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sustainpunch · 5 years ago

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12 Unusual and Weird Guitar Designs

Unusual guitar designs never get old, they do, however, get more creative and a lot stranger.

From the bigfoot guitar to guitars built from Legos, and steampunk to Star Wars guitars, maybe not all of them sound great but they are definitely fun to look at.

What do you think of weird, crazy designs when it comes to your axe? Would you play a guitar that doubles as a sword?

There are hundreds of unusual designs for guitars throughout history, some play nicely, some never intended to actually been strummed yet all were a vision of an artist and we can appreciate that.

These are just a few of our favorites in no particular order that we think you will Enjoy!

Real Lego Guitar

The black Lego guitar is actually a fully functioning instrument with the complete case made out of the favorite childhood building blocks.

You can jam out with your friends, and if a block of the guitar falls off, just snap it back together.

The Lego guitar comes complete including pick-ups, bridge, and all of the functioning parts, all this beauty needs are some strings.

Seeing how Legos have been around for many decades I’m sure you have some in the attic so why not build your own?

Star Wars Guitars

While we’re on the subject of toys from childhood, how about some Star Wars guitars?

Designers and fans of the epic saga have found a way to incorporate Star Wars into just about anything, so guitars should come as no surprise. And we have to admit, they are kind of awesome.

Depending if you choose to play your (han) solo, or just rip off some C (3PO) cords there is no doubt you’ll be a force to be reckoned with.

Ultimate Steampunk Guitar

Steampunk is still as popular these days as the 1960s and 1970s, so it’s not surprising to find a few guitars out there made in this style.

These can get pretty elaborate, and they look great. Thunder Eagle guitars made a fun looking guitar from copper pipes and gears.

Complete with pipes and gauges and beautiful gears – the Thunder Eagle amazingly it sounds as good as it looks.

The creator modified a Rhodes Jackson V, using copper plating, some pickups, re-facing the gauge, and adding some wonderful paint effects.

Bigfoot Guitar

From the famous guitar maker George Marlin comes the magnificent BigFoot guitar, which he displayed at the Miami Beach Guitar Festival.

This original Sasquatch sound box is actually just the foot of Bigfoot.

An earlier attempt by Marlin at a full size Bigfoot guitar, was found to be too difficult to hold (at 10 feet long) and it was apparently scaring off the neighborhood kids as well.

Not sure how it sounds, but in rock n’ roll, image is most of the show and this guitar looks pretty freakin’ gnarly.

Swiss Guitar

Ron Thal, aka Bumblefoot, is famous for his stint with Guns N’ Roses. His custom Vigier double-neck better known as Double Foot and of course the Vigier Flying Foot guitar.

But it was his Ibanez Roadster Swiss Cheese Guitar that first gained him fame as an iconic designer.

Vigier even did a limited edition of replica “Swiss Cheese Guitars” which sold out quickly, even if it was a bit “cheesy”

Sword Guitar

Many guitars have taken a ‘stab�� at being designed around the concept of a sword. One of our favorites is the VLINE.

The unique VLINE ‘SWORD’ was made by Vincent Berton, a French Avant garde luthier in the early 1980s, who worked on the famous Paris guitar road – the Rue De Douai.

It looks like something from out of the Excalibur days. Can you imagine if King Arthur pulled this bad boy out of the stone and ripped off some riffs?

Mermaid Guitar

This one also happens to be a beautifully crafted guitar.

Andy Mason, the artist and musician responsible for this gorgeous yet completely bizarre, fully-functional guitar in the shape of a mermaid, built his first guitar in 1967 using whatever materials he was able to find in his father’s garage.

Ever since, the incredibly talented craftsman has made everything from lutes to mandolins—as well as a series of guitars for John Paul Jones and Jimmy Page.

A few of which, were of the elegantly double-necked variety that Page was especially well-known for playing.

Not exactly for Ariel fans, Mason’s life-sized “Mermaid” guitar took three years to build and is comprised of nineteen different types of wood.

And, according to Mason requires a guitarist with “sensuous posture” to be successfully played.

Prince Guitars

If you stop and think about musicians with the weirdest guitars, it probably won’t take too long until you get to this famous guy.

Not only was Prince a truly talented musician, he also happened to like playing weird, cool guitars.

Prince played a variety of unique guitars from his custom-built purple guitar, shaped like the symbol he once replaced his name with, to the Cloud Guitar and what is known as Purple Special, his final guitar.

Map Guitar

Now, this is where Gibson got really, really weird. Gibson’s Map guitar is shaped like the map of the United States of America.

Yes, somebody actually had that idea in mind. Although it was produced by Gibson, the original builder of this guitar was James Hutchins, and it was first sold under the Epiphone brand.

Surprisingly enough, it actually sold well. And after witnessing its success, Gibson decided to put their name on the headstock.

Aside from its non-ergonomic shape, the guitar has classic features, like two volume and two tone knobs, and two humbuckers.

There were, however, certain versions with three knobs. These were produced back in 1983 and 1984 and featured mahogany bodies and maple necks.

I guess if you’re touring the country and get lost you can just check your instrument for directions to your next gig.

Reverse Flying V

A Gibson classic, made in 2007 and 2008, the Reverse Flying V was manufactured in honor of the Flying V’s 50th anniversary.

Despite the odd shape, the guitar was a rather successful seller. After the initial series of 400 guitars, Gibson made an additional 900 pieces in 2008, 300 each in: Classic White, Natural, and Ebony Black.

The guitar’s headstock was “borrowed” from the old Futura/Explorer design conceived back in the late 1950s; it somehow went well with the reverse V shape.

The rest of the features are the same as the classic V, although there were some minor differences between the 2007 and 2008 series.

The Pikasso Guitar

Talk about a piece of art! Four necks. Two sound holes. 42 strings. Two access doors; one on the upper player’s side and one at the tail block.

Created by luthier Linda Manzer for guitarist Pat Metheny, the instrument took 2 years to build (approximately 1000 hours).

When the 42 strings are strung up to high tension, the Pikasso is under approximately 1000 lbs of pressure. It weighs 6.7 kg or 14 3/4 lbs.

The Pikasso Guitar was specially built for jazz fusion virtuoso Pat Metheny, who can play that stringed Escher painting better than the rest of us can do most things.

The body is tapered so that the side closest to the player is thinner than the side that rests on the player’s knee, thus leaning the top, back towards the player for a more aerial view. This is also more comfortable under the player’s arm.

The instrument is outfitted with a complete state of the art piezo pickup system. This included a hexaphonic pickup on the 6 string section.

This feature allowed Metheny to access his Syclavier computer system thus triggering any sound in the system, including sampled sounds.

Two mounting holes are placed on the treble side (knee side) so that the guitar can be mounted on internal brass insets and attached to a stand, leaving hands free for playing or viewing.

The Multi-Neck Guitar

Cheap Trick’s lead guitarist Rick Nielsen looks at your feeble double-neck guitar with its puny, two little necks, and just shakes his head.

Now we’ve seen multi-neck guitars before, but this one takes the cake.

Not sure any of us mortals could actually jam on this guy but we know Rick could play it or maybe it’s made for an octopus.

Conclusion

We realize that thousands of unusual guitars have been created and this is a small sample of what is out there and who is known for the weird guitars they played but our goal was to entice you to dig deeper into the realm of oddities out there and what is possible to turn into a jamming axe that is uniquely your own.

What is your favorite weird guitar out there and who plays it? Let us know in the comments below.

The post 12 Unusual and Weird Guitar Designs appeared first on Sustain Punch.

source https://www.sustainpunch.com/unusual-guitars/

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sustainpunch · 5 years ago

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Best XLR Cable For Your Studio Equipment

XLR cables are a great way to connect all of your audio devices.

They are incredibly versatile, and send a great quality signal from the input device to your output.

Whether you’re using the XLR cable to connect your guitar to its preamp or amplifier, using XLR connections for your favorite microphone, or as a way to send great sound from amplifier and mics, to your studio recording equipment, you can expect the best sound.

Model

Mogami Gold Studio-10 XLR Microphone Cable

AmazonBasics 3 Pin Microphone Cable

Cable Matters Premium Microphone Cable

Gearlux XLR Microphone Cable

EBXYA XLR Cable 10 Color Packs

MSRP

$49.95

$29.47

$15.99

$22.99

$55.99

Our Rating

Length

10 feet

50 Feet

6 feet

25 Feet

10 Feet

Male to female/or vice versa

XLR-Female to XLR-Male

XLR male to XLR female connection

XLR male to female cable

Male to Female

XLR Male to Female

Material

Wired with 24 AWG Mogami Neglex quad high-definition microphone cable

Copper conductor and shielding material

Oxygen-free copper conductors are encased in copper braid shielding

Oxygen-free copper (OFC) conductors AWG: #23 OD 6.0mm

Metal + rubber connector material and insulated dual oxygen free copper shielding & foil shielding

Jacket material

Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC)

Flexible PVC + PP (braided) jacket

Soft PVC jacket

PVC jackets

Durable PE jacket

More Information

SEE ON AMAZON

Model

Mogami Gold Studio-10 XLR Microphone Cable

MSRP

$49.95

Our Rating

Length

10 feet

Male to female/or vice versa

XLR-Female to XLR-Male

Material

Wired with 24 AWG Mogami Neglex quad high-definition microphone cable

Jacket material

Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC)

More Information

SEE ON AMAZON

Model

AmazonBasics 3 Pin Microphone Cable

MSRP

$29.47

Our Rating

Length

50 Feet

Male to female/or vice versa

XLR male to XLR female connection

Material

Copper conductor and shielding material

Jacket material

Flexible PVC + PP (braided) jacket

More Information

SEE ON AMAZON

Model

Cable Matters Premium Microphone Cable

MSRP

$15.99

Our Rating

Length

6 feet

Male to female/or vice versa

XLR male to female cable

Material

Oxygen-free copper conductors are encased in copper braid shielding

Jacket material

Soft PVC jacket

More Information

SEE ON AMAZON

Model

Gearlux XLR Microphone Cable

MSRP

$22.99

Our Rating

Length

25 Feet

Male to female/or vice versa

Male to Female

Material

Oxygen-free copper (OFC) conductors AWG: #23 OD 6.0mm

Jacket material

PVC jackets

More Information

SEE ON AMAZON

Model

EBXYA XLR Cable 10 Color Packs

MSRP

$55.99

Our Rating

Length

10 Feet

Male to female/or vice versa

XLR Male to Female

Material

Metal + rubber connector material and insulated dual oxygen free copper shielding & foil shielding

Jacket material

Durable PE jacket

More Information

SEE ON AMAZON

XLR cables were developed in the 1970s by the Cannon Company, to provide a better way to send audio signals to their cameras. The improvement in sound, combined with better reliability, made the XLR cables an immediate success.

Today, many companies manufacture their own versions of the XLR cable. And while there may be some limited differences from brand to brand, the XLR cable and connectors remain relatively unchanged.

The original XLR cable was a three pin, three signal cable. One ground, one positive, one negative. This separation of signals results in a stable, balanced signal, over a greater distance than with other cables.

In this buying guide, we’ll offer our suggestions for the best XLR cables on the market. We’ll tell you what we like, what could be better, and offer our suggestions for buying and who will benefit the most from the cable.

When we’re done with that, we’ll answer some of the most frequently asked questions about XLR cables, and put all the best information, all in one place.

So sit down, turn up the volume and get ready to rock with XLR cables.

Best XLR Cable For Your Studio Equipment

Mogami Gold STUDIO-10 XLR Microphone Cable

AmazonBasics 3 Pin Microphone Cable

Cable Matters Premium Microphone Cable

Gearlux XLR Microphone Cable

EBXYA 10 Feet XLR Cable 10 Color Packs

WINNER: Mogami Gold STUDIO-10 XLR Microphone Cable

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From large recording facilities to small project studios, engineers and artists trust Mogami GOLD STUDIO XLR Microphone Cables for professional results.

Mogami’s quad cable design is renowned for vastly improving the rejection of noise resulting in a 95% quieter background as compared to even the best 2-conductor microphone cable. The black, 10′ Mogami Gold Studio XLR Female to XLR Male Microphone Cable is a high-quality, 4-conductor cable.

It’s engineered for maximum rejection of RFI and EMI, accurate signal transmission with low noise, and durability. It uses the company’s Neglex twisted, double-conductor quad cable with a spiral, bare copper shield.

The Neglex quad cable is effective in maintaining signal integrity, even when used with unbalanced equipment, in professional or home studios suffering from wiring and grounding problems.

The cable is terminated with black-body, gold-plated XLR connectors, and features a 0.236″ diameter jacket, ideal for applications where a small-diameter quad mic cable is required.

Use Mogami GOLD STUDIO XLR Cables for pro audio sound with nearly any device equipped with an industry-standard XLR 3-pin input or output. Common uses include to and from mixers, preamps, amplifiers, audio interfaces, loudspeakers, powered speakers, studio monitors, and more.

Also excellent for use with amplifier, percussion, and vocalist mics as well as vocal effects, processors, and loopers.

Engineered to provide an enhanced dynamic range with a pin-drop quiet recording environment, Mogami GOLD STUDIO XLR Microphone Cables help to cure many of the problems encountered in a typical project or home studio.

Featured specs

Black body 3-pin XLR connectors and gold contacts.

Benefits

Excellent sound quality, multiple lengths, quality built, great warranty.

Drawbacks

Pricey, better for professional applications opposed to home recording studios.

Extra features

The Mogami GOLD STUDIO XLR Microphone Cable series is also available in 2, 3, 6, 15, 25, 50, 75, and 100 foot lengths.

Buying advice

Mogami has a lifetime “No Excuses” warranty so you don’t need to worry about returns.

RUNNER UP: AmazonBasics 3 Pin Microphone Cable

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Ideal for studio recording and live sound, the AmazonBasics Braided XLR Microphone Cable creates a reliable, high-quality connection for optimal audio. The microphone cable features premium XLR male and XLR female connectors.

The AmazonBasics microphone cable provides all-copper conductors and inner copper shielding, which reduces electromagnetic interference (EMI) and unwanted excess noise, like an audible buzz, for example. The high-quality cable allows the sound of an instrument or voice to flow through in a clear, natural, true-to-life way.

The microphone cable’s durable design ensures long-lasting strength and exceptional performance, from one gig to the next. The cable’s 3-pin XLR male to XLR female connection consists of a male connector that measures 18.2 mm in diameter and a female connector that measures 15.5 mm in diameter.

Choose from 6-foot, 10-foot, 25-foot and 50-foot lengths (each sold separately). The shorter cables work well for home studios and smaller stages, while the longer cables make a great option for larger platforms or when needing more leeway.

Featured specs

Copper conductor and shielding material helps capture clear sound while minimizing unwanted noise.

Benefits

Great budget cables, 2 pack, multiple lengths, flexible.

Drawbacks

Not great for recording, some noise.

Extra features

Choose from 6-foot, 10-foot, 25-foot and 50-foot lengths.

Buying advice

Backed by an AmazonBasics 1-year limited warranty.

ALTERNATIVE: Cable Matters Premium Microphone Cable

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This pro-grade microphone cord is designed for microphones or other professional recording, mixing, and lighting equipment with the 3 pin XLR connectors.

The convenient and cost-effective 2-pack of microphone cables provide spare or replacement XLR cables (XLR male to female cable) to use on a set of microphones or on different systems.

Balanced mic cable with soft PVC jacket is constructed with oxygen-free copper (OFC) conductors for delivering pristine sound. The unique braided copper shielding of these mic cables provides maximum cancellation of hum and noise, while polyethylene insulation improves high frequency response.

Heavy duty metal connectors with molded strain relief and grip treads increase durability and help easy plugging and unplugging.

The mic cord is compatible with equipment with 3-pin XLR connectors such as shotgun microphones, studio harmonizers, mixing boards, patch bays, preamps, speaker systems, and stage lighting with an XLR cable port.

Featured specs

2-Pack provides an XLR cable for two microphones.

Benefits

Cost-effective, thick and sturdy, clean sound.

Drawbacks

Not as durable, picks up a bit of external sound frequency.

Extra features

Available in 3, 6, 10, 15, 20, 25, 35 or 50 feet.

Buying advice

No warranty to speak of but at a value price not needed.

ALTERNATIVE: Gearlux XLR Microphone Cable

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Professional Quality Cables – Without the Professional Price Tag!

Gearlux cables have been designed and tested to provide years of dependable use without compromising on affordability. Use Gearlux XLR male to XLR female cables to connect any microphone with a 3 pin male connector to a PA system, mixer, preamp, or recording interface.

The oxygen-free copper (OFC) conductors in these noiseless cables enhance signal clarity while reducing outside interference – providing you with superb sound for both live and studio applications. Gearlux XLR cables are fully balanced and feature tough metal connectors for easy serviceability.

These XLR cables are a staple in any recording studio, church, theater or music venue, so stock up and save with Gearlux cable packs!

Featured specs

Guaranteed for life which is nice.

Benefits

Value price point, quality sound, multiple packs available.

Drawbacks

Pins are not as tight, some noise.

Extra features

Comes in 1,2,3,6 or 10 cable packs.

Buying advice

Ideal for studio and live applications.

BEST PACKAGE: EBXYA XLR Cable 10 Color Packs

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Ebxya True Balanced XLR patch cables with 3 wires and pins, come in 10 colors and are made with premium quality materials. These cables will take your clear, live, natural, sounds and move them by a high quality transmission, especially over a long distance or for a large gig, resulting in a natural, clear output.

You can apply EBXYA XLR Cable to your Microphone, Dmx Led Light, Mixer, Preamplifier, DI Box, Speaker System, Stage Mic, Stereo Level Converter, Voice Effects Box, Equalizer, Frequency Divider, Decoder, Electronic Organ and other stage or recording studio audio equipment.

You can use these XLR patch cable for the stage sound, press conference, KTV, recording studio, gigging band stage lighting, par lamps and your home theater/stereo.

This balanced XLR cable with dual shielded of Oxygen Free Copper (OFC) and Aluminium Foil, assure the XLR patch cable can be used as a DMX cable, microphone cable, or audio mixer cable, or other stage instrument cable for your recording studio or live performance.

Featured specs

10 different colors coding both connectors and cables.

Benefits

Super durable, waterproof, mold-proof, color coded.

Drawbacks

Not great for a DMX controller.

Extra features

10 color packs come in 2,3,6,10,15 or 25ft lengths.

Buying advice

Be sure to order correct length.

XLR Cable FAQ

Now that we’ve given you our picks for the best XLR cables available to you, we’ll answer some of the burning questions about XLR cables.

If you are new to playing an electric guitar, or if you are looking to upgrade your existing equipment, you will probably want to know some of the basic, handy information about XLR cables.

We also know that you would rather be playing and jamming out with your crew, than researching the things you want and need to know about XLR cables.

So we’ve done the hard work of scouring the internet and researching the basics about XLR cables, and we’ve answered your burning questions, and put all the information here, in one place.

What is an XLR cable used for?

XLR cables are used for a variety of applications, however, in the most basic, XLR cables are used in professional audio and lighting applications, whether they be live or in recording studios.

XLR cables are capable of carrying sound and lighting signals over a long distance, with little to no distortion. This is accomplished because of the configuration of the cable with a separate positive, negative, and ground line.

The three line configuration is the most basic of the XLR type cables, but is still as effective as cables with 4 or more lines. The variation in lines translates into the use of the XLR cable.

For instance, while the basic three line cable is perfect for transmitting simple audio from your guitar or microphone to an amplifier, a five pin XLR cable is good for relaying digital lighting information.

Four pin XLR cables are the standard for audio headsets, but is also commonly used for the DC power plug for video and filming equipment.

The great thing about XLR cables is that so long as you connect the same types of cables to each other, the system remains balanced, and the quality of the sound and video should be the best quality possible.

It is possible to connect different types of XLR cables, but if you do this, you should remember that the system will no longer be balanced and the quality of sound or video will be diminished.

Why is it called an XLR cable?

XLR is the shortened version of “External Line Return”.

XLR cables were invented to carry large electrical currents from audio and video equipment in a balanced manner.

The XLR cable was originally developed by Cannon as a way to create balanced sound or video from a cable, while also having a standardized plug that could be used in a variety of applications.

The original XLR cable developed by Cannon was filled with rubber, allowing the cable to resilient and flexible, while at the same time highly transmissive. The defining feature of the XLR cable, in its most basic form is the three pin connectors that give each cable a positive, negative and grounding line.

Is an XLR cable stereo?

If you look closely at your XLR cable, you will notice that it has three sockets or pins.

One for the positive, one for the negative and one ground line. These three pins make it seem like running one line as stereo is possible. In the eyes of many musicians and audio specialists, this would be a great idea, since it would reduce the number of cables that are necessary to have stereo sound.

In theory, it is possible to run stereo sound along the XLR cable.

However, this isn’t the greatest idea. First, the XLR connector and cable are designed to run a balanced signal. When you connect two cables together or when you plug your connector into a corresponding piece of equipment the system runs balanced.

If you change the flow of the connection, by using a different connector or by running one line as stereo, you unbalance the system.

There are times when it is possible to run stereo through an XLR cable, however, you will need to make sure that you are using a connector with a minimum of five pins (or lines).

Running an XLR system unbalanced will result in a sound that is less than quality, and you may experience noise, static or buzzing. If you really desire to use your XLR cables for stereo sound, you should use them when sound quality doesn’t have to be perfect, or if you can get by with a lower quality sound.

Keep in mind that this situation only applies when you are using the standard three pin XLR cable or 4 pin cable. If you upgrade all of your cables and connectors to five pin versions, you may have better luck running your system in stereo sound.

It is also interesting to note that many headphones work in the three pin, stereo format. In fact, in this arrangement, the sound quality in headphones, using the XLR cable, is better than what you would get with the standard headphone jack.

Are all XLR cables the same?

In general, all XLR cables are the same.

However there are some differences that could be mentioned. Keep in mind, that while there may be some minor differences between XLR cable types, or differences added in by manufacturers, in reality, there is little difference between the function and sound quality from cable to cable.

Where the difference in XLR cables lies is in the connector, and the application that the connectors are most useful for. For example, while the three pin connector is the standard, and you will see this configuration the most frequently, there are 4, 5 and 6 pin configurations as well. Each of these connector configurations are useful for particular applications.

Standard 3-pin: This configuration is the most common is used strictly for audio transmission. You’ll find 3-pin XLR on microphones, or the connection between preamps and amplifiers for guitars or other instruments.

4-pin: This configuration can be set in a couple of different ways. The first is with two open pins, one pin is the ground and the other pin is 12 volt power. This set up is common for professional video cameras.

The other configuration for four pin is used for intercom headsets. In this application, on pin is the ground, pin 2 is the “hot” input, pin 3 is the headphone ground or return, and pin 4 is the “hot” output.

5-pin: Five pin is the standard XLR connection set-up for professional lighting systems. In this configuration two lines are grounds, and the remaining three pins are for voltage and phantom power. This configuration has not traditionally been popular, however, companies like BAE Audio and JLM Audio have started to use the five pin configuration more frequently.

Does the XLR cable length matter?

When it comes to cable length, every cable type has limitations.

If you think about this, it is logical. Sound waves, or electrical currents, even with the best conductors and transmission environment will eventually lose strength, or slow down.

Depending on the application, signal being sent, and the type of cable, there are limitations to how far a signal will travel, before it runs out or needs a boost. Understanding the limitations of the cables that you are using for your audio needs will allow you to make the best choice for your instrument, sound board or microphone.

When it comes to the XLR cable there are two different values that you should be aware of. There is the “official” distance where the output quality is the same as when it started, without significant change. This is the optimal performance length of the cable.

There is also the “theoretical” length. This is the length that independent research or antidotal length that is possible, and still retain a decent output result.

In the case of the XLR cable, the official length that you can use, with minimal sound or power distortion is 100 feet. This is probably more distance than most performers or sound technicians will ever need to use. And as a musician, this might even be too much.

Keep in mind, 100 feet of XLR cable might work just fine, but you still have to drag that stuff around. One hundred feet of cable can be cumbersome and impractical to haul around.

If you use a shielded, high quality XLR cable, you should be able, in theory to maintain a high level signal without boosting. Keep in mind that this is a theoretical value, and the likelihood that this would actually work, without there being some sort of an issue, is slim.

Conclusion

So, there you have it, everything you need to know about using XLR cables for your recording and live sound equipment.

These great cables will provide you quality sound transmission, even over greater distances, without the risk of additional noise or interference. We’ve provided you with our picks for great XLR cables, so that you don’t have to work hard to find what’s right for you.

If you have questions or thoughts about XLR cables that we missed, put them in the comment section, below!

The post Best XLR Cable For Your Studio Equipment appeared first on Sustain Punch.

source https://www.sustainpunch.com/best-xlr-cable-for-your-studio-equipment/

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sustainpunch · 5 years ago

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Should I Start with Acoustic or Electric Guitar?

So, you’ve decided that you want to learn how to play the guitar?

Playing an instrument is a great way to enhance your life, and stimulate your brain. There are lots of myths out there about the best way to learn how to play the guitar. Lots of people think that it’s easier to start on the acoustic guitar, some think the electric guitar is better.

There are many facts and reasons that people on both sides of the fence use to support their assertion that one type of guitar is better to learn on, than the other. But the reality is, when it comes to learning to play guitar, whether you’re interested in acoustic or electric, the basics are pretty much the same.

So, how do you decide where to start? Electric or Acoustic?

In this article, we’ll give you some thoughts on how to decide whether the electric guitar or the acoustic guitar is best to learn on.

And we’ll address some of the common myths associated with learning to play the guitar.

What’s Easier?

So this is probably the most confusing of the guitar myths.

Some people say that learning to play the acoustic guitar is the easiest, some people say that learning to play the electric guitar is easier. Ok, that’s really confusing.

So what is easier?

The fact is, both guitar types have their own challenges and benefits that make learning on them simple, but at the same time challenging. Let’s break this down.

Starting with the acoustic guitar – lots of people start playing the guitar on the acoustic version and transition to the electric. With the acoustic guitar, what you see is what you get.

You don’t have to worry about amplifiers, or wires, or extra accessories. The acoustic guitar is a simple, basic instrument. For some learners, this is the best reason to start with the acoustic guitar.

However, many learners think that the acoustic guitar is harder to play because the strings are thicker, and require more finger strength to depress. While this is the case, a good music store can restring an acoustic guitar with thinner strings.

And while string thickness can add challenges, the strings are set further apart, so finger placement is easier for beginners. Your fingers have room to move, and making chords is a bit more forgiving on an acoustic guitar than an electric.

On the flip side, lots of people like the idea of playing the electric guitar and think that it is an easier place to start. Electric guitars tend to be smaller in size, which can make them easier to manage. They also have thinner strings, which can be easier for small fingers to manipulate.

However, the electric guitar does require some extra equipment and these added extras might be too much for some learners, but at the same time an added incentive for others.

With both acoustic and electric guitars having pros and cons when it comes to ease, this is not the defining reason to pick one over the other. So, we’ll have to cover other factors to determine which guitar type you should start with.

Music Type

This may be the best way to decide which guitar type you should start learning on. Ask yourself this question, “What kind of music do I want to play?”

If you dream of one day being in a rock band and playing epic electric riffs, then you should start learning on the electric guitar. First of all, starting where your focus is, makes it more motivating to learn. If you really, really want to play rock music, learning the classics on an acoustic guitar can be disappointing. And unmotivating.

On the other hand, if you love classical guitar or have a thing for country or folk music, an electric guitar isn’t going to be your instrument of choice. If your interest lies in these genres of music, avoid starting with the electric guitar, and go straight to acoustic.

You’ll be able to learn the techniques of these music styles, and you’ll hear the right results from the get go. And, like we said with the electric guitar, picking the right instrument for the music you want to play, makes it easier, and more motivating to practice and play.

Cost

This is another big decider for some people. Cost. There is a big difference in cost of instruments between electric and acoustic guitars.

If you are on a budget, even if you want to play guitar in a rock band, you may want to first invest in an acoustic guitar. Acoustic guitars are relatively inexpensive, and require very few added accessories to make them work (we’ll discuss this next).

While they may not be the highest quality, you can buy a decent beginners acoustic guitar, for less than $100. For less than $200 you can get a complete beginners acoustic guitar kit that includes a case, strap, picks, and other handy accessories.

Of course, if you want a better quality instrument, you’ll pay more, but when you’re starting out, the basics will work great.

There are also affordable options on the market for beginner electric guitars. However, it is important to note that when it comes to quality and decent sound, you get what you pay for with electric guitars and their necessary accessories.

Your electric guitar will need an amplifier. Low cost amplifiers may not have great sound quality, and you may end up frustrated with how your music sounds.

To avoid frustration, invest in a better quality kit. Beginner electric guitar kits can start at less than $100, but you’ll find a better sound experience, if you start your shopping in the $200 range.

Necessary Extras

If you don’t want to haul around a bunch of extra stuff, and you just want to play music, your best bet is the acoustic guitar.

Like we mentioned before, you don’t need cords or amplifiers, or even straps or cases to make an acoustic guitar work. All you need is your fingers and a desire.

If you really want to play the electric guitar, you’ll just need to understand that there are some added extras that make the experience better, and could be considered necessary. To get the best sound experience from your electric guitar, you will need an amplifier and the necessary wires and cords that are used to connect your guitar to the amplifier.

Electric guitars also use pedals that can change and distort the sound that comes from your electric guitar. To get the most from your instrument, you’ll want to buy some extra pedals and play around with sound effects.

These added extras are fun, and make your electric guitar more diverse, but at the same time, if you’re on a budget, can be pricey.

Size

Size shouldn’t really be a determining factor, but it can be for some people. Electric guitars come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The size of the electric guitar generally won’t impact the sound quality or the construction quality of the instrument.

This variability in shapes and sizes can make the electric guitar more appealing for individuals of smaller stature. The ability to comfortably handle the instrument, and play without a big reach can be a big deciding factor, and oftentimes leads people to select electric guitars over an acoustic.

Most guitar teachers will tell you that you shouldn’t use a smaller size acoustic guitar. Smaller acoustic guitars are generally lower quality and often don’t have the best sound quality.

Even small adults and teenagers should start learning on a full-size acoustic guitar. The exception to this rule is for kids that are less than 10 years old.

Smaller children will struggle with the reach around a full size acoustic guitar. Youth sized acoustic guitars are perfect for younger learners, but they should move to a full size acoustic guitar as soon as they are able.

Sound Variability

This can be another big deciding factor for some people. To be frank, you only get one sound with the acoustic guitar. For some people this can be very appealing, for others, a turn-off.

If you are looking for an instrument that gives you a wide range of sounds and versatility in music styles, an electric guitar is right down your alley. Pedals and other distortion add-ons allow the player to make all sorts of sounds with a single electric guitar.

For kids (and some adults, too), this can be a fun motivator to encourage practicing and playing.

The simplicity of a single sound, may be attractive to some people, so if you want to keep it simple, and enjoy the sound of the acoustic guitar, this is the right choice for you.

Now that we’ve broken down the myths, and covered some of the reasons why people select one type of guitar over the other, the answer to our original question is, it really depends on you.

Neither guitar type is easier than the other to learn on. And each has its pros and cons when it comes to cost, sound and accessories. Our best advice is that you pick the instrument that best fits the style that you’re interested in.

This will make it more fun to play, and you’ll find that learning is easier and faster when you’re happy.

The post Should I Start with Acoustic or Electric Guitar? appeared first on Sustain Punch.

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sustainpunch · 5 years ago

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How to Restring an Electric Guitar

Restringing a guitar is a good, basic skill that experienced guitarists can benefit from learning.

Especially if you are on the road with your electric guitar or don’t have a local music store to run to, you’ll want to learn how to restring your own guitar.

On the whole, the strings on an electric guitar will need to be changed more frequently than the strings of steel-string or classic guitars, depending on usage and bridges.

While serious players will likely change their strings monthly, or sooner, most players should change strings every 3-4 months.

Changing strings on your electric guitar should be a straightforward process, though it does take some practice.

Here are some easy steps to follow when you change your electric guitar’s strings.

What should you know before restringing an electric guitar?

You need to change your strings if they are rusty, falling out of tune quickly or gummy.

Professional guitar players change their strings frequently.

Some professionals restring their guitar on a weekly basis, others will wait a bit longer.

Also, if you’re playing somewhere important or have a big concert, changing the strings the morning before you actually play. This will ensure that your guitar has the best possible sound.

Before removing the strings, note the path that they have.

If you are attempting to restring your guitar for the first time, take a picture before removing the old strings, so you know how everything should look.

Some guitars have special winding patterns or holes through which the strings have to go through, so it’s important to pay attention to those details.

Don’t just cut the strings off of the guitar, unless you have no other alternative. Instead, turn the tuning machine so that the string gets loosened.

Loosen the string in this manner until you can pull the string out by hand.

Remember, when stretched and in-tune, guitar strings are under a decent amount of tension, releasing them slowly is safer for you and your guitar.

Electric guitarists need to change their strings more often than do acoustic guitarists.

Because of this, electric guitars are built with hardware that makes the process of changing strings very quick and easy.

Of the three types of guitars — steel-string acoustic, classical, and electric — you can change the strings on electric guitars most easily by far.

Tools

Fresh New Strings — preferably the same gauge as those currently on the guitar. Changing gauges will require minor set-up work beyond the scope of this article.

Peg Winder

Decent string or wire cutters.

Tuner

Stumpy Flat-Head Screwdriver — some guitars, such as PRSs with their locking tuners, may require additional tools.

Workbench, Neck Rest, and Guitar Pad —a padded workbench with a neck support makes it much easier and faster to change strings. If the guitar is in your lap, make sure to keep it flat so nothing falls out of the bridge of the guitar when a string is off.

Things to consider when buying new strings

You might have one of the best electric guitars available, some highly-appreciated effects pedals, or amp, yet if you don’t have the right strings for your instrument and technique, all those items won’t help you much.

The strings are the only things between you, your guitar, and the sounds produced. Neglecting your strings or buying poor quality strings can be a huge mistake.

To make sure you get the right strings for your needs, you need to consider the music genre you want to play, your playing style, how often you play, and the tone and sound you want to achieve.

You should thus consider the string gauge or thickness, the materials, the winding method used for strings, and the use or lack of coatings. All these factors will impact the sonic output.

The market offers light, medium, thick, and hybrid strings as far as the gauge is concerned.

Thicker guitar strings are used for lower notes and will thus help you produce bass frequencies. Thinner gauge strings will help you with higher frequencies.

There are various materials used in the manufacture of electric guitars strings.

These differences will not only provide variations in the sounds they produce, but they also provide different levels of durability.

The winding method used for the strings also has a lot to say when it comes to playability and tone.

How to restring an electric guitar:

Remove the old string. You can cut the wire and unwind it from the post, or, if you want to save it, unwind the tuning mechanism until you can remove the string. Loosen old strings with a winder to save time. If you want to save the old string, coil it up, otherwise toss it in the trash.

Clean and Prep. What good are fresh strings if they’re about to be put on a dirty guitar? You may not notice when the strings are on, but the oils from your fingers can make the neck and fretboard greasy and dirty. Before installing new strings, gently wipe down the neck, and oil the fretboard with lemon oil.

Anchor the string at the bridge by passing the string through the hole (from the back or bottom of the guitar) until the ball stops the movement. The ball holds the string in place just like a knot at the end of a piece of thread holds a stitch in fabric.

Pass the string through the hole in the post. Be sure that the strings go into the correct slot in the nut. Leave enough slack between the bridge pin and the tuning post, allowing you to wind the string around the post several times. Why’s that important? So that each string has the same amount of wind wrapped around and therefore the same elasticity when you do a string bends.

Crease the metal wire toward the center of the electric guitar’s headstock. Crease the playing side of the string against the tuner hole – this marks out the length we will use. With your right hand, hold the string and present some tension – this will hold everything tight as we wind. Leave enough slack for winding.

While keeping the string tight against the post with one hand, wind the tuning peg clockwise with the other hand. We’re beginning the wrap-lock now so wrap the loose side of the string clockwise back round the tuner and feed it under the crease you made in the string. Keep the tension with your right hand as you do this. For a left-handed tuner you’ll be wrapping counter-clockwise to follow the same logic. This can be tricky, and it can take a few tries to get it right.

Holding tension with your right hand, bend the loose side of the string up and over the crease with your left hand. This makes a sharp hoop and is the start of our lock. Tug the loose end to give the string a good bend. Let go of the loose tail and wind away. Don’t slack tension with your right hand, otherwise your wind will be loose and sloppy. To make this process faster, use a wind assist.

After the string is secure, cut off the excess and tune up the guitar. The string won’t hold the tuning for very long in the beginning because it’s still stretching. After you tune them up, gently stretch each string in a few places and retune. Do this three or four times and your strings will start to stay in tune.

Different styles of electric guitar bridges and how to restring them

Les Paul Bridge

A lot of times Les Paul guitars can go out of tune because of string slippage or even just bad strings. If you play your Les Paul a lot, change your strings weekly.

This keeps the strings alive and full of bounce. The only thing worse than dead strings is string buzz.

Unlike some guitars, the Les Paul or Tune-o-matic style bridge is pretty easy to change strings. Let’s get started.

Removing the old strings: First, we need to remove the old strings. I usually just down tune the strings until they are floppy. When you are dropping the string tension, pay close attention to the bridge. Most Les Paul tailpieces are not physically attached to the bridge. They are just held in place by the string tension. After the tension is gone, the tailpiece will fall right out.

Clean the Fretboard: You can use any number of special fretboard cleaning products to clean your fretboard, but I like to use Murphy’s Oil Soap. Oil soap not only helps clean your fretboard, it also helps condition and moisturize it. Since your fretboard is unfinished, there is no layer of lacquer to help protect it from the elements. The fretboard can dry out and crack if it is severely dried out. Oil soap will prevent your fretboard from drying out. It will also give your fretboard a new clean shine.

Restringing your Les Paul: First, line up all of the tuning postholes, so the holes are open toward the nut. This way the string can go straight through the tuning post. Wrap the string around the post approximately three times. This keeps the string from slipping when the guitar is tuned. Now bend the string in a 90-degree angle. This bend will help keep the string from pulling out of the tuner while you are tightening the tension.

Stretching the strings: Whenever you change the strings on your guitar, it is important to stretch the new strings. Stretching your strings will help keep them in tune better later on. It’s important to do this to all the strings. Stretching the string will initially make your guitar go out of tune, so you’ll have to retune it one more time.

Next, pull up on the string to maintain tension on it while you are turning the tuning button with your string winder.

Make sure each new wrap of the string is below or underneath the previous wrap. Wrapping the strings like this prevents the strings from slipping when you bring it up to pitch.

The tapered tuning post squeezes the string in the post’s hole by forcing the wrapped strings toward the center of the post. Use this process for each string.

Now your Les Paul is all set to play. Plug it into your amp and crank it up!

Classic Fender Bridge

Fender Stratocaster® style guitars usually have a tremolo bridge. This feature makes restringing a Fender slightly different.

The strings are inserted through the back of the guitar through the tremolo bridge.

If you have trouble lining up the strings with the holes of the bridge, remove the faceplate on the back of the guitar.

On most guitars the tuning pegs have a hole in the center for the string to be inserted into.

The string will need to be cut before inserting it into the tuning peg, so there is not too much extra string to work with.

Hold the string in place and slightly tight against neck. Cut the string about 2-3 tuning pegs above the tuning peg for the string you’re putting on.

This will give the string enough length to be wound around the tuning peg.

Insert the cut string into the hole in the center of the tuning peg and bend the string at a 90 degree angle in the tuning peg.

Begin winding the string so the string wraps around the tuning peg counter-clockwise.

Repeat the steps for each string.

Tune up the guitar. New strings will adjust and settle more after you tune up and start playing.

Stretch the strings by gently pulling them upward from the fretboard and pushing the string down at different frets with your other hand.

Floyd Rose Bridge

Guitars fitted with a Floyd Rose mechanism will have a slightly different process for restringing.

Step 1

Remove the string clamp from the locking nut. Use the 3mm hex wrench, provided with your guitar, to loosen the low E and A string clamps.

Unwind the low E string from its tuning post first. The process we use for the E string will be used for each of the other strings.

Unlike with other guitars you won’t remove all your strings. Replacing one string at a time with a Floyd Rose bridge is necessary.

Replacing one string at a time maintains consistent string tension so that you don’t have to re-balance your bridge.

Step 2

Remove the string from the bridge. Use your 3mm wrench to loosen the string lock screw that pushes the saddle block tight against the string.

Before installing the new string, use your string cutter to remove the ball end of the string.

Step 3

Install the new string. Insert the cut end of the string into the saddle directly in front of the saddle block. Use your 3mm hex wrench to secure the string in the saddle.

Hand tighten it first and then use the wrench to snug it up. Cranking too hard can strip the screw, so be careful!

Slide the string through the tuning post at the headstock and leave a little slack.

Even with a locking nut, your windings should still descend the post without overlapping for maximum tuning stability.

Step 4

Stretch your strings! With a Floyd Rose, stretching your strings is crucial. Stretch your string across the entire length of the fretboard and then re-tune.

Continue re-tuning and stretching until the pitch stabilizes. Stretching once will not be enough.

If your strings are properly stretched, your bridge will return to the proper tilt and pitch when the whammy bar is not in use.

The locking nut mechanism that we removed in step one stabilizes both the E and A string, so before we move on, repeat steps 1-4 for the A string.

Step 5

Fine-tuning. Time to play is almost here, but first you’ll want to dial in the pitch of your instrument.

Set the fine-tuner so that about two-thirds of the threads are showing, then tighten your locking nut at the headstock. This will give plenty of play in the string.

Pro Tip: Once the locking nut is tightened, don’t use the headstock tuners or you could break your strings.

The steps above apply to all of the remaining strings so repeat the process until your new strings are all tuned up and you’re ready to rock!

Signs that new strings are needed

If playing the guitar is nothing new to you and you’ve already gained significant experience in this field, it might not be difficult to tell when it’s time to change your strings.

However, if this is your first guitar, there are some signs will let you know when it’s time for new strings.

One of the first and easiest things to notice is that keeping your instrument in tune becomes more challenging.

Not to mention that staying in tune might be just a matter of minutes before you need to get the instrument in tune again. Even after tuning your guitar, the tone produced might sound wrong.

The way the strings look will also tell you if it is time to invest in new strings.

If they are discolored and rusty or the wraps have come unwound, exposing the core, it’s crystal clear that they won’t be of much use anymore.

If you’ve noticed any or all of these signs, heading to a music store for new strings is the thing to do.

Choosing the right ones for your guitar is crucial, though, and we’ll cover this topic below.

How often should you change your electric guitar strings?

The answer to this question varies from one player to another, yet there are some key things to consider to understanding the timing that is best for you.

One of the first things to take into account regarding the frequency of your practice sessions or gigs.

If you play more frequently than just once in a while, or you take this instrument seriously, chances are good that you will need to change the strings more often than amateur players.

Also, if you change tunings quite often, the strings might become useless sooner.

Plus, think of the environments you play in.

Is there a lot of smoke or do you smoke while playing?

Weather elements and smoke might shorten the life of your electric guitar strings.

Additionally, if you sweat a lot and your perspiration gets on the strings, they can fail quicker and require replacement sooner.

Finally, your playing style counts a lot when it comes to how long your strings last.

If you often adopt a more aggressive style and there’s a lot of hard picking and bending involved, be ready to change the strings more often.

The quality of the strings you use plays a lot into the durability of your strings, even when many of the factors mentioned above are involved.

That’s why it is best to invest in premium-grade strings that will cover your needs for a longer time if you play frequently.

Guitar string maintenance tips

The way you take care of your strings is also an important factor as far as their lives are concerned.

With a few simple tips, you can prolong the life of your electric guitar strings, and in turn, replace them less frequently.

Make sure you wipe down the strings with a clean cloth after every practice session or gig.

Dust, perspiration, or other elements on the surface of the string can shorten their life.

If playing the guitar is not just a spare time activity, you might want to consider getting cleaning tools that were specifically designed for strings.

It is best to wash your hands before your practice session or gig in order to prevent string oxidation.

The oils from your hands, the food you suck down before your gig, and even lotions or fragrances can stick to your strings. This will make them sticky and less springy.

Even if you follow these tips, other factors might damage a string.

To avoid unpleasant events, make sure your gear and maintenance kit includes some extra single strings or even an extra set.

If a string breaks, you can change it immediately, and keep playing without delay.

Light gauge strings are preferred by some musicians, but they tend to break more easily.

If you prefer light gauge strings, make sure you buy in bulk, so you don’t have to constantly run to the music store for backups.

Many factors affect the durability of the strings you use and thus how often you need to change them.

The quality of the materials employed, the way you play, and how much and often you clean them, all have a word to say as far as string life is regarded.

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sustainpunch · 5 years ago

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What is a Piezo Pickup? The Ultimate Guide

Getting the best sound from your guitar sometimes requires a little help.

If you love your acoustic guitar and want more sound, or want to amplify your sound, you need to find a way to convert the sound created by the strings of your instrument, into an electrical signal that can be sent to your amp.

This is easily accomplished on an electric guitar that uses metal strings. However, when it comes to playing an acoustic guitar that uses nylon strings, this can be a completely different challenge, all together. The answer for amplifying the sound of your acoustic guitar (and your electric guitar too) is the piezo pickup.

The piezo pickup is built into the bridge of your guitar, and is a great way to add volume to your acoustic guitar.

It’s also a great way to create a more acoustic-type sound to your electric guitar. Active and passive pickups are a great way to amplify the sound of your guitar.

Using a piezo pickup is a great solution for any guitarist that wants more from their guitar, without having to make a ton of modifications, or spend a ton of money.

How do piezo pickups work?

Before we start breaking down some of the fine details about using a piezo pickup on your guitar, it is important that we share with you how they work.

Piezo pickups are a nice alternative to traditional magnetic pickups, for your electric guitar and a must have for your acoustic guitar, or other stringed instruments such as fiddles, standup bass and banjo.

Let’s start with the basic science of all pickups, before we delve directly into piezo pickups. Pickups work much like a microphone. Their purpose is to take the subtle sounds made by the strings of your guitar and make that sound bigger.

Pickups are generally built directly into your electric guitar, but are an option that can also be added to your acoustic guitar. Most pickups use magnets, convert the vibrations made by the strings of your guitar, into an electrical signal.

This signal is converted by the preamp or amp back into sound that can be heard or is louder.

Piezo or piezo-electric (the full name) pickups work slightly different than a magnetic pickup. Instead of using a magnet to create an electrical signal, piezo pickups use crystals to create the electric signal necessary for amplifying the sound from your guitar.

The use of crystals make it possible to amplify or “pickup” the sound from acoustic instruments, which typically use nylon strings instead of metal. The piezo pickup uses the pressure from the strings to create the electric current instead of creating current through vibrations on magnets.

The advantage here is that piezo pickups are a natural fit for acoustic instruments.

Another difference between piezo pickups and magnetic pickups is that they are added to the bridge of the guitar. While magnetic pickups are built into the guitar, piezo pick-ups are set into the bridge. They can be added after the fact and can be changed as you upgrade or look for different sounds.

Do piezo pickups need preamp?

The use of a preamp with your pickup is really dependent on the type of instrument that you are putting it on, and what kind of sound you are looking for.

If you are using a piezo pickup on your electric guitar, you generally don’t need to use preamp to boost the sound. The pickup will work directly with the electronics already built into the guitar.

However, some guitarists feel that the sound created with a piezo pickups on an electric guitar can sound buzzy or static. If this is the case with your electric guitar, you will want to add preamp before the amp to smooth out the sound.

Because the piezo pickup creates such a wide range of frequencies, while a preamp isn’t necessary, it can help.

Many guitarists like to follow their piezo pickup with a buffer preamp to condense the frequencies, and reduce the buzz and clipping that can be created by the pickup on an electric guitar.

Since acoustic instruments don’t already function with electricity, a preamp with the piezo pickup is going to be necessary.

The preamp for an acoustic instrument will take the quiet sound made by the strings and give it an additional boots.

You won’t have to worry about the same buzz or hum that happens with an electric guitar, with your acoustic instrument.

Whether your electric guitar needs a preamp also depends on if you are playing an instrument with active or passive electronics. We’ll discuss the idea of pickups as passive and active a bit more later in this article, however, this is an important factor in whether you need a preamp or not.

Since an active electronics guitar already has a built in preamp, you won’t need one with an active electronics guitar. If your guitar is passive, you should consider a preamp, unless you are ok with the buzz and hum that can be created by the piezo pickup.

Do piezo pickups need a battery?

Piezo pickups do need a battery. Because they do not generate electricity like a magnetic pickup, you will need to “power” your pickup with a battery.

Most piezo pickups only require a small amount of power, with the strongest relying on a 9 volt battery for power. Some piezo pickups may use smaller batteries, and if weight or bulk are an issue for you, you will want to research the type of battery that is used in the piezo pickup that you are interested in.

There are plenty of options out there, so you should be able to find the right fit for your instrument and your needs.

Some guitarists don’t love the idea of adding a battery to their setup.

Batteries add weight, and for some people that is just too much. Electric guitars already are a bit on the heavy side for some guitarists so the added weight of a battery plus a preamp, can be a turn off for some musicians.

If you want to keep your instrument light, a magnetic pickup may be a better option for you than a piezo pickup.

However, if you are playing an acoustic guitar, you will have no other option than to use a battery powered piezo pickup with a preamp.

Can you cut a piezo pickup?

The great thing about piezo pickups is that you can modify them to fit your particular guitar.

Cutting a piezo pickup is an easy thing to do, especially if you are using the disc style piezo. Strip type piezos are bit more challenging to modify, but it is possible.

Because you don’t have magnets and electronics that you have to work around, making basic size modifications to fit your particular instrument can be done.

The reality is that all you need is a pair of very sharp scissors or wire cutters to make size modifications to a piezo pickups.

When you are making size modifications to your piezo pickup it is important that you avoid dull cutting tools.

Crushing or cracking the crystals in your piezo pickup will impact the quality of sound and basic function of the pickup.

Using very sharp scissors or wire cutters will allow you to cut the pickup’s crystals without crushing them or damaging them.

However, there are so many different piezo pickups on the market, made for a variety of different size and types of guitars that you shouldn’t need to modify a piezo pickup, if you buy the right one.

If you buy a piezo pickup, and it isn’t quite right, and you don’t feel comfortable making modifications, contact the professionals at your local guitar store.

They can help you make the necessary modifications without damaging the pickup.

Can active pickups be used as passive?

Before we talk about using active pickups as passive, it is important that we first discuss the difference between the two.

Active and passive are terms that you will hear frequently in the world of guitars.

Passive pickups and guitars are the most basic on the market.

The technology that is used to create the electrical signal from the vibration of the guitar strings is old, and is well tested. However, the volume of the signal created is small, so using a preamp is necessary when using a passive pickup or guitar.

The preamp will boost the sound, and make it louder.

The problem with passive electronics is that the use of multiple wires and coils causes a buzz or hum from the guitar.

This added noise can be distracting and is undesirable for many guitarists.

The use of the preamp is also necessary to reduce the “noise” created through the passive pickup.

Active pickups and guitars are those that have additional power that is used to create or boost the electrical signal created by your guitar.

Active guitars are not as frequently seen, but active pickups are quite common.

Active pickups are much more simple than the passive pickup.

An active pickup still uses magnets and wire coils, but fewer.

This simplicity is what makes the use of batteries and preamps a necessity for active preamps.

So, can you make an active pickup, passive?

That’s a tricky question. The best answer is, it’s not a great idea, but it can be done.

Most active pickups are powered.

They use a battery to boost the sound created by the pickup, instead of relying on an active preamp.

Your active pickup can be used as passive, if there is a mechanism to disconnect the power/battery from the pickup.

While this is possible with some pickups, and you will get the passive sound profile from your active pickup, you create other issues, when trying to use an active pickup, in a passive manner.

What is the advantage of active pickups?

There are a few advantages to using active pickups.

They aren’t the right answer for every guitarist, however, for those that understand the benefits, and how the active pickup works, there can be a great deal of usefulness in the addition of an active pickup to your guitar.

First, because your active pickup is powered, it doesn’t necessarily require a preamp.

An active pickup creates a fairly noise free sound, that is substantial in volume, eliminating the need for an added preamp.

If you are looking for a simple guitar system, and want to reduce the amount of extras that you have to carry around, an active preamp will keep your system simple and free of unnecessary “stuff”.

Second, it is much easier to manipulate EQ and distortion using an active pickup.

Because the active pickup works directly with the controls on your electric guitar, you can easily adjust EQ and other distortion factors, using the built in knobs on your active guitar.

This can, in some cases, eliminate the need for additional pedals, and again, keeping your guitar setup simple, and free of unwanted or unnecessary equipment.

Conclusion

Piezo pickups are a great solution for creating a warm, clean sound on both your acoustic and electric guitars.

And, while the piezo pickup does need the addition of a preamp, especially on acoustic guitars, it is a more versatile choice and can work on a greater number of guitars, stringed instruments, and with a variety of string configurations.

This passive system for picking up and boosting the sound of your guitar is simple to use, easy to modify and a great solution for guitarists of all skill levels.

The post What is a Piezo Pickup? The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Sustain Punch.

source https://www.sustainpunch.com/piezo-pickup/

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sustainpunch · 5 years ago

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Everything You Should Know About Whammy Bars

It’s tough to enjoy all types of guitar music without the thrill of the whammy bar.

Some understandably despise the whammy, while others only jam with one.

Either way, you should acquaint yourself with the knowledge of what makes these guitar additions so unique.

Not every guitar has one of these magical little apparatuses but, among those that do there is a wide variety and diverse setups that each require a different format.

You can utilize a whammy bar for a vast variety of playing styles and types of music from the subtle cat purr to heavy metal dive bombs and the awesome textural variety of bands.

A large portion of playing guitar is sense of feel and it’s amazing what this little lever can do to enhance that sense.

The reality is, many guitarists don’t appreciate what makes one whammy bar different from the next.

Fortunately, we’ve created this article to enlighten you with all the whammy bar information you’ll ever need.

What do whammy bars do?

A Whammy bar, or as it sometimes known, a tremolo bar simply alters the tension on the strings all at once.

Some guitars with whammy bars have what is called a floating tremolo, which means the strings can be loosened, lowering the pitch, by pushing the bar towards the guitar body, or the strings can be tightened, therefore raising the pitch by pulling the bar away from the body of the guitar.

Because the tension of each string is different, and the effect of the changing tension differs, depending on the frequency of the note, the variation in the pitches of each string is dramatically different, so the guitar does not stay in tune as the bar is moved.

The drawback of a whammy bar installed on your guitar is that when you break a string, the entire guitar goes out of tune because the tuning is a balance between the string tension and the whammy bar springs on the underside of the guitar.

When one string breaks, the spring tension pulls harder on the remaining strings sending them out of tune as well.

What’s the difference between a whammy bar and a tremolo bar?

Let’s start by getting the terminology straight: tremolo/vibrato/whammy bar/arm, and tremolo/vibrato system/tremolo bridge all refer to pretty much the same things.

Technically, the effect is a change in vibrato, because manipulating the bar changes pitch. Tremolo, on the other hand, refers to a change in volume.

But the two terms have come to be used almost interchangeably. Whammy is just the nickname for the locked tremolos.

Usually people use the term Whammy when it’s a “tremolo” that can be dive-bombed, abused, frilled, etc.

The proper term for the “whammy bar” is “vibrato arm“. A “tremolo system” refers to all components of the tremolo unit, which can include the tailpiece, the bridge, the nut and the tremolo bar.

And it helps to know that the terms “tremolo bar”, “vibrato bar” and “whammy bar” are all used interchangeably—as are the terms “bar” and “arm”.

Why is it called a whammy bar?

The term “whammy” is an onomatopoeic slang term that has come into use since the 1950s. It is most often associated with bridges that can perform extreme pitch bends.

The first whammy bar came from the Fender Stratocaster design, and were followed later by the Floyd Rose and Kahler designs.

There are two main types of whammy bars, the detachable ones (Floyd Rose and Fender style) and whammy bars that require a tailpiece (Bigsby).

A Whammy bar is a lever attached to the bridge or tailpiece of an electric guitar that can be depressed to increase the tension of the strings and produce such effects as vibrato, portamento, and dive bomb.

Who invented the whammy bar?

Whammy bars, are often referred to as tremolo or vibrato bridges.

If we’re getting down to details, are pretty commonly found on popular electric guitars throughout the world.

They go back to the 1930s when Doc Kauffman created and patented the very first mechanical vibrato unit.

After building this device, originally known as the “Vibrola,” on a few Epiphone Archtop guitars during the late ‘30s, the design took off. Every guitar company wanted in on the action.

Merle Travis, a favorite country guitarist of the time, was sick of his guitar going out of tune thanks to his unreliable, spring-loaded Vibrola.

He commissioned his friend, Paul Bigsby, to fix it. Paul ended up going overboard with his “fix” and ended up creating the first true vibrato system, the Bigsby.

The Bigsby Vibrato has a rocker bridge as the main component. Instead of the strings going through holes, they wrap around a metal bar that is attached to the tremolo arm.

A guitarist can push the arm down and loosen the strings to get the drop in pitch.

Before the Bigsby vibrato/tremolo bridge came out, the idea of the whammy bar hadn’t quite reached the general public.

Today, the Bigsby is probably one of the most unique whammy bars around. It has a smooth, easy-to-use feel, and is often seen on vintage, archtop guitars.

In terms of staying in tune, it’s not the best, and its pitch bend is not as dramatic as others. Basically, if you’re looking for a smoother, more subtle whammy bar, the Bigsby is one of the best.

The next advancement in the world of tremolos came from Leo Fender, the head designer, and inventor of Fender guitars. The Fender synch tremolo first appeared on the Fender Stratocaster, released in 1954.

The idea was to create a tremolo with a greater pitch range, as well as a tremolo that was capable of bending up.

When Leo Fender came up with his tremolo design, he decided to make the first ones with floating bridges before sticking with the more stable synchronized tremolo.

The reason it was named the synch or “synchronized” tremolo was because the saddle and strings were meant to move in unison like one significant movement.

This helped to eliminate string friction with the saddle, and in turn, helped the strings to move back to their original tuning and tension when the bar was laid to rest.

In terms of design, the tailpiece is made out of a singular piece of metal that sits flush in the body of the guitar, with holes in the top to allow the strings to go through.

The actual arm moves through the bridge and into the tailpiece, making it far more stable than the Bigsby.

Most modern tremolos used this design as inspiration to innovate with. It is easily one of the most influential whammy bars in history.

In 1979, Floyd D. Rose developed the very first locking tremolo, known today as the Floyd Rose Tremolo.

Many people believe that Eddie Van Halen was the man who pushed the Floyd Rose Tremolo to stardom, as he was one of the most prominent Shredder-style guitarists of the time.

Still to this day, if you are a rock or metal guitarists, a locking tremolo is a must.

The actual design of the locking tremolo shows a ton of influence from the Fender Synch tremolo, though the big difference is that the strings are locked in place for stability in tuning and intonation.

The way it works is you tune your guitar as desired, and then lock the nut and bridge with the included Allen key.

This meant that you could tune down to a drop D or C and still remain in tune while dive-bombing those low notes.

Because the Floyd Rose locking tremolo is a floating system, the pitch can be raised or lowered without much work.

This is because there is an open space behind the tremolo where the springs “float” between the tremolo and body.

If you’re looking to get those Eddie Halen-style dives and bends, look no further than a locking tremolo.

You’ve most likely seen these types of bridges before, as they raise up off the body of the guitar.

The reason so many people love this style of bridge/whammy bar is that you can manipulate the pitch up or down much easier.

The action sits much lower as well, meaning you can use it to give life to those long chord strums.

The main issue with floating bridges is that they go out of tune very easily if one string bends or breaks. This is because the strings on a floating bridge are balanced together.

However, if you’re looking for something that is a bit more natural sounding to help sweeten up your playing a bit like Stevie Ray Vaughan, a Fender Floating Bridge is your best bet.

These types of tremolos were found mostly on old Jazzmasters, as well as Jaguars, Mustangs, and a few vintage Fender Bass VI guitars as well.

Can any guitar have a whammy bar?

Technically, yes.

However, depending on what type of guitar you have, your tuning will be affected by heavy use of the whammy bar.

Cheaper guitars will go out of tune much faster than higher quality guitars.

The other downside of adding a whammy bar is the added abuse or tension on your strings will still cause them to stretch and weaken faster than a fixed bridge.

Additionally, the spring in the tremolo will become progressively weaker over time.

A good tremolo is designed to reduce this effect as much as possible, but it’s still a tradeoff to consider.

Fitting a new bar on the guitar can be a little tricky and we highly recommend you seek out and have this kind of work done by a professional.

I say this because you may need to cut a new hole, with some precision in your guitar, in order to make room for the mechanism.

How do you keep a whammy bar in place?

Bar falling into the body?

First of all, it’s worth noting that different models will have different springs, and some are stronger than others.

If this keeps happening to you and you’re using heavy strings, try using lighter strings.

A key issue in using the whammy bar occurs when strings become slack and therefore change position in the nut.

When the whammy bar is returned to neutral, friction at the nut can prevent the strings from returning to their original, natural state, and this can be a large cause of tuning issues.

Start by replacing the nut, or if that is not an option, attach a rubber band from the whammy bar to the bottom strap button. For a more permanent option, superglue is always a choice.

Conclusion

If you really want to learn how to use a whammy bar you should really just spend some time experimenting around with it first.

Try playing a variety of different chords and dropping the arm down to see how the sound reacts.

Dropping the bar at different rates will give you altered sounds so you will have to practice and get a good feel for what sound you are looking for.

Alternatively, you can also do the opposite and start with the bar dropped and raise it.

If you move the bar gently while you’re playing you can get the softer noises as well. It’s really all about having fun with manipulating sounds for a unique style.

Whammy bars are the highpoint of pitch-related effects in the realm of guitars.

Love them or hate them, there’s just nothing quite like using this handy tool to sweeten up your sound and add life to your guitar’s tone.

Understanding the different varieties of whammy bars can help you to know how to make your guitar function in your own way.

We hope that this article helped give you all the insight you’ll ever need on these fantastic devices.

As always, please feel free to let us know if you have questions or share your thoughts of how you use a whammy bar.

Keep rocking and jamming and whammy on!

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Best Dynamic Microphone for Your Studio

For the serious musician, there comes a time when you’ve decided that your next step in performance, means recording.

Creating your own studio is a great way to start the process of producing your own music and putting together quality recordings of the work you are proud of.

One of the essential items for any home studio is a collection of microphones.

While microphones may all seem the same, the fact is that there are subtle differences between the varying types of microphones.

Model

Audio-Technica PRO 35 Cardioid Microphone

Shure SM57-LC Cardioid Dynamic Microphone

Pyle-Pro PMSAX1 XLR Condenser Microphone

Pyle PDMIC78 Professional Microphone

GLS Audio Instrument Microphone ES-57

MSRP

$149.00

$99.00

$48.72

$12.51

$29.97

Our Rating

Size

9.8 x 5.1 x 2.9 inches

6.2 x 1.2 x 1.2 inches

1.8 x 7.2 x 6 inches

9.6 x 2.9 x 2.6 inches

Type

Cardioid Condenser

Uni-directional condenser

Uni-Directional Dynamic Instrument Microphone

Frequency Response

50-15,000 Hz

40 to 15,000 Hz

50Hz- 16KHz

50 Hz - 15,000 Hz

Sensitivity

-45 dB (5.6 mV) re 1V at 1 Pa

-56.0 dBV/Pa [1] (1.6 mV)

- 46dB± 3dB -

-46dB± 3dB -

-72dB at 1,000 Hz (Open Circuit Voltage)

Impedance

250 ohms

150 Ohms

250 Ohms ± 30%

300 ohms at 1,000 Hz

More Information

SEE ON AMAZON

Model

Audio-Technica PRO 35 Cardioid Microphone

MSRP

$149.00

Our Rating

Size

9.8 x 5.1 x 2.9 inches

Type

Cardioid Condenser

Frequency Response

50-15,000 Hz

Sensitivity

-45 dB (5.6 mV) re 1V at 1 Pa

Impedance

250 ohms

More Information

SEE ON AMAZON

Model

Shure SM57-LC Cardioid Dynamic Microphone

MSRP

$99.00

Our Rating

Size

6.2 x 1.2 x 1.2 inches

Type

Cardioid Condenser

Frequency Response

40 to 15,000 Hz

Sensitivity

-56.0 dBV/Pa [1] (1.6 mV)

Impedance

150 Ohms

More Information

SEE ON AMAZON

Model

Pyle-Pro PMSAX1 XLR Condenser Microphone

MSRP

$48.72

Our Rating

Size

1.8 x 7.2 x 6 inches

Type

Uni-directional condenser

Frequency Response

50Hz- 16KHz

Sensitivity

- 46dB± 3dB -

Impedance

250 Ohms ± 30%

More Information

SEE ON AMAZON

Model

Pyle PDMIC78 Professional Microphone

MSRP

$12.51

Our Rating

Size

1.8 x 7.2 x 6 inches

Type

Uni-directional condenser

Frequency Response

50Hz- 16KHz

Sensitivity

-46dB± 3dB -

Impedance

250 Ohms ± 30%

More Information

SEE ON AMAZON

Model

GLS Audio Instrument Microphone ES-57

MSRP

$29.97

Our Rating

Size

9.6 x 2.9 x 2.6 inches

Type

Uni-Directional Dynamic Instrument Microphone

Frequency Response

50 Hz - 15,000 Hz

Sensitivity

-72dB at 1,000 Hz (Open Circuit Voltage)

Impedance

300 ohms at 1,000 Hz

More Information

SEE ON AMAZON

Knowing which is best for your specific music type, recording location and instruments, will result in better quality sound, and a recording that you will be proud to share with friends, family and even strangers.

The dynamic microphone has been around for many, many years. These reliable workhorses have been found in recording studios almost from the get-go.

And while the are durable and reliable, they are no longer the only or even best option for all types of recording.

In this buying guide we’ll show you our favorite dynamic mics, break down their pros and cons, and help you understand where they provide the best performance.

We’ll follow up our reviews with some answers to frequently asked questions about dynamic microphones and microphones in general.

We hope that all of this information will help you make the best microphone purchase for your studio, allowing you to create amazing musical recordings.

Best Dynamic Microphone

Audio-Technica PRO 35 Cardioid Condenser Clip-On Instrument Microphone

Shure SM57-LC Cardioid Dynamic Microphone

Pyle-Pro PMSAX1 Instrument/Saxaphone XLR Condenser Microphone

Pyle PDMIC78 Professional Handheld Moving Coil Microphone

GLS Audio Instrument Microphone ES-57

WINNER: Audio-Technica PRO 35 Cardioid CONDESER Microphone

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A sweet and versatile addition to your mic locker. Designed for sax, toms, brass and percussion, the PRO 35 excels in high-SPL applications and is ideal for active stage performances.

Its extended frequency response captures subtle nuances of the performance.

The included UniMount clip permits accurate positioning and provides shock resistance while protecting the element.

The microphone’s cardioid polar pattern reduces pickup of sounds from the sides and rear, improving isolation of the desired sound source.

Featured specs

Designed for sax, toms, brass and percussion.

Benefits

Ideal for active stage performances, great feedback resistance, light, excellent sound quality.

Drawbacks

The attached 6ft wire breaks easily, requires phantom power.

Extra features

AT8418 UniMount microphone instrument mount; AT8538 power module; soft protective pouch.

Buying advice

Requires phantom power to operate, so if you are touring you may have some issues with soundboards.

RUNNER UP: Shure SM57-LC Cardioid Dynamic Microphone

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Few microphones have the reputation for quality and durability that the SM57 has built up since it first hit the market in 1965.

Since then, this product has been an industry benchmark to which all other studio microphones have been compared.

The Shure SM57 is a fixture in the music business. You see it everywhere. In small clubs and 100,000 seat stadiums.

This renowned mic is used by legendary performers and the latest up-and-comers.

What you may not have seen are the thousands of SM57s at work behind the scenes in professional recording studios around the world.

In fact, you’ll probably find it in more studios than any other mic. Not surprising.

The unidirectional dynamic SM57 has set the industry standard by defining the way instruments should sound. Which is why it’s used by any serious musician or recording professional.

Its warm, clean sound along with its carefully contoured presence rise make it ideal for a wide range of instrument miking applications, particularly guitar amplifiers and drums.

The SM57 features a uniform cardioid pick-up pattern that isolates the main sound source and minimizes background noise.

It can be seen anywhere, from small clubs to sports stadiums, and has been used in the studio by many of the world’s greatest musicians.

Featured specs

Dark gray, enamel-painted, die-cast steel housing with a polycarbonate grille and a stainless steel screen. Three-pin professional audio (XLR), male.

Benefits

Highly directional mic, great sound quality, value priced.

Drawbacks

Limited functions,be aware of many fakes.

Extra features

The microphone of choice for the White House.

Buying advice

Only buy from an authorized dealer

ALTERNATIVE: Pyle-Pro PMSAX1 XLR Condenser Microphone

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The PylePro PMSAX1 Instrument & Saxophone XLR Condenser Microphone is ideal for recording and sound reinforcement situations.

The PMSAX1 features a miniature, cardioid capsule well suited for capturing saxophone, brass, and woodwind instruments.

The package features a 10′ (3m) long cable, windscreen, instrument clip and phantom power adapter with 3-pin XLR connection.

Featured specs

Ideal for Trumpet, Saxophone, Silent Brass, and most wind instruments.

Benefits

Affordable, lightweight, versatile.

Drawbacks

Short cable, not as durable.

Extra features

Includes windscreen, clip and 48V adapter.

Buying advice

If you’re looking for an inexpensive clip-in for a horn player, this mic will fit the bill at an affordable price point.

BEST FOR THE MONEY: Pyle PDMIC78 Professional Microphone

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This unidirectional, dynamic handheld microphone is perfect for the serious musician recording in the studio or out on stage.

It’s perfect for voice recording due to the high quality moving coil unidirectional dynamic element.

Thanks to the durable zinc alloy metal construction and steel mesh ball shaped grill, you know your equipment is secure.

Featured specs:

Integrated low noise circuitry.

Benefits

Easy to use, rugged, value priced, long cable.

Drawbacks

Sound quality, handheld.

Extra features

Professional grade 15 ft. XLR-to-1/4 cable supplied.

Buying advice

A perfect all-purpose, versatile stage and recording microphone or backup.

RUNNER UP: GLS Audio Instrument Microphone ES-57

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The ES-57 Professional Microphones were designed to sound just like the standard in the industry, the Shure SM57. Does not require phantom power or a battery.

This microphone is perfect for instruments including drums, percussion, vocals, and more. If you like the Shure SM-57, you will LOVE these GLS Audio ES-57 mics.

Featured specs

Does not require phantom power or a battery.

Benefits

Great value, quality sound.

Drawbacks

Heavier, tons of fakes on the market.

Extra features

Comes with a mic clip.

Buying advice

As you can get three of these mics for less than the price of one of the higher priced microphones, it’s clearly a great deal.

Dynamic Studio Microphone FAQs

If you are already recording in your own studio, you know just how important it is to have the right microphone for your applications.

If you are new to recording, or if you want to upgrade your equipment, a dynamic mic is a great option for a variety of instruments and vocal situations.

For those of you that are new to recording, and aren’t sure is a dynamic mic is right for you, we’ve compiled some of the most frequently asked questions about dynamic studio microphones.

The questions we’ve addressed aren’t a complete list of information, but they will get you started down the right path, to buying the right sound equipment for your home studio.

What is a dynamic microphone used for?

A dynamic microphone is a great tool if you are planning on setting up a home recording studio, or if you are upgrading your existing recording equipment.

It is important to understand that dynamic microphones are not the right microphone for every situation, and understanding the limitations of a dynamic microphone will ensure that you get the best results in your home studio, each time you record.

A dynamic microphone generally has a limited frequency response. This response allows the microphone to handle loud and aggressive sounds, with less distortion and feedback.

Dynamic microphones are also great for recording outside of the home studio, in live performance settings.

Most users of dynamic microphones will have most success and the best sound quality when they use a dynamic microphone for recording loud guitars, drums, brass and wind instruments, and live vocals that are amplified to high volumes.

For more delicate, or quieter sounds, for example studio vocals or acoustic guitar, a dynamic microphone is not a great option.

You’ll get better results in these instances when you use a condenser microphone.

How does a dynamic microphone work?

Before we break down how a dynamic microphone works, it’s important to understand exactly what a dynamic microphone is.

A dynamic microphone uses electromagnetic currents to turn sound (from an instrument or voice) into an electrical signal. This electrical signal is then carried from the mic, through a cable, to the pre-amp or the audio interface that you’re using in your studio.

Dynamic microphones are the most simple of designs, and they don’t depend on power to work (we’ll talk about this more, shortly).

They have also been around for the longest, and are well understood and simple to manufacture.

These features all make a dynamic microphone a great affordable option for the newbie to in-home recording, or if you’re experienced, but on a budget.

There are two types of dynamic microphone, the diaphragm version and the ribbon microphone. Sometimes the ribbon microphone is considered its own thing, but it functions in a manner identical to the diaphragm version.

For the diaphragm dynamic microphone, sound travels into the microphone, and hits a plastic or polyester diaphragm or film.

When the sound hits this film, it moves. This film is attached to a small, metal coil that is strung between two magnets. When the diaphragm moves as sound hits its surface, it also causes the metal coil to move.

The movement of the coil creates a small AC current that matches the sound wave. This small electrical current is transferred to the pre-amp or audio interface, and converted back into sound.

If you were to deconstruct your dynamic microphone, you would see that it is in essence, a loud speaker in reverse. Ribbon microphones work the same way, however the plastic or polyester film is replaced with a thin ribbon of metal, usually aluminum.

While ribbon microphones may create a better sound, they are incredibly delicate and are prone to breaking. They are great in static environments, but don’t do well if you are planning on traveling with your mic.

Dynamic microphones have been around for a long time. Their simple structure, and dependence on basic science to function makes them a reliable option for musicians.

Their simplicity also means that they are relatively affordable. Many dynamic microphones, of good quality can be purchased for less than $100.

Does a dynamic microphone require power?

Another one of the great features of dynamic microphones is that they don’t require power to function.

On their own, dynamic microphones will function and use the sound from an instrument or a voice to create a small AC current.

This small AC current is converted using an audio interface unit or a pre-amp. These two items do require power, but your microphone does not.

To be clear however, just because you have a dynamic microphone, doesn’t mean that you will automatically have sound.

While the microphone will convert the sound from an instrument or voice to an electrical current, there needs to be a way to return that electrical current, back into a sound.

This is where the audio interface or pre-amp comes into play.

These two pieces of equipment use different methods to convert the current created in your dynamic microphone, and return that electrical signal to a sound.

These two pieces of equipment do require power, so if you are a traveling musician, and you want to create a louder sound, you will need to have a power source that can be connected to your audio interface, but more likely your pre-amp.

What is the difference between dynamic and condenser microphones?

The basic functions of dynamic and condenser microphones are relatively similar.

Both use diaphragms connected to metal wire to create an electrical current that can eventually be turned back into sound.

However, the way that this is achieved is slightly different between the two types of microphone. This is the first, and probably most significant way that dynamic and condenser microphones are different.

Let’s take a moment to rehash how a dynamic microphone works.

Dynamic microphones have a thin diaphragm made of plastic or polyester, sound waves from an instrument or voice, hit the diaphragm and cause the diaphragm to vibrate.

Touching the back of the diaphragm is a coil of metal. This metal coil is either wrapped around or stretched between two magnets.

When the diaphragm vibrates, it also causes the coil to vibrate. The vibration of the coil creates a small electrical current to be created by the magnets.

The current travels through the coil, out of the microphone and the audio interface or pre-amp, where it is converted from electrical signal, back to a sound.

For a dynamic microphone to really work great, it needs to be subjected to relatively loud sounds. Louder sounds, create stronger vibrations on the microphone diaphragm, and thus a stronger electrical signal.

The strong electrical current creates a vibrant and clear sounds. Dynamic microphones are best for loud instruments like brass, electric guitars and strong singers.

Dynamic microphones are also very sturdy, and don’t require power to function, so they are great options for musicians that travel.

Remember however, that just because the mic doesn’t require power to work, that doesn’t mean you don’t need a power source.

The current created by your mic will still need to be converted back to sound, so you’ll need power for an audio interface, or a pre-amp and amplifier.

Condenser microphones are a bit different in how they function, and this makes them a better option for different situations. First, let’s examine how a condenser microphone works.

The condenser microphone, like the dynamic microphone uses a diaphragm. Instead of being made of a soft material, the diaphragm in a condenser microphone is made of a thin sheet of metal, with a metal plate behind, called a backplate.

Electricity is sent to both the diaphragm and the backplate, which creates a static charge between the diaphragm and backplate.

When sound hits the diaphragm, like with the dynamic microphone, an electrical current is created. This current is then sent to the audio interface to be converted back to a sound.

From a function standpoint, the greatest difference between the condenser and dynamic microphones is power.

While the dynamic microphone doesn’t require power to create an electrical current, the condenser microphone does. Your condenser microphones will need a battery or other power source to function.

This differences translates in to a performance difference. Where the dynamic microphone is great for loud sounds, because they are more efficient at creating the vibrations necessary to create an electrical signal from the magnets.

With an electrical current already available, the condenser microphone is better for soft sounds, light vocals and indoor recording.

The last difference to consider when you are considering dynamic versus condenser microphones is price.

While you can get pricey dynamic microphones, in general, they tend to be more affordable than the condenser microphone.

This doesn’t mean they are of lower quality, but if you are just starting out recording and don’t want to spend a ton of money for the initial set up of your home studio a dynamic microphone will work fine, and save you some money.

Are dynamic microphones good for recording?

There is no reason that you can’t use a dynamic microphone for recording. However, they are most useful if you remember how they work, and what they are best used for.

While dynamic microphones are just fine in a studio setting, you will find that soft sounds don’t carry well through a dynamic microphone.

Due to the way that the dynamic microphone works, the studio setting, soft vocals and even acoustic instruments don’t create the frequency of sound waves that are best for dynamic microphones.

Remember that dynamic microphones are great for strong sounds, and work best with instruments like electric guitars, drums and brass instruments.

If you’re recording these kinds of instruments, a dynamic microphone will work great.

Dynamic microphones are also a great solution if you are recording in a live setting. Because live venues tend to be noisier, both instruments and vocals need to be louder.

The durability of the dynamic microphone make it perfect for live recordings or recording in a noisy environment.

Dynamic microphones are not great for all recording environments, however.

If you are solely working in a studio, and are using acoustic instruments or have a vocalist with a soft, but amazing voice, you should consider using a condenser microphone for your recording.

This option will do better at picking up the softer, more delicate sounds. The ability for the condenser microphone to perform well with quieter sounds is due, in part to the fact that it is powered.

The presence of an existing power source, means that the microphone can pick up a greater range of mid and low volume sounds.

Conclusion

So, there you have it.

Our recommendations for the best dynamic microphones.

We’ve shown you a range of microphones with different options and in different price ranges, so that even the budget conscious musicians can find a great microphone for their studio.

We’ve also given you some helpful information to guide you through the process of deciding which microphone type is best for you.

Dynamic microphones are a reliable, timeless option, that have proven tried and true in many recording situations, from the live venue to the professional studio.

Have questions?

Do you have a product that you love?

Did we miss something?

Let us know your thoughts in the comment section.

The post Best Dynamic Microphone for Your Studio appeared first on Sustain Punch.

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sustainpunch · 5 years ago

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Types of Guitar Pedals Explained

A pedal is an added accessory that many guitar players use.

While they are not essential for playing the electric guitar, they can help enhance the sound of your guitar makes, and make playing music a more interesting and enjoyable experience.

However, there are a number of different types of guitars on the market, and each will create a different sound experience for your guitar. But which do you choose and how do you know what sounds they will create?

If you are new to playing an electric guitar, you’ll want to invest in at least a couple of pedals, so that you can experience the full range of sounds from your guitar.

In this article we’ll talk about why you need a pedal for your electric guitar and how to use them. Then we’ll give you a brief breakdown on the most common pedals on the market.

Why do I need a guitar pedal?

As a guitar player, you may have noticed that many experienced guitarists use pedals.

If you are new to playing the guitar, you may be wondering if you need a pedal, and what they can do for your musical experience. While most new guitar players are focused only on the basics, as you grow, and your playing skills improve, you may find that you are drawn to the idea of using a pedal.

Before you decide to use a guitar pedal, it is helpful to understand what a pedal is and how it can enhance your playing experience.

Many of the most well-known guitar sounds in popular rock songs were made with the help of pedals. Pedals can help you create your own, unique sound or recreate the sounds of other guitarists that you enjoy listening to.

Many guitarists use a variety of pedals to create a range of volumes, sounds and tones. These pedals can be used in combination or individually to enhance the sounds made by your electric guitar.

Some of the other things that a pedal can do, are quite simple, like helping you control the volume of your guitar, without having to constantly adjust your amp, or change the way you play your guitar.

Other pedals can extend the octave range of your guitar, beyond what is naturally created by the instrument, or allow you to quickly move from one octave to the other, without moving your hand position.

Guitar pedals are a great tool, and they are so popular with electric guitar players that they are almost and essential accessory for guitar players of all levels.

So do you need a guitar pedal?

Yes, and no.

Your electric guitar will play just fine without a pedal. If you are new, and want to focus on learning the basic skills necessary for playing a guitar, you don’t need a pedal right away. Pedals can be added on at any time.

If you are an experienced player or if you feel that your skills have developed enough to start experimenting, a pedal is a great way to change the sound of your guitar, and create your own, unique playing sound.

If you want to get the most from your guitar, a pedal is a must. But remember, it isn’t an essential, so don’t worry if you don’t have one, or if you aren’t ready to use them yet.

How do I use a guitar pedal?

So, you’ve finally taken the leap into using a guitar pedal.

But, you aren’t quite sure how to use one. Here is some helpful advice on how to use a pedal properly, so that you can successfully create the perfect, unique guitar sound.

Step one, pick the right pedal – We’ll cover the different types of pedals later in this article, but it is important to know which pedal makes the sound you are looking for, and purchasing the right one.

Otherwise, you’ll find that you’re disappointed with the sounds, and may get frustrated with the experience.

An important reminder, if you are playing the bass guitar, make sure that when you are shopping for pedals, you may want to purchase bass specific pedals.

Some pedals will work on regular and bass guitars, others may not. Make sure that you research the pedal you want to ensure that it is right for your bass guitar, and won’t be a sad disappointment the first time you try to use it.

Additionally, some pedals come with a large pad to hit with your foot, others come with what looks like a button.

Some players like having more room to move and will pick pedals with larger pads, others people don’t mind the small button, or want more complex pedals, so they learn to work with a smaller foot space.

Plugging in Your Pedal – Once you’ve purchased your first pedal or pedals, you’ll need to make sure that you connect them correctly. Usually, we would just plug our guitar directly into the amp.

However, when you are adding a pedal to your set-up, you will need to make a few modifications in how you arrange your equipment.

When you play your electric guitar, the sound is converted to an electrical signal that is sent through your cable to the amplifier, where it is converted back to a sound.

The sound, without a pedal is the organic sound created by the strings, and is just made louder. When you add a pedal, the electrical signal is changed and a sound different than the guitar makes on it’s own is generated.

In order for this change to occur, the sound must first pass through the pedal, then through the amp. This means, that the correct way to set up your guitar with a pedal is to plug the guitar directly into the pedal, and then into the amp.

If you are using multiple pedals, you will want to string them together using a patch cable.

Powering your Pedal – Once you’ve figured out how to connect your pedals, you need to know how they will be powered. Some pedals use external power, from a regular outlet to work, others rely on internal battery power.

There are benefits and downfalls to both, and it is important to understand your needs, before you buy a pedal. If you play lots, or perform live, you probably want pedals that rely on an external power.

Batteries can be unreliable and you don’t want to lose your pedal, mid-song. And while external power is more reliable, it can be a pain to add another wire, or wires to the already extensive collection of wires you might have, if you’re using more than one pedal.

To reduce the web of wires, if you do chose external power, you may want to invest in a power hub that will allow you to plug in multiple pedals to a central location. The power hub will plug into your wall outlet, eliminating the need for power strips, and a mass of wires running along the floor.

Time to Play – Each pedal will have different operating instructions. To adjust settings or change sounds, make sure that you read the instructions closely, and then play away.

Pedals are foot operated, so you don’t need to let go of your guitar to use them. You’ll want to experiment with sounds, and timing with your pedals, so that you create the sound that you want, when you want.

Types of Guitar Pedals

If you are just starting out with your electric guitar, you might not know where to begin when it comes to buying a pedal.

We’ve created this list of popular pedals to help guide you through your purchase.

We’ll give you some helpful information about what each pedal does, the type of player that will get the most from the pedal and then some pros and cons.

These are generic overviews of pedal types, so they will give you an idea of the pedal’s function, you’ll need to research brands to determine which brand you prefer and what they offer in terms of pedal selection.

Tuner

This pedal is a must have for all electric guitar players, especially if you are planning to play live or switch frequently between guitars. This type of pedal is almost a necessity, and you won’t see many professional guitarists playing without a tuner pedal.

Tuner pedals allow you to quickly tune your instrument without unplugging it, and allowing you to tune your instrument without the sounds being heard by others. Tuner pedals mute the sound from your guitar so you can quickly and quietly check the tuning of your guitar.

This is a handy feature if you are concerned about your instrument losing pitch or if you are performing live, and plan on switching between guitars during the set.

The handy thing about tuner pedals is that you don’t have to check the tune of each string individually, the pedal will tell you exactly which string is out of tune.

Pros: Quick, easy, silent tuning. Cons: It’s hard to see a bad thing here, but if you don’t know how to tune your guitar, this one is going to stump you.

Who needs this: Any guitar player will benefit from a tuner pedal, but especially those that are playing live gigs.

Distortion

Next to the tuner pedal, this is probably the most popular pedal used by guitarists.

These pedals take the organic sound made by your guitar and change it up. In general, the distortion pedal takes the original sound made by your guitar, and adds an extra level of aggression to the sound. You’ll recognize the original sound of your guitar, but it will be more.

A distortion pedal is a great option if you want to hide the original sound from your guitar and add some length and sharpness to what you hear.

The term distortion can also refer to other pedals that you might want to include on your pedal board including the sustain and fuzz pedals. It can be a generic term to refer to any pedal that subtly alters the original sound of your guitar.

Pros: The most basic of pedals. Simple to use. Cons: Limited sound potential. You may need more than one “distortion” pedal to create a variety of sounds.

Who needs this: A perfect starter pedal for beginners. However, this is a great standard for any pedal board.

Fuzz

This is the most extreme of the distortion type pedal.

The sound that it creates can be called “noisy”. It creates a crackling or buzzy sound to your guitar. This pedal creates a sound change that is so dramatic that it will be hard to find the original sound of your guitar in the output.

Your fuzz pedal will allow you to alter the sound output using adjustment knobs. You can change up the way the pedal works, through these pedals by simply altering the settings.

Fuzz pedals can create a variety of sounds, and in general are the most diverse of the three types of distortion pedals.

Pros: A variety of sound options. Easy adjustment. Cons: Sound can be noisy. Can be complicated for beginners.

Who needs this: This is another good, basic pedal. It’s a great option for all levels and styles of playing. However, if you want to still hear the original sound of your guitar, you should steer clear of the fuzz pedal.

Delay

This is another pedal that you’ll see on almost every guitarist’s board.

Delay pedals allow you to make subtle stops between notes, creating a thicker tone and a more substantial atmospheric quality to your music. Delay pedals come in both digital and analog versions.

Both work great, and can create amazing sound for your guitar. However, digital delay pedals are a better option for the experienced guitarist. Analog delay pedals are a great way to learn and experience the impact of delay, but without the complexity.

Analog delay pedals are not nearly as responsive as digital delay pedals, but this is a great option for the beginner, who needs to have something more forgiving.

Pros: Create a great impact on your playing style. Two versions (analog and digital) for a variety of playing styles and experience levels. Cons: This is another pedal that doesn’t have many cons. However, if you’re new to playing, digital delay pedals may be too responsive. Stick with analog.

Who needs this: With better sound definition, all guitarists can benefit from a delay pedal.

Multi Effects

If you just don’t like the idea of having a bunch of different effect pedals, you may want to use a multi effect pedal.

This pedal does just what its name suggests, it gives you a variety of different sound effects, in one pedal. Multi effect pedals are a great way to try out a variety of different effects, without the investment of a bunch of pedals that you may not want in the long run.

Different brands combine different effects in their multi effect pedals, so you’ll need to do some research before you buy to determine which pedal and which effects you are most interested in.

Pros: Gives you great variety, without a ton of different pedals. Generally easy to use. Cons: Multi effect pedals may not come with all the options you want. You’ll have to research.

Who needs this: This is a great pedal for the beginner who wants to experiment but doesn’t want to invest in a bunch of pedals. Also, this is a great option for any guitarist that just wants a simple setup, with variety, minus the cords.

Chorus

The chorus pedal creates an effect that sounds like a lot of different guitar voices playing at the same time.

Kind of like a choir of singers. However, the timing of the voices is slightly off, so the sound created is more like a wobble than a succinct joining of multiple guitars.

This is a fun pedal, and creates a full, rich sound, despite the “wobbly” nature. Depending on how it is setup, the effect can be very distinct and obvious or subtle.

Pros: Creates a full, rich sound. Can be fun to experiment with. Cons: The wobble sound may not be right for everyone. Requires time to find the right sound for your style.

Who needs this: This pedal is better for experienced players that are looking to enhance the sound of their guitar. Because it take experimentation to find the right sound, a more familiar guitarist will find this pedal fun to work with. A beginner might find it cumbersome.

Compressor

A compressor pedal is often over looked by many guitarists.

Compressor pedals can make the sounds created by other pedals on your pedal board, that much better. They can sharpen clean tones, bring more life to your distortion pedal, and add some extra snap from your rhythm pedal.

This pedal is a great addition to pedal board for just about any style of playing, since they make the quality of sound, created by other pedals, just that much better.

They can be tricky to figure out, but once you do, you’re unlikely to leave home without this pedal.

Pros: Makes great sounds, sound even better. Great for a variety of playing styles. Cons: Can be challenging to learn.

Who needs this: This pedal is best for the experienced guitarist that want’s more from their pedal board. Beginners will find this pedal challenging.

Reverb

Reverb refers to the echo sound that is created by this pedal.

Many amplifiers already come with a reverb feature built in, however these can be of poor quality, and often have limited adjustment ability.

Adding a reverb pedal to your guitar will create an added amount of atmospheric depth to your music and can be a great complement to other effect pedals on your pedal board. You can easily add a reverb pedal as your only pedal, since it sounds great with a clean, unaltered sound from your guitar.

Reverb pedals often come in three different types: spring, hall and room. You can get these sound types on individual pedals or many reverb pedals come with all three options.

Pros: Can be a stand alone. Easy to use. Compliments other sounds. Cons: Not a lot of variety here.

Who needs this: Another great pedal for all styles and experience levels. This is such a popular pedal that many players start with this pedal before they move on to a distortion pedal.

Volume

This pedal is a great way to change the volume of your guitar without having to stop playing.

The idea here is that since you need two hands to play, being able to vary your volume using your foot, is a handy feature. This pedal also allow for some cool variation of volume as an effect during songs, or allows you to play quite when you’re backing a soloist, or become the soloist when you need.

This is a simple pedal, and in reality could be considered a necessity for all guitarists.

Pros: Easy to use, no added knobs or buttons. Doesn’t require power. Cons: Takes some practice to learn subtle adjustments.

Who needs this: This pedal could easily be considered a necessity for all guitarists. If you don’t want to stop playing to adjust volume, a pedal is a great solution. Simplicity here makes is perfect for all levels of experience.

Looper

This pedal doesn’t do anything to change the sound of your guitar.

It is considered a utility pedal, and isn’t really useful for the guitarist that is just playing for fun. The looper pedal takes a segment of what you’ve played and records it.

The recording is then played in repeat or “looped” through your amp. This is a handy pedal if you are the only guitar in your band, but you want to play more complex music.

Recording a melody or harmony that you can play around is a great way to add sound and depth to your music.

Pros: Allows for more than one guitar part, when there’s only one player. Cons: Not useful for hobby guitarists. Can be complicated to operate.

Who needs this: This pedal is most useful for live guitarists who are playing solo guitar. The ability to record a second, back up part gives more depth to the sound of a small, live band.

Octave & Pitch

This pedal allows you to quickly jump between the same note in a higher or lower pitch.

When you are playing your guitar, you may need to jump from high to low, quickly, and don’t want the added challenge of moving your hand up and down the fretboard.

It can also allow you to play the same note in different octaves at the same time. The resulting sound is rich and full, and can really add an extra layer of complexity to your music.

Pros: A warm sound, simplicity in changing octaves. Cons: Work best with single notes, doesn’t work well with chords.

Who needs this: This pedal is good for the experienced guitarist, or one that is playing more complicated music. A beginner will find this pedal fun, but doesn’t allow the new learner to experience and understand the skills needed for moving up and down the fretboard.

EQ pedals allow you to implement fine tuning to the bass, treble and mid range tones of your guitar.

In some respects, this can also be accomplished through your amp, but it often is not as specific, though using a pedal can give you more options and greater variability.

Generally, most EQ pedals allow you to make adjustments to seven bands of sound, and for the experienced guitarist, this can provide a more unique and individualized sound.

Pros: Broader sounds, more sound variability. Good fine tuning. Cons: More complicated, takes some understanding of what sounds you want.

Who needs this: This pedal is made for the more experienced guitarist or for the guitarist that wants to create a more robust and individualized sound.

Boost

Boost pedals increase the strength of the electrical signal created by the guitar before it reaches your preamp and amp.

These pedals don’t really change the quality of the sound your guitar makes, but rather rounds out the sound without adding feedback. A boost pedal will keep the sound of your guitar very clean.

Pros: Simple to use, doesn’t distort the original guitar sound. Cons: Doesn’t distort the guitar sound.

Who needs this: This is good pedal for all players. However, it is best for the experienced player that want to generate more sound, but not necessarily through their volume controls.

Overdrive

The overdrive pedal is a lot like your boost pedal. It gives more push to the electrical signal, but doesn’t change the sound coming from the guitar and through the amp.

Overdrive pedals provide a more natural sound than the boost pedal, so the end result is a sound that is not overpowering or sluggish.

Pros: Versatile pedal. Creates a strong, natural sound. Cons: Doesn’t distort the sound, not as strong as the boost pedal.

Who needs this: While many guitarists like the overdrive pedal over the boost or distortion pedal, this is preferred pedal of many classic rock and blues guitarists.

Harmonizer

The harmonizer or harmony pedal provides the same benefits to a guitarist as octave and looper pedals.

What was once accomplished using more than one guitarist, can now be done using just one guitar. The harmonizer adds intervals over the notes or melody that you are playing, creating a multiplayer sound from a single instrument.

Unlike octave pedals that can only raise or lower a single note over the full 12-step range, the harmonizer pedal is able to raise or lower a note over any desired interval.

In essence the harmonizer allows the guitarist to make chords from a single note, or add complexity to the chords they are already playing.

Pros: Easily creates a more diverse sound. More versatile than the octave pedal. Cons: Can be complicated to use. Not great for all ensemble types.

Who needs this: If you’re a one-man-band or if your band is small, and wants to have the sound of more than one guitar, this is a great option. Because this pedal will tend to play over the original sound of the guitar, it may be most practical for experienced guitarists, who already know what their guitar sounds like and are comfortable with playing with others.

Synthesizer

This pedal is a really cool option for a guitarist that wants to completely change the sound of their guitar.

As it suggests, the synthesizer pedal will take the sound of your guitar and change it so that it sounds more like a synthesizer or keyboard than a guitar.

There are lots of synthesizer pedal options on the market, and most of them make unique sounds. If you are looking for your guitar to make a particular sound, you may need to try a number of synthesizer pedals.

This is a fun pedal to experiment with, and wouldn’t be considered a necessary pedal to have. It’s a fun add-on for guitarists who want to experiment with their sound.

Pros: Simple to use, makes a cool sound. Lots of sound variety from brand to brand. Cons: Not easy to swap if you need a replacement.

Who needs this: There isn’t a particular style or skill level that will benefit from a synthesizer pedal. However, this is a great accessory for the player that likes to switch things up and be creative with their sounds.

Sustain

A sustain pedal and a compression pedal are almost interchangeable.

They both allow you to extend the sound being played, or “hold” a note longer. It is important to note that sustaining a sound may be accomplished without the use of a pedal, and it is good for beginners to learn how to extend the length of a note without enhancement.

Sustainers are a great option for live and studio musicians that need to note extension and volume with little to no effort.

Pros: Hold a note without losing volume. Easy to use even for beginners. Cons: May not be necessary for all guitarists. Redundant if you have a compressor pedal.

Who needs this: This isn’t a bad pedal for any style or skill level. Just make sure that you actually need or want a sustainer for your applications, otherwise it may be money spent needlessly.

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sustainpunch · 6 years ago

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iPhone Audio Interfaces | 7 Best Audio Interfaces for iPhone (2019 Review)

In this article, we’re going to be talking about the top 7 best audio interfaces for iPhone in 2019.

We wanted to create this buyers guide, as we feel that there isn’t a lot of information around for those who want to buy an iphone-compatible audio interface, for recording.

Therefore, we’ve done all of the research and condensed it all in an easy-to-read format, all in this article.

We realize that everyone’s requirements and budget will be different.

Therefore, because of this, we’ve done our best to outline the unique features of each interface, and we’ve ordered the products based on cost, whilst providing our top picks.

All of this information is nicely summarized within the table found directly below, so for you readers who just want to get the information and be on your way, there you go!

However, we advise that for those who are serious about choosing an iPhone-compatible audio interface, take a read through the article and even watch/listen to some of the video demonstrations for a full indication as to how to sounds and is operated.

With all that being said, let’s get to it, and talk about the 7 best audio interfaces for iPhone in 2019!

Top Audio Interfaces for iPhone

ImageModelCostShop

Korg plugKEY$Buy on Amazon

Line 6 Sonic Port$Buy on Amazon

MeloAudio TS Mini $Buy on Amazon

IK Multimedia iRig HD 2$Buy on Amazon

IK Multimedia iRig Pro Duo$$$Buy on Amazon

Line 6 Sonic Port VX$$$Buy on Amazon

iZotope Spire Studio$$$$$Buy on Amazon

Quick Guide – For Those in a rush!

#1 Recommendation - Fantastic Value for Money

MeloAudio TS Mini – $ – Skip to Section

#2 Recommendation - For 2 XLR inputs

IK Multimedia iRig Pro Duo – $$$ – Skip to Section

Audio Interfaces for iPhone

Korg plugKey Audio Interface – $

Features

Only for those wanting a mobile MIDI

“Made for iPod/iPhone/iPad” certification obtained from Apple

List of compatible devices & models

One of the most affordable devices

Extremely small in size

Connects via Apple Lightning cable

Technical Specifications

24 bit / 48 kHz audio sound quality

1 x MIDI Input

1 x Headphones output

2 x (L + R) 1/4″ jack outputs

microUSB Charging Port

Weight : 0.09kg

Dimensions : 2.9″ x 1.5″ x 6/0″ inches

Customer Review Rating

>>>Check out the Latest Amazon Customer Reviews of the Korg plugKey<<<

Summary

The Korg plugKey is the first audio interface to feature on our list, and whilst this unit is technically an audio inteface, it’s only useful for those who are soley looking for a MIDI interface, which can in turn be used to connect their MIDI keyboard to their iPhone or iPad for recording.

The unit itself is extremely easy to use, as you can see from the demonstration video below. It consists of an Apple Lightning cable, headphones output, L & R main output, a microUSB charging port (handy as it’s not relying on battery from you iPhone), a MIDI input and a volume knob.

All of this, alongside its affordable price-tag makes it ideal for the musician, who just wants a MIDI device

Who is this pedal for?

The Korg plugKey is definitely for the electronic musician, looking for a MIDI interface which is portable and affordable.

Therefore, for those musicians who also want XLR input functionality, this is not the unit for you, but for those who don’t require XLR functionality, and are just happy with MIDI input, this may be the ideal iPhone audio interface for you.

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Pros & Cons

Pros

Very Portable MIDI device

L & R Main Outputs

Highly Affordable

Compatible with most iPhone & iOS devices

Cons

No XLR inputs

Only for MIDI

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Line 6 Sonic Port Channel Audio Interface – $

Features

iPhone Compatible Audio Interface (Link to all compatible models)

Also Compatible with iPad, iPod, Mac & PC

Least expensive item on the list

Very small in size, making it ideal for portability

Easy to use controls

Compatible with Garageband and other CoreAudio music apps

Includes detachable lightning connector cable

Technical Specifications

2-in/2-out interface

24 bit / 48 kHz audio sound quality

1 x 1/4″ TRS input

1 x 1/8″ stereo line input

1 x 1/4″ TRS output

1 x 1/8″ stereo headphones output

Weight : 0.19kg

Dimensions : 4.2″ x 1.6″ x 1.8″ inches

Customer Review Rating

>>>Check out the Latest Amazon Customer Reviews of the Line 6 Sonic Port Channel <<<

Summary

The Line 6 Sonic Port Channel Audio Interface is the next to feature on our list of the best iPhone compatible audio interfaces, and that’s because of it’s very affordable price.

What’s noticable about the interface is the size of the unit itself, measuring to approximately 4.6 x 2.5 x 5 inches… making it extremely portable.

We’ve linked to the official Line 6 website (above), to show all of the iPhone versions that the unit is compatible with… And that’s every iPhone (from the 4S onwards) including the latest iPhone X.

The interface is bus-powered, and therefore it gains power from the connected device… So you won’t need a battery or any kind of power supply. It also comes with a detachable Lightning connector cable.

As for the interfaces inputs, it’s a 2-in/2-out unit, with 1 x 1/4″ (TRS) Guitar / Bass input and 1 x 1/8 stereo line input. It also has 1 x 1/4″ mono-stereo guitar/line level output and a 1/8″ stereo headphones output.

The unit is comtaible with main DAWs such as Garageband and other CoreAudio music apps, as well as the Line 6 Mobile Pod app.

Who is this pedal for?

This interface is for a musician on a budget, who primarily wants to record guitar/bass and other 1/4″ jack compatible instruments.

Therefore, for those vocalists, this is probably not the unit for you, and you may be more interested in the similarly priced MeloAudio TS Mini unit, which comes with an XLR input and 48v phantom power (for powering those condensor microphones).

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Pros & Cons

Pros

Highly Portable

Very Affordable

Compatible with most iPhone & iOS devices

Cons

No XLR inputs

Several reviews have described sound pops and clicks whilst recording

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MeloAudio TS Mini Audio Interface for iPhone – $

Features

Multifunctional iPhone compatible audio interface

Compatible with iPhone 5’s and later, as well as iPad, Mac, Windows and Android

Able to record guitar, bass, keyboard, vocals, etc

One of the most affordable devices

Extremely high sound quality and resolution

Supports XLR & MIDI

Built-in 48v Phantom Power and Preamp

Technical Specifications

24 bit / 192 kHz audio sound quality

48dB Preamp

1 x XLR input

1 x Line (TRS) input

1 x MIDI Input

1 x Headphones output

1 x Balanced Main Line Output

USB port for connectivity

Weight : 0.09kg

Dimensions : 2.9″ x 1.5″ x 6.0″ inches

Customer Review Rating

>>>Check out the Latest Amazon Customer Reviews of the MeloAudio TS Mini<<<

Summary

The MeloAudio Tone Shifter Mini is our first encounter with the company MeloAudio, and our first impressions of the product and the company weren’t wrong… We were extremely impressed!

So what exactly were we impressed by? Well, we’re aware that there are usually a select few companies within the audio interface industry that provide high-quality products for a reasonable price… These companies are like IK Multimedia, Korg, etc… And whether or not its because of a combination of factors, for example, their testing methods and economies of scale when producing their products, they’re simply able to provide excellent value for money, where a new entrant or smaller company would struggle.

However, the MeloAudio Tone Shifter Mini completely satisfies our expectations from a number of aspects, but more importantly from a functional aspect, and from its price-point.

The unit provides the best sound quality (192 kHz / 24-bit) of any other iPhone-compatible interface at this price point and is suitable for recording guitar, bass, keyboard, vocals, etc… due to its XLR and MIDI inputs.

Not only this, but the unit also provides 48v phantom power, for those musicians who are looking to plug in a condenser microphone, and thus require operating power.

If this all sounds good, take a look at the video demonstration below, to hear the unit in action.

Who is this pedal for?

Overall, we think that this unit is fantastic for those musicians who want a versatile audio interface for their iPhone… Capable of recording all of your instruments, whilst offering ultra-high recording quality, all in a portable unit.

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Pros & Cons

Pros

Highly Portable

Incredible Value for Money

Ultra-high Sound Quality (196 kHz / 24-bit)

Extremely Versatile with XLR & MIDI inputs

48v Phantom Power

Compatible with most iPhone & iOS devices

Cons

Would have liked to see a L & R output

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IK Multimedia iRig HD 2 – $

Features

iPhone audio interface specifically for recording Guitar & Bass

Compatible with most iPhone and iOS devices (See here for information)

High-quality audio recording

Extremely portable interface

Includes Amplitude iOS for recording on iPhone

Includes Lightning and USB cables

Technical Specifications

24 bit / 96 kHz audio sound quality

1 x 1/4″ (TRS) input for guitar, bass, and other instruments

1 x 1/4″ (TRS) output

1 x 1/8″ headphone output

USB port for connectivity

Weight : 0.051kg

Dimensions : 1.5″ x 3.9″ x 0.83″ inches

Customer Review Rating

>>Check out the Latest Amazon Customer Reviews of the IK Multimedia iRig HD 2<<<

Summary

The iRig HD2 from IK Multimedia is the second iteration of the iRig, and has received a widely acclaimed amount of positive feedback since its release.

The unit is perfect for those who are looking to record guitar, bass and other line input instruments… Although, it does not come with an XLR input, so recording vocals is out of the question… Other than if you’re only looking to get some ideas down with a dynamic mic with a line output.

The iRig HD2 is priced at a very affordable price-point, and comes with everything that you’ll need to get started recording, including the Apple Lightning cable to plug it into your iPhone, alongside USB cables. It also comes with the Amplitude iOS app, which offers a tuner, looper, drum machine, DAW and more.

Who is this pedal for?

The iRig HD2 is definitely for musicians/guitarists/bassists who are looking to get their ideas and recordings into a DAW. As we mentioned, it only comes with a 1/4″ line input (TRS), so it’s designed with the singular purpose to be used by guitarist and bassists.

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Pros & Cons

Pros

Highly Portable

Good Value for Money

Great sound quality (96kHz / 24-bit)

Compatible with most iPhone & iOS devices

Cons

No XLR input

No MIDI input

Reviews suggest that customer service is challenging to contact

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IK Multimedia iRig PRO DUO – $$

Features

iPhone audio interface specifically for recording Guitar & Bass

Compatible with most iPhone and iOS devices (See user manual for information)

High-quality audio recording

Ultra-low noise preamps

Includes Lightning and USB cables

Provides 48v Phantom Power

Technical Specifications

24 bit / 96 kHz audio sound quality

2 x combination inputs (XLR & TRS)

L & R main outputs

MIDI input/output

1 x 1/8″ headphone output

A USB port for connectivity

Weight : 0.18kg

Dimensions : 3.0″ x 1.4″ x 5.0″ inches

Customer Review Rating

>>Check out the Latest Amazon Customer Reviews of the IK Multimedia iRig Pro Duo<<<

Summary

The iRig Pro Duo is the iRig HD 2’s older brother… A little more expensive, but comes with much more functionality!

The Pro Duo is capable of recording at 96kHz, 24-bit and therefore doesn’t disappoint on the sound-quality front. However, it features 2 combination inputs (XLR & TRS) which means that you can plug in and record vocals, guitar, bass and near to any other instrument. For those musicians who are looking to plug in condenser microphones, this unit provides 48v phantom power.

It also comes with a MIDI input/output, so for those who are looking for an iOS/iPhone audio interface capable of connecting your MIDI keyboards, controllers and more to, well you’ll be delighted to hear that it even comes with the break-out cables.

As for connectivity, the unit includes all of the lightning cables and USB cables, so that you can connect it to your iPhone, iOS, Mac and PC.

Not only this, but the unit can be powered by 2 AA batteries, a DC power supply, or bus power (when connected to a laptop).

All in all, we are very impressed with IK Multimedia’s efforts when creating this interface.

However, before you make your decision to potentially purchase the iRig Pro Duo, take a look at the video demonstration below, to hear the unit in action.

Who is this pedal for?

It’s primarily for someone with a medium budget, looking for a 2-in iPhone compatible audio interface, capable of microphone, phantom power and MIDI connectivity.

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Pros & Cons

Pros

Ultra portable

Aesthetically pleasing

Awesome functionality

High Sound Quality (96 kHz / 24-bit)

Extremely Versatile with XLR, TRS & MIDI inputs

48v Phantom Power

Compatible with most iPhone & iOS devices

L & R output

Cons

Not much

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Line 6 Sonic Port VX Audio I/O and Stereo Microphone – $$$

Features

Audio interface and built-in Microphone

Compatible with iPhone (reviews have suggested up to iPhone 7 is supported)

Decent sound quality & Zero-latency monitoring

Integrates with all major DAWs

Bus-powered

Technical Specifications

24 bit / 48 kHz audio sound quality

1 x TRS input

1 x Aux input

L & R main outputs

Condenser Microphone

A USB port for connectivity

Weight : 0.54kg

Dimensions : 7.8″ x 2.2″ x 7.9″ inches

Customer Review Rating

>>>Check out the Latest Amazon Customer Reviews of the Line 6 Sonic Port VX<<<

Summary

The Line 6 Sonic Port VX is an audio interface and built-in condenser microphone, all in one physically small unit.

Now, despite this audio interface being a few years old, it still works with iPhones (up t0 the iPhone 7 as we’re aware from customer reviews/feedback), and it provides decent sound quality, operating at 24-bit / 48kHz.

Now, why have we featured this unit within this list, well because everyone has different requirements, and therefore this may suit the musician who wants a microphone built-in to their interface, for portability sake.

However, this unit does only come with a TRS (1/4″) and an Aux (1/8″) input… but as we mentioned, it comes with the condenser microphone built-in, so you can record vocals, mic up a guitar amp, etc, via this method instead of using an external microphone.

Who is this pedal for?

The Line 6 Sonic Port VX is only really for someone who’s desperate for an iPhone compatible audio interface, which includes a built-in condenser microphone.

If this is you, then take a look at the video demonstration below.

However, for those who are able to use external microphones, we would suggest taking a look at the iRig Pro Duo or MeloAudio Tone Shifter Mini… All of which provide better value for money… Not to mention are a lot younger.

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Pros & Cons

Pros

Includes built-in condenser

Zero-latency monitoring

L & R output

Cons

Older technology

May not work with new iPhones

No XLR inputs

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iZotope Spire Studio – $$$$

Features

Audio interface and built-in Microphone

Compatible with iPhone (Full details here), iOS and android

Can also record as standalone, without IOS devices or Android

Built-in Microphone

‘SoundCheck Feature’ for automatic gain adjustment

Record & Play, including track and level display

Battery-powered (4-hour battery life) and 9v powered

48v Phantom Power

Technical Specifications

24 bit / 48 kHz audio sound quality

2 x Combination (XLR & TRS) input

2 x Headphone outs

Weight : 0.72kg

Dimensions : 4.8″ x 4.4″ x 3.4″ inches

Customer Review Rating

>>>Check out the Latest Amazon Customer Reviews of the iZotope Spire Studio<<<

Summary

The iZotope Spire Studio is the last unit that we’ve featured on here, but definitely not one to miss!

It has some really cool functionality, especially because it not only integrates with the iPhone, iOS and Android devices via an app, but it can also be used completely independently, which means that you have the option to record with only the device… Great if you want to get your ideas down quickly.

It comes with a rechargeable battery, allowing for 4 hours of battery life. However, if you’d prefer to plug in the unit, you can do so via the 9v power supply port.

As for the inputs and outputs, the iZotope Spire Studio comes with 2 combination inputs (XLR & TRS), so that you can plug in microphones, guitars, and basses, etc… And it also provides 48v Phantom Power, which is important for those wanting to plug in condenser mics.

The unit also comes with an in-built microphone, so you can record your vocals and acoustic guitar on-the-go, without even needing to use an external microphone.

As for the outputs, it features 2 headphone outputs. The unit allows for wireless integration with your iPhone, iOS and Android devices, which means that you can easily export, backup and share your projects and individual tracks.

Who is this pedal for?

The iZotope Spire Studio is definitely for those musicians who want to eliminate the technical recording barriers to their creative process, and be able to get ideas down on a track in a simple method, which provides high-quality results.

If this is you, then take a look at the video demonstration below.

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Pros & Cons

Pros

Includes built-in microphone

Two combination (XLR & TRS) inputs

Optional battery power

Optional standalone usage

Easy sharing, backup options

Highly portable

Cons

A little pricey

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In Conclusion – Which iPhone-Compatible Audio Interface do we recommend?

For us, there are two major outliers, both from a functionality standpoint and from doing research into the customer reviews and feedback received by both units.

Those are, the MeloAudio TS Mini and IK Multimedia iRig PRO DUO.

If you want to know which one to purchase, of the two, the iRig Pro Duo allows for you to plug in 2 XLR inputs simultaneously, as opposed to the TS Mini’s 1 XLR input and 1 TRS input. Therefore, if you’re looking at using two microphones simultaneously, the iRig may be more suited for you.

However, if we had to choose one, we’d pick the MeloAudio TS Mini, as it’s so affordable, and hence provides incredible value-for-money.

The post iPhone Audio Interfaces | 7 Best Audio Interfaces for iPhone (2019 Review) appeared first on Sustain Punch.

source https://www.sustainpunch.com/audio-interfaces-for-iphone/

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