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Matthijs Schouten: the perception of nature varies between different cultural contexts. For example Islam speaks of the many signs that Allah incorporated in nature. Buddhism approaches nature from an attitude of respect for all living beings. In the West we have mainly considered​ nature from a utilitarian perspective.

Now, in the Anthropocene, we need to re­assess our attitude to nature and ask ourselves whether we are owners, stewards or partners of nature.

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This is the final resting place of your cast-off clothing

When people in the West throw their clothes away, their cast-offs often go on a journey east, across the oceans, to India’s industrial interior. From the Kutch District of western India to the northern city of Panipat, garment recyclers turn into yarn the huge bales of clothes that come from people and places distinctly strange. With little exposure to Western culture other than the Discovery Channel, the garment recyclers rely on their imagination and the rumours that travel with the cast-offs to create an an intriguing perspective on the West.

Director: Meghna Gupta

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Reverse Resources is developing a Software as a Service (SaaS) platform for fabric and garment factories to map, measure and create visibility for leftover fabrics and scraps so that these become traceable through their following life cycles. They want to unleash the new business opportunity from circular economy and boost remanufacturing and recycling best practices with virtual support from our software, giving the highest priority to maximising impact, scalability and efficiency.

The volumes of spilled resources from garment production are systematically underestimated by retailers - on average 25% of resources get spilled from factories. Taking the first step to start measuring and planning the integration of these resources back into the supply chains would give an opportunity for a major growth within the textile industry while helping to reduce the use of virgin fibres.

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Imagine walking into the Italian factory that makes leather bags for Celine, and asking them to make you a black leather tote bag. You want the same exact high-quality materials, the same meticulous craftsmanship, similar designs. The only thing that is missing is the big logo. If you paid the bag maker fairly for the materials and the labor, the bag would run you about $250, which is a tiny fraction of a $4,000 tote you would pick up at a Celine boutique.

Italic, a new members-only marketplace wants to sell you that Celine-quality bag without the outrageous price that comes along with the logo. Founder and CEO Jeremy Cai scoured the globe to find the factories that make products for the best luxury brands in the world and delivers a curated array of exclusive products from those same factories at reasonable prices.

Among its 100 introductory products at launch, Italic will sell a $95 cashmere scarf made at Burberry’s factory, a $75 quilted wallet made at Prada’s factory, and a $245 bucket bag made at Givenchy’s factory. New items will launch every month. Members pay an annual fee of $120 to gain access to the products, and can only purchase two items a month.

The products themselves don’t rip off the specific designs of other luxury brands–instead, products are crafted by makers at the factory who have years of experience making products for other companies.

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Hoooked Spesso is a super chunky macramé cotton yarn is our new eco-friendly yarn and creates trendy bulky textures in no time! Spesso Chunky Cotton has 24 wires, based on an art trend with chunky yarns. 

Tons of textile waste are generated during the textile manufacturing process. We purchase and collect this textile waste from companies that truly care about the proper destination of these materials. After being collected, the textile waste is sorted by colours, shredded into yarn fibre and spun again into this crafty cotton yarn. No chemical dyeing process is required, hence also no water is used. A new cycle begins, maximizing the use of natural resources. In this circular economy, you are able to transform yarn into art, making crafty creations of the lowest environmental impact and the highest ecological appeal. 

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EkoYarn is our new and 100% ecological Hoooked recycled tape yarn. EkoYarn is a recycled yarn and completely regenerated from collected second hand textiles. These textiles are collected within the European Union and are handpicked per color and fibre type and then spun again into this textured and sturdy fabric yarn. EkoYarn consists of 80% recycled cotton and 20% other recycled fibres.  EkoYarn is a responsible choice as the fibres are completely re-purposed. No dying and other additions are applied.

EkoYarn recycled yarn is especially suitable for crocheting or knitting of robust home accessories such as rugs, knitted poufs and laundry baskets.

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Hoooked Zpagetti t-shirt yarn is the ultimate jumbo crochet and knitting yarn. Zpagetti is the original 100% recycled jersey t-shirt yarn made of superior quality recycled t-shirt scraps and remnants from European t-shirt factories. The original Zpagetti t-shirt yarn is hand selected at our own Hoooked t-shirt recycling center in Portugal. In that way we have complete control over the labor circumstances and our production standards. The composition of most of our Zpagetti T-shirt yarn is cotton with a small percentage lycra, also known as jersey fabric yarn.

Our Hoooked Zpagetti collections are constantly renewed, so each creation from fabric yarn will be unique and trendy. This bulky yarn creates a fast and sturdy result and is very suitable to make yourself a trendy knitted pouf, a knit pillow, knitted lampshades or a large crochet rug. Zpagetti t-shirt yarn is also suitable for various weaving and knotting techniques.

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42860_E3 A machine to unravel knitwear by STROZA The machine is designed as a single-purpose automatic line to unravel textile knitwear for a company which manufactures clothes. The machine is automatic, with minimum attendance by operators.

Individual processes take gradually place in the machine. The knitwear is guided, turned, grasped and spread out with grasping bars, the knitwear is then unravelled by means of two hot-air heaters whereinto air is supplied by means of high-pressure blowers. Steam from an automatic steam generator is added into the hot unravelling air. Individual pieces of the unravelled knitwear are transported from the equipment on an output stainless wire conveyor belt.

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Unravel is a new approach to knits. Whereas unravelling is something most of us want to avoid, Maya Leroy has elevated it into a new discipline. Where the technique could be used for the making of garments.

Pull the thread and watch it unravel. Gradually a new colour, shape, length or width will unfold. The former disappointment of fabric falling apart will turn into a pleasant surprise, allowing the owner to add a personal touch.

The excitement and qualities that lie within the unravelling are endless. Imagine a new look for every season. A whole collection in just one piece!

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Shima Seiki: Taking advantage of 3D knitting, everything from simple pullovers to brand new types of knitwear can be produced with special features unique to WHOLEGARMENT such as unprecedented fit, comfort and extended range of motion. Elements that normally require complicated sewing such as drape and shirr, as well as browsing effects for creating volume, can be knitted in. High productivity and efficiency, reduced dependence on labor as well as savings in resources makes WHOLEGARMENT knitting the ultimate form of knit production.

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In 2017, Uniqlo launched a collection which featured items created with 3D U-Knit, a three-dimensional knitting technique that employs Shima Seiki's WHOLEGARMENT technology to enhance fit and comfort.

WHOLEGARMENT uses the latest knitting machine technology to produce knitwear three-dimensionally in one entire piece, eliminating seams. Since its inception in 1995, the development of WHOLEGARMENT technology, such as the Slide Needle means that the overall costs of producing knitwear has come down.

A key advantage of this technology has therefore become its flexibility and speed, empowering designers to perfectly materialize their visions. However, while WHOLEGARMENT has primarily been the domain of knitwear from fashion houses, employing this technology through its close partnership with Shima Seiki has helped Uniqlo increase access to knitwear with unprecedented refinement at affordable prices.

I went to Uniqlo store to try on the 3D knitted dresses and sweater myself and I can attest it was the most comfortable knitwear I’ve ever worn, it felt like second skin. For this quality, the prices are surprisingly affordable.

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Circular knitting machine for thin tubular knits. TextielMuseum in Tilburg.

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STOLL flat knitting machine in TextielMuseum in Tilburg.

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Circular knitting machine in TextielMuseum in Tilburg.