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mrandmrs55 (2012). Who Is Mani Rabadi? [online] Mr. & Mrs. 55 - Classic Bollywood Revisited! Available at: https://mrandmrs55.com/2012/02/28/who-is-mani-rabadi/ [Accessed 25 May 2023].

.bollycurves.com/resources/what-is-bollywood 

Victoria and Albert Museum (2017). V&A · An introduction to 1960s fashion. [online] Victoria and Albert Museum. Available at: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/an-introduction-to-1960s-fashion.

CNN, L.D. (2021). A visual history of space-age fashion. [online] CNN. Available at: https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/space-age-fashion-scn/index.html.

CNN, L.D. (2021). A visual history of space-age fashion. [online] CNN. Available at: https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/space-age-fashion-scn/index.html.

Journey From Black And White Period to Color Films Trend

Nairhttps://filmykeeday.com/black-and-white-to-color-films/

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Bollywood during the 60s   

Bollywood during the 1960s was labelled as the colour era where previously Bollywood movies were produced in black, white however the Bollywood film Junglee in 1961 whilst in production colour came in, therefore, some of the film is in black and white and some of the film is in colour.  

By having colour films, it can show the actual colours of the Bollywood outfits. The outfits that were worn were light pastel colours for example blue, peaches etc. The detail was gold embellishment and embroidery however these outfits were quite simple when compared to other eras of Bollywood for example the early 2000s where there were dark and glitzy Bollywood outfits an example being Omi shanti Omi.   

In the 1960s the inspiration for the look that actresses in Bollywood was Breakfast at Tiffany's, the doll eyes, the big hair and the small facial features. These were all things all the women in Bollywood would wear showing the inspiration that American films had on Bollywood.  

During the 1960s one of the most famous actors now made his debut in 1969 Amitabh Bachchan. His first film was Saat Hindustani (seven Indians) which is an Indian action film that portrays seven Indians trying to liberate Goa from Portuguese colonial rule. This led to Amitabh Bachchan going into stardom and celebrating 50 years in Bollywood in 2019.  

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Space designers When looking at space designers two of the most notable designers were Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges during the 1960s and 1970s. Pierre Cardin was a French designer who was a woman wears designer but was a pioneer in men's wear. During the 1960s Pierre made his mark by releasing a women's collection which showed his use of vinyl through helmets and goggles all to start the space age. His garments were sharp and modern. They were worn by the beetles and 60s icon Mia Farrow. Cardin later became famous for licensing his name for use on a variety of products( such as sunglasses) after Cardin the practice of licensing subsequently became common among fashion designers. André Courrèges was also a French-based designer and was a women's wear designer during the 1960s. André Courrèges released his Moon Girl collection, including white go-go boots and tall, spherical hats, in the spring of 1964. The late designer used high-shine PVC to construct stiff A-line skirts that held their own when twisted and contorted in fashion shoots. His interest in intergalactic glamour only grew from there. From both Pierre and Andre when looking at what they both created it was the start of the use of unconventional materials which create a different look. For my garment, I could similar to Andre's experiment with materials like bubble wrap and plastic to reference that space age period.

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Evaluation The garment that I created to show my narrative of the space age was successful as I feel like it is simple but the elements that it has of it being a puffer jacket are similar to the astronaut suit. The 3D leather to show a 3d sari shows Bollywood and space. However, while making my garment there was a lot of trial and error, for example, the beading once I put the beading onto the garment the fabric was too slippery for the beads to stay therefore I asked my peers whether the beads should be left on the garment or not but they expressed that they felt the garment did not need the beads. However, this is something I should have practised with the stain before putting the beads on the garment to see how I would attach the beads to the garment. as well for garment i need to be more carefull when creating the garment for example making sure my seam allowance is a 1 cm and making sure my stiching is staight by doing this it stops me from having to unpick and redo also avoid ruinning the fabric. my sketchbook showed my journey of how I created my garment showing the different design ideas in which I had. this was successful as I made sure when creating my sketchbook that I was mindful of my layout and presentation as on a previous model I wad very messy with my layout making it hard to read.

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designer research I started to research Bollywood designers during the 60s and found Mani Rabadi who was a costume designer during the 1960s and 1970s in many Bollywood films. Her first film was 1967 called jewel thief with one of the most popular characters being the French imposer whose costume was created by Mani. Mani was known for revealing costumes for example an evening in Paris in 1967 where the villain Sharmila's costume was showing her tummy to show that she was the villain. Mani was also for polka dots first started with. using cotton balls stuck onto the garment for polka dots until the 1970s when mani started to use print to create polka dots. When looking at the different garments which Mani created I could see that she tried to push the barriers to make her work go further without Mani many designers would not have pushed the barriers as well. Furthermore, she has inspired me by making sure the garment reaches its full potential and can be the best it can be.

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Final garment For my final garment, I had chosen to do a puffer jacket with the embellishment of beads and 3D elements to it. We first started with the dark blue stain material that I brought and pinned the patterns we created to cut them out. For the puffer jacket, I needed to create a second piece of each pattern as lining therefore I doubled my fabric to create a multiple piece. I carefully cut each pattern piece out making sure to keep the cutting straight and clean. Once I had finished cutting, I started with the top of the puffer jacket. Started to pin the front to one of the back panel sleeves. I made sure to do the good side to the good side to make the stitching not seen. Once I had sewed the back to the front sleeve, I continued this for the second set of the front and back panel's selves. After both sets were connected and I joined the two sets from the shoulder to the underarm. Then overlocking the top to stop the stitching from coming apart and giving a clean look as well. Then started on the bottom similarly to the top I cut out two sets of each piece to create the puffer. I connected the back to the front pieces by sewing the sides of the front to the side of the back repeating this for the second set. Then after connecting both sets for the bottom of the jacket by sewing around leaving one side open to stuff later. I then turned the bottom inside out and pinned where I wanted the lines to make sure it was straight, and each line had the correct amount of distance between each puffer line. Once pinned I sewed in dark blue thread the different puffer lines. Once done I stuffed with stuffing each line carefully in order not to rip or for the stitch to come undone. Once I was happy with the stuffing, I overlocked the side that I left open to create a neat finish. Then I attached the bottom to the top placing the top face down to the bottom and sewed it together. Then I pressed the jacket to get rid of any wrinkles and make it neat. I placed the jacket onto the manque to add the embellishment. I started with the beads and as I Previously strung them together I pined them to the left shoulder and started hand stitching them going in and out however this was unsuccessful due to the fabric being statin in which moves a lot making it difficult for the beads to keep still, therefore, I decided to get rid of them as I felt the garment did not need the beading to be Bollywood. Then added the 3D fabric piece using fabric and placed it on the right shoulder however this was unsuccessful due to the fabric again staining the leather would not stick and also created staining onto the fabric, therefore, I hand-sewed the leather to the jacket using small and very little stitches for it not be visible but also make sure the leather was secure. The garment was successful in visually showing my narrative and space through the space part being the jacket and the Bollywood part being the 3D leather by taking away elements and keeping simple allowed for my narrative to speak through. However next time I would not be more mindful of my fabric choice especially when it comes to embellishment and to practise with the fabric to see how the fabric works with the embellishment.

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Bollywood space For this project, I wanted to explore Bollywood, the Hindi version of Hollywood looking at the different fashions of the actresses and actors. I want to explore this project the 1960s Bollywood fashion and mix this in with 1960s space fashion showing the significance of this time not only for me but for everyone else. When I was growing up, I was surrounded by Bollywood constantly watching the movies and looking at what the actress was wearing and how they look like princesses. Also, as I child I liked the theme of space looking at what it is beyond Earth. So, for this project, I decided to look at my culture but mix it with something unusual like space. I wanted to look deep into 1960s Bollywood fashion as during this type the first man went on the moon therefore using a time from the past to create something for the present to create a garment.

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3d version of my fabric For the left side of my garment, I wanted to have a 3D sari that I created previously in pattern paper to experiment with the same design in the fabric. Using leather as I thought it would be clean and chic I cut the leather into stripes having two long and thick stripes of leather. Then having smaller stripes of leather to connect the two pieces I would place a stripe in the middle then place another stripe on top bending the sides of the stripe to make it stand like a bridge and glue this down. I continued down until the end of the two larger stripes. This was successful as the 3D sari was able to stand on its own and also was exactly like the one I made out of paper however for my actual garment I would need to make each stripe that goes in-between and on top the same size because when doing my sample I did not measure and make sure all the stipes were the same therefore they did not look the same and constant. Furthermore, the glue in which I use would go on to the stripes which can be visible creating a messy look which is something I did not therefore next time I would need to be more careful with the glue. My next step would be to create the structure for my actual garment making sure the look is neat and consistent.

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Beading For my garment to merge the Bollywood part of my narrative I wanted to add beading which is very similar to the beading detail on the Bollywood saris that the actress wore. I wanted to practise and see which size bead I wanted to use and how I would add the beads to the garment. I started with bright pink beads which were quite big and using a needle and thread I strung each bead onto the thread. After doing quite a few it was unsuccessful as the beads were too big which meant they kept moving. Therefore I tried it with smaller brown beads using the same method of threading each bead onto the thread this was more successful as it created more of a cleaner look and also the beads did not move either compared to the larger beads. The colour beads I want are either blue or gold as I thought they would be similar to the colours they used in the 1960s during the Bollywood era. My next step would be to get the correct size of the bead that I want to get the look I desire and also get the correct colour bead to refer back to my narrative.

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Fabric

After the initial sample of one side of the puffer due to the weight of the puffer on the sleeve it was dragging down the coat therefore we decided to get rid of the puffer to sleeve and only have it to the bottom of the coat. Also initially we decided to have a layer of fabric and then a layer of bubble wrap however due to the sample in which the coat already had volume I felt as though the bubble wrap was not needed. Therefore, only two fabrics were needed one for the outer layer of the fabric and one for the underlying layer of the coat.

Furthermore, after looking at the patterns, we then decided how much fabric I would need by measuring out patterns allowed us to see that we need around 5-6 meters for the outer layer of fabric and 2-3 meters of fabric for the outer layer of fabric. Once the amount of fabric was worked out then it was time to go and get fabric samples these were little snippets of fabric to see which fabric would look the best for my garment.

We went over to Barrys which is a fabric store that over hundreds of fabrics from statin to cotton. The fabric I was looking for was a liquid fabric which has that glossy look to it in colours such as silver or gold. When looking at all the fabrics I found for different fabrics all the liquid fabrics in 4 different colours red, blue, silver/purple and gold. I liked the blue as it was very similar o a training suit that astronauts would wear when trying to train in the conditions of space ready to go to the moon. Once I had the samples of the fabric, I realised that the sample fabrics were stretch fabric which means that they were unsuccessful as it would be too hard to sew. Therefore, using some spare stain that I found I cut out of the back Pannels to practise to see how the fabric sews. This was successful as it was easy and gave a nice finish. Looking at the original sample I created of the puffer jacket I used blue stain which was a colour I liked as it was unique colour and did not scream Bollywood. Therefore I went back to barrys and picked a dark almost navy-blue stain and picked a similar blue in a cotton fabric for the lining. My next step was to create the garment using the fabric I had chosen the first step was to use the patterns I had created to place them on to the fabric and pin it.

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Puffer sample As I wanted the garment to be a puffer jacket I needed to look at how I would create the puffer part of the jacket. Therefore I created two different samples one being with elastic and the other being without elastic. For the first sample, I cut out two squares of fabric and two thin pieces of elastic. Then I sewed the two pieces of elastic onto the first square as I was sewing, I pulled the elastic to create that gathering then I sewed a second square and sewed around the edges of the first square to attach the second square. Also, I sewed on top of the elastic to make it more secure and to show the gathering. This was not successful as after completing this sample I felt as though the sample looked like more of a cuff than a puffer part and there were many steps to this sample which can be quite time-consuming for example pulling the elastic while sewing can cause the sample not to be straight. For my next sample, I first took the first square and sewn two lines down the middle then took the second square and placed it on top and sewing on top of the sewn lines. Then sewing around leaving a small hole to be stuffed. This was successful as it was very simple to create furthermore it created the puffer in the way I wanted more of the puffer I had seen on jackets in retail stores like JD Sports. Therefore for my garment, I will be using the second method that I created as it is simple and creates the look I want for my next would be to create a sample of my garment using the sample I created of the puffer to see how it looks on a larger scale and also how it fits into my garment.

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Sample 2 of the puffer jacket For the second sample of the puffer jacket, I used the first sample that I created and using the Sitch picker I picked the stitches of the sleeve to add a fabric on top to create the puffer. Using a different fabric, I placed the second fabric on top of the original fabric only sewing one side to leave space for stuffing. Doing this for both the front and back sleeves after sewing and adding the new fabric I realised that this was not the way to create the puffer and that I should unpick the garment and add the new fabric on top. So I unpicked the entire garment and then placed the second fabric on top. Sewing the puffer sections as straight as possible starting with selves. Once I was happy with the sections then using stuffing, I stuffed the different puffer sections and continue this with the front panel selves and back Pannel selves. Also the front Pannel. Making sure each section is equal and straight then sew all the puffer pieces together connecting the two selves pieces then sew the front Panel together. Once completed I turned the garment inside out to have the correct side showing. This was successful as this sample allowed me to practise how to do the actual garment and see what the garment would like. I liked how oversized the garment came out and also the length of the garment. However, some parts of the garment were unsuccessful for example sewing sleeves due to the puffer being so big it became quite difficult to sew therefore I had to hand Sitch which was quite time-consuming. Also after looking at the garment on the manque, I realised that it was not stitched correctly due to me not leaving enough seam allowance furthermore due to the padding it was weighing the garment down making it drop down instead of up. Therefore, for next step would be going to the pattern and redrawing the pattern to add the seam allowance properly and to consider the padding of the garment whether it is needed for the entire garment including the sleeve or without the sleeve.

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Sample one of the puffer jacket For my sample of the puffer jacket, I decided to only do half of the jacket, which was one sleeve, the front and the back panel. I used an old bed sheet for fabric as it was easy-to-sew cotton. I stretch out the fabric and placed the pattern pieces onto the fabric making sure I leave the correct amount around the pieces for seam allowance in Ensuring that it does not reduce the size of the garment. I pinned all the pattern pieces to the fabric to know which pieces are. I then cut each piece out of the fabric and once I was happy with all the cutout pieces, I then pinned the shoulder of the front Panel to the back shoulder panel and started to sew. Then continue sewing the rest of the garment. However, once I had finished and placed the basic garment onto the manique, I realised that I had sewed the good side of the fabric to the bad side of the fabric where I could see my snitching on both sides. Therefore, using a stitch picker, I undone most of my stitching and then repined the garment making sure the good side of the fabric was faced with the good side of the fabric. Once sewn I placed again the garment on the manique and looked at the size of the garment and looking at the length of the garment this was successful as I liked the size of the garment being oversized and I liked the length of the sleeve and garment length I just need to make sure I pin the fabric properly to avoid stitching on the wrong side. My next step would be to create a sample of the puffer looking at how many sections of puffer I would like and how big I would want the puffer to be.

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Pattern Making A pattern is parts of the garment to make a full garment. A pattern is first made from pattern-making paper then place the paper on to fabric. For the pattern for the puffer jacket, we started with using a men's Parker pattern as I wanted it to be oversize for women. To make it similar to the astronaut suit. We first started with the front and back panel in which I layer the original pattern of the parker onto the pattern-making paper and cut each piece out. Then placed and pinned each panel onto the Manique to see what changes to size I need to make. Looking at the pieces on the manque I liked the size of the sleeve, and I liked it due to it being a men's pattern the shoulders were more boarder which is something I liked rather than it being the normal puffer jacket. Next was to look at the length and how long I wanted the jacket to be. Looking at my original illustration I wanted the length of the jacket to be knee length therefore I cut out a large square to be the front panel and did the same for the back. Once I was happy with all of the pieces I then re-drew all the pattern pieces adding a seam allowance for each part of the pattern so when sewing I do not reduce the size of the garment. Also, I labelled each part of the pattern to know which part is which. This was successful I was able to see clearly what the garment will look like and how it be sewn and, I was able to adjust the pattern to my liking. My next step would be to use the pattern in which I created to place onto the fabric to create a sample of the puffer to see how many lines for the puffer part of the jacket.

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Materials page For the material of the garment, I was going to experiment with the materials of the garment as I wanted to portray that space theme. When researching I found out the astronaut suit was not made from fabric it was made up of materials such as beta cloth, rubber, nylon, plastic, brass, connections and aluminium. Therefore, I tried to find similar materials like plastic and bubble wrap to see how they would look on the body. First, I started to use a fabric that was almost liquid gold Simerly to one of the images of the making of the astronaut suit but where the suit was made of a liquid silver fabric. When using the fabric on the manique I started to pin the fabric however as I started to do those the pins left quite big holes and wouldn't stay. So, when I started to stuff the fabric to create the puffer however the pin would not stay therefore, I used string to keep the stuffed fabric in place. And kept stuffing the puffer with fabric until I was happy with its shape and volume of it. Then on the other side of the manique, I used plastic and bubble which I layered on top of each other putting fabric in between to see it being the puffer jacket. However, this was not successful because the plastic and bubble wrap was transparent, I was able to see the stuffing of the fabric which is something I did not want to show therefore I removed just the bubble wrap and placed it on top of the gold fabric. This was successful as the metallic gold represented Bollywood due to many of the fashions having the gold embroidery and the bubble wrap represents the space part due to the volume of the bubble wrap. I placed a sample of each of the materials I used which was the metalica gold, bubble wrap and plastic. My next step would be to experiment with how to create the puffer part of the jacket I will need to experiment with either elastic to create that stretch or whether I want to just use straight sewn l

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Fashion illustrations p2 After looking at the illustrations I created I realised that they were too simple and that I could go bigger and more exaggerated. Therefore, I started by looking at the puffer jacket garment illustration that I drew I decided to add more to it I redrew the illustration making the puffer larger. When looking at the space images that I collected I realised that the helmet could be a hood for my garment therefore I added a large, oversized hood to the drawing. Then from my previous work with the mannequin that I created the 3D sari, I decided to use that and add it to the illustration keeping the embellishment from before. I was not sure how big I wanted the 3d sari or the hood, therefore, using pattern-making paper to experiment with the shape and volume of the stand. Once I was happy with the position and volume of the hood and the sari, I then drew them onto the illustration. I was not sure how I wanted the 3D sari to be placed on to the garment and where I wanted the embellishment there, I created 2 different drawings one being with the embellishment and the 3D sari was wrapped around the shoulder of each side of the garment that I liked. For the second drawing, I placed the 3D sari coming from the back of the garment and placed the embellishment from the shoulders to the first puffer part. My next steps would be experimenting with the size of the 3d sari, seeing how big or small I want the sari to be. Also, I want to experiment with materials and see which ones to use for the garment because when doing my research on the astronaut suit the actual space suit was not made from fabric but other materials like aluminium and polymer By not using fabrics allows the garment to be more like the astronaut suit and relate to my narrative of space.

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Fashion illustrations From the previous collages that I had done on top of the fashion figures, I started to develop these into garment shapes. I started with the first one that I had done which was an astronaut suit collaged on top of the figure. From that college, the garment shape that I created was a very long puffer jacket. I drew the shape and how oversized I wanted it first with a pencil once I was happy with the initial garment, I then added the details. Due to me doing both Bollywood and space, I wanted the garment shape to be space and then added the beading and embellishment similarly to how the Bollywood actress had on their dresses. I placed the beading on the shoulder to the forearms and on the cuff of the dress and selves. Once I was happy, I decided to outline in black however I was not sure whether to outline the embellishment or not therefore I decided to outline a small section and see if it would come up in Photoshop. This was successful as I was able to get a clear garment shape from my college as well as have the garment show my narrative of Bollywood and space. My next steps would be to go back and refine and develop my illustration to make sure that it is clean and detailed for example making sure the lines are dark and all the embellishment parts are the same shape. For my next collage, I placed triangles of a galaxy image on top of the figure I created a dress with triangle-shaped cuffs and a collar I used my college and placed under the illustration to get the placement of the collar correct and for the waist, I created a triangle pattern. For the triangle parts of the garment, I want to put a galaxy pattern into the triangles to create that space theme. Again, once I was happy with the garment shape and details, I outlined the illustration in black. This was successful as I liked the unique shapes that I created instead of being squares however there is not a Bollywood element to the garment it is just space therefore to develop this further I will need to add some Bollywood to the garment which could be embellishment or patterns to bring both elements together.