#wnn yearly

[whennnow]

2024 Goals

January 2, 2024

This year is going to be a rough one, I can already feel it. But! We will keep on keepin' on because we have no other choice.

To prepare for that, I am once again going with Vague Goals.

Vague Goal #1: 1890s Stuff

Seriously, I have amassed so much fabric to go into my 1890s wardrobe and I have used so little of it!

I'm still focusing on undergarments for now - bust and hip padding and a petticoat (or two?) would make me very happy. Maybe a shirtwaist if I'm feeling like an overachiever.

Then in 2025 I can start on the pretty outer garments! :)

Vague Goal #2: Stashbusting!

I did not do a good job of this last year. I definitely acquired more fabric than I used, though a lot of it was free, sooo...

For Regency stashbusting, I could (should?) make a pair or two of removable sleeves to go with my open robe.

For modern stashbusting, I have enough flannel to make a nice warm skirt before the weather gets nice again (I've even already patterned it and picked buttons from my stash!) and some pretty bits to make cute lingerie.

I will not buy fabric. I should not accept free fabric. I will only acquire fabric if it will be used within a reasonable amount of time to complete a project that is mostly made from my stash. I will keep telling myself this and hoping it works.

(Actually, I am hoping to make a pair of palazzo pants for a trip this spring which will require a fabric purchase. I will not buy more than I need and I will start the project right away.)

(Not) Vague Goal #3: Medieval Linens

Ok this one isn't really vague BUT it would be nice to make some more basic linen stuff for SCA garb.

I already have enough linen for a half-circle veil and a cap/coif, which are my top priorities, but I should also have enough for a barbette and filet to wear with my hair net.

A larger and non-stashbusting goal would be to make a supportive front-lacing smock! It would be a good base layer for 14th century stuff and also give me a base pattern for making fitted cotehardies in the future.

Actually, once I have a supportive smock, I'll feel less bad about cutting up the polyester one I got second-hand last year. I want to use that to make tippets, line pouches, and make other accessories that don't really need to be linen (like maybe needle books or cup covers for the annual gift exchange).

Aaaannnd... that's it.

I could make another list of the fabrics in my stash and what I intend to use them for (like I did last year), but it would basically be the same list, so I'll spare both you and myself that.

[whennnow]

2023 Wrap Up

December 31, 2023

This year has been an emotional roller coaster with very high highs and very low lows. But let's focus on sewing and historical stuff!

Goal Recap

I had two main goals this year - starting my SCA-appropriate wardrobe and stashbusting.

Originally, I had wanted to jump right into the fitted cotehardies of the late 1300s, but that didn't work out. For one, those are difficult to fit, and patterning the dresses would have taken as long as (if not longer than) sewing one. I also would have wanted to splurge on linen and wool, which wasn't quite in my budget.

I did, however, throw together some basic Roman-ish garb (perfect for summer events), make two basic tunics (more appropriate for the 1200s) from thrifted sheets, and acquire some accessories to really pull the look together.

That means I have enough garb to wear at SCA events, and my goal has been accomplished.

As for stashbusting, well... seven of my projects did come from stash fabric. I bought fabric for five projects (which did get used already). I also acquired small quantities of some other fabrics, all but one of which was free.

I'm going to say I broke even on that one.

Project Recap

My 2023 sewing projects were (in more-or-less chronological order):

Another "Boardwalk Duet" top from the Wearing History pattern (stash fabric)

Patched/reinforced my favorite pajama pants with flannel scraps (stash)

1940s 'camiknickers' from Mrs Depew Vintage pattern 2010 (stash fabric)

Altered Regency petticoat to increase hem circumference (stash)

Blue Regency lace-up bodice with ribbon trim (stash fabric and trim)

Edwardian combinations with blue accents from the TV pattern (stash fabric)

Roman-ish chiton and palla for an SCA event (bought both fabrics)

Regency open robe in shot dupioni using American Duchess/Simplicity 8941 (stash fabrcic)

Periwinkle velvet panties to match bralette from last year (stash fabric, purchased elastic)

Moved around the patches on my denim jacket

Blue canvas tote bag (leftover fabric from my corset, plus additional stash fabric for the lining)

Black velvet handbag for a friend's wedding plus three drawstring pouches for bridesmaids (mix of stash and purchased fabric)

Two basic t-tunics for SCA garb (thrifted fabric)

Linen veil and wimple set for SCA garb (purchased fabric)

Tree skirt for one of my grandmother's themed trees

Misc Recap

I'd like to commemorate some-sewing adjacent stuff I did this year, too!

I swatched, measured, and catalogued my entire fabric stash, with the exception of scraps.

I also organized my button stash. Sets of buttons were sewn onto cardstock, while singles are divided into small containers - one for black/white/clear buttons, one for brown buttons, one for pearly grey and white buttons, and one for all the miscellaneous colorful ones. There's also a small bead organizer in the box for sets of shank buttons.

I learned to pattern and sew kiss-clasp purses! Or at least one. I made it as a gift for my friend who got married, and it felt like a brilliant culmination of what I've learned in terms of sewing.

I also learned some simple wire-working skills to expand my SCA accessories. First, I learned how the Romans made the beaded links in their jewelry and used that to make two necklaces and two pairs of earrings. Second, I learned to make both plain and beaded fibulae (basically safety pins).

Current UFOs

My grandmother's shirt - take in the princess seams slightly at the top and reattach the sleeves

1890s corset cover - i need to finish the neck, armholes, and hem with bias tape, attach the front placket, and add buttons and button holes

I accomplished more sewing-related stuff than I expected to this year, and I think joining the SCA gave me a big push in the right direction. It was nice to work on things knowing that I would have somewhere to wear them.

Stay tuned for my goals/predictions for 2024!

Until then,

Stay warm. Stay safe. Stay healthy.

[whennnow]

2023 Goals

January 11, 2023

Now that we've established that I didn't meet most of my 2022 goals, I am going to keep 2023's goals vague.

Vague Goal #1: SCA Garb (3rd quarter of the 14th century)

Yes, I have started getting into my local SCA community. I'm lucky to have found a large, active group that is friendly and willing to teach!

I want to start working on a medieval European/English wardrobe - specifically a decade in roughly the 3rd quarter of the 1300s. I'm still researching to figure out which decade. I'm planning on ordering a buttload of linen in January so I can make a shift, a veil and wimple, and some hose.

I won't fool myself into thinking I'll get any more sewing done this year in this era, but I would like to end the year with a solid plan for this wardrobe going forward. I'll probably do a capsule-ish wardrobe to keep things cohesive.

Vague Goal #2: Stashbusting

I know, it's everyone's forever goal. But I mean it this time.

With the exception of my SCA linens, I am not allowing myself to start any projects whose supplies don't come primarily from my stash. Obviously, if I need something to complete a project like trim or interfacing or something, that's okay, but no buying fabric just because it's pretty or because I want to start another project. Stash-based projects only.

Of course, this would be a very short blog post if I ended it here, so let's see what I have in my stash...

Stash Project Ideas (Not Goals)

Seriously, this is just an inventory of what is in my stash and what I have planned for it. These are NOT goals.

Regency Stash

5 or 6 yds of blue/pink poly dupioni, destined to become a Regency open robe and accessories, like a reticule or turban, and maybe also a pair of slippers. For the robe, I intend to use American Duchess/Simplicity 8941, which I already have.

Misc remnants, including two velvets and a dupioni that might become a bodice, and some scraps and trims that might become a turban or a dark blue bonnet.

1890s Stash

6(?) yds pinstripe poly suiting, to be used for a walking skirt and hopefully a suit jacket. If I don't have enough for a jacket, then I'll make a vest, but I'm really hoping for a jacket. Either way there will be black trim or contrasting black fabric involved.

An unknown quantity of white cotton, which has already been cut out for Edwardian (close enough) combinations, and I should still have enough for a proper 1890s corset cover.

An unknown quantity of light blue cotton, for bust and hip pads because white would be boring or something. Maybe part of a petticoat if there's enough fabric.

4.75 yds striped poly taffeta and 4yds of poly tissue taffeta, in almost coordinating shades of purple that I'm hoping can become a "dress" (aka skirt and bodice), possibly with the help of some white accents. Alternately, the striped taffeta could become a petticoat and the tissue taffeta will become some combination of a bodice, vest, belt, hat, and other accessories.

Misc Stash

Most of a yard of periwinkle burnout velvet, to make more fun lingerie to match the bralette I made in 2022, though I'll need to order more elastic.

1 yd of non-stretch burnout velvet plus elastic and findings, to make more lingerie using my purple cotton bralette and shorts patterns as a starting point.

2.25 yds brown/black flannel, which would make a cute skirt or something.

Roughly 2 yards of blue cotton canvas (left over from my 1890s corset) which would make a sturdy tote bag or two.

Various cotton pieces, which could become summery tops or shorts or both or something else entirely. I need to spice up my everyday wardrobe.

Well, that sums it up, I think. I've had some of this fabric since college or even high school, and I'd really like to use it - get it out of my stash and into my wardrobe. That way I can justify buying nice wools and maybe a little silk in 2024 for my medieval wardrobe, or some thicker wool for Regency winter-wear, or more fabric for 1890s stuff, or, or, or...

The possibilities are endless, but my budget and the space in my apartment are not.

Wishing you all a delightful new year!

Stay warm. Stay safe. Stay healthy.

[whennnow]

2022 Wrap Up

December 21, 2022

I have had one hell of a year. I left the job I've been at (on and off) for seven and a half years, and finally got a job in the field I have a degree in. I finally bought a car. I had to replace that car's radiator. I moved clear across town and now have to take care of all the household duties myself.

My sewing has suffered for it. I accomplished very, very little this year, which I feel even more frustrated about because I set myself a very, very low bar and I still missed it. This post is quickly becoming a bummer though, so let's jump into it.

2022 Goals and Results

Regency

This year, I wanted to expand my wardrobe with a habit-style chemisette, an open robe, and some smaller accessories like vests and bodices, reticules, and some new headwear.

I made two new reticules right at the beginning of the year, and I really like them!

I also made the DAR vest and an over bodice in the same fabric I've already used to make a reticule and a bonnet.

In non-sewing projects, I made myself another simple jewelry set - a necklace, bracelet, and pair of earrings in deep blue glass beads. I stumbled on some very fun red teardrop-shaped beads that were a near-match for my faux coral jewelry set, so I used some spare beads from the original set to make another pair of earrings.

1890s

My only real goal for my 1890s wardrobe this year was combinations. I got them mostly cut out, but sadly that's as far as I got.

I have, however, made many plans for my 1890s wardrobe, including picking a color scheme and a selection of patterns, and I've expanded my 1890s pinterest board considerably.

Misc

I had one goal for my modern wardrobe this year - a casual warm-weather dress. While I didn't sew one, I did buy a suitable white dress and dyed it a lovely shade of blue. So I'm considering that goal achieved.

I also made a modern bralette this spring and some vaguely 1930s undergarments - a bralette and shorts. Over the summer, I turned an old, too-small attempt at a 1920s house dress into combinations. Then, in the fall, I made a cotton garment bag for what I suspect to be a home-sewn silk dress from the late 1920s or early 30s. It originally belonged to my great-grandmother Elinor. My grandmother kept it, and gave it to me this year when we discovered that it fit me perfectly!

Speaking of my grandmother, I also made some alterations to three or four of her favorite shirts so they fit her better, and I'm currently/still working on another one. I did not enjoy these projects because of the sheer amount of seam ripping I had to do. Please never ask me to alter a store-bought garment ever again.

Summary

Ok, so while I didn't do much sewing this year, I did do some things. And while I'm not thrilled with the number of projects I completed, I am happy with how each project turned out.

Hopefully, 2023 will be a year filled with sewing motivation.

Until then,

Stay warm. Stay safe. Stay healthy.

[whennnow]

2022 Project Goals

January 5, 2022

My list for 2021 basically contained every project I could think of. It was incredibly aspirational, but not very realistic. So this year I'm trying a different approach - short and sweet. I'm looking at my list for 2021, what I did and didn't accomplish, and what my priorities are for 2022.

My main goal for this year is expanding my Regency wardrobe and continuing to build the foundations for my 1890s dreams. So let's get into it!

Regency

A chemisette - I finished a ruffly chemisette just before the new year, but I'd like a habit-style chemisette as well.

An open robe - I have the American Duchess/Simplicity 8941 pattern and 6yds of 'silk' in my stash. I'd really love to make the sleeves removable for added versatility!

Etc. - Other small projects include vests/bodices, reticules, or a turban, all of which would be stash projects. (At the time of writing this, I've already finished two reticules!)

1890s

Combinations - Ok, I actually want early Edwardian combinations because I think they're prettier and it's underwear so I don't care that it's "inaccurate". I've just bought the Truly Victorian's E02 Edwardian Underwear pattern. I inherited an unknown length of white cotton that might work well (though I don't know how much I have), and I already have some lace and ribbon set aside.

Etc. - If I get the combinations done, next on the list would be bum/hip pads, a bust improver, and a corset cover. These could probably be made from what's left of the mystery white fabric I intend to use for the combinations.

Misc.

More doll clothes for Adelaide, my cloth doll - I already have a bundle of scrap fabric set aside for her and some cute ideas, so we'll see what happens!

A casual spring/summer dress for my modern wardrobe - the half dozen dresses I have in my modern wardrobe are either cold-weather dresses or slightly too formal for most occasions. I'm considering view C or D of Simplicity 8914 or a stripey late-1910s/early-1920s-inspired dress. Either way, I would have to buy fabric for this project.

See? A very restrained and much more realistic set of goals.

There are really only three "big" projects on here (the open robe, combinations, and summer dress), and those would all start from a pattern. This list is also mostly stash projects, so we'll see if I can get through 2022 without buying much fabric! And hey, I've already got two small projects under my belt.

Whatever your plans are for the new year, I wish you the best!

Stay warm. Stay safe. Stay healthy.

[whennnow]

2021 Project Wrap Up

December 29, 2021

What a year, huh? It managed to be both better and worse than 2020 was. Looking back on 2021, I feel like I barely did any sewing at all, but that's not true. I did a decent amount of sewing up until September (hello promotion with a higher hour requirement). But let's dig into my sewing this year.

Goals

I had three goals this year: stash busting, making an 1890s corset, and making Regency headwear.

The corset and Regency headwear goals were both very well accomplished, if I do say so myself.

Stash-busting is a bit more complicated. On the one hand, I only bought two new cuts of fabric, and they were both used immediately for a project (the corset and some shorts). On the other hand, I barely made a dent in my stash, and even inherited some more fabric from my grandmother. So I think my net stash bust/gain is about zero.

Project Round-Up

18th century pieced pockets (all stash materials, mostly hand sewn with some machine work on the binding)

Blue brocade reticule (machine sewn with less than stellar results)

Light blue Regency bonnet (millinery kit with stash fashion fabric, hand sewn)

Hair and clothes for Adelaide, a cloth doll (stash fabric, hand sewn)

Disassembled & reassembled a #gaptothepast blouse (machine sewn)

Sheer drapes for the living room (a big chunk of my stash, machine sewn)

1890s corset (bought fabric, machine sewn)

Red Regency ribbon bodice (bought ribbon, hand sewn)

Blue Regency ribbon bodice (bought ribbon, hand sewn)

Decorated a straw Regency bonnet (ribbon leftover from bodice, hand sewn)

"Boardwalk Duet" top and shorts (stash for the bodice, bought for the shorts, machine sewn)

Olivia's 18th century pockets (stash fabric, machine sewn)

Fall dress for Adelaide (stash fabric, hand sewn)

Alterations to green/black double-knit dress (thrifted dress, machine sewn)

Mini work smock for Oscar, a stuffed raccoon (donated fabric, machine sewn)

Altogether, I managed to knock a whopping four (4) projects off my project goal list for this year, which is... not a lot. Five if you count my chemisette wip. But I did give myself a very aspirational 15-project list. My project goal list for next year will just have to be shorter/more realistic. If I set the bar lower, it should be easier to reach, right?

That's not to say I'm not proud of my work this year, though. I made a corset for the first time ever and it turned out well! I actually wear it as back support when I know I'll be at my desk at home all day. I got into millinery for the first time too, with much success. I went from having no Regency headwear to having two lovely bonnets!

So what will the next year hold? I can't know for certain, but that won't stop me from making plans!

I hope that, whatever happened this year, you find some joy to take into the new year. Take care of yourself.

Stay warm. Stay safe. Stay healthy.

[whennnow]

2021 Project Goals

January 6, 2021

Last year I finished a dream project of mine (the white Regency dress). This year I'd like to expand my Regency wardrobe with some help from my stash and lay the groundwork (or the foundation) for getting into the late 1890s.

I also have a new-to-me sewing machine! It's a Singer 5825 (if memory serves) and will need a suitably musical name and probably a professional cleaning. It has a LOT more knobs and levers than I'm used to!

What follows is an absurdly aspirational list of project ideas for 2021. *Top priority projects are starred.

Regency Era

I've got a solid basic garment, decent underthings, and some nice jewelry, so it's time to expand my wardrobe and level up! I also intend to purchase a pair of long gloves and silk stockings this year.

*A Chemisette - I intend to use fabric left over from my white dress for this, and one of the patterns from the AD Guide.

*Open Robe with Removable Sleeves - I have a silk-like fabric in my stash that would look stunning for the American Duchess/Simplicity 8941 pattern! I'll make the sleeves removable for maximum versatility.

Open Robe 2 with Short Sleeves - I've got a plum-colored striped poly taffeta that would look lovely for an open robe like this. Patterning it could be a fun challenge!

*Headwear - I have my eye on a straw bonnet which I would decorate, but I may also make a turban, or even dive into millinery with a Timely Tresses kit or an Out of a Portrait pattern.

Reticules - I have two poly damask scraps that would be fun as reticules, and plenty of other scrap fabric too. Any I make will be lined in scrap cotton.

Vest/Spencer/Bodice - I have a lot of stash fabrics that enough to make a spencer - yet alone a dress - but they would make excellent bodices to wear over my white dress!

1895-1905-ish

Time for a new era! I've always adored turn-of-the-century fashions, but I know that I'll need proper foundations before I start planning anything else, so this is my entry point to this era.

*Corset - This will be the most structural piece and my first foray into corsetry! I intend to start this right away and give myself all year to finish. I'm currently looking at patterns in the Symington collection as a starting point.

Combinations - Definitely of the split-leg variety, with lots of ruffles and lace. I think I'll use either Truly Victorian's E02 Edwardian Underwear pattern or Folkwear 203 Edwardian Underthings.

Corset Cover - Using the same pattern, probably.

Small Bustle/Bum and Hip Pad - I'm not curvy in the slightest, so I'll need some... extra help. Something like this or this (or maybe I'll just buy one of those.) Virgil's Fine Goods also has a hip and bum pad pattern out.

Bust Enhancer - Again, sometimes the proper silhouette requires some added enhancements. Wearing History has this e-pattern for a "Bust Improver."

*The GapToThePast blouse - I bought it, took it apart with the intention of improving the sleeves... and then didn't.

Misc.

*1930s Bra and Tap Pants - I bought Reconstructing History's 1336 awhile ago and just never got around to it. I'll start with a wearable mockup from stash fabric, but I might eventually do a set from nicer fabric.

18th Century Shirt - Truly a classic. I think I deserve one. I think it would improve my life. I want to splurge on linen.

Handkerchiefs - I already have some nice handkerchief-sized pieces of white cotton set aside from when I made my neckerchief/fichu. They just need to be hemmed and embroidered.

[whennnow]

2020 Wrap-Up

December 30, 2020

This hell year is finally ending, so I wanted to look back at my successes from this year.

Goals

Back in January, I set some sewing goals for myself. My goals were not project-based this year, though that will be changing next year, as you'll see soon.

Goal 1: Stash busting. I did really well with this goal! While my stash isn't significantly smaller, it also wasn't overly large to begin with. Only two projects (my white Regency dress and its petticoat) used exclusively new materials, but that dress has been in the planning stage for upwards of six years so I don't feel the slightest bit bad about it.

Goal 2: Better habits in general, including pressing my seams and not sewing over pins.

I am pleased to announce that I have been pressing all of my seams this year. Unfortunately this led to me finally killing my mom's 25-year-old iron, but I bought a new one which was exciting in its own way.

I think I was good about not sewing over pins too, but it's been a few months since I did any machine sewing and I can't remember. I definitely think about it more, though, so there's that.

Goal 3: Learn embroidery.

I have some embroidery experience, but I jumped at the chance to learn more when a friend pointed me toward "Take a Stitch Tuesday" from PinTangle. Each Tuesday is a chance to learn a new embroidery stitch/technique. I got behind sometimes, but I always caught up!

What did I learn?

Now, better habits isn't the only thing I gained this year. I learned a lot of new skills too!

My first new skill this year was buttonholes. And in the "go big or go home" mindset, my first project of the year involved twelve of them, and I did five more across two different projects later in the year.

Skill number 2 was a zipper. I have never sewn a zipper before in my life, but I managed to set an invisible zipper correctly on the first try! It's amazing what you can do when you read the instructions instead of winging it.

Skills 3 & 4 are using a gridded pattern and (drastically) altering a pattern. I used a gridded pattern as the base for my Regency dress. It was taken from an extant garment, so it was only one size and required some adjustments to fit me. There's also the fact that I was going for a different sort of closure and had to make some additional alterations.

Project Round-Up

The "Girl Detective" Dress, McCall's M7470 (machine construction, hand finishing, needs minor alterations)

A small pillow from the remnants of my curtains (machine sewing)

Green Regency dress alterations (hand and machine sewing)

49 masks - seven to donate, the rest for me and my family (machine sewing)

Vintage Simplicity skirt (machine construction, hand finishing)

Sewed 22 decorative patches onto my denim jacket

1920s brassiere

Regency petticoat (machine sewing)

Additional boning for Regency short stays (handsewn)

Adding buttonholes and a drawstring to my sibling's pajama pants (handsewn)

Faux coral jewelry set - A matching necklace, bracelet, and earrings made using faux red coral beads

White Regency dress (handsewn)

18th century neckerchief/Regecy fichu (handsewn)

Pieced 18th century pockets (started, but unfinished)

Doll-sized shift and petticoat

Followed along with "Take a Stitch Tuesday" (a weekly embroidery challenge) from Pintangle

My creativity and motivation really came in waves this year. The mini pillow, 50s skirt, 20s bra, and some masks were all done in the month of May. Then nothing in June. Then my Regency petticoat and green dress alterations in July and the entire white Regency dress and more masks in August and the first week of September. Later in September I started a pair of heavily pieced 18th century pockets, but it's now December and they're still not done.

I have hope for next year, though. I intend to start strong with some simple machine sewn projects for the sake of stash busting and immediate gratification (namely curtains and pillowcases), then get back to historical sewing (but you'll hear more about that soon ;) ).

I also have a new sewing machine to get acquainted with! I've been using my mother's machine up till now, but back in August I received a second-hand machine from a friend's grandmother (who is in good health, she just wanted a new machine for herself, and my friend already has a machine of his own). It's a different brand than my mother's is and has a lot more knobs and levers, so it's a little intimidating!

I hope you find something positive to hold on to from this year, and I hope you have something to look forward to in the coming year. Take care of yourself and take care of each other.

Stay warm. Stay safe. Stay healthy.