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VOY: Caretaker (Part 2)
The Star Trek universe is a long road, so to keep things moving along home, I’ve decided to no longer split up 2-part episodes and films. This is the first of three posts that will wrap up Caretaker, Emissary, and ST: The Motion Picture.
Part two of Voyager’s pilot episode brings new excitement, new troubles, and new characters.
Are all Talaxians this… eccentric?
When we first meet Neelix, he’s scraping out a living as a junk trader, clad in a fur coat that appears to be made up of several different alien mammals, over a confusingly-patchwork shirt (or harness? Or space lederhosen??) with metallic gold accents. It’s an appropriately mottled look for his line of work, although it definitely looks like it smells weird.
Is that me or you, Mr. Vulcan?
However, we don’t get to spend much time with this outfit, as Janeway invites the Talaxian aboard, and Neelix is quick to take advantage of Voyager’s facilities – including the replicator. After asking Tuvok if it will make him a Starfleet uniform (“it most certainly will not”), we beam down to the Ocampan planet below to see that Neelix has chosen a suit made of old bus station upholstery.
At first, I thought this outfit was both too beige and too chaotic, but the more I look, the more I like it. It actually kind of works with his Talaxian mohawk and spots, and I love that the fabric is just as garish and patchwork-looking as his “junk collector” outfit.. Also, the overwhelming impression of beige may just be due to this planet’s extremely yellow lens filter atmosphere.
The colour palette is “waiting room neutral”.
The structure of the outfit is interesting, too. Chunky piping across the midsection creates some nice, futuristic asymmetry, and I love that it continues down the one sleeve in rings. Neelix goes on to knock it out of the park with a matching teal shirt (you can just see the collar peeking out above) and shoes.
This is a man who knows how to coordinate.
Next, it’s time for another new species in the Delta Quadrant: the Kazon! As we get a wide shot of the group of Kazon Ogla, we can immediately see a lot of cream and ochre tones, cut off sleeves, and a single hairstyle that everybody has to share.
And no girls allowed.
It’s actually an incredible number of unique-but-coordinated costumes. You immediately get the impression that these guys are a rowdy bunch who aren’t afraid to get their asymmetrical skirts dirty proving who has the most testosterone. As well, everybody looks great in warm earth tones.
I guess it’s not hard to shop when every single member of your species is an autumn.
Somebody needs to tell them all the belts and gloves are a bit much though.
We just like to feel secure, okay?
Kes also makes her debut in this scene, but she’s basically wearing a dirty potato sack, so we’ll skip ahead. Like her lover Neelix, she’s quick to accept the Voyager crew’s hospitality, and replicates a new set of duds the moment she’s on board. Interestingly, she opts for a very Kazon colour palette.
Now who’s asymmetrical??
It’s a killer look – layered, colourful, a little bit alien, but also cute. The one-shoulder bodycon tunic is sexy, but the neckline and legs are very modestly covered. Kes is basically Twiggy as a telepathic space elf. As a child watching Star Trek in the 90s, I remember noticing Jennifer Lien’s costumes as Kes more than anything else in the show, and I still aspire to this aesthetic.
I only noticed how gay I was later.
There’s also a lot of variation in textures here, between the crinkled summer cotton and contrasting velveteen, which we’ll soon see is the style of the Ocampa. What? Oh right! Our people are still missing! Back down to the planet we go.
The underground Ocampa lean toward earth tones – although, would they call them that? – befitting their simple, horticultural lifestyle. Like Kes, their outfits are layered and multi-textured.
The Caretaker provides everything we need. Linen, tweed, corduroy…
Unless you’re a bad guy, in which case you wear grey, unflattering robes and a scarf (poorly).
The Ocampan equivalent of sweats and a gym tee.
We also get a really good look at Chakotay’s Maquis outfit in this scene, which will sadly soon be replaced by a Starfleet uniform for good. It’s a shame, as it looks like someone spent a lot of time working on that leather vest, with its hand-stitched details and tailored fit.
Do you think he brought the holster from home?
Speaking of Maquis drip, B’Elanna has some INSANE boots that we only get to see for a split second as she swings her legs off a bio-bed in sick bay. The whole outfit is absolutely deadly, but I would do anything to see these boots show up in more episodes.
Surely we can make a uniform exception?
With all the loose ends neatly wrapped up, it’s time for the Voyager crew (and new additions) to start the long trek home. But before we can warp away, Neelix and Kes run to tell Janeway something very important – that they’ve replicated more new clothes.
The bridge is basically a common area, right?
Kes sports an olive green tunic with slashed shoulders that allow the poofy sleeves of a shirt underneath to poke through, over jade green leggings and matching heels. It’s another cute look, and even more elfin than before, but I think the red-and-orange outfit was more flattering. Neelix has another matching pants and jacket set made out of the ugliest fabric possible, though with an interesting front closure swooping off to one side. Beneath the jacket is a very handsome red shirt, with a sort of kimono-like layered appearance.
Slow your pace a bit, guys, we’ve got 70,000 lightyears to go.
—
The Costume Designer for this episode was Robert Blackman. Wardrobe Supervisor: Carol Kunz Key Costumers: Tom Siegel, Camille Argus, Matt Hoffman, Jamie Thomas
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Recycled wool fabrics-Deejay Wooltex International
Wool has been the preferred fiber for seeking warmth during the cold winter days for centuries. The plush fabrics made from this natural fiber have a timeless appeal, but the technology used to manufacture fabrics such as tweed, Melton, flannels, felt, boiled wool fabrics etc., has metamorphosed and evolved. New-age companies with sustainability as their driving force are steering the textile industry to a world of fashion, which has minimum impact on the environment. Elegant fabrics with a rich hand feel that help us combat the threat of climate change are the future of the fashion industry.
This is especially true of Dee JayInternational, a woollen textiles manufacturing company, skilled in making textiles out of materials such as the Recycled wool. Yes, you heard it right - wool can be recycled and the fabrics made from such wool are equally warm, soft and graceful, if not more, than the fabrics made from virgin wool. Then what is the difference? The difference lies in the intent. Recycled wool fabrics are way more sustainable compared to their virgin counterparts.
Wool as a fiber is strong enough to last a lifetime. The woollen sweater which you discarded last spring might be an old garment, but the wool fibers that it was made of are still young and breathing. The fibers extracted from these discarded and unwanted woollen garments are spun into plush yarn using state-of-the-art carding and spinning machines. This yarn is then weaved into fine tweeds, exquisite felt, Melton, tartan wool checks, boucle fabrics, boiled wool fabrics and a wide range of winter textiles, which look chic and perform well outdoors while reducing our carbon footprint. Thus with recycled wool, we get a range of soft, warm textiles which are respectful to the planet and its animals. With a garment made out of recycled wool you get high performance with minimum impact on the ecosystem.
The sheep, which are reared and sheared for virgin wool, lead a safer life. Even the air and water remain cleaner because the fabric or yarn does not need to be dyed and thus it minimizes the use of chemicals. Already colored fibers are sorted and mixed on the yarn manufacturing stage to get the desired colors. With growing awareness, the demand for Recycled wool textiles has grown exponentially over the years. The top most fashion houses in India, UK, Italy, Germany, Denmark, US, Canada prefer plush tweed and felt made out of recycled wool for crafting jackets, blazers, suits, dresses, coats, overcoats and the trendiest, most fashionable winter wear. After all, in today's day and age sustainability is no more a privilege, it has become a necessity. The smallest of environmentally conscious choices go a long way in defining the kind of planet that we wish to inherit to our future generations. Sustainability, thus is the need of the hour and we all need to pledge, to consciously make eco-friendly choices like choosing Recycled wool.
While buying a winter garment, why not consciously ask if it contains Recycled wool? Let's make a commitment to make the planet a better and safer place for our children. Let's commit to the warmth of Recycled wool.
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#tweed fabrics suppliers#tweed fabric exporters in India#tweed fabrics wholesalers#tweed fabrics companies listings#tweed fabrics catalogs#tweed fabrics traders#tweed fabrics Retailers#tweed fabrics Manufacturer
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Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market – Industry Trends and Forecast to 2024
Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market By Type (Thermoplastic Polymers, Fabric, Leather, Plastics, Metals, Composites, Others), By Vehicle Type (Passenger Vehicles, Light Commercial Vehicles, Heavy Commercial Vehicles, Others), By Application (Seating, Dashboards, Airbag & Seat Belt, Door Panel, Carpet & Headliner, Interior Trim, Others), By Country (Germany, United Kingdom, France, Spain, Italy, Russia, Turkey, Belgium, Nether lands, Switzerland, Rest of Europe)– Industry Trends and Forecast to 2024
The Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market is expected to reach USD 32,641.66 million by 2024, from USD 14,879.75 million in 2016 growing at a CAGR of 10.5% in the forecast period 2024. The new market report contains data for historic years 2015, the base year of calculation is 2016 and the forecast period is 2024.
The major factors driving the growth of this market are globalization leading to advancement in technology. The automotive interior materials market in the Europe region is leading in Germany.
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Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market Size, Status and Forecast 2025
Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market Overview
Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market Manufacturers Profiles
Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market Sales, Revenue, Market Share and Competition by Manufacturer
Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market Analysis by Regions
Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market by Countries
Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market Segment by Type
Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market Segment by Application
Europe Automotive Interior Materials MarketForecast
Sales Channel, Distributors, Traders and Dealers
Research Findings and Conclusion
Appendixes
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Market Segmentation: Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market
The Europe automotive interior materials market is segmented on the basis of type, vehicle type, application and geography. The report provides data for 2015 to 2024, 2016 being the current year while 2017 to 2024 is the forecast period for the report.
On the basis of type, the Europe automotive interior materials market is segmented into leather, thermoplastic polymers, fabric, plastic, metal, composite and others. The automotive interior materials are dominated by leather with 33.4% market share in 2017, growing at the highest CAGR of 11.9% in the forecast period. Leather is further segmented into two types which includes synthetic and genuine. Synthetic is further sub segmented into polyurethane and poly-vinyl-chloride. Thermoplastic polymers is further segmented into polystyrene (PS), poly-vinyl-chloride (PVC), polyethylene (PE) and others. Fabric is further segmented into tweed, body cloth fabric, velvet and velour. Plastic is further sub-segmented into polypropylene (PP), acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), polycarbonate (PC) and others. Metal is further sub-segmented into steel, aluminium and others. Composite is further sub segmented into carbon fiber reinforced polymer (CFRP), fibre-reinforced plastic (FRP) and others.
On the basis of vehicle type, the Europe automotive interior materials market is segmented into passenger vehicles light commercial vehicles, heavy commercial vehicles and others. In 2017, the passenger vehicles segment is expected to dominate the market with 75.1% market share.
By application, the Europe automotive interior materials market is segmented into seating, dashboards, airbag & seat belt, door panel, carpet & headliner, interior trim and others. In 2017, the seating is expected to dominate the market with 32.6% market share and is expected to grow at the highest CAGR of 11.7% in the forecast period.
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Key Drivers: Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market
Europe is the growing market for automotive interior materials. The growth in this market is due to globalization leading to advancement in technology will boost the automotive interior materials market.
Key Points: Europe Automotive Interior Materials Market
Adient is going to dominate the Europe automotive interior materials following with Faurecia S.A, Lear Corporation and Groupo Antolin
Leather segment is expected to dominate the Europe automotive interior materials market.
The automotive interior materials market in the Europe region is leading in France, U.K., Germany and Italy. Germany accounts for the highest market share in this region.
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Automotive Interior Materials Market
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Global Worsted Yarn Market 2018 by Manufacturers, Regions, Type and Application, Forecast to 2023
Worsted yarn is also called combed yarn, refers to the combing process of processed yarn, Evenness, smooth, but the cost is high, high yarn count. Combed yarn is mainly used for advanced fabrics and knitwear, such as finespun, Hua Dane, tweed and woolen sweater etc. Scope of the Report: This re
Sahil Sharma's insight:
Worsted yarn is also called combed yarn, refers to the combing process of processed yarn,Evenness, smooth, but the cost is high, high yarn count. Combed yarn is mainly used for advanced fabrics and knitwear, such as finespun, Hua Dane, tweed and woolen sweater etc.
Scope of the Report:
This report focuses on the Worsted Yarn in global market, especially in North America, Europe and Asia-Pacific, South America, Middle East and Africa. This report categorizes the market based on manufacturers, regions, type and application.
The report provides major statistics on the state of the industry and is a valuable source of guidance and direction for companies and individuals interested in the market.
The worldwide market for Worsted Yarn is expected to grow at a CAGR of roughly xx% over the next five years, will reach xx million US$ in 2023, from xx million US$ in 2017, according to a new GIR (Global Info Research) study.
Market Segment by Manufacturers, this report covers
Red Heart
Lion Brand
Yarnspirations
Premier
Darn Good Yarn
Sullivans USA
LornaÂs Laces
Brown Sheep Co
Ancient Arts
Patons
Cascade
Debbie Bliss
Hengyuanxiang Group
Sanli
QIfa Merino Woolen Yarn
Malabrigo
Ravely
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Market Segment by Regions, regional analysis covers
North America (United States, Canada and Mexico)
Europe (Germany, France, UK, Russia and Italy)
Asia-Pacific (China, Japan, Korea, India and Southeast Asia)
South America (Brazil, Argentina, Colombia etc.)
Middle East and Africa (Saudi Arabia, UAE, Egypt, Nigeria and South Africa)
Market Segment by Type, covers
Merino Wool
Cashmere Wool
Peruvian Highland Wool
Teeswater Wools
Shetland Wools
Others
Market Segment by Applications, can be divided into
Apparel
Blanket
Others
There are 15 Chapters to deeply display the global Worsted Yarn market. Chapter 1, to describe Worsted Yarn Introduction, product scope, market overview, market opportunities, market risk, market driving force; Chapter 2, to analyze the top manufacturers of Worsted Yarn, with sales, revenue, and price of Worsted Yarn, in 2016 and 2017; Chapter 3, to display the competitive situation among the top manufacturers, with sales, revenue and market share in 2016 and 2017; Chapter 4, to show the global market by regions, with sales, revenue and market share of Worsted Yarn, for each region, from 2013 to 2018; Chapter 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9, to analyze the market by countries, by type, by application and by manufacturers, with sales, revenue and market share by key countries in these regions; Chapter 10 and 11, to show the market by type and application, with sales market share and growth rate by type, application, from 2013 to 2018; Chapter 12, Worsted Yarn market forecast, by regions, type and application, with sales and revenue, from 2018 to 2023; Chapter 13, 14 and 15, to describe Worsted Yarn sales channel, distributors, traders, dealers, Research Findings and Conclusion, appendix and data source
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Table of content
1 Market Overview 1.1 Worsted Yarn Introduction 1.2 Market Analysis by Type 1.2.1 Merino Wool 1.2.2 Cashmere Wool 1.2.3 Peruvian Highland Wool 1.2.4 Teeswater Wools 1.2.5 Shetland Wools 1.2.6 Others 1.3 Market Analysis by Applications 1.3.1 Apparel 1.3.2 Blanket 1.3.3 Others 1.4 Market Analysis by Regions 1.4.1 North America (United States, Canada and Mexico) 1.4.1.1 United States Market States and Outlook (2013–2023) 1.4.1.2 Canada Market States and Outlook (2013–2023) 1.4.1.3 Mexico Market States and Outlook (2013–2023) 1.4.2 Europe (Germany, France, UK, Russia and Italy) 1.4.2.1 Germany Market States and Outlook (2013–2023) 1.4.2.2 France Market States and Outlook (2013–2023) 1.4.2.3 UK Market States and Outlook (2013–2023) 1.4.2.4 Russia Market States and Outlook (2013–2023) 1.4.2.5 Italy Market States and Outlook (2013–2023) 1.4.3 Asia-Pacific (China, Japan, Korea, India and Southeast Asia) 1.4.3.1 China Market States and Outlook (2013–2023) 1.4.3.2 Japan Market States and Outlook (2013–2023)
Key questions answered in this report:
What will the Worsted Yarn the growth rate be in 2025?
What are the key factors driving the Global Worsted Yarn Market with a focus on the Chinese market?
What are the key market trends impacting the growth of the Global Worsted Yarn market?
What are the challenges to Global Worsted Yarn Market growth?
What are the market opportunities and threats faced by the vendors in the Global Worsted Yarn Market industry?
What are the key outcomes of the five forces analysis of Worsted Yarn?
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Strategic suggestions and proposals for the beginners to understand Assessments of the market share from different countries and regions were conducted Top key market players, market share analysis included.
The market observations such as constraints, drivers, threats, opportunities, investment opportunities, challenges, and recommendations are added.
The competitive landscaping mappings of the ongoing trends are discussed. Based on the market estimations, the strategic recommendations are made in the business segments The competitive landscaping mappings of the current trends are detailed. Various companies detailed profiles are included.
The latest technology advancements are mapped with the trends of the supply chain. The analysis of competitiveness between different markets players are added to provide
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"Worsted yarn is also called combed yarn, refers to the combing process of processed yarn, Evenness, smooth, but the cost is high, high yarn count. Combed yarn is mainly used for advanced fabrics and knitwear, such as finespun, Hua Dane, tweed and woolen sweater etc." Scope of the Report: This report focuses on the Worsted Yarn in Asia-Pacific market, especially in China, Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Southeast Asia, India and Australia. This report categorizes the market based on manufacturers, countries/Regions, type and application. Market Segment by Manufacturers, this report covers United States Europe China Japan Other The players list Red Heart Lion Brand Yarnspirations Premier Darn Good Yarn Sullivans USA Lorna’s Laces Brown Sheep Co Ancient Arts Patons Cascade Debbie Bliss Hengyuanxiang Group Sanli QIfa Merino Woolen Yarn Malabrigo Ravely Market Segment by Countries, covering China Japan Korea Taiwan Southeast Asia India Australia Market Segment by Type, covers Merino Wool Cashmere Wool Peruvian Highland Wool Teeswater Wools Shetland Wools Others Market Segment by Applications, can be divided into Apparel Blanket Others There are 19 Chapters to deeply display the Asia-Pacific Worsted Yarn market. Chapter 1, to describe Worsted Yarn Introduction, product type and application, market overview, market analysis by countries, market opportunities, market risk, market driving force; Chapter 2, to analyze the manufacturers of Worsted Yarn, with profile, main business, news, sales, price, revenue and market share in 2016 and 2017; Chapter 3, to display the competitive situation among the top manufacturers, with sales, revenue and market share in 2016 and 2017; Chapter 4, to show the Asia-Pacific market by countries, covering China, Japan, Korea, Southeast Asia, Taiwan, India and Australia, with sales, price, revenue and market share of Worsted Yarn, for each country, from 2012 to 2017; Chapter 5 and 6, to show the market by type and application, with sales, price, revenue, market share and growth rate by type, application, from 2012 to 2017; Chapter 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13 to analyze the key countries by manufacturers, Type and Application,covering China,Japan,Korea,Southeast Asia, Taiwan, India and Australia,with sales,revenue and market share by manufacturers,types and application; Chapter 14, Worsted Yarn market forecast, by countries, type and application, with sales, price, revenue and growth rate forecast, from 2017 to 2022; Chapter 15, to analyze the manufacturing cost, key raw materials and manufacturing process etc. Chapter 16, to analyze the industrial chain, sourcing strategy and downstream end users (buyers); Chapter 17, to describe sales channel, distributors, traders, dealers etc. Chapter 18 and 19, to describe the research findings and conclusion, appendix, methodology and data source
#worsted yarn market#worsted yarn market trends#worsted yarn market size#worsted yarn market data#worsted yarn market structure#worsted yarn industry analysis#worsted yarn market research#worsted yarn market report
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Fabric of the Community
A wardrobe staple during and after WWII, Harris Tweed faces challenges as it goes upscale and gets an update.
By Emilie Marsh
on November 24, 2008
LEWIS & HARRIS, Scotland – “Not too fast, not too slow.” Wedged between golf clubs, garden equipment and boxes bursting with household paraphernalia, Neil Macleod sits in his garage, weaving dreams into Harris Tweed. “It’s tremendously satisfying; I clear my mind and imagine all the places where this piece of Harris Tweed will wind up,” says Macleod, pedaling at his loom, before pausing to pat his sheepdog, who sits obediently in her basket at his feet. “And it only can be made here on this small island on the edge of the world.”
Known as the world’s only commercially produced handwoven tweed, Harris Tweed has been used by Ralph Lauren and Prada, and inspired Coco Chanel’s famous jackets. But the pure virgin wool fabric all but fell into obscurity two years ago as production plummeted to one manufacturer. It’s only now, with the a revival of another mill and the fabric once again coming into fashion—inspiring work of Tom Ford and Thom Browne—that Harris Tweed is embarking on a renaissance. And the fascination lies in the history of the fabric. Just a few hours’ ferry ride off the western shore of the Scottish Highlands, islanders like Macleod on jointly connected isles of Lewis and Harris—part of the Outer Hebrides—have been weaving Harris Tweed for as long as anyone can remember.
The heavy fabric is protected by an act of Parliament, which states that Harris Tweed must be “handwoven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides” and “made from pure virgin wool, which is also dyed and spun” there. Only after it has been inspected by the industry authority and awarded the symbol of authenticity—the orb with the Maltese cross, one of Britain’s oldest trademarks, since 1909—does the cloth earn the venerable moniker Harris Tweed.
“It just takes a quick glance at the nature here to see where the fabric’s inspiration comes from,” says Macleod, showing off lengths of tweed speckled with a kaleidoscope of Hebridean colors. “There is no other place on earth like it. You just fall in love with the landscape.”
And who wouldn’t? Rolling moors dotted with white sheep and blanketed by violet heather, peaty streams teaming with pink salmon and bleeding into electric blue seas, endless stretches of sandy, lemon-colored beaches. Macleod is one of only 100 active weavers left on the island, from as many as 1,000 around a decade ago, producing a mere 300,000 meters of the famed fabric per annum, compared with more than a million meters of cloth back in its postwar heyday.
Harris Tweed all but ceased existing several years ago when the biggest mill on the island was put up for sale. A handful of entrepreneurs from the mainland stepped in to try to rescue the industry, albeit with different visions of how. In 2006, Yorkshire native Brian Haggas purchased the Kenneth Mackenzie mill in Stornoway, which at one time accounted for 95 percent of all Harris Tweed production.
“[Harris Tweed] was and can still be an iconic brand,” says Haggas from his offices. “We’ve got a great product where there’s real nostalgia and fondness, where people’s eyes light up when you mention the name.” Believing that Harris Tweed “isn’t a fashion staple” but “a classic,” Haggas, who made his fortune in textiles, reduced the mill’s 800 patterns of Harris Tweed to just four styles and cut wholesale distribution of the fabric, choosing instead to ship the cloth to China.
There it is made into jackets for sale at retail. He took delivery of the first shipment of 70,000 jackets in September. Concerned that Harris Tweed would no longer be available by the bale, three Scots invested in two other mills, bent on maintaining supplies to the wholesale trade and preserving the gamut of cloth designs, which they and many others on the island believe are part of the local heritage. Scottish oil trader Ian Taylor rescued the Harris Tweed Hebrides mill in the village of Shawbost on Lewis isle in 2007. It had been closed for nearly two years. The mill, which once supplied Prada, Louis Vuitton and Ralph Lauren, restarted production in May.
“We had to act quickly and catch the tail end of the season in order to tell customers that Harris Tweed is not lost forever,” explains Ian Mackenzie, the mill’s chief executive officer, as he strolls through the plant, where stacks of raw wool await dyeing beside murky vats of liquid. “It was the lifeline for the island for 100 years. Society here was built on the back of Harris Tweed. It is a social service, the fabric of the community,” Mackenzie says. “From the land comes the cloth.”
“Harris Tweed is its own brand,” he continues, with a quick stop to show off a mélange of chopped up wool in various colors, which in seconds will be spun into yarn and shipped to the weavers, for threading into a specific pattern. “We will push it to its greatest potential back where it should be in the high-end market,” he adds, showing off the final process where rolls of fabric are washed and finished before being stamped.
A short drive from Shawbost, along the rugged coastline and through the misty moors that make up Lewis, the owners of the smallest mill on the island also have big plans for Harris Tweed. “What we have is a completely unique product,” says Derek Reid, who bought Harris Tweed Textiles in 2003, along with a shell of a mill. “It is handwoven. It has phenomenal colors. It has a heritage and culture that are quite simply unique and an act of Parliament protects it. So, you’ve got something that is iconic, desirable and capable of being fashion-related, but which needs leadership and direction.” Reid, a former marketing director from Cadbury Schweppes, maintains that the challenge is pricing Harris Tweed accordingly and making it appealing to the end consumer in a modern world with many choices like ultra-light, softer tweeds made from blends. The weight of a Harris Tweed, which is one of the pillars of the parliamentary act, cannot be altered.
“We can’t compete with regulations, but I think the solution is creatively thinking outside the box using your own brainpower to decide how to skin the cat,” says Reid.
For Harris Tweed Textiles that means producing cashmere blends alongside Harris Tweed, but not under the Harris Tweed banner, to increase sales and keep the mill running 12 months of the year. “There is a massive hill to climb now,” says Reid. “At it is a hill that requires unanimity of objectives between all the mills, all the weavers and the entirety of the industry. We have to see production reach 750,000 meters over the next three to five years. It’s going to have to go through a pain barrier where prices go up [but where ultimately] everyone benefits financially. The days of selling a Harris Tweed jacket at only 120 pounds are hopefully long gone.”
The challenge is not lost on the Harris Tweed Authority. “The demands of protecting the orb thus far have stifled the ability to promote it and we’ll have nothing left to protect if we don’t promote,” says Lorna MacAulay, the newly appointed president of the Authority. “We need to find the balance between protection and promotion and bring it back to fashion.” From her office, which is fully dressed—or upholstered—in Harris Tweed, MacAulay is wrestling with the task of bringing Harris Tweed into the 21st century. “We need to be proud about bringing it back and start showing off,” MacAulay says.
She may have a captive audience, if she shouts loud enough. Fusty images of Harris Tweed à la fuddy-duddy sport coats and Miss Marple-esque sensible suits are currently gathering mothballs as designers and industry insiders are increasingly lured by the fabric’s wide-ranging appeal.
“Harris Tweed is the DNA of modern men’s wear. It is the foundation of men’s fashion and great taste in men’s apparel. It’s bigger than the isles themselves and every great name in retail has been inspired by the beauty of Harris Tweed,” says New York–based men’s wear designer Joseph Abboud, who recalled a photograph of Coco Chanel donning a borrowed men’s Harris Tweed jacket. “In this world of mass production and automation there is a boomerang effect towards luxury handmade products,” says Abboud.
In 1987, Vivienne Westwood themed her women’s collection around the cloth and Alexander McQueen made his “Grey Lady” ball gown from a hand patchwork jigsaw of different Harris Tweeds. Dolce & Gabbana tapped the fabric, as did Alexandre Plokhov, Versace’s men’s wear designer, who opened his Cloak show with a gray cape made from vegetable-dyed Harris Tweed in 2005. “For sure tweed as a fabrication has a look and tells a story,” says Tom Kalenderian, executive vice-president and GMM of men’s at Barneys. “Harris Tweed’s artisan factor is a key element,” says Tommy Fazio, fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman Men. “Even people like Tom Ford are making suits inspired by Harris Tweed.”
After an inspiring outing at Première Vision in September, Fazio says he expects to see a “real resurgence” of the fabric next fall. Macleod is preparing for it. Still in his garage, he is about to finish off his five-day week of weaving eight hours a day. Nearly 170 meters of Harris Tweed are rolled up and waiting to be sent back to the mills.
“We want to see the industry grow. We must aim for that. We’re not traditionalists,” he says. “I would love to see Harris Tweed that I wove here worn by some elegantly dressed man making his way down the high-class streets of New York or Paris.”
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Tweed Fabric Manufacturers in NewYork
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