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multi component 5 gallon locking cap mold

China 2k mold maker, offer two shot 5 gallon container cover, 2 color gallon water PET bottle cap, dual injection water cooler jug lid, 2 component 5 gallon locking cap

[sageinthegarden]

A new snapshot from http://sagesacre/2020/03/11/how-to-make-awesome-hot-sauce/

How to Make Awesome Hot Sauce

Making truly delicious hot pepper sauce is easy thanks to the magic of fermentation

TL/DR: Click here to skip to recipe

I love a good hot sauce.

Not that crazy “it’s so hot it has to be stored in a liquid nitrogen cylinder” stuff, but the spicy, complex kind that delivers a wave of interesting flavors as well as heat. For me, fermented hot sauces are the best at delivering that combination.

Fermented hot sauce, like yogurt, sourdough bread, Kosher pickles and other fermented foods, gets its unique flavor from a naturally occuring microorganism called lactobacillus. These little critters consume sugar and convert it to lactic acid which both helps preserve the food and creates unique flavors. Based on the type of pepper, the variety of lactobacillus in your surrounds, and the temperature and length of fermentation, you can make sauces that range anywhere in flavor from hot pineapple and vanilla to tangy curry and lemon grass.

Hidden Lake Hot, my pepper of choice.

Every year I make a batch of fermented hot sauce that takes nearly six months, but you can actually produce a pretty dang good batch in just a week. Even over a period that short, the fermentation process will convert the sugars in the peppers into new flavors and aromas you just don’t get with fresh sauces.

If you haven’t ever tried making your own, you definitely should. Here’s my basic and advanced recipes: 

Hot Sauce Recipes

QUICK NOTE ABOUT LACTO-FERMENTATION:

These are simple lacto-fermentation recipes using brine. Basically we want a brine salty enough to prevent bad bacteria from taking up residence, but not so salty it prevents the lactobacillus from fermenting the sugars in the peppers.

The proper proportion of salt to water is ½ tablespoon salt for every 1 cup water.

The water should be filtered, not tap, and salt should be iodine free to prevent off flavors or colors. Just remember to keep to those proportions you can scale to larger batches with no problem.

Basic Fermented Hot Sauce Easy, 15 minutes prep, 7 days ferment, makes about 1-½ pints of hot sauce

Ingredients

1 pint ripe hot peppers chopped or sliced (I like the cayenne varieties)

1 pint filtered room temperature water

1 tablespoon (non-iodized) salt

Instructions

Make the brine by mix the water and salt until the salt is dissolved

Place the hot peppers in an empty quart-sized jar

Add the brine to the jar and stir to remove air pockets

Cover the jar loosely and put in a cool place out of sunlight

Stir every so often to prevent white mold from forming on the surface (if it does appear, just scrape it off with a spoon)

In a few days the mixture should become cloudy and the pepper mixture should have a slightly sour aroma (this is the lacto doing its work).

On the 7th day of fermenting, pour your pepper mixture into a blender (or use a stick blender) and puree the mixture until smooth.

Transfer the sauce to clean bottles and cap.

The hot sauce is ready for use.

Because we haven’t stopped the fermentation by heating the sauce or adding a stabilizer like vinegar, this hot sauce will continue to ferment (though more slowly) in the bottle, gradually mellowing the sharp notes and changing the heat profile.

As long as you don’t open the bottle it should keep just fine at room temperature for several months. Once you do open the bottle, just keep it refrigerated.

Long Ferment Hot Sauce Easy, 3-6 months ferment, makes about 1 gallon of hot sauce

I make one batch of this hot sauce every year. I start it in mid-September and finish in mid-March which provides an extended period of fresh pepper additions followed by a long, slow fermentation period over the winter.

Because of the long fermentation, the heat profile on this moves it from an upfront peppery hit, to a lower, slower build with lots of spice, grass and vanilla flavors followed by a smooth, hot finish that really sets the sauce apart from others.

I use my favorite hot pepper (an accidental cayenne/thai cross from 20 years ago), picked fresh from the garden, but you can use whatever variety or varieties of hot peppers you like most.

Ingredients

Ripe hot peppers (you’re going to add about 4-6 ounces each week)

2 whole garlic cloves (peeled)

Filtered water

Non-iodized salt

2 seasoned hardwood staves (oak, hickory, maple, etc.), bark removed

1 cup white vinegar

Instructions

  Week 1: Place a handful (4-8 ounces) of whole peppers in a large, non-reactive container (I use a 1 gallon pickle jar). Add enough brine mixture (water and salt at the 1 cup to ½-tablespoon ratio) to cover your peppers. Cover the container loosely and place in a cool dark place.

Week 2: Scrape off any white mold that has formed on the surface and stir the mixture. Add a handful of fresh whole peppers and enough new brine to fully submerge the peppers. If the peppers float, use pickling weights (or a zipper baggy filled with water) to keep them submerged. Again, cover loosely and return the container to a cool dark place.

Week 3: Repeat the steps in week 2, but add two whole cloves of garlic as well.

Week 4: Repeat the steps in week 2. If it’s fermenting well, the mixture should be cloudy and yellowish.

Four weeks of fresh pepper additions has fermentation going well

Week 5-11: Repeat steps in week 2 for as long as you have fresh peppers to add. Cold weather usually kills mine off in late Autumn, so I can add fresh peppers until mid-December. If your season is shorter, just skip to the next step (week 12).

Week 12: Scrape any mold from the surface of the pepper mixture and stir thoroughly. Add your two hardwood staves to the mixture, making sure they’re fully submerged. Return to the cool, dark place.

Week 13-24: Now we’re just going to let the mixture continue to ferment and age. Each week take the mixture out, scrape off any mold and stir before returning to the cool, dark place.

Week 24: Let’s bottle!

Pour your pepper mixture into a large bowl or pot.

Fermented Peppers in the pot (click to watch)

Remove the hardwood staves from your pepper mixture and use blender to puree it into a semi-smooth sauce.

Using a stick blender to puree the peppers

Place a colander on a large, non-aluminum, pot and pour the pepper slurry through the colander to filter out the seeds, stems, and pepper pulp.

Add 1 cup of white vinegar to the pot of sauce and slowly heat and stir it until it begins to boil. Reduce the heat and allow the sauce to simmer for 10 minutes (we’re stabilizing the sauce so it stop fermenting).

Bringing the hot sauce to a boil

Pour your hot sauce into clean, hot jars and seal. (I like to use 5 ounce bottles you can get on Amazon pretty cheap.)

Allow the bottles of hot sauce to cool, then place them in a cool dark place to rest for a couple more days before enjoying.

Batch 19 of Sage’s Fermented Hot Sauce

Because this hot sauce has been stabilized, it will keep for months (possibly years) at room temperature even after the bottle has been opened—no need to refrigerate to prevent fermentation from starting again.

Enjoy!

From the beginning

Check out these posts for the progress on the hot pepper sauce beginning with its start back in September 2019.

September 2019

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 1

Projects

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 2

Projects

October 2019

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 3

Projects

November 2019

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 4

Projects

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 5

Projects

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 6

Projects

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 7

Projects

December 2019

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 8

Photos, Projects

Hot Pepper Sauce Batch 19 – Entry 9

Projects

End of the Line for Hot Peppers 2019

Photos

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 10

Projects

January 2020

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 11

Projects

[p-o-u-t-blog]

7 Steps to Prepare a Room for Painting

Interior painting is a terrific do-it-yourself task that can freshen up a room in no time, but there are risks to going it alone. Amateur paint jobs can be easy to spot because, unlike expert jobs, they leave tell-tale signs of paint spatter, mottled color or missed out on spots behind. Here are seven steps you ought to follow before you dip your roller to assist you to paint like a pro.

1. Remove Furniture

Professionals don't stumble over coffee tables and stretch to paint behind the sofa, and neither needs to you. Eliminate furnishings from the space before you paint to make the task easier and prevent ruining wood and upholstery with spilled or spattered paint. To make sure that your home furnishings remain insufficient condition to be brought back into your freshly painted room at the end of the project, avoid just pushing whatever into the hallway where it could be harmed or trigger accidents. Consider leasing a temporary storage container or a storage unit while you work. If there's a product that simply won't fit through the doorway or is too heavy to move, pull it to the center of the room, away from the walls to be painted, and cover it with plastic to protect it.

2. Secure Flooring

Presuming you wish to keep your carpet or hardwood floor in place after you paint the room, safeguard it before you get to work. A few sheets of newsprint under your roller tray simply aren't sufficient. Use professional-style ground cloth throughout the space instead. Plastic sheeting is less expensive, however, it's easily pierced and can move under your feet while you work, exposing areas of floor covering. A heavy canvas drop cloth or a professional grade butyl-backed cloth secure versus spills and also help keep paint from being tracked through the rest of your home if it accidentally gets on the soles of your shoes while you work. (Lots of do-it-yourselfers prefer to paint barefoot so they know when they step in the paint.) Butyl-backed cloths have the reward of keeping spilled paint from soaking through to the flooring listed below.

3. Get Rid Of Wall Hangings

Perhaps you believe you'll save time by leaving your paintings on the walls and merely painting around them. That's great, unless a painting moves a little bit one day in front of the business, exposing your cut corner. Cutting in around paintings and clocks is more time consuming than removing them, and it runs the risk of destructive your design also. Plus, you might wish to alter your wall art before you paint the room again. So, it's constantly much better to take everything off the wall and paint the whole surface. Once again, secure your things so you have something to revive into your completed room. Usage bubble wrap and storage bins to ensure fragile pieces do not break and make sure to save them well out of the method. If there is an opportunity that you might wish to reconfigure your pictures and clocks when you re-hang them, remove nails and picture hangers and complete the holes with spackle before you paint. Be sure to let the spackle dry before you cover it.

Also, check out the Best Painters in Warner Robins

4. Clean the Walls to Be Painted

Why should you clean up something you're just going to paint anyway? Because tidy, consistent surfaces will assure you of a smooth, professional-looking outcome. Dark spots can reveal through a coat of paint, and oil or other compounds on the wall can change the consistency of the paint being applied. Clean all walls to be painted with a solution of water and moderate detergent. For tough spots or smudges, like kitchen area grease or soot discolorations, specialists depend on trisodium phosphate. Combined with bleach, trisodium phosphate can also remove mildew and mildew spots before you paint. No matter what kind of cleaning option you use, be sure to rinse the walls thoroughly when you're ended up and leave them plenty of time to dry before you get to work. Home painting experts might even use fans to speed the drying process.

5. Get Rid Of Outlet Covers and Change Plates

The pros don't attempt to cut in around small little outlet covers, and neither must you. This will undoubtedly result in visible brush strokes around the outlet or smudged paint on the outlet cover. Remove the outlet covers and change plates in the space to be painted, and make sure not to paint the real sockets or changes themselves. Again, that looks less than professional. Childproof plastic outlet covers can help secure electrical outlet from paint while you work. Use care in a home with young children after protective coverings have been eliminated, and make certain to change them promptly as quickly as the paint around them is dry. If you're going to paint the ceiling of the space, don't forget to remove light fixtures and ceiling medallions whenever possible. Shutting off the electricity to the room at the circuit breaker initially is always a great safety measure to take.

6. Tape

If only you could take all the moldings and trim out of the room as well before your paint. Alas, this is not the case. To avoid the amateur mistake of smearing paint along your baseboards and windowsills, tape off these locations before you begin. Do not rely on family tape to get the job done; invest in professional painter's tape, offered at the majority of hardware shops and paint providers. Taping is basic but lengthy. Doing it right, though, produces professional-looking outcomes. While not safeguarding trim is a typical error, so is over-taping. Be sure that none of your tapes is on the wall to be painted, or your old wall color will be playing peek-a-boo around the border of your space. You can also use painter's tape to tape out patterns or color obstructs on your wall. If you're brave enough to try that, tape out the whole style and ensure it's best before you even open a can of paint.

7. Set Up a Staging Location

Believe you'll conserve time by simply bring a gallon of paint with you from wall to wall? Wrong. Whatever time you save in set-up will probably be doubled in clean-up. Set up a staging area in the center of the room or just outside it for pouring paint, keeping open paint cans, and cleaning brushes and rollers. This will minimize spills and mishaps, or a minimum of keeping them consisted of one designated area. Plus, you and any assistants you have enlisted will constantly understand where the painting supplies are and will not lose time searching for misplaced paint keys or roller trays. Boards put between two sawhorses make a great staging area. Does an old folding table cover with a drop cloth?

By putting in the time to prep a room, anybody can attain professional-looking paint results. Invest the time up-front to leave to a great start, and your task will go efficiently and look lovely. When you have mastered interior painting, you can freshen any space at will and change your house one space at a time.

[vinnyisweird-blog]

6 Tips to Save on the Expense to Paint a House

Painting 2,500-square-foot, two-story house expenses about $4,000 for the outside and $5,500 for the interior. Cut the price by doing some work yourself, limiting the scope and using color sensibly.

A fresh coat of paint makes everything it touches appear brand brand-new. Such new starts cost real loan. Professional painters charge around $4,000 for labor and materials to paint the outside of a 2,500-square-foot, two-story house and approximately $5,500 for the interior. Painters' rates may range from $20 to $60 an hour, but around $40 is typical in urban areas.

With thought and planning, you can keep the expense of painting the exterior or interior of your house to a minimum, whether you are using a professional painter or doing the work yourself.

Breaking down the cost to paint a home

House-painting expenses differ depending "on what material you're covering, what product you're using and what part of the country you live in," according to Steve Skodak, executive director of the PDCA.

Many costs fall into two primary classifications:

Labor expenses

The most significant cost is labor. Most of the painter's time is invested preparing the surface so the paint will adhere well and the task will last. Your most significant prospective savings come from controlling or minimizing how much time an expert painter needs to invest in the cleansing, patching, sanding, caulking, and painting.

" I'm costly; the paint is low-cost," explains Brian Bancroft, owner of Bancroft Painting, a 100-year-old household company in the Ann Arbor, Michigan, area.

The expense of paint and materials

The paint will be your next-biggest expense, at anywhere from $20 to $70 or more per gallon, depending on the sheen, the grade you've selected and any unique features. Some paints, for example, are mold resistant. Others suppress smells or need fewer coats. Some have a lifetime warranty. Paints with service warranties, nevertheless, might not be worth a greater cost. In Consumer Reports evaluates approximating nine years of wear, just a few exterior paints and stains with lifetime warranties held up well. "you'll grow worn out of the color long before a good-quality paint wears out," Bancroft says.

Your painter is most likely to recommend paints she or he knows and trusts. Bancroft prefers middle-grade acrylic paint for most usages. It grips the surface area, uses well and is fairly priced, he states. "If you're painting your garage or beautifying the basement, you can step down [a grade]," he includes.

Mike Freeman, basic supervisor of Mike's Quality Painting in Albuquerque, New Mexico, utilizes premium paints. "We regularly will spend $50 a gallon on outside paint because I understand that the paint can last somebody 10, 12, 15 years, as long as we prepare the surface areas properly," he says.

Other materials-- including tarpaulins, tape, brushes, rollers, and other devices and supplies-- will be included in a bid however aren't generally broken out separately by cost.

Tips for minimizing house-painting expenses

With labor your biggest expense, you can save the most by containing how many hours a painter spends on the task. And there are other ways to pare back expenses, too. Follow these professional ideas for maximizing your cost savings:

1. Get competing bids

Before working with a painter, get numerous price quotes, Freeman says. Discover advised painters from friends, or search at Painting and Decorating Contractors of America for member painters near me who are licensed, where needed, and guaranteed.

Ask a painter to specify the number of hours will be spent on preparation and painting, names of products to be used, how many coats will be applied and the cost for any extra coats.

2. Utilize an agreement

Now, ensure you get your contract in writing. Freeman consists of time estimates for each aspect of the task. Bancroft prefers a simpler contract, like "This is what we are going to do: We are going to caulk and putty the windows. We're going to put two coats of paint utilizing Pittsburgh Manor Hall eggshell, color to be figured out."

3. Do all or a few of the work yourself

You can conserve a bundle by doing the labor yourself. The most significant Do It Yourself cost is paint. Other expenses include purchasing or leasing supplies and devices, like caulk, guide, brushes, rollers, tarps and ladders or scaffolding. Freeman advises applying paint with brushes, not a sprayer. "If you overspray all the window frames and overspray your shingles and your sidewalks and the brick on the front of your house, you do damage that is not quickly repaired," he says.

If you're hiring a painter, ask if you can lower the expense of labor by doing some jobs yourself. For example:

Trimming shrubs

Moving furniture and clearing a border for painters to work

Removing and reinstalling the outlet covers, change plates and doorknobs

Preparation work like patching, sanding, and scraping, if you have the abilities

4. Don't wait too long to repaint

Repaint-- outsides particularly-- before visible signs of wear appear, Bancroft says. Do not wait till you see peeling or flaking paint. "If I have to invest 40 hours preparing the surface before we can paint, that time is going to lead to a lot of additional costs. If I can spend 10 hours preparing the surface areas to be painted, you're going to save cash," Freeman says.

5. Cut the scope of the job

Before signing the contract, browse it for ways to trim aspects of the task that aren't important to you. For instance, you may pass up repainting ceilings or closet interiors, to save money on paint and labor.

6. Believe strategically about color

By recoating your existing colors rather of altering colors, you might get away with one coat of paint rather than two, if the surface remains in good condition.

Prevent extremely deep colors, or utilize them on trim or accents, Bancroft states. Bright reds and yellows might need 4 or five coats to cover well, so if you need to utilize them, select premium paints to finish the job with fewer coats.

Darker colors look terrific on exteriors however they fade sooner than lighter colors, so you'll need to repaint regularly. "You can be more bold and bold on the inside than you should be on the outdoors," Bancroft says. "If you wish to have a fire-engine-red door, you can paint that every 2 years and it can be fresh and vibrant."

[andrik-aky-blog]

How to Paint Walls & Ceilings

With excellent preparation and a few techniques of the trade, painting interior ceilings and walls is a basic process that can yield professional outcomes.

Any surface that needs a base coat ought to be primed. Whether your surface areas will require a base coat will depend upon the surface area and the sort of paint you have picked. When you buy your paint, speak with your paint dealership about whether a primer is needed (point out the present wall color) and, if it is, the best primer to utilize. Priming does not need to be as exact as painting, however, the primer must cover the surface areas. Use it to the ceiling initially and after that the walls.

Paint in the same order as you applied the primer-- ceiling initially and after that walls. Brush or roll from leading to bottom. If the primer you chose was of good quality, you may require just one coat of paint.

If you are painting instead of staining or finishing trim, do so after you have painted the ceiling and walls. Go from leading to bottom, such as ceiling molding to chair rails to baseboards. You can paint the doors and window trim either before or after you paint the baseboards, though previously is better if you are painting the whole room as a single project.

How to Cut-In With a Paintbrush

A roller is simplest for using paint to the broad surface areas of walls and ceilings, a roller will not use to paint all of the ways into corners or to the edges of the trim. You'll need to "cut-in" the corners and areas around trim with a paintbrush.

Cut in the corners before you roll paint on the main surface areas. This implies painting both sides of each corner starting about two brush lengths away and painting into the corner. Utilize a 2- or 3-inch brush for paints. You can cut-in around the trim either before or after rolling.

Because the drying time of flat and eggshell latex paint is so brief, you can cut-in an entire room before filling out the walls. Semigloss or gloss latex and alkyd paints take much longer to dry however will leave a separation line if the walls are not filled out while the paint is still wet. For this factor, if you are utilizing any of these paints, you should cut-in one corner and fill in the wall before cutting in the next corner.

If the very same paint is being used for the wall and ceiling, you can cut-in the ceiling-to-wall connection simply as you would the corners of a room. If the ceiling is being painted a various color, paint it very first and after that the walls.

Whether painting a ceiling or a wall, be sure to cut-in around light fixtures, outlets, windows, doors, and any other fixed products before filling out the rest of the surface with a brush or roller.

How to Utilize a Paintbrush

To paint "perfectionists," neither a paint sprayer nor a paint roller can quite attain the quality surface that a great paintbrush can. If you fall into this classification and are planning to paint a large surface, there are a couple of techniques that can help you achieve the very best results.

Before you even dip a brush into a paint tray or container, you need to appropriately prepare it, which indicates getting rid of any bristles that have come loose. To do this, roll the brush backward and forward in your hands and after that shake it well.

When you are very first utilizing a new brush, start by slowly stirring it in the paint; this will somewhat spread the bristles, permitting them to hold the paint much better. Dip the brush straight up and down 2 or 3 times up until the bristles are filled about a 3rd of their length.

To make sure your brush does not drip, slap it against the side of the bucket. Do not run the brush versus the rim of the pail as this will get rid of excess paint and may likewise trigger the bristles to stick together.

After cutting-in, the corners, work in sections about 3 feet square. Hold the brush so that your thumb rests on one side of the ferrule (the metal strip that connects the bristles to the deal with) and your 4 fingers are spread out equally on the other side. Unlike holding the brush by the handle, this allows you to manage the angle of the brush without having to alter the position of your hand.

Apply the paint efficiently over the very first section, holding the brush at a 45-degree angle. When you get to the end of a stroke, let up on the pressure and after that reverse direction. Paint back into the damp edge to avoid lap marks. When you have finished a section, paint the section into the previous one to mix them.

If you are utilizing paint that has a glossy finish, complete your strokes away from the room's primary source of light as the small marks a brush leaves will be obvious if they are towards the light. By the same principle, paint in the instructions of a wood's grain, not against it. You can likewise decrease brush marks by really lightly running the brush, unloaded, over each area before it dries.

How to Use a Roller

If you have chosen to apply paint with a roller, do so after cutting-in the corners. When you fill in with the roller, the goal is to blend the brushed areas with the rolled areas so the whole paint task looks smooth.

If you're using a roller, to begin with, it is most likely the project is big enough to require several gallons of paint. You can utilize either a paint tray or a 5-gallon bucket into which you have placed a grid made from wire mesh, which is the much better choice for big tasks. By using a container, you are also able to combine points from two or more cans to eliminate any minor variations in color.

If you are utilizing a brand-new slept roller, you should first clear it of lint. To do this, simply roll it over the sticky side of a piece of masking tape. A foam roller is ready to utilize with no preparation.

Whether you are using a tray or a container, fill the roller with paint simply except it dripping. With a tray, paint should just fill the reservoir. After dipping the roller into the paint, run it up and down the ribbed portion of the tray to remove excess paint and attain even circulation.

If you are using a container, fill it with 1-2 gallons of paint and, after dipping the roller into the paint, run the roller up and down the wire mesh to eliminate excess paint and disperse the paint evenly.

How to Paint a Ceiling With a Roller

There are a few various options for painting a ceiling, however, without a doubt, the best one is utilizing a roller on an extension pole. Painting with a brush or roller while basing on a ladder is not only neck-straining work but also difficult because it needs moving the ladder every few feet as you end up an area. Using a roller on an extension pole gives you a better angle at which to work and avoids the paint from dripping on you.

To begin, begin at a corner and roll gradually along with the ceiling's much shorter measurement. Make an M or W shape across a 3-foot area and then reverse direction, filling in the unpainted locations as you go. Continue painting the ceiling in 3-foot sections, making sure to distribute the paint as evenly as possible and refilling the roller as needed.

When you have finished rolling the whole ceiling, run the roller from corner to corner around the perimeter of the ceiling. Do not load the roller with paint, and roll each edge in one constant stroke. How to Paint a Wall With a Roller

The easiest way to paint a wall is to use a roller.

Start by packing the roller until the paint is uniformly dispersed but not leaking. Begin at one corner and make an M or W shape in a 3-foot area without raising the roller from the surface area. When you get to the end of the "letter," lift the roller and reverse direction, filling out the unpainted locations. Take care not to spin the roller when you raise it from the surface area.

Continue painting the wall above and listed below the section you have completed using the very same M or W pattern. When you have completed painting the whole wall, run your roller, unloaded, along the 4 edges of the wall using one constant stroke for each edge. This will blend the cut-in brush strokes and the roller marks.

[nationalmultilist1]

2008 Holiday Rambler XL 35SBD Sedona AZ sell my rv today

LOOK AT THIS EXCELLENT 36 FOOT 2008 Holiday Rambler Neptune XL 35SBD COACH WITH 46252 MILES!!!

NON-SMOKING & NO PETS! LOOK AT THIS EXCELLENT 36 FOOT 2008 Holiday Rambler Neptune XL 35SBD COACH WITH 46252 MILES!!!

NON-SMOKING & NO PETS!

OWNERS NOTES

2008 Holiday Rambler Neptune XL 35SBD for sale by owner

Purchased new in 2009

Above excellent condition

340 HP Cummins Diesel

New Tires 2017

New Batteries 2018

New Shocks

2 Slides

Auto Level System

Central Vac System

Auto Ice Maker

Odometer 46,252.

Many more extra’s.

Retiring after 48 years of RVing

Also have Tow Car for sale.

This would also make a great rental property as an AIRBnB.

Weights (Lbs.) 35SBD

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating 29,000

Gross Combined Weight Rating 33,000

Gross Axle Weight Rating (Front) 11,000

Gross Axle Weight Rating (Rear) 18,000

Measurements

Wheelbase 204”

Overall Length 35’ 5”

Overall Height (Including A/C) 12’ 8”

Interior Height 84”

Interior Width 94.5”

Exterior Width 100.5”

Tank Capacity (Gal.)

Water Heater 10

Gray Tank 55

Black Tank 39

Fresh Tank 95

Fuel Tank 75

LP Tank 39

BODY CONSTRUCTION:

Alumaframe® Superstructure

Steel Cage Cockpit Construction

Smooth Gel Coat Fiberglass Exterior Walls

Front and Rear Fiberglass Caps

One-Piece Generator Access Door

Rear Engine Doors and Center Grille

Fiberglass Engine Cover

Panaview™ 1-Piece Front Windshield

17.5˝ Chrome Head Exterior Mirror

Metal Fuel Door with Lock

Side-Hinged Baggage Doors

One-Piece Polyethylene Pass-Through Storage Compartments

Full-Body Paint with Painted Graphics

3M Film Front Mask

Carpeted Electric Flush-Floor Stepwell Cover

Exterior Double Entry Steps

Rear Ladder

Full-Length Mud Flap

Undercoating

OPTIONS

Storage Bay Slide-Out Tray, Pass-Through

Standard Run Savings Package:

Camera Rear Vision System with Audio and Adjustable Center Camera

Select Comfort Bed

2,000 Watt Inverter with Two Additional Batteries

CHASSIS/ENGINE/SUSPENSION:

Roadmaster Raised Rail Chassis RR4R

Cummins® ISB 340 HP Engine

Allison® 2500 MH 6-Speed World Transmission

Pushbutton Shift Pad on 2500 MH Transmission

Engine Displacement: 5.9L/359 Cu. In.

Torque: 610 lbs./ft. Max. Net at 1,600 RPM

Block Heater

Chrome Exhaust Tip (Engine)

75-Gallon Fuel Tank

Dual Fuel Fill

160 Amp Alternator

Rear Axle Ratio: 4.78:1

Radial Tires: 255/70R/22.5

Stainless Steel Wheel Simulators

Four Gas Shock Absorbers

Four Air Bags

Anti-Lock Braking System with Full Air Brake

Automatic Traction Control

Prewire for Supplemental Braking System

Air Cleaner Restriction Indicator

Fuel/Water Separator

Remote Transmission Fill

Fully Automatic Hydraulic Leveling System

7,000 Lb. Hitch Receiver with Dual Connector (4-Pin or 7-Pin)

COCKPIT

Fiberglass Automotive Dash with Oxford Burl Instrumentation Panel

CD Player/Radio with Sirius-Ready Compatibility

Weather Band and Six Speakers

Power Sunvisors

Pilot and Co-Pilot Side Window Pull- Down Sunshades

Rear Vision System with Audio and Adjustable Camera

Intermittent Windshield Wipers

Tilt/Telescopic Steering Wheel

6-Quart Tank for Windshield Fluid

Air Horns

Molded Co-Pilot Side Console with Two- Tier Cup Holder

Molded Pilot Side Console with Two-Tier Cup Holder

Leatherette Pilot and Co-Pilot Cockpit Recliner Seats

Six-Way Power Pilot Seat

Carpeted Driver and Passenger Floor Mats

OPTIONS

Auxiliary Blower for Header Area of Front Windshield

Six-Way Power Co-Pilot Seat

3-Camera Rear Vision System with Audio and Adjustable Center Camera

Sirius Radio Satellite System (Requires Subscription)

GPS Navigation System

Interior Solar Privacy Sunscreens

APPLIANCES AND ACCESSORIES

Large Double-Door Refrigerator with Ice Maker 8 Cu. Ft.

Stainless Steel High-Output 3-Sealed-Burner Cooktop

Removable Solid Surface Range Covers

Spacesaver Convection Microwave

26˝ LCD Stereo Color TV with Remote Control in Cockpit Overhead

20˝ LCD TV in Bedroom

Washer/Dryer Prep

Curbside:

Exterior Hook-Ups for DSS Dish

Cable

110V Outlet

Hatch Door to Exterior

Digital Satellite System Prep

OPTIONS

Large Four-Door Refrigerator with Ice Maker

Stainless Steel High-Output Sealed Burner

Combination Washer/Dryer

Central Vacuum System

32˝ Flatscreen LCD TV in Front Cockpit

Home Theater Surround Sound System with Sub-Woofer

Bedroom DVD Player

Semi-Automatic Digital Satellite Dish

Exterior Entertainment Center

CD Player Radio with Two Speakers

INTERIOR

Raised Panel Cabinet Doors

Hardwood Raised Panel Doors on Refrigerator

Heavy-Duty Ball-Bearing Drawer Guides

Wood Cabinet Drawer Boxes

Integrated Cup Holder in Slide-Out next to Sofa

Solid Surface Kitchen Countertop and Backsplash with Under-Mounted

Stainless Steel Sink with Two Sink Covers

Kitchen Countertop Extension with Two Drawers Below

Solid Surface Bath Lavatory Countertop with Integrated Bowl and Solid Surface Backsplash

Dinette Countertops, Laminate Countertop with Solid Surface Countertop Edge Treatment

Raised Solid Surface Backsplash behind Cooktop

Laminate Tile Flooring Kitchen, Bath and Entryway

Carpeting with Pad in Living Area and Bedroom

Soft Touch Padded Vinyl Ceiling

Wood Slide-Out Fascia with Satin Brushed Bronze Inserts into Fascia Legs

Wood Grain Crown Molding in Bedroom and Living Area on All Open Walls

Oil Rubbed Bronze Cabinetry Hardware and Bath Accessories

Hardwood Framed Pocket Doors with Flat Panel Insert

Blackout Day/Night Pleated Shades in Living Area and in Bedroom

Soil Repellant on Fabric

FURNITURE

Queen Bed with Overhead Cabinet and Nightstands

Arched Back Wood Booth Dinette with Side-Sliding Dinette Tabletop

With Storage in Seat Base

Forward-Facing Seatbelts in Booth

Dinette inside Living Area Slide-Out

Roadside: Fabric Easy Bed Sofa • Curbside: Fabric Easy Bed Sofa

OPTIONS

Bedroom: Select Comfort

Roadside: Fabric Hide-A-Bed Sofa with Air Mattress

Curbside: One Leatherette Euro-Recliner

Chair with Ottoman and Wall-Mounted

Table with Pullout Countertop

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS AND LIGHTS

50 Amp 120V Distribution Panel and Power Cord

Energy Management System

60 Amp Electronic 12V Power Converter

Onan® 6.0 kW Diesel Generator

Two 6V House Batteries

Two 12V Heavy-Duty Chassis Batteries

Battery Disconnect Switch at Front Door

Exterior Power Entry Step, with Light

Interior Stepwell Entry Step Lights

Water Pump Switch in Service Bay Area and Convenience Center

Lights in Outside Storage Compartments

Underhood Utility Light

Two Recessed Ceiling Map Lights above Cockpit Seats

Hallway Convenience Center

Obscure Lens Halogen Light under Kitchen and Living Room Hutch

Overhead Cabinets

Three Recessed Ceiling Lights above Countertop Work Area Kitchen

Decorative Lighting Oil Rubbed Bronze Living Room Wall Light

Dinette Overhead and Cosmetic Vanity Light

OPTIONS

2,000 Watt Inverter with Two Additional Batteries (4 Total, 6 Volt Batteries)

Storage Compartment Tank Monitor Gauge

Manual Retracting Power Cord Reel Onan® 8.0 kW Quiet Diesel Generator

PLUMBING AND LP SYSTEMS:

Kitchen Stainless Steel Under-Mounted Sink with Single Lever Satin Nickel

Faucet with Pullout Sprayer

Central Water Filtration System

New Bath Lavatory Faucet (Satin Nickel Finish)

Demand Water System and Water Pump

10-Gallon LP Gas/Electric Water Heater with Electronic Ignition (DSI)

Winterization Valving System

Water Heater Bypass Valving

China Toilet with Sprayer

No-Fuss Flush Holding Tank Rinsing System

Insulated Systems Compartment with Easy Access to Hook-Up

Shower inside Wet Bay with Hot/Cold Water Shower Head with Shut-Off

Soap Dispenser inside Utility Bay

Gravity and Pressurized Water Fill

Contained Storage Area for Sewer Hose

One-Piece Fiberglass Shower

Shower Diverter

Hose and Head with Shut-Off

Satin Finish with Satin Slide Bar for Shower Head with Metal

Soap Dispenser

Satin Nickel Shower Door Frame with Obscure Glass

OPTIONS

RV Sani-Con 1 System

Holding Tank Flush System

Bathtub Option IPO Shower

HEATING, VENTS AND AIR CONDITIONING:

Dual 13.5M BTU Air Conditioners with Ducted Air and Digital Wall Thermostat

Electronic Ignition Furnace 35M BTU

Kitchen Powered Attic Fan with Wall Control of Automatic Dome and Fan Power

Bath Powered Attic Fan with Wall Control of Automatic Dome and Fan Power

12V Heater in Wet Bay; Heat Pad on Fresh Tank

Wood Louver Air Return Grill for Furnace

Metal Floor Registers (Satin Nickel)

OPTIONS

Dual 13.5M BTU Air Conditioner with Heat Pumps and Digital Thermostat Control

Ceiling Fan in Bedroom

WINDOWS, DOORS AND AWNINGS:

Radius Flush-Mounted Dual Pane Safety Glass Dark Tinted Slider Windows

Exterior Entry Door Grab Handle

Eclipse Automatic Patio Awning

Front Door Awning

Topper Slide-Out Awnings Living Area and Bedroom

Tinted Skylight in Bathroom with Protecta Glaze

OPTIONS

Sidewall Bedroom Window Awning with Metal Cover and Painted Hardware

Window Awning Living Area Slide-Out

House Windows with Metal Cover and Painted Hardware

Window Awnings

Bedroom Wardrobe Slide-Out House

SAFETY:

Fire Extinguisher

Deadbolt Lock on Entrance Door

120V GFI Protected Circuit Kitchen, Bath and Exterior

LP Gas Detector

Smoke Detector

Carbon Monoxide Detector

Driver and Passenger Three-Point Seatbelts

Third Brake Safety Light

Egress Window

The Neptune features a rear-mounted aluminum radiator with stacked aluminum charged air cooler, for increased cooling capacity.

A 7,000 lb. hitch receiver gives the coach powerful towing capacity.

Dual fuel fills provide the convenience of filling the fuel tank from either side of the coach.

A larger 34˝ spacing between the frame rails offers greater side-to-side stability.

ROADMASTER RAIL RR4R CHASSIS

The 2008 Neptune owes its remarkable performance to the Roadmaster Raised Rail RR4R Series chassis. You’ll marvel at the seamless ride and handling that’s only possible in a chassis that’s designed exclusively for a luxury motorcoach and custombuilt to the exact specifications of each floorplan. We invite you to take a few minutes and discover all the ways Roadmaster offers you the very best in safety, reliability, comfort and convenience.

9-LAYER ROOF

One-piece peaked fiberglass roof

Luaun backing

Thick, tapered bead foam insulation

Aluminum double I-beam superstructure filled with fiberglass insulation

Vapor barrier

Structure foam: thermal insulative barrier

1/2” bead foam insulation

Foam padding for extra insulation

Padded vinyl ceiling

The Roadmaster chassis provides for full pass-through storage spaces, accommodating larger items with ease.

Cushion Air Glide Suspension provides a smoother ride with excellent handling and cornering.

Steel cage cockpit construction offers added safety

The full-air anti-lock braking system (ABS) maintains traction and steering when braking on slick surfaces.

Heavy-duty steel undercarriage and firewall for unsurpassed safety, strength and durability

Master the highways and byways with Neptune’s rugged Cummins® ISB 325 HP engine with 610 lbs./ft. of torque and an Allison® 2500 MH 6-speed World Transmission. The new electronic shift pad offers added convenience.

SLIDE-OUT CONSTRUCTION

When you purchase a Holiday Rambler, you can be sure the slide-out boxes are some of the strongest and most reliable you’ll find anywhere. They feature our exclusive multi-layer construction to give you maximum insulation and to reduce the chance of warping, twisting or shifting.

4-LAYER FLOOR

Structurwood™

Blue foam insulation

1-1/2” aluminum tube

Three-ply poly underbelly

5-LAYER EXTERIOR WALL

Smooth gel coat fiberglass is standard

Interlocking C-Channel filled with 1-1/2” fiberglass insulation bonded in place so it doesn’t sag or leave spaces uninsulated

Vapor barrier

Bead foam adds comfort, saves energy and provides a thermal insulative barrier

Interior paneling**FINANCING ASSISTANCE AVAILABLE W.A.C.**

[fifthnerve6-blog]

Sour Pickles

Published: Jul 12, 2019 · Modified: Jul 12, 2019 · This website earns income from affiliate links, ads, and sponsored content.

Infused with aromatic garlic and fragrant dill, these naturally fermented sour pickles have a striking sour flavor that’ll remind you of the classic, old-fashioned pickles you’ll find at a New York deli. Unlike pickles made with vinegar, these slowly ferment in a saltwater brine that’s spiked with spices, and that gives them an extraordinary complex flavor that’s both sour and salty all at once.

Jump to Recipe | What are they? |Benefits |Tips |Storage| Troubleshooting

What are sour pickles?

Sour pickles are pickles that you ferment in a saltwater brine. The slow process of fermentation gives and their brine, gives them a deeply sour flavor with a salty edge that many people find irresistible. Cooks also typically add garlic, dill, horseradish, and pickling spices to the brine which gives the pickles even deeper flavor.

While both regular pickles and sour pickles are preserved cucumbers, there’s some key differences. Regular pickles are packed in jars with hot vinegar. By contrast, sour pickles are fermented. As a result, sour pickles are rich in probiotics like sauerkraut, kimchi and other fermented foods.

Are sour pickles good for you?

Like all fermented foods, sour pickles are rich in probiotics. Those are beneficial bacteria that help support gut health, immune system function and metabolic health 1Chakraborty, R., & Roy, S. (2018). Exploration of the diversity and associated health benefits of traditional pickles from the Himalayan and adjacent hilly regions of Indian subcontinent. Journal of food science and technology, 55(5), 1599–1613.

They also contain B vitamins, trace minerals and are a very good source of vitamin K which helps support bone and heart health22019. Vitamin K Fact Sheet. National Institutes of Health.

Tips for Making Sour Pickles

To make sour pickles, you’ll need to prepare a saltwater brine by warming water and salt together, and then cooling it to room temperature. After that, you’ll pack a jar with fresh cucumbers, garlic, dill and other spices. Next, pour the brine over the cucumbers and seal the jar. After that, all you need to do is wait. And within a week or so, you’ll have naturally fermented pickles.

But, as you make your pickles and ready them for fermentation, there’s a few things you should keep in mind.

Use a fermentation seal and a weight. A weight will help keep your cucumbers submerged while they ferment. While a seal will allow carbon dioxide to escape without letting oxygen in. And they both help prevent mold formation.

If you don’t use a seal, burp your pickles every two or three days to allow carbon dioxide to escape.

Use horseradish leaf. Horseradish leaf will help keep your pickles firm, and prevent them from becoming mushy. You can also use grape leaf, cherry leaf or even black tea.

How long should I let them ferment?

While fermentation is steeped in science, it’s also an art. And your pickle are ready when they taste pleasantly sour to you. That could be as little as a week, or as long as several months.

Temperature matters. Sour pickles will ferment quickly in a warm kitchen, and slowly in a cool one.

Volume matters, too. A quart of pickles will ferment more quickly than a 5-gallon crock of pickles.

Taste your pickles. They’re done when they taste good to you.

How do I store fermented pickles?

When the pickles taste right to you, transfer them to the fridge. Or, you can store them in another cool spot, like your basement or root cellar. Cold temperatures slow down the fermentation process. Sour pickles should keep about a year in cold temperatures.

Sour Pickles Recipe

<![CDATA[.wprm-recipe-rating .wprm-rating-star.wprm-rating-star-full svg * fill: #343434; ]]>

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Fermentation: 7 days

Total Time: 7 days 10 minutes

Servings: 8 servings (1 quart)

Calories: 19kcal

Sharply sour and infused with the intense flavor of dill and garlic, these sour pickles are made the traditional way, by allowing cucumbers to ferment in a saltwater brine.

Print Recipe

Instructions

Pour a quart of water into saucepan. Set it on the stove, and then turn up the heat to medium-high. Stir in the sea salt until it dissolves fully, and then allow the water to cool to room temperature.

Trim the cucumbers of any tough stems and flower ends, and then place them in bowl. Cover them with cold water to refresh them, at least 20 minutes and up to 1 hour.

Drain the cucumbers, and then place them into your jar. Drop in the garlic and spices, and then slide the horseradish leaf and dill into the jar. Cover the cucumbers with the saltwater brine. Place a weight over the pickles, and then seal the jar.

Allow the pickles to ferment at room temperature until they turn from vivid green to a dull green, and smell pleasantly sour – at least 1 week and up to 2 months, depending on how sour you like them.

Eat the pickles right away, or store them in the fridge up to 1 year.

Notes

Substitutions: If you don’t have flowering dill, substitute about 1/2 cup fresh dill or a few tablespoons of dried dill.  And if you can’t find horseradish leaf, try using grape leaves, sour cherry leaves or even a spoonful of black tea.

Nutrition

Serving: 75g | Calories: 19kcal | Carbohydrates: 3g | Protein: 1g | Fat: 1g | Saturated Fat: 1g | Sodium: 1753mg | Potassium: 184mg | Fiber: 1g | Sugar: 1g | Vitamin A: 12.1% | Vitamin C: 13.3% | Calcium: 3.8% | Iron: 1.7%

Troubleshooting Your Pickles

Unlike homemade yogurt, which is easy to make, sour pickles can be finicky. Sometimes it’s a totally normal aspect of fermentation. But other times it’s a sign that you may need to make some adjustments.

You might see a white film develop. Kahm yeast is common in fermented pickles. Don’t worry. It’s benign and your pickles will turn out fine. Just gently lift it off, and discard it.

Your pickles will get cloudy. It’s a sign that all those beneficial bacteria are working!

Your garlic might turn blue. Fermented garlic often takes on a blue color. It’s normal! Antioxidants in garlic can react to the acidity created during fermentation by turning blue.

Your pickles may become hollow. Large cucumbers and fermenting in a hot kitchen may make your pickles hollow, but they’re still safe to eat.

Your pickles might turn mushy. Mushy pickles are usually a result of using old cucumbers, fermenting at high temperatures or forgetting to add horseradish leaf (or another ingredient rich in tannins).

Love it? Share it.

Source: https://nourishedkitchen.com/sour-pickles/

[robertpatrick8]

5 DIY Projects to Improve Your Backyard

Professional landscaping companies can cost a small fortune; so, why use them when you could get the same results with some determination and a little bit of sweat? DIY projects for improving your backyard are not as hard as you might think. This guide will provide handy landscaping ideas that will transform your home’s exterior into a personal paradise. These plans are timeless, budget-friendly, and should only take a few days or less of your time. Besides, there’s nothing quite as satisfying as doing it yourself.

Stain Your Deck

Staining your deck not only adds protection and improves aesthetic, but it also increases your property value. Hiring a professional contractor to stain your deck may cost between $500 and $1500, depending on its size. For your project, the materials should cost under $100 or a little more if your deck is greater than 144 square feet (12×12). Read the back of the container to see how many square feet it covers and work out how many gallons you need.

There are three basic types of stain for decks: 1. Solid Color Stain: Solid color stain is a water-based stain that goes on and works like paint. This is an ideal option for older decks or those with preexisting coats of stain. Use water for clean-up. 2. Water-Based Stain: Water-based stain is a fast drying stain, and it’s easy to work with. If you’re using a water-based stain, apply a top-coat of water-seal for best results and use water for clean-up. 3. Oil-Based Stain: Oil-based stain is the most popular type due to its deep penetrating properties that repels and beads water. Use mineral spirits or paint thinner to clean brushes, rollers, or accidents

Supplies:

Choice of stain

Paintbrush

Roller/tray

Stirring stick

Rags

Mineral spirits/water (clean-up)

Directions:

Cleaning your deck is crucial for the stain to properly adhere to the wood. If you have an older deck with lots of chipping stain or debris embedded in the wood, use a pressure washer with a fan tip and let it dry. For newer decks in good condition, an air compressor with a spray nozzle will do the job. You can also sweep or vacuum, but the other two methods work better.

Use your paintbrush to cut-in the wood for sections of the deck that are attached to your house, hard to reach areas, under railings, and the wood closest to the ground.

Starting by the house where you cut the stain in, use your roller to start. Only paint two to three boards at a time to avoid imperfections in the drying stain. Roll the entire length of the boards, then back-brush the boards with your paintbrush while the stain is still wet. You can add more stain to your brush if needed.

Most stain does a great job of covering the first time around, but if it looks like it could use another coat, don’t be afraid to apply more. The good news is that the second coat goes on quicker, and you don’t use as much stain because the first coat has already soaked into the wood.

Let it dry for 24 hours before use.

Clean your brushes and roller with either water or mineral spirits depending on the stain you are using.

Break out the BBQ grill, cold beers, and call some friends over for a great time.

Concrete Lady Bugs

Concrete ladybugs make a great accent piece for your landscaping. Place them by trees, pathways, decks, gardens, or in various locations in the yard. These cute little bugs are surprisingly easy to make.

Supplies:

Round Container

Water

Cement

Chalk

Plastic bag

2 white glass beads

Red and black tiles

Glue

Directions:

Make your ladybug the size according to the mold you use.

Find a round container with a bottom that resembles a ladybug.

Use the plastic bag and line the inside.

Mix cement according to directions and fill the mold.

Once the mold is dry, use the chalk to draw some unique patterns.

Glue the tiles pieces according to your patterns.

Glue the eyes with the two white glass marbles.

Enjoy!

Decorative Stone Paver Fire Pit

A decorative stone paver fire pit in your backyard is a simple DIY project that has numerous benefits. These decorative fire pits are great for social gatherings, cooking, and even some roasted s’mores for the kids. A professional stone mason will cost you between $500 and $1000 to build something you can do yourself for under $100 by making a quick trip to your local home improvement store. Besides, let’s be honest, it’s just like camping, and it brings people together.

Supplies:

Stone pavers or substitute bricks/blocks

Gravel or sand

Stake

String

Tape Measure

Spray paint

Rake

Shovel

Directions:

The number of stone pavers or bricks or blocks will depend on the size of the stones and the fire pit. A standard fire pit size is three to four feet wide and one foot tall. Do some mathematics for what you need but always buy a few extra.

Place your fire pit at least 25 feet away from overhanging tree limbs and structures.

Place a stake where you want the center of the fire pit.

Tie a piece of string half of the diameter of the desired size.

Hold the end of the string with one hand, and hold the can of spray paint with the other hand. Then spray a circle by walking around the stake.

Dig out the hole with the shovel a few inches deep.

Fill the hole with the gravel or sand and level.

Place the stones around the perimeter, then add a second or third layer until you reach a height of at least 12 inches.

Add some more gravel or sand to fill in the bottom of the fire pit.

Call some friends and have a bonfire.

Build a Hammock

Have you ever felt like laying around for the day to take a nap or to read a good book? A hammock is a great addition to your yard, and they’re very appealing and comfortable. They’re very easy to make and will last a few years before you need to change the muslin.

Supplies:

2 1/2 yards of muslin-44-inches wide

1/4 inch of 100-foot clothesline

(2) 8-inch anchor shackles

(2) ¼- inch spring links

Thread (white or off-white)

(2) 5 -foot sections of chain link

Sewing machine

Pins

Scissors

Tape measure

Directions:

Cut a 4 X 44-inch strip of muslin and fold it in half.

Lay it on a flat surface. Pin the muslin strip along the side edge. (2 inches)

Sew the edges with a sewing machine. This will add support.

Using a tape measure, mark it three times, 11 inches apart. Cut out a 1-inch rectangle on each mark. Sew the edges of the rectangle.

Fold the muslin in half, and sew the edges to create an opening for the rope.

Cut the rope into 4 pieces, each 8-foot in length, using a pair of scissors. Burn the edges to prevent fraying. Feed the rope through the holes, looping it around to each opening until you get to the other end. Tie knots at each rope end when done.

Gather the ends and make a bowline knot around the ankle shackle.

Repeat the process for the other end.

Dress it up with some more fabric like lace or fringe to make it personal.

Use the springs to connect to a rope or chain, and hang it where you want.

Heart-Shaped Rose Garden

Add some love to your yard with a heart-shaped rose garden. It’s not difficult to design and will brighten up the look and feel of your home.

Supplies: – Stones, rocks or bricks – Soil liner – Topsoil – Mulch – Rose bushes – Spray paint – Garden tools/tiller

Directions: 1. Materials will depend on the size you want to make it. 2. Locate where you want the heart-shaped rose garden to go. 3. Using the spray paint, spray the heart to the size you want it. 4. Dig up the topsoil with a tiller or hand tools like a rake, shovel, etc. 5. Remove all rocks, twigs, and debris. 6. Add your soil liner and cut along the edges of the spray paint to the same size as the heart. 7. Place your building materials on the perimeter of the heart-shape. Add another layer if desired. Tip: broken rock walls in tree lines will have an abundance of building materials for your project. 8. Fill the inside of the garden with new topsoil, minimum of 6 inches. 9. Plant rose bushes of different colors in different locations. 10. Top it off with some mulch. 11. Enjoy the rosy beauty with someone you love.

There’s nothing like doing DIY projects to spruce up your backyard. Not only can you save a lot of money, but you also get the satisfaction of making something beautiful out of nothing. Share these DIY ideas with your friends and have some fun together while you’re doing them.

The post 5 DIY Projects to Improve Your Backyard appeared first on Lawnstarter.

from Gardening Resource https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/home-garden/5-diy-projects-to-improve-your-backyard/

[loriglessner]

Pattern is, essentially, a compilation of elements of design: line, rhythm, repetition…Not slavish duplication, but echoing, re-enforcing, reminding….~author unknown

WORKSHOP NUMBER TWO Mixed Media Encaustic: Pattern Limited to 8 participants! Level: Beginner to Advanced $400 includes most materials (see below) For Registration, Please Contact: Lorraine Glessner, lorraineglessnerstudio@gmail.com

Payment Payment of 50% of the workshop fee + materials ($200) is due at the time of registration with the remaining 50% ($200) due on the first day of the workshop. Please contact Lorraine for payment details.

When April 5-7, 2019, 10am-4pm each day

Where Dora Ficher’s Fabulous Studio at Scott’s Mills 3510 Scott’s Lane, #118, Philadelphia, PA

Dora Ficher’s amazing studio at Scott’s Mills

Who For Lorraine’s bio, work, exhibitions, teaching and anything else you might want to know, please visit her web site.

Workshop Number Two Description Repeated use of a shape, color or design element unifies composition, creates pattern, rhythm and movement as well as reinforces content. This workshop focuses on the creation of intricate patterns, expressive personal surfaces and complex, multi-layered pieces utilizing and in combination with encaustic painting techniques. With an emphasis on mixed media, methods and materials covered in this workshop include creating motifs, rust printing on fabric, organic and geometric form, realistic and abstract imagery, patterned collage, stencils, tjaps and candy molds. Considerations such as using pattern and repetition as content itself, to tell a story, support and/or strengthen the content message will also be discussed.

SCROLL DOWN TO SEE images of student work from encaustic workshops similar in content to this one. Additional blog posts related to other encaustic workshops taught by Lorraine are here, here and here.

WORKSHOP NUMBER TWO WHAT TO BRING: the following is a list of materials for the student to bring to the workshop

3-6 wooden painting panels (your preference of 8×8 or 10×10, but no larger or smaller, please) (nothing coated in acrylic or acrylic gesso!!)

2-4 actual or images of your work

3-5 natural hair brushes in various sizes for encaustic painting (1 brush will be designated your medium brush, so it must be free of color if you are bringing used brushes)

1lb encaustic medium from any company (containers provided)

a variety of basic encaustic colors will be provided, however, if you prefer certain colors, please bring them. (containers provided)

sketchbook or drawing paper and drawing media of your choice

package of razor blades or scraper

smock (optional)

sharp scissors

any tool or material for any technique that you normally employ while working with encaustic

iwatani torch (optional)

textured objects and/or sharp ended tool for pressing into/incising/writing/drawing into wax.

materials for collage (papers, magazine images, photos, etc.)

decorative stencils, mesh, doilies, etc-anything flat with open areas that can be used as a stencil.

rusty metal objects or objects that will rust

½ yard, even-weave, white or light colored natural fabric for rust/compost printing and painting. RTD or PFD fabrics are preferred and are available from dharmatrading.com. Alternatives are old sheets and/or tshirts that have been frequently washed.

paper punches (will be provided, however, if you have favorites, please bring them)

Tjaps (will be provided, however, if you have favorites, please bring them)

MATERIALS INSTRUCTOR WILL PROVIDE 

paraffin for brush cleaning

heated encaustic tools and irons

wood burning tools

Disposable gloves

Extra drawing paper

Wax paper

Parchment paper

encaustic paints

2 cups salt

masking tape

1 gallon size plastic bags

Tracing paper

Graphite transfer paper

cups for mixing instant indigo

Extra razor blades

Pans and cups for paint and medium

Linseed oil

paper punches

2 iwatani torches with extra butane

instant indigo

extra fabric

extra rusty objects

Cancellation In the event that you need to cancel your workshop, please notify Lorraine at least 30 days prior to the start of the workshop and your deposit will be refunded. No refunds will be available for cancellations occurring less than 30 days from the start of the workshop.

Food There will be no food served during the workshops, you must bring lunch and snacks each day. There are a number of eateries, cafes, restaurants and markets nearby. There is also a refrigerator, microwave and coffee machine in the studio for your use as well as a wonderful cafe area with tables in the adjacent galleries.

  For Registration, Please Contact: Lorraine Glessner, lorraineglessnerstudio@gmail.com

  Workshop Highlight: A Bonus Philadelphia Encaustic Workshop #2: Pattern. Register Soon, Limited to only 8 Participants! Pattern is, essentially, a compilation of elements of design: line, rhythm, repetition…Not slavish duplication, but echoing, re-enforcing, reminding....~

[livingcorner]

How to Paint Your Kitchen Cabinets

If you’ve noticed the cost of new appliances, countertops, and cabinets, it’s no surprise that renovating a kitchen is one of the most expensive remodeling projects. While few homeowners find ways to boost the look of a dated refrigerator or tired granite, transforming a kitchen by freshening the cabinets that make up most of the room’s visual space is entirely within reach. But there’s more to the job than buying a gallon of your favorite color.

Read our step-by-step instructions on how to get the job done right.

You're reading: How to Paint Your Kitchen Cabinets

How Much Does it Cost to Paint Kitchen Cabinets?

Renovating a kitchen is one of the most expensive remodeling projects that you can take on, and replacing the cabinets can account for nearly 40 percent of that cost.

Cabinets for a 10-by 12-foot kitchen can easily top $5,000—and your new cabinets may actually be of lower quality than the ones you’re replacing. On the other hand, a few fresh coats of paint can go a long way toward transforming your existing cabinets for a fraction of that price. In fact, the cost of painting should be no more than about $200, plus a weekend or two of your time.

Should I Paint My Cabinets?

Before you head out to the paint store, however, examine your cabinets to see if they can be resuscitated in the first place. Even the highest-quality paint job can’t revive cheap cabinets that have grown frail with age. Thin veneers peel or delaminate, particleboard cabinet bottoms or shelves sag or break, and hanging rails come loose. If these are the issues you’re dealing with, you’d actually be better off replacing your kitchen cabinets.

Assuming that everything is still in fine shape and good working order, let’s examine some of the questions you’ll need to address before you start repainting your kitchen cabinets.

What Type of Paint Do I Need for Cabinets?

Oil or latex?

Latex paints have been improving steadily, leading some pros to give up oil-based paints entirely. Because they dry quickly and clean up with water, latex paints are more user-friendly than oil-based paints. But many pros still favor oil-based topcoats, arguing that they form a harder, more durable paint film and level out to a smoother finished surface. Latex paints also take longer (up to three weeks) than oil-based paints to fully cure. In the meantime, they’re susceptible to damage.

Read more: 4 Benefits of Having a Pot Filler in Your Kitchen

Bottom line: Either oil or latex will provide a good finish. If you do use a latex paint, make sure it’s a 100 percent acrylic formulation, which offers greater durability and adhesion than vinyl acrylic paints.

Brush or Spray Paint?

A sprayed-on finish is the smoothest option, but there’s a learning curve for doing it properly. You’ll also likely need to rent the spray equipment, which drives up your costs, and you’ll have to mask off all the areas in the kitchen that could accidentally get sprayed, including countertops, cabinet interiors, and appliances, which is a time-consuming process.

For these reasons, we recommend you opt for using high-quality brushes instead. Invest in a good, 3- to 4-inch-wide square brush, whose straight ends will make short work of large, flat panels, as well as an angled brush in the 2½- or 3-inch-wide range, which will help you get paint into the corners of doors with molding and can coat door frames in one pass. Latex paint should be applied with a synthetic bristle brush, which doesn’t absorb water; oil-based paint should be applied with a natural-bristle brush.

Can you just paint over cabinets or should you strip them?

When the existing finish is a clear coat, the best course of action is to strip the finish down to the bare wood before painting. This eliminates a potential adhesion problem between the old finish and the new paint.

But while stripping may be the ideal for purists, it’s not always practical or absolutely necessary. A thorough cleaning followed by light sanding should be enough to prepare the surface for new paint.

Regular or faux finish?

If you’re open to spicing up your kitchen’s look, incorporating a faux finish can transform its style into shabby chic, rustic, provincial, or modern. Crackling glaze, which is available at paint stores, can, with very little effort, give your cabinets a weathered look. Just apply the glaze over a dry base coat, brushing in only one direction (thick for large cracks, thin for fine cracks), and let it dry. Finish with a flat topcoat of the base color brushed on perpendicular to the glaze. The paint will start to form cracks as it dries, a process that takes about an hour.

Another rustic style is the distressed look, which doesn’t require a special paint. This finish is made up of layered colors and spattered dark paint. When the paint is dry, to reveal the colors underneath, distress the finish by hitting it with a chain and lightly sanding in the spots where the cabinets get the most use.

Similarly, the antiqued, slowly aged look can be achieved with some paint magic. Simply dip the tip of a paintbrush in a color lighter than the cabinets and dab the excess onto a cloth until the brush is almost dry, then lightly graze the surface of the detail trim, corners, and seams.

On the other end of the spectrum is a high-gloss finish, which will transform your kitchen into a polished, modern space. To shine up your cabinets, paint a high-gloss clear acrylic varnish over your final coat. This technique will add depth to the color and cover the surface of your kitchen with a glassy sheen.

Paint Brushes and Materials You’ll Need

Paint – Look for a paint designed for trim, often labeled enamel. The higher the sheen, the more durable the finish—high gloss will stand up better than satin.

Roller – Use a 4- or 6-inch foam roller to cover the sides of cabinets and their face frames.

Square Brush – The straight end of a 3- to 4-inch-wide brush makes short work of large, flat panels.

Angled Brush – A synthetic angled brush in the 2½- or 3-inch-wide range helps you get paint into corners of doors with molding, and can coat door frames in one pass.

HVLP Sprayer – Not into the hand-brushed look? Spraying on a topcoat is the easiest way to get a smooth, factory-like finish. High volume/low-pressure sprayers are versatile enough to spray cabinets, fence panels, or exterior trim.

What To Do Before You Start

Consider The Cost and Get a New Kitchen on a Budget

Brown Bird Design

Cabinets can account for nearly 40 percent of a kitchen’s cost. Here’s how three common cabinet upgrades stack up in an average 10-by-10-foot kitchen.

Repainting would cost less than $200. Adding new drawers and doors runs about $1,300, while upgrading to ready-to-assemble cabinets starts at about $1,630.

Read more: Laminate Vs. Two Pack – An in-depth comparison – DIAMOND INTERIORS

Set up a Temporary Kitchen

Painting your cabinets means taking a vital room completely off-line.

Plan ahead: Set up a kitchen in a nearby room with a hot plate, a toaster oven, and a cooler to serve as a fridge during the project. Oh, and use paper plates.

Steps for Painting Cabinets

1. Prep the room

A successful paint job lies in diligent prep work, and the first few steps are focused on prepping the room and cabinets for painting.

Start by emptying the cabinets, clearing off the counters, and removing any freestanding appliances.

Relocate tables and other furniture to another room.

Tape rosin paper over the countertops and flooring, and, to protect the rest of the house from dust and fumes, tape plastic sheeting over the backsplash, windows, fixed appliances, and interior doorways.

Mask off the wall around the cabinets.

Set up a worktable for painting doors, drawers, and shelves.

TIP: Set Up a DIY Paint Station

Brown Bird Design

This makeshift jig provides access to all sides of a cabinet door to reduce downtime during drying. Here’s how to set it up:

Span a pair of 2x4s at eye level between two ladders.

Screw eye hooks into one end of a 2×4, where doors will be painted, and at the other end, screw hooks into both 2x4s to hang painted doors from.

Add corresponding hooks to the top edges of upper cabinet doors and the bottoms of lower doors and drawers, where the holes left behind won’t be visible.

2. Remove the doors, drawers, and shelves

Illustration by Gregory Nemec

Back out the hinge screws from the cabinet frame and remove the doors.

Working from left to right, top to bottom, label each one with a numbered piece of tape. Also, number the edges of cabinet shelves and the bottoms of drawers.

Set aside the shelf-hanging hardware.

At your worktable, remove the pulls and hinges and save what’s being reused.

On the doors, transfer the number from the tape to the exposed wood under one hinge.

Cover it with fresh tape.

3. Clean all the surfaces

Use ordinary household cleaners to remove the grime from the face frames, doors, drawer fronts, and shelving. If ordinary cleaners aren’t effective, consider using a stronger cleaner like trisodium phosphate (TSP), which is sold at hardware and paint stores. Just make sure you follow the safety precautions on the container.

Once all the cabinet pieces are clean, rinse them thoroughly with water and let them dry.

4. Prep the boxes

Open the windows for ventilation and put on safety gear. Using an abrasive pad dipped in a liquid deglosser, scrub down all of the surfaces.

Hold a rag underneath to catch drips. Before the deglosser evaporates, quickly wipe away the residue with another clean, deglosser-dampened rag.

If you’re relocating the hardware, fill the old screw holes with a two-part polyester wood or autobody filler.

It sets in about 5 minutes, so mix only small batches. The filler shrinks a bit, so overfill the holes slightly.

As soon as it sets, remove the excess with a sharp paint scraper. If it hardens completely, sand it smooth.

Sand all the surfaces with the grain using 100-grit paper.

Vacuum the cabinets inside and out to make sure no bits of dust mar the finish, then rub them down with a tack cloth for extra measure.

5. Prime the cabinet boxes

Photo by Kolin Smith

Now it’s time for the primer. If the cabinets are heavily stained, use a stain-blocking primer, which dries quickly and seals knots and other surface defects that might bleed through the topcoats. In most situations, however, stain-blockers shouldn’t be necessary, and an oil-based or 100 percent acrylic latex primer will work just fine.

Starting at the top of the cabinet, brush on the primer across the grain, then “tip off”—pass the brush lightly over the wet finish in the direction of the grain. Always tip off in a single stroke from one end to the other.

Make sure to follow the underlying structure of the cabinet or door with the brush. Where a rail butts into a stile, for instance, paint the rail first, overlapping slightly onto the stile, then paint the stile before the overlap dries.

6. Sand, caulk, and fill

Photo by Kolin Smith

After the primer is dry, sand the flat surfaces with 220-grit paper.

Sand any profiled surfaces with a medium-grit sanding sponge. The wood should end up feeling glass-smooth.

Squeeze a thin bead of latex caulk into any open seams. (The hole in a caulk tube’s tip should be no bigger than the tip of a sharp pencil.)

Pull the tip as you go, then smooth the caulk with a damp finger. Fill any small dents, scratches, or dings with vinyl spackle, smoothed flat with a putty knife.

Once the spackle is dry (about 60 minutes), sand again with 220-grit paper, vacuum, and wipe with a tack cloth.

With a spray can of fast-drying oil-based primer, spot-prime the spackle and any spots where the sandpaper has “burned through” the primer.

Wait an hour, then sand the primer lightly with 280-grit paper.

Vacuum all the surfaces, and wipe them with a tack cloth.

7. Paint the cabinet boxes

Photo by Kolin Smith

You’re finally ready to paint! If you’re using roughly the same shade as the existing color, two coats ought to do the job. You might even get away with one. Painting over a dark finish with a light color is tougher and could require three coats. Break out a new brush for each coat.

Working from top to bottom, apply the paint to the cabinet exterior across the grain, then tip it off with the grain.

For the cabinet interior, apply the paint with a smooth-surface mini roller, which leaves a slightly bumpy, orange-peel texture.

Between coats, sand the surfaces lightly, making sure to clean up the debris afterwards.

8. Prep, prime, and paint the doors, drawers, and shelves

The strategy for prepping, priming, and painting doors, drawers, and shelves is the same as for the cabinets, except that all the work is done on a table to reduce the chance of drips, runs, and sags.

When painting paneled doors, start with the area around the panel.

Then, do the main field of the panel, and finish with the stiles and rails around the edges.

As you go along, wipe up any paint that ends up on adjacent dry surfaces to eliminate the chance of lap marks.

Tip: To speed up the drying time for doors, you can twist two screw hooks into holes drilled in an inconspicuous door edge (the lower edge for bottom cabinets, the upper edge for top cabinets). Paint the door’s outside face and let it dry for an hour while resting flat, then tilt the door up onto its hooks and put a drywall screw into an existing hardware hole. Hold the tilted door up by the screw and paint the door’s back side.

When you’re done painting, pick up the door by the screw and one hook and hang both hooks on a sturdy clothes hanger.

Suspend the door from a shower curtain rod or clothes rod until it dries.

9. Put back all the pieces

Photo by Kolin Smith

After the final coat is dry, replace the shelves.

Remove the tape over each door’s number, install the hinges and knob, and hang them in their original opening.

Replace the drawer pulls (or add new ones) and reinstall each drawer.

Recommended Tools:

Source: https://livingcorner.com.au Category: Kitchen

source https://livingcorner.com.au/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets/

[cookingawe]

The Best Ice Cream Scoops

New Post has been published on http://cookingawe.com/the-best-ice-cream-scoops/

The Best Ice Cream Scoops

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[Photographs: Vicky Wasik]

We’ve all been there: The craving for ice cream hits, so you grab a spoon and start digging into a pint, hoping to transfer a mound of mint chocolate chip into your bowl. But the spoon bends, hurting your hand in the process, and the hard ice cream remains unmoved.

Let’s not be those people anymore. An ice cream scoop is sturdier than just about any other utensil in your kitchen. It’s also more comfortable to use, and it has a bowl designed to turn frozen dairy into picture-perfect spheres. Whether you buy pints from the supermarket or take the time to make your own at home, you’ll want to serve your ice cream from a scoop that helps you nail that iconic presentation.

We rounded up 17 models, ranging from around $5 to $35, and put them through scooping tests to find the shape and design that work best.

Our Favorite, at a Glance

The Best Ice Cream Scoop: Zeroll Original Ice Cream Scoop

The Zeroll ice cream scoop’s shape has changed little since it came out in 1935, and for good reason. Inside the comfortable one-piece design is a food-safe liquid that transfers heat from your hand to the bowl, making it easier to form tidy ice cream mounds. With no moving parts, the scoop should last for years—just be sure to clean it by hand, as it’s not dishwasher-safe. Because the Zeroll’s bowl and handle are symmetrical, it works equally well for righty and lefty users.

The Criteria: What We Look for in a Great Ice Cream Scoop

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The bowl shapes on the scoops we tested ranged from oval to shovel-shaped to round. Testers found it easier to scoop from tools with oval bowls.

To justify the purchase of this unitasker, an ice cream scoop should dole out the dairy with far less effort than it takes using a common spoon. A good scoop won’t flex or break, even when plowing through the hardest pint. The bowl’s design should cut through the ice cream easily and curl it into a pleasing ball as you finish the scooping motion. The goal isn’t just to get the ice cream out—you can do that with a butter knife, or by jamming your face into the pint—but to do so with relative ease, and to mold it into a nice shape for your Instagram-worthy three-scoop sundae. A scoop allows you to serve consistently sized portions, avoiding the mashup of ice cream shards and massive icebergs you get with a regular spoon. The bowl should release the payload without requiring an excessive amount of flicking, and it shouldn’t leave chunks of your ice cream clinging to it. Digging out ice cream can be hard work, so the handle has to be comfortable, too.

There are three popular styles of ice cream removal tools: the scoop, the disher, and the spade. While researching which models to test, we noticed a nearly universal preference for one-piece scoops, like our winner. Reviewers commonly complain that disher-style designs—distinguished by the metal sweeper bar that clears the ice cream out of the inside of the bowl—are strenuous to use, and that the mechanical parts can become hard to move over time. They’re also hand-specific, so lefties have a hard time using scoops designed for righties. Meanwhile, spades usually won’t break down, but they have wide, flat ends that make them impractical when you’re scooping from narrow pints. They’re a better choice if you work in a gelato shop, serving from big tubs of soft ice cream. While we tested some dishers and spades, we focused on scoops.

The bowl shapes we tested ranged from round to oval to ones that look like a shovel. Overall, we found that oval bowls did a better job of curling the ice cream onto itself. There were some round-bowl models that formed nice scoops, but they were uncomfortable to use because their wide heads created more resistance as you dug into the ice cream. The handles on these tools can be solid or hollow; some are covered in grippy rubber. Our winning model is made of hollow, conductive aluminum and filled with a liquid that helps warm the bowl, which makes it easier to scoop hard ice cream. Testers also gravitated toward lightweight aluminum tools over the heavier-duty solid stainless steel models.

To select specific models to test, we cross-referenced reviews on Amazon, America’s Test Kitchen (subscription required), Consumer Reports (subscription required), The Wirecutter, Food & Wine, The Kitchn, and Epicurious.

The Testing

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Scooping Ice Cream

Our favorite ice cream scoop has a comfortable, round handle.

A good ice cream scoop makes it easier to form rounded mounds from a variety of frozen desserts in a range of containers. We tested with pints of “super-premium” chunky ice creams, like Ben & Jerry’s Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough and Häagen-Dazs’s Rocky Road, as well as one-and-a-half-quart tubs of smoother, “premium” Turkey Hill French Vanilla and Friendly’s Chocolate Almond Chip. We also scooped from pint-sized containers of Ciao Bella’s Blood Orange Sorbetto.

These ice creams offered a range of textures and densities for our scooping tests. “Super-premium” ice creams feel firmer out of the freezer than other brands because they’re denser. The density is largely determined by “overrun,” which is ice cream industry lingo for the amount of air incorporated into the product during churning. Higher overrun means more air is trapped in the ice cream, making it easier to scoop and portion. “Super-premium ice cream is around 20 to 30% overrun, while premium brands are around 80 to 100%,” says Professor Robert Roberts, head of the food science department at Penn State University.

We lined up four testers, a mix of righties and lefties, with varying hand sizes and strengths. Testers scooped two or three times from containers of ice cream using the tools, emptying the portions into pint containers or onto sugar cones. As testers evaluated the scoops, we recorded their observations on the shape of the ice cream portion, how comfortable the handle was, and how easily the scoop released the ice cream.

The one-piece scoops with oval bowls performed the best and were the easiest to use. Testers preferred the simple design to models that released the ice cream mechanically using a sweeper bar or lever. Many of the scoops had an ambidextrous handle that was comfortable for both righty and lefty testers; in the end, we found that an unadorned, round shaft was the most pleasant to use.

Uniformity of the Scoop

An oval bowl encourages the ice cream to curl in on itself, forming a nice round ball.

A scoop should be comfortable to use, of course, but it should also create round balls of ice cream. To test how well each model shaped ice cream, we scooped from a range of containers and awarded points to models that produced round orbs.

Testers had an easier time forming balls of ice cream using scoops with oval bowls, like our winning Zeroll. As mentioned earlier, the oval shape encourages the dairy to curl in on itself as you scrape across the ice cream. Shovel-shaped heads didn’t do nearly as well, requiring more effort to pack the ice cream into a ball. The disher-style scoops had round bowls that formed pleasant spheres, but the sweeper bar often left chunks of ice cream behind in the scoop, and some of the tools had uncomfortable handles. One model we tested, the Scoop That II, has a round head that forms nice spheres and a comfortable handle, but, with a big bowl of just over two inches wide, digging and pulling it across hard ice cream was strenuous.

We also set the scoops onto standard sugar cones to see if any of the models produced portions that were too large or small. Most of the scoops turned out a portion that was about the same size as the cone’s opening, or slightly larger. Nearly all of the scoops we tested had bowls that produced a two- to three-ounce portion, which is about the right size for a standard serving of ice cream in two or three scoops. Many pro-style scoops, like the Zeroll and disher scoops, have color-coded handles with numbers stamped on them indicating the size of the portion they yield. That number in turn indicates how many portions the tool can make from a quart or gallon of ice cream, which can range from 60 small orbs to 20 massive balls. (Importantly, though, the number on the handle is not equivalent to the number of portions the scoop can get out of a quart or gallon.) Our winning Zeroll is a #20 scoop, which means it gets 40 portions from a gallon of ice cream.

Ease of Release

A perfect scoop of ice cream can be ruined by a bowl that doesn’t release cleanly. Testers noted how easily each scoop dropped the ice cream into an empty quart container.

The better models let go of the ice cream quickly, without leaving much behind in the bowl and without requiring excessive shaking. Our winning Zeroll didn’t take much effort to drop the ice cream and wasn’t noticeably grippier than the company’s nonstick-coated model. The disher-style and shovel-shaped scoops left more ice cream behind than the tools with oval bowls, which released without much fuss.

Handle Shape and Material

Digging out ice cream, especially that first scoop from a rock-hard pint, isn’t always pretty. You’re less likely to notice the difficulty if the handle is robust and comfortable. The handles on our test models ranged from bare metal to hard plastic to rubbery grips surrounding solid metal. Both lefty and righty testers used the scoops and scored them on comfort.

Testers found rubber handles comfortable, but, oddly enough, every model with a rubber handle also had a shovel-shaped bowl, which is harder to use. The most expensive model we tested, the Midnight Scoop, has a solid stainless steel body that’s hefty and balanced—unfortunately, it’s too easy to push the ice cream, rather than scoop and round it. Our winner sports a smooth handle that’s about three and a half inches in circumference, which was comfortable for most of the testers. The Good Cook model has a bowl that splits apart when you release the handles; while it formed nice balls of ice cream and released them easily, testers didn’t like having to squeeze the handles closed while scooping hard ice cream. Our testers complained about handle comfort with disher-style scoops, too.

How We Chose Our Winner

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While all the models we tested will get your favorite flavor out of a container and onto a cone, our winning scoop makes it easier to serve the hardest, chunkiest ice cream without straining your wrist.

The Best Ice Cream Scoop: Zeroll Original Ice Cream Scoop

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The Zeroll is a nearly indestructible classic that sees heavy use in ice cream shops. With little effort, the bowl’s oval shape curls ice cream into a ball, and the neat orbs roll out of the scoop easily without much shaking. The one-piece, lightweight aluminum design includes a handle filled with a food-safe mineral oil that helps transfer heat from your hand to the bowl, making it easier to cut through frozen ice cream. During testing, the models that featured the same design generally tended to make scooping easier.

To test the heat-transfer claims, we submerged the head of the Zeroll, and another model with the same design feature, into a bath of salt and ice that was -5°F (-21°C). After letting them chill for five minutes, we yanked them out, taped thermocouples to the centers of the bowls, and held them for five minutes while recording the temperatures. The test showed that the bowls on both scoops warmed up to around 73°F (23°C), which was warmer than the ambient room temperature at the time of the test. While you have to hold the scoop for a minute or so for the heat to kick in, the warmer bowl, combined with the narrow, oval shape, makes it easier to melt a path through the ice cream.

Most of the Amazon complaints about the Zeroll come from people who washed the scoop in the dishwasher. The manufacturer suggests hand-washing because the aluminum can react with the high heat and chemical detergent in a dishwasher, which can lead to discoloration or pitting (as it would with an aluminum baking sheet). Instead, clean it by hand with a mild soap and let it dry, and it should last years. Both lefty and righty testers commented that the Zeroll’s plain shaft was comfortable and balanced.

The Competition

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A few quick notes on the other scoops we tested:

The Zeroll nonstick-coated model is slightly more expensive than our winner, and, while it scoops just as well, we don’t think it releases the ice cream with noticeably more ease. After a few days of use and washing in the sink with the rest of the models, the handle had a few nicks in the finish, which doesn’t look great.

The spade on the Zeroll Tubmate is two and five-eighths inches wide, making it difficult to work with in smaller, pint-sized containers.

The New Star scoop is a copy of our winning Zeroll’s design, and its handle is also filled with a liquid that transfers heat from your hand to the scoop. (The manufacturer would not identify the liquid.) It ranked just behind the Zeroll in our tests, but we think our winner is a better scoop, though it costs a little more.

The Scoop That II Warming Ice Cream Scoop was the best-performing round-bowl scoop we tested. It also features a liquid in the handle that helps warm the bowl (though, again, the manufacturer wouldn’t provide specifics). We liked the sharp cutting edge around the bowl, which made it easy to form balls of softer ice cream. But with really hard ice cream, it’s hard to dig the large head—which is more than two inches wide—into the carton.

The OXO Good Grips Solid Stainless Steel Ice Cream Scoop and the SUMO are nearly identical, with the same robust build, shovel-like bowl, and comfy grip, but both are plagued by the same issue: They’re simply too heavy. Testers also had a hard time getting the ice cream to curl into a pleasing ball.

Another OXO model, the Steel, has an almost perfectly round bowl with a lever that ejects the scoop. The ice cream sometimes stuck to the lever, and, with a bowl that’s more than two inches wide, scooping hard, “super-premium” brands was challenging.

The Good Cook Smart Scoop releases ice cream very easily, thanks to the nonstick coating and a bowl that separates into two halves. But the innovative design forces you to squeeze the handles closed while scooping, which is uncomfortable with hard ice cream.

Another model from Good Cook, the Twister, requires turning your wrist as you dig down into the ice cream. During testing, it was difficult to form a true ball of ice cream, and the twisting motion is awkward.

The pricey Midnight Scoop looks like a piece of modern sculpture. To use it, you push with the palm of your hand, rather than pulling, like with a traditional scoop. There’s a bit of a learning curve to use it correctly; for us, it pushed the ice cream like a bulldozer, never really scooping it. This ergonomic model also needs a wide-open area to work in, so, if you buy ice cream in narrow pint or quart containers, this probably isn’t the right tool for you.

The Wilton scoop looks like a hammerhead shark, with wings that work well at getting into every area inside a container of ice cream. It’s comfortable, with a nice weight, but it doesn’t do well at forming balls of ice cream.

The design and feel of the Norpro is very similar to that of our winner, but the oval bowl tapers as it nears the handle. That small change results in a scoop of ice cream that looks more like a narrow disk than a round mound.

The Solula is Amazon’s best-selling disher-style scoop as of the time of testing. While it’s well built, ice cream clings to the bowl, and the #40-size scoop we tested is too small, making portions that fell into the depths of a sugar cone.

Another Amazon top seller, the KitchenAid has a narrow bowl that easily works between the ice cream and the container, but it forms more of an egg-shaped scoop, and many users complained about the chrome finish pitting and flaking off.

The dimples on the bowl of the Joseph Joseph help release the ice cream easily, but the white collar, which is designed to catch runny drips as the scoop sits up on end, makes it harder to pull the tool tight against the side of the container and form a ball.

The nice round scoops that came out of the Vollrath disher were about one and three-quarters inches in diameter, which was a bit too small for a sugar cone. But the real flaw was the thumb-actuated sweeper, which was uncomfortable to squeeze, even for testers with large hands.

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[sageinthegarden]

A new snapshot from https://sagesacre.com/2020/03/11/how-to-make-awesome-hot-sauce/

How to Make Awesome Hot Sauce

Making truly delicious hot pepper sauce is easy thanks to the magic of fermentation

TL/DR: Click here to skip to recipe

I love a good hot sauce.

Not that crazy “it’s so hot it has to be stored in a liquid nitrogen cylinder” stuff, but the spicy, complex kind that delivers a wave of interesting flavors as well as heat. For me, fermented hot sauces are the best at delivering that combination.

Fermented hot sauce, like yogurt, sourdough bread, Kosher pickles and other fermented foods, gets its unique flavor from a naturally occuring microorganism called lactobacillus. These little critters consume sugar and convert it to lactic acid which both helps preserve the food and creates unique flavors. Based on the type of pepper, the variety of lactobacillus in your surrounds, and the temperature and length of fermentation, you can make sauces that range anywhere in flavor from hot pineapple and vanilla to tangy curry and lemon grass.

Hidden Lake Hot, my pepper of choice.

Every year I make a batch of fermented hot sauce that takes nearly six months, but you can actually produce a pretty dang good batch in just a week. Even over a period that short, the fermentation process will convert the sugars in the peppers into new flavors and aromas you just don’t get with fresh sauces.

If you haven’t ever tried making your own, you definitely should. Here’s my basic and advanced recipes: 

Hot Sauce Recipes

QUICK NOTE ABOUT LACTO-FERMENTATION:

These are simple lacto-fermentation recipes using brine. Basically we want a brine salty enough to prevent bad bacteria from taking up residence, but not so salty it prevents the lactobacillus from fermenting the sugars in the peppers.

The proper proportion of salt to water is ½ tablespoon salt for every 1 cup water.

The water should be filtered, not tap, and salt should be iodine free to prevent off flavors or colors. Just remember to keep to those proportions you can scale to larger batches with no problem.

Basic Fermented Hot Sauce Easy, 15 minutes prep, 7 days ferment, makes about 1-½ pints of hot sauce

Ingredients

1 pint ripe hot peppers chopped or sliced (I like the cayenne varieties)

1 pint filtered room temperature water

1 tablespoon (non-iodized) salt

Instructions

Make the brine by mix the water and salt until the salt is dissolved

Place the hot peppers in an empty quart-sized jar

Add the brine to the jar and stir to remove air pockets

Cover the jar loosely and put in a cool place out of sunlight

Stir every so often to prevent white mold from forming on the surface (if it does appear, just scrape it off with a spoon)

In a few days the mixture should become cloudy and the pepper mixture should have a slightly sour aroma (this is the lacto doing its work).

On the 7th day of fermenting, pour your pepper mixture into a blender (or use a stick blender) and puree the mixture until smooth.

Transfer the sauce to clean bottles and cap.

The hot sauce is ready for use.

Because we haven’t stopped the fermentation by heating the sauce or adding a stabilizer like vinegar, this hot sauce will continue to ferment (though more slowly) in the bottle, gradually mellowing the sharp notes and changing the heat profile.

As long as you don’t open the bottle it should keep just fine at room temperature for several months. Once you do open the bottle, just keep it refrigerated.

Long Ferment Hot Sauce Easy, 3-6 months ferment, makes about 1 gallon of hot sauce

I make one batch of this hot sauce every year. I start it in mid-September and finish in mid-March which provides an extended period of fresh pepper additions followed by a long, slow fermentation period over the winter.

Because of the long fermentation, the heat profile on this moves it from an upfront peppery hit, to a lower, slower build with lots of spice, grass and vanilla flavors followed by a smooth, hot finish that really sets the sauce apart from others.

I use my favorite hot pepper (an accidental cayenne/thai cross from 20 years ago), picked fresh from the garden, but you can use whatever variety or varieties of hot peppers you like most.

Ingredients

Ripe hot peppers (you’re going to add about 4-6 ounces each week)

2 whole garlic cloves (peeled)

Filtered water

Non-iodized salt

2 seasoned hardwood staves (oak, hickory, maple, etc.), bark removed

1 cup white vinegar

Instructions

  Week 1: Place a handful (4-8 ounces) of whole peppers in a large, non-reactive container (I use a 1 gallon pickle jar). Add enough brine mixture (water and salt at the 1 cup to ½-tablespoon ratio) to cover your peppers. Cover the container loosely and place in a cool dark place.

Week 2: Scrape off any white mold that has formed on the surface and stir the mixture. Add a handful of fresh whole peppers and enough new brine to fully submerge the peppers. If the peppers float, use pickling weights (or a zipper baggy filled with water) to keep them submerged. Again, cover loosely and return the container to a cool dark place.

Week 3: Repeat the steps in week 2, but add two whole cloves of garlic as well.

Week 4: Repeat the steps in week 2. If it’s fermenting well, the mixture should be cloudy and yellowish.

Four weeks of fresh pepper additions has fermentation going well

Week 5-11: Repeat steps in week 2 for as long as you have fresh peppers to add. Cold weather usually kills mine off in late Autumn, so I can add fresh peppers until mid-December. If your season is shorter, just skip to the next step (week 12).

Week 12: Scrape any mold from the surface of the pepper mixture and stir thoroughly. Add your two hardwood staves to the mixture, making sure they’re fully submerged. Return to the cool, dark place.

Toasted oak ready to be added to the pepper mixture

Hot Pepper sauce with oak wood added and ready to return to aging.

Week 13-24: Now we’re just going to let the mixture continue to ferment and age. Each week take the mixture out, scrape off any mold and stir before returning to the cool, dark place.

Week 24: Let’s bottle!

Pour your pepper mixture into a large bowl or pot.

Fermented Peppers in the pot (click to watch)

Remove the hardwood staves from your pepper mixture and use blender to puree it into a semi-smooth sauce.

Using a stick blender to puree the peppers

Place a colander on a large, non-aluminum, pot and pour the pepper slurry through the colander to filter out the seeds, stems, and pepper pulp.

Straining the pepper pulp and seeds through a colander

Pepper pulp after straining through a colander

Add 1 cup of white vinegar to the pot of sauce and slowly heat and stir it until it begins to boil. Reduce the heat and allow the sauce to simmer for 10 minutes (we’re stabilizing the sauce so it stop fermenting).

Bringing the hot sauce to a boil

Pour your hot sauce into clean, hot jars and seal. (I like to use 5 ounce bottles you can get on Amazon pretty cheap.)

Allow the bottles of hot sauce to cool, then place them in a cool dark place to rest for a couple more days before enjoying.

Batch 19 of Sage’s Fermented Hot Sauce

Because this hot sauce has been stabilized, it will keep for months (possibly years) at room temperature even after the bottle has been opened—no need to refrigerate to prevent fermentation from starting again.

Enjoy!

From the beginning

Check out these posts for the progress on the hot pepper sauce beginning with its start back in September 2019.

September 2019

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 1

Projects

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 2

Projects

October 2019

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 3

Projects

November 2019

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 4

Projects

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 5

Projects

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 6

Projects

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 7

Projects

December 2019

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 8

Photos, Projects

Hot Pepper Sauce Batch 19 – Entry 9

Projects

End of the Line for Hot Peppers 2019

Photos

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 10

Projects

January 2020

Hot Sauce Batch 19 – entry 11

Projects

12Next

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The Best Ice Cream Scoops

New Post has been published on http://cucinacarmela.com/the-best-ice-cream-scoops/

The Best Ice Cream Scoops

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[Photographs: Vicky Wasik]

We’ve all been there: The craving for ice cream hits, so you grab a spoon and start digging into a pint, hoping to transfer a mound of mint chocolate chip into your bowl. But the spoon bends, hurting your hand in the process, and the hard ice cream remains unmoved.

Let’s not be those people anymore. An ice cream scoop is sturdier than just about any other utensil in your kitchen. It’s also more comfortable to use, and it has a bowl designed to turn frozen dairy into picture-perfect spheres. Whether you buy pints from the supermarket or take the time to make your own at home, you’ll want to serve your ice cream from a scoop that helps you nail that iconic presentation.

We rounded up 17 models, ranging from around $5 to $35, and put them through scooping tests to find the shape and design that work best.

Our Favorite, at a Glance

The Best Ice Cream Scoop: Zeroll Original Ice Cream Scoop

The Zeroll ice cream scoop’s shape has changed little since it came out in 1935, and for good reason. Inside the comfortable one-piece design is a food-safe liquid that transfers heat from your hand to the bowl, making it easier to form tidy ice cream mounds. With no moving parts, the scoop should last for years—just be sure to clean it by hand, as it’s not dishwasher-safe. Because the Zeroll’s bowl and handle are symmetrical, it works equally well for righty and lefty users.

The Criteria: What We Look for in a Great Ice Cream Scoop

[top]

The bowl shapes on the scoops we tested ranged from oval to shovel-shaped to round. Testers found it easier to scoop from tools with oval bowls.

To justify the purchase of this unitasker, an ice cream scoop should dole out the dairy with far less effort than it takes using a common spoon. A good scoop won’t flex or break, even when plowing through the hardest pint. The bowl’s design should cut through the ice cream easily and curl it into a pleasing ball as you finish the scooping motion. The goal isn’t just to get the ice cream out—you can do that with a butter knife, or by jamming your face into the pint—but to do so with relative ease, and to mold it into a nice shape for your Instagram-worthy three-scoop sundae. A scoop allows you to serve consistently sized portions, avoiding the mashup of ice cream shards and massive icebergs you get with a regular spoon. The bowl should release the payload without requiring an excessive amount of flicking, and it shouldn’t leave chunks of your ice cream clinging to it. Digging out ice cream can be hard work, so the handle has to be comfortable, too.

There are three popular styles of ice cream removal tools: the scoop, the disher, and the spade. While researching which models to test, we noticed a nearly universal preference for one-piece scoops, like our winner. Reviewers commonly complain that disher-style designs—distinguished by the metal sweeper bar that clears the ice cream out of the inside of the bowl—are strenuous to use, and that the mechanical parts can become hard to move over time. They’re also hand-specific, so lefties have a hard time using scoops designed for righties. Meanwhile, spades usually won’t break down, but they have wide, flat ends that make them impractical when you’re scooping from narrow pints. They’re a better choice if you work in a gelato shop, serving from big tubs of soft ice cream. While we tested some dishers and spades, we focused on scoops.

The bowl shapes we tested ranged from round to oval to ones that look like a shovel. Overall, we found that oval bowls did a better job of curling the ice cream onto itself. There were some round-bowl models that formed nice scoops, but they were uncomfortable to use because their wide heads created more resistance as you dug into the ice cream. The handles on these tools can be solid or hollow; some are covered in grippy rubber. Our winning model is made of hollow, conductive aluminum and filled with a liquid that helps warm the bowl, which makes it easier to scoop hard ice cream. Testers also gravitated toward lightweight aluminum tools over the heavier-duty solid stainless steel models.

To select specific models to test, we cross-referenced reviews on Amazon, America’s Test Kitchen (subscription required), Consumer Reports (subscription required), The Wirecutter, Food & Wine, The Kitchn, and Epicurious.

The Testing

[top]

Scooping Ice Cream

Our favorite ice cream scoop has a comfortable, round handle.

A good ice cream scoop makes it easier to form rounded mounds from a variety of frozen desserts in a range of containers. We tested with pints of “super-premium” chunky ice creams, like Ben & Jerry’s Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough and Häagen-Dazs’s Rocky Road, as well as one-and-a-half-quart tubs of smoother, “premium” Turkey Hill French Vanilla and Friendly’s Chocolate Almond Chip. We also scooped from pint-sized containers of Ciao Bella’s Blood Orange Sorbetto.

These ice creams offered a range of textures and densities for our scooping tests. “Super-premium” ice creams feel firmer out of the freezer than other brands because they’re denser. The density is largely determined by “overrun,” which is ice cream industry lingo for the amount of air incorporated into the product during churning. Higher overrun means more air is trapped in the ice cream, making it easier to scoop and portion. “Super-premium ice cream is around 20 to 30% overrun, while premium brands are around 80 to 100%,” says Professor Robert Roberts, head of the food science department at Penn State University.

We lined up four testers, a mix of righties and lefties, with varying hand sizes and strengths. Testers scooped two or three times from containers of ice cream using the tools, emptying the portions into pint containers or onto sugar cones. As testers evaluated the scoops, we recorded their observations on the shape of the ice cream portion, how comfortable the handle was, and how easily the scoop released the ice cream.

The one-piece scoops with oval bowls performed the best and were the easiest to use. Testers preferred the simple design to models that released the ice cream mechanically using a sweeper bar or lever. Many of the scoops had an ambidextrous handle that was comfortable for both righty and lefty testers; in the end, we found that an unadorned, round shaft was the most pleasant to use.

Uniformity of the Scoop

An oval bowl encourages the ice cream to curl in on itself, forming a nice round ball.

A scoop should be comfortable to use, of course, but it should also create round balls of ice cream. To test how well each model shaped ice cream, we scooped from a range of containers and awarded points to models that produced round orbs.

Testers had an easier time forming balls of ice cream using scoops with oval bowls, like our winning Zeroll. As mentioned earlier, the oval shape encourages the dairy to curl in on itself as you scrape across the ice cream. Shovel-shaped heads didn’t do nearly as well, requiring more effort to pack the ice cream into a ball. The disher-style scoops had round bowls that formed pleasant spheres, but the sweeper bar often left chunks of ice cream behind in the scoop, and some of the tools had uncomfortable handles. One model we tested, the Scoop That II, has a round head that forms nice spheres and a comfortable handle, but, with a big bowl of just over two inches wide, digging and pulling it across hard ice cream was strenuous.

We also set the scoops onto standard sugar cones to see if any of the models produced portions that were too large or small. Most of the scoops turned out a portion that was about the same size as the cone’s opening, or slightly larger. Nearly all of the scoops we tested had bowls that produced a two- to three-ounce portion, which is about the right size for a standard serving of ice cream in two or three scoops. Many pro-style scoops, like the Zeroll and disher scoops, have color-coded handles with numbers stamped on them indicating the size of the portion they yield. That number in turn indicates how many portions the tool can make from a quart or gallon of ice cream, which can range from 60 small orbs to 20 massive balls. (Importantly, though, the number on the handle is not equivalent to the number of portions the scoop can get out of a quart or gallon.) Our winning Zeroll is a #20 scoop, which means it gets 40 portions from a gallon of ice cream.

Ease of Release

A perfect scoop of ice cream can be ruined by a bowl that doesn’t release cleanly. Testers noted how easily each scoop dropped the ice cream into an empty quart container.

The better models let go of the ice cream quickly, without leaving much behind in the bowl and without requiring excessive shaking. Our winning Zeroll didn’t take much effort to drop the ice cream and wasn’t noticeably grippier than the company’s nonstick-coated model. The disher-style and shovel-shaped scoops left more ice cream behind than the tools with oval bowls, which released without much fuss.

Handle Shape and Material

Digging out ice cream, especially that first scoop from a rock-hard pint, isn’t always pretty. You’re less likely to notice the difficulty if the handle is robust and comfortable. The handles on our test models ranged from bare metal to hard plastic to rubbery grips surrounding solid metal. Both lefty and righty testers used the scoops and scored them on comfort.

Testers found rubber handles comfortable, but, oddly enough, every model with a rubber handle also had a shovel-shaped bowl, which is harder to use. The most expensive model we tested, the Midnight Scoop, has a solid stainless steel body that’s hefty and balanced—unfortunately, it’s too easy to push the ice cream, rather than scoop and round it. Our winner sports a smooth handle that’s about three and a half inches in circumference, which was comfortable for most of the testers. The Good Cook model has a bowl that splits apart when you release the handles; while it formed nice balls of ice cream and released them easily, testers didn’t like having to squeeze the handles closed while scooping hard ice cream. Our testers complained about handle comfort with disher-style scoops, too.

How We Chose Our Winner

[top]

While all the models we tested will get your favorite flavor out of a container and onto a cone, our winning scoop makes it easier to serve the hardest, chunkiest ice cream without straining your wrist.

The Best Ice Cream Scoop: Zeroll Original Ice Cream Scoop

[top]

The Zeroll is a nearly indestructible classic that sees heavy use in ice cream shops. With little effort, the bowl’s oval shape curls ice cream into a ball, and the neat orbs roll out of the scoop easily without much shaking. The one-piece, lightweight aluminum design includes a handle filled with a food-safe mineral oil that helps transfer heat from your hand to the bowl, making it easier to cut through frozen ice cream. During testing, the models that featured the same design generally tended to make scooping easier.

To test the heat-transfer claims, we submerged the head of the Zeroll, and another model with the same design feature, into a bath of salt and ice that was -5°F (-21°C). After letting them chill for five minutes, we yanked them out, taped thermocouples to the centers of the bowls, and held them for five minutes while recording the temperatures. The test showed that the bowls on both scoops warmed up to around 73°F (23°C), which was warmer than the ambient room temperature at the time of the test. While you have to hold the scoop for a minute or so for the heat to kick in, the warmer bowl, combined with the narrow, oval shape, makes it easier to melt a path through the ice cream.

Most of the Amazon complaints about the Zeroll come from people who washed the scoop in the dishwasher. The manufacturer suggests hand-washing because the aluminum can react with the high heat and chemical detergent in a dishwasher, which can lead to discoloration or pitting (as it would with an aluminum baking sheet). Instead, clean it by hand with a mild soap and let it dry, and it should last years. Both lefty and righty testers commented that the Zeroll’s plain shaft was comfortable and balanced.

The Competition

[top]

A few quick notes on the other scoops we tested:

The Zeroll nonstick-coated model is slightly more expensive than our winner, and, while it scoops just as well, we don’t think it releases the ice cream with noticeably more ease. After a few days of use and washing in the sink with the rest of the models, the handle had a few nicks in the finish, which doesn’t look great.

The spade on the Zeroll Tubmate is two and five-eighths inches wide, making it difficult to work with in smaller, pint-sized containers.

The New Star scoop is a copy of our winning Zeroll’s design, and its handle is also filled with a liquid that transfers heat from your hand to the scoop. (The manufacturer would not identify the liquid.) It ranked just behind the Zeroll in our tests, but we think our winner is a better scoop, though it costs a little more.

The Scoop That II Warming Ice Cream Scoop was the best-performing round-bowl scoop we tested. It also features a liquid in the handle that helps warm the bowl (though, again, the manufacturer wouldn’t provide specifics). We liked the sharp cutting edge around the bowl, which made it easy to form balls of softer ice cream. But with really hard ice cream, it’s hard to dig the large head—which is more than two inches wide—into the carton.

The OXO Good Grips Solid Stainless Steel Ice Cream Scoop and the SUMO are nearly identical, with the same robust build, shovel-like bowl, and comfy grip, but both are plagued by the same issue: They’re simply too heavy. Testers also had a hard time getting the ice cream to curl into a pleasing ball.

Another OXO model, the Steel, has an almost perfectly round bowl with a lever that ejects the scoop. The ice cream sometimes stuck to the lever, and, with a bowl that’s more than two inches wide, scooping hard, “super-premium” brands was challenging.

The Good Cook Smart Scoop releases ice cream very easily, thanks to the nonstick coating and a bowl that separates into two halves. But the innovative design forces you to squeeze the handles closed while scooping, which is uncomfortable with hard ice cream.

Another model from Good Cook, the Twister, requires turning your wrist as you dig down into the ice cream. During testing, it was difficult to form a true ball of ice cream, and the twisting motion is awkward.

The pricey Midnight Scoop looks like a piece of modern sculpture. To use it, you push with the palm of your hand, rather than pulling, like with a traditional scoop. There’s a bit of a learning curve to use it correctly; for us, it pushed the ice cream like a bulldozer, never really scooping it. This ergonomic model also needs a wide-open area to work in, so, if you buy ice cream in narrow pint or quart containers, this probably isn’t the right tool for you.

The Wilton scoop looks like a hammerhead shark, with wings that work well at getting into every area inside a container of ice cream. It’s comfortable, with a nice weight, but it doesn’t do well at forming balls of ice cream.

The design and feel of the Norpro is very similar to that of our winner, but the oval bowl tapers as it nears the handle. That small change results in a scoop of ice cream that looks more like a narrow disk than a round mound.

The Solula is Amazon’s best-selling disher-style scoop as of the time of testing. While it’s well built, ice cream clings to the bowl, and the #40-size scoop we tested is too small, making portions that fell into the depths of a sugar cone.

Another Amazon top seller, the KitchenAid has a narrow bowl that easily works between the ice cream and the container, but it forms more of an egg-shaped scoop, and many users complained about the chrome finish pitting and flaking off.

The dimples on the bowl of the Joseph Joseph help release the ice cream easily, but the white collar, which is designed to catch runny drips as the scoop sits up on end, makes it harder to pull the tool tight against the side of the container and form a ball.

The nice round scoops that came out of the Vollrath disher were about one and three-quarters inches in diameter, which was a bit too small for a sugar cone. But the real flaw was the thumb-actuated sweeper, which was uncomfortable to squeeze, even for testers with large hands.

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The Best Ice Cream Scoops

New Post has been published on http://healthy-cook.com/the-best-ice-cream-scoops/

The Best Ice Cream Scoops

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[Photographs: Vicky Wasik]

We’ve all been there: The craving for ice cream hits, so you grab a spoon and start digging into a pint, hoping to transfer a mound of mint chocolate chip into your bowl. But the spoon bends, hurting your hand in the process, and the hard ice cream remains unmoved.

Let’s not be those people anymore. An ice cream scoop is sturdier than just about any other utensil in your kitchen. It’s also more comfortable to use, and it has a bowl designed to turn frozen dairy into picture-perfect spheres. Whether you buy pints from the supermarket or take the time to make your own at home, you’ll want to serve your ice cream from a scoop that helps you nail that iconic presentation.

We rounded up 17 models, ranging from around $5 to $35, and put them through scooping tests to find the shape and design that work best.

Our Favorite, at a Glance

The Best Ice Cream Scoop: Zeroll Original Ice Cream Scoop

The Zeroll ice cream scoop’s shape has changed little since it came out in 1935, and for good reason. Inside the comfortable one-piece design is a food-safe liquid that transfers heat from your hand to the bowl, making it easier to form tidy ice cream mounds. With no moving parts, the scoop should last for years—just be sure to clean it by hand, as it’s not dishwasher-safe. Because the Zeroll’s bowl and handle are symmetrical, it works equally well for righty and lefty users.

The Criteria: What We Look for in a Great Ice Cream Scoop

[top]

The bowl shapes on the scoops we tested ranged from oval to shovel-shaped to round. Testers found it easier to scoop from tools with oval bowls.

To justify the purchase of this unitasker, an ice cream scoop should dole out the dairy with far less effort than it takes using a common spoon. A good scoop won’t flex or break, even when plowing through the hardest pint. The bowl’s design should cut through the ice cream easily and curl it into a pleasing ball as you finish the scooping motion. The goal isn’t just to get the ice cream out—you can do that with a butter knife, or by jamming your face into the pint—but to do so with relative ease, and to mold it into a nice shape for your Instagram-worthy three-scoop sundae. A scoop allows you to serve consistently sized portions, avoiding the mashup of ice cream shards and massive icebergs you get with a regular spoon. The bowl should release the payload without requiring an excessive amount of flicking, and it shouldn’t leave chunks of your ice cream clinging to it. Digging out ice cream can be hard work, so the handle has to be comfortable, too.

There are three popular styles of ice cream removal tools: the scoop, the disher, and the spade. While researching which models to test, we noticed a nearly universal preference for one-piece scoops, like our winner. Reviewers commonly complain that disher-style designs—distinguished by the metal sweeper bar that clears the ice cream out of the inside of the bowl—are strenuous to use, and that the mechanical parts can become hard to move over time. They’re also hand-specific, so lefties have a hard time using scoops designed for righties. Meanwhile, spades usually won’t break down, but they have wide, flat ends that make them impractical when you’re scooping from narrow pints. They’re a better choice if you work in a gelato shop, serving from big tubs of soft ice cream. While we tested some dishers and spades, we focused on scoops.

The bowl shapes we tested ranged from round to oval to ones that look like a shovel. Overall, we found that oval bowls did a better job of curling the ice cream onto itself. There were some round-bowl models that formed nice scoops, but they were uncomfortable to use because their wide heads created more resistance as you dug into the ice cream. The handles on these tools can be solid or hollow; some are covered in grippy rubber. Our winning model is made of hollow, conductive aluminum and filled with a liquid that helps warm the bowl, which makes it easier to scoop hard ice cream. Testers also gravitated toward lightweight aluminum tools over the heavier-duty solid stainless steel models.

To select specific models to test, we cross-referenced reviews on Amazon, America’s Test Kitchen (subscription required), Consumer Reports (subscription required), The Wirecutter, Food & Wine, The Kitchn, and Epicurious.

The Testing

[top]

Scooping Ice Cream

Our favorite ice cream scoop has a comfortable, round handle.

A good ice cream scoop makes it easier to form rounded mounds from a variety of frozen desserts in a range of containers. We tested with pints of “super-premium” chunky ice creams, like Ben & Jerry’s Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough and Häagen-Dazs’s Rocky Road, as well as one-and-a-half-quart tubs of smoother, “premium” Turkey Hill French Vanilla and Friendly’s Chocolate Almond Chip. We also scooped from pint-sized containers of Ciao Bella’s Blood Orange Sorbetto.

These ice creams offered a range of textures and densities for our scooping tests. “Super-premium” ice creams feel firmer out of the freezer than other brands because they’re denser. The density is largely determined by “overrun,” which is ice cream industry lingo for the amount of air incorporated into the product during churning. Higher overrun means more air is trapped in the ice cream, making it easier to scoop and portion. “Super-premium ice cream is around 20 to 30% overrun, while premium brands are around 80 to 100%,” says Professor Robert Roberts, head of the food science department at Penn State University.

We lined up four testers, a mix of righties and lefties, with varying hand sizes and strengths. Testers scooped two or three times from containers of ice cream using the tools, emptying the portions into pint containers or onto sugar cones. As testers evaluated the scoops, we recorded their observations on the shape of the ice cream portion, how comfortable the handle was, and how easily the scoop released the ice cream.

The one-piece scoops with oval bowls performed the best and were the easiest to use. Testers preferred the simple design to models that released the ice cream mechanically using a sweeper bar or lever. Many of the scoops had an ambidextrous handle that was comfortable for both righty and lefty testers; in the end, we found that an unadorned, round shaft was the most pleasant to use.

Uniformity of the Scoop

An oval bowl encourages the ice cream to curl in on itself, forming a nice round ball.

A scoop should be comfortable to use, of course, but it should also create round balls of ice cream. To test how well each model shaped ice cream, we scooped from a range of containers and awarded points to models that produced round orbs.

Testers had an easier time forming balls of ice cream using scoops with oval bowls, like our winning Zeroll. As mentioned earlier, the oval shape encourages the dairy to curl in on itself as you scrape across the ice cream. Shovel-shaped heads didn’t do nearly as well, requiring more effort to pack the ice cream into a ball. The disher-style scoops had round bowls that formed pleasant spheres, but the sweeper bar often left chunks of ice cream behind in the scoop, and some of the tools had uncomfortable handles. One model we tested, the Scoop That II, has a round head that forms nice spheres and a comfortable handle, but, with a big bowl of just over two inches wide, digging and pulling it across hard ice cream was strenuous.

We also set the scoops onto standard sugar cones to see if any of the models produced portions that were too large or small. Most of the scoops turned out a portion that was about the same size as the cone’s opening, or slightly larger. Nearly all of the scoops we tested had bowls that produced a two- to three-ounce portion, which is about the right size for a standard serving of ice cream in two or three scoops. Many pro-style scoops, like the Zeroll and disher scoops, have color-coded handles with numbers stamped on them indicating the size of the portion they yield. That number in turn indicates how many portions the tool can make from a quart or gallon of ice cream, which can range from 60 small orbs to 20 massive balls. (Importantly, though, the number on the handle is not equivalent to the number of portions the scoop can get out of a quart or gallon.) Our winning Zeroll is a #20 scoop, which means it gets 40 portions from a gallon of ice cream.

Ease of Release

A perfect scoop of ice cream can be ruined by a bowl that doesn’t release cleanly. Testers noted how easily each scoop dropped the ice cream into an empty quart container.

The better models let go of the ice cream quickly, without leaving much behind in the bowl and without requiring excessive shaking. Our winning Zeroll didn’t take much effort to drop the ice cream and wasn’t noticeably grippier than the company’s nonstick-coated model. The disher-style and shovel-shaped scoops left more ice cream behind than the tools with oval bowls, which released without much fuss.

Handle Shape and Material

Digging out ice cream, especially that first scoop from a rock-hard pint, isn’t always pretty. You’re less likely to notice the difficulty if the handle is robust and comfortable. The handles on our test models ranged from bare metal to hard plastic to rubbery grips surrounding solid metal. Both lefty and righty testers used the scoops and scored them on comfort.

Testers found rubber handles comfortable, but, oddly enough, every model with a rubber handle also had a shovel-shaped bowl, which is harder to use. The most expensive model we tested, the Midnight Scoop, has a solid stainless steel body that’s hefty and balanced—unfortunately, it’s too easy to push the ice cream, rather than scoop and round it. Our winner sports a smooth handle that’s about three and a half inches in circumference, which was comfortable for most of the testers. The Good Cook model has a bowl that splits apart when you release the handles; while it formed nice balls of ice cream and released them easily, testers didn’t like having to squeeze the handles closed while scooping hard ice cream. Our testers complained about handle comfort with disher-style scoops, too.

How We Chose Our Winner

[top]

While all the models we tested will get your favorite flavor out of a container and onto a cone, our winning scoop makes it easier to serve the hardest, chunkiest ice cream without straining your wrist.

The Best Ice Cream Scoop: Zeroll Original Ice Cream Scoop

[top]

The Zeroll is a nearly indestructible classic that sees heavy use in ice cream shops. With little effort, the bowl’s oval shape curls ice cream into a ball, and the neat orbs roll out of the scoop easily without much shaking. The one-piece, lightweight aluminum design includes a handle filled with a food-safe mineral oil that helps transfer heat from your hand to the bowl, making it easier to cut through frozen ice cream. During testing, the models that featured the same design generally tended to make scooping easier.

To test the heat-transfer claims, we submerged the head of the Zeroll, and another model with the same design feature, into a bath of salt and ice that was -5°F (-21°C). After letting them chill for five minutes, we yanked them out, taped thermocouples to the centers of the bowls, and held them for five minutes while recording the temperatures. The test showed that the bowls on both scoops warmed up to around 73°F (23°C), which was warmer than the ambient room temperature at the time of the test. While you have to hold the scoop for a minute or so for the heat to kick in, the warmer bowl, combined with the narrow, oval shape, makes it easier to melt a path through the ice cream.

Most of the Amazon complaints about the Zeroll come from people who washed the scoop in the dishwasher. The manufacturer suggests hand-washing because the aluminum can react with the high heat and chemical detergent in a dishwasher, which can lead to discoloration or pitting (as it would with an aluminum baking sheet). Instead, clean it by hand with a mild soap and let it dry, and it should last years. Both lefty and righty testers commented that the Zeroll’s plain shaft was comfortable and balanced.

The Competition

[top]

A few quick notes on the other scoops we tested:

The Zeroll nonstick-coated model is slightly more expensive than our winner, and, while it scoops just as well, we don’t think it releases the ice cream with noticeably more ease. After a few days of use and washing in the sink with the rest of the models, the handle had a few nicks in the finish, which doesn’t look great.

The spade on the Zeroll Tubmate is two and five-eighths inches wide, making it difficult to work with in smaller, pint-sized containers.

The New Star scoop is a copy of our winning Zeroll’s design, and its handle is also filled with a liquid that transfers heat from your hand to the scoop. (The manufacturer would not identify the liquid.) It ranked just behind the Zeroll in our tests, but we think our winner is a better scoop, though it costs a little more.

The Scoop That II Warming Ice Cream Scoop was the best-performing round-bowl scoop we tested. It also features a liquid in the handle that helps warm the bowl (though, again, the manufacturer wouldn’t provide specifics). We liked the sharp cutting edge around the bowl, which made it easy to form balls of softer ice cream. But with really hard ice cream, it’s hard to dig the large head—which is more than two inches wide—into the carton.

The OXO Good Grips Solid Stainless Steel Ice Cream Scoop and the SUMO are nearly identical, with the same robust build, shovel-like bowl, and comfy grip, but both are plagued by the same issue: They’re simply too heavy. Testers also had a hard time getting the ice cream to curl into a pleasing ball.

Another OXO model, the Steel, has an almost perfectly round bowl with a lever that ejects the scoop. The ice cream sometimes stuck to the lever, and, with a bowl that’s more than two inches wide, scooping hard, “super-premium” brands was challenging.

The Good Cook Smart Scoop releases ice cream very easily, thanks to the nonstick coating and a bowl that separates into two halves. But the innovative design forces you to squeeze the handles closed while scooping, which is uncomfortable with hard ice cream.

Another model from Good Cook, the Twister, requires turning your wrist as you dig down into the ice cream. During testing, it was difficult to form a true ball of ice cream, and the twisting motion is awkward.

The pricey Midnight Scoop looks like a piece of modern sculpture. To use it, you push with the palm of your hand, rather than pulling, like with a traditional scoop. There’s a bit of a learning curve to use it correctly; for us, it pushed the ice cream like a bulldozer, never really scooping it. This ergonomic model also needs a wide-open area to work in, so, if you buy ice cream in narrow pint or quart containers, this probably isn’t the right tool for you.

The Wilton scoop looks like a hammerhead shark, with wings that work well at getting into every area inside a container of ice cream. It’s comfortable, with a nice weight, but it doesn’t do well at forming balls of ice cream.

The design and feel of the Norpro is very similar to that of our winner, but the oval bowl tapers as it nears the handle. That small change results in a scoop of ice cream that looks more like a narrow disk than a round mound.

The Solula is Amazon’s best-selling disher-style scoop as of the time of testing. While it’s well built, ice cream clings to the bowl, and the #40-size scoop we tested is too small, making portions that fell into the depths of a sugar cone.

Another Amazon top seller, the KitchenAid has a narrow bowl that easily works between the ice cream and the container, but it forms more of an egg-shaped scoop, and many users complained about the chrome finish pitting and flaking off.

The dimples on the bowl of the Joseph Joseph help release the ice cream easily, but the white collar, which is designed to catch runny drips as the scoop sits up on end, makes it harder to pull the tool tight against the side of the container and form a ball.

The nice round scoops that came out of the Vollrath disher were about one and three-quarters inches in diameter, which was a bit too small for a sugar cone. But the real flaw was the thumb-actuated sweeper, which was uncomfortable to squeeze, even for testers with large hands.

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[lauraboczkovski-blog1]

65 Reasons Why You Should Always Have A Bottle Of Hydrogen Peroxide At Home

65 reasons why you should always have a bottle of hydrogen peroxide at home -

Homemade medicine

Hydrogen peroxide is a germicidal regulator that is consisted of oxygen and water, which makes it the most secure ordinary sanitizer. It is thicker than water and has no color. It is most dependably used as a oxidizer, disinfectant, and bleaching agent. In any case, for no good reason this adaptable liquid has innumerable uses. Here you can read about 65 of them, so guarantee you take a gander at them all and get a holder of hydrogen peroxide as quickly as you can.

Note: Pure hydrogen peroxide can cause an explosion when it is warmed up to the point before it starts to boil This is why many people chose to get a diluted hydrogen peroxide at home, generally having 3-5% of the active chemical.

65 reasons why you should always have a bottle of hydrogen peroxide at home

Whiten Your Teeth

Most teeth whitening things contain as an active ingredient the hydrogen peroxide, and it acts by oxygenating the surface of the teeth. Brush the teeth with toothpaste and as needs be flush a mix of two teaspoons of water and a teaspoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide around the mouth. At whatever point done, wash the mouth and repeat this 3 times every week.

Light up Hair

Hydrogen peroxide is astonishingly more secure than other bleaching officials, so it is a safe natural way to bleach your hair.

Restore and Detox

In order to detox and rejuvenate your body in an all-principal course, prepare a bath with hydrogen peroxide and relax in it. Include one cup of 35% hydrogen peroxide in a tub of water and douse for around 30 minutes.

Stop Toothache Pain

Oil pulling with a solution of hydrogen peroxide and coconut oil is to a phenomenal degree realistic in empowering a toothache, as the antibacterial properties of these two fixings execute off living creatures that are the main culprits of the agony.

Similar content:

65 reasons why you should always have a bottle of hydrogen peroxide at home:

7 FACTS ABOUT COFFEE THAT WILL MAKE YOU WANT TO GRAB YOURSELF A CUP

WHAT HAPPENS WITH YOUR BODY WHEN YOU STOP SMOKING?

A PEEL OF LEMON CAN TAKE AWAY JOINT ACHE CEASELESSLY

Discard Boils

Put in a measure of 35% hydrogen peroxide in a shower and sprinkle for quite a while to detoxify the body and wipe out air pockets.

Get Wax Out Of Your Ear

Use two drops of hydrogen peroxide to put in each ear, trailed by a couple of drops of olive oil. Sit tight for a couple of minutes before draining the solution.

Get Relief From Ear Infections

To reduce the negative effects and wipe out the disease, use around eight drops of hydrogen peroxide to the affected ear.

Discard Foot Fungus

Treat the foot fungus with a mixture of equal measures of 3% hydrogen peroxide and water.

Clean a Toothbrush

In order to eliminate the bacteria that lives in the bathroom retain the toothbrush in hydrogen peroxide.

Control The Growth Of Fungus In Aquariums

This is an unbelievable way to deal with oversee use hydrogen peroxide. Regardless, hold fast to the headings that can be found elsewhere with the objective that you don’t hurt your fish.

Make An Emetic For Household Pets

Given that hydrogen peroxide can prompt vomiting, it works brilliantly when your pet has swallowed something that ought to be heaved or has on an exceptionally essential level eaten something they shouldn’t have.

Make An All-Purpose Cleaner

Pour some diluted hydrogen peroxide in a sprinkle bottle with and use it as an alternative to general cleaners that as consistently as possible cost a little fortune.

Make Laundry Whiter

Circuit a measure of hydrogen peroxide to the wash and sprinkle for around thirty minutes to this point wash to cleanse the yellowy stains and make your clothes of dress more white.

Discard Undesirable Odors

In order to eliminate bad odors, make a mixture of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide and soak in the fabric.

Wash down Your Lunchbox

To clear the gathered microorganisms in your lunchbox, basically sprinkle it with a crippled outline of hydrogen peroxide and leave it to act for several minutes as of now wiping it away.

Refresh The Germination Of Seeds

Use some hydrogen peroxide and soak in the seeds prior planting them remembering the ultimate objective to clear powerful spores that may hinder their germination.

Clean Tile Surfaces Better

Tile surfaces hoard dirt and stains after some time, which are dependably difficult to clean. Luckily sprinkling hydrogen peroxide onto tiles is a sensible way to deal with oversee discard them.

Make Grout Whiter

Make a paste using a 35% hydrogen peroxide with white flour. Use the paste to cover the grout and leave it work overnight. Flush it off in the morning!

Eliminate Mold

A bit of the best prospering workplaces on the planet guarantee using 3% hydrogen peroxide to clear mold. Basically use some solution to spray on the mold and let it act for a couple of minutes as of now scouring it using a wipe.

Clean Kitchen And Bathroom Counter

To clean and sterilize the kitchen and can edges, on an extremely essential level sprinkle some debilitated hydrogen peroxide onto them and leave it for two or three minutes starting at before cleaning it off.

Oust Collar Stain

Sprinkle the neck area with a mixture prepared with one segment liquid substance and two areas hydrogen peroxide. Empower it to work for two or three minutes and after that wash it off.

Easily Kill Mites

Sprinkle the vermin with hydrogen peroxide to discard parasites capability. Repeat the framework several times, if there is a need for.

Clean Your Mirror Exceptionally Well

Give the mirrors hydrogen peroxide and wipe away with an old newspaper to make them particularly mind blowing.

Clean Sponges And Dishrags

Make a solution of two caps hydrogen peroxide and high temp water and put in the dishrags and sponges for 30 minutes. This prompt trap helps clean and sanitize the super foul wipes and dishrags.

Wash Fruits

Are you aware that dirt and wax are used to cover the fruits and veggies? To clean them, basically give them hydrogen peroxide and after that flush them off with clean water.

Oust Stubborn Foods

Make a paste using baking soda and hydrogen peroxide that should be cleaned onto the sustenances spots. Leave it to act for a couple of minutes as of now cleaning it with sponge and warm water.

Brighten Curtains And Table Cloth

Use some hydrogen peroxide or put in a measure of hydrogen peroxide to your wash to wipe down the yellowy pieces.

Regard A Fresher Salad

In order to prolong the freshness of the salad more, join a tablespoon of food grate hydrogen peroxide to an expansive part of some water. By then, shower the mix onto the serving of blended greens.

Discard Canker sores

Flush a capful of hydrogen peroxide around your mouth for around ten minutes. This sensible trap discards the steadfast aggravate.

Treat Animal Wounds

Animal injuries can be managed a vague course from human wounds. On an extremely fundamental level touch the hydrogen peroxide unmistakably onto the affected range.

De-mold Plants

In order to de-mold your plants, in a general sense shower them down with 3% hydrogen peroxide.

Discard Viruses

Using 3 drops of 3% hydrogen peroxide in the ear decreases the length of cold or flu as it is stated by experts. Leave it for around 10 minutes and then leave it to drain.

Discard Airborne Germs

Make a mixture with a gallon of water and some 3% hydrogen peroxide and use a humidifier to put in the mixture. Empower it to continue running until the point that the mix is completely spent. The disinfectant and antibacterial properties of the mixture will discard airborne germs.

Bleach Finger and Toe Nails

Often when we clean the nail polish our nails looks a little bit discolored. To light up them and turn the standard shading, soak the nails in a bowl stacked with 3% hydrogen peroxide for around 5 minutes. Do this for a few days or until the minute that the moment that you get the wanted results.

Make Hair Highlights

To make sun-lit up hair highlights, basically shower some hydrogen peroxide on wet hair and leave it to act for around 15 minutes before washing your hair.

Get rid of Stuffy Sinuses

You can prepare a nasal solution using hydrogen peroxide in order to unclog your sinuses. Mix some water with a little of hydrogen peroxide. Use a more concentrated solution in case they are very stuffed.

Clean Wounds

Hydrogen peroxide is very helpful in cleaning little wounds. Use a little amount of 3% solution, which works commendably a mind blowing bit of the time.

Take out Acne

Make a solution of two tablespoons of apple cider vinegar and two tablespoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide. Use a cotton pad to soak it in it and apply onto the affected run. It is recommended not to use the same pad for the entire face in order to hinder transference of bacteria.

Mollify Calluses and Corns

Make a mixture of comparable measures of hydrogen peroxide and apple cider vinegar and soak in the corns and calluses.

Keep The Dreaded Swimmer’s Ear

This ear issue can be to an extraordinary degree troublesome! To reject it, use several drops of the moisture of hydrogen peroxide and smashed apple vinegar and, immediately in the wake of swimming.

Eliminate Skin Mites

Sprinkle 3% hydrogen peroxide onto the influenced skin, underscoring the framework a few times following two or three minutes.

Impact A Marinade For Poultry, To fish Or Meat

Put the meat inside a goulash which has equal measures of hydrogen peroxide and water. Endeavor to wash the meats prior cooking.

Remove Stubborn Stains From Clothing

Blood is considered as the worst stains for cleaning. Luckily pouring hydrogen peroxide onto the stain and empowering it to work for a couple of minutes sooner washing it off is to a psyche boggling degree suitable in discarding it.

Discard Algae

Include 60 ml of hydrogen peroxide for each 66 gallons of water. Solidify the approach using a dropper , over a cross of around 5 minutes.

Use As A Dishwasher Detergent

You can make the dishwasher detergent to last more by mixing some hydrogen peroxide with it.

Clean Your Contact Lenses

Retain the contacts a disabled methodology of hydrogen peroxide during the night to clean them and clear the gathered protein.

Remove Organic Stains

Mix one amount dish cleaner with two amounts of hydrogen peroxide and use the mixture for customary stains like wine, coffee, and blood. Before long, as hydrogen peroxide goes about as clouding proficient, it is not recommended for darker surfaces.

Clean Carpets And Rugs

Use a diluted mixture to spray on the rug and clean regularly. It shows best results on light covers as it can darken darker-shaded ones.

Keep Your Shopping Bags Fresh

Showering the shopping sacks with some hydrogen peroxide and empowering it to labor for a few minutes cleans the unsanitary pack and clear loathsome scents.

Absolutely Clean Your Humidifier

Join a little bit of hydrogen peroxide and a gallon of water to the humidifier remembering the true objective to clean it and clear mildew and mold. Along these lines, the humidifier will run faultlessly and effectively.

Clean The Toilet

Use ½ a cup of hydrogen peroxide into the toilet bowl and let it labor for thirty minutes beforehand scouring. This quick trap cleans the toilet and removes any stains.

Discard Soap Scum In The Sink Or Bath Tub

To discard substance rottenness exuberant, sprinkle the surface with 35% hydrogen peroxide and let it act for thirty minutes. Once discharged, clean it away and wash.

Clean Glass Better

Use hydrogen peroxide to discharge grime and cleanse the dirt more satisfactorily by sprinkling the glass surface with it. It is endorsed to wipe the surface using a newspaper.

Oust Stains From Stone Countertops

Make a paste with some hydrogen peroxide with white flour, and apply it particularly onto the stain. Use plastic to cover it and leave it for the entire night . Clean it up in the morning.

Clear Wine Stains

Mix square with measures of hydrogen peroxide and liquid creation. By then, pour the outline on the stain and empty it using a spotless surface.

Upgrade Your Plant’s Root System

Strikingly, watering the plants with a mix consisted of one area hydrogen peroxide and 32 sections water updates the establishments of the plants.

Impact Short Work Of Armpit To sweat

Make a solution of two parts of hydrogen peroxide with one part in dish compound and use onto the stains. Sprinkle them for a couple of minutes and after that wash them off.

Clean Your Cutting Boards

Use some hydrogen peroxide to sprinkle the cutting boards after each utilization and surrender them like that for two or three minutes. After that wash them with clean water.

Clean Your Refrigerator

To clean your refrigerator totally, sprinkle it down with hydrogen peroxide and let it act for a couple of minutes. By then, wipe everything down using a clean fabric.

Clean Kid’s Toys

In order to clean your kid`s toys, sprinkle hydrogen peroxide onto them and wipe them down with a towel. You can also wash them in a mixture of hydrogen peroxide with water.

Draw out The Freshness Of Your Vegetables

Fill a sink stacked with cold water and include ¼ cup of hydrogen peroxide. Put in the vegetables in this solution for around thirty minutes ahead of time washing them. At whatever point done, pat dry with clean towel and put them in the cooler to drag out their freshness.

Join Your Enema Water

Join a tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide to 4 cups of water.

Pick up Power Of A Yeast Infection

Join two capfuls of hydrogen peroxide inside your douche one or two times every week.

[princessxalicia-blog]

65 Reasons Why You Should Always Have A Bottle Of Hydrogen Peroxide At Home

65 reasons why you should always have a bottle of hydrogen peroxide at home -

Homemade medicine

Hydrogen peroxide is a germicidal regulator that is consisted of oxygen and water, which makes it the most secure ordinary sanitizer. It is thicker than water and has no color. It is most dependably used as a oxidizer, disinfectant, and bleaching agent. In any case, for no good reason this adaptable liquid has innumerable uses. Here you can read about 65 of them, so guarantee you take a gander at them all and get a holder of hydrogen peroxide as quickly as you can.

Note: Pure hydrogen peroxide can cause an explosion when it is warmed up to the point before it starts to boil This is why many people chose to get a diluted hydrogen peroxide at home, generally having 3-5% of the active chemical.

65 reasons why you should always have a bottle of hydrogen peroxide at home

Whiten Your Teeth

Most teeth whitening things contain as an active ingredient the hydrogen peroxide, and it acts by oxygenating the surface of the teeth. Brush the teeth with toothpaste and as needs be flush a mix of two teaspoons of water and a teaspoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide around the mouth. At whatever point done, wash the mouth and repeat this 3 times every week.

Light up Hair

Hydrogen peroxide is astonishingly more secure than other bleaching officials, so it is a safe natural way to bleach your hair.

Restore and Detox

In order to detox and rejuvenate your body in an all-principal course, prepare a bath with hydrogen peroxide and relax in it. Include one cup of 35% hydrogen peroxide in a tub of water and douse for around 30 minutes.

Stop Toothache Pain

Oil pulling with a solution of hydrogen peroxide and coconut oil is to a phenomenal degree realistic in empowering a toothache, as the antibacterial properties of these two fixings execute off living creatures that are the main culprits of the agony.

Similar content:

65 reasons why you should always have a bottle of hydrogen peroxide at home:

7 FACTS ABOUT COFFEE THAT WILL MAKE YOU WANT TO GRAB YOURSELF A CUP

WHAT HAPPENS WITH YOUR BODY WHEN YOU STOP SMOKING?

A PEEL OF LEMON CAN TAKE AWAY JOINT ACHE CEASELESSLY

Discard Boils

Put in a measure of 35% hydrogen peroxide in a shower and sprinkle for quite a while to detoxify the body and wipe out air pockets.

Get Wax Out Of Your Ear

Use two drops of hydrogen peroxide to put in each ear, trailed by a couple of drops of olive oil. Sit tight for a couple of minutes before draining the solution.

Get Relief From Ear Infections

To reduce the negative effects and wipe out the disease, use around eight drops of hydrogen peroxide to the affected ear.

Discard Foot Fungus

Treat the foot fungus with a mixture of equal measures of 3% hydrogen peroxide and water.

Clean a Toothbrush

In order to eliminate the bacteria that lives in the bathroom retain the toothbrush in hydrogen peroxide.

Control The Growth Of Fungus In Aquariums

This is an unbelievable way to deal with oversee use hydrogen peroxide. Regardless, hold fast to the headings that can be found elsewhere with the objective that you don’t hurt your fish.

Make An Emetic For Household Pets

Given that hydrogen peroxide can prompt vomiting, it works brilliantly when your pet has swallowed something that ought to be heaved or has on an exceptionally essential level eaten something they shouldn’t have.

Make An All-Purpose Cleaner

Pour some diluted hydrogen peroxide in a sprinkle bottle with and use it as an alternative to general cleaners that as consistently as possible cost a little fortune.

Make Laundry Whiter

Circuit a measure of hydrogen peroxide to the wash and sprinkle for around thirty minutes to this point wash to cleanse the yellowy stains and make your clothes of dress more white.

Discard Undesirable Odors

In order to eliminate bad odors, make a mixture of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide and soak in the fabric.

Wash down Your Lunchbox

To clear the gathered microorganisms in your lunchbox, basically sprinkle it with a crippled outline of hydrogen peroxide and leave it to act for several minutes as of now wiping it away.

Refresh The Germination Of Seeds

Use some hydrogen peroxide and soak in the seeds prior planting them remembering the ultimate objective to clear powerful spores that may hinder their germination.

Clean Tile Surfaces Better

Tile surfaces hoard dirt and stains after some time, which are dependably difficult to clean. Luckily sprinkling hydrogen peroxide onto tiles is a sensible way to deal with oversee discard them.

Make Grout Whiter

Make a paste using a 35% hydrogen peroxide with white flour. Use the paste to cover the grout and leave it work overnight. Flush it off in the morning!

Eliminate Mold

A bit of the best prospering workplaces on the planet guarantee using 3% hydrogen peroxide to clear mold. Basically use some solution to spray on the mold and let it act for a couple of minutes as of now scouring it using a wipe.

Clean Kitchen And Bathroom Counter

To clean and sterilize the kitchen and can edges, on an extremely essential level sprinkle some debilitated hydrogen peroxide onto them and leave it for two or three minutes starting at before cleaning it off.

Oust Collar Stain

Sprinkle the neck area with a mixture prepared with one segment liquid substance and two areas hydrogen peroxide. Empower it to work for two or three minutes and after that wash it off.

Easily Kill Mites

Sprinkle the vermin with hydrogen peroxide to discard parasites capability. Repeat the framework several times, if there is a need for.

Clean Your Mirror Exceptionally Well

Give the mirrors hydrogen peroxide and wipe away with an old newspaper to make them particularly mind blowing.

Clean Sponges And Dishrags

Make a solution of two caps hydrogen peroxide and high temp water and put in the dishrags and sponges for 30 minutes. This prompt trap helps clean and sanitize the super foul wipes and dishrags.

Wash Fruits

Are you aware that dirt and wax are used to cover the fruits and veggies? To clean them, basically give them hydrogen peroxide and after that flush them off with clean water.

Oust Stubborn Foods

Make a paste using baking soda and hydrogen peroxide that should be cleaned onto the sustenances spots. Leave it to act for a couple of minutes as of now cleaning it with sponge and warm water.

Brighten Curtains And Table Cloth

Use some hydrogen peroxide or put in a measure of hydrogen peroxide to your wash to wipe down the yellowy pieces.

Regard A Fresher Salad

In order to prolong the freshness of the salad more, join a tablespoon of food grate hydrogen peroxide to an expansive part of some water. By then, shower the mix onto the serving of blended greens.

Discard Canker sores

Flush a capful of hydrogen peroxide around your mouth for around ten minutes. This sensible trap discards the steadfast aggravate.

Treat Animal Wounds

Animal injuries can be managed a vague course from human wounds. On an extremely fundamental level touch the hydrogen peroxide unmistakably onto the affected range.

De-mold Plants

In order to de-mold your plants, in a general sense shower them down with 3% hydrogen peroxide.

Discard Viruses

Using 3 drops of 3% hydrogen peroxide in the ear decreases the length of cold or flu as it is stated by experts. Leave it for around 10 minutes and then leave it to drain.

Discard Airborne Germs

Make a mixture with a gallon of water and some 3% hydrogen peroxide and use a humidifier to put in the mixture. Empower it to continue running until the point that the mix is completely spent. The disinfectant and antibacterial properties of the mixture will discard airborne germs.

Bleach Finger and Toe Nails

Often when we clean the nail polish our nails looks a little bit discolored. To light up them and turn the standard shading, soak the nails in a bowl stacked with 3% hydrogen peroxide for around 5 minutes. Do this for a few days or until the minute that the moment that you get the wanted results.

Make Hair Highlights

To make sun-lit up hair highlights, basically shower some hydrogen peroxide on wet hair and leave it to act for around 15 minutes before washing your hair.

Get rid of Stuffy Sinuses

You can prepare a nasal solution using hydrogen peroxide in order to unclog your sinuses. Mix some water with a little of hydrogen peroxide. Use a more concentrated solution in case they are very stuffed.

Clean Wounds

Hydrogen peroxide is very helpful in cleaning little wounds. Use a little amount of 3% solution, which works commendably a mind blowing bit of the time.

Take out Acne

Make a solution of two tablespoons of apple cider vinegar and two tablespoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide. Use a cotton pad to soak it in it and apply onto the affected run. It is recommended not to use the same pad for the entire face in order to hinder transference of bacteria.

Mollify Calluses and Corns

Make a mixture of comparable measures of hydrogen peroxide and apple cider vinegar and soak in the corns and calluses.

Keep The Dreaded Swimmer’s Ear

This ear issue can be to an extraordinary degree troublesome! To reject it, use several drops of the moisture of hydrogen peroxide and smashed apple vinegar and, immediately in the wake of swimming.

Eliminate Skin Mites

Sprinkle 3% hydrogen peroxide onto the influenced skin, underscoring the framework a few times following two or three minutes.

Impact A Marinade For Poultry, To fish Or Meat

Put the meat inside a goulash which has equal measures of hydrogen peroxide and water. Endeavor to wash the meats prior cooking.

Remove Stubborn Stains From Clothing

Blood is considered as the worst stains for cleaning. Luckily pouring hydrogen peroxide onto the stain and empowering it to work for a couple of minutes sooner washing it off is to a psyche boggling degree suitable in discarding it.

Discard Algae

Include 60 ml of hydrogen peroxide for each 66 gallons of water. Solidify the approach using a dropper , over a cross of around 5 minutes.

Use As A Dishwasher Detergent

You can make the dishwasher detergent to last more by mixing some hydrogen peroxide with it.

Clean Your Contact Lenses

Retain the contacts a disabled methodology of hydrogen peroxide during the night to clean them and clear the gathered protein.

Remove Organic Stains

Mix one amount dish cleaner with two amounts of hydrogen peroxide and use the mixture for customary stains like wine, coffee, and blood. Before long, as hydrogen peroxide goes about as clouding proficient, it is not recommended for darker surfaces.

Clean Carpets And Rugs

Use a diluted mixture to spray on the rug and clean regularly. It shows best results on light covers as it can darken darker-shaded ones.

Keep Your Shopping Bags Fresh

Showering the shopping sacks with some hydrogen peroxide and empowering it to labor for a few minutes cleans the unsanitary pack and clear loathsome scents.

Absolutely Clean Your Humidifier

Join a little bit of hydrogen peroxide and a gallon of water to the humidifier remembering the true objective to clean it and clear mildew and mold. Along these lines, the humidifier will run faultlessly and effectively.

Clean The Toilet

Use ½ a cup of hydrogen peroxide into the toilet bowl and let it labor for thirty minutes beforehand scouring. This quick trap cleans the toilet and removes any stains.

Discard Soap Scum In The Sink Or Bath Tub

To discard substance rottenness exuberant, sprinkle the surface with 35% hydrogen peroxide and let it act for thirty minutes. Once discharged, clean it away and wash.

Clean Glass Better

Use hydrogen peroxide to discharge grime and cleanse the dirt more satisfactorily by sprinkling the glass surface with it. It is endorsed to wipe the surface using a newspaper.

Oust Stains From Stone Countertops

Make a paste with some hydrogen peroxide with white flour, and apply it particularly onto the stain. Use plastic to cover it and leave it for the entire night . Clean it up in the morning.

Clear Wine Stains

Mix square with measures of hydrogen peroxide and liquid creation. By then, pour the outline on the stain and empty it using a spotless surface.

Upgrade Your Plant’s Root System

Strikingly, watering the plants with a mix consisted of one area hydrogen peroxide and 32 sections water updates the establishments of the plants.

Impact Short Work Of Armpit To sweat

Make a solution of two parts of hydrogen peroxide with one part in dish compound and use onto the stains. Sprinkle them for a couple of minutes and after that wash them off.

Clean Your Cutting Boards

Use some hydrogen peroxide to sprinkle the cutting boards after each utilization and surrender them like that for two or three minutes. After that wash them with clean water.

Clean Your Refrigerator

To clean your refrigerator totally, sprinkle it down with hydrogen peroxide and let it act for a couple of minutes. By then, wipe everything down using a clean fabric.

Clean Kid’s Toys

In order to clean your kid`s toys, sprinkle hydrogen peroxide onto them and wipe them down with a towel. You can also wash them in a mixture of hydrogen peroxide with water.

Draw out The Freshness Of Your Vegetables

Fill a sink stacked with cold water and include ¼ cup of hydrogen peroxide. Put in the vegetables in this solution for around thirty minutes ahead of time washing them. At whatever point done, pat dry with clean towel and put them in the cooler to drag out their freshness.

Join Your Enema Water

Join a tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide to 4 cups of water.

Pick up Power Of A Yeast Infection

Join two capfuls of hydrogen peroxide inside your douche one or two times every week.