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"Tree Job Troubles: What Went Wrong!"
#youtube#stump#stumps#tree work#tree emoval#tree problems#tree problems on the job#tree worker#tree service#tree stump#tree stump grinder#tree root#tree trimming#cut tree#how to trim a tree#how to remove debris on tree job#how to remove a tree#how to grind a stump#tree service grapple truck#grapple truck#huntsvilleal#huntsville
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rules: bold for what your oc can do.
swim / scuba dive / read and write / do calligraphy / ride a bike / ride a unicycle / ride a motorcycle / drive / draw / sing / play an instrument / maintain a rhythm / converse in a language / converse in more than two languages / converse in more than four languages / do basic math / do algebra / understand structural formulas / read a floor plan / assemble ikea / build a working piece of furniture / build a house / sew a button / customize clothes / make clothes / bind a book / use a vacuum / clean windows without leaving streaks / boil water / make pasta / remove the pit of an avocado / cut bell peppers / cook / bake / basic first aid / cpr / close a bullet wound / fire a gun / load a gun / shuffle a deck of cards / shuffle a deck of cards one-handed / play or read tarot / use matches / use a lighter / make a fire without either / code / start a computer / hack / steal a car without keys / pick a lock / kick down a door / throw a punch / put an opponent smaller than them into a choke hold / put an opponent larger than them into a choke hold / intentionally break a bone / make a cast / chop down a tree / put up a tent / make a knot / create a shelter without tools or brought materials / make a cocktail / cut a line of cocaine / change a diaper / recite a nursery rhyme from memory / recite an important religious code from memory / recite the table of elements from memory / recite all pokemon in the pokemon song from memory / recite a 10-digit code 24 hours later after only reading it once / tell a person’s zodiac sign / tell a person’s age / play football / play basketball / play another ball sport / ice skate / use an audio recording device / use a camera / tattoo / do a piercing
tagged by: @urodets��tagging: steal it!
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REPOST AND BOLD WHAT YOUR MUSE CAN DO. ( italics for what they could do, but have never attempted to. )
swim / scuba dive / read and write / do calligraphy / ride a bike / ride a unicycle / ride a motorcycle / drive / draw / sing / play an instrument / maintain a rhythm / converse in a language / converse in more than two languages / converse in more than four languages / do basic maths / do algebra / understand structural formulas / read a floorplan / assemble ikea / build a working piece of furniture / build a house / sew a button / customize clothes / make clothes / bind a book / use a vacuum / clean windows without leaving streaks / boil water / make pasta / remove the pit of an avocado / cut bell peppers / cook / bake / basic first aid / cpr / close a bullet wound / fire a gun / load a gun / shuffle a deck of cards / shuffle a deck of cards one-handed / play or read tarot / use matches / use a lighter / make a fire without either / code / start a computer / hack / steal a car without keys / pick a lock / kick down a door / throw a punch / put an opponent smaller than them into a chokehold / put an opponent larger than them into a chokehold / intentionally break a bone / make a cast / chop down a tree / put up a tent / make a knot / create a shelter without tools or brought materials / make a cocktail / cut a line of cocaine / change a diaper / recite a nursery rhyme from memory / recite an important religious code from memory / recite a 10-digit code 24 hours later after only reading it once / tell a person’s zodiac sign / tell a person’s age / play a ball sport / iceskate / use an audio recording device / use a camera / tattoo / do a piercing.
tagged by: @ecsile 🥰 tagging: the person reading this
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100 difficult riddles & Answers that kids and families will love
1. When you do not know what I am, then I am something. But when you know what I am, then I am nothing. What am I? A RIDDLE
2. You can see me in water, but I never get wet. What am I? A REFLECTION
3. The more you take, the more you leave behind. What am I? FOOTSTEPS
4. When I am released to the wind, you look away and you pretend, but away your friends I will send. What am I? A FART
5. What English word has three consecutive double letters? BOOKKEEPER
6. Imagine you are in a dark room. How do you get out? STOP IMAGINING
7. What English word retains the same pronunciation, even after you take away four of its five letters? QUEUE
8. When you have me, you feel like sharing me. But, if you do share me, you don't have me. What am I? A SECRET
9. A man is pushing his car along the road when he comes to a hotel. He shouts, "I'm bankrupt!" Why? HE IS PLAYING MONOPOLY
10. An English word has six letters, remove one letter, and twelve remains. What am I? DOZENS
11. What question can you never answer yes to? ARE YOU ASLEEP?
12. What invention lets you look right through a wall? A WINDOW
13. What s as light as a feather, but even the world's strongest man couldn't hold it for more than a minute? HIS BREATH
14. What occurs once in every minute, twice in every moment, yet never in a thousand years? THE LETTER M.
15. I never ask questions but am always answered. What am I? A DOORBELL
16. If you go to the movies and you're paying, is it cheaper to take one friend to the movies twice, or two friends to the movies at the same time?
- IT'S CHEAPER TO TAKE TWO FRIENDS AT THE SAME TIME. IN THIS CASE, YOU WOULD ONLY BEBUYING THREE TICKETS, WHERE AS IF YOU TAKE THE SAME FRIEND TWICE YOU ARE BUYING FOUR TICKETS.
17. What gets bigger every time you take from it? A HOLE
18. What is full of holes, but can still hold a lot of water? A SPONGE
19. Which came first the chicken or the egg?
THE EGG. DINOSAURS LAID EGGS BEFORE THE REWERE ANY CHICKENS
20. No matter how much rain comes down on it, it won't get any wetter. What is it? WATER
21. I'm flat when I'm new. I'm fat when you use me. I release my gas when something sharp touches me. What am I? A BALLOON
22. Three times what number is no larger than two times that same number? 0
23. What do you throw out when you want to use it, but take in when you don't want to use it? AN ANCHOR
24. I cannot hear or even see, but sense light and sounds that may be. Sometimes I end up on the hook, or even deep into a book. What am I?A WORM
25. Which ring is square? A BOXINGRING
26. Why are manholes round instead of square?
IF THEY'RE SQUARE IT'S POSSIBLE FOR THE COVER TO SLIP DOWN THE HOLE (DIAGONALLY). A ROUND MAN HOLE CAN NOT FALL DOWN NO MATTER WHICH WAY IT IS ROTATED BECAUSE IT'S WIDTH IN ANY DIRECTION IS GREATER THAN THE OPENING ON THE HOLE.
27. What tastes better than it smells? YOUR TONGUE
28. At night, they come without being fetched. By day they are lost without being stolen. What are they? THE STARS
29. The more you have of it, the less you see. What is it? DARKNESS
30. What starts with a T, ends with a T, and has T in it? A TEAPOT
31. Say my name and I disappear. What am I? SILENCE
32. What is it that after you take away the whole, some still remains? WHOLE SOME
33. Forward I’m heavy, but backwards I’m not. What am I? TON
34. I am a box that holds keys without locks, yet they can unlock your soul. What am I? A PIANO
35. My first is twice in apple but not once in tart. My second is in liver but not in heart. My third is in giant and also in ghost. Whole I’m best when I am roast. What am I? A PIG
36. Remove six letters from this sequence to reveal a familiar English word. BSAINXLEATNTEARS BANANAS(REMOVED SIX LETTERS)
37. What has four wheels and flies? GARBAGE TRUCK
38. What has a forest but no trees, cities but no people and rivers but no water? MAP
39. Runs smoother than any rhyme, loves to fall but cannot climb. What am I? WATER
40. Take me and scratch my head. What once was red, is black instead. What am I? A MATCH
41. What is as big as you are and yet does not weigh anything? YOURSHADOW
42. It is an insect, and the first part of its name is the name of another insect. What is it? BEETLE
43. I'm where yesterday follows today, and tomorrow's in the middle. What am I? A DICTIONARY
44. How much dirt is there in a hole 3 feet deep, 6 ft. long and 4 ft. wide? NONE – IT IS A HOLE
45. Name all the numbers from 1 – 100, which have the letter ‘A’ in their spellings? NONE
46. What kind of coat is always wet when you put it on? A COAT OF PAINT
47. What kind of cheese is made backwards? EDAM
48. What can you hold in your right hand but never in your left hand? YOUR LEFT HAND
49. During what month do people sleep the least? FEBRUARY
50. What can never be placed in a sauce pan? ITS LID
51. I am always there, some distance away, somewhere between land or sea and sky I lay. You may move towards me, but distant I will stay. What am I? THE HORIZON
52. I can only live where there is light, but I die if the light shines on me. What am I? A SHADOW
53. What kind of room has no doors or windows? A MUSHROOM
54. What can you catch but not throw? A COLD
55. What has a Heart but no other organs? A DECK OF CARDS
56. Two people are born at the same moment, but they don't have the same birthdays. How could this be? THEY ARE BORN IN DIFFERENT TIME ZONES
57. What's orange and sounds like a parrot? A CARROT
58. What always goes to bed with its shoes on? A HORSE
59. How can you make 7 even? REMOVE THE S
60. What am I? A QUESTION
61. I can bring tears to your eyes; resurrect the dead, make you smile, and reverse time. I form in an instant but I last a life time. What am I? A MEMORY
62. Mr. Smith has two children. If the older child is a boy, what are the odds that the other child is also a boy? 50 PERCENT
63. A man builds a house rectangular in shape. All the sides have southern exposure. A big bear walks by. What color is the bear? WHITE. IT IS A POLAR BEAR
64. What starts with an e but only has a single letter in it? ANENVELOPE
65. A girl who was just learning to drive went down a one-way street in the wrong direction but didn't break the law. How come? SHE WAS WALKING
66. If in a car race, the man who came two places in front of the last man finished one ahead of the man who came fifth. How many contestants were there? 6
67. A murderer is condemned to death. He has to choose between three rooms. The first is full of raging fires, the second is full of assassins with loaded guns, and the third is full of lions that haven't eaten in 3 years. Which room is safest for him? THE THIRD ROOM. LIONS THAT HAVEN'T EATEN IN THREE YEARS ARE DEAD.
68. What's black and white and red all over? A NEWSPAPER
69. What flies when it's born, lies when it's alive, and runs when it's dead? A SNOWFLAKE
70. I am the only organ that named myself. What am I? THE BRAIN
71. You walk into a room with a rabbit holding a carrot, a pig eating slop, and a chimp holding a banana. Which animal in the room is the smartest?YOU
72. What always murmurs but never talks, always runs but never walks, has a bed but never sleeps, has a mouth but never speaks? A RIVER
73. I am taken from a mine, and shut up in a wooden case, from which Iam never released, and yet I am used by almost everybody. What am I? A PENCIL
74. I'm tall when I'm young and I'm short when I'm old. What am I? A CANDLE
75. What house can fly? A HOUSEFLY
76. What goes up and doesn't go down? YOUR AGE
77. No matter how terrible things get for the people of the Arctic, they will not eat a penguin. Why? THERE AREN'T ANY PENGUINS IN THE ARTIC
78. A group of ten people are going out for pizza but only two of them have an umbrella to keep them dry. But they manage to walk all the way to the pizza place without getting wet.How is this possible? IT ISN'T RAINING OUTSIDE
79. What runs around the house but doesn't move? A FENCE
80. What goes around the house and in the house but never touches the house? THE SUN
81. A man finds a small iron coin dated 154 B.C., what's it worth? IT IS A FAKE. NO COIN CAN SAY BC
82. There is a one-story house. The walls are blue, the floor is pink, the stove and cupboards are red. What color are the stairs? THERE AREN'T ANY STAIRS
83. Why was the baby strawberry crying? BECAUSE ITS PARENTS WERE IN A JAM
84. I can be cracked, I can be made. I can be told, I can be played. What am I? A JOKE
85. I can't go left, I can't go right. I am forever stuck in a building over three stories high. What am I? AN ELEVATOR
86. What goes back and forth constantly, but never in a straight line? A PENDULUM
87. What dress can you not wear? AN ADDRESS
88. What belongs to you but others use it more? YOUR NAME
89. I don’t have eyes, but once I did see. Once I had thought, but am now white and empty. What am I? SKULL
90. What has hands that can’t clap? A CLOCK
91. Which three numbers have the same answer when added together and multiplied together? 1, 2 AND 3
92. What has a mouth but can't chew? A RIVER
93. How did Mark legally marry three women in Michigan, without divorcing any of them, becoming legally separated, or any of them dying? HE WAS A PRIEST
94. I have all the knowledge you have. But I am not much larger than your fist. What am I? I'M YOUR BRAIN
95. Everyone in the world needs it. They generously give it, but rarely take it. What is it? ADVICE
96. Take off my skin - I won't cry, but you will. What am I? AN ONION
97. Lighter than what I am made of, more of me is hidden than is seen. What am I? AN ICEBERG
98. You heard me before, yet you hear me again, then I die, ’till you call me again. What am I? AN ECHO
99. If you were standing directly on Antarctica’s South Pole facing north, which direction would you travel if you took one step backward? NORTH
100. What has a neck but no head? A BOTTLE
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REPOST AND BOLD WHAT YOUR MUSE CAN DO. ( italics for what they could do, but have never attempted to. )
swim / scubadive / read and write / do calligraphy / ride a bike / ride a unicycle / ride a motorcycle / drive / draw / sing / play an instrument / maintain a rhythm / converse in a language / converse in more than two languages / converse in more than four languages / do basic maths / do algebra / understand structural formulas / read a floorplan / assemble ikea / build a working piece of furniture / build a house / sew a button / customise clothes / make clothes / bind a book / use a vacuum / clean windows without leaving streaks / boil water / make pasta / remove the pit of an avocado / cut bell peppers / cook / bake / basic first aid / cpr / close a bullet wound / fire a gun / load a gun / shuffle a deck of cards / shuffle a deck of cards one-handed / play or read tarot / use matches / use a lighter / make a fire without either / code / start a computer / hack / steal a car without keys / pick a lock / kick down a door / throw a punch / put an opponent smaller than them into a chokehold / put an opponent larger than them into a chokehold / intentionally break a bone / make a cast / chop down a tree / put up a tent / make a knot / create a shelter without tools or brought materials / make a cocktail / cut a line of cocaine / change a diaper / recite a nursery rhyme from memory / recite an important religious code from memory / recite the table of elements from memory / recite all pokemon in the pokemon song from memory / recite a 10-digit code 24 hours later after only reading it once / tell a person’s zodiac sign / tell a person’s age / play football / play basketball / play another ball sport / iceskate / use an audio recording device / use a camera / tattoo / do a piercing.
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DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout
I’m building a floating deck in my back yard! This is the very first post of this series, but you will be able to catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.
Hey there! This post (or post series, rather) has been a long time coming. I’ve gotten started on my new floating deck (also sometimes called a freestanding deck), and I’m so excited to see this one finished! I want to first walk you through some of the decision-making details before I jump into the build. So, this post is going to cover a lot of topics regarding research, budgeting, and design.
With that in mind, bear with me as we go through. My main goal is to help clear the fog on the where/what/why, and a lot of these decisions are unique challenges of my yard (sloping, building over/around a concrete patio, etc.). If you wind up having questions as I go, I’ll try address them in future posts!
Legal disclaimer stuff: this is a personal recap and what I learn as I work on projects in my home. In hindsight, I often think of how I could have done something better. By no means is it a comprehensive guide for every scenario. No two houses are alike, and building codes/permitting rules vary. You will still need to research and make the best possible decision for your own home. I’m not a licensed professional. Reading and using any and all information is at your own risk. Power tools are dangerous and can kill you. Use protective safety gear, always. Don’t feed your dog chocolate, don’t stick keys in the electrical socket, and so on.
Backyard upgrades (to get to this point)
If you’ve been following along for a while, then you already know a lot of this. But for those that don’t, for the longest time with this house, I’ve been focusing a lot on the interior. I supposed that’s a pretty normal habit. We are more likely to first change the things we interact with everyday, like the kitchen, before we start fixing the part that can be more easily ignored, like the overgrown bushes in the back yard.
Each year, I dedicated a little time toward making progress. Baby steps! I killed off ivy, removed a bunch of pine trees, and filled in a sinkhole. Eventually, I made cosmetic improvements (a back hedge, fire pit, corner garden, etc.). All of a sudden, late last year, things really started to click; it was time to begin the two big projects I’ve always wanted to do. As with any project, it was a matter of money, time, labor, and research. It can all seem pretty overwhelming until you get started, and I am VERY good at procrastinating when I have a lot of logical reasons to postpone at my disposal!
Timing and budgeting: a juggling act
I knew I wanted to build a shed for extra storage toward the back of my lot and began planning for that last summer (which is also underway, but that build has its own separate series). I also wanted to eventually build a floating deck off of the existing concrete slab next to the house.
Originally, I thought these projects would happen in completely different timelines. But as I was planning, I managed to bring a sponsor onboard for the shed. That was a huge thing for me, since this has so many moving parts with weather/budget/etc. So, a huge thank-you to Wood Its Real for that help! I realized that, since I had been saving up for the shed and could redistribute that budget, I could basically maximize cost savings if I did both projects in one short, blazing summer of building. A lot of materials crossed over between the builds, so I could also use the new skills from one build to the next while it was still fresh in my mind. Then, I sketched up a quick version of how I thought everything would be done.
This seemed like a great option if I could also somehow convince K to help me design and plan it. It would be well worth the effort, I reasoned, provided that we didn’t manage to kill each other with all the sharp power tools at our disposal (thankfully, he’s a design engineer professionally and likes power tools as much as I do, so it was an easy sell). But to do any of it, we needed an actual, proper plan.
Design
I wanted the new build to create a natural flow from the patio door to the deck, from the deck to the fire pit, and so on. This would maximize the yard for an open, entertaining feel, while still giving everything separate zones.
Patio = grill spot
New deck = seating area
Fire pit = fire pit shenanigans
It’s kind of a lot to fit into a single space and around the only remaining tree in the yard. Even though I removed most of the trees, I kept the central one because it makes for a natural anchor for all the new lighting that will tie everything together (patio lights make everything better!). The sketch I created also mapped the new shed and room for a vegetable garden. But as I started marking things out in the yard, I realized that a patio as large as I sketched out would be WAY too big.
With K’s help, we came up with an even better plan:
Although this deck design doesn’t run the full length of the existing patio, I like that it sits perfectly between the patio and fire pit. The right corner of the new deck plan is at an angle, which allows for the mower to fit in between. This is a really. important. thing. for K; I won’t fight it, since I win by not having to mow. With this design, the shed/garden zone is a little more separate from the patio and deck, but still cohesive.
Slope challenges
As of 2016, my yard is filled in, but there is still a slope toward the back. I planned it this way for good reason: water runoff. The neighbor to my left is higher in elevation than all the others, so rainwater flows in a single direction in and out of my yard. If I had graded it any differently, I would risk disrupting that water flow, even jeopardizing the fill dirt by seeing it erode right back out of my yard. I planted a hedge line in the lower area as well to anticipate stemming future erosion problems, too.
Patios and just about anything in the yard have a slight slope for the same reason. I confirmed this with a level on my own patio, and the right corner is the lowest spot. The plan has been to continue that same slope on the new deck. So, it won’t be perfectly level, but it also won’t be noticeable.
Foundation
To help build the foundation but account for leveling, sloping, etc., I did some research and found that the best (and most readily-available) fit seemed to be precast pier blocks (aka deck blocks or Handi-blocks).
I also briefly considered TuffBlock (same concept, but more lightweight material). The biggest benefit with these is that it would involve less digging.
The main drawbacks were that I couldn’t find many examples of TuffBlocks in use on uneven ground, and the supply would have been a special order. Since the concrete version is in stock at Home Depot and Lowe’s, I did most of my research on those before choosing them. In hindsight, I would have liked to have tried one out for the shed and one for the deck and maybe compare. I’m sure at some point, I’ll be able to test it out (with a new house or working on a friend’s, etc.).
In either case, there’s a notch on top that fits a 2x- joist or 4×4 post. Since the floating deck will sit on or partially hover over the ground, I am putting them in for extra support. Where they are too high to sit on the ground, I’m digging them down partially into the dirt. On the farthest corner (closest to the fire pit), it’s actually not tall enough even when sitting on the ground, so one 4×4 post is needed there. On top of these, there will be a framework of 2×6 lumber and then the deck boards. And me, awkwardly doing bad yoga in celebration of a finished step.
Ground contact lumber
One important piece of info: since most of the new deck is touching the ground, the entire support structure (everything but the deck boards) will be made from “ground contact” lumber. You may already know of “pressure-treated” or “PT” lumber, which is lumber that has been chemically treated to withstand outdoor conditions better than bare wood. PT lumber is recommended for just about any project exposed to the elements. Now, there is a new standard, and stores are starting to carry more and more “GC” pressure-treated lumber. My nearest Home Depot has virtually all of their stock replaced with GC; Lowe’s has about half and half. You can see a slight color difference sometimes between the two.
The main difference is where you plan to use it. Here is a graphic that breaks it down depending on use (along with more details), but here’s an easy rule: if it’s anything touching the ground or within 6 inches of the ground, it should be made with ground contact lumber.
If it’s exposed to more moisture, use ground contact. If it’s something that will be difficult to reach or repair: ground contact. If it’s smarter than the average bear… ground contact.
I’ll cover a few more facts about GC lumber and even PT lumber in general as this series goes on, but there are so many details to cover! This is important enough to cover it in more depth, but I don’t want to throw too many details into this initial post until I can show more of the build as examples.
Partially covering the patio
As you can see from that digital rendering above, part of the new deck will cover a small corner of the existing patio. I found this tutorial from Family Handyman, and I plan to use some of the same ideas. Basically, I’ll be attaching some 2×4 supports to the patio (using ground contact lumber once again), and the deck will go over the whole thing.
Water buildup between the concrete pad and the wood will rot wood faster, even if it’s treated. So, I plan to make raise the framework in that spot with plastic shims.
Water is the enemy
Let’s see here: ground contact lumber, slope, plastic/flashing, drainage… basically every part of my plan has fighting moisture in common! So far, I’ve learned that water is my biggest concern. I may actually even be overdoing it, but I hope that regardless, the deck lasts a good long while.
Permits
I know this question will probably pop up a few times. I did not get a building permit for the deck. And, I didn’t appear to need one (after researching it for a long time). Even though there are standards (IRC and others) that are adopted by many states, the whole thing is rather complex; it took time to figure out the who/what/where/when (yes, that all matters):
What the codes are (there are multiple standards/guidelines that might be used to determine what is adopted)
Where they apply (city code, county code, etc.)
When they were adopted by your local ordinance
Who enforces it (there is often some discretion for the local code enforcement officer regarding approvals/violations)
I checked with my local guidelines prior to starting (if you don’t find one for your city, start researching the county, and so on). By comparison to what I’ve found, my county seems to be on the less restrictive side. This is definitely a situation where your best bet is to call your permit office and ask. Regardless, I’m doing my best to build things smart and structurally sound, permit or no (the shed as well).
Next
So, that was a really long intro, and we haven’t even started showing you the build process yet! But in the next post of the series, I’ll show you how I went from the initial layout:
To an actual framework:
Keep ya posted!
The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.
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DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout
I’m building a floating deck in my back yard! This is the very first post of this series, but you will be able to catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.
Hey there! This post (or post series, rather) has been a long time coming. It’s a little tricky to do a large project like this and then share it on the blog, mainly because the project itself can be quite tiring, and breaking it into beneficial chunks takes a little time to do it right. It’s almost like building it all a second time, except fewer last-minute changes and less muscle soreness.
All that just to say, bear with me as we go through these posts. My main goal is to help clear the fog on the where/what/why, and a lot of these decisions are specific to dealing with unique challenges of my yard (sloping, building over/around a concrete patio, etc.). But if you wind up having questions as I go, I’ll try address them in future posts!
Legal disclaimer stuff: this is a personal recap, and the evolution of what I learn as I work on projects in my home. In hindsight, I often think of how I could have done something better. By no means is it a comprehensive guide for every scenario. No two houses are alike, and building codes/permitting rules vary. You will still need to research and make the best possible decision for your own home. I’m not a licensed professional. Reading and using any and all information is at your own risk. Power tools are dangerous and can kill you. Use protective safety gear, always. Don’t feed your dog chocolate, don’t stick keys in the electrical socket, and so on.
Backyard upgrades (to get to this point)
If you’ve been following along for a while, then you already know a lot of this. But for those that don’t, for the longest time with this house, I’ve been focusing a lot on the interior. I supposed that’s a pretty normal habit. We are more likely to first change the things we interact with everyday, like the kitchen, before we start fixing the part that can be more easily ignored, like the overgrown bushes in the back yard.
Each year, I dedicated a little time toward making progress, but it was hard to see (pun-intended) the forest for the trees. I killed off ivy, removed a bunch of pine trees, filled in a sinkhole, and started making cosmetic improvements (a back hedge, fire pit, corner garden, etc.). All of a sudden, late last year, things really started to click; it was time to begin the two big projects I’ve always wanted to do. As with any project, it was a matter of money, time, labor, and research. It can all seem pretty overwhelming until you get started, and I am VERY good at procrastinating when I have a lot of logical reasons to postpone at my disposal!
Timing and budgeting: a juggling act
I knew I wanted to build a shed for extra storage toward the back of my lot and began planning for that last summer (which is also underway, but that build has its own separate series). I also wanted to eventually build a floating deck off of the existing concrete slab next to the house.
Originally, I thought these projects would happen in completely different timelines. But as I was planning, I managed to bring a sponsor onboard for the shed. It’s not always easy to have the right fit come along when you are trying to plan seasonally/budget/etc., so a huge thank-you to Wood Its Real for that help! I realized that, since I had been saving up the funds already, I could basically maximize the benefits of the budget if I did both projects in one short, blazing summer of building. A lot of materials crossed over between the builds, so I reasoned that purchasing bulk amounts would be cheaper and I could save on the cost of rentals, if any. Plus, working with the same materials, I would be able to cross over the skills from one build to the next. I sketched up a quick version of how I thought everything would be done.
This seemed like a great option if I could also somehow convince K to help me design and plan it. It would be well worth the effort, I reasoned, provided that we didn’t manage to kill each other with all the sharp power tools at our disposal (thankfully, he’s a design engineer professionally and likes power tools as much as I do, so it was an easy sell). But to do any of it, we needed an actual, proper plan.
Design
I wanted the new build to create a natural flow from the patio door to the deck, from the deck to the fire pit, and so on. This would maximize the yard for an open, entertaining feel, while still giving everything separate zones.
Patio = grill spot
New deck = seating area
Fire pit = fire pit shenanigans
It’s kind of a lot to fit into a single space and around the only remaining tree in the yard. Even though I removed most of the trees, I kept the central one because it makes for a natural anchor for all the new lighting that will tie everything together (patio lights make everything better!). The sketch I created seemed to make sense of everything, including the new shed, room for a vegetable garden, and so on. But as I started marking things out in the yard, I realized that extending the patio as large as I sketched out would be WAY too big.
With K’s help, we came up with an even better plan:
Although this deck design doesn’t run the full length of the existing patio, I like that it sits perfectly between the patio and fire pit. The right corner of the new deck plan is at an angle, which allows for the mower to fit in between (really. important. thing. for K; I won’t fight it, since I win by not having to mow). It keeps the shed/garden zone a little more separate from the patio and deck, but still cohesive. The step up from the existing patio and step down from the deck to the fire pit will be parallel.
Slope challenges
As of 2016, my yard is filled in, but there is still a slope toward the back. I planned it this way for good reason: water runoff. The neighbor to my left is higher in elevation than all the others, so rainwater flows in a single direction in and out of my yard. If I had graded it any differently, I would risk disrupting that water flow, even jeopardizing the fill dirt by seeing it erode right back out of my yard. I planted a hedge line in the lower area as well to anticipate stemming future erosion problems, too.
Patios and just about anything in the yard have a slight slope for the same reason. I confirmed this with a level on my own patio, and the right corner is the lowest spot. The plan has been to continue that same slope on the new deck. So, it won’t be perfectly level, but it also won’t be noticeable.
Foundation
To help build the foundation but account for leveling, sloping, etc., I did some research and found that the best (and most readily-available) fit seems to be precast pier blocks (aka deck blocks or Handi-blocks).
I also briefly considered TuffBlock (same concept, but more lightweight material). They seem much lighter and might avoid more digging, but I couldn’t find many examples of it in use on uneven ground and the supply would have been special order. Since the concrete version is in stock at Home Depot and Lowe’s, I did most of my research on these before choosing them. I think I’ll give them a try if I ever do this project again (with a new house or working on a friend’s, etc.).
In either case, these have a notch on top that fits a 2x- or 4×4 post. Since the floating deck will sit on or partially hover over the ground, I am putting them in for extra support. Where they are too high to sit on the ground, I’m digging them down partially into the dirt. On the farthest corner (closest to the fire pit), it’s actually not tall enough even when sitting on the ground, so one 4×4 post is needed there. On top of these, there will be a framework of 2×6 lumber and then the deck boards. And me, awkwardly doing bad yoga (completing steps on building a deck puts me in a goofy mood).
Ground contact lumber
One important piece of info: since most of the new deck is touching the ground, the entire support structure (everything but the deck boards) will be made from “ground contact” lumber. In my research for these projects, I discovered that there are new standards as of 2016 for treated lumber and outdoor projects. You may already know of “pre-treated/PT” lumber, which is lumber that has been chemically treated to withstand outdoor conditions better than bare wood (recommended for just about any project exposed to the elements). But now, there is a new standard, and stores are starting to carry more and more “gound contact” or “GC” pre-treated lumber.
The main difference is where you plan to use it. Here is a graphic that breaks it down depending on use (along with more details), but here’s an easy rule: if it’s anything touching the ground or within 6 inches of the ground, it should be made with ground contact lumber.
If it’s exposed to more moisture, use ground contact. If it’s something that will be difficult to reach or repair: ground contact. If it’s smarter than the average bear… ground contact.
I’ll cover a few more facts about GC lumber and even PT lumber in general as this series goes on, but there are so many details to cover! This is important enough to cover in more depth, but I don’t want to throw too many details into this initial post until I can show more of the build as examples.
Partially covering the patio
As you can see from that digital rendering above, part of the new deck will cover a small corner of the existing patio. I found this tutorial from Family Handyman, and I plan to use some of the same ideas. Basically, I’ll be attaching some 2×4 supports to the patio (using ground contact lumber once again), and the deck will go over the whole thing.
Water buildup between the concrete pad and the wood will rot wood faster, even if it’s treated. So, extra efforts will be made to raise the framework in that spot with plastic shims.
Water is the enemy
Let’s see here: ground contact lumber, slope, plastic/flashing, drainage… basically every part of this plan has fighting water in common! So far, I’ve learned that water is my biggest concern. I may actually overdo it with all of the ways I’m planning to handle it, but I hope through this process that my deck lasts a good long while.
Permits
I know this question will probably pop up a few times. I didn’t get a building permit for the deck and didn’t appear to need one (after researching it for a confusingly long time). Even though there are standards (IRC and others) that are adopted by many states, the whole thing is rather complex and took time to figure out the who/what/where/when (yes, that all matters):
What the codes are (there are multiple standards/guidelines that might be used to determine what is adopted)
Where they apply (city code, county code, etc.)
When they were adopted by your local ordinance
Who enforces it (there is often some discretion for the code enforcement officer regarding violations)
I checked with my local guidelines prior to starting (if you don’t find one for your city, start researching the county, and so on). By comparison to what I’ve found, my county seems to be on the less restrictive side. For example, one of my friends just informed me that he needed a permit in his city just to have a new range installed in his kitchen! So, this is definitely a situation where the best answer of whether or not a permit will be needed is, “it depends.” Regardless, I’m doing my best to build things smart and structurally sound, permit or no (the shed as well).
Next
So, that was a really long intro, and we haven’t even started building yet! But in the next post of the series, I’ll show you how I went from the initial design:
To an actual framework:
Keep ya posted!
The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.
More Where That Came From
How to Identify Poison Ivy, Prevent Exposure, ...
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Text
DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout
I’m building a floating deck in my back yard! This is the very first post of this series, but you will be able to catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.
Hey there! This post (or post series, rather) has been a long time coming. It’s a little tricky to do a large project like this and then share it on the blog, mainly because the project itself can be quite tiring, and breaking it into beneficial chunks takes a little time to do it right. It’s almost like building it all a second time, except fewer last-minute changes and less muscle soreness.
All that just to say, bear with me as we go through these posts. My main goal is to help clear the fog on the where/what/why, and a lot of these decisions are specific to dealing with unique challenges of my yard (sloping, building over/around a concrete patio, etc.). But if you wind up having questions as I go, I’ll try address them in future posts!
Legal disclaimer stuff: this is a personal recap, and the evolution of what I learn as I work on projects in my home. In hindsight, I often think of how I could have done something better. By no means is it a comprehensive guide for every scenario. No two houses are alike, and building codes/permitting rules vary. You will still need to research and make the best possible decision for your own home. I’m not a licensed professional. Reading and using any and all information is at your own risk. Power tools are dangerous and can kill you. Use protective safety gear, always. Don’t feed your dog chocolate, don’t stick keys in the electrical socket, and so on.
Backyard upgrades (to get to this point)
If you’ve been following along for a while, then you already know a lot of this. But for those that don’t, for the longest time with this house, I’ve been focusing a lot on the interior. I supposed that’s a pretty normal habit. We are more likely to first change the things we interact with everyday, like the kitchen, before we start fixing the part that can be more easily ignored, like the overgrown bushes in the back yard.
Each year, I dedicated a little time toward making progress, but it was hard to see (pun-intended) the forest for the trees. I killed off ivy, removed a bunch of pine trees, filled in a sinkhole, and started making cosmetic improvements (a back hedge, fire pit, corner garden, etc.). All of a sudden, late last year, things really started to click; it was time to begin the two big projects I’ve always wanted to do. As with any project, it was a matter of money, time, labor, and research. It can all seem pretty overwhelming until you get started, and I am VERY good at procrastinating when I have a lot of logical reasons to postpone at my disposal!
Timing and budgeting: a juggling act
I knew I wanted to build a shed for extra storage toward the back of my lot and began planning for that last summer (which is also underway, but that build has its own separate series). I also wanted to eventually build a floating deck off of the existing concrete slab next to the house.
Originally, I thought these projects would happen in completely different timelines. But as I was planning, I managed to bring a sponsor onboard for the shed. It’s not always easy to have the right fit come along when you are trying to plan seasonally/budget/etc., so a huge thank-you to Wood Its Real for that help! I realized that, since I had been saving up the funds already, I could basically maximize the benefits of the budget if I did both projects in one short, blazing summer of building. A lot of materials crossed over between the builds, so I reasoned that purchasing bulk amounts would be cheaper and I could save on the cost of rentals, if any. Plus, working with the same materials, I would be able to cross over the skills from one build to the next. I sketched up a quick version of how I thought everything would be done.
This seemed like a great option if I could also somehow convince K to help me design and plan it. It would be well worth the effort, I reasoned, provided that we didn’t manage to kill each other with all the sharp power tools at our disposal (thankfully, he’s a design engineer professionally and likes power tools as much as I do, so it was an easy sell). But to do any of it, we needed an actual, proper plan.
Design
I wanted the new build to create a natural flow from the patio door to the deck, from the deck to the fire pit, and so on. This would maximize the yard for an open, entertaining feel, while still giving everything separate zones.
Patio = grill spot
New deck = seating area
Fire pit = fire pit shenanigans
It’s kind of a lot to fit into a single space and around the only remaining tree in the yard. Even though I removed most of the trees, I kept the central one because it makes for a natural anchor for all the new lighting that will tie everything together (patio lights make everything better!). The sketch I created seemed to make sense of everything, including the new shed, room for a vegetable garden, and so on. But as I started marking things out in the yard, I realized that extending the patio as large as I sketched out would be WAY too big.
With K’s help, we came up with an even better plan:
Although this deck design doesn’t run the full length of the existing patio, I like that it sits perfectly between the patio and fire pit. The right corner of the new deck plan is at an angle, which allows for the mower to fit in between (really. important. thing. for K; I won’t fight it, since I win by not having to mow). It keeps the shed/garden zone a little more separate from the patio and deck, but still cohesive. The step up from the existing patio and step down from the deck to the fire pit will be parallel.
Slope challenges
As of 2016, my yard is filled in, but there is still a slope toward the back. I planned it this way for good reason: water runoff. The neighbor to my left is higher in elevation than all the others, so rainwater flows in a single direction in and out of my yard. If I had graded it any differently, I would risk disrupting that water flow, even jeopardizing the fill dirt by seeing it erode right back out of my yard. I planted a hedge line in the lower area as well to anticipate stemming future erosion problems, too.
Patios and just about anything in the yard have a slight slope for the same reason. I confirmed this with a level on my own patio, and the right corner is the lowest spot. The plan has been to continue that same slope on the new deck. So, it won’t be perfectly level, but it also won’t be noticeable.
Foundation
To help build the foundation but account for leveling, sloping, etc., I did some research and found that the best (and most readily-available) fit seems to be precast pier blocks (aka deck blocks or Handi-blocks).
I also briefly considered TuffBlock (same concept, but more lightweight material). They seem much lighter and might avoid more digging, but I couldn’t find many examples of it in use on uneven ground and the supply would have been special order. Since the concrete version is in stock at Home Depot and Lowe’s, I did most of my research on these before choosing them. I think I’ll give them a try if I ever do this project again (with a new house or working on a friend’s, etc.).
In either case, these have a notch on top that fits a 2x- or 4×4 post. Since the floating deck will sit on or partially hover over the ground, I am putting them in for extra support. Where they are too high to sit on the ground, I’m digging them down partially into the dirt. On the farthest corner (closest to the fire pit), it’s actually not tall enough even when sitting on the ground, so one 4×4 post is needed there. On top of these, there will be a framework of 2×6 lumber and then the deck boards. And me, awkwardly doing bad yoga (completing steps on building a deck puts me in a goofy mood).
Ground contact lumber
One important piece of info: since most of the new deck is touching the ground, the entire support structure (everything but the deck boards) will be made from “ground contact” lumber. In my research for these projects, I discovered that there are new standards as of 2016 for treated lumber and outdoor projects. You may already know of “pre-treated/PT” lumber, which is lumber that has been chemically treated to withstand outdoor conditions better than bare wood (recommended for just about any project exposed to the elements). But now, there is a new standard, and stores are starting to carry more and more “gound contact” or “GC” pre-treated lumber.
The main difference is where you plan to use it. Here is a graphic that breaks it down depending on use (along with more details), but here’s an easy rule: if it’s anything touching the ground or within 6 inches of the ground, it should be made with ground contact lumber.
If it’s exposed to more moisture, use ground contact. If it’s something that will be difficult to reach or repair: ground contact. If it’s smarter than the average bear… ground contact.
I’ll cover a few more facts about GC lumber and even PT lumber in general as this series goes on, but there are so many details to cover! This is important enough to cover in more depth, but I don’t want to throw too many details into this initial post until I can show more of the build as examples.
Partially covering the patio
As you can see from that digital rendering above, part of the new deck will cover a small corner of the existing patio. I found this tutorial from Family Handyman, and I plan to use some of the same ideas. Basically, I’ll be attaching some 2×4 supports to the patio (using ground contact lumber once again), and the deck will go over the whole thing.
Water buildup between the concrete pad and the wood will rot wood faster, even if it’s treated. So, extra efforts will be made to raise the framework in that spot with plastic shims.
Water is the enemy
Let’s see here: ground contact lumber, slope, plastic/flashing, drainage… basically every part of this plan has fighting water in common! So far, I’ve learned that water is my biggest concern. I may actually overdo it with all of the ways I’m planning to handle it, but I hope through this process that my deck lasts a good long while.
Permits
I know this question will probably pop up a few times. I didn’t get a building permit for the deck and didn’t appear to need one (after researching it for a confusingly long time). Even though there are standards (IRC and others) that are adopted by many states, the whole thing is rather complex and took time to figure out the who/what/where/when (yes, that all matters):
What the codes are (there are multiple standards/guidelines that might be used to determine what is adopted)
Where they apply (city code, county code, etc.)
When they were adopted by your local ordinance
Who enforces it (there is often some discretion for the code enforcement officer regarding violations)
I checked with my local guidelines prior to starting (if you don’t find one for your city, start researching the county, and so on). By comparison to what I’ve found, my county seems to be on the less restrictive side. For example, one of my friends just informed me that he needed a permit in his city just to have a new range installed in his kitchen! So, this is definitely a situation where the best answer of whether or not a permit will be needed is, “it depends.” Regardless, I’m doing my best to build things smart and structurally sound, permit or no (the shed as well).
Next
So, that was a really long intro, and we haven’t even started building yet! But in the next post of the series, I’ll show you how I went from the initial design:
To an actual framework:
Keep ya posted!
The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.
More Where That Came From
How to Identify Poison Ivy, Prevent Exposure, ...
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DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout
I’m building a floating deck in my back yard! This is the very first post of this series, but you will be able to catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.
Hey there! This post (or post series, rather) has been a long time coming. It’s a little tricky to do a large project like this and then share it on the blog, mainly because the project itself can be quite tiring, and breaking it into beneficial chunks takes a little time to do it right. It’s almost like building it all a second time, except fewer last-minute changes and less muscle soreness.
All that just to say, bear with me as we go through these posts. My main goal is to help clear the fog on the where/what/why, and a lot of these decisions are specific to dealing with unique challenges of my yard (sloping, building over/around a concrete patio, etc.). But if you wind up having questions as I go, I’ll try address them in future posts!
Legal disclaimer stuff: this is a personal recap, and the evolution of what I learn as I work on projects in my home. In hindsight, I often think of how I could have done something better. By no means is it a comprehensive guide for every scenario. No two houses are alike, and building codes/permitting rules vary. You will still need to research and make the best possible decision for your own home. I’m not a licensed professional. Reading and using any and all information is at your own risk. Power tools are dangerous and can kill you. Use protective safety gear, always. Don’t feed your dog chocolate, don’t stick keys in the electrical socket, and so on.
Backyard upgrades (to get to this point)
If you’ve been following along for a while, then you already know a lot of this. But for those that don’t, for the longest time with this house, I’ve been focusing a lot on the interior. I supposed that’s a pretty normal habit. We are more likely to first change the things we interact with everyday, like the kitchen, before we start fixing the part that can be more easily ignored, like the overgrown bushes in the back yard.
Each year, I dedicated a little time toward making progress, but it was hard to see (pun-intended) the forest for the trees. I killed off ivy, removed a bunch of pine trees, filled in a sinkhole, and started making cosmetic improvements (a back hedge, fire pit, corner garden, etc.). All of a sudden, late last year, things really started to click; it was time to begin the two big projects I’ve always wanted to do. As with any project, it was a matter of money, time, labor, and research. It can all seem pretty overwhelming until you get started, and I am VERY good at procrastinating when I have a lot of logical reasons to postpone at my disposal!
Timing and budgeting: a juggling act
I knew I wanted to build a shed for extra storage toward the back of my lot and began planning for that last summer (which is also underway, but that build has its own separate series). I also wanted to eventually build a floating deck off of the existing concrete slab next to the house.
Originally, I thought these projects would happen in completely different timelines. But as I was planning, I managed to bring a sponsor onboard for the shed. It’s not always easy to have the right fit come along when you are trying to plan seasonally/budget/etc., so a huge thank-you to Wood Its Real for that help! I realized that, since I had been saving up the funds already, I could basically maximize the benefits of the budget if I did both projects in one short, blazing summer of building. A lot of materials crossed over between the builds, so I reasoned that purchasing bulk amounts would be cheaper and I could save on the cost of rentals, if any. Plus, working with the same materials, I would be able to cross over the skills from one build to the next. I sketched up a quick version of how I thought everything would be done.
This seemed like a great option if I could also somehow convince K to help me design and plan it. It would be well worth the effort, I reasoned, provided that we didn’t manage to kill each other with all the sharp power tools at our disposal (thankfully, he’s a design engineer professionally and likes power tools as much as I do, so it was an easy sell). But to do any of it, we needed an actual, proper plan.
Design
I wanted the new build to create a natural flow from the patio door to the deck, from the deck to the fire pit, and so on. This would maximize the yard for an open, entertaining feel, while still giving everything separate zones.
Patio = grill spot
New deck = seating area
Fire pit = fire pit shenanigans
It’s kind of a lot to fit into a single space and around the only remaining tree in the yard. Even though I removed most of the trees, I kept the central one because it makes for a natural anchor for all the new lighting that will tie everything together (patio lights make everything better!). The sketch I created seemed to make sense of everything, including the new shed, room for a vegetable garden, and so on. But as I started marking things out in the yard, I realized that extending the patio as large as I sketched out would be WAY too big.
With K’s help, we came up with an even better plan:
Although this deck design doesn’t run the full length of the existing patio, I like that it sits perfectly between the patio and fire pit. The right corner of the new deck plan is at an angle, which allows for the mower to fit in between (really. important. thing. for K; I won’t fight it, since I win by not having to mow). It keeps the shed/garden zone a little more separate from the patio and deck, but still cohesive. The step up from the existing patio and step down from the deck to the fire pit will be parallel.
Slope challenges
As of 2016, my yard is filled in, but there is still a slope toward the back. I planned it this way for good reason: water runoff. The neighbor to my left is higher in elevation than all the others, so rainwater flows in a single direction in and out of my yard. If I had graded it any differently, I would risk disrupting that water flow, even jeopardizing the fill dirt by seeing it erode right back out of my yard. I planted a hedge line in the lower area as well to anticipate stemming future erosion problems, too.
Patios and just about anything in the yard have a slight slope for the same reason. I confirmed this with a level on my own patio, and the right corner is the lowest spot. The plan has been to continue that same slope on the new deck. So, it won’t be perfectly level, but it also won’t be noticeable.
Foundation
To help build the foundation but account for leveling, sloping, etc., I did some research and found that the best (and most readily-available) fit seems to be precast pier blocks (aka deck blocks or Handi-blocks).
I also briefly considered TuffBlock (same concept, but more lightweight material). They seem much lighter and might avoid more digging, but I couldn’t find many examples of it in use on uneven ground and the supply would have been special order. Since the concrete version is in stock at Home Depot and Lowe’s, I did most of my research on these before choosing them. I think I’ll give them a try if I ever do this project again (with a new house or working on a friend’s, etc.).
In either case, these have a notch on top that fits a 2x- or 4×4 post. Since the floating deck will sit on or partially hover over the ground, I am putting them in for extra support. Where they are too high to sit on the ground, I’m digging them down partially into the dirt. On the farthest corner (closest to the fire pit), it’s actually not tall enough even when sitting on the ground, so one 4×4 post is needed there. On top of these, there will be a framework of 2×6 lumber and then the deck boards. And me, awkwardly doing bad yoga (completing steps on building a deck puts me in a goofy mood).
Ground contact lumber
One important piece of info: since most of the new deck is touching the ground, the entire support structure (everything but the deck boards) will be made from “ground contact” lumber. In my research for these projects, I discovered that there are new standards as of 2016 for treated lumber and outdoor projects. You may already know of “pre-treated/PT” lumber, which is lumber that has been chemically treated to withstand outdoor conditions better than bare wood (recommended for just about any project exposed to the elements). But now, there is a new standard, and stores are starting to carry more and more “gound contact” or “GC” pre-treated lumber.
The main difference is where you plan to use it. Here is a graphic that breaks it down depending on use (along with more details), but here’s an easy rule: if it’s anything touching the ground or within 6 inches of the ground, it should be made with ground contact lumber.
If it’s exposed to more moisture, use ground contact. If it’s something that will be difficult to reach or repair: ground contact. If it’s smarter than the average bear… ground contact.
I’ll cover a few more facts about GC lumber and even PT lumber in general as this series goes on, but there are so many details to cover! This is important enough to cover in more depth, but I don’t want to throw too many details into this initial post until I can show more of the build as examples.
Partially covering the patio
As you can see from that digital rendering above, part of the new deck will cover a small corner of the existing patio. I found this tutorial from Family Handyman, and I plan to use some of the same ideas. Basically, I’ll be attaching some 2×4 supports to the patio (using ground contact lumber once again), and the deck will go over the whole thing.
Water buildup between the concrete pad and the wood will rot wood faster, even if it’s treated. So, extra efforts will be made to raise the framework in that spot with plastic shims.
Water is the enemy
Let’s see here: ground contact lumber, slope, plastic/flashing, drainage… basically every part of this plan has fighting water in common! So far, I’ve learned that water is my biggest concern. I may actually overdo it with all of the ways I’m planning to handle it, but I hope through this process that my deck lasts a good long while.
Permits
I know this question will probably pop up a few times. I didn’t get a building permit for the deck and didn’t appear to need one (after researching it for a confusingly long time). Even though there are standards (IRC and others) that are adopted by many states, the whole thing is rather complex and took time to figure out the who/what/where/when (yes, that all matters):
What the codes are (there are multiple standards/guidelines that might be used to determine what is adopted)
Where they apply (city code, county code, etc.)
When they were adopted by your local ordinance
Who enforces it (there is often some discretion for the code enforcement officer regarding violations)
I checked with my local guidelines prior to starting (if you don’t find one for your city, start researching the county, and so on). By comparison to what I’ve found, my county seems to be on the less restrictive side. For example, one of my friends just informed me that he needed a permit in his city just to have a new range installed in his kitchen! So, this is definitely a situation where the best answer of whether or not a permit will be needed is, “it depends.” Regardless, I’m doing my best to build things smart and structurally sound, permit or no (the shed as well).
Next
So, that was a really long intro, and we haven’t even started building yet! But in the next post of the series, I’ll show you how I went from the initial design:
To an actual framework:
Keep ya posted!
The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.
More Where That Came From
How to Identify Poison Ivy, Prevent Exposure, ...
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DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout
I’m building a floating deck in my back yard! This is the very first post of this series, but you will be able to catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.
Hey there! This post (or post series, rather) has been a long time coming. It’s a little tricky to do a large project like this and then share it on the blog, mainly because the project itself can be quite tiring, and breaking it into beneficial chunks takes a little time to do it right. It’s almost like building it all a second time, except fewer last-minute changes and less muscle soreness.
All that just to say, bear with me as we go through these posts. My main goal is to help clear the fog on the where/what/why, and a lot of these decisions are specific to dealing with unique challenges of my yard (sloping, building over/around a concrete patio, etc.). But if you wind up having questions as I go, I’ll try address them in future posts!
Legal disclaimer stuff: this is a personal recap, and the evolution of what I learn as I work on projects in my home. In hindsight, I often think of how I could have done something better. By no means is it a comprehensive guide for every scenario. No two houses are alike, and building codes/permitting rules vary. You will still need to research and make the best possible decision for your own home. I’m not a licensed professional. Reading and using any and all information is at your own risk. Power tools are dangerous and can kill you. Use protective safety gear, always. Don’t feed your dog chocolate, don’t stick keys in the electrical socket, and so on.
Backyard upgrades (to get to this point)
If you’ve been following along for a while, then you already know a lot of this. But for those that don’t, for the longest time with this house, I’ve been focusing a lot on the interior. I supposed that’s a pretty normal habit. We are more likely to first change the things we interact with everyday, like the kitchen, before we start fixing the part that can be more easily ignored, like the overgrown bushes in the back yard.
Each year, I dedicated a little time toward making progress, but it was hard to see (pun-intended) the forest for the trees. I killed off ivy, removed a bunch of pine trees, filled in a sinkhole, and started making cosmetic improvements (a back hedge, fire pit, corner garden, etc.). All of a sudden, late last year, things really started to click; it was time to begin the two big projects I’ve always wanted to do. As with any project, it was a matter of money, time, labor, and research. It can all seem pretty overwhelming until you get started, and I am VERY good at procrastinating when I have a lot of logical reasons to postpone at my disposal!
Timing and budgeting: a juggling act
I knew I wanted to build a shed for extra storage toward the back of my lot and began planning for that last summer (which is also underway, but that build has its own separate series). I also wanted to eventually build a floating deck off of the existing concrete slab next to the house.
Originally, I thought these projects would happen in completely different timelines. But as I was planning, I managed to bring a sponsor onboard for the shed. It’s not always easy to have the right fit come along when you are trying to plan seasonally/budget/etc., so a huge thank-you to Wood Its Real for that help! I realized that, since I had been saving up the funds already, I could basically maximize the benefits of the budget if I did both projects in one short, blazing summer of building. A lot of materials crossed over between the builds, so I reasoned that purchasing bulk amounts would be cheaper and I could save on the cost of rentals, if any. Plus, working with the same materials, I would be able to cross over the skills from one build to the next. I sketched up a quick version of how I thought everything would be done.
This seemed like a great option if I could also somehow convince K to help me design and plan it. It would be well worth the effort, I reasoned, provided that we didn’t manage to kill each other with all the sharp power tools at our disposal (thankfully, he’s a design engineer professionally and likes power tools as much as I do, so it was an easy sell). But to do any of it, we needed an actual, proper plan.
Design
I wanted the new build to create a natural flow from the patio door to the deck, from the deck to the fire pit, and so on. This would maximize the yard for an open, entertaining feel, while still giving everything separate zones.
Patio = grill spot
New deck = seating area
Fire pit = fire pit shenanigans
It’s kind of a lot to fit into a single space and around the only remaining tree in the yard. Even though I removed most of the trees, I kept the central one because it makes for a natural anchor for all the new lighting that will tie everything together (patio lights make everything better!). The sketch I created seemed to make sense of everything, including the new shed, room for a vegetable garden, and so on. But as I started marking things out in the yard, I realized that extending the patio as large as I sketched out would be WAY too big.
With K’s help, we came up with an even better plan:
Although this deck design doesn’t run the full length of the existing patio, I like that it sits perfectly between the patio and fire pit. The right corner of the new deck plan is at an angle, which allows for the mower to fit in between (really. important. thing. for K; I won’t fight it, since I win by not having to mow). It keeps the shed/garden zone a little more separate from the patio and deck, but still cohesive. The step up from the existing patio and step down from the deck to the fire pit will be parallel.
Slope challenges
As of 2016, my yard is filled in, but there is still a slope toward the back. I planned it this way for good reason: water runoff. The neighbor to my left is higher in elevation than all the others, so rainwater flows in a single direction in and out of my yard. If I had graded it any differently, I would risk disrupting that water flow, even jeopardizing the fill dirt by seeing it erode right back out of my yard. I planted a hedge line in the lower area as well to anticipate stemming future erosion problems, too.
Patios and just about anything in the yard have a slight slope for the same reason. I confirmed this with a level on my own patio, and the right corner is the lowest spot. The plan has been to continue that same slope on the new deck. So, it won’t be perfectly level, but it also won’t be noticeable.
Foundation
To help build the foundation but account for leveling, sloping, etc., I did some research and found that the best (and most readily-available) fit seems to be precast pier blocks (aka deck blocks or Handi-blocks).
I also briefly considered TuffBlock (same concept, but more lightweight material). They seem much lighter and might avoid more digging, but I couldn’t find many examples of it in use on uneven ground and the supply would have been special order. Since the concrete version is in stock at Home Depot and Lowe’s, I did most of my research on these before choosing them. I think I’ll give them a try if I ever do this project again (with a new house or working on a friend’s, etc.).
In either case, these have a notch on top that fits a 2x- or 4×4 post. Since the floating deck will sit on or partially hover over the ground, I am putting them in for extra support. Where they are too high to sit on the ground, I’m digging them down partially into the dirt. On the farthest corner (closest to the fire pit), it’s actually not tall enough even when sitting on the ground, so one 4×4 post is needed there. On top of these, there will be a framework of 2×6 lumber and then the deck boards. And me, awkwardly doing bad yoga (completing steps on building a deck puts me in a goofy mood).
Ground contact lumber
One important piece of info: since most of the new deck is touching the ground, the entire support structure (everything but the deck boards) will be made from “ground contact” lumber. In my research for these projects, I discovered that there are new standards as of 2016 for treated lumber and outdoor projects. You may already know of “pre-treated/PT” lumber, which is lumber that has been chemically treated to withstand outdoor conditions better than bare wood (recommended for just about any project exposed to the elements). But now, there is a new standard, and stores are starting to carry more and more “gound contact” or “GC” pre-treated lumber.
The main difference is where you plan to use it. Here is a graphic that breaks it down depending on use (along with more details), but here’s an easy rule: if it’s anything touching the ground or within 6 inches of the ground, it should be made with ground contact lumber.
If it’s exposed to more moisture, use ground contact. If it’s something that will be difficult to reach or repair: ground contact. If it’s smarter than the average bear… ground contact.
I’ll cover a few more facts about GC lumber and even PT lumber in general as this series goes on, but there are so many details to cover! This is important enough to cover in more depth, but I don’t want to throw too many details into this initial post until I can show more of the build as examples.
Partially covering the patio
As you can see from that digital rendering above, part of the new deck will cover a small corner of the existing patio. I found this tutorial from Family Handyman, and I plan to use some of the same ideas. Basically, I’ll be attaching some 2×4 supports to the patio (using ground contact lumber once again), and the deck will go over the whole thing.
Water buildup between the concrete pad and the wood will rot wood faster, even if it’s treated. So, extra efforts will be made to raise the framework in that spot with plastic shims.
Water is the enemy
Let’s see here: ground contact lumber, slope, plastic/flashing, drainage… basically every part of this plan has fighting water in common! So far, I’ve learned that water is my biggest concern. I may actually overdo it with all of the ways I’m planning to handle it, but I hope through this process that my deck lasts a good long while.
Permits
I know this question will probably pop up a few times. I didn’t get a building permit for the deck and didn’t appear to need one (after researching it for a confusingly long time). Even though there are standards (IRC and others) that are adopted by many states, the whole thing is rather complex and took time to figure out the who/what/where/when (yes, that all matters):
What the codes are (there are multiple standards/guidelines that might be used to determine what is adopted)
Where they apply (city code, county code, etc.)
When they were adopted by your local ordinance
Who enforces it (there is often some discretion for the code enforcement officer regarding violations)
I checked with my local guidelines prior to starting (if you don’t find one for your city, start researching the county, and so on). By comparison to what I’ve found, my county seems to be on the less restrictive side. For example, one of my friends just informed me that he needed a permit in his city just to have a new range installed in his kitchen! So, this is definitely a situation where the best answer of whether or not a permit will be needed is, “it depends.” Regardless, I’m doing my best to build things smart and structurally sound, permit or no (the shed as well).
Next
So, that was a really long intro, and we haven’t even started building yet! But in the next post of the series, I’ll show you how I went from the initial design:
To an actual framework:
Keep ya posted!
The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.
More Where That Came From
How to Identify Poison Ivy, Prevent Exposure, ...
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DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout
I’m building a floating deck in my back yard! This is the very first post of this series, but you will be able to catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.
Hey there! This post (or post series, rather) has been a long time coming. It’s a little tricky to do a large project like this and then share it on the blog, mainly because the project itself can be quite tiring, and breaking it into beneficial chunks takes a little time to do it right. It’s almost like building it all a second time, except fewer last-minute changes and less muscle soreness.
All that just to say, bear with me as we go through these posts. My main goal is to help clear the fog on the where/what/why, and a lot of these decisions are specific to dealing with unique challenges of my yard (sloping, building over/around a concrete patio, etc.). But if you wind up having questions as I go, I’ll try address them in future posts!
Legal disclaimer stuff: this is a personal recap, and the evolution of what I learn as I work on projects in my home. In hindsight, I often think of how I could have done something better. By no means is it a comprehensive guide for every scenario. No two houses are alike, and building codes/permitting rules vary. You will still need to research and make the best possible decision for your own home. I’m not a licensed professional. Reading and using any and all information is at your own risk. Power tools are dangerous and can kill you. Use protective safety gear, always. Don’t feed your dog chocolate, don’t stick keys in the electrical socket, and so on.
Backyard upgrades (to get to this point)
If you’ve been following along for a while, then you already know a lot of this. But for those that don’t, for the longest time with this house, I’ve been focusing a lot on the interior. I supposed that’s a pretty normal habit. We are more likely to first change the things we interact with everyday, like the kitchen, before we start fixing the part that can be more easily ignored, like the overgrown bushes in the back yard.
Each year, I dedicated a little time toward making progress, but it was hard to see (pun-intended) the forest for the trees. I killed off ivy, removed a bunch of pine trees, filled in a sinkhole, and started making cosmetic improvements (a back hedge, fire pit, corner garden, etc.). All of a sudden, late last year, things really started to click; it was time to begin the two big projects I’ve always wanted to do. As with any project, it was a matter of money, time, labor, and research. It can all seem pretty overwhelming until you get started, and I am VERY good at procrastinating when I have a lot of logical reasons to postpone at my disposal!
Timing and budgeting: a juggling act
I knew I wanted to build a shed for extra storage toward the back of my lot and began planning for that last summer (which is also underway, but that build has its own separate series). I also wanted to eventually build a floating deck off of the existing concrete slab next to the house.
Originally, I thought these projects would happen in completely different timelines. But as I was planning, I managed to bring a sponsor onboard for the shed. It’s not always easy to have the right fit come along when you are trying to plan seasonally/budget/etc., so a huge thank-you to Wood Its Real for that help! I realized that, since I had been saving up the funds already, I could basically maximize the benefits of the budget if I did both projects in one short, blazing summer of building. A lot of materials crossed over between the builds, so I reasoned that purchasing bulk amounts would be cheaper and I could save on the cost of rentals, if any. Plus, working with the same materials, I would be able to cross over the skills from one build to the next. I sketched up a quick version of how I thought everything would be done.
This seemed like a great option if I could also somehow convince K to help me design and plan it. It would be well worth the effort, I reasoned, provided that we didn’t manage to kill each other with all the sharp power tools at our disposal (thankfully, he’s a design engineer professionally and likes power tools as much as I do, so it was an easy sell). But to do any of it, we needed an actual, proper plan.
Design
I wanted the new build to create a natural flow from the patio door to the deck, from the deck to the fire pit, and so on. This would maximize the yard for an open, entertaining feel, while still giving everything separate zones.
Patio = grill spot
New deck = seating area
Fire pit = fire pit shenanigans
It’s kind of a lot to fit into a single space and around the only remaining tree in the yard. Even though I removed most of the trees, I kept the central one because it makes for a natural anchor for all the new lighting that will tie everything together (patio lights make everything better!). The sketch I created seemed to make sense of everything, including the new shed, room for a vegetable garden, and so on. But as I started marking things out in the yard, I realized that extending the patio as large as I sketched out would be WAY too big.
With K’s help, we came up with an even better plan:
Although this deck design doesn’t run the full length of the existing patio, I like that it sits perfectly between the patio and fire pit. The right corner of the new deck plan is at an angle, which allows for the mower to fit in between (really. important. thing. for K; I won’t fight it, since I win by not having to mow). It keeps the shed/garden zone a little more separate from the patio and deck, but still cohesive. The step up from the existing patio and step down from the deck to the fire pit will be parallel.
Slope challenges
As of 2016, my yard is filled in, but there is still a slope toward the back. I planned it this way for good reason: water runoff. The neighbor to my left is higher in elevation than all the others, so rainwater flows in a single direction in and out of my yard. If I had graded it any differently, I would risk disrupting that water flow, even jeopardizing the fill dirt by seeing it erode right back out of my yard. I planted a hedge line in the lower area as well to anticipate stemming future erosion problems, too.
Patios and just about anything in the yard have a slight slope for the same reason. I confirmed this with a level on my own patio, and the right corner is the lowest spot. The plan has been to continue that same slope on the new deck. So, it won’t be perfectly level, but it also won’t be noticeable.
Foundation
To help build the foundation but account for leveling, sloping, etc., I did some research and found that the best (and most readily-available) fit seems to be precast pier blocks (aka deck blocks or Handi-blocks).
I also briefly considered TuffBlock (same concept, but more lightweight material). They seem much lighter and might avoid more digging, but I couldn’t find many examples of it in use on uneven ground and the supply would have been special order. Since the concrete version is in stock at Home Depot and Lowe’s, I did most of my research on these before choosing them. I think I’ll give them a try if I ever do this project again (with a new house or working on a friend’s, etc.).
In either case, these have a notch on top that fits a 2x- or 4×4 post. Since the floating deck will sit on or partially hover over the ground, I am putting them in for extra support. Where they are too high to sit on the ground, I’m digging them down partially into the dirt. On the farthest corner (closest to the fire pit), it’s actually not tall enough even when sitting on the ground, so one 4×4 post is needed there. On top of these, there will be a framework of 2×6 lumber and then the deck boards. And me, awkwardly doing bad yoga (completing steps on building a deck puts me in a goofy mood).
Ground contact lumber
One important piece of info: since most of the new deck is touching the ground, the entire support structure (everything but the deck boards) will be made from “ground contact” lumber. In my research for these projects, I discovered that there are new standards as of 2016 for treated lumber and outdoor projects. You may already know of “pre-treated/PT” lumber, which is lumber that has been chemically treated to withstand outdoor conditions better than bare wood (recommended for just about any project exposed to the elements). But now, there is a new standard, and stores are starting to carry more and more “gound contact” or “GC” pre-treated lumber.
The main difference is where you plan to use it. Here is a graphic that breaks it down depending on use (along with more details), but here’s an easy rule: if it’s anything touching the ground or within 6 inches of the ground, it should be made with ground contact lumber.
If it’s exposed to more moisture, use ground contact. If it’s something that will be difficult to reach or repair: ground contact. If it’s smarter than the average bear… ground contact.
I’ll cover a few more facts about GC lumber and even PT lumber in general as this series goes on, but there are so many details to cover! This is important enough to cover in more depth, but I don’t want to throw too many details into this initial post until I can show more of the build as examples.
Partially covering the patio
As you can see from that digital rendering above, part of the new deck will cover a small corner of the existing patio. I found this tutorial from Family Handyman, and I plan to use some of the same ideas. Basically, I’ll be attaching some 2×4 supports to the patio (using ground contact lumber once again), and the deck will go over the whole thing.
Water buildup between the concrete pad and the wood will rot wood faster, even if it’s treated. So, extra efforts will be made to raise the framework in that spot with plastic shims.
Water is the enemy
Let’s see here: ground contact lumber, slope, plastic/flashing, drainage… basically every part of this plan has fighting water in common! So far, I’ve learned that water is my biggest concern. I may actually overdo it with all of the ways I’m planning to handle it, but I hope through this process that my deck lasts a good long while.
Permits
I know this question will probably pop up a few times. I didn’t get a building permit for the deck and didn’t appear to need one (after researching it for a confusingly long time). Even though there are standards (IRC and others) that are adopted by many states, the whole thing is rather complex and took time to figure out the who/what/where/when (yes, that all matters):
What the codes are (there are multiple standards/guidelines that might be used to determine what is adopted)
Where they apply (city code, county code, etc.)
When they were adopted by your local ordinance
Who enforces it (there is often some discretion for the code enforcement officer regarding violations)
I checked with my local guidelines prior to starting (if you don’t find one for your city, start researching the county, and so on). By comparison to what I’ve found, my county seems to be on the less restrictive side. For example, one of my friends just informed me that he needed a permit in his city just to have a new range installed in his kitchen! So, this is definitely a situation where the best answer of whether or not a permit will be needed is, “it depends.” Regardless, I’m doing my best to build things smart and structurally sound, permit or no (the shed as well).
Next
So, that was a really long intro, and we haven’t even started building yet! But in the next post of the series, I’ll show you how I went from the initial design:
To an actual framework:
Keep ya posted!
The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.
More Where That Came From
How to Identify Poison Ivy, Prevent Exposure, ...
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DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout
I'm building a floating deck in my back yard! This is the very first post of this series, but you will be able to catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.
Hey there! This post (or post series, rather) has been a long time coming. It's a little tricky to do a large project like this and then share it on the blog, mainly because the project itself can be quite tiring, and breaking it into beneficial chunks takes a little time to do it right. It's almost like building it all a second time, except fewer last-minute changes and less muscle soreness.
All that just to say, bear with me as we go through these posts. My main goal is to help clear the fog on the where/what/why, and a lot of these decisions are specific to dealing with unique challenges of my yard (sloping, building over/around a concrete patio, etc.). But if you wind up having questions as I go, I'll try address them in future posts!
Legal disclaimer stuff: this is a personal recap, and the evolution of what I learn as I work on projects in my home. In hindsight, I often think of how I could have done something better. By no means is it a comprehensive guide for every scenario. No two houses are alike, and building codes/permitting rules vary. You will still need to research and make the best possible decision for your own home. I'm not a licensed professional. Reading and using any and all information is at your own risk. Power tools are dangerous and can kill you. Use protective safety gear, always. Don't feed your dog chocolate, don't stick keys in the electrical socket, and so on.
Backyard upgrades (to get to this point)
If you've been following along for a while, then you already know a lot of this. But for those that don't, for the longest time with this house, I've been focusing a lot on the interior. I supposed that's a pretty normal habit. We are more likely to first change the things we interact with everyday, like the kitchen, before we start fixing the part that can be more easily ignored, like the overgrown bushes in the back yard.
Each year, I dedicated a little time toward making progress, but it was hard to see (pun-intended) the forest for the trees. I killed off ivy, removed a bunch of pine trees, filled in a sinkhole, and started making cosmetic improvements (a back hedge, fire pit, corner garden, etc.). All of a sudden, late last year, things really started to click; it was time to begin the two big projects I've always wanted to do. As with any project, it was a matter of money, time, labor, and research. It can all seem pretty overwhelming until you get started, and I am VERY good at procrastinating when I have a lot of logical reasons to postpone at my disposal!
Timing and budgeting: a juggling act
I knew I wanted to build a shed for extra storage toward the back of my lot and began planning for that last summer (which is also underway, but that build has its own separate series). I also wanted to eventually build a floating deck off of the existing concrete slab next to the house.
Originally, I thought these projects would happen in completely different timelines. But as I was planning, I managed to bring a sponsor onboard for the shed. It's not always easy to have the right fit come along when you are trying to plan seasonally/budget/etc., so a huge thank-you to Wood Its Real for that help! I realized that, since I had been saving up the funds already, I could basically maximize the benefits of the budget if I did both projects in one short, blazing summer of building. A lot of materials crossed over between the builds, so I reasoned that purchasing bulk amounts would be cheaper and I could save on the cost of rentals, if any. Plus, working with the same materials, I would be able to cross over the skills from one build to the next. I sketched up a quick version of how I thought everything would be done.
This seemed like a great option if I could also somehow convince K to help me design and plan it. It would be well worth the effort, I reasoned, provided that we didn't manage to kill each other with all the sharp power tools at our disposal (thankfully, he's a design engineer professionally and likes power tools as much as I do, so it was an easy sell). But to do any of it, we needed an actual, proper plan.
Design
I wanted the new build to create a natural flow from the patio door to the deck, from the deck to the fire pit, and so on. This would maximize the yard for an open, entertaining feel, while still giving everything separate zones.
Patio = grill spot
New deck = seating area
Fire pit = fire pit shenanigans
It's kind of a lot to fit into a single space and around the only remaining tree in the yard. Even though I removed most of the trees, I kept the central one because it makes for a natural anchor for all the new lighting that will tie everything together (patio lights make everything better!). The sketch I created seemed to make sense of everything, including the new shed, room for a vegetable garden, and so on. But as I started marking things out in the yard, I realized that extending the patio as large as I sketched out would be WAY too big.
With K's help, we came up with an even better plan:
Although this deck design doesn't run the full length of the existing patio, I like that it sits perfectly between the patio and fire pit. The right corner of the new deck plan is at an angle, which allows for the mower to fit in between (really. important. thing. for K; I won't fight it, since I win by not having to mow). It keeps the shed/garden zone a little more separate from the patio and deck, but still cohesive. The step up from the existing patio and step down from the deck to the fire pit will be parallel.
Slope challenges
As of 2016, my yard is filled in, but there is still a slope toward the back. I planned it this way for good reason: water runoff. The neighbor to my left is higher in elevation than all the others, so rainwater flows in a single direction in and out of my yard. If I had graded it any differently, I would risk disrupting that water flow, even jeopardizing the fill dirt by seeing it erode right back out of my yard. I planted a hedge line in the lower area as well to anticipate stemming future erosion problems, too.
Patios and just about anything in the yard have a slight slope for the same reason. I confirmed this with a level on my own patio, and the right corner is the lowest spot. The plan has been to continue that same slope on the new deck. So, it won't be perfectly level, but it also won't be noticeable.
Foundation
To help build the foundation but account for leveling, sloping, etc., I did some research and found that the best (and most readily-available) fit seems to be precast pier blocks (aka deck blocks or Handi-blocks).
I also briefly considered TuffBlock (same concept, but more lightweight material). They seem much lighter and might avoid more digging, but I couldn't find many examples of it in use on uneven ground and the supply would have been special order. Since the concrete version is in stock at Home Depot and Lowe's, I did most of my research on these before choosing them. I think I'll give them a try if I ever do this project again (with a new house or working on a friend's, etc.).
In either case, these have a notch on top that fits a 2x- or 4×4 post. Since the floating deck will sit on or partially hover over the ground, I am putting them in for extra support. Where they are too high to sit on the ground, I'm digging them down partially into the dirt. On the farthest corner (closest to the fire pit), it's actually not tall enough even when sitting on the ground, so one 4×4 post is needed there. On top of these, there will be a framework of 2×6 lumber and then the deck boards. And me, awkwardly doing bad yoga (completing steps on building a deck puts me in a goofy mood).
Ground contact lumber
One important piece of info: since most of the new deck is touching the ground, the entire support structure (everything but the deck boards) will be made from “ground contact” lumber. In my research for these projects, I discovered that there are new standards as of 2016 for treated lumber and outdoor projects. You may already know of “pre-treated/PT” lumber, which is lumber that has been chemically treated to withstand outdoor conditions better than bare wood (recommended for just about any project exposed to the elements). But now, there is a new standard, and stores are starting to carry more and more “gound contact” or “GC” pre-treated lumber.
The main difference is where you plan to use it. Here is a graphic that breaks it down depending on use (along with more details), but here's an easy rule: if it's anything touching the ground or within 6 inches of the ground, it should be made with ground contact lumber.
If it's exposed to more moisture, use ground contact. If it's something that will be difficult to reach or repair: ground contact. If it's smarter than the average bear… ground contact.
I'll cover a few more facts about GC lumber and even PT lumber in general as this series goes on, but there are so many details to cover! This is important enough to cover in more depth, but I don't want to throw too many details into this initial post until I can show more of the build as examples.
Partially covering the patio
As you can see from that digital rendering above, part of the new deck will cover a small corner of the existing patio. I found this tutorial from Family Handyman, and I plan to use some of the same ideas. Basically, I'll be attaching some 2×4 supports to the patio (using ground contact lumber once again), and the deck will go over the whole thing.
Water buildup between the concrete pad and the wood will rot wood faster, even if it's treated. So, extra efforts will be made to raise the framework in that spot with plastic shims.
Water is the enemy
Let's see here: ground contact lumber, slope, plastic/flashing, drainage… basically every part of this plan has fighting water in common! So far, I've learned that water is my biggest concern. I may actually overdo it with all of the ways I'm planning to handle it, but I hope through this process that my deck lasts a good long while.
Permits
I know this question will probably pop up a few times. I didn't get a building permit for the deck and didn't appear to need one (after researching it for a confusingly long time). Even though there are standards (IRC and others) that are adopted by many states, the whole thing is rather complex and took time to figure out the who/what/where/when (yes, that all matters):
What the codes are (there are multiple standards/guidelines that might be used to determine what is adopted)
Where they apply (city code, county code, etc.)
When they were adopted by your local ordinance
Who enforces it (there is often some discretion for the code enforcement officer regarding violations)
I checked with my local guidelines prior to starting (if you don't find one for your city, start researching the county, and so on). By comparison to what I've found, my county seems to be on the less restrictive side. For example, one of my friends just informed me that he needed a permit in his city just to have a new range installed in his kitchen! So, this is definitely a situation where the best answer of whether or not a permit will be needed is, “it depends.” Regardless, I'm doing my best to build things smart and structurally sound, permit or no (the shed as well).
Next
So, that was a really long intro, and we haven't even started building yet! But in the next post of the series, I'll show you how I went from the initial design:
To an actual framework:
Keep ya posted!
The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.
More Where That Came From
How to Identify Poison Ivy, Prevent Exposure, ...
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DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout
I’m building a floating deck in my back yard! This is the very first post of this series, but you will be able to catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.
Hey there! This post (or post series, rather) has been a long time coming. It’s a little tricky to do a large project like this and then share it on the blog, mainly because the project itself can be quite tiring, and breaking it into beneficial chunks takes a little time to do it right. It’s almost like building it all a second time, except fewer last-minute changes and less muscle soreness.
All that just to say, bear with me as we go through these posts. My main goal is to help clear the fog on the where/what/why, and a lot of these decisions are specific to dealing with unique challenges of my yard (sloping, building over/around a concrete patio, etc.). But if you wind up having questions as I go, I’ll try address them in future posts!
Legal disclaimer stuff: this is a personal recap, and the evolution of what I learn as I work on projects in my home. In hindsight, I often think of how I could have done something better. By no means is it a comprehensive guide for every scenario. No two houses are alike, and building codes/permitting rules vary. You will still need to research and make the best possible decision for your own home. I’m not a licensed professional. Reading and using any and all information is at your own risk. Power tools are dangerous and can kill you. Use protective safety gear, always. Don’t feed your dog chocolate, don’t stick keys in the electrical socket, and so on.
Backyard upgrades (to get to this point)
If you’ve been following along for a while, then you already know a lot of this. But for those that don’t, for the longest time with this house, I’ve been focusing a lot on the interior. I supposed that’s a pretty normal habit. We are more likely to first change the things we interact with everyday, like the kitchen, before we start fixing the part that can be more easily ignored, like the overgrown bushes in the back yard.
Each year, I dedicated a little time toward making progress, but it was hard to see (pun-intended) the forest for the trees. I killed off ivy, removed a bunch of pine trees, filled in a sinkhole, and started making cosmetic improvements (a back hedge, fire pit, corner garden, etc.). All of a sudden, late last year, things really started to click; it was time to begin the two big projects I’ve always wanted to do. As with any project, it was a matter of money, time, labor, and research. It can all seem pretty overwhelming until you get started, and I am VERY good at procrastinating when I have a lot of logical reasons to postpone at my disposal!
Timing and budgeting: a juggling act
I knew I wanted to build a shed for extra storage toward the back of my lot and began planning for that last summer (which is also underway, but that build has its own separate series). I also wanted to eventually build a floating deck off of the existing concrete slab next to the house.
Originally, I thought these projects would happen in completely different timelines. But as I was planning, I managed to bring a sponsor onboard for the shed. It’s not always easy to have the right fit come along when you are trying to plan seasonally/budget/etc., so a huge thank-you to Wood Its Real for that help! I realized that, since I had been saving up the funds already, I could basically maximize the benefits of the budget if I did both projects in one short, blazing summer of building. A lot of materials crossed over between the builds, so I reasoned that purchasing bulk amounts would be cheaper and I could save on the cost of rentals, if any. Plus, working with the same materials, I would be able to cross over the skills from one build to the next. I sketched up a quick version of how I thought everything would be done.
This seemed like a great option if I could also somehow convince K to help me design and plan it. It would be well worth the effort, I reasoned, provided that we didn’t manage to kill each other with all the sharp power tools at our disposal (thankfully, he’s a design engineer professionally and likes power tools as much as I do, so it was an easy sell). But to do any of it, we needed an actual, proper plan.
Design
I wanted the new build to create a natural flow from the patio door to the deck, from the deck to the fire pit, and so on. This would maximize the yard for an open, entertaining feel, while still giving everything separate zones.
Patio = grill spot
New deck = seating area
Fire pit = fire pit shenanigans
It’s kind of a lot to fit into a single space and around the only remaining tree in the yard. Even though I removed most of the trees, I kept the central one because it makes for a natural anchor for all the new lighting that will tie everything together (patio lights make everything better!). The sketch I created seemed to make sense of everything, including the new shed, room for a vegetable garden, and so on. But as I started marking things out in the yard, I realized that extending the patio as large as I sketched out would be WAY too big.
With K’s help, we came up with an even better plan:
Although this deck design doesn’t run the full length of the existing patio, I like that it sits perfectly between the patio and fire pit. The right corner of the new deck plan is at an angle, which allows for the mower to fit in between (really. important. thing. for K; I won’t fight it, since I win by not having to mow). It keeps the shed/garden zone a little more separate from the patio and deck, but still cohesive. The step up from the existing patio and step down from the deck to the fire pit will be parallel.
Slope challenges
As of 2016, my yard is filled in, but there is still a slope toward the back. I planned it this way for good reason: water runoff. The neighbor to my left is higher in elevation than all the others, so rainwater flows in a single direction in and out of my yard. If I had graded it any differently, I would risk disrupting that water flow, even jeopardizing the fill dirt by seeing it erode right back out of my yard. I planted a hedge line in the lower area as well to anticipate stemming future erosion problems, too.
Patios and just about anything in the yard have a slight slope for the same reason. I confirmed this with a level on my own patio, and the right corner is the lowest spot. The plan has been to continue that same slope on the new deck. So, it won’t be perfectly level, but it also won’t be noticeable.
Foundation
To help build the foundation but account for leveling, sloping, etc., I did some research and found that the best (and most readily-available) fit seems to be precast pier blocks (aka deck blocks or Handi-blocks).
I also briefly considered TuffBlock (same concept, but more lightweight material). They seem much lighter and might avoid more digging, but I couldn’t find many examples of it in use on uneven ground and the supply would have been special order. Since the concrete version is in stock at Home Depot and Lowe’s, I did most of my research on these before choosing them. I think I’ll give them a try if I ever do this project again (with a new house or working on a friend’s, etc.).
In either case, these have a notch on top that fits a 2x- or 4×4 post. Since the floating deck will sit on or partially hover over the ground, I am putting them in for extra support. Where they are too high to sit on the ground, I’m digging them down partially into the dirt. On the farthest corner (closest to the fire pit), it’s actually not tall enough even when sitting on the ground, so one 4×4 post is needed there. On top of these, there will be a framework of 2×6 lumber and then the deck boards. And me, awkwardly doing bad yoga (completing steps on building a deck puts me in a goofy mood).
Ground contact lumber
One important piece of info: since most of the new deck is touching the ground, the entire support structure (everything but the deck boards) will be made from “ground contact” lumber. In my research for these projects, I discovered that there are new standards as of 2016 for treated lumber and outdoor projects. You may already know of “pre-treated/PT” lumber, which is lumber that has been chemically treated to withstand outdoor conditions better than bare wood (recommended for just about any project exposed to the elements). But now, there is a new standard, and stores are starting to carry more and more “gound contact” or “GC” pre-treated lumber.
The main difference is where you plan to use it. Here is a graphic that breaks it down depending on use (along with more details), but here’s an easy rule: if it’s anything touching the ground or within 6 inches of the ground, it should be made with ground contact lumber.
If it’s exposed to more moisture, use ground contact. If it’s something that will be difficult to reach or repair: ground contact. If it’s smarter than the average bear… ground contact.
I’ll cover a few more facts about GC lumber and even PT lumber in general as this series goes on, but there are so many details to cover! This is important enough to cover in more depth, but I don’t want to throw too many details into this initial post until I can show more of the build as examples.
Partially covering the patio
As you can see from that digital rendering above, part of the new deck will cover a small corner of the existing patio. I found this tutorial from Family Handyman, and I plan to use some of the same ideas. Basically, I’ll be attaching some 2×4 supports to the patio (using ground contact lumber once again), and the deck will go over the whole thing.
Water buildup between the concrete pad and the wood will rot wood faster, even if it’s treated. So, extra efforts will be made to raise the framework in that spot with plastic shims.
Water is the enemy
Let’s see here: ground contact lumber, slope, plastic/flashing, drainage… basically every part of this plan has fighting water in common! So far, I’ve learned that water is my biggest concern. I may actually overdo it with all of the ways I’m planning to handle it, but I hope through this process that my deck lasts a good long while.
Permits
I know this question will probably pop up a few times. I didn’t get a building permit for the deck and didn’t appear to need one (after researching it for a confusingly long time). Even though there are standards (IRC and others) that are adopted by many states, the whole thing is rather complex and took time to figure out the who/what/where/when (yes, that all matters):
What the codes are (there are multiple standards/guidelines that might be used to determine what is adopted)
Where they apply (city code, county code, etc.)
When they were adopted by your local ordinance
Who enforces it (there is often some discretion for the code enforcement officer regarding violations)
I checked with my local guidelines prior to starting (if you don’t find one for your city, start researching the county, and so on). By comparison to what I’ve found, my county seems to be on the less restrictive side. For example, one of my friends just informed me that he needed a permit in his city just to have a new range installed in his kitchen! So, this is definitely a situation where the best answer of whether or not a permit will be needed is, “it depends.” Regardless, I’m doing my best to build things smart and structurally sound, permit or no (the shed as well).
Next
So, that was a really long intro, and we haven’t even started building yet! But in the next post of the series, I’ll show you how I went from the initial design:
To an actual framework:
Keep ya posted!
The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.
DIY Floating Deck, Part 1: Planning and Layout published first on https://landscapingmates.blogspot.com
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Professional Tree Company For Removing Tree Roots
Professional Tree Company For Removing Tree Roots
tree roots removal
Many older homes and buildings have this problem. They have many mature trees and these trees have root systems that are unsightly and that have caused damage. When this is a problem that you have the only way to solve it is why hiring a professional company who has experience solving these kinds of issues. A professional company will know exactly what to do and they’ll be able to solve this problem relatively quickly for you. The emphasis is on finding a professional tree company for removing tree roots. A professional company will have a set of attributes that are very important. You only want to do business with the company who has a very good reputation in the industry and you also want them to have very good prices, the type of prices that you can easily afford.
Professional Tree Removal Service, Not a waste of Time
tree root removal service
Once you find a professional tree company removing tree roots is very easy. Your professional company will have all the equipment to get this quickly done as fast as possible. A professional tree removal service does not want to waste your time at all. They want to make sure that you get your service and that you get it quickly and professionally. They know that you don’t have time to waste and they don’t have time to waste either so they’re going to do this job the right way and they’re going to do it quickly.
A Tree Company that Offers Extra Service, An Access To An Arborist
One extra service that a professional tree company will have is that they will have access to an arborist and having an arborist at hand is very important because the root system of trees are very important. When you remove a mature tree root system you need to make sure that it isn’t going to cause any major damage to any other surrounding trees. Damaging a root system can cause a lot of issues. It can cause erosion to your yard, taking calls trees to fall down on your house are near your neighbor’s home. These are definitely things that you don’t want to happen at all and that is why a professional tree company will call an arborist when it comes to something that is going to be difficult. A company who is not as professional won’t even think about these things and they won’t even think about protecting you and even worse of all they might not have insurance to take care of the cost of any damage that their work might calls. This is why you only want to do business with and reputable company.
To get quick access to a reputable company, one who will handle things professionally, one who will watch out for both their professional interest and your personal interests, click through to the links that we have provided in this article. By doing so you will have a company who is the perfect partner for you when it comes to removing the tree roots that you want to have removed. Click through to that link and give that company a call today.
Tree Services Johns Creek
Source: http://www.gatreecompany.com/professional-tree-company-for-removing-tree-roots/
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Hey all! I hope that you’re having a fantastic week! I’m back with my first post of the summer. What better way to do that than to tell you about a new hobby of mine.
I’ve never really been one for plants. I mean, I love them, but keeping them alive has been my main problem. And when I first met Nicholas, he had a cactus in his kitchen..oh wait, I mean a dead cactus in his kitchen. My first thought was, “how on Earth do you kill a cactus?”
Neglect. Neglect is what killed that cactus.
So between my plant killing and his cactus neglect, we didn’t sound like a good gardening team. Like Kevin Hart said, “we didn’t look good as a unit” lol.
Anyway, I have really bad allergies and aside from every medications that make me sleepy, I needed some relief. I was now in the market for indoor plants that would purify the air. With a bit of research, I came across the Dracaena plant. It’s name is derived from the Ancient Greek word for “female dragon”, which is why I named it Daenerys (the mother of dragons). Game of Thrones fans will understand.
According to the site Top Tip Spot, the Dracaena “removes not only benzene and formaldehyde from the air, but also xylene and toluene” those sound like things that I don’t wanna breathe in, and this plant doesn’t need a lot of light of water…sounds right up my alley.
It’s doing great so far, and I’ve even added a couple more to the family. The next one that we bought was the Neon Pothos, I haven’t named this one yet, but I’m open to suggestions.
Then we found out about the cutest little garden shop here in our town called, Porches, with just one visit, you can’t help but fall in love with this place. The air in the store is fresh, because, duh, trees and plants galore! And the fact that oldies play in the background means this is a place I could spend a lot of time in. Check out their Facebook page here if you’d like more info #supportsmallbusiness. From Porches, we came home with another air purifying plant, The Spider plant, of course I had to name this one Peter Parker because if I didn’t name it after Spider Man, then what kind of person am I?
I can’t write this post without also mentioning the succulent plant that I managed to bring back from the brink of death. It was in the backyard, and I didn’t pay it much attention. The only way I can describe its appearance is that it looked like a dried up artichoke. With a little TLC (I sang ‘Waterfalls’ to it everyday…kidding!) With some Tender Loving Care, I was able to get it to not only open up and flourish, but to also grow a couple extra stalks? vines? I don’t know what they are, but it’s on a nice road to recovery.
I’m on a break from work, so I figured that this was the perfect time to get plants and learn as much as I can about them. I’ve become attached, so there is no other choice than to take care of them the very best that I can. I truly feel that my allergies and such reactions to those allergies have lessened. I don’t wake up as congested as I used to and that is a big deal. When I could only breathe out of one nostril, I realized how much I took advantage of my nasal passages. I fully appreciate them now, btw.
Of course now that I’ve got this new hobby, I want all of the things. I had to run out and buy a watering can, a little shovel that is just the cutest…I think next on my list is some gardening gloves. I don’t know why, but I’m just pretty sure I need them.
Because of the nice clean air, and the dash of natural home decor that these amazing plants bring, it’s hard not to feel like my mood is elevated and my energy has increased. Like Nicholas said, like fire, these plants “boost morale”.
Thank you so much for stopping by today, I’ll keep you updated with their progress in future posts. Have a great day! I’ll get back to trying to stay cool in this 108 degree weather that we are having today.
Thank you for reading,
My Thumb is Turning Green Hey all! I hope that you’re having a fantastic week! I’m back with my first post of the summer.
#2017#air purifying#allergies#blog#blogger#blogging#california#clean air#environment#family#green thumb#hobbies#home life#life#lifestyle#nature#plants#shopping#summer#wordpress
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