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itiskhalsa · 7 years ago

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banglacalling · 8 years ago

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Crossing the Nullarbor, and beyond

Melbourne to Perth and Kalgoorlie, via the Nullabor

Friday 14 A few minor mishaps gave amusements to an otherwise hugely successful day. Margaret couldn’t find my house and was going round in circles looking for it. I managed to squirt tomato sauce over my clean shirt instead of the pasty I had for a morning snack. Margaret panicked when she saw water dripping from under the bonnet of her car - only to be reassured by a kindly young man that it was from the air conditioner. And we were almost reported to the New South Wales police for not paying for our petrol at a service station at Wentworth, where we stopped for lunch. We both thought the other had paid, and it wasn’t until we were some kilometres down the road that we realised our mistake. I found the manager looking at my photo on the CCTV screen and initiating paperwork for the police. He was very relieved when I returned because he wasn’t looking forward to having to complete all the formalities. We later considered the problem they might have had in extraditing us from Victoria! So much for our Bonnie and Clyde run! We drove the 840kms from Melbourne to Broken Hill in 8 hours and 20 minutes, with stops totaling 1 hour 40 minutes that included a quick visit to the Murray River at Wentworth. We were able to avoid going though Mildura, thank to Apple Maps, and that probably saved us a lot of time.

Air b&b was welcoming and comfortable. Sifted through a few things to do in Broken Hill, had a short rest, then headed off to the Palace Hotel for dinner. We had to wait for over an hour for our order as the restaurant was busy -little else was open as it was Good Friday - but the meal was very good.

Saturday 15. We had intended to make an early start to look at the sculpture park but both of us overslept so we had a leisurely start to the day. Headed off to Silverton where the first silver/zinc mining occurred in the 1880s. The population of the town was over 3000 at one time but is now less than 100. We visited the gaol museum which had many mementos of times past. At one time you could go by rail to Adelaide and Port Pirie and there was a box with tickets set out for different destinations. There were many service clubs and fraternities - IOOOF, Masons etc. Old washing machines and mangles which reminded me of my childhood. Drove through Penrose park with a camping ground and it had caged peacocks, cockies, two sheep and a goat - we were repulsed by these and I wanted to let them free. We drove to the Mundi Mundi Lookout and enjoyed the view - very desolate.

On our return to Broken Hill we called at the Pro Hart Gallery. I’d never appreciated his art before, but the long (hour and a half) video - we watched about an hour of it - gave an excellent overview of his life, work and personality. He painted thousands of paintings and was very versatile. Lovely portrait of his wife, fascinated by insects, people, abstracts - in fact all kinds of life. Devoted to his wife and five children. Also a supporter of certain causes, including SIDs from which one of his grandchildren died. Bought a book of photographs of people mentioning the streets they lived in. Each person made a small comment about their own life or life in general, and it was a comment by a young woman, maybe in her thirties, carrying young, healthy dog that prompted me to buy it: “One of the things I’ve learned through broken engagements and multiple dead dogs is that you just have to keep moving. You can’t let heartbreak slow you down."

Back to our temporary home for soup and a rest before heading out for an evening talk under the stars about how astrology developed into astronomy - a fall back talk because the forecast was for lots of cloud. It was to have been a star-gazing evening with powerful binoculars but although the sky was too cloudy for us to see any stars for the first hour or so, gradually they began to peep through and we were able to look through a telescope at Jupiter - but I couldn’t make out any moons or rings, just a round bright circle. Bought a star disk for the grandchildren, but as we were told the night sky should be clear tomorrow we think we’ll drive back to the Mundi Mundi lookout for some more stargazing.

Sunday 16. We got to the Living Desert Sculptures at 8.20, ten minutes before it its official opening time, but the gates were open and we drove to where the ranger was feeding kangaroos. He feeds them most days but stops when the rain comes. They could be a bit fractious with each other, several of them aiming a good biff at one of his neighbours without provocation. Many, if not all, had fringed ears. the result of fighting between themselves. Not as though they had to compete for food - there was enough for everyone. There were some aboriginal etchings along a short walkway but they were difficult to make out amongst the weathered rocks. The Sculpture Park was created in 1993. The 12 sculptures are moving and magnificent - men of many nationalities sculpted from huge rocks brought to the area from nearby, displaying fantastic imagination. A horse, a bird, the rainbow serpent and motherhood were some of the themes.

After calling at home to put our washing in the machine we went to the Regional Art Gallery where there were three temporary exhibitions as well as their permanent collection which had quite an assortment of paintings, some by well known artists such as Nolan, Fred Williams, Pro Hart, of course, but the painting we both liked most was by Emily Kame Kngwarray, beautiful red/pink wild flowers We explored a local park that we had passed when we had driven into the town of Friday. There was a fountain with four tall jets of water, so refreshing in the generally arid landscape, both of the country and the town, which is built under the looming hill of overburden.

We returned to the MIndi Mundi Lookout at 5.45pm, just as the sun was beginning to set. The area was full of sightseers, and a few remained with us after the sun had gone to watch the stars appear. Armed with our star map we were able to locate several of the stars that we had had pointed out yesterday, and on our return to the town we watched as the moon hurriedly rose into the sky, suddenly appearing from behind a tree.

Monday 17. Fairly uneventful day. Our drive to Kimba took about 6 hours, with a short lunch break at a great café at Orroroo where they sold lovely food and cards. Arrived at the Olive Tree b&b soon after 4pm. Good place to stay apart from their use of the most revolting air freshener that made me feel a bit nauseous. Walked round the small town, centre of wheat growing. We had dinner at the local pub, run by an Indian family. The Shell service station and restaurant were also staffed and probably run by Indian, this time Sikh.

Tuesday 18 Drove a few kms out of town to look at the sculpture of Eyre. Then got underway for our short (2 ½ hour) drive to Streaky Bay, stopping for coffee at a pleasant small town. Spent the afternoon wandering round the jetty and foreshore and reading in the sunshine outside the motel room. The Streaky Bay Hotel/Motel. We had to queue for a long time for our dinner because the restaurant was so full. We didn’t sleep well with noise outside our room, and other motorists getting off to an early start.

Wednesday 19 Drove about 20 kms out of town to see the Whistling Rocks and Blow Hole. Beautiful scenery. Then headed off for Ceduna, 110kms. Drivers have almost always been good and helpful, apart from one huge caravan puller who we followed for a long distance the previous day and managed to get behind again today. Luckily we found a place where we could pass quite easily on this occasion. So far Margaret has done all the driving, which she enjoys. I don’t! It was very overcast, getting more and more so as we reached Ceduna. We were walking along the foreshore in the mid-afternoon where we say a storm approaching at great speed. Although it passed quickly it brought the first of lots of rain, and the evening and overnight it was very wet. Up to now the country has been very dry, and we’ve had bright blue skies until we reached Kimba. The change in the weather will bring relief to the drought stricken country.

Thursday 20 to Friday 21. We left Ceduna in the rain, and Margaret got soaked when she checked the tyres in the last service station we were to visit for a while. But a few minutes later we drove out of the rain and, although often cloudy, we had no more rain over the next few days. The countryside looked clean and bright and lots of green bushes and shrubs. The Nullabor was named after the latin for no trees, but the second half of the journey gave a lie to this. Although there were few areas of dense or large trees there were often small, stunted ones. We saw very little wild life, but there was one spectacular eagle sitting majestically on a tree overseeing the distribution of road kill, while a couple of dingos were close by. We turned back to take a photo and one of the dingos was quite unfazed by my taking his photo as he nonchalantly crossed the road in front of me.

The three lookouts over the ocean had magnificent views, particularly the first two. We stopped off at the Nullabor and Cocklebiddy Roadhouses, both OK. Meals were sized for the truckies. Everyone we spoke to had tales to tell, particularly one truck driver at Nullabor who poured out his life story – a sad, lonely one. The road certainly attracts some characters, including one angry truckie that we came across a couple of times being abusive and demanding of the women behind the counters. And an elderly man with the shortest of red shorts and a long white and scraggy beard who appeared oblivious to the stares that he attracted.

We called for a coffee break at Eucla Motel/Hotel. There was the most beautiful garden and swimming pool – not that we stopped for a dip – but we hope to stop there on our return journey. We also visited the old Telegraph station at Eucla, built close to the beach where the sand dunes are gradually burying it. We stopped at the Head of the Bight Whale watching centre, just before the Nullabor Road House, and were told that the nearby sand dunes were moving at the rate of 11 metres a day. Unfortunately we were too early for seeing the whales that migrate here every year for calving.

Saturday 22 Monday 24 We had an uneventful drive from Cocklebiddy to Esperance, stopping for lunch at Norseman. The Fraser Ranges are close to Norseman and the countryside is treed and pretty. We called briefly at the Fraser Station where there is camping and you can explore the ranch and nearby countryside from there. Our arrival at our air b&b at Esperance was something of a disappointment as we had to do a thorough clean of the kitchen before we felt able to cook, and had to request a clean shower curtain as the existing one was putrid. We found out that the family of the young girl who had been killed a week ago had been living here when the accident happened and our hostess tried to imply that this was the reason that our unit hadn’t been cleaned well enough. We didn’t buy that argument.

The beaches and seascapes around Esperance are stunning, and we have done some exploring. The Cape Le Grand National Park has some beautiful beaches, particularly Lucky Beach which has been awarded the prize for having the whitest beach in Australia. It felt as though we were walking on firm salt. There is a caravan selling good coffee on the beach, and this, and the good camping facilities, attract a number of people. Thistle Cove had a magnificent ‘whistling rock’ standing up high overlooking the beach.

On Sunday evening the local surfers held a ‘paddle out’ to remember the young girl who died. It was a moving occasion, with lots of local people congregating to participate.

Tuesday 25. Drove from Esperance to Denmark, a long drive. All the roads we’ve driven along since leaving Melbourne have been in top condition apart from today, when there was a stretch of road of about 100kms from Ravensthorpe, where we stopped for coffee, that was pot-holed and crumbling away at the verges. It was also narrow in places, and not easy to pass the one road train we came across. On the whole drivers have been careful and sensible but today there were a few who took stupid risks.

Arrived at Denmark’s Ocean Beach at around 3.30pm and after a short rest we walked towards the ocean beach. Our accommodation is very comfortable, clean, and tastefully furnished.

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