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[octuscle]

Mick - Good Boy To Chav

"ANTISOCIAL I DON'T LIKE YOU". Great shirt, Michael thought. With his lanky torso, he'd probably look a little silly in it. But to shock his stuffy middle-class parents, it would be just the thing. They hadn't thought it was a good idea for him to travel around England alone for six weeks during the summer vacations. They probably just thought he was too young and inexperienced at just 18 years old. But Michael had had a great time, with the last of his money he had been able to afford three more days in London in a shabby hotel, and now he had found a souvenir.

Sunday, departure day. Michael didn't really appreciate the breakfast at the hotel, but he was hungry and probably he would have to eat more for a longer time after the greasy English Breakfast. So he showered, styled his hair, put on jeans us sneakers and took the tank top.

08:00

No sooner had he put it on than an electric shock went through him. For a second his eyes went black. He shook himself, grabbed his key and descended the narrow steep stairs to the breakfast room located in the basement. He only had to wear the shirt for a few seconds and it had taken possession of him. He was antisocial now. And with every minute he wore the shirt, his mind and body would change, as if he had lived his antisocial life for another week.

08:05

Michael enters the breakfast room. Since he met his new pals a few weeks ago, his skull has been freshly shaved every morning. But no one here cares. There are enough other chavs with short hair hanging out here at the hotel.

08:30

Michael had wolfed down his breakfast. Since he had gotten the job on the construction site organized by his pals, he could eat like nothing. And table manners were nothing for unskilled construction workers.

09:00

He had packed his clothes into his big gym bag. Fuck, at some point he really had to wash, it stank like in the boys' toilet of a sports hall. Which was very horny. Before he left the room, he went to piss again. Damn he had a pressure on the bladder. The toilet bowl he hit only so half, the bathroom filled from the splashes of his piss with a fine mist. Michael looked in the mirror and licked the mist from his lips. His tattoos were really coming along. And the tunnels in his ears even more so. But there was still plenty left… I wonder what the lads would think of a tattoo on his bald head.

09:10

In the backyard of the hotel by the garbage cans, Mike had to suck the dick of the fella at the front desk. That was the price he had to pay for bumming a cigarette. He'd had worse deals than that. Sucks that he had to leave the hotel, but as long as he didn't have a paycheck, he had to stay with a pal.

09:30

He had bought another pack of cigarettes from the last of his money. Now he was waiting for the bus. Hopefully none of the mangy inspectors would come, he didn't have a ticket. But with the fat tunnels in his ears and his two full sleaves, no one would talk to him anyway. And the toil on the construction site had left visible traces on his body. He really looked like one of the bad guys.

10:00 a.m.

He hung out with his pals in his new room. The mattress had been cummed on more than once. Even without his dirty clothes, it stank pathetically of sweat, beer and cigarettes. Mick stripped off his sneakers and held his filthy socks in Gaz's face. The first of his pals began to jerk his cock. Kyle sucked Liam's prick. The orgy could begin.

12:00

Before there was pay on Monday, his lads and he were broke once again. He didn't need to ask his parents for money, he hadn't had any contact with them in years. But tonight Mick would help out at the wholesale market. Floor cleaning and garbage disposal in the meat market hall. There would be a few pounds pay for that. And for that, his pals and he would get credit at the pub. Life as an antisocial chav was the best life!

[myselfariana]

Apart from a few, almost every sport out there has made socks a mandatory part of the uniform. Be it football, cricket, tennis or hockey, men and women alike are expected to wear sports socks while in the field or playing at a tournament. While considered as optional in our day to day to day lives, when it comes to sports, socks are a must. Retailers should not compromise on quality when it comes to sports socks since quality is key in fitness apparel. Only the best wholesale socks and sport socks manufacturer can provide superior quality products at unbelievable prices.

[adalbertosoos-blog]

He had a reputation for fairness

Does it reek of hypocrisy? Of course it does. But if we don't come together, have the conversation, draw a line in the sand and then move on, we are all screwed."My initial reaction is that I'm not surprised. As I've said, it was an unfortunate era for all of us, and virtually all of us broke the rules and lied about it."One of the winners nfl jerseys, as the French Senate reopened some of cycling's most stubborn wounds, was Tour de France champion Chris Froome.

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[myselfariana]

[myselfariana]

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[luckylq59-blog]

During football season and any other time of the year

The 49ers were widely regarded as the only team capable of displacing the Dallas Cowboys, the reigning Super Bowl champions, but lost 24 17 with Montana displaying much of the poise under pressure that had distinguished him as a 49er. The conclusions were obvious, if unjust. It did not matter that Young was playing behind a threadbare offensive line and suffered a beating.

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[mancitynoise]

The build-up to any major tournament is a time of great uncertainty. Who will make the 23-man squad? How will England fare on the big stage? Who will they narrowly go out to on penalties in the quarter finals?

This summer, though, amidst the miasma of unknowns, there were two things so assured we could set our watches by them happening. In the immediate weeks leading up to a World Cup, The Sun would manufacture a scandal involving a member of the England squad. And their fall-guy was always going to be Raheem Sterling.

How did we know this for sure before it even came to pass? Well, the first bit required very little deduction beyond possessing a basic knowledge of the English media because this is what The Sun newspaper does; this is their M.O. Every two years without fail they feed into the excitement and anticipation of the general public and attempt to whip up a storm of indignity. Should one not immediately present itself they are more than happy to reach into the realms of the silly because they know if they shout loud enough about pretty much anything they hold sufficient sway over their readership to trigger a percentage to respond in kind.

For The Sun – and let’s be clear here that other tabloids are guilty of such nefariousness but never is Murdoch’s rag anywhere other than leading from the front – this bi-annual approach is win-win-win. The morally bankrupt institution stations itself erroneously as the nation’s moral arbitrator. They shift units. And they destabilise the national football team thus increasing the chances of failure which in turn leads to a greater capacity for sensationalistic headlines.

So we duly waited for it to come, as sure as night follows day and faux outrage feasts on something good and positive.

But why Sterling? How could we be so certain it would be the Manchester City striker targeted? That was elementary. After all, it was hardly going to be Albion’s great white hope Harry Kane was it? His persona has already been carefully defined as a clean-cut hero complete with childhood sweetheart. Should the Spurs forward stumble – as he did in Euro 2016 – that can be left to the sports guys to deal with. Should he prevail and score lots of goals, that affords the country’s second largest selling newspaper a golden opportunity to wheel out the white van icon Geoff Hurst and have the pair pictured together arm-in-arm in a front page splash for the ages. If the Sun reporter could sneak in a framed photograph of Douglas Bader on the wall behind them then all the better.

What then of Jordan Pickford’s tattoo of a dagger? Presently the disturbing increase in knife crime is a national talking point so perhaps there was a potential – and utterly ludicrous – tie-in there? Perhaps Pickford was a contender? But no: the Everton keeper looks like a lost puppy and he is young, bless him (he is one year older than Sterling). Furthermore, he is white.

It was always going to be Sterling because it always is Sterling.

There he is tired, look, because it’s the middle of the night; and driving an unwashed car because he doesn’t give a s**t; and openly mocking our cheap eating habits by scoffing a sausage roll; and openly mocking our cheap flying habits by using easyJet and then openly mocking our bank balances by taking TWO expensive holidays.

Look there he is, the unscrupulous swine, proposing like a love-rat; and showing off a sink he’s bought his mum that is better than the type us hoi polloi get from Homebase; and going to Primark while on a gazillion a week and getting his batteries from Poundland and just when you think the toe-rag couldn’t disgrace himself more, he then goes off to have some breakfast after missing out on a Young Player of the Year Award! There he is, Sterling the ‘footie idiot’ (The Sun); a ‘symbol of the amorality at the heart of the so-called Beautiful Game’ (Mail Online).

Ever since a 20-year-old Sterling had the temerity to switch from one Premier League club to another in 2015 (one of 27 players who did so that summer alone) an industry of hate has built up around a clearly decent and perfectly normal young man. It has been a relentless, obsessive and downright weird campaign, unprecedented in its voracity and designed to turn Raheem into a national bogeyman (or a ‘symbol of amorality’).

So with a scapegoat needed to undertake their traditional pre-tournament bashing of the national football team, why on earth would The Sun waste all of their hard work castigating someone entirely new? The groundwork had already been done and that’s a huge understatement, while frankly it’s barely an overstatement to claim that so poisonous has been their coverage that on Tuesday they need only have put up a large photograph of the player with his name below it. That alone would have riled up the haters no end. Look at him there, playing football. Like he thinks he’s better than us.

As it was they went with a tattoo featuring an assault rifle on the player’s calf, but let’s move past that for two interconnected reasons. Firstly, the story is ridiculous and manufactured. It’s the faux-outrage that is outrageous, not what a footballer has inked onto his body. Secondly, the non-issue has thankfully been debunked, ridiculed and levelled with reason elsewhere many times over.

Yet there is one aspect to the farrago that has not been mentioned enough in my opinion, and more so it’s an aspect that directly relates to what this article is about – which is not the witch-hunt of a player per se (a subject I have written about several times for this very site) but questioning why The Sun insists on demoralising its national team ahead of every major tournament.

Should you have picked up The Sun newspaper earlier this week and seen their hysterical coverage of the offending tattoo it would be understandable if you assumed the ink was barely dry. Perhaps Sterling had intended to premiere it at the World Cup? If it was a magic tattoo that is with the ability to radiate through his sock.

In fact a reliable report has suggested that it was done way back in late October and even if that’s not the case it was certainly done prior to City winning the league as photographs of Raheem celebrating clearly show the tattoo in evidence.

So The Sun sat on this. They waited and given they have previously screamed blue murder over the player in question eating cereal or walking alongside a female mate in Jamaica, it can be surmised that it was not a story relegated to their in-tray without good reason.

They waited for the season to finish. They waited for the excitement and anticipation of England’s participation in Russia 2018 to build up some steam. They waited for the most damaging time to mentally disrupt a key figure for Gareth Southgate’s team, a player who scored 23 times last season and was otherwise flying.

This therefore was not just an attack on Raheem Sterling. This was an attack on our national side.

Which, as previously stated, is The Sun’s M.O.

Unique to this country to attempt to destroy our players morale before a major tournament. It’s weird, unpatriotic and sad. https://t.co/vCfVTm9w0r

— Gary Lineker (@GaryLineker) May 28, 2018

“Unique to this country to attempt to destroy our player’s morale before a major tournament. It’s weird, unpatriotic and sad”. That’s how Gary Lineker this week described the newspaper’s fetish of undermining our hopes and the only criticism I have towards his response lies in the use of ‘unpatriotic’.

It should have been written out in capital letters.

So why do they do it, this comic that hilariously professes to have the country’s best interests at heart? Pure and simple it comes down to numbers and opportunity, because prior to any major sporting event a vacuum needs to be filled, a disparity that has a lot of interest from the general public but not a great deal to write about. So that’s all it is really. A business decision. A chance to shift a few extra papers even if it means shafting something that its readers hold dear.

It of course doesn’t end there, though. That’s just the start of it. This summer – just like 2016 and 2014 and 2012 and 2010 and back through time – The Sun, having given ‘our boys’ an entirely unnecessary kicking to weaken their resolve will then enact a staggering volte-face come the tournament’s kick-off.

Indeed by the middle of June this joke of a publication will turn full John Bull, plastering tub-thumping jingoism onto its front page while alluding that 11 footballers are going into battle, held strong by the ghostly spirit of the Somme. We few, we happy few. We band of brothers.

Personally I find this stage to be the most unnerving. It’s like a psychopath enquiring about the health of old Mrs Higgins down the road while cradling a puppy. It gives me the creeps if truth be told.

Then, when England exit having been defeated by a very good international rival another volte-face; another dramatic shift. They are a disgrace who should not be allowed back into the country. The manager is a vegetable. The venom returns. The fangs. The spite.

This familiar, well-worn pattern reveals highly schizophrenic tendencies but an individual can be schizophrenic not a major news organisation staffed by hundreds. So we have to ask ourselves – which is their natural state of being? Which is the real Sun and which extreme is fake?

Surely deep down even the Manchurian Candidates who swallow the newspaper’s lies and bile wholesale must know the answer to that one. Hate leaves ugly scars that are visible to even the blind.

Don’t buy the Sun. In football, as in life, they set out only to do England down for their own advancement. They are the enemy within.  

They are a tattoo that we wish was temporary but which stains our very soul.

[pendantofnecklaces-blog]

18 Unknown Facts about the Harry Potter - J. K. Rowling revealed the secrets of the Harry Potter

New Post has been published on https://www.pendantofnecklaces.com/18-unknown-facts-harry-potter-j-k-rowling-revealed-secrets-harry-potter/

18 Unknown Facts about the Harry Potter - J. K. Rowling revealed the secrets of the Harry Potter

18 Unknown Facts about the Harry Potter – J. K. Rowling revealed the secrets of the Harry Potter.

18 Unknown Facts about the Harry Potter – J. K. Rowling revealed the secrets of the Harry Potter.

K. Rowling periodically publishes in his Twitter and gives in the interview portion of “revelations” about the characters in his famous Saga. Portal Entertainment Weekly presented a new set of 18 unknown facts about the heroes of “Harry Potter”, which will be interesting for all fans of the novel.

The eldest son of Harry and Ginny, James Sirius Potter, has distributed in Gryffindor – there, where were his parents. I think it is a surprise for anybody did not become.

At Hagrid’s Patronus was not – so good-natured does not have its own protection against the Dementors. Rowling said that this spell was “Very difficult.”

It turns out that the name of the main villain of the “Harry Potter”, Lord Voldemort (or, as we more habitually, Volan de mort), is pronounced wrong. The author of the novel said that “always forgets to mention one little things” – the letter t in the name of the Dark Lord silent. That is, it would be correct to call it Voldemor. However, “I’m sure I’m the only person who pronounces his name this way,” added Rowling.

Excellent student Hermione found guilty of illegal witchcraft. The writer said that the spell “bottomless purse”, which the girl used to hide many useful travel things, is considered to be “strictly controlled” in the Ministry of Magic. However, to punish Hermione did not, because the handbag also contributed to the victory over he-Who-Not-Call.

Blond Luna Lovegood sign is Aquarius. About Rowling said, after she received a question from a fan of the “Harry Potter” – he really wanted to know, when the eccentric hero’s birthday. February 13, – was the answer.

In the United State there is a School of witchcraft and wizardry. To the great delight of American fans, Joan said that many witches and wizards are educated in school in their homeland. Details the writer has promised to reveal “in due time”, but said that the school is not in New York and is associated with Indian culture. “But if I call the tribes will reveal the location,” said Rowling.

The sorting hat of Hogwarts “thinks” usually less than five minutes. The writer explained that Hermione Granger, Neville Longbottom, and Harry Potter sat under the hat longer than the other students did. However, when the “initiation” took place, a young Professor Minerva McGonagall and an accomplice of the Dark Lord Peter Pettigrew was the so-called “slapout” (hatstalls) – hat thought for more than five minutes. She could not determine where to send McGonagall in Ravenclaw or Gryffindor, Pettigrew the choice was between Gryffindor and Slytherin. Thus, “slapton” has happened only twice.

Learning at Hogwarts is free. A message Rowling did when on one of the portals tried to calculate the cost of an annual stay of one student (to get a decent amount – more than 43 thousand dollars a year). However, the writer refuted the possibility of charging tuition fees, “All costs borne by the Ministry of Magic.”

“Leaky Cauldron” – the famous pub in Diagon alley – could destroy. It turns out that the school has faced with a problem at the end of the XIX century, during the construction of the street, Charming Cross road. The Minister of magic said, addressing the Wizengamot (the Supreme Council of magicians of England) that “Leaky Cauldron” could not be saved. However, the magical community did not agree. Rowling said that wizards cast a forbidden spell of Imperius on a few urban planners (although this has never proven). In addition, they revised the plan. The pub has saved.

Rowling stated that there are 11 different schools of magic. This information has revealed in the article about located in Eastern Europe Durmstrang, which has “the darkest reputation of all the 11 schools of magic”. In addition, the writer mentioned the European Academy of magic Balaton and Japanese school of magic Macotakara.

Most of the young wizards of Hogwarts begin their education at age 11. What kind of education they receive before? “Most are homeschooled because before that age, children are not able to control their magical capabilities, it’s too dangerous,” explained Rowling in an interview with TIME magazine.

Most cherished dreams Dumbledore has related to his family. Harry Potter the magician said that he saw himself in the magical mirror of Erised in plush socks. Nevertheless, Rowling said that the Director of Hogwarts really have seen otherwise: “Members of his family, they were all alive and made up.”

In July 2015, in the ongoing Twitter discussion about the BBC, the writer mentioned that uncle Harry Potter Vernon Dursley is a fan of one of the biggest shows of the network: “He likes Top Gear”.

Teddy Lupin – son killed during the final battle at Hogwarts, Remus Lupin and Tonks Nymphadora – became the President of Puffenduya. As explained Rowling, upon learning that James Sirius Potter has assigned to Gryffindor, Teddy was disappointed.

Moaning Myrtle has a full name. The famous Ghost that lives in the toilet, so named because she constantly mourned his unhappy fate. The girl with one look killed the Basilisk, released Tom Redlon. The author of the novel has revealed the secret that the hero is actually named Myrtle Elizabeth Warren: “I hasten to add that nothing to do with the American politician Elizabeth Warren she has! Elizabeth is one of the most common classic British names”.

Puffenduya won the Cup for Hogwarts. About Rowling said on Twitter in early September. Recall, this is the school, where he studied the famous Cedric Diggory, the Pomona sprout, Nymphadora Tonks, as well as the author of the book “Fantastic beasts and their habitats”, newt Scamander.

Draco Malfoy and Neville Longbottom married graduates of Hogwarts. Draco’s wife was Astoria Greengrass, the younger sister of his classmate Daphne Greengrass. In addition, Neville married a graduate of Puffenduya Hannah Abbott, the future owner of the Leaky Cauldron.

Rowling said that happened to her characters in the future. Harry Potter joined the Ministry of Magic as mrakovica (Aurora). His wife Ginny became a sports journalist at the Daily Prophet, having finished his professional career in the Quidditch team. Ron Weasley worked at the Ministry for a short time, and then engaged, along with his elder brother, wholesale and retail “all Kinds of magic brodilki”. Hermione Granger made a career in the Ministry of magic, rising to Deputy Head of the Department of magical law enforcement.

[theaalvarezworld-blog]

Chapter Ten: MEN’S APPAREL

Key Concepts:

▪️The history of the menswear industry. 

▪️ Categories of men’s apparel,

▪️Roles of brand names and designer names in the marketing of menswear. 

▪️Advertising and promotional activities in the marketing of men’s apparel. 

HISTORY OF MEN’S APPAREL INDUSTRY

We’ve said it time and time again, menswear is ruled by history and tradition. Every person in menswear (designer, stylist, editor, etc) has taken inspiration from the past at one time or another. And no era has been overlooked.

Therefore, as we continue to explore the foundations of personal style via our Menswear 101 articles, I thought we’d take a quick look back at the last hundred-or-so years in men’s fashion. Perhaps this will provide a little insight or context as to how menswear shifts, and more importantly, how we can make informed decisions when it comes to buying clothing and developing personal style.

LATE 1800S: LAST OF THE VICTORIANS

As the nineteenth century came to an end men were slowly shaking-off the Victorian influence which still had them wearing tophats, frock coats, and pocket watches while carrying walking sticks. This may seem like an elaborate and restrictive way to dress, but it was a big step in the right direction considering the Georgian period that proceeded it had men wearing feathers, panty hose, and high heels. And you thought you were a “dandy”.

1900S: TALL, LONG & LEAN

As we moved into the 1900s men’s clothing was predominantly utilitarian and rather unimaginative. The long, lean, and athletic silhouette of the late 1890s persisted, and tall, stiff collars characterize the period. Three-piece suits consisting of a sack coat with matching waistcoat and trousers were worn, as were matching coat and waistcoat with contrasting trousers, or matching coat and trousers with contrasting waistcoat. Sounds familiar, right? Trousers were shorter than before, often had “turn-ups” or “cuffs“, and were creased front and back using the newly-invented trouser press.

1920S – BROADENING HORIZONS

After the war (which introduced numerous classic menswear designs which are still used today, like trench coats and cargos), business started to pick-up and Americans had more money. More money allowed them to travel more and broaden their horizons culturally and aesthetically. Many crossed the Atlantic to England and France. Naturally they returned with suitcases full of the latest fashions being worn overseas.

1930S: THE HEIGHT OF ELEGANCE

The begining of the 1930s saw the great depression. Although the average man couldn’t afford to partake in the world of fashion, many often enjoyed observing the style choices of those who could. Hollywood films on the Silver Screen became a beacon for hope for the working class man living in this era. Men and women alike looked with admiration and aspiration to elegantly dressed stars like Fred Astaire, Clark Gabel, Cary Grant, and Gary Cooper.

1940S: THE BIRTH OF READY-TO-WEAR

With the end of World War II, American men strayed from the high standards and basic principles of fine dress established in the thirties. Part of this was changes in the workforce and the loss of formality in everyday life. With lower demand, the price of custom tailoring rose, which allowed for the mass production of menswear to takeover as the everyday norm. This period saw the introduction of mass produced ready-to-wear clothing in America, by some brands that are still selling us clothing today.

1950S: THE AGE OF CONFORMITY

The 1950s was the Age of Conformity. Young men returning from the military were anxious to fit right in with the establishment. Fitting in and “looking the part” meant taking on the Ivy League look, which was dominating menswear. Individuality in style of clothing was an afterthought. The goal was to look “part of the club”, in a boxy sack suit, oxford shirt, rep tie, and loafers. This was another big boost for mass Ready-to-Wear manufacturers who gladly sold the same ill-fitting tweed jackets to any young man trying to look smart and employable.

Little happened in men’s fashion until the 1960’s when suddenly menswear blossomed, cultivated by fads (British rock groups, Mod look, Edward-ian look) that changed the shape. These Revolu-tionary Fashions included social revolution such as long hair, beards, jeans, tie-dye, adop-tion of African clothing, dashiki, collarless woven shirts. Revolutionary Fabrics evolved with tech-nology influenced synthetics and knits boomed in the 70s (double-knit suit, circular knit shirt, in-terlock underwear, knit ties, jersey knit socks). Permanent-press finish of cotton introduced no iron shirts.

1980S: POWER DRESSING

In the 1980s things got a little more serious, with broad shoulders framing power ties and suspenders. Bold colors and graphic patterns conveyed a new national confidence and businessmen took to power dressing with an emphasis on expensive clothing and gaudy accessories.

1990S: BAGGY BUSINESS CASUAL

This may be perhaps the worst-dressed decade of them all. The fashion in the 1990s was the genesis of a sweeping shift in the western world: the beginning of the adoption of tattoos and body piercings. This brought back the indifferent, anti-conformist approach to fashion, leading to the popularization of the casual chic look; this included T-shirts, distressed jeans, oversized hoodies, and trainers. “Business Casual” also enters the lexicon as corporate offices generally become less formal, ultimately causing the suit to get bigger and uglier than ever.

2000S: HIP-HOP & EUROPEAN TAILORING

Menswear in the new millennium was influenced primarily by hip-hop culture for the youth, and European “slim fit” tailoring for the older gents. The suit finally started to slim down, as the “European cut” became highly sought after in America, to the point where eventually it became hard to find stores that didn’t carry “slim fit”. The internet also made it easier for men to learn about menswear and share their opinions with fellow style enthusiasts. We saw the birth of the first menswear blogs, with this one starting in 2009.

2010S: THE EVOLUTION OF STYLE ONLINE

The 2010s have brought us the evolution of the “fashion star”. Fashion bloggers have become mainstream. On the one hand, suddenly fashion is in the hands of the people, producing a larger variety of styles, reviews, and opinions than ever before. On the other hand, those being watched are naturally encouraged to try harder and harder to stand out from the crowd. “Peacocking” became a menswear term in the early part of the decade for “trying too hard”, although men have generally become more confortable with subtle, tasteful styling.

ORGANIZATION AND OPERATION OF THE INDUSTRY

The Federal Government uses these 5 classifications (although not of-ficial classification, sportswear has become a vital portion of the busi-ness and should be considered a menswear category):

Tailored clothing – Suits, overcoats, topcoats, sports coat, formal wear, and trousers.

Furnishings – Dress shirts, neckwear, sweaters, headwear, under-wear, socks, etc.

Outerwear – Raincoats, coats, jackets, and active sportswear. 

Work clothing – work shirts, work pants, overalls, and related items.

Other – Miscellaneous items and uniforms.

ORGANIZATION AND OPERATION OF THE INDUSTRY:

Size and Location of Manufacturers Key players include Levi Strauss, VF Corp, PVH in mid-Atlantic. Industry centers are gradu-ally moving with expansion to south and west. Guess and LA Gear are companies expanding in LA with Nautica and Patagonia in San Francisco and Eddie Bauer in Seattle.

Dual Distribution  Apparel is made available through both wholesale and retail channels; that is, the manufacturer sells it in its own retail stores as well as retail stores owned by others.

Designing a Line  For generations designer names were known only within the trade and were seldom considered important by consumers. Traditionally, they were the English styling led fash-ions (Savile Row). But, process to produce was too slow. The first signs of male rebellion in late 1940s was with the Ivy League (natural shoulder) suit and in the 1960s with the “Peacock revolu-tion”. Men were taking pride in their looks with long hair, bold suits, bright shirts, leisure suits, and shiny boots.

THE IMPORTANCE OF NAME DESIGNERS 

Designer names in  menswear mushroomed in the 1960s. Most were Women’s Wear designers from Europe. Oleg Cassini, John Weitz, Bill Blass, and Ralph Lauren were 1st Americans. To-day, the “name game” is big business in all seg-ments of the industry.

Italian designers: Armani, Brioni, Ver-sace, D+G, Kiton, Zegna.

Belgian: Raf Simons Leading 

US: Ralph, Calvin, Tommy

Menswear has never been more interesting than it is right now. If you’ve been paying attention, then you already know that we’re in a moment where traditional tailoring, streetwear, and avant-garde fashion coexist and even complement one another on the street, on the runways, and in the press. And that’s significant, considering the glacial pace at which men’s fashion has historically moved—going long periods of time without experiencing much change beyond the widening and narrowing of lapels, shirt collars, or pant legs. Emerging designers are having major breakouts (Craig Green), established designers are finding new ways to break through (Raf Simons), and up-and-coming brands are breaking new ground (Our Legacy). With the Fall 2015 season upon us—shows start in London on Friday—here’s our guide to the men’s fashion names you need to know, a list that reflects the fluid, dynamic state of menswear in 2015.

               ORGANIZATION AND OPERATION OF THE INDUSTRY

MAIN MARKET SEGMENTS IN MENSWEAR

Tailored Clothing : structured suits, overcoats, topcoats, sports coats, formal wear + separate slacks that require hand-tailoring; de-cline in demand; top in price and quality

Designer Suits : suits sized on a “seven-inch drop”, drop referring to the difference in inches between Chest measurement of jacket and Waist measurement of pants; differences also between natural shoulder or European styling

Production : a long, complicated process; styles selected, fabric ordered 9 months in advance, manufacturers do not cut until buyers or-ders confirmed, suit sizing

Suit Separates : sports jackets and trousers; machine-made and significantly lower in price; some believe men who buy separates are more “fashion-aware” than those that need the reassurance of preas-sembled look.

Sportswear or casual wear: runs the gamut from unconstructed jackets, knit/woven sports shirts, slacks, leisure shorts to coordinated tops/ bottoms; fastest growing segment of the men-swear industry since 1970s; fulfills men’s interest in having more variety in their wardrobes; sports-wear production differs from tailored wear where sportswear manufacturers are interested in short runs (the production of a limited number of units of a particular item, fewer than would normally be considered and average number to produce) and

a quick response to customer demand; narrow size range; contractors are handle production work most successfully.

MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING

Like Women’s Wear, Menswear producers back their lines with adver-tising and publicity. Menswear highly relies on agencies, freelancers, and less often on in-house departments for advertising and publicity.

Major publicity efforts are still undertaken by trade associationswhich sponsor market weeks, trade shows, and other promotions de-signed to publicize individual producers and the industry as a whole.

Link: 

https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052970204517204577042132703157156

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oH0gPHZkvMQ

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