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[themusiciantraveler]

Now We’ve Had the Ride of Our Lives

Monday.  June 4, 2018.

 We started the morning gloriously late – I think we slept in till almost 8am!  We enjoyed a lovely late breakfast with the freshest fruit I think we have seen the entire trip, which is really saying something. After breakfast, we still had enough time to wander around quaint Oberammergau and peak through its adorable little shops.  We found a few scarves that were locally made for some friends back home, a new hand-carved Christmas ornament, and even an adorable little music box that played “Edelweiss”.

After our brief shopping excursion, we meandered around the town one more time until we stumbled upon an interesting building under some kind of construction.  We finally found a little sign that let us know that we were at the sight of the infamous Passion Play that occurs every 10 years in Oberammergau.  This fantastic production has been happening since the mid-1600s and has only been canceled once, on account of a massive plague that ran through Germany.  This performance of the story of the crucifixion lasts approximately 6 hours and features a delightful dinner break mid-way through the play.  The incredible, hand-fashion building is created with a roof that opens to reveal a view of the stars during the evening of the production.  The roof opens up once the sun sets and lets the wonderful evening air into the amazing venue.  If you don’t have any plans for Easter weekend of 2020, I recommend we get a group together to go see this incredible performance.

After our brief stop sneaking into the under-construction Passion Play venue, we finally got on the road towards Munich once more and got that much closer to our flight home to the states.  But not even ten short miles away, we saw a sign for an alpine coaster and soon we were pulling off the road to find the aforementioned coaster.  Before you know it, Amy and I were running up the hill like small children on Christmas, with my mom and Jenessa not far behind.  But soon we were all together in line for the ski lift up the mountainside. After about a 20-minute ride up the gorgeously green mountainside, we had finally reached the top.  Suddenly I panicked and was questioning how to disembark the ski lift sans snow and sans skis – something I had never pondered or done before.

So, I simply braced my feet as I would with skis on and prepared for landing.  After a short jog off of the ski lift, we were headed for the entrance to the alpine coaster.  The kind German man running the coaster motioned for us to step into the car in front of us, one behind the other.  In broken English, he began to explain how the brakes worked simply stating “Pull up to slow, push down to go.  Okay? Okay.”  And soon we were off!

Oh, my word!  We were going to fast that the wind not only blew our hair back but nearly took our breath away.  We hit the first turn in the track and we both let out high pitched screams of delight and surprise.  Once we finally settled into the rhythm of the track, we took some time to glance at the countryside that was whizzing past us as we hurtled down the mountainside.  Hues of greens and yellow filled our vision as it all blurred together in one gorgeous mess.  The gentle breeze that accompanied our ride up the hill became a roaring, rushing wind as we gained more and more speed.  I opened an app on my mom’s phone mid-ride and learned that we were clocking nearly 40 miles per hour!  What took us almost 20 minutes to get up the hillside, took less than 10 to get us all the way down to the bottom of the hill where we embarked on our amazing journey.

Riding an alpine coaster has been on my bucket list for several years now, and it was so incredible to get to experience this once in a lifetime opportunity with my mom by my side.  If you visit Oberammergau, you must stroll through the shops and find some souvenir to take home and you must stop at the alpine coaster and take the ride of your life down the lush, green mountainside.  It was one of my top highlights of the trip, and I would do it all again in a heartbeat.

Our final night in Europe was spent in the outskirts of Munich at a fantastic little, local brewery. After sixteen days together, it felt like family was around the table with us.  We recollected on our favorite parts of the trip and the highlights that we had experienced throughout our time together.  We had our last schnitzels, freshly baked pretzels, and steins of beer together and it made me so incredibly thankful for the two short weeks we had just spent with our new friends.  We settled up all the money we had lent and borrowed over the length of the trip and spent some time in prayer for each other.  We each thanked Doc and Michael profusely for giving us the best trip of our lives and for imparting so much knowledge to us.

We headed back to our own rooms, repacked the last of our things in our last game of Tetris for the trip, and settled in for the night for our early morning flight home to the states.  These have been some of the most unforgettable weeks of my life, and one day I hope to be able to come back to these beloved places and spend more hours soaking up the beauty of the world around me.  I cannot believe it flew by so quickly, but I cannot imagine the trip going any other way.  I’m thankful for the hilarious mishaps and the pleasant surprises, and for everything I’ve learned along the way.  What Anita Desai says is really true – “Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.” Europe will forevermore be part of my heart, a piece of my heart I would love to revisit as many times as I can, whether in person or just in the recollection of my mind’s eye.

Until next time...adventure is out there!

[themusiciantraveler]

A Dream is a Wish Your Heart Makes

Sunday.  June 3, 2018.

 We started early for the castles, passing many a glacial lake and river along the way.  We arrived after yet another brief nap (did I mention that napping is crucial to surviving any road trip no matter the location?) and a good deal of sneezing.  The streets were swarming with people, clamoring for food, souvenirs, bathrooms, and pictures in every language you could imagine.  The cacophony is hard to forget.  As with any good trip, our very first stop was the restrooms before we began to make our way up the hill toward the museum and Alpsee (German for glacial lake).

One very important point to remember is this: you MUST book your tours at least two to three months before you plan to visit Höheshwangau and Neuschwanstein.  Tours fill up incredibly quickly, and if you wait to try and book your tour until you arrive in Germany, you will be sadly disappointed.  If you just want to visit and do not want to tour, take the horse-drawn carriage ride up the mountain to see Neuschwanstein and bask in the beauty of the amazing castle.  But, in my opinion, you will want to take tours of both castles – they do ‘bundle’ deals.  I promise you will not regret it.

It was a perfectly warm and sunny day, yet quite pleasant in the shade.  So, by the time we reached the picturesque lake, I could not help but scamper down to the shoreline, toss off my shoes, and wade in as far as my jeans would allow.  The water was the most crystal blue you have seen in your entire life, and I would have honestly been completely content to spend the rest of my day right there in the cooling water.  But alas, the Disney-esque castles were calling to me like the familiar siren call that opens every iconic franchise film.

After my mini adventure into the great wide lake, we entered the museum.  Perhaps the least noble monument in this particular mountain range, this museum contains artifacts and history about both castles and their creator, Ludwig II and his extensive family.  The young king assumed the throne at the age of eighteen, following the untimely death of his beloved father, Ludwig I.  The young prince, turned king was quite the dreamer and both of his pet projects reflect his head being very much in the clouds.

After the museum, we started up one of the many slopes that led to Ludwig’s first construction and summer home – Höheshwangau.  The small but lovely yellow palace emits sunshine and sits atop a mountain directly across the way from his second, and most well-known project – Neuschwanstein.  His summer home offers one of two perfect views of the “Disney castle”, right outside Ludwig’s bedroom window.  The smaller palace features medieval décor, lofty ballrooms and opera stages, as well as many stunning views of the surrounding vistas. After our first tour, we headed back down the hill into the little village below for lunch and an ice cream break before our next tour.  We munched on sharp, grilled bratwursts and freshly baked perfectly salted cheese pretzels.

After our lunch snack, we couldn’t help but grab a couple of ice cream cones and sat on the edge of the lake enjoying our sweet afternoon snack.  Soon it was time to make our way up the next hill for our tour of Neuschwanstein.  And after watching carriage after carriage pass us by, we couldn’t resist purchasing the 6-Euro tickets to travel up the hill in true style.  George and Mona also joined us on our trip up the hill, and we all squeezed into the front row of the carriage behind Maria and Liesl, our sweet horses.  Soon enough, our carriage dropped us off where the hill became too narrow and steep for our trusty equine companions and we were just a short 10-minute walk away from being at the base of one of the most famous castles in the entire world.

With still a little bit of time before our tour was to begin, we took advantage of the five-Euro deal the little gift shop was running on a cappuccino, pastry of your choice, and a collectible mug with a vignette of the castle on it.  We sipped and enjoyed the sweet coffee and fresh waffle beneath the stunning castle that inspired Walt Disney to build the castle of his dreams for his beloved Disneyland.  Time was soon up, and we found ourselves in the lengthy queue to begin the never-ending trek up the castle’s multitude of staircases.  When we finally reached the third floor, we exited into King Ludwig’s living quarters.  The ornate displays of Gothic architecture were stunning and flawlessly crafted, certainly, no expense was spared in his most favored project.

The ballroom is the largest in all of Bavaria and closely resembles that of Wartburg Castle’s own, which we had seen just the day before. Scenes of Richard Wagner’s many operas decorated the walls – King Ludwig was arguably his biggest fan.  And as quickly as our guided tour began, it ended, and we were released from the herds to meander through the unfinished bedrooms on the second floor of the castle.  After 17 years of tireless construction, the project was left unfinished following Ludwig II’s shocking death.  Many rumors still exist, but historians are still unsure as to whether the young dreamer was murdered or committed suicide after too many years of unkindly being nicknamed “Ludwig the Mad”.  The young king and his personal psychiatrist were both found drowned in a lake one day not long before his 41st birthday.

After touring each floor, I scampered outside on my own to snap some pictures from the front of the castle and from the one bridge that offers the other perfect view of the entire castle.  After making my way around the entire palace, I found mom and we began our descent down the hill to the village below once more.  There is not a bad time of year to visit the gorgeous castles hidden in the mountains of Bavaria, but I may be partial to the magic of a lushly green summer.

One more stop awaited us before our trip to our hotel for the evening – Hopfensee.  Just one of the hundreds of glacial lakes and rivers that color the Bavarian countryside, the stunning lake boasts little sailboats and a host of wonderful wildlife.  Much like the Alpsee, I wish I could have stayed there forever.  There is nothing quite like the perfect stillness and peace that the little lake offered.  If you pass by, stop and get out of your car and just sit there in perfect silence, taking every ounce of beauty in.

We made it to our hotel for the evening in Oberammergau and enjoyed an exploratory stroll around the quaint little town before we settled in for dinner with the rest of our group.  I’ve only known these traveling companions of mine, besides Doc and my Mom, for about two weeks and yet I could not imagine a better group to have toured around Europe with. I cannot believe we only have one more day until we leave this magic of Europe and fly back to the states and our respective homes.  After deciding on the daily special with far too much food than a human should consume, we gathered together in one of the suites and had a wonderful evening devotional and time of recollection on the mercies and blessings of the Lord.  We considered what it truly meant to be blessed in the sight of God from Psalm 1-2 and spent a wonderful evening of fellowship together with our sweet new friends.

The cool of night had settled on our little bed and breakfast at the base of the Alps and it seemed if we were right back where we began our amazing trip, surrounded by lush green mountains with friends by our side and the sound of nature rustling around us.  Many of these days will be permanently emblazoned in my memory and imagination, but I truly hope I never forget this day or these kind friends who have traveled the world with me.

[themusiciantraveler]

A Trip Down the Rhine

Saturday.  June 2, 2018.

 The day started rudely early as we had had quite a late night the evening before, but 7:30am it was, and we were at the front door after a rushed but wonderful breakfast. We walked out to be greeted by a new van – shiny and black all over.  We began by investigating the new steed, which somehow seemed to have more leg room even though the van was most certainly smaller (we ended up downsizing from a 17-passenger to a 14-passenger).  But alas, we started to load the new van, hoping all the luggage would fit in the back.  By some magic, we somehow made it all fit with sheer willpower and Tetris skills. We won this morning’s round of Tetris and finally around 8:30 we were on the road in our shiny, new van.

We drove quite a while before we next stopped for gas, where we all proceeded to the nearest Rewe (another lovely grocery story) for snacks and such for the road.  After our stop, we headed on to Bonn and Beethoven’s childhood home.  Our little trip up to the north of Germany took us along the beautiful Rhine River.  Trains wound around the mountainside to our right and boats glided along down the river on our right.  The views were absolutely picturesque as we passed castle after castle through the countryside.

We finally arrived in Bonn, one of the many cities Beethoven called home, after one more brief pit stop and another small nap.  Bonn once used to be the capital of West Germany, however, today the once important city in the hierarchy of German culture is rather modern and messy.  But suddenly, in the middle of all the chaos, the crowds seemed to magically part to reveal a petite pink building in the midst of the hustle and bustle of the grey, industrial city – Beethoven’s birthplace and home.  We entered the home and were greeted by instruments and artifacts from the composer’s life.  After a brief run-in with a disgruntled tour guide over my camera, we finally entered the main house.  A note and fair warning: if you see or hear “Fotoapparat” or “Kamera”, be prepared to put your camera away, lest they confiscate it in some of the older monuments.

I was almost in tears seeing Beethoven’s compositions and furniture, and my heart nearly stopped when my eyes settled on his famous Heiligenstadt Testament.  Tears sprung to my eyes as I pondered this document that spoke to how miserable the deaf musician was towards the end of his life – how broken-hearted he was in the twilight years of his life after all but losing his precious connection to music.  We finished our tour with Beethoven’s very own pianos – I just wanted to stay there forever and cry.

We then went into yet another adorable gift shop where I decided to purchase a miniature bust of this favorite composer of mine.  At the last minute, I decided to flip through the stacks of Henle-Urtexts they had on hand. Now Henle-Urtexts are the nicest scores on the market and are the closest thing to the original manuscripts that we have access to today.  And what do you know, the very first score I pulled out was my own Sonata in F minor (Op 2 No 1) that I have been working on for my senior recital!  It was almost like it was drawn to me.  I just could not resist and ended up purchasing it for less than ten Euros.  I left on cloud nine as we attempted to find Michael and the car.

We got on the road to Cologne and another stunning cathedral.  We arrived the description of the cathedral did not do it any justice. The Cologne Cathedral is 240 feet tall and the stained-glass windows contain enough glass to fill over three entire football fields.  The cathedral was simply breathtaking and honestly beyond words.  The crowds surged through the place of worship and filled the hallowed halls, with voices echoing off the high vaulted ceilings.

We soon had to rush back to the van and were soon on our way to Rothenberg ob der Tauber, passing up Worms due to time.  Rothenberg ob der Tauber, not to be confused with simply Rothenberg, is a cute, but large walled-in city from the Middle Ages.  In fact, it is the oldest walled-in city from that time period that is still standing today.  They are world famous for their Christmas shops and souvenir markets.  It took just shy of five hours to get there, but it was well worth the drive.  The quaint little town was absolutely picture perfect at dusk and the most beautiful and relaxing end to quite a long day.

We wandered around the city for some time before we finally found everyone after they had all meandered off and stopped for dinner at one of the last few places that were still open.  The food was some of the best food we have had the whole trip.  I had veal tenderloins, smothered in gratineed cheese, over a bed of spätzle and wild mushroom ragu.  The restaurant was also featuring a fresh white asparagus (spargel) soup, which was absolutely delicious and tasted like heavenly melted butter.  After dinner, Jenessa and I wandered down the street to get ice cream for dessert and ended our day with one last little bit of exploration around the city wall in the moonlight.

I highly recommend that you visit Rothenberg ob der Tauber at either dawn or dusk.  The city is absolutely stunning and picturesque when bathed in the early morning or last rays of the day and is far less crowded than when it is filled tourists during the middle of the day.  Plan to allow enough time to visit the famous Christmas shops and enjoy a stroll around the city in the pale sunlight.  No matter the time of day, enjoy an ice cream cone from the shop in the heart of the city with the Italian flag over its window display.  It is never too early or too late for ice cream.

[themusiciantraveler]

A Mighty Fortress

Friday. June 1, 2018.

 I can’t believe we only have a few days left!  These last few weeks have honestly felt like a wonderful dream.  The morning came cool and early with a gentle rain. We tried to get ready in time to walk through the square and grab a coffee and pastries, but we dawdled a bit too much in the sleepy morning drizzle and we barely made it to breakfast with enough time to eat before we had to pack up the van once more to depart Weimar.  So, we left the sleepy little town of Weimar for the neighboring fortress castle of Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany.

Not long into the drive I dozed off again…perhaps these German allergy pills I purchased in Berlin are not non-drowsy like their American counterparts. Nevertheless, the gentle rain made for a peaceful soundtrack to yet another one of my van naps.  Not long after, we arrived with Wartburg rising high above us as we struggled to find a parking space suitable for the van.  Once at the base of the mountain, we decided to take the long and winding way up via ramps and staircases cut into the side of the hillside.  If you are not in the best of shape and struggle with being at an altitude, I would recommend taking the shuttle bus that the castle offers for a 2-Euro fee.

So, we huffed and puffed our way up the multitude of stairs as the world around us became more and more lushly green.  Finally, the endless stairs gave way to the most gorgeous view of the entire valley and town beneath us.  It was as if the world was at our feet and the heavens were above us as the castle loomed high overhead amidst the clouds – a true vision gilded in hues of forest greenery.  Certainly well-worth the mildly exhausting hike up the hill.

There is only one English tour of Wartburg Castle each day at 1:30pm and must be reserved in well in advance.  So, with such an early morning start, we had roughly two hours to meander around the castle grounds before the beginning of our tour.  So, before we began looking around, we stopped at one of the little cafés nestled beneath the castle drawbridge.  We treated ourselves to a traditional German lunch of bratwurst and sauerkraut in the crisp early afternoon air.  After our delicious lunch, we grabbed a coffee and headed up the last bit of the hill to the entrance of the castle.

White doves and children circled around the fountains that filled the first courtyard after the drawbridge entrance, almost transporting us into the Disney movies of my childhood.  Stunning architecture greeted us as we made our way through the entrance of the infamous stronghold that kept Luther safe for so many months.  The first courtyard gave way to the entrance to the main and central courtyard, creating a natural wind tunnel through the passageway – the perfect cooling effect for the strenuous hike up the mountainside. Another stunning view greeted us as the mighty fortress opened up into the large center of life with its original well still functioning.

We flitted away our remaining time looking out over the vistas and enjoying the light breeze that flowed through the adjoining courtyards.  We soon began our tour in the oldest part of the palace, which dates back to the 12th century.  We climbed up through multiple floors, each becoming more elaborate and just the slightest bit lighter as we finally reached an above-ground level and the thick, weather-proof windows began to let in just the faintest bit of light from the outside world.  We learned of the duke who had the castle originally built, the patron saint and formerly ruling Duchess Elizabeth who inspired its hospitable nature, and the royal family who later had it rebuilt and decorated in all its current glory in the 19th century.  We climbed more sets of stairs (you should begin to sense a pattern here) and ended our official guided tour in the Great Hall that once housed many an opera – most notably, Richard Wagner.  Today, this magnanimous setting is used for Eisenach’s local high school graduation ceremony.

We then entered the main gallery of the castle which is home to one of the largest collections of artifacts in Europe – a collection that is continually growing because the descendants of the original family still pursue the preservation of history.  We soon traveled down a set of stairs and around some low, narrow corridors before arriving at possibly the most famous room in the entirety of Wartburg Castle – Martin Luther’s room.  The famous Reformation hero spent ten months hiding in protection after being excommunicated from the Catholic church of Europe.  During this time, he translated the entirety of the New Testament into modern German in just ten short weeks!

Wartburg Castle may be my absolute favorite thus far.  We were not rushed, our guide was incredibly knowledgeable and kind, and the locale was simply beautiful and breathtaking.  We finished our tour around the mighty fortress in the gift shop (where every tour seems to end nowadays) and headed back down the hill into town, and toward the Bach-Haus.  We began our tour of the infamous Bach-Haus with a mini concert on the house organ, small church organ, clavichord, and two different types of concert harpsichords by the museum’s resident Bach scholar. Sarah played with incredible dexterity and skill and very kindly answered all of the audience’s questions.

We then ventured into Bach’s home and world to take a look back into his daily life. The threadbare, wooden rooms featured many of his original instruments and stories about his students, wives, and admirers throughout the years.  We took a look at how his music changed over the years and the impact he had on the cities he lived in during his lifetime.  We ventured further into town, following Doc and Michael until mom and I decided to sit down and wait for the rest of the group to return.  Michael finally brought us the van and we got on the road towards Frankfurt and our hotel for the evening.

But, unfortunately, what was supposed to be a two-hour drive soon turned into a four-and-a-half-hour journey as the van started to slow down more and more.  Our brief restroom stop soon turned into a dinner break as Michael realized that we would need a new van in the morning.  So, after our lovely little dinner and hunt for new magnum bar flavors, we got back in the van for the long haul to Frankfurt. The lush green landscape contrasted the beautiful pink and orange sunset as we crossed the remaining countryside. By the time we finally made it into the city and our hotel for the evening, it was nearly 11pm – bless Michael and his hard work.

[themusiciantraveler]

Felix, Fanny, and the White Swan

Thursday.  May 31, 2018.

 We started with another gloriously late morning due to the fact that the Mendelssohn-Haus didn’t open until 10am.  So, I spent my extra time rearranging my suitcase into its perfect puzzle pieces and closed it with a triumphant zip as I trotted down the stairs to breakfast, which was as per usual absolutely amazing.  And soon, we were off to the home and museum of Felix and Fanny Mendelssohn. We entered the world of the Romantic composer and soon were learning all about their family history and daily lives. We wandered from room to room, reading panels of information and marveling at exhibits until we got to an interactive room where you could conduct one of Felix’s many compositions – this museum is certainly a must if you stop in Leipzig.

We each took a turn, changing tempi and dynamics as we waved our arms around in the air – looking rather amusing to the common passerby.  After conducting several of his well-known symphonies and concertos, we turned another corner and began to climb the original oak staircase from when Felix and Fanny spent their adult lives in Leipzig.  Their three-story apartment smelled of oak and old manuscript paper, and even hundreds of years later seemed to hold the same importance it did when the Romantic era was in its height.  We climbed the stairs we were soon immersed into Felix’s everyday life as the second story opened up into an airy, pastel salon with a golden grand piano, sitting beneath a shimmering chandelier.

Doc once more sat down at the piano, this time playing on a beautifully crafted Bosendorfer.  His repertoire featured works such as Grieg’s Notturno, several personal hymn arrangements, and even “A Mighty Fortress” – the Reformation battle hymn that Luther penned the words to accompany Mendelssohn’s favored tune that is featured in one of his most well-known symphonies.  Like all the others we had the privilege of playing on earlier in the trip, it was a simply stunning instrument; I would honestly move to Europe just for the quality of their pianos I think.

We finally ventured up to the third and final floor and into Fanny’s well-documented world of light.  Her study today boasts hundreds of the letters she sent to her brother, Felix, and several of her well-detailed dairy pages that she kept throughout her lifetime. Perhaps my next project will be to research her correspondence with her brother and her journaled life, for even just the small bit we got to see utterly fascinated me.  Her talented, yet short life is something that has always fascinated me and to get to spend even a little time in her world simply took my breath away.

After we finished our museum tour, we darted across the main street (dodging cars and trains along the way) in the pursuit of making it to one of Leipzig’s most prominent universities and concert halls – the Gewandhaus.  Our group then split up, with half deciding to hunt down another famous cathedral and the other half sitting for lunch at a small café near the concert hall.  I highly recommend the burger place located in between Leipzig University and the Gewandhaus – the prices are affordable, and they have absolutely fantastic sweet potato fries.  While we enjoyed our simple lunch, we started up a conversation with our waitress, who we came to find out went to high school with one of my best friends back home in Quartz Hill, California!

The other half of our traveling companions soon returned, and we entered the Gewandhaus for our tour.  Incidentally, we did not end up even going on the tour because there was a concert rehearsal going on for the next hour and a half and there would be no more English tours for the rest of the day.  Once again, I recommend inquiring in advance at your must-see locations to see when tours are, how much they are, and if they offer English-specific tours at any point during the day.

So instead, we piled back into the van and headed toward Erfurt and the cloister where Martin Luther had his infamous St. Anne moment in the midst of a lightning storm and came to see the saving light of Christ.  On our way to Erfurt, the van began to experience more and more difficulties – at one point we were only going about 60 kilometers an hour, drastically slower than the 100 kilometer an hour speed recommendation for buses.  So, after more delays, we finally made it to the infamous city just as the forecasted afternoon rain began to pour down. We drove in more circles around the rain-slicked city, in search of the correct church (you would be surprised at how similar they all end up looking).  So, we ventured out into the rain, with fearless curiosity, in search of more of Luther’s humble beginning.

We hurried back to the van not long after and were soon on our way to Weimar and our next stop for the night.  Our lovely evening began with a trip to Franz Liszt’s home turned museum.  Pianos, artwork, decorative desks, and personalized canes adorned his chandelier-filled home and teaching studio.  The dark green walls held decades of stories of the infamous master classes he held for his students and the rousing discussions he held with many of his compositional and teacher counterparts.  A beautiful park opens up right outside his doorstep, offering quaint walking and bike trails for locals and tourists alike.  We wandered through the lush park and into the main square in search of Michael and our hotel.

We finally found both and checked in for the evening with just one thing on all our minds – dinner. After watching children and dogs chase pigeons through the heart of the fountain-filled square, we settled on Zum Weissen Schwan – “The White Swan”. This inn and restaurant dates back to the mid-16th century and has hosted guests such as Goethe and Cranach among its famous clientele.  If you are there in the Summer, I recommend trying the fried dumplings with mushrooms, the schnitzel with cucumber salad and dill, or the locally raised beef roulade with beet salad.  Sit outside and enjoy the evening and the sounds of the small city and main square around you.  After dinner, Amy and I strolled down the rest of the square in search of ice cream for our dessert before settling in for a restful night of sleep in beautiful Weimar.

[themusiciantraveler]

Traveling Through the Time of Our Lives

Wednesday.  May 30, 2018.

 We began with yet another wonderfully late morning – almost 9am!  What a thought!  Breakfast was absolutely wonderful, and I even got to make myself a lovely pot of tea, the perfect, soothing cure for my aching throat and rapidly forming cough. Our hotel had piles of fresh bread and baskets of sweet pastries accompanied by fresh honeycomb.  Our breakfasts definitely getting better and better as we travel further through Europe, giving us the perfect start to our incredibly full days of roaming.  After breakfast, we then headed into Eisleben, the place of both Luther’s birth and death, with the promise of heavy storms hanging humidly in the morning air. We reached Eisleben and Luther’s birthplace, touring his home turned museum.  Not long after we arrived, we were out into the town once more – Doc and Michael always seem to be in some sort of hurry, and we were soon heading through the adorable little town where Luther spent his early childhood.

We began at St. Anne’s, thinking it was actually St. Andrew’s, but once again without a map in hand, we had gotten slightly turned around for the umpteenth time on our trip.  But after we talked to a couple of the locals, we soon located St. Andrew’s – the place where Luther preached his very last sermon.  We spent some time in the church, reflecting on the words of the great church hero before wandering around town a bit more in search of a café for lunch.  Michael, ever the negotiator, got us all bowls of this incredible sausage and potato soup.  The simple broth was the perfect companion to the spice-filled sausage and tender potatoes – it was exactly the filling lunch we needed to make it through rest of our adventures for the day.  If you travel to Eisleben, find the little café with the red umbrellas that is run by the sweetest mother and daughter pair.

We each ordered our own drinks, from tea to milkshakes, to soda, to iced coffee.  Something unique about iced coffee in Europe is that it is not actually iced.  I am thoroughly convinced there is no ice in all of Europe, or if there is they have yet to discover the magical properties of solidified water.  However, the wonderful thing that makes iced coffee in Europe so incredibly decadent is that they use ice cream and whipped cream to both flavor and chill the fantastic concoction.  It is a tall glass with two scoops of smooth vanilla ice cream on the bottom, homemade chocolate syrup poured over top a slightly sweet cold brew blend, and freshly made whipped cream to top the divine drink that is finished with the lightest sprinkling of cocoa powder.

After our refreshing lunch, we all got back in the van to head to Mansfeld and the location of yet another one of Luther’s childhood homes.  But on the way back to the van we made one final stop at the museum of the home where Luther spent his final days.  Let me just say, do not waste the time it takes to go through the museum of his death place.  It was incredibly weird, creepy, and wildly theologically incorrect.  But thankfully we were off to Mansfeld soon enough, where we saw the home, school, and church that laid the foundation of the famous Reformer’s humble beginning.  After briskly touring around each of the sights of his childhood upbringing, we headed into Leipzig and back into the world of Baroque music history.

I napped all the way back into the heart of Leipzig, awakening only as we turned the corner to catch a glimpse of the top of St. Thomas Kirke – the church where Johann Sebastian Bach was music minister for nearly 27 years, and where Luther also preached many of his sermons during the middle stretch of his life. I could do nothing else but marvel at the history that happened in these hallowed, stained-glass filled halls. How many chorales and cantatas were performed in this very room, how many fugues and fantasies were given life because of the ideas that began in this very cathedral?  Even the organ at the back of the incredible cathedral was designed and made specifically for Bach and his notoriously complex compositions. At the very front of this monument to Baroque and Reformation history rests Bach’s tombstone and final resting place. The man who made so much of history and defined an entire era of music history lay right in front of me – a man who certainly feared God, signing many of his works “SDG”: Soli Deo Gloria.

Evening was just beginning as the sun began to sink behind the trees and lavender bushes, coloring the quickly darkening sky as a storm brewed in the distance.  We decided to hunt for our dinner in the nearby square as children played in the fountains filling the heart of the city.  Excited squeals and the sound of water splashing filled our ears as we picked an Italian restaurant nearby the fountains full of screaming children and settled down for our evening meal.  We enjoyed delicious pasta, pizza, and salad as the rain began to fall steadily on our umbrella-clad group.  What was at first a gentle and pleasant rain soon became an outright downpour as we scooted closer together in order to huddle under the protection of the outdoor dining umbrellas.  We finished our dinner slowly, attempting to wait out the sudden storm before we journeyed back to our hotel for the evening.  The rain finally subsided, and we strolled through the damp, puddle-filled streets on our way back to the van and our rooms for a cozy evening.

Mom and I curled up with some tea and chocolate from room service as we watched a few of our favorite episodes of “Gilmore Girls”.  I journaled details of the previous few days as we enjoyed a wonderful close to an even more wonderful day.  We were certainly sad to be leaving Leipzig and our lovely hotel in the morning, but the promise of Weimar loomed on the horizon.

[themusiciantraveler]

Wittenberg, Luther’s House

Tuesday.  May 29, 2018.

We slept in again this morning, but my health is definitely starting to feel like it’s fading and sliding downhill after the great abundance of Linden trees, cigarette smokers, and city air that populated the heart of Berlin.  Breakfast was rather disappointing, and soon we realized that the elevator in our multi-floor hotel was broken.  So, our slow morning soon got vastly more interesting as trudged up the stairs and prepared to haul our luggage down five flights of twisting, circle stairs.  Huffing, puffing, and sweating, with muscles already aching, we finally made it down to the ground floor with all of our suitcases.  We finally loaded up and left the bustle of Berlin for the beautiful quiet of Wittenberg.  Though the history was amazingly fantastic, if I am being candid, Berlin has unfortunately been my least favorite city thus far.  But maybe one day I will return to the capital of Germany and enjoy it yet.

We left the noise and grime of the city and headed for the gorgeous countryside once more.  The ride was warm but refreshing, as I spent much of it journaling, reading, and learning about Luther’s precious wife, Katherine – whom he affectionately called Katy.  We arrived in Wittenberg, but not before some car troubles began to manifest in our trusty little van.  Unfortunately, Michael says we may not be out of the woods yet and could possibly need a new van, but only time will tell.

Wittenberg can only be described as the city in my mind’s eye that represents all of Europe.  You pull up into a large square with the Schlosskirche on your right, towering in the sunshine, and rows of colored buildings and houses as far as the eye can see.  Colorful pennants and flags decorate the petite square that opens and extends to the rest of the peaceful town.  First, we walked around the picturesque square before entering the church where Luther preached many of his most famous sermons.  When you enter the church, you go down a simple flight of steps before being greeted by a stunning cathedral, bathed in colors from the gorgeous stained-glass windows that line the walls.  Down the long middle aisle lay Luther and Monthau’s graves.  As you go further, the alter and bishops’ seats culminate at the front of the beautiful house of worship where Luther preached so often.  Contrasting many of the monuments to Catholicism we have seen thus far, there was not a speck of gold leaf or any other adornments beside the flawlessly crafted stained-glass windows.  The dark wood gave a grounding effect to the place of worship that helped to lay the foundation of the Reformation through Luther.

We exited the church and were greeted by the door where Luther nailed his 95 Theses.  The original door has long since been replaced by an engraved set of panels with a translation of his infamous statements into modern German.  It was remarkable to stand where so much history began – changing the faith and foundation of the European hemisphere, and soon after the world at large.  We meandered down the city, past shop after shop toward the home of Luther and Katy.  We passed statues of Monthau and Luther until we finally reached Lutherhaus, where a simple courtyard opened up into a beautiful garden and fountain with a view of the house Luther and Katy made their home.

We toured the house, seeing artifacts and reading about how their lives changed the world, starting in their very own town.  We saw the first edition of Luther’s Bible, papal bulls, indulgences, and propaganda of various types.  And then the house aged for one single room – the room where Luther held his many infamous “table talks”.  We walked through the original hallway that opened to the very table, with all its knots and grooves, that Luther once gathered around with his friends to discuss the impending spiritual revolution.  We finished our tour with a look at the everyday life of the Luthers – from how they ran their kitchen, to how they changed the way produce and livestock was raised and gathered.

We returned through the postcard-esque town to another doner stand for another deliciously large lunch before we made our way back toward the van.  As we wandered down the picturesque streets, we were tempted by ice cream shop after ice cream shop.  We located another ATM and stopped to withdraw additional Euros for the remainder of our trip.  I highly recommend using ATMs or credit cards to avoid interacting with money changers – many banks offer international deals that cut out the fees involved in changing currencies.  Our final stop in Wittenberg was a water pump that draws from the initial underground water source that Luther designed for the city.  This corner of the main square boasts the best and coldest water we had had the entire trip (let me just say that Europeans do not believe in ice or flat water).

 After returning to the van, I knocked out once again on the way to Hallé (which we actually thought was going to be Eisleben, but the van decided we were going to go on a different path today).  When I awoke next, we were navigating more dangerously tiny streets on our way to Handel Haus.  We arrived where George Frederic Handel was born and lived a portion of his adult life.  We traveled back in time once more to the 1700s, seeing the scores of “Saul”, the “Messiah” and “Hallelujah Chorus”, and the “Royal Fireworks”.  We were greeted with many kinds of old music and instruments, and I even got to play on a clavichord and a harpsichord.

 Doc played around a bit, improvising in the Baroque style before we concluded with a look at Handel’s very own vast collection of instruments, including a pipe organ of his own design, and his daily schedule.  We left the home of the well-known composer and headed to Leipzig and our hotel for the next two evenings.  We had a delicious dinner at the hotel and a refreshing sorbet dessert before another wonderfully early evening.  Wittenberg was the perfect refresher after the stress and bustle of Berlin – a peaceful reminder of the true beauty of Europe.

[themusiciantraveler]

Berlin in a Day

Monday.  May 28, 2018.

    We got to steal a little extra sleep again this morning before we started off on yet another long day.  The weather promised to be hot as the sun rose high overhead.  We started our day in Trinity Cemetery where most of the Mendelssohn-Hensel family is buried. After trekking around to several unlocked gates, we finally made our way to find the scattering of headstones.  It is said that after Fanny died, her brother Felix’s health soon worsened, and he died of a broken heart just a few months later. The siblings were incredibly close and at times seemed like twins, so the death of his beloved older sister was utterly devastating to the Romantic composer.  Both composers even signed their works “F. Mendelssohn” — forever mystifying whose work was whose, but also helping Fanny to publish many of her manuscripts in a woman-silencing time.

    After Trinity Cemetery we headed into the heart of the city once more to Checkpoint Charlie.  This infamous gate sat between the German and American borders of the east and west sections of the city and fielded the most foreigners.  It was one of three main gates and crossing points between the east and the west: Alpha, Beta, and Charlie, each of the gates militantly controlled the four sectors of Germany. Today, the monument to the atrocities of Communism has become quite the tourist trap.  Beware when visiting the monument, do not get your passport stamped with the vintage collection of German signage they offer for several Euros a piece.  These fake, out of date stamps will actually invalidate your passport and keep you from leaving the country.

    After wandering around ground zero of Communism in Germany, we stopped for lunch at one of the local supermarkets — honestly, one of the best decisions you can make when traveling abroad.  After scouring the aisles for sustenance, we plopped down and stuffed ourselves with a combination of fresh fruits, sandwiches, pastries, and fun European juice drinks.  Once we were all sufficiently fed, we motivated to the longest remaining section of the Berlin Wall which stands at just under a mile long.  Most places in the capital have a section or two of remnants of the wall and museums often have small pieces, but there is nothing like this anywhere in the rest of the city, or the world.

    Panel after panel of murals blockaded across the city as far as the eye could see.  Some sections were covered in profanity, others honored long-lost celebrities, and others still remain blank.  But the stretch was quite a sight to see.  You can actually pay to be able to spray paint whatever you desire on some of the blank sections of the Wall — it will cost you, but you can say that you painted part of history.  Small gaps are present throughout the wall where you can walk through from the east to the west freely and see a clear view of the Spree River.  After our stop at the Wall, we went further into the heart of the city to a section nicknamed “Museum Island”.  This patch of land that sits in the middle of the Spree River (making it seem like an island) is home to seven different museums of varying histories and cultures — the Pergamon, Altes, Bode, DDR, Neues, German-History, and the Berliner Dom Cathedral.  They all sit in the same couple of square kilometers on the other side of Humboldt University and boast excellent examples of the history of Germany and the surrounding world.

    Michael dropped us off at the start of the museum walk and gave us three hours to meet back at the van.  Most of our group went to the Pergamon museum, which houses many Greek and Roman antiquities, but a few of us chose to venture further down the walk and see all the other museums and the Berliner Dom.  We snapped pictures and checked on ticket prices until we settled on the German History Museum.  Rick Steve’s travel books are once again great resources for finding out an approximation for ticket prices for almost every museum and landmark in the famous cities around the world.

    The German History Museum houses information and artifacts of the country from around 500-1994, including the Reformation, both World Wars, Communism, and everything in between.  We started in the Reformation and moved through to the 1800s, marveling at the sights they had to offer and the historical significance they held.  We continued quickly to the 1930s through the 1960s seeing things like Hitler's desk, war propaganda, army uniforms, chilling footage, and photographs of the horrific events that occurred in Germany in just 30 short years.  We meandered back towards the van, but not before stopping for ice cream along the way.

    We returned to the hotel for our earliest night yet, but not before a brief and exciting photo stop in which Amy and I followed Doc down an overgrown median in the heart of downtown Berlin just to capture a far away picture of the Kaiser Wilhelm Monument — a bombed-out church that still stands in memory of Kaiser Wilhelm and his dedication to Germany. After trampling through the weeds, we made it back to our hotel to freshen up before walking just a few feet to a Doner (flame broiled, thinly sliced meat in a middle eastern style wrap) street cart.  Much like falafel and shawarma, this incredibly filling dinner hit the spot and helped fuel us for our last adventure of the day in Berlin.

    I was getting quite sick at this point and am ironically extremely allergic to Linden trees (which of course are everywhere in Germany and Austria).  So, after searching high and low through several “drugstores” — just a note, drugstores in Europe are not the same as in America, they are really just glorified convenience stores — we finally found an international pharmacy that hopefully carried the medication I needed. After pantomiming to the pharmacist about needing allergy medication we grabbed some ice cream bars on the way back to the hotel and settled in for the night.

    SIDE NOTE: I would not recommend staying at the City Hotel am Kurfuerstendamm in Berlin.  Though it is perfectly located in the heart of the city, within walking distance of most anything you could want to visit, that was about the only good thing about it.  The rickety elevator rarely works, which will necessitate multiple floors of carrying your luggage, the bathrooms are rather perilous when taking a shower, and your hallway will either be creepily empty or full of rude neighbors who talk loudly until the wee hours of the morning.  It honestly reminded me of the hotel from The Shining.  The more modern hotels may be better located, but I promise that the smaller, family run inns will be much more hospitable and well worth your stay.

[themusiciantraveler]

For Whom the Bells Toll in Dresden

Sunday.  May 27, 2018.

    It was the first morning any of us have actually “slept in” since we departed the States at the beginning of our trip, and let me say that the extra bit of rest was much needed.  We once again stuffed our faces before heading into Dresden for a rainy Sunday morning.  We arrived in the heart of the city just as it started to sprinkle outside — the fog heavy as the sun began to peek behind the clouds.  The moment we stepped out of the van we instantly stepped back in time to the height of the 1800s with their grand balls and premiers of the latest Wagnerian opera.

   The towering sight of the Zwinger — a castle and fortress that ended up only being mere walls and a courtyard, turned into a porcelain and crystal museum — greeted us as we were transported to the era of late-Romanticism.  Fountains and gothic architecture graced the darkened grey skies, almost blending in together.  We were running late (as per usual with 14 other traveling companions) so we only had time for a brief walk through the courtyard before walking to the main square that opened up to the Semper Opera House.

   We stepped out into the courtyard of the Semper Opera House only to be greeted by a quartet of brass players performing a stunning Bach chorale.  The notes gracefully intermingled in perfect, genius harmony as the reverberated off the lofty corners of the surrounding architecture. After they cadenced their beautiful reverie we tipped the talented musicians and decided to try our luck with a song request – specifically the National Anthem of the United States of America.  They looked at us and then looked at one another before kindly acquiescing to our odd request – I’m certain they had never been asked to play the piece ever before based on their reactions.  But soon the familiar strains that bring hats off heads and hands to cover hearts began to drift through the courtyard.  Pride swelled in each of our hearts as we sang the lyrics that accompany the famous verses – the dictionary definition of juxtaposition as we took in the extremely European history around us.

The Elbe River flowed directly alongside the town square, hemming in the antique architecture that surrounded our world.  The rain began to pick up until it was falling steadily as we joined the queue to wait for the English tour of the opera house.  A small tip, plan to have at least two hours to spend on the tour — we only had about 45 minutes to spare before our next excursion, so we unfortunately only barely got to see the stage and stunning seating boxes in the heart of the opera house. Also, check the daily schedule if you are there on a weekend, there may be a performance or two going on and you will need to plan around them accordingly because all tours will stop 2 hours before curtain call.  Additionally, if you would like to take pictures of the magnificent marble columns and stunning chandeliers you will need to purchase a photo license at the beginning of the tour for a 3-Euro fee.  If you don’t, they will kick you out of the tour if you take any photographs.

    Just a few months before WWII ended the Allies bombed the living daylights out of Dresden, in retaliation for the loss of Coventry, completely destroying both the Semper Opera House and the Frauenkirche.  In fact, the opera house that was originally commissioned for infamous composer Richard Wagner, had been destroyed on 2 previous occasions (both times by fire) so the building we got to tour was actually the 3rd reincarnation of the magnificent performing arts center that architect Semper had originally envisioned. 

   We left the tour early and in a hurry as the 11 o’clock bells began to toll from the Frauenkirche just a couple blocks down.  There are three main services on Sundays: the 7am Mass, the 11am Lutheran service, and the 5pm English Presbyterian service.  And once the service begins, you are not permitted to enter the church late, so we ran for all our worth, making it to the doors just as the final bell tolled to signal a change in the hour.

    After being momentarily distracted by the beauty of the Frauenkirche, we finally located Doc and the row he had saved for us in the cathedral.  We stood as the priest called us to worship and praise.  Much of the service was spent looking around, counting and admiring details in order the stay awake because the entire service was in German! Every so often I would catch a word I recognized and my attention would be sparked before returning to my own thoughts. We participated in several traditional segments of a Mass, including the Kyrie and the Gloria, as well as call and response sections of the service.  The most amazing part of the service that I will never forget was singing hymns and the Lord’s Prayer in German.  Getting to worship alongside the fellow believers in our group in a different language was an incredible opportunity that just absolutely made my heart soar — certainly a once in a lifetime opportunity.

    After the service ended, we talked Doc and Michael into letting us have a 30-minute break to walk around town a bit more, grab lunch, and purchase some souvenirs before getting back in the van for another long drive.  We walked the picturesque square until we stopped at a quaint little cafe and bistro.  We ordered cappuccinos and several small pastry bites covered in cinnamon and sugar and enjoyed the sunshine and the sounds of a Sunday in Dresden, Germany. The coffee was smooth and rich, a perfect pairing with the light sugar-coated pastries — something I wish my mom and I could have after every Sunday church service, though I do prefer my service in English.

    After snagging some souvenirs for friends and a sandwich for the road, we headed back to the van through the Zwinger, the sun now high in the sky as we began our trek to the capital of Berlin. After yet another deep nap and several restroom stops, we finally arrived in the heart of Germany and our hotel for the next two evenings.  We were given a chance to freshen up before a few final outings in the slowly sinking sunlight.  We began at the Holocaust Museum and Memorial, after a few delays (as I’ve said before, maps are a useful commodity when traveling to a new place).  A piece of advice, use Rick Steve’s travel books as resources when researching what sights to see.  He often provides hours of operation and days that museums and other sights are closed. Something unique about Germany is that many museums are open on Sundays but are closed on Mondays, so by the time we finally arrived at the Holocaust Museum it had already closed for the evening and would not be reopening until Tuesday, by which time we would already be in another city.

    So instead, I took some time to ponder and think on all that had happened to the people of my heritage during those dark years of WWII.  The stunning and heart-stopping monument is designed on uneven ground with stone pillars of varying heights.  People walk in and out of the pathways that the pillars create, but because of the differing heights of the columns, it makes it appear as though people randomly appear and disappear in the midst of the monument. It is intended to create an atmosphere that reminds the onlooker of what it must have felt like to lose everyone around you, friends and family disappearing suddenly into the night either in escape or in hostage.  A frightening, yet nonetheless interesting, fact about the location of the monument is that it is less than a mile away from Hitler’s final stand, where he took his own life in his bunker.  The building no longer exists, but a plaque on the pavement will reveal the location.

    After taking a moment to slow down and think, we moved on through the city and just around the corner to the Brandenburg Gate – the starting point of the infamous Berlin Wall.  The sun was creeping closer and closer to the ground, streaking the sky in pale hues of orange, yellow, pink, and blue, providing a stunning backdrop to such a painful monument in history.  After an additional 2 miles of walking in search of Checkpoint Charlie, we finally convinced Michael to stop for dinner at the only place in sight.  We ordered as much as we could as fast as possible, seeing that we had only had a small meal since the early morning.

    A few final tips as our evening comes to a close.  I recommend indulging in the local cuisine of the country you are in — try new things that might scare you, I promise they will provide some of the best food you will eat on the entire trip.  And never travel without a map and research your closing times.  You will thank yourself later when you are not wandering around a new city blindly or have missed the only chance at seeing a museum or shop you had on your list of ‘must dos’.

[themusiciantraveler]

A Walk Amongst the Tombstones of History

Saturday.  May 26, 2018.

 The morning began in a cold sweat, accompanied by a severely sore throat. But breakfast out on the patio in the sunshine, accompanied by approximately 3 cups of tea, helped to lift my spirits and get me up and moving for our very full day in Prague.  After loading the van, we headed into the heart of the Old City.  Our first stop was the Vysehrad, Prague’s central cemetery on the outskirts of the city, where we proceeded on a scavenger hunt of sorts for the graves of Romantic Czech composers Antonin Dvorak and Bedrich Smetana.  After a great deal of sneezing and trekking in every wrong direction possible (Doc swears he knew exactly where he was going) we feasted our eyes on the most breathtaking view of the beloved city that spans either side of the infamous Moldau River.  We finally found a map and began to head in the correct direction toward the main gated section.  We stepped through a sturdy iron gate and immediately stumbled upon Smetana’s final resting place.  Low organ processional music drifted from the small cathedral in the heart of the cemetery and through the air as we searched high, low, and in between for Dvorak’s monument and grave.  This Bach toccata floated on the hot and humid air as we climbed through weeds and under scaffolding to finally be rewarded with the late-Romantic composer’s final resting place. 

After working our way back out of the cemetery, we went on another hunt for where Michael had parked the van and started off toward the bustling downtown of Prague and the St. Charles Bridge.  We inched through the city alongside the river as boats and swans alike sailed the waterway for which Smetana named one of his most famous Symphonic Poems.  We finally made our way to the heart of the city and got dropped off at the steps of Smetana’s home and museum.  After a few more wrong turns and some more wonderfully corny and colorful puns from Doc, we found an ATM that would let us withdraw coronas (the national currency of the Czech Republic). Word to the wise: never go to a money changer, they will certainly rob you blind with the lofty conversion fee that they charge in order to make a profit.  I highly recommend traveling with a debit card because you can go straight to a bank or ATM in any country and withdraw the amount of currency you need with a very minimal fee.

 Once finally entering the museum, we traipsed up the stairs to be greeted by the most stunning view of the Moldau River behind the most beautiful piano I have ever seen in my entire life. The magic phrase in Europe seems to be “piano professor”, for it has gotten our group into numerous amazing opportunities because of Doc’s position at the university.  This time, it meant that the museum staff asked Doc if he would like to play on the shining Petrof concert grand that sat before us.  His fingers seemed to float across the keys as the most beautiful tones came out of the ebony heart of the instrument.  It is without a doubt the most beautiful instrument I have ever heard in my entire life – there are not even words to describe how breathtaking it was to get to listen to such an instrument.  As Doc played, I continued to wander around the museum learning more about Smetana and his life and works.  Suddenly, I heard Doc calling my name and turned to look over my shoulder to see what his current request was.  But the next thing I know he was motioning for me to sit down at the piano and play something! This perfect, pristine, and sparkling instrument that sits before me and is the best piano I’ve ever seen or heard in my whole life and Doc is telling me to come sit down and play on it.

 So, when no words would come out of my mouth, I did the only thing I knew how – I sat down and played.  I recalled Chopin’s Waltz in A-flat Major from memory and began in awe as my fingers seemed to just glide across the ivory keys.  The waltz, written for his beloved fiancé, flowed and floated across the keys and through the room as I kept my eyes trained on the river and my ears trained on the familiar patterns.  The most indescribable feeling I have ever experienced came over me as I closed the piece with the last gentle cadence.  I looked up to find quite a crowd of people had gathered in the center of the museum to sit and listen to me play!  Surreal does not even begin to describe what it was like playing on that piano and simply getting lost in the love of music.  And as quickly as it had begun, it was over, and we finished the tour of the museum and stepped out into the afternoon heat at the edge of the St. Charles Bridge.

Sights, sounds, and smells overwhelmed us as we began our trip across the bridge.  I recommend you spend the few coronas it costs to climb to the top of one of the watchtowers on either side of the bridge – the view is well worth the extra steps and loose change. Musicians and bands played their instruments, vendors sold jewelry and paintings, and animal owners wound and unwound behemoth snakes around tourists throughout the length of the crossing. We finally made it the last little bit across the bridge and found ourselves in the heart of the West side of the Old City.  Our group spread out on our way up to the top of the city, in search of St. Vitus’ Cathedral and Prague Castle.  Shops and restaurants lined our path and we couldn’t help but stop in a few of them to purchase an ice cream cone and marvel at the finest examples of why Prague is called the “Crystal Capitol of the World” – these dazzling Bohemia crystals are known for their clarity and their size.

 We soon made it to what we thought was St. Vitus’ but actually turned out to be St. Nicholai’s before we realized that the “green-roofed castle” we were looking for was at the very top of what seemed to be two miles of stairs. Once again, I would recommend grabbing a map or two of the city you are exploring from your hotel in the morning in order to avoid confusion and perhaps to help make exploring a little bit easier.  Nevertheless, we started up the steep incline of never-ending stairs pausing only to wipe the sweat from our foreheads and attempt to catch our breath.  By some miracle we finally made it to the top of the stairs to find an expansive pavilion with a castle or mansion of some sort in every direction you looked – there is a reason why Prague is also known as the “Castle Capitol” of Europe.  We wandered around the top of the city in search of the correct castle before finding the mile-long line that led to the security checkpoint for Prague Castle.

 Live, armed guards patrolled the gated edge of the monument that is still home to the ruling class of the Czech Republic.  After locating the rest of our group, we were informed that we would not be entering the castle with the rest of the tourists due to time constraints (we only had time for one short day in Prague).  But I just couldn’t help myself, so I snuck past everyone through the massive crowds just to catch a fleeting glimpse of the stunning architecture of Prague Castle.  After weaving my way back through the masses to our little group, Michael retrieved us from the top of the city to take us down to the East side of the city to see the remaining sights of Prague.

 The iconic square holds the statue of Reformer Jan Hus, the Astrological Tower, and hundreds of intriguing little shops.  We took in all the sights on our way to the Bethlehem Chapel where Hus preached many of his sermons about the “white swan” that was to come and burn the Catholic faith to the ground – Martin Luther. It was mindblowing to think of the monumental changes that occurred in this simple building because of these brave and faithful men.

 One final stop remained for us in Prague before we left the stunningly beautiful Czech Republic to return to the heart of Germany – the home turned museum of composer Antonin Dvorak.  The simple two-story home boasted some of Dvorak’s most prized possessions and several copies of compositional manuscripts.  After climbing the spiral staircase up to the second story, I was shocked once again as I was asked to perform some more of the repertoire I had been working with on yet another stunning Petrof concert grand – this time a far more ornate white piano gilded in gold leaf.  Two pianos and large crowds in one day and my adrenaline was soaring uncontrollably. And on the closing notes of the final movement of my Beethoven sonata, we sadly left Prague behind us as we journeyed on to Dresden.  Another long drive was before us, but a day full of unforgettable memories and over 18,000 steps kept my tired body awake until the outskirts of Dresden and our home for the next evening.

 Perhaps one day I will return to the heart of Prague – a city that certainly holds part of my heart – and play on those gorgeous pianos once more and behold the unforgettable view of boats and swans gliding side by side through the Moldau River.

[themusiciantraveler]

Vienna in the Rain

Friday. 6:05am.  May 25, 2018.

 Though I was certainly not a happy camper when my body woke me up as early as it did, we packed up once again as we have every morning thus far and went down to breakfast.  Two cups of tea and plenty of wonderful pastries later, it was soon out the door and into the pouring rain with the promise of a marvelous adventure through the old city with Eric (TMU alumnus) as our trusty guide.  Michael dropped us off on a street corner just a few blocks from the well-known St. Stephen’s Cathedral and we began our trek through a rain-soaked old-town Vienna.

Construction began on the Stephansdom during the 12th century, and the cathedral is a must see when traveling through Vienna. The infamous cathedral boasts the second-largest free-swinging chimed church bell in all of Europe, and its roof is comprised of colorful tiles that were laid to create the Royal and Imperial double-headed eagle coat of arms of the city of Vienna.  The interior of St. Stephen's Cathedral has been changed time and again throughout the centuries, helping to seamlessly transition the place of worship through the varying style periods and eras.  Numerous important figures chose St. Stephen's Cathedral as their final resting place, including Emperor Friedrich III who was buried in an impressive marble sarcophagus at the back of the cathedral.  Many others were buried in the catacombs under St. Stephen's including Habsburg Duke Rudolph IV, who laid the foundation stone for the Gothic reconstruction of the cathedral in 1359.  Additionally, the graves of many of Vienna’s prominent archbishops and cardinals can be found in the catacombs.

St. Stephen’s was absolutely picturesque in the pouring rain, the perfect blend of Gothic and Baroque architecture once more made to sparkle by the falling mist — like it was new again. After walking around the entirety of the cathedral, we finally located the entrance and made our way through the throngs that filled the stained-glass halls.  And as quickly as we had entered, were back out into the downpour after reverently passing through the ancient place of worship.  Unless you are willing to pay the 14-Euro fee, it will suffice to see the outside and look around a bit – you can clearly see the entire venue without needing to walk all the way through the richly decorated halls.

We walked up and down streets, through the steady rainfall, learning about the first coffee shops to come to Europe from Spain, the old walls that once protected the still infamous city, various Reformation history, and several of the original German street names until we reached Stadt Park and the iconic Johann Strauss Statue.  After posing for several photographs to send home to the university to let them know of our travels, we headed further into the heart of the city toward the Beethoven Platz and a statue of one of my favorite composers.  We continued on, through the rain, walking past the Vienna Concert and Opera Houses — highlights of the city’s stunning architecture.  Next, we passed the Bosendorfer and Steinway piano factories and walked past several old ballrooms and music houses that once were filled with the colorful tones of the centuries.  If you have the chance, take the time to travel cities by foot – the views are well worth the extra steps and provide wonderful surprises around every street corner.

After our adventure around the heart of the city, we eventually found Michael and dashed across the busy streets before finally heading to the Haydn Haus, where Haydn resided for the last twelve years of his life. It was surreal walking where the practical joker and amazing Classical composer had lived out the last of his days.  I almost started to well up as I thought of the man whose pieces has brought me so much joy throughout my musical studies. Copies of the Classical composer’s Creation and Seasons manuscripts resided in the house as well as a handful of stories detailing his philanthropic tendencies and tales of his concerts and love of his craft.  But perhaps my favorite story that we learned in our time in his home was a shocking story about his head being stolen from his grave and dissected just three days post-mortem!  Eventually, the head was returned to the estate with little consequence for the thieves.

After Haydn Haus, we said goodbye to Eric and headed on our way to Central Cemetery — the resting place of at least a dozen well-known composers such as Beethoven, Mozart, Strauss, and Liszt.   We somehow ended up at the wrong end of the expansive cemetery – there are 14 gates surrounding the several square mile graveyard – but eventually, we wound our way around to the correct entrance.  Once we located the correct section in the cemetery, we were greeted with miniature monuments to the lives of Brahms, Strauss, Beethoven, Wolf, Schubert, Mozart, and many others.  I thought Forest lawn in California was big, but this place was huge!  And the tombs and monuments were so exceedingly over the top. But yet still, as I stood before the graves of men who had not loved God, but were still blessed beyond belief, I found myself contemplating the frailty of life and the fleetingness of earthly fame and fortune.  These men had done great things, but here they lay with every other common man, nothing special and still long gone like the rest of the world.

After the cemetery, we headed towards the idyllic Prague — a 6+ hour drive away from the glittering heart of Austria.  After snagging lunch from a Hoffer’s, the German (and original) version of an Aldi’s supermarket, we were finally on the road for the long haul with pastries, pretzels, fruits, and Topfin streusels in tow.  Many of us fell asleep again on the ride until we were gently awakened in a sunny little village with the promise of a surprise from an old acquaintance of Michael’s.  We parked the van and entered an adorable cafe where we were fed ice cream with real, homemade whipped cream and the best coffee I’ve ever had.  I honestly have no idea where we stopped, or what city we were in, but I wish I had gathered these precious bits of information so that someday I could return to the idyllic little shop and enjoy afternoon ice cream and coffee with the gentle man and his fiery grandchildren.

After our brief stop, we got on the road again toward the heart of the Czech Republic.  I fell asleep again only to be woken at a gas station where we were attempting to get a new toll tag box for the dash, this time for the Czech Republic.  The country formerly known as Czechoslovakia has just recently implemented the toll system and has yet to iron out the kinks so be warned, it is not an easy trip if you are traveling with more than ten people in your party.  Long story short, we essentially ended up WAY off the map due to highway construction, detours, and one impossible to find toll tag.  Three hours behind schedule and four different gas stations later, and Michael was attempting to contact someone who could translate German to Czech and vice versa so we could finally get our hands on the toll tag that we needed to travel through the country.

It was finally around 8:30pm and almost nothing was open for dinner except for a sketchy European McDonalds and a random steakhouse called “Jack’s” that we convinced ourselves looked rather promising.  To our surprise, this little-known steakhouse, far off the beaten path and just over the Austria-Czech Republic border, ended up being one of our best meals yet!  The quaint restaurant and pub offers huge serving sizes and excellently grilled protein – but be warned, they only take cash, and they only take coronas (the national currency).  But all things aside, the service was wonderful and some kind strangers at the neighboring table helped us order off the completely Czech menu (which involved a hilarious game of charades involving an attempt at pantomiming a deer, complete with antlers).  After dinner, we drove an additional two and a half hours to our hotel where we finally stumbled sleepily up the stairs and into bed.  It was certainly an adventure and I am quite glad everyone was given an extra measure of patience for our day full of exciting escapades.

[themusiciantraveler]

The Long, Long Road to Vienna

Thursday.  May 24, 2018.

 The morning was cold and sleepy, the type that makes you want to curl back up and never move, but 6:30am rolled around I was awake once more.  Breakfast was incredible once again – seriously, you haven’t truly had breakfast until you’ve had one in Europe, there’s no going back.  We packed up and were on the road to see some final sights in Salzburg.  Our very first stop was the Hellbrunn Palace — the place where they filmed most of the Sound of Music!  The yellow gates and walls were unmistakable as we walked down the long gravel lane towards the palace terrace.  As the gravel crunched softly under my trusty Birkenstocks, I could hear a faint echo floating across the grounds of children laughing and singing the iconic “Do Re Mi”. After snapping enough pictures to fill a mural, we headed across the expansive grounds to see what we could find. Lakes and ponds covered the tree-lined landscape; fountains and bridges stretched as far as the eye could see, a gentle mist covering my glasses.

As we rounded another foggy, foliage-lined lane we came upon the hidden gem of the entire palace grounds.  THE gazebo from The Sound of Music!  We were standing right where Liesl and Rolph danced in from the rain, waxing on about their teenage years.  I couldn’t believe my eyes!  One of my favorite childhood movies was standing right in front of me.  We twirled right and left, wishing with all my heart that I could have gone inside the gazebo and jumped from bench to bench, performing the iconic choreography myself.  But alas, the monument to Rogers and Hammerstein was protected by several locks.

After one final longing glance, we loaded back on the bus and soon arrived at St. Michael’s in Mondsee, Austria — the church where the Captain married Maria in the movie adaptation.  It was breathtakingly beautiful but so heartbreaking to think of all the lost souls who have worshipped there.  After wandering around and remembering that iconic wedding scene, we bought souvenirs for friends and loved-ones and continued down the house-lined row for lunch on-the-go.  We munched on ham and cheese sandwiches on freshly baked baguette and wandered back down the idyllic road.  After just one more excursion into a shop on the way back to the van, we were swiftly back on the road once more.

Our next stop was Melk Abbey — a famous sight and gorgeous remainder of the Hapsburg empire.  As the rain began to pour more steadily, we entered the large grounds with only 30 minutes to make it through the entire Abbey.  But honestly, it was completely worth it despite the time constraint.  Even if you have just a short amount of time, this is a must-see while in Austria!  We breezed through exhibits and traipsed across terraces, winding up and down staircases through the goldenrod palace.  We read history on the Abbey and the bishops and popes that served there until we laid eyes on the most beautiful library I have ever seen.  We stood surrounded by some of the greatest books in history, in awe of the history that filled the halls we walked through.  Through the windows of the stunning library, we were graced with a perfect view of the Danube River as it wound through the Austrian countryside.  We wandered outside, taking in the beautiful view and breathing in the fresh air. Following another set of stairs, we descended into the main worship sanctuary.  WOW!  I have never seen anything like it in my entire life.  Straight out of the Baroque era, the ceilings and walls were gilded with the most ornate paintings and architecture, reaching seemingly into the heavens they were trying to worship.  We trod carefully through the room as worshippers prayed quietly around us.  I stood still in awe of the beauty before me — my own worship being silently lifted to the God of the heavens.  Somehow, our time had run out, so I solemnly took one more stroll through the main terrace before booking it up the stairs and out to our van, but not before I snapped some perhaps less than legal pictures of the stunning sights.

As we left Melk Abbey most of us fell into a deep slumber, unable to keep our eyes open...that is until we were awoken on the side of the road after being pulled over by the European version of highway patrol. Apparently, we were not informed that driving through Austria in a vehicle of more than ten people necessitates a special pass that works similar to an American toll tag.  So, after much discussion, Michael found out that we would need to pay a 500 Euro fine and then travel to a nearby gas station to pay an additional fine in order to load our ‘toll tag’.  We followed the highway patrol off of the Audubon and arrived at the nearest gas station to pay our subsequent fines.  As we sat and waited for the pass to be loaded, we ventured into the gas station to use the restroom and purchase some snacks — for which we were assessed a 50-cent euro fine to use the facilities.  Our first, but certainly not last pay-to-go establishment we would encounter.  And yes, you read that correctly.  Europe is infamous for requiring payment to use the restrooms.  And needless to say, they aren’t the nicest about it all. Fair warning my friends; Bring lots of change.  And learn to plan your liquid consumption strategically.  I promise you’ll thank me later.

After our brief detour, we finally got back on the road and continued on to Vienna.  Many hours and another nap later, we finally made it to Vienna — four hours later than planned.  But as my father says “the world is round.  You’ll get there when you get there.”  Because of the delays we incurred along the way, we missed meeting up with an alum of TMU that had taken the train down to meet us and instead spent roughly twenty minutes driving around in circles trying to find a different local alum that lives just outside the city.  We finally located and picked up Eric (the aforementioned alum) and headed on to our hotel for the evening.

After we checked into our hotel, we walked a few kilometers from our hotel and found the perfect little Austrian restaurant.   Das Chadim was the ideal location for a relaxing, traditional Viennese supper after a long and tiring day. The entire meal was to die for, but the proverbial cherry on the top was the chocolate mousse we had for dessert — the best dessert I’ve had in my entire life.  The creamy, fluffy concoction was topped with something akin to magic shell and provided a dark chocolate bowl for the amazing dessert when flipped upside down.  Accompanied by fresh whipped cream, brûléed bananas, and fresh strawberries, I never wanted to forget the smooth taste of the cooling dessert that almost instantaneously melted as soon as you brought the spoon to your mouth.  We finally settled in for the night after a short walk through a gentle rain with the promise of another early morning ahead of us.

[themusiciantraveler]

A Mountain Fortress and a Marble Hall

Wednesday.  6:33 am.  May 23, 2018.

 I’ve never been an early riser or a happy riser, but I’d choose to wake up before 7am any day if it meant waking up to the view that filled the wall of window peeking behind the red-checkered and lace curtains that lined our quaint room.  Bavaria is the stuff of dreams – rolling hills as far as the eye can see, incessantly twittering birds, cows and sheep lumbering through the fields behind our little guest house.  Lace curtains framed our sunlit morning daydream, starting our day in a gauzy haze.  As the wildlife woke around us, bells tolled from the churches that were nestled in the hills that the Ochsenwirt Gastof calls home. Our day only got better as we packed up and headed down the road to the main house for breakfast.  Let me tell you, if you want to have the best breakfast of your life, go to Europe – specifically, Germany.  Piles of meats and cheeses, baskets overflowing with bread, mountains of fruit and yoghurt, platters full of fresh veggies, and carafes full of coffee, tea, and homemade hot cocoa.  You couldn’t help but keep eating.  I’m still not sure how I was able to eat so much (a question I continued to ask myself for the remainder of our trip) but certain I was going to eat my weight in bread by the time we left Europe at the end of 2 weeks.  After sufficiently stuffing ourselves, we loaded up the van to head to a surprise destination – the best kind of destination, if you ask me.

We slowly wove our way back and forth across the Germany/Austria border, stopping on the side of the road to twirl through the fields like Maria in The Sound of Music, taking pictures of the most stunning lakes you’ve ever seen, and stopping to get water and chocolate bars at a little country grocery shop.  After our brief errands and photo ops, we finally settled back into Germany after many winding roads and arrived at our surprise destination – the shuttle stop for Hitler's Eagles Nest, nestled in the mountains above Berchtesgaden, Germany.

Here’s a little history about one of the little known but must-see spots in Germany.  Martin Bormann was known for his massive architectural projects, but this enormously difficult project was colossal, even for him.  This particular creation had an important deadline: Hitler's 50th birthday in April of 1939. The project began in April of 1937, a gift from the Nazi party to their favored leader.  Construction of the mountain fortress was only accessible by a steep access road and a 400-foot elevator shaft inside the mountain.  This ambitious stronghold was worked on by over 3,000 men who worked day and night, winter and summer, for 13 months straight in order to complete the undertaking. The road that led parties up to the lofty fortress was blasted out of the mountainside, passing through five tunnels to get to the entrance of the Kehlsteinhaus, or Eagle’s Nest.

Our trek up the mountainside boasted a 20-minute bus ride up an alarmingly steep road until we had finally arrived at the tunneled entrance to the Führer’s most favorite fortress.  It was eerie walking where he had, feeling the rush of power and awe from literally being on top of the world.  The stone tunnel echoed as tourists filled up the halls that once led the rich and famous of Germany and the Nazi party up to Hitler’s fortress of solitude.  But after riding the gilded elevator to the top of the stronghold, the view was like nothing you’ve ever seen in your life and well worth it all.  Mountain ranges topped with snow as far as the eye can see and the world at your feet 1,862 meters below.  Words cannot even begin to describe the view or the feeling such beauty gave, but I don’t think I’ll ever forget that view.  I hiked as far up as you could and just stood there beholding God’s glory – the wind whipping at my curls, the clouds and fog rolling in overhead, the rocks slippery beneath my feet.  Every sense alive as my heart pounded audibly in my veins.

I recommend you stand there, soaking it all in, capturing every glorious moment in your mind’s eye.  Eat lunch at the terrace café – I’d get the goulash if I were you, it’s hearty and filling and comes with fresh bread that’s just to die for.  Throw a snowball at someone, preferably someone you know – I promise there will still be plenty of snow there in the middle of June. Take a deep breath and bask in the awe that has drawn guests from far and wide since it’s construction.  If you’re feeling adventurous, you can hike down the mountain through the gloriously green forest that clothes the mountainside.  And after you’ve finally reached the bottom, head into the small shop at the base of the mountain and treat yourself to an ice cream cone before you get on the road again.

After our adventure on the top of the world, we finally headed across the border for our first of two days in Austria.  Our very first stop was Salzburg — the home of most of the filming of Rogers and Hammerstein’s The Sound of Music.  This famed city was home to not only the musically gifted Von Trapp family but the renowned Classical composer, Mozart as well. First, we toured some sights around the heart of the city, walking along the Salzach River before heading to the house where Mozart was born.  While we stepped back in history, a massive thunderstorm brewed overhead.  By the time we had made it through the first museum, Mozart’s childhood home, thunder and lightning colored and lit up our world as the pavements became slick with rain. Each crash and subsequent rumblings disrupted the peaceful atmosphere of the birthplace of the young genius and caused more than a few tourists to jump just a bit.

Personally, I think cities are far more beautiful in the rain; soaked in hues of blues and greys. Humidity and the sweet smell of water enveloped us as we ran through the downpour, sans umbrellas and jackets of course, to the home of Mozart’s adult years.  We somehow made it just before closing and walked through the hallowed halls where Mozart’s genius continued to grow and captivate the world around him.  Sometime later the rain let up and we made our way to Mirabella Gardens – the famed garden that is featured throughout The Sound of Music and rests just below Nonnberg Abbey, where the real-life Maria spent her early years.  We sang around the fountains, strolled through fields of flowers, hopped up and down the “Do Re Mi” steps, and ran and danced through the ivy-covered tunnels from the hit musical.

Let your inner child run rampant through the ivy-covered tunnels of the gardens, sit and sketch the fountains, stop and literally smell the roses and the pansies that color the heart of Salzburg.  Walk the path that follows the Salzach River and watch the horse-drawn carriages that fill the roads right next to the Mercedes and Volkswagens of the modern day.  Stand in the rain when it starts to fall, but maybe bring a jacket. Stroll through the heart of Salzburg thinking on all the different eras that have made this famed city their home.

We strolled till dusk and finally made our way to dinner, where we were surprised with tickets to a chamber music concert in the Mirabella Marble Concert Hall.  Walking through the doors of the mansion that still houses the royal family of Austria instantly lifted our tired spirits from a day full of traveling and walking through rain-soaked cities.  Despite our exhaustion, the energy was palpable as we walked up the marble staircase and took our seats in the very front row.  The piano and string trio played Beethoven, Mozart, and Schubert and was absolutely stunning.  They were all quite young, yet so talented — reading each other’s every breath and movement to create masterpieces of sound.  Their playing was effortless and mesmerizing to the point of a trance-like state.  After the concert, we got to go backstage and meet the young performers and thank them for their gift to us.  It was an incredible night that I hope I will never forget.

But for now, on to Vienna.

[themusiciantraveler]

A Munich Must

Tuesday. May 22, 2018.

The hustle and bustle from Heathrow airport followed us on the short little jaunt to Munich, all the way to the crowded passport lines in the “Burbank of Germany”.  Munich airport, which incidentally enough is not even IN Munich, was much more peaceful than London with its busy passageways, numerous royalty-free stores, and never-ending subways to each terminal. All in all, a very welcome relief from the overwhelming noise and size of LHR – in which, if you’re wondering, I did indeed get us lost.

Our seventeen-passenger van sat awaiting our imminent departure into the land of bratwurst, beer, and mountain castles with promises of all sorts of adventures ahead of us. Once on the road through the stunning green German countryside, Michael and Doc Mays – our resident tour guide and favorite piano professor – informed us of the special locale for our first dinner in Europe.  Michael informed us that we would soon be devouring traditional German fare while being entertained by some of the best musicians a meal could buy – certainly, a Munich must.

Downtown Munich is full of narrow roads, endless rows of parked cars, and numerous street signs – all in German.  The busy streets provided an adventurous maze with the promising end our dinner destination. After several circles up, down, and around the heart of the capital of Germany, Michael was able to sweet-talk a garage owner into creating a parking spot for our oversized vehicle.  Now, not much later in the trip, we would learn that Michael was the type that could sell ice to the Eskimos.  Nothing on God’s green earth could have possibly prepared me for the sensory overload that was simply walking through the doors of our dinner location – but first a little history on the establishment that holds the heart of Germany in its halls.

Hofbräuhaus München is the most famous Biergarten in all of Germany.  Built in 1589 by Bavarian Duke Maximilian I as an extension of the Staatliches Hofbräuhaus in the München brewery, the tavern hall was where Hitler gave his first public speech in 1920.  The brewery turned restaurant boasts four seating zones where patrons gather across three expansive floors and a beautiful outside patio area.  Each of the floors except for the historic beer hall – the "Schwemme" – were destroyed during the World War II bombings.  The Festival Hall reopened in 1958, marking the end of post-war restoration.  Located down the Hochbrückenstraße in the heart of the Marienplatz, the Hofbräuhaus is just north of the Bier and Oktoberfest Museum.  Their own beer used to be brewed in-house but roughly 100 years ago was moved to the outskirts of Munich.  The cradle of Bavarian hospitality and culture, Hofbräuhaus boasts a vibrant scene full of patrons that have been gathering together for years just to have dinner and a drink.  With more than 100 groups of passionate regulars, the Biergarten has been the stomping grounds for as long as 70 years for some patrons.  These regulars can keep a personal stein tucked away in one of the many Schwemme located throughout the halls of the Hofbräuhaus.

Two large glass doors, emblazoned with the bright blue HB logo of the Hofbräuhaus, welcomed us into our bustling yet cozy home for dinner.  A full Lieder band played constantly on the stage in the heart of the first main floor as couples danced, Fraulines sold baskets full of pretzels that were the size of a basketball, and men walked around carrying anywhere from five to ten steins of beer the size of a grown man’s thigh muscle!  The raucous was utterly overwhelming after spending fifteen hours traveling in quiet planes and vans.  The music called to us on another level entirely as each of our senses went into overload at the sight before us.  Michael began to dance and march through the ground floor, and we followed in stride bouncing to the invigorating beat of the band.  Hordes of people filled the halls and caused to lose sight of Michael at least 3 times as we marched and danced our way around the Biergarten in search of our remaining traveling companions that were to meet us at dinner.

After dancing through each floor, up and down flights of stairs, and out through the courtyard and patio, we had seen the entirety of the Hofbräuhaus but had yet to locate our friends.  After fifteen minutes of traversing through the Bavarian landmark, we finally received a phone call from Doc that the remainder of our companions were at the front door — we had completely walked past them in our awe and wonderment! Once reunited, we began our search to find enough table space to seat fourteen weary travelers.

Now, something you need to know before you travel to Germany is that German restaurants have reserved tables for loyal regulars.  It is an unspoken law that you NEVER take one of these tables marked “Stammtisch Wuide Rund’n”.  Somehow, in our hunger-driven distraction, we ended up seated at two separate tables, both marked with the designated reserved sign and lived to tell the tale.  Another thing to be aware of is that dining is a family event in Germany.  It is relaxed, lengthy, and never interrupted unless you have a very rude waiter.  Whether your tablemates are dear friends or complete strangers, come prepared to spend your entire evening in their well-fed company.

Once finally seated we were challenged with deciphering a German menu in order to avoid receiving an unexpected and potentially in-edible meals.  Bits and pieces of entrees and appetizers came together until we had all decided on dinner and drinks.  My recommendation is that you locate a few of the English translated menus that are scattered around the tavern halls and avoid any ordering mishaps.  Hands down, that sausage and sauerkraut was one of the best meals I have ever had and came to be one of the biggest highlights of the entire trip. The snap of the meat was audible as we struggled to contain our hunger and tried to enjoy our meal, rather than just quickly scarfing it all down.  The mustard and kraut had underlying sweet notes instead of the typical vinegar-based bitterness that you often encounter when consuming these in the States.  We honestly couldn’t help but keep shoveling bit after bite into our mouths until the plate, was at last, unfortunately empty.

Looking up from my incredible meal, I caught another glimpse of Michael dancing around the Hofbräuhaus with several different patrons and couldn’t help thinking that he must embody the definition of “joie de vivre” (or whatever the joy of life is in German). No matter how full you are, deciding to order a streusel for dessert is always a good idea.  This flaky, gooey, buttery concoction can only be described as “heaven on earth” covered in a divine, warm vanilla bean sauce and topped with the fluffiest whipped cream that you’d think you were eating a cloud. When we just couldn’t eat anymore, Doc reached down the table and innocently asked if we were finished before he happily (and quickly) consumed the remainder of our delightful dessert.

After one more longing stroll around the unforgettable Hofbräuhaus, attempting to capture the sights, smells, and sounds that engulfed us, we headed to the van to make our way through the sleepy Bavarian countryside to our home in Oberaudorf, Germany for the night.  Jet-lagged and incredibly well-fed, I couldn’t help but nod off as a gentle rain cloaked our exit from a still lively Munich.  Dirt roads and the smell of cattle greeted our sleepy band of travelers as the starlight led the way to the Ochsenwirt Gastof; falling contently into bed, dreams of the Hofbräuhaus and our many adventures to come lulled me into a peaceful slumber.

[themusiciantraveler]

Off to See the World...

Monday.  May 21, 2018. 8:36am.

 Horns honked, brake lights glared, and drivers yelled at other drivers inside their mostly sound-proof vehicles not many feet away.  Michael weaved in and out of traffic, causing some of the Mercedes’ occupants to keep their wide eyes trained on their laps in fright. My head drooped impossibly low as I battled sleepiness and slid from side to side during our jolting ride.

Despite not being as well-rested as the remainder of our traveling group seemed, I felt surprisingly put together.  But looks can be quite deceiving.  I can probably guarantee that I have forgotten something behind in our little valley home.  However, throwing caution and care to the wind as our sleek car inched through the infamous Los Angeles traffic I have decided to take the “if I did not pack it, I do not need it” philosophy for my initial foray into the world outside of the United States.  I am armed with my Nikon, clad in my Birkenstocks, and I have my faithful mother and trusty traveling companion trailing not far behind me.  I feel prepared to take on the world – literally.

A small tip on packing from someone who overpacks for everything without fail: don’t overpack.  Just don’t. Check the weather for where you are traveling, talk to people who have visited where you are going or read articles from blogs or travel writing journals that boast facts on weather and terrain for the locale you will soon be visiting.  Pick neutrals that go together and can easily be mixed and matched, it will help cut down the number of things you will want to pack. If you’re traveling through Europe in early summer like I am, you will want to pack an umbrella and a lightweight rain jacket for the surprising mid-day storms and comfortable walking shoes for the cobblestone streets.  You seriously won’t want or need more than two pairs of shoes on a trip that’s two weeks or less.  And just remember this helpful fact: anything extra that you pack that you don’t absolutely need will take up valuable space that can be replaced by souvenirs and memories from your once in a lifetime trip.

Now just a bit of advice, if you ever see an exceedingly full elevator, do everyone a favor and wait for the next one.  Or better yet, take the escalator or the stairs and build some muscles. That advice had not been heeded by enough travelers, so our overly populated ride to the proper floor involved zero personal space and one extraordinarily confused emergency responder that had been accidentally summoned by the small red button the resides below the floor numbers – yes, the button your mother told you never to push.  But when the elevator remarkably resembles an iconic clown car, what else can one expect but for someone to lean against the button panel. An audible sigh of relief emanated from the steel cage that had thankfully made it up the few floors as the inhabitants fled from its constricting grasp.

Confusion, complaints, delays, mad dashes, and trashcans overflowing with contraband (your 18 bags of trail mix will probably feed some starving TSA agent fairly well for a few afternoons) are just a few hallmarks of airport security lines.  I learned how to snack and pack well from my dad, in his words “you must always be prepared for unexpected inevitable.”  He is called King Pack in our household and could probably win the world championship of Tetris.  So, armed with this ability to put everything in its place and keep it all sequestered to a single bag, you can imagine my dismay (horror, really) as my aubergine backpack was unceremoniously upended and the contents of my in-flight survival kit were dumped onto the table in front of me.  So perhaps, rethink that umpteenth bag of cheese puffs in lieu of making it to your gate in a timely manner – in other words, learn from my mistake and unfortunate encounter.

Time flies when you’re having fun or running just the slightest bit behind schedule.  Suddenly we were the last of our group to arrive at our gate as the hustle and bustle scurried around us and boarding began.  Time slowed as blurred travelers swept around our little group of professors, parents, grandparents, students, graduates, and new-found friends.  Within those moments as we shuffled through the long line of passengers filing down the narrow walkway to the plane an overwhelming sense of wonder overtook me – I was about to leave the country for the very first time.  Finally.

 Wanderlust:

“a strong longing for or impulse toward wandering.”

The word boasts its roots in the German language and embodied several of the emotions I was feeling as we navigated to our seats and settled in for the 10-hour flight to Heathrow airport.  Nerves, excitement, a growling stomach, exhaustion, and imminent muscle spasms loomed on the horizon as the giant steel bird floated effortlessly through the haze and above the clouds.  The crowded plane that was our shared home for the next leg of the journey brought together young and old alike with headphones and neck pillow adorning armrests and trays full of electronics and reading materials.  Each from their own walk of life and yet we would all share part of ourselves through conscious or subconscious actions and reactions in the following evening and morning.  Some looking to get away from normal for a while, some returning home, and some just partway through a much longer journey.

And in the midst of this somewhat philosophical moment, I couldn’t help but wonder if I would physically be able to sit still for that long.  My advice for long flights: know how to occupy your mind, drink lots of water, invest in a good neck pillow, know when to rest even if you cannot sleep, and stretch every couple of hours.  I also recommend setting your watch, or any type of clock available on-hand, to the time zone you are traveling to and attempt to rearrange your daily habits to fit the current time of your final destination. It should help you successfully conquer jetlag and leave you feeling refreshed and ready to take on a new city or country once your plane lands.

Another fantastic and equally engaging activity to busy yourself with during long flights is reading up on the history of the cities and sites you plan to visit.  Travel writing books are endlessly fascinating, but your best bet will be any of Rick Steve’s travel books based in your destination.  He provides personal insights, pricing, recommendations, and closing times that will become your best friend while on the road.  For seasoned travelers and newbies alike, I cannot recommend a better book and travel guide for the world abroad.

If you’re anything like me, the excitement will keep you awake most of the flight, and you will probably memorize the safety information card for fun due to boredom.  But I can promise that no matter how tired you are after those long hours cooped up in that cabin, you’ll want to soak in and remember every waiting moment just to see what the morning brings with its clementine-soaked rays and endless possibilities.