#the drink was ¥1000 and the cookies were ¥700

[drawnbinary]

Art 4 latte...

[chaletnz]

Tohoku Region: Sendai Castle & Yamagata

I woke up around 6am since I was unable to use my JR pass until after 10am (the ticket collection office only opened at 10am), so I needed to find alternative activities to cross off until then! I walked up a very steep hill to the Sendai Castle Ruins which was mostly just a few statues and a great view over the city. It seemed to be a popular jogging route as there were many people out early to get their exercise in but it was still very peaceful and quiet at the top. I went back for a shower and a sit down before preparing my day bag and then going for my first coffee in Sendai at Sendai Coffee Stand (maybe now it is also called Burger Lover). Annoyingly the first train to Yamagata was at 10.08 but I didn't think I'd have time to get the pass and get on the train within 8 minutes so I opted to sit in and enjoy my coffee and wait for the 11.18 train instead. The owner, Shinsuke, proudly made a latte and introduced himself. I gave him a stamp card I had in my wallet for Niseko Mountain Kiosk. He had a wall covered in stickers and business cards from cafes all over the world and he placed the one I'd given him up there too, and gave me one of his business cards in return. I walked to Sendai Station and collected my 5 day JR Tohoku Pass and hopped on the Senzan Line to Yamagata with some more reading material. My plan for the day was set, Yamadera (the mountain top temple) and then a nice looking trek around Omoshiroyama Kogen Gorge and then we'll see what time it is! Unfortunately while the shinkansen trains are frequent enough, all of these local lines only run about once an hour and some destinations I want to visit also require a bus to get to them so actually it will take more careful planning and very early mornings in order to get the main sights checked!

After riding through the noisiest tunnel with the tracks screeching, we emerged within the mountains and actually the train almost made it to Yamadera on schedule but I still needed to race to make up the time. I went as fast as I could and puffed myself up the 1000 steps to the temple. The first 400 felt like nothing but then it was tiring and by 700 it was really tough. I managed to reach the temple in only about 10 or 15 minutes and take some photos before racing back down to make the train back at 13.16. I rode one stop back and then was on track to do the 90 minute trek around the gorge. Once I arrived at the station I followed a sign and a track that promised a waterfall. It was a short walk of about 10 minutes, I sat on a rock by the water and ate my pizza bun for lunch then walked back up, unable to see another track this way without crossing the river. I stepped my full shoe into a mud puddle so then had to plunge it into the river to clean it, and completely soak it in the process. I followed some signs towards pictures of waterfalls that didn't really make sense which wasted my time to where I only had an hour left before the train would come. I found a track and followed it, although I could see that I probably wouldn't get very far as I would have to turn around after about 30 minutes. I gave it about 20 minutes and quickly realised that I wouldn't see too much from way up here, so I headed back down and climbed up an abandoned ski lift tower that was conveniently on this track too! The train station vending machine was completely out of all decent drinks including water so I had to settle for a Coke Zero - at least it has 0 calories... The slow screechy train took me back to Sendai with some annoying teenagers opposite me taking photos out the windows the entire journey on their iPads. I booked myself a seat on the earliest bullet train to Aomori tomorrow and then had a bit of a wander around Sendai, buying a few things at Uniqlo and a bag of pick and mix cookies from Aunt Stella that smelled so good I couldn't resist! I walked back through the arcades to my capsule hotel stopping only for a Family Mart spicy fried chicken (Fami Chiki) and a tub of mint chocolate chip ice cream as dinner and dessert. The next two hours were spent planning my day in great detail down to the minute with all train transfers sorted out, as that had been my downfall today.

[stingray-stories]

Day 169 12/13/2021

-Plane day!!!! What the heck I’m leaving.

Spoiler alert: the plane did not come today.

-In the morning, I did some computer stuff and it was announced that the plane was delayed. As a result, we got the opportunity to go to my favorite snorkel spot, Tortagonia!! There was a COTs survey that had to happen so that’s why we got to go. It was incredible. We swam passed the breakers and saw a school of about 700-1000 convict tang. It was sooo amazing. There were sooooo many fish out there. I also saw a leopard wrasse which are just such cool fish! It was a lot of fun.

-When we got back we were told the plane was canceled and I had to break it to the family. Big bummer. I’m glad I had more time on Palmyra, but it was definitely an emotional roller coaster.

-Since I had the rest of the day, I headed to North beach to read and lay in the sun. I biked up North Beach road to get a time lapse video. It was really hard because I had to dodge rocks, crabs, nuts, and fallen fronds with one hand. After that, I walked to my usual spot and climbed up on an old bunker that’s in the water a little bit. I read and watched some tattlers sun bathing on another nearby bunker type thing. It was great.

-After riding down the runway and taking another time lapse video, I showered and Dana and chatted and had drinks.

-Then we had dinner and cookies.

-Hang with friends in the commons and then we watched Jurassic World. Of course. It was amazing and the four of us (Dan, Chris, Dana, and me duh) shared a four loko (really awful alcoholic drink) that the cocos left for us. It was really gross but fun.

-After the movie, we did a crab walk to North Beach and it was sooo awesome. Lots of crabs and the moon was bright so we could see a lot.

-Since I got juked out by the plane, I had already stripped my bed sheets so I ended up sleeping in Rinos room. Sleepover!

[pompoms-bones]

12/19

technically it’s not the 19th but i figured i’d talk about it anyway since it’s been on my mind. anorexia fucking sucks. yesterday i really started doing it again and i have no idea what made me wanna search “ana” stuff on tumblr but it made me relapse pretty bad.

Yesterday was saturday, and the weekends are always hard for me. my family always goes out to eat on the weekend and i’m forced to tag along- and eating out means,,,

calories!!!! 🙃

so on the weekends i always try to eat absolutely nothing so that i can just eat a 500-1000 calorie dinner and be relatively okay. it’s an issue i think 1000 is a lot in general but i could honestly fucking cry seeing that i ate 600 or 700 so...

But anyways, yesterday would’ve already been bad enough because of eating out, but we went to BJs- one of those huge grocery stores where you buy everything in bulk for pretty cheap- and it was my first time there so my mom decided that we should all put whatever we wanted in the cart. Long story short i didn’t, obviously. I mean, i really wanted to and there were so many tasty looking cookies and stuff but i felt so off the entire time. there was so much food it was all i could think about so the whole time i was quiet and kinda miserable. my parents pressured me into getting some trail mix shit which i will Not touch, maybe one bowl on a binge day, but i plan to let my dad eat it all. we brought home nothing but junk, and i was too afraid to ask for like baby carrots or cucumbers or gerber puffs or tomatoes or anything i actually would’ve tried to eat. We brought home fucking doritos and chocolates and sodas and blegh. We’re all out of coffee too and it’s really hard for me to resist shit without drinking coffee early in the morning :(

I just need to try harder

Yesterday really wasn’t so bad i guess. there’s been worse days for sure- but yesterday really helped my ed kick off again so maybe that’s why shit was so bad. I looked at thinspo all the way home

Yesterday I ate Moe’s and drank a bunch of water. I know it’s gonna vary with restaurant prepared food but according to what it says: I only ate about 790 calories yesterday. I wish i could’ve done better but not without being suspicious. I didn’t exercise.

[duncanbarker-blog]

Osaka is up there with Kyoto and Tokyo as one of the most vegetarian-friendly cities in Japan. We found a wide range of vegan restaurants as well as Japanese restaurants specialising in typical dishes like ramen and okonomiyaki that offered meat-free versions.

As with our vegetarian Tokyo guide, we focused on finding the best vegetarian restaurants in Osaka that serve Japanese meals. The food is so good in Japan that we wanted to take advantage and be able to try local dishes rather than eat the Western-style salads and burgers that some veggie restaurants focus on.

As with anywhere in Japan, you will struggle as a vegetarian in Osaka if you just wander into a random restaurant. Planning is key and the Happy Cow app is your best friend for finding meat-free meals nearby. Below you’ll find the vegetarian-friendly restaurants we enjoyed in Osaka so you can plan your itinerary around some of these.

As many of these restaurants are small, family-run places it’s worth checking their Facebook pages before you visit to make sure they aren’t closed (you may have to use Google Translate). It’s always a good idea to have a backup plan. Google Maps is the easiest way to find your way around (see the map below). See our vegetarian Japan post for more tips.

The current exchange rate is approximately 1 USD = 106 yen and 1 GBP = 129 yen. Note that most restaurants don’t accept credit cards. 7-Eleven is the best place to withdraw cash with international cards for free.

Where to Stay in Osaka for Vegetarians and Vegans

Staying in walking distance of at least a few vegetarian-friendly restaurants will make your stay in Osaka much easier. After a long day sightseeing, you don’t always want to trek across town to find a place to eat.

It’s also worth considering staying in an Airbnb apartment or a hostel with a kitchen so that you’ll have the option to prepare some of your own meals. There are plenty of Airbnbs in Osaka and they are often cheaper than a hotel room. 

We stayed in this one-bedroom Airbnb apartment in Shinsaibashi. The location is ideal with most of the restaurants below in walking distance. The area is quiet but there are lots of cool shops and cafes nearby, and it’s just a 20-minute walk to the vibrant Dotonburi neighbourhood.

There are a couple of metro stations nearby. The Life Nishiohashi supermarket is only a few minutes’ walk away and has a wide variety of products (including bread and cheese for a quick meal).

The apartment is the biggest place we’ve stayed in Japan with a large living/dining room and kitchen and a separate bedroom with a double bed and couch.

We visited in February when the weather was very cold—the bedroom heated up quickly but the living room took longer. The small bathroom was unheated which was the biggest downside. 

Check the prices of this Airbnb in Shinsaibashi here.

Vegetarian Osaka Map

This map shows our Airbnb and recommended restaurants. The blue pins are for vegan restaurants and the red pins for vegetarian-friendly restaurants that also serve meat.

Osaka Vegan Restaurants

More and more vegan restaurants are opening in Osaka. All these restaurants and cafes are entirely vegan, so you can safely choose anything from the menu.

1) Green Earth (TOP PICK)

Lunch set with potato and bean curry

Green Earth is the oldest Osaka vegetarian restaurant and dates back to 1991. It does have an old-school feel with simple decor, but the food is tasty and excellent value. The staff speaks English and there’s an English menu. It turned fully vegan in 2019.

The most popular dish is the lunch set meal which changes daily. It includes a choice of brown rice or a black and white rice mix with a main dish, salad, vegetable side dish, and soup. We had a tasty potato and bean curry on one visit and an okra and soy meat curry on another. You can add a kombucha to the set for just 150 yen.

The Japanese curry and rice is even cheaper and you can choose your ingredients—the sauce was so tasty I wanted to lick my plate. The vegan pumpkin cake is also delicious and won a TV award.

They also have sandwiches, salads, pizza, and pasta on the menu and sell a few vegan products like cookies, muffins, and lentils.

Cost for a Main Dish: 850 yen for lunch set and 700 yen for curry. Details: 4-chōme−2−2 Kitakyūhōjimachi, Shinshaibashi. Lunch from 11.30 am – 4 pm Monday to Saturday. Dinner only on Fridays. Closed Sundays. Website: Green Earth. 

2) Rocca (TOP PICK)

Rocca has the most traditional Japanese set meal we ate in Osaka. There’s no English menu and the owners don’t seem to speak much English, but you don’t need to order. Just take a seat at the counter in this stylish, minimalist space and you’ll be brought a lovely vegan meal.

Our set included tea, rice, miso soup, pickles, three vegetable sides, and a main dish of delicious fried balls (possibly potato) in a tasty sauce.

It’s the kind of Japanese meal I love—artful, delicate flavours, and an array of dishes that I can’t quite identify but which all taste delicious.

The location is a little out of the way, between the Namba and Umeda areas, but it’s worth a detour for a traditional Japanese meal at a great price.

Cost for a Main Dish: 1000 yen for lunch set including tea. Details: 1-chōme−1−6–6 Tosabori (Vegetarian Meals ROCCA on Google Maps). Open from 11.30 am – 2.30 pm and 6 pm – 9.45 pm. Closed Sunday. Only open for lunch on Saturday and closed the second Saturday of the month. Website: Rocca Happy Cow listing. 

3) Cafe Atl (TOP PICK)

Japanese set lunch

This organic vegan cafe is in a bright, modern space on the first floor overlooking a shopping street in Shinsaibashi. The staff speaks English and there’s a simple blackboard menu in English with details and photos of the three items—a Japanese set, fusion set, and curry set.

The curry set was good, but we preferred the Japanese set which included tea, miso soup, rice, tofu in a soy sauce dressing, fried tofu in a sweeter sauce, pickles, mushrooms, and greens. It was all delicious and felt light and healthy.

Cost for a Main Dish: 1500 yen for lunch set including drink. Details: 2 Chome–1–24, Shinshaibashi. Open from 9 am to 5 pm. Closed Tuesday. Website: Cafe Atl Facebook page. 

4) Megumi

Brown rice miso ramen at Megumi

This cosy vegan restaurant in Osaka has just a few seats at the counter and is run by one lady who cooks and serves.

The extensive menu is in English and Japanese and includes lots of Japanese dishes including set meals, curry, tempura, ramen, gyoza, and okonomiyaki. Everything is gluten-free and vegan.

My favourite dish was the natto okonomiyaki, which is often described as a Japanese pancake but felt more like a potato fritter in this case—excellent comfort food.

We also got the brown rice miso ramen set which included pickled vegetables, gyoza, and a small salad. The gyoza were good but the ramen was a little plain for our tastes (we like our ramen spicy).

Although the meal was more expensive than most of our others, it’s worth it to try a range of vegan Japanese dishes.

I recommend making a reservation (I messaged on Facebook) as it’s a small place that often closes and is quite far from everything.

Cost for a Main Dish: Ramen and gyoza set 2900 yen. Natto okonomiyaki 1880 yen. Details: 2−2−10 東寺町ビル. Open from 6 pm – 10 pm. Closed Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Website: Megumi Facebook page. 

5) Genmai Cafe

Shokujido-Zen set vegan lunch with two brown rice balls

Genmai Cafe (listed as Haigenki Salon Shinsaibashi on Google Maps) has a modern canteen feel and is popular with Japanese office workers on their lunch break (arrive before noon or after 1 pm to avoid the rush).

You order at the counter (there is an English menu) and have the choice of five set meals. The focus is on brown rice balls, but there are also curry, salad, and daily main options.

We got the most expensive Shokujido-Zen set which included a choice of two brown rice balls (fillings include fried tofu, pickled plum, and pickled vegetables), tea, soup, salad, and five vegetable side dishes.

Although Happy Cow doesn’t list the cafe as vegan, they say they are entirely vegan and the menu seemed to be. There are vegan desserts too.

While it isn’t one of my top picks in Osaka, we did enjoy our meal and it’s worth visiting if you are in the area.

Cost for a Main Dish: From 850 – 1200 yen for lunch set. Details: 3-chōme−6−9 第3酵素ビル1F, Shinshaibashi. Open from 11 am – 6 pm. Closed Sundays (and for holidays in September—check their Facebook page). Website: Genmai website and Facebook page. 

6) Paprika Shokudou Vegan

Lunch set with vegetable and tempeh teriyaki stir fry

Paprika is a cosy, stylish vegan cafe. The staff didn’t seem to speak much English but were friendly and brought us an English menu. Just ring the bell when you’re ready to order.

The menu is more limited at lunch and focuses on sets—choose a main and it comes with rice, miso soup, salad, and a side (ours was potato salad).

We found the menu too fake meat focused for our tastes with options like soy meat karaage and vegan hamburger. We chose a vegetable and tempeh teriyaki stir fry, which didn’t feel very Japanese but it was tasty.

At dinner they also have rice bowls, pizza, and pasta as well as the sets. There’s a 300 yen seat charge in the evenings.

It’s not my favourite place in Osaka, but it’s a good option if you’re in the area and like soy meat.

Cost for a Main Dish: From 1260 yen for lunch set. Credit cards accepted. Details: 1–9–9 Shinmachi, Shinshaibashi. Open from 11.30 am – 2 pm and 5.30 pm – 10 pm. Closed Monday. Website: Paprika website. 

Vegetarian-Friendly Restaurants in Osaka

Some of the best vegetarian food in Osaka isn’t found in vegetarian restaurants. The restaurants below serve meat and/or fish, but they also cater for vegetarians (and often vegans).

They are a good opportunity to try classic Japanese dishes like ramen, gyoza, and okonomiyaki in a typical setting. You may need to explain your dietary needs, but we didn’t find it difficult in any of these places.

7) Self Tacoyaki Bar Iduco (TOP PICK)

Tacoyaki is an Osakan street food that’s usually made with octopus, but Iduco offers the unique chance to try a vegetarian or vegan version of these balls.

It’s a tiny, cute open-air stall where you stand at the bar and make your own tacoyaki. The owner is super friendly (and a big fan of Manchester bands like The Stone Roses!) and will walk you through it. We kept warm on a winter night with some hot umesyu (plum wine).

You pour the batter into small ball moulds on a hot plate and add your choice of fillings such as green onion, pickled ginger, mushroom, konnyaku, puffed rice, and dried seaweed. When they have finished cooking you can top the balls with tacoyaki sauce, mayonnaise (egg-free available), nori, hot sauce, or whatever you like.

The results are delicious—gooey on the inside, crispy on the outside. It’s such a fun and affordable experience and a good place to meet locals.

Iduco is just down the road from the Harukas 300 observatory, which has fantastic views at night, and Spa World is also nearby.

Cost for a Main Dish: 16 tacoyaki are 800 yen for vegetarian and 1000 yen for vegan. Details: 1-chōme–3–20 Taishi. Open from 5 pm until midnight every day. Website: Iduco Facebook page. 

8) Matsuri (TOP PICK)

Samurai ramen at Matsuri

This halal restaurant has a whole separate vegetarian menu (not on their website) which includes Japanese classics like ramen, okonomiyaki, tacoyaki, yaki soba and more. We appreciated that they don’t seem to use fake meat.

Vegan dishes are marked but ask if you want something adapted as they speak perfect English.

We both got ramen—the curry ramen and spicy Samurai ramen with beansprouts, eggplant and mushrooms were both tasty. We would have returned to try more things if it was nearer to our Airbnb.

The location is a bit out of the way, but we stopped here on our way back from Universal Studios Japan (which has limited vegetarian options) as it’s close to Noda station where we had to change trains.

Cost for a Main Dish: Ramen is 750 yen. Details: 3-chōme–27–17 Yoshino. Open from 11 am – 2 pm and 5 pm – 11 pm. Closed Sunday. Website: Matsuri website. 

9) Asai Togei (TOP PICK)

Kaiseki is a traditional multi-course fine dining experience in Japan. It’s difficult to find meat and fish free versions of kaiseki, but luckily Asai Togei does a vegan set.

For the vegan kaiseki you must book 24 hours in advance—I emailed them at asaitogei151@gmail.com but you could call as they speak good English (our server had lived in San Francisco).

We went for the most expensive option at lunch which included eight dishes—it was a lot of food so you could choose one of the cheaper options. You have no choice over what you eat—you’ll be brought a series of beautifully presented small plates using seasonal ingredients.

Our meal included pumpkin soup, a pretty plate of konnyaku, yuba, and mountain yam, lily root dumplings, tempura, noodle soup, and green tea mochi to finish.

The food was excellent and worth the splurge. If you are also visiting Tokyo and only have the budget for one fine dining meal, we preferred Bon which is entirely vegan and has a more traditional setting. Asai Togei has a more casual feel where you sit in private booths rather than on tatami mats (an advantage for some).

Cost for a Main Dish: Vegan set lunch is 3500 yen, 5000 yen or 7000 yen depending on the number of dishes. Dinner is likely more expensive. Details: 2-chōme–2–30 Shinsaibashisuji. Open from 11.30 am – 2.30 pm and 5 pm – 10 pm. Closed Sunday. Website: Asai Togei website (use Google Translate).

10) Okonomiyaki Chitose

Okonomiyaki is a typical Osakan dish that’s often described as a savoury Japanese pancake—an egg and flour batter is cooked with cabbage and various fillings of your choice. Although it can easily be made vegetarian (but not vegan), it can be difficult to explain this in most okonomiyaki places.

Okonomiyaki Chitose is happy to cater to vegetarians, though. This tiny backstreet place in the Tennoji area has just four seats at the counter and two tables. It’s popular with tourists and there’s often a queue outside, so arrive early (we got the last table just after midday).

There are no vegetarian options on the menu, but the friendly lady who runs the restaurant speaks English and was happy to make us one. Her father operates the grill and you can watch him work. Our veggie okonomiyaki came with cabbage, tofu, peas, sweetcorn, carrots, and pineapple.

They might not be the traditional fillings but it was good. We also got a modan yaki which includes noodles—it was our favourite but very filling so one of each worked well. Go hungry as you have to order one dish per person.

Cost for a Main Dish: 750 yen for vegetarian okonomiyaki and 850 yen for modan yaki. Details: 1-chōme–11–10 Taishi, Nishinari-ku. Open from 12 pm – 3.30 pm and 5 pm – 8 pm. Closed Wednesday. Website: Chitose website. 

11) Gyozaoh Dotonbori

Dotonburi is known as the area to eat at night in Osaka, but vegetarian options are limited. I definitely recommend coming in the evenings to experience the neon chaos, and Gyozaoh Dotonbori is the ideal place for a quick and affordable meal.

This traditional gyoza bar has counter seating, where you can see the chef at work, and a few tables. There’s an English menu and the friendly staff speaks a little English. They have vegetable gyoza either pan-fried or deep-fried (both are worth trying) and a few vegetable sides—we got the cucumber and the eggplant.

It’s worth telling them you are vegetarian as they advised us that the eggplant dipping sauce contains dashi (fish broth) and brought us soy sauce instead. I think the gyoza are vegan, but it’s worth checking.

Cost for a Main Dish: 480 yen for vegetable gyoza and 290 yen for sides. Details: 2-chōme–4–14 Dōtonbori. Open from 5 pm – 1 am. Website: Gyozaoh Dotonbori Facebook page. 

12) Chabuton Ramen

Chabuton is a ramen chain that offers vegan ramen and gyoza. We went here several times in Osaka and Kyoto and enjoyed having the typical ramen experience where you order at a vending machine.

In Osaka we went to the Chabuton Yodobashi-Umeda branch which is on the 8th floor of the Yodobashi electronics store. When you arrive, order and pay at the vending machine. The machine is in Japanese but if you look at the English menu on the wall you can compare the items you need—the vegan ramen and gyoza are marked as green on the menu.

Once you have the ticket give it to the staff and say you ordered the vegetable gyoza as the meat gyoza shares the same button.

The ramen comes quickly and is packed with vegetables. You can jazz it up with the condiments like chile on the table. The gyoza are good too.

Cost for a Main Dish: 750 yen for ramen and 320 yen for gyoza. Details: 8F of Yodobashi Umeda near Umeda and Osaka stations. Open from 11 am – 10 pm. Website: Chabuton Happy Cow listing. 

13) CoCo Ichibanya Curry House

Vegetarian menu at CoCo Ichibanya

If you are ever stuck for a vegetarian meal in Japan, look for the nearest CoCo Ichibanya. Most branches of this Japanese curry chain have a separate vegetarian menu—look for signs on the window or for the green menu at the tables. The regular English menu is helpful to explain the ordering process.

You can choose your fillings (we usually get vegetables and eggplant), spice level (3 is pretty spicy), and size of rice portion. It’s tasty, filling, inexpensive, and quick.

We went to the branch nearest to our Airbnb, “CoCo Ichibanya Nishi-ku Awaza 1-chome” but “CoCo Ichibanya Kitahorie 1 Chome” between Shinsaibashi and Dotonburi also has a vegetarian menu. There are many other branches. I check the Google Maps reviews to see if anyone mentions the vegetarian menu.

Cost for a Main Dish: Vegetarian curries from 654 yen to 911 yen. Details: Various branches. Open from 11 am – 11 pm (some branches 1 am). Website: CoCo Ichibanya website. 

14) Mochisho Shizuku Shinmachi

We’re not usually fans of Japanese desserts (rice and beans don’t appeal in sweets), but we loved this traditional Japanese wagashi (sweet) shop that our Airbnb host recommended.

It’s minimalist and stylish. We got sweets to take away, but I recommend eating in with some green tea for a unique Japanese experience (apparently there is an English menu).

You can choose from the rows of colourful daifuku on the counter. Names are written in Japanese so we just pointed.

Our host recommended the Framboise Daifuku (the bright pink one) and it was definitely our favourite—a soft glutinous rice ball with a whole raspberry inside. The chocolate one was also good, but the green tea was less to our taste.

Daifuku are traditionally vegan so I assume they are here, but I don’t know for sure.

Cost: 400 yen for Framboise Daifuku. Details: 1-chōme−17−17 Shinmachi. The tea house is open from 1 pm – 5.30 pm, but the shop may open from 11 am – 7 pm. Website: Shizuku website. 

Vegan Ramen Cooking Class

We ran out of time, but I really wanted to do this vegan ramen cooking class that’s listed on Airbnb Experiences and has fantastic reviews. It’s in Ibaraki which is 12 minutes from JR Osaka station or 20 minutes from JR Kyoto station by train. 

If you’d prefer a more central class, this ramen and gyoza cooking class is in Namba and offers vegan and halal options. 

Other Japan Vegetarian Guides

Vegetarian Survival Guide to Japan

The Best Vegetarian Restaurants in Tokyo

Vegetarian Kyoto (update coming soon)

2 Week Japan Itinerary

I hope you enjoy eating your way around Osaka as a vegetarian as much as we did! Leave a comment below if you have any more recommendations.

[charllieeldridge]

Cost of Living in Beijing: An Insider’s Guide

Blending ancient history with sophisticated urban life, Beijing is one of the fastest-growing cities in Asia. Although the cost of visiting and living in Beijing has recently become more expensive, it’s still affordable compared to other western and Asian cities around the world.

Your cost of living in Beijing depends entirely on how you choose to spend your money. It’s possible to spend a hefty amount on clothes, goods, and food in Beijing (have you ever heard of the thousand-dollar bird’s nest soup?). On the other hand, you can spend a mere $4 on a meal, or $15 on a night out.

The truth is, Beijing doesn’t have to be that expensive at all, especially if you know what things should cost on average.

I’m here to discuss the actual cost of living in Beijing. I’ll explain how much you should spend on rent and food, and what you can expect from living in China’s vibrant and historic capital. In this article, you’ll get the information and tools to decide if living in Beijing is right for you.

Why Choose Beijing?

When people find out that I lived in China, they’re usually curious about a few things.

First, they wonder how an American with zero Mandarin language skills was able to survive in Beijing for a year. That thought is then followed up by questions about cultural differences between Western and Asian cultures. Finally, they want to know about the cost of living, and if Asia is really as cheap as they imagine.

The truth is, there are plenty of reasons to live in Beijing. This bustling city blends ancient, traditional culture with modern, urban life. You could easily spend the day in a peaceful, lotus-filled park, or lighting incense in a colorful Buddhist temple. Or if you prefer, you could hit the town for bargain shopping, gourmet dining, and dancing under the stars. There are endless things to do in Beijing to keep you busy.

China’s vibrant capital is ultimately a city that you can make your own. No matter what sparks your interest, you can find it in Beijing! Besides the fun things to do, and the chance to learn about an ancient culture and history, here are a few more reasons to live in Beijing.

Work Opportunities

Take a look in the classifieds section, and you’ll see thousands of job opportunities for expats and English speakers. As one of the biggest cities in China, you’ll find that many international companies are eager to set up satellite offices and branches in Beijing. For this reason, there are multitudes of job opportunities for foreigners and English speakers.

It doesn’t matter if you’re working in tech, finance, or hospitality. If the company is based outside of China, then the primary language of the business is probably in English.

There are also plenty of service-industry opportunities available in Beijing. With the booming growth of tourism, many hotels and shops are looking to hire English speakers.

Teaching English is another popular career, not only in Beijing but all over Asia. In order to study abroad or to increase their hiring potential, Chinese students and residents are eager to learn English from native speakers. You can teach privately, for a school, or even live as an au pair for a family!

Beijing is also an excellent destination for digital nomads. There are plenty of co-working spaces and creative outlets for you to expand your freelancing business.

But don’t get me wrong; while English is widely spoken, it’s still beneficial to learn Mandarin while living in Beijing. Not only will you gain a deeper appreciation for the culture, but you’ll also expand your job prospects with Chinese companies.

Unique Culture

Despite what many people think, Beijing is a diverse and multicultural city. Ever since it hosted the Summer Olympics in 2008, Beijing has seen tremendous growth in tourism and foreign expats.

While it’s common to see westerners and other foreigners, Beijing is also an ideal destination for immersing yourself in Asian and Chinese culture. China has done a fantastic job of preserving its traditional heritage.

There are seven different UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the Great Wall of China, the Forbidden City, and the Summer Palace. If you want a taste of authentic Beijing, then I recommend visiting one of these impressive attractions.

Intertwined with the traditional sites is one of the biggest defining characteristics of Beijing — urbanization. That means you’ll see towering skyscrapers and modern highrises dotted in between the centuries-old temples, parks, and pagodas in Beijing. This gives the city an eclectic flair, unlike any other place in the world. 

☞ SEE ALSO: The Villages of Dacangzhen: Southwest China’s Best Kept Secret

State-of-the-Art Public Transportation

In a city known for its technological advancements, it should come as no surprise that Beijing has an incredible public transportation system. Your options for getting around the city (and getting around China in general) are virtually endless. There are subways, rail trains, buses, taxis, bicycles, electric scooters, and even rickshaws.

Best of all, all these options are relatively affordable. We’ll discuss the cost of transportation a little later in this article, but take my word for it; transportation costs in Beijing should be the least of your worries.

On the other hand, there is one significant downside to public transportation in Beijing. With over 21 million residents living in Beijing, transport can be crowded and overwhelming to some. Renting a car or taking a scooter can be dangerous, especially considering how congested and populated the roads are.

Although you might be rubbing shoulders during rush hour or dodging bicyclists during your drive to work, you can still easily get from one place to another.

Crime is at an All-Time Low

Beijing is incredibly safe for foreigners, solo travelers, and women. As a young female in my early 20s living in Beijing, I never once felt unsafe walking alone or at night. Serious crime and violence against locals and foreigners are infrequent.

On the other hand, petty theft can be an issue, especially in big cities and touristy areas. However, if you take the right precautions, you can avoid being pickpocketed or robbed during your stay in Beijing.

When you go out, make sure to leave any valuables such as passports, jewelry, and large amounts of cash at home. You should also keep your wallet in your front pocket, or your purse zipped up and in plain sight at all times. By being aware of your surroundings, you can avoid thieves and pickpockets.

Amazing Food and Snacks

Beijing is known to serve some of the most mouth-watering dishes on the planet. From gourmet dining experiences to sizzling street foods, you’ll have no problem finding something delicious to eat in China. The only problem you’ll have is deciding exactly where to eat!

Food in China is entirely different than the mediocre Chinese food that’s probably served in your home country. In Beijing, you won’t find Orange Chicken, Beef and Broccoli, or Fortune Cookies on the menu. Instead, you’ll have the options of steamed pork buns, spicy noodles, and succulent duck to indulge in.

Besides the plethora of dine-in restaurants, you’ll also have access to freshly cooked street food in Beijing. All you have to do is find one of the street carts that whip up meat skewers, savory crepes, and sweet pastries, and you have yourself a cheap and filling meal!

The food here is so amazing that it remains one of my favorite aspects of living in Beijing. 

Cost of Living in Beijing

Although many people believe that China is the cheapest country in the world, this reputation has changed slightly over the last few decades. While it is possible to find great deals in Beijing, your cost of living will depend entirely on how you choose to spend your time.

Let’s break the expenses and see if life in Beijing is within your budget.

Cost of Accommodation in Beijing

Your biggest expense when living in Beijing will likely be the cost of the rent. There are several different accommodation types to choose from, including private studios, shared flats, and even single-family houses.

Unlike most things in Beijing, the cost of rent is actually very high. To many local residents, renting a flat or house is actually out of the question, since the price is much higher than the average income. However, if you’re living on a western salary, you can live quite comfortably in many places in Beijing.

If you’re looking to cut down on costs, you can consider sharing an apartment or housing with one or more roommates. You might also look for an apartment outside the busy city center districts.

When it comes to finding a place to live in Beijing, there are several websites to check out. The Beijinger is an English website with dozens of furnished and unfurnished apartments added each day. Besides housing, you can also use the Beijinger to find events, employment opportunity, and other items for sale. 

  The downside to using an English site is that most listings are targeted towards expats, which means prices tend to be much higher. If you know Mandarin (or know someone that can read Mandarin), I recommend using 58.com or Soufun.

  If you move to Beijing for work, your employer might help you find accommodation in the city. More often than not, these places are already rented by the company, which means you might have little choice about the neighborhood or facilities in your flat.

  Here are some estimates of what you’ll spend on accommodation when living in Beijing:

  Private 1-bedroom in an expensive area: 7500RMB (~$1000 USD)

Room in shared flat in an expensive area: 5000RMB (~$700 USD)

Private 1-bedroom outside the city center: 4500RMB (~$630 USD)

Room in shared flat outside the city center: 3000RMB (~$420 USD)

Cost of Food and Drink in Beijing

The cost of food will depend on where you choose to eat. You can eat like a King in a hotel or high-end restaurant and pay the same as if you were dining in a western or European restaurant. However, if you know where to look, you can fill up on meals for just a few dollars a day.

If you’re looking to save big on food, then eat in one of the smaller, local, family-run establishments dotted around the city. Remember, it’s a good sign if you see lots of locals eating there! Just make sure to bring a dictionary or translator, because most local restaurants only have Mandarin menus (if they have a menu at all).

Meal for one in a mid-range restaurant: 30RMB (~$4 USD)

Street food snacks: 10RMB (~$1.50 USD)

Meal for one in an inexpensive restaurant: 20RMB (~$2.50 USD)

3-course meal in an expensive restaurant: 100RMB (~$15 USD)

Bottle of beer: 10RMB (~$1.50 USD)

Glass of wine: 30RMB (~$4 USD)

Bottle of water: 10RMB (~$1.50 USD)

Spending a night out in Beijing can also be fairly affordable. Although you’ll find plenty of western cocktail lounges and bars (most of which charge western prices), you can still drink and party in Beijing withing spending too much.

One cocktail in an expensive club: 60RMB (~$8 USD)

One cocktail in an inexpensive bar: 30RMB (~$4 USD)

One beer from kiosk: 10RMB (~$1.50 USD)

One beer in a pub: 30RMB (~$4 USD)

As a general rule of thumb, you can save even more money by cooking at home. When shopping for groceries, Beijing has several western stores and markets, including Carrefour, Walmart, and METRO. You can also shop at a local produce market, or in a Chinese store for even more significant savings.

Loaf of bread: 10RMB (~$1.50 USD)

1kg of apples: 15RMB (~$2 USD)

1kg of chicken breast: 20RMB (~$2.50 USD)

12 eggs: 10RMB (~$1.50 USD)

Bottle of beer: 5RMB (~$.75 USD)

Bottle of wine: 30RMB (~$4 USD)

Utility and Household Costs in Beijing

Compared to other western countries, utilities are much cheaper in Beijing. The biggest utility cost will be electricity, which is usually prepaid before moving into an apartment. You can expect to pay around 200-300RMB ($30-40 USD) per month for electricity.

Gas and water may or may not be included in your rent. If not, then you will need to pay 70-80RMB (~$10 USD) for each, which is a minor cost, in my opinion.

If your flat requires that you prepay your utilities, then this can be done at the bank or local management office.

Transportation Costs in Beijing

Navigating through Beijing can be confusing at first. But once you get the hang of where you’re going, you’ll be traveling around the city just like a local. And it’s okay if you get lost every once in a while, because the cost of using the public transportation system is very affordable.

One-way ticket: 3RMB (~$.40 USD)

10-minute taxi ride: 30RMB (~$4 USD)

Taxi from airport to city center: 100RMB (~$15 USD)

Cost of a new bicycle: 350RMB (~$50 USD)

Cost of 10-minute rickshaw ride: 50RMB (~$7 USD)

On average, you should aim for spending around $30 USD a week on transportation. If you live near the subway station, then taking the train is an efficient option for getting around Beijing. However, I ended up taking a taxi to most places, especially if I was grocery shopping. The price of a taxi ride is fairly low, especially compared to other countries in the world.

Cost of Entertainment in Beijing

When living in Beijing, you’ll inevitably want to spend some of your hard-earned cash to let loose and enjoy the fun and exciting aspects of the city. After all, seeing the sights and immersing yourself in Chinese culture is one of the best ways to get a feel for Beijing. Most importantly, entertainment in Beijing is actually reasonably inexpensive!

One movie ticket for the cinema: 50RMB (~$7 USD)

1-month gym membership: 400RMB (~$50 USD)

Standard haircut: 70RMB (~$10 USD)

One ticket entry to Summer Palace: 30RMB (~$4.20 USD)

One ticket entry to Temple of Heaven: 35RMB (~$5 USD)

One ticket entry to Forbidden City: 60RMB (~$8 USD)

Full-day private tour of Beijing: 640RMB (~$90 USD)

Remember, it’s relatively easy to spend most of your money on entertainment and activities in Beijing. All those cocktails, excursions, and ticket prices can add up quickly. I recommend sticking to a monthly budget, so you don’t run out of money while living in Beijing.

What to Expect When Living in Beijing

Moving to Beijing can be an exhilarating experience. After all, you’re in one of the most buzzing capital cities in the Far East. To help make your transition to a new country a smooth one, I’ve put together a list of essential things to expect when living in Beijing.

It’s Okay if People Stare

Not being of Asian descent in a predominantly Asian country will inevitably attract stares and glances from locals. While most people that live in the big cities are familiar with Westerners, this might not be the case if you travel to small villages or towns.

Therefore, it’s quite common for Chinese locals to stare. To outsiders, this may come off rude, invasive, or strange. But in reality, it’s just a curiosity that makes them interested in learning more about a different culture other than their own.

As long as you’re friendly and smile at them, you’ll have no problem traveling around China.

☞ SEE ALSO: A Travel Guide to Experiencing the Tibetan Monlam Festival

Carry Your Own Toilet Paper 

Public bathrooms in China leave something to be desired. It’s not uncommon to find bathrooms without toilet paper, toilet seats, or even barriers or walls between stalls. Not to mention, you’ll have to get used to Chinese squatter toilets, which are more like holes in the grounds rather than seats.

For this reason, it’s essential to always carry around your own toilet paper. High-end hotels and malls might provide toilet paper, or at least make it available for purchase before entering the bathroom. But on the flip side, most public restrooms will not offer such a luxury.

In addition, you should also carry around hand sanitizer. Many public bathrooms are full of grime and dust, and soap is rarely provided. If you bring your own toilet paper and sanitizer, you’ll be prepared for even the dirtiest of public bathrooms.

Prepare for the Great Firewall

Censorship throughout China can be a major issue, especially when it comes to journalism, television, literature, and even the internet. The Chinese government limits access to many foreign websites, including Facebook and Wikipedia, Google, and Twitter. Plus, you won’t be able to access websites like Netflix or Spotify.

For this reason, you also won’t see any information online regarding China’s tumultuous events in history. Information about food safety scandals, political corruption, Tibet and Taiwan independence, and the 1989 protests at Tiananmen square are strictly banned in China.

If you’re looking to use these sites during your stay in Beijing, you should consider purchasing a VPN — virtual private network. This would allow you to tap into another IP address so you can freely surf the web at your leisure.

Learn a Few Chinese Words

Although English is spoken in many tourist sites and hotels, Mandarin Chinese is the primary language in Beijing. Taxi drivers, street food owners, and retail associates probably won’t speak any English. Knowing a few words in Mandarin, like hello, thank you, no thank you, can go a long way with Chinese locals.

To put it simply, learning Mandarin is not for the faint of heart. Not only do you have to learn different tones and vocabulary, but you’ll also have to master an entirely new form of writing. Unless you’re adept at learning new languages, it’s unreasonable that you’ll learn Mandarin in just a few months. However, you can still pick up a few survival phrases to help make your time abroad easier.

Be Prepared to Bargain

In Beijing markets, it’s perfectly normal to bargain for a lower price. Whether you’re shopping for counterfeit shoes and watches or fresh vegetables and fruit, the price you see on the tag may not be what you end up paying.

Generally speaking, you can save up to 50% by bargaining. If the shop owner is unwilling to go lower, then you can always use the “walk away” tactic!

Of course, you shouldn’t bargain in grocery stores or shopping malls, as these prices are set and regulated. However, if you go to a farmers market or knock-off market, you can haggle your way to better deals. It’s even believed that some shop owners will be offended if you pay the full price.

Final Thoughts on Living in Beijing

As you can see, it’s definitely possible to live in Beijing without burning through your salary and savings. However, the cost of living will be different for everyone that decides to move here. Like I mentioned before, it’s up to you if you want to spend $5 or $500 on meals and clothes!

Beijing can be affordable if you have a decent income, some savings, and most importantly, an open mind. And don’t forget to put your bargaining skills to the test if you’re looking to score even better deals.

But costs aside, living in Beijing is one of the coolest experiences you will ever get to have.

Personally speaking, I loved my time living in Beijing, and I still go back every year just to eat at my favorite, cheap dumpling shop and see how the city has grown over the years.

For the rest of my life, the Chinese capital will always have a special place in my heart. And if you decide to take the leap and move to Beijing, then you’ll see exactly what I mean.

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