opulent cocktail bar Cloud23, highly popular amongst the glamorous aspirational set of the city. Which is the very reason why the Gentlemen of the Old Fashioned Society don’t frequent it. 

Instead of bothering with the private elevator and exhaustive wait to be served, the Society instead recommends that a gentleman quenches his thirst in the ground floor Podium Bar. On his recent visit in January, the General reports he found the environs to be very comfortable (although the bright lighting somewhat diluted the atmosphere) and the Old Fashioned was of good flavour (although the over-icing and over-oranging somewhat diluted the taste). 

The glassware was simple but elegant. The staff were personable and efficient. A better than satisfactory drink and experience. 7/10 awarded. 

As a footnote to his report the General informs the members that the wind hum created by the tower is a reassuring B below middle C.

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Old Fashioned Review #173 @MarriottBKK Bangkok

A warm January evening in the bustling city of Bangkok and my taste buds were tingling for the finest of gentleman’s drinks. With the sun hanging low on the city skyline I made my way through the traffic to the Marriott hotel. That fine sleeping establishment had an ace ups it’s sleeve - although you wouldn’t know from the ground. On the 49th floor of the towering building I found the Octave bar and its 360 panoramic views. Not a floor, ceiling or wall in sight - just a few sheets of glass to stop those intoxicated from taking the quick route back to the ground floor. With the delights of chill out house music beating away I ordered my gentleman choice of tipple - the Old Fashioned. Within a minute or two it was carefully presented to me with a smile that only a Bangkok barman could give from behind a glowing blue bar in the early night sky. Ka pun kap - I thanked him. Smooth and delightful - both myself and the drink. 9.5/10.

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Old Fashioned Review #172, The Whiskey Jar, Tariff Street, Manchester. M1 (NQ) @WhiskeyJarNQ The Old Fashioned Society is no stranger to marvellous recuperative effects of The Whiskey Jar. This former textile mill on the edge of Manchester's Northern Quarter has often provided a welcome refuge to society members in need of a decent intoxicant. The victorian street lanterns act as beacons to guide you in towards its safe haven of brick walls and leather sofas. The bar staff here are knowledgable, non more so than Carmel, who skilfully mixed this strong, highly satisfying Old Fashioned using her preferred Bourbon - Wild Turkey 101. A Jim-dandy of a drink. 8/10 awarded. Whilst the General waited for the young lady to mix his Old Fashioned, he wet his whiskers with another old favourite; a cold bottle of 'Old Engine Oil’ a rich, black, bittersweet viscous 6% ale, from the craftsmen at the Harviestown Brewery. So perfect a companion, the General had a second.

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Old Fashioned Review #171, Indian Tiffin Room, First Street, Manchester. M15. @Indtiffinroom

The Indian Tiffin Room specialises in authentic Indian street food. Every tasty dish is made to order from fresh ingredients and the service is swift and sociable.  Judging by the colourful, bustling atmosphere on the night of this review, it’s a popular venue for those whose tastebuds prefer less obvious exotic edibles and refreshments.  The tamarind and mint chutney Punjabi Samosas, Channa Batura (puffed bread with chickpea masala), Gobi Manchurian (fried Cauliflower) fried Chicken Lollypops and the Chicken Vishaka were the hazy highlights recalled by the General on his visit in December. The General reports in despatches that the Indian Tiffin Room is also, rather unexpectedly, a fine place to go for a bloody good drink. It’s smoky, spiced  'ITR OLD FASHIONED’ served with a cinnamon stick was a new and unique, but suitably strong and flavoursome experience, served with an ice ball in a suitably old fashioned glass. Contrary to regimental rumour, the General is an open-minded chap and (even though sticking a wooden stick in a fellow’s drink is strictly out of bounds if one was a stickler for the no-sticks rules) he looks forward to encountering the lip-smacking, finger-licking Indian Tiffin Room again and awards their cinnamon sticky spiced Old Fashioned 7/10.

[theoldfashionedsociety]

Old Fashioned Review #170 @MOJO_BAR Leeds.

Ride were one of the great shoegazing bands of the early 90s. Sadly the rise of Britpop put paid to their ambitions of bringing shoegazing guitar wonder to teh world... quite miraculously though they have recently reformed and in celebration of their superb concert at Leeds Beckett University the Brigadier and General Gibbs marched towards a Leeds drinking establishment where a confident young lady concocted several Old Fashioneds with Wild Turkey Rare Breed.

Her use of orange made the drinks have a strong citrus flavour and this was balanced out with a good balance of bitters, syrup, ice and lashings of Bourbon.

A very respectable 7/10 was therefore bestowed along with long lingering looks on her perfectly formed frame... we blame the bourbon!