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A Coombsville Cabernet Gamble Pays Off (Wine Spectator)
Senior editor James Molesworth is Wine Spectator's lead taster for California Cabernet Sauvignon. He recently returned to Napa Valley for more visits with top wineries. And don't miss our Q&A with James on his Napa Cab eureka moments, his scoring philosophy, and what he's up to when he's not tasting wine.
Following my visit with Paul Hobbs, a Napa Valley veteran but a relative newcomer to the Coombsville AVA, I stopped in at one of Coombsville's pioneers.
Located adjacent toHobbs' vineyards, Faust's 130-acre property was planted by the Huneeus familyin 1998, making it one ofthe earliest vineyard developments in the area, following Caldwell and Farella. Thereare 112 acres planted, primarily to Cabernet Sauvignon, with a bit of Merlot,Syrah, Petit Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc. Planted under the guidance of ValeriaHuneeus, a proponent of biodynamic farming, the site is farmed organicallytoday.
General manager JenniferBeloz, 43, has been working with the Huneeus family since 2011, and moved to theFaust project in 2015. David Jelinek, 48, handles winemaking. Following stintsat Epoch, Harlan (read about my visit there in August)and Groth, he joined the Huneeus team in 2010 and Faust in2015. Viticulturist Garrett Buckland, 38, started at Faust in 2017 afterearning his wings working with Steve Matthiasson.
"It's not Highway 29,"says Beloz as she describes her affinity for the Coombsville area (and its proximity, or lack thereof, to Napa Valley's main artery, which runs through Yountville, Oakville, Rutherford, St. Helena and Calistoga). "The town of Napa isjust 10 minutes away, but people here still have horses and cattle alongthe road. It's different here."
And it's not just theaesthetic that's different. With the San Pablo Bay exerting its influence,Coombsville is the third-coolest AVA in Napa, behind Carneros and Atlas Peak.With the cooler temps, there are higher disease pressures than up-valley. Butthat isn't what caught Beloz off guard. "I came in with aredevelopment plan, figuring as the vineyard hit 20 or 25 years of age we'dneed to start replanting," she says. "But then I found out we didn't need it."
Courtesy of Faust
Jen Beloz and David Jelinek, hard at work
"Varietal change and virusissues have been the main drivers of that cyclical replanting in Napa," saysBuckland. "But Napa is now majority Cabernet, as is this site. And we'vebeen able to manage virus issues here by pulling out a single vine as soon aswe see any signs of it, or by using varying pruning methods. Going forward,vineyards like this one should be the 40-, 50-, 60-year-old vineyards of Napa'sfuture."
Initially all the fruitfrom the Coombsville site went into Faust's Napa blend, which debuted in 2002. Thevineyard is more undulating than the neighboring Hobbs vineyard, along with abit more variability in soil types, resulting in the need for moremicro-pickings due to varying ripening times. But as the team at Faust got moreand more familiar with the site, they began to pull a portion of the Coombsvillefruit out for a separate wine, starting in the 2007 vintage with The Pactbottling (a reference to the Faustian bargains made famous by Marlowe and Goethe).
"What we've learned is thenooks and crannies, the smaller sub-parcels within the parcels that we pick atdifferent times," says Beloz.
Since separating the fruit,Jelinek has been fashioning a wine that is distinct both from Faust'sblend as well as other up-valley Cabernets.
"It's easy to make a dark,dense wine with savory notes from here, but without rustic tannins," he says."It's a good transition between mountain fruit and valley floor."
The 2016 Faust CabernetSauvignon Napa Valley blends Coombsville fruit with other sources from Napa,resulting in a fresh and sleek wine rippling with red and black currant fruit,ending with polish on the tobacco-tinged finish. In contrast, the 2016 FaustCabernet Sauvignon Coombsville The Pact has more notable sage, menthol andviolet notes to go with its fruit, ending with a strong graphite edge on thefinish. Both are delicious, fruit-driven wines, with The Pact bottling showinga bit more range with its cooler herb and earth notes. While the Napa blend isof equal quality, The Pact shows the distinct DNA of a specific site.
"And that's exactly whatwe want to do with the selection from Coombsville," says Beloz.
Follow James Molesworth on Instagram at @jmolesworth1, and on Twitter at @jmolesworth1.
source https://www.winespectator.com/blogs/show/id/Huneeus-Family-Faust-California-Coombsville-Cabernet
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Text
A Coombsville Cabernet Gamble Pays Off (Wine Spectator)
Senior editor James Molesworth is Wine Spectator's lead taster for California Cabernet Sauvignon. He recently returned to Napa Valley for more visits with top wineries. And don't miss our Q&A with James on his Napa Cab eureka moments, his scoring philosophy, and what he's up to when he's not tasting wine.
Following my visit with Paul Hobbs, a Napa Valley veteran but a relative newcomer to the Coombsville AVA, I stopped in at one of Coombsville's pioneers.
Located adjacent toHobbs' vineyards, Faust's 130-acre property was planted by the Huneeus familyin 1998, making it one ofthe earliest vineyard developments in the area, following Caldwell and Farella. Thereare 112 acres planted, primarily to Cabernet Sauvignon, with a bit of Merlot,Syrah, Petit Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc. Planted under the guidance of ValeriaHuneeus, a proponent of biodynamic farming, the site is farmed organicallytoday.
General manager JenniferBeloz, 43, has been working with the Huneeus family since 2011, and moved to theFaust project in 2015. David Jelinek, 48, handles winemaking. Following stintsat Epoch, Harlan (read about my visit there in August)and Groth, he joined the Huneeus team in 2010 and Faust in2015. Viticulturist Garrett Buckland, 38, started at Faust in 2017 afterearning his wings working with Steve Matthiasson.
"It's not Highway 29,"says Beloz as she describes her affinity for the Coombsville area (and its proximity, or lack thereof, to Napa Valley's main artery, which runs through Yountville, Oakville, Rutherford, St. Helena and Calistoga). "The town of Napa isjust 10 minutes away, but people here still have horses and cattle alongthe road. It's different here."
And it's not just theaesthetic that's different. With the San Pablo Bay exerting its influence,Coombsville is the third-coolest AVA in Napa, behind Carneros and Atlas Peak.With the cooler temps, there are higher disease pressures than up-valley. Butthat isn't what caught Beloz off guard. "I came in with aredevelopment plan, figuring as the vineyard hit 20 or 25 years of age we'dneed to start replanting," she says. "But then I found out we didn't need it."
Courtesy of Faust
Jen Beloz and David Jelinek, hard at work
"Varietal change and virusissues have been the main drivers of that cyclical replanting in Napa," saysBuckland. "But Napa is now majority Cabernet, as is this site. And we'vebeen able to manage virus issues here by pulling out a single vine as soon aswe see any signs of it, or by using varying pruning methods. Going forward,vineyards like this one should be the 40-, 50-, 60-year-old vineyards of Napa'sfuture."
Initially all the fruitfrom the Coombsville site went into Faust's Napa blend, which debuted in 2002. Thevineyard is more undulating than the neighboring Hobbs vineyard, along with abit more variability in soil types, resulting in the need for moremicro-pickings due to varying ripening times. But as the team at Faust got moreand more familiar with the site, they began to pull a portion of the Coombsvillefruit out for a separate wine, starting in the 2007 vintage with The Pactbottling (a reference to the Faustian bargains made famous by Marlowe and Goethe).
"What we've learned is thenooks and crannies, the smaller sub-parcels within the parcels that we pick atdifferent times," says Beloz.
Since separating the fruit,Jelinek has been fashioning a wine that is distinct both from Faust'sblend as well as other up-valley Cabernets.
"It's easy to make a dark,dense wine with savory notes from here, but without rustic tannins," he says."It's a good transition between mountain fruit and valley floor."
The 2016 Faust CabernetSauvignon Napa Valley blends Coombsville fruit with other sources from Napa,resulting in a fresh and sleek wine rippling with red and black currant fruit,ending with polish on the tobacco-tinged finish. In contrast, the 2016 FaustCabernet Sauvignon Coombsville The Pact has more notable sage, menthol andviolet notes to go with its fruit, ending with a strong graphite edge on thefinish. Both are delicious, fruit-driven wines, with The Pact bottling showinga bit more range with its cooler herb and earth notes. While the Napa blend isof equal quality, The Pact shows the distinct DNA of a specific site.
"And that's exactly whatwe want to do with the selection from Coombsville," says Beloz.
Follow James Molesworth on Instagram at @jmolesworth1, and on Twitter at @jmolesworth1.
source https://www.winespectator.com/blogs/show/id/Huneeus-Family-Faust-California-Coombsville-Cabernet
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