#pine bark soil conditioner

[james34111]

What Is Pine Bark Soil Conditioner and Why Use It

When it comes to creating a thriving garden, the quality of your soil can make all the difference. One versatile and effective product you should know about is pine bark soil conditioner. This natural material is an easy way to enhance soil structure, promote plant health, and even improve drainage. If you are new to gardening or just looking for a way to boost your soil’s performance, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know.

What Is Pine Bark Soil Conditioner:

Pine bark soil conditioner is a natural amendment made from the outer layer of pine trees. After being harvested, the bark is processed into various sizes, from coarse chips to fine particles. Its primary purpose is to improve the soil’s structure, making it ideal for gardening enthusiasts of all levels.

This product is eco-friendly and biodegradable, meaning it will break down over time and contribute organic matter to the soil. Plus, it is widely available at garden centers and home improvement stores.

Benefits of Using Pine Bark Soil Conditioner:

Why should you consider using pine bark soil conditioner in your garden? Let us explore its many advantages:

Enhances Soil Aeration: The coarse texture of pine bark helps create spaces in the soil, allowing air to circulate around plant roots.

Improves Drainage: Pine bark prevents water from pooling around roots by promoting better drainage. This makes it especially useful in clay-heavy soils, which tend to retain excess moisture.

Adds Organic Matter: As pine bark decomposes, it enriches the soil with organic material, which is critical for sustaining healthy plants. This process also fosters beneficial microorganisms that contribute to soil fertility.

Controls Weeds: When used as a mulch, pine bark soil conditioner can help suppress weeds by blocking sunlight from reaching the soil.

How to Use Pine Bark Soil Conditioner:

Using pine bark soil conditioner is straightforward, even for beginners.

Soil Amendment

To improve soil structure, mix pine bark soil conditioner into the top 6-12 inches of your soil. This works well for garden beds and potted plants.

Mulching

Spread a 2–3-inch layer of pine bark around your plants as a mulch. This not only keeps weeds at bay but also helps retain soil moisture and regulate temperature.

Composting

Add pine bark to your compost pile to increase its organic content.

Ideal Plants for Pine Bark Soil Conditioner:

Not all plants have the same soil needs, so it is worth knowing which ones benefit most from pine bark soil conditioner:

Acid-Loving Plants: Pine bark has a slightly acidic pH, making it perfect for plants like azaleas, rhododendrons, and blueberries.

Ornamental Shrubs and Trees: Enhance the soil around shrubs like hydrangeas or trees like maples.

Container Plants: Its lightweight texture makes it an excellent choice for potted plants, improving drainage and reducing soil compaction.

Tips for Choosing the Right Pine Bark Product:

There are various types of pine bark soil conditioners on the market.

Particle Size: Coarse bark is better for mulching, while fine bark is ideal for soil amendments.

Purity: Look for products that are 100% pine bark with no added fillers or chemicals.

Source: choose for sustainably harvested pine bark to ensure an eco-friendly choice.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

Even though pine bark soil conditioner is easy to use, there are a few pitfalls to watch out for:

a. Over-Application

Adding too much pine bark can lead to nitrogen depletion in the soil as the bark decomposes. To avoid this, consider supplementing with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer.

b. Poor Drainage Setup

While pine bark improves drainage, using it on its own without proper soil preparation may still result in waterlogging.

c. Ignoring pH Levels

If your plants prefer neutral or alkaline soil, pine bark’s slight acidity may not be suitable. Always test your soil before applying.

Conclusion:

Pine bark soil conditioner is a game-changer for gardeners looking to improve their soil’s health and structure. From enhancing aeration and drainage to supporting acid-loving plants, this versatile product has plenty to offer. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned green thumb, incorporating pine bark into your gardening routine can yield impressive results.

FAQs:

1. Can pine bark soil conditioner be used for all types of plants?

Not all plants thrive in slightly acidic conditions. It is best for acid-loving plants or those that benefit from improved drainage.

2. How often should I reapply pine bark mulch?

Reapply every 1-2 years as the bark breaks down and integrates into the soil.

3. Is pine bark soil conditioner pet-safe?

Yes, pine bark is generally safe for pets, but ensure it does not contain harmful additives.

4. Does pine bark attract pests?

Pine bark itself does not attract pests, but improper application may create environments where pests thrive.

5. Where can I buy pine bark soil conditioner?

You can find it at most garden centres, home improvement stores, or online retailers.

[urban-homesteading]

Blueberries are one of the easiest, most productive types of fruit you can grow at home.  Blueberries are acid-loving plants and grow best in soil that has a pH between 4.5 and 5.5. Iron becomes less available as the soil pH goes above 7, and since blueberries are iron loving plants, they then turn yellow, weaken, and die.

Growing blueberries in containers

Plant blueberry bushes individually in 15-gallon containers. Make sure the containers have several holes for drainage.

Fill the containers with a growing mix made up of half peat moss and half finely ground pine bark mulch. (You might find this in bags labeled "soil conditioner.")

Adding fertilizer will provide the best nutrients for your bushes. For each 15-gallon container, blend the peat-bark mix with eight ounces of Osmocote 16-4-8 (or any similar analysis), two ounces of dolomitic lime, and one ounce of trace elements. (Micromax or other trace element fertilizers would be suitable. Just follow label directions.) Each March, fertilize your container blueberry plants with eight ounces of a slow-release fertilizer.

Blueberry plants do best in about six hours of sun with some shade in the afternoon. Place your container blueberries on the east or southeast side of a house to get this type of light. Avoid shady areas.  More sun is better than more shade.

The peat-bark mix will dry out faster than regular potting soil, so check it frequently, and water as needed.

Blueberry bushes are quite hardy. There's no need to protect the plants during the winter.  You can expect to average around five to seven pints of fresh, sweet blueberries per plant each summer.

You aren't likely to encounter many insects or diseases, and if birds are a problem, just cover the plants with netting.

In about four years, the plants will outgrow the 15-gallon containers, and the vigor and productivity of the bushes will decline. When that occurs, they should be transplanted into 25-gallon containers. This is best done between November and February.

Growing in the ground

When growing outside, when to plant will depend on which breed you select and where you live.  This article will go into more depth on when you should plant.  Select a well-drained location that receives part-to-full sun. Decide how large an area you want to plant, spacing the bushes about five feet apart.

Remove any unwanted vegetation and turn the soil.  Remove two inches of soil in a one foot circle and lay a layer of newspaper (no colored ink) or corrugated cardboard before covering it with the soil.  Then, spread a 4-inch layer of peat moss and ground sulfur (available in bags at area nurseries) at the rate of 1/2 cup per 10 square feet, and thoroughly mix everything in. The sulfur will make the soil more acidic. Mulching the area with several inches of pine straw will keep weeds from growing as well as making the soil more acidic.

Usually, blueberry bushes are planted in fall or early winter, or, at the beginning of the year. It takes several months for sulfur to lower the pH of the soil, so plan ahead. When it comes time to plant the bushes, the pH should be about 5.5.

Fertilize the bushes with acid-loving plant food each spring, and treat with copperas (iron sulfate) if the foliage begins to develop iron deficiency symptoms.

[zasyaexports]

Coco chips are also used as a mulching agent as well as a soil conditioner. Our coir chips are used as a mulching material in gardens. It is a natural and renewable substitute for pine bark. A garden where coir is applied doesnot only look beautiful but on top of that is better for plants and trees because of its property to retain high amounts of water and to release it there where necessary.

[homerprojectorg]

What You Should Know About Pine Bark Mulch

Pine bark fines are a type of mulch made up of finely shredded pine tree bark. They are commonly used as a soil conditioner for those who want to grow plants such as azaleas, magnolias, and hollies that do well in more acidic soil. They are also great as top dressing mulch for annual flower beds, a

[homerproject]

What You Should Know About Pine Bark Mulch

Pine bark fines are a type of mulch made up of finely shredded pine tree bark. They are commonly used as a soil conditioner for those who want to grow plants such as azaleas, magnolias, and hollies that do well in more acidic soil. They are also great as top dressing mulch for annual flower beds, a

[gethealthy18-blog]

10 Best Hydrating Face Mists – 2018

New Post has been published on http://healingawerness.com/getting-healthy/getting-healthy-women/10-best-hydrating-face-mists-2018/

10 Best Hydrating Face Mists – 2018

Pratima Ati August 31, 2018

Does adding a face mist to your skin care regimen make you feel like you are complicating it even more? Ask someone with ultra dry skin, and they will change your mind in minutes. Some of us have extremely flaky skin that starts to crack like hardened water-deprived soil by afternoon. Therefore, you need more than just water-based sprays. You need vitamin and mineral-filled mists that can repair dry and dehydrated skin and rejuvenate it from within. It’s a great way to infuse your skin with hydrating and fortifying elements. If you are wondering how to go about choosing a face mist for yourself, we have got you covered. Read on!

Best Hydrating Face Mists

1. Mario Badescu Skin Care Facial Spray

Revitalize your skin with Mario Badescu Facial Spray that leaves your face with dewy and flower-like radiance. It’s an extremely hydrating and rejuvenating mix of herbal and natural extracts of aloe vera, gardenia, rose, bladderwrack, and thyme – all of which soothe your skin and re-energize it. You can mix this mist in your foundation or CC cream, or spritz it on just before you apply makeup.

Pros

Long-lasting effect even when you apply other makeup products over it

Reduces redness caused by acne and T-zone oil secretion

Gives your face a natural glow.

Cons

None

Rating

4.9

Buy it here!

2. Zelens Z Balance Prebiotic & Probiotic Facial Mist

The Zelens Z Balance Facial Mist benefits you in more ways than one because it is loaded with all the things your skin needs to refresh itself throughout the day. It is supercharged with prebiotics that add radiance to your skin and make it look smooth. It also contains probiotics that improve your skin’s natural immunity, plant humectants that help retain moisture, and green shiso leaves that protect against environmental damage. This facial mist balances and strengthens your skin’s moisture barrier effectively.

Pros

Soap- and oil-free

Dermatologist tested

Suitable for all skin types

Cons

Rating

4.9

Buy it here!

3. La Roche Posay Thermal Spring Water

La Roche Posay Thermal Spring Water is the perfect companion to take while traveling. It is pure thermal water that is rich in selenium, a powerful antioxidant. It has a soothing and cooling effect on your skin. It also works as a toner, so you can spray it on right after you wash your face and then do your makeup.

Pros

Doubles as a toner

Suitable for sensitive skin

Paraben-free

Oil-free

Cons

Very little quantity for the price

Rating

4.9

Buy it here!

4. Mad Hippie Hydrating Nutrient Mist

Mad Hippie Hydrating Nutrient Mist is a potent mix of hydrating minerals and antioxidants that work their magic to keep your skin supple every day. It is a blend of vitamin C, milk thistle (which contains amino acids), green tea, pine bark (which helps with discoloration), and pomegranate seed extract (which is rich in ellagic acid). Your skin deserves excellent care like this.

Pros

Just one squirt enough per usage

Replaces your regular lotions and creams

Pleasant fragrance

Cons

The nozzle is a little

cumbersome

Rating

4.9

Buy it here!

5. Supergoop Defense Refresh Setting Mist

Supergoop Defense Refresh Setting Mist is a best-seller. It is more than just a hydrating mist. It protects your skin from UV rays and also acts as a makeup setting spray. It is infused with antioxidants contains rosemary and peppermint essential oils. These oils also cool your skin down and prevent your pores from getting clogged. It is practically weightless and can be reapplied throughout the day over your makeup.

Pros

Contains SPF

Can be applied over makeup

Lightweight

Free of synthetics or parabens

Cons

Spray pump gets clogged

Rating

4.8

Buy it here!

6. Avene Thermal Spring Water

Avene Thermal Spring Water is a blend of the purest rainwater and mineral salts from the mountains of France. It is dermatologist-tested. It is a gentle facial mist that reduces irritation and hydrates your skin.

Pros

Reduces irritation and redness

Leaves your skin feeling supple and soft

Easily absorbed by the skin

Cons

Rating

4.8

Buy it here!

7. Vichy Mineralizing Thermal Water

Vichy Mineralizing Thermal Water calms your skin down almost instantly. It is a natural solution that improves the overall health and quality of your skin. It is a unique combination of potent minerals like potassium, iron, and manganese because the thermal water is collected from 4000 meters under the Earth’s surface. So, apart from soothing your skin, it also protects your skin from aggressors, free radicals, and pollution.

Pros

Hypoallergenic

100% natural ingredients

Fragrance- and chemical-free

Suitable for all skin types

Cons

Does not work as a makeup setting spray

Does not have SPF

Rating

4.8

Buy it here!

8. Ren Flash Defense Anti-Pollution Mist

Ren Flash Defense Anti-Pollution Mist protects your skin from the stress caused by your lifestyle and urban living that invariably expose you to harmful dust, pollution, and smoke. It creates a protective biosaccharide barrier over your skin’s surface, which keeps your skin healthy and fatigue-free. Just spritz it over your makeup or moisturizer, and you’re good to go!

Pros

Hypoallergenic

Paraben- and sulfate-free

Protect your skin from pollutants and UV rays

Cons

Mild results

Unpleasant fragrance

Rating

4.7

Buy it here!

9. Caudalie Grape Water

Caudalie Grape Water is a 100% organic formula that it suits all skin types, including the most sensitive skin. It is a direct extract of Bordeaux grapes that not only hydrate your skin but also reduce its sensitivity.

Pros

Extremely hydrating

Combats dullness and uneven skin texture

100% organic

Cons

None

Rating

4.7

Buy it here!

10. Allies Of Skin Molecular Savior Face Mist

This product by Allies Of Skin is an alcohol-free Molecular Saviour™ formula that is a one-of-its-kind product in the market right now. It tones your skin and acts as a skin conditioner to protect it from the effects of the environment. Aloe and rose water are locked together with an anti-evaporation molecule that compels this solution to cling to your skin instead of vanishing into thin air. Thus, it balances the pH level of your skin and clears pores.

Pros

Alcohol-free

Antibacterial

Cons

Rating

4.6

Buy it here!

A face mist re-energizes your skin by minimizing the damage caused by dust and pollution and reducing redness. It a must-have product that you need to carry in your handbag. Do you use facial mists? What do you like about them? Do you have a routine that you follow? Any suggestions? Tell us all this and more by dropping a message in the comments section below.

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Latest posts by Pratima Ati (see all)

Pratima Ati

After working in Marketing and Business Development for a few years, Pratima Ati jumped ship to pursue two things she loved – fashion and writing. She’s now a full-time Fashion & Lifestyle writer and has never looked back ever since. She sleeps early, reads often, and when she can’t, she finally gives a closure to all the characters living in her drafts. Sometimes, they pass off as poetry too! That, and her training in Indian classical music and playing (learning) the veena keep her sane, civil, and bearable.

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Source: https://www.stylecraze.com/articles/best-face-mists/

[thecrazyotic-blog]

Fall Gardening Checklist

Before we wrap up this Fall Gardening Checklist series we wanted to give you a few more valuable and important tips. These are things you should also be preparing to take care of during the autumn and before the cold arrives.

VEGETABLE STORAGE Beets, carrots, parsnips, potatoes (late) must be stored in a cool place. All except the potatoes could stay outdoors for a longer time by ridging soil over the rows in the garden. Other means of storage are pits dug in the ground and the vegetables covered with boards and hay. For small lots bushel baskets, or boxes submerged in the ground will do. Celery can be kept by covering with soil in the row. Cabbage is best dug and put in a cold cellar or pit.

Eggplant, peppers, and pumpkins must be stored where the temperature is mild. Tomatoes picked before frost and individually wrapped in newspaper will ripen in 2 weeks.

Radishes, lettuce, endive and other greens can be carried along in the garden for some time by covering each evening with cardboard, burlap, or the more enduring plastic sheeting.

COMPOST AND HUMUS All but diseased and insect-infested material can be composted. Burn all questionable material.

Leaves can be put in a separate heap if there is space, or all materials mixed in one pile.

Begin with a bottom layer of coarse leaves, corn stalks, or dried stems. Next spread layer of the mixed materials 6 inches deep. Sprinkle a pound or more of any fertilizer, compost activator, or dried cow or chicken manure over 4×5 foot surface, then a thin layer of soil. Wet thoroughly.

Repeat layer by layer to build the pile. A 5 foot height is enough. The pile can be as long as desired. Keep the width to 6 feet. Mulching attachments for power tools are handy for fall work.

The humus supply in the soil is increased too, by sowing rye, or rye grass seed on areas left vacant by removal of crops in the garden. Three pounds per 1,000 square feet is ample. Rake the seed in, as in lawn making. Rolling is not necessary.

SOIL IMPROVEMENT Before hard frost threatens, dig the soil and leave rough over winter. Where manure or compost is available, spread and dig in. Stiff soil is especially benefited. If soil needs lime, this is applied as ground, or pulverized limestone, 3 pounds per 100 square feet. It is merely spread over the surface after digging.

Soil on sloping ground must be covered to prevent washing. A cover crop of rye, a layer of compost, leaves, hay or the like will prevent erosion. Fall is a good time to dig in soil conditioners.

PROTECTION In winter protection of outdoor hardy and semi-hardy plants, no covering is applied until all growth has ceased. Growth is ended by frost which opens tissue and prepares the plants for winter. Roses can be covered after several frosts, by mounding the soil up and around the base of the stems. Not all northern rose growers agree on covering, but I prefer it. The pink spirea (caryopteris), shrubs like the crape myrtle of the South, and those of similar tenderness are also covered.

The stems are tied loosely together with soft twine or burlap strips and wrapped with burlap. Where winters are severe, hay is used inside first, then burlap, or chicken wire surrounding the shrub. Fill with dry leaves and top with a piece of canvas. An inverted bushel basket stuffed with leaves is the best for low plants.

Climbing roses are protected where the winter temperatures go below zero. The stems are taken down from their sup-ports, tied together, laid on the ground and covered with 3 inches of soil.

It’s a practice in extremely cold sections to loosen the roots on one side and tip the whole plant over into a trench. No bending can be done when the stems are frozen. They will snap off. So do it early. Pansies and English daisies are covered with marsh (salt) hay.

EVERGREENS These are protected in a different way and for a different reason. Exposed to winds, the leaves dry out, especially if the roots are in frozen soil. Protection consists in covering the root area with a mulch of leaves, and using a wind barrier of some sort. Burlap attached to stakes, branches of pines pushed into the ground, or smaller ones tied to several stems of the plants serve to break the wind.

PERENNIAL PROTECTION Last to be covered are strawberries, hardy perennials, and rock garden plants. This is best done when ground is frozen. Covered while still soft, the plants will rot.

Soft crowned plants: delphinium, columbine, liatris, anchusa, are best covered with a cone of coal ashes, or 3 parts of soil mixed with one part of sand.

Others are covered with a light layer of marsh hay held in place with light twiggy branches. Provision must be made for water to drain off and not collect around the plants in prolonged wet weather.

Beds of spring flowering bulbs must also wait until they are thoroughly frozen before being covered else mice may harbor there for the winter.

SNOW PROTECTION Bushy evergreens are, in regions of heavy snows, prone to injury when deep snow collects in the interior splitting them apart. Strips of burlap wound spirally around will give some protection. Tying the stems to each other in the interior is still better.

TREE PROTECTION The stems of fruit trees, especially those newly planted, are in danger of having the bark peeled off by rabbits and mice during winter. Surround these with a band of close meshed chicken wire 2 feet high. Newly planted shade and flowering tree stems are wrapped with burlap strips, or the special craft paper used by tree men. This is protection against frost injury and the action of freezing winds.

Be prepared and ready to go with your fall flower gardening protection plans. You will be thankful you did come next spring!

How To Protect Plants From Frost & Bugs

More Fall Flower Garden Protection Tips

Mulching: Spread Organic Materials In Fall To Protect Plants

Mulching: Spread Organic Materials In Fall To Protect Plants, Improve Soil. Mulching is the simplest and most advantageous thing you can do for your garden. And it needn’t be pricey — whatever of the prizewinning mulching materials. Leaves: Collect leaves in the fall. Chop with a lawnmower or shredder.

How to Protect Plants in the Winter: Tips for Protecting Plants

Wrapping Plants in Cloth Will Also Help Protect Them During the Winter. Using old blankets, burlap sacks, sheets, towels or other thick fabric will help to protect tender plants from frosts and high winds.

How To Protect Perennials And Roses For Winter

But the sun will get lower on the horizon and the leaves will turn red and fall from the trees. Winteris inevitable. It’s time to plan and prepare before that first frost. Protect. Gardens need protection in the winter. In the north, the snow cover acts as a thermal blanket. But it isn’t the cold that kills the plant or shrub. It’s the drying winds and the freezing and thawing.

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[isaayle01-blog]

Isaayle

Trees that Best Benefit the Environment

There are many benefits that trees provide the environment. First of all, trees combat climate change. Excess carbon dioxide (CO2) is building up in our atmosphere and contributing to climate change. Trees absorb CO2, removing and storing the carbon while releasing oxygen back into the air. In one year, an acre of mature trees absorbs the amount of CO2 produced when you drive your car 26,000 miles.

There are also several other benefits of having trees, as far as the environment’s concerned, including the following:

Trees Clean the Air: Trees absorb all kinds of odors and pollutant gases, and filter particulates out of the air by trapping them on their leaves and bark.

Trees Provide Oxygen: We all know that without oxygen, none of us would be here. In one year, an acre of mature trees can provide enough oxygen for 18 people.

Trees Cool Cities: As average temperatures around the globe continue to rise, trees provide shade, which helps counter the rising heat’s effects. Trees can cool as much as 10 degrees Fahrenheit.

Trees Save Water: Shade from trees helps here as well, as the shade slows water evaporation from thirsty lawns. Most newly-planted trees need only 15 gallons of water per week. As they transpire, they increase atmospheric moisture.

Trees Conserve Energy: If your home is engulfed in shade from an array of trees, you’re much more likely to pop open a window or two on a warm day than turn on air conditioners. This helps you save money if you limit your usage. Also, by reducing energy demand, we reduce carbon dioxide and other pollution emissions from power plants.

Trees are still the best “technology” to capture CO2, which is essential in the ongoing global environmental crisis. You can contribute to the solution, but it’s important to choose the right trees to plant. A tree absorbs carbon during photosynthesis and stores it in the wood for the life of the tree. The massive trunk of an ancient oak or redwood represents many tons of sequestered carbon.

Here are some factors to consider when picking your trees.

Fast-growing trees store the most carbon during their first decade, often a tree’s most productive period.

Long-lived trees can keep carbon stored for generations without releasing it in decomposition.

Large leaves and wide crowns enable maximum photosynthesis.

Native species will thrive in your soil and best support local wildlife.

Low-maintenance, disease-resistant species will do better without greenhouse-gas-producing fertilizers and equipment.

Here are some types of trees to consider, although your choice may vary by region.

Yellow Poplar (or Tulip Tree), the top carbon-storer in one New York City study, works hard under rough conditions.

Silver Maple can trap nearly 25,000 pounds of CO2 in a 55 year period, according to the Center for Urban Forests.

Oak (White Oak, Willow Oak, Laurel Oak and Scarlet Oak) has adapted to thrive in many climates, providing food and shelter to wildlife.

Horse Chestnut grows well in cities; its domed top provides exceptional shade, which offers passive cooling benefits.

Red Mulberry provides the added benefit of delicious seasonal fruit.

London Plane is an excellent choice for urban planning, very tolerant of pollution and root-cramping, resistant to cold and disease.

American Sweetgum has brilliant fall colors, is large and long-lived. In the north, consider American Linden instead.

Dogwood offers lovely seasonal flowers; this and other particularly dense trees like Black Walnut can store more carbon in a smaller tree.

Blue Spruce, widely introduced as an ornamental, thrives in most northern regions; in the Pacific Northwest, Douglas Fir also excels.

Pines (White, Red, Ponderosa and Hispaniola) are the most carbon-effective conifer.

If you’re wondering where trees are most needed, the answer is everywhere, but here’s a detailed breakdown as to why trees benefit each specific environment.

Cities and suburbs

In urban “heat islands”, vast stretches of asphalt magnify and reflect the sun, sending CO2 directly skyward and creating “dead zones” below. A tree forms an oasis of shade, provides wildlife habitat, and improves air quality. Adding street trees can actually lower summer temperatures through evaporative cooling.

Clear cuts

While sustainable logging may be necessary to support human systems, large-scale clear cuts represent an environmental disaster. The forest floor sequesters enormous amounts of carbon, accumulated over centuries by natural decay. Soil disruption and erosion caused by poor logging practices cause tremendous carbon release. Prompt replanting can help.

Tropical regions

Carbon-offset studies have shown that the perpetual growing season and fertile soil of equatorial regions enables trees to multiply their carbon storage capacity. Forests in some of these regions have been devastated by industrial development and are in critical need of healing.

Your backyard or neighborhood

Build a grassroots movement by raising awareness of the urgency of carbon storage. Small local efforts create positive ripples and, yes, actual carbon benefits. You can spread the word by involving some neighborhood kids, a group of coworkers, or friends. They will walk away with practical know-how and pass it on.

The benefits of planting trees also help in the fight against Global Warming, according to ClimateRally.org. Here are some ways trees combat it.

Planting trees for the environment is good as they are renewable, biodegradable and recyclable.

If we plant 20 million trees, the earth will get 260 million more tons of oxygen.

One acre of trees can remove up to 2.6 tons of carbon dioxide each year.

During photosynthesis, trees and other plants absorb carbon dioxide and give off oxygen.

Trees keep air and water pollution in check.

Trees are the natural habitat of the animals and birds, as well as many endangered species.

Planting trees mean more wood and paper products which can be easily recycled.

A newly planted whole forest can change the tonnes of atmospheric carbon into the wood and other fibrous tissue, thus reducing global warming.

The bottom line? Trees are essential for the survival of our planet, and it’s especially important to keep them thriving for years to come.

[kalwermaxwer-blog]

stump grinding southside brisbane

The climate tends to really have a hot and humid summer with predominant storms and rainfall in later summer and early autumn. Winter tends to be cool with the casual zero degrees Celsius occurring in the'western suburbs'and nearby Ipswich city. Rainfall in winter is minimal leading to the fire season related to winter. Water conservation is essential through the winter, spring and early summer season for best gardening results. Brisbane is surrounded by the cooler highland zones of Toowoomba, Mount Tamborine, Maleny and the Great Dividing Range. These zones are far more warm-temperate, with the capacity to grow subtropical species.  tree lopping eight mile plains 

Lifestyle

Brisbane might be one of the very amenable climates of any city in the world. It's more sunny days than Florida and is warmer compared to Bahamas. Mild winters and hot summers make indoors and outdoors flow into each other and the folks of Brisbane spend much of the leisure time in their gardens. The climate is just a haven for lush tropical gardens with phenomenal plant growth and landscaping possibilities. A big element of design is to create airflow and shade to cool the living spaces.

Architecture

Home types:

· The Queenslander - a normal wooden home , with timber walls and floors, tin roof and surrounded by verandahs. Built-in this style until mid-1930s, Queenslanders are designed on stumps to increase airflow round the house. They define the type of older suburbs and lend themselves to elaborate, large gardens that you appear on to from the verandahs.

· Worker's cottage - very similar to a Queenslander home but smaller, with usually just a verandah at the front. Less ornate finishes and usually on an inferior parcel of land compared to Queenslander they nevertheless have great capacity for landscaping

· Brick home - common in Brisbane suburbs established in the 1970s. Common features really are a tiled roof, garage, aluminium windows, fly screens and security. Swimming pools are common. Gardens are generally smaller and natural soils poorer. An alternative method of gardens is necessary to include height without clutter and well placed palms, cycads, epiphytes and flowering bushes can make an enormous difference.  tree lopping ormeau 

Structures

Outdoor living incorporates decks, pools, ponds, waterfalls, pergolas and a variety of shade structures and outdoor furniture and always the BBQ. Shade is vital to guard from the baking summer sun and high humidity. Specifically built huts or pavilions are suitable for entertainment and relaxation. Some simple structures might even double as a bedroom on hot summer nights, with the addition of mosquito netting. Other possibilities include wooden bridges, timber seating, fountains, bamboo screens, and paved courtyards.

Plants

The subtropical climate allows for an enormous plant choice in the garden, from temperate to tropical, arid to rainforest. Lush, leafy species are easy to cultivate if water can be obtained some suggestions being: Aroids, heliconias, frangipanis, gingers, palms, philodendrons, cordylines, epiphytes including staghorn ferns, orchids, and tillandsias and spectacular flowering tree species such as for instance jacaranda and poinsiana. However, if water is just a major concern then Australian natives are the very best choice.

Soils

Brisbane has 3 main forms of soils:

· Loam consisting of fine clay, sand and organic matter. They're the predominant alluvial soils of the Brisbane River floodplain and other creeks

· Heavy clays. They're present in elevated areas and as landfill in new homes. They could require lots of conditioning with gypsum to break them up and aerate them.

· Gravely, granitic soils with good drainage but poor in nutrients.

Most soils around Brisbane are lower in boron and magnesium and most Australian soils are lower in potash and zinc.The easiest and safest method to supplement every one of these nutrients and to stimulate healthy, living soil at the same time is by using seaweed fertiliser. Fish & Kelp is advantageous since the calcium in the fish helps plants to absorb phosphorous in seaweed more effectively.

Water

Increasingly Brisbane is experiencing water shortages and restrictions and until you have access to tank water or bore water for the garden don't plant thirsty plants that rely on irrigation or sprinklers. There are many methods to water capture including rainwater tanks which come in an enormous selection of sizes and shapes to fit in most areas in a backyard. Water can be captured from the overflow of air conditioners, hotwater tanks, and grey water systems attached to your shower or washing machine.

Water conservation is aided by heavily mulching gardens. Because of this a variety of mulches are available from T-tree, pine bark, hardwood chips and recycled green waste available from tree loppers. T-tree is one of the best looking mulches, somewhat more costly though. A good combination is cheaper green waste with a high layer of T-tree. Gravel makes an ideal mulch for arid plants and close to buildings. It needs less maintenance, holds heat and avoids the issue of mold and fungus on painted walls..

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How Pine Bark Soil Conditioner Enhances Your Garden's Health

Using pine bark soil conditioner can be a game-changer for gardeners looking to improve soil quality and plant health. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned gardener, this natural product offers benefits that will take your garden to the next level. Let us explore what pine bark soil conditioner is, and how it helps plants thrive. What is Pine Bark Soil Conditioner: Pine bark soil conditioner is made from finely ground pine bark that is partially composted. It is added to soil to improve its texture and fertility. Unlike mulch, which sits on top of the soil, soil conditioners are worked into the ground, enhancing its structure and nutrient content. It is especially useful for gardeners dealing with compact or sandy soil. Improves Soil Drainage: One of the key advantages of pine bark soil conditioner is its ability to improve soil drainage. This conditioner breaks up heavy, compacted soil, allowing water to flow more easily through it. Plants growing in well-drained soil are less likely to suffer from root rot, which occurs when water sits around the roots for too long. Boosts Aeration for Root Growth: Pine bark soil conditioner also enhances aeration. This means it creates small pockets of air within the soil, making it easier for roots to spread out and grow. The increased airflow is essential for healthy root development and ensures that plants get the oxygen they need. Adds Organic Matter to the Soil: As the pine bark breaks down over time, it releases organic matter into the soil. Organic matter is vital for enriching the soil, providing plants with essential nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorus. This slow decomposition process means that your soil will benefit from the nutrients over a long period, giving plants sustained nourishment. Perfect for Acid-Loving Plants: Pine bark soil conditioner is slightly acidic, making it an excellent choice for plants like azaleas, blueberries, and rhododendrons, which thrive in acidic conditions. By using pine bark soil conditioner, you are naturally creating a more suitable environment for these species. Conclusion: Incorporating pine bark soil conditioner into your garden routine can significantly improve soil health, drainage, and nutrient levels. Whether you are growing flowers or vegetables, your plants will benefit from healthier roots, better drainage, and richer soil. Consider adding this natural product to your gardening toolkit for long-lasting results.

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Pine Bark Soil Conditioner: An Essential Addition to Your Garden

If you are looking for a natural way to boost your garden's health, pine bark soil conditioner is a fantastic option. This product, derived from decomposed pine bark, is known for improving soil structure and enhancing plant growth. By using it regularly, you can ensure your plants thrive in well-aerated soil that promotes proper drainage. Pine bark soil conditioner helps balance moisture levels in the soil. It absorbs excess water while also allowing for good air circulation, which is crucial for root health. Unlike other soil amendments, this conditioner breaks down slowly, giving long-lasting benefits to your garden. Incorporating pine bark soil conditioner into your gardening routine is simple. Start by spreading a thin layer over the soil surface, then gently mix it in. This process will help your plants access vital nutrients more effectively. Many gardeners use this product to enrich vegetable gardens, flower beds, and even lawns. While adding organic material to your garden, it is essential to pair it with other sustainable practices. Regular mulching, composting, and proper watering all complement the benefits of pine bark soil conditioner. These practices ensure your plants get the best environment possible for healthy growth. Though primarily a gardening tool, one might wonder how this connects to completely unrelated topics like ice cream push carts and ice cream vending carts. It turns out that sustainability is a rising trend in many industries, including food services. Just like pine bark soil conditioner supports healthier gardens, eco-friendly ice cream vending carts and ice cream push carts help reduce carbon footprints by offering energy-efficient options. Similarly, adopting sustainable practices in gardening is a small but impactful step toward a greener future. Pine bark soil conditioner may not have an obvious connection to the world of ice cream vending, but the same mindset of eco-conscious choices is at play. Whether you are choosing a product for your garden or your business, sustainability matters. Just as you would select an energy-efficient ice cream vending cart, you should choose soil conditioners that promote long-term garden health. To wrap it up, incorporating pine bark soil conditioner into your garden brings numerous benefits, from improving soil texture to helping plants grow stronger. Whether you are planting vegetables, flowers, or simply enjoying the fruits of your labour, adding this soil amendment will keep your garden thriving for seasons to come. Likewise, choosing sustainable options, whether for gardening or selecting an ice cream push cart, ensures a brighter, healthier future for everyone.

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Composting

Compost is the single most important supplement you can give your garden. It’s a simple way to add nutrient-rich humus to your lawn or garden that fuels plant growth and restores vitality to depleted soil. It’s also free, easy to make, and good for the environment. But composting also has other benefits.

Composting Benefits

Soil Conditioner

With compost, you are creating rich humus for your lawn and garden. This adds nutrients to your plants and helps retain soil moisture. They don’t call it “black gold” for nothing.

You're reading: Composting

Compost is the single most important supplement you can give your garden.

Recycles Kitchen and Yard Waste

Composting can divert as much as 30% of household waste away from the garbage can. That’s important because when organic matter hits the landfill, it lacks the air it needs to decompose quickly. Instead, it creates harmful methane gas as it breaks down, increasing the rate of global warming and climate change.

Introduces Beneficial Organisms to the Soil

Microscopic organisms in compost help aerate the soil, break down organic materials for plant use, and ward off plant disease.

Good for the Environment

Composting offers a natural alternative to chemical fertilizers when applied to lawns and garden beds.

Reduces Landfill Waste

Most landfills in North America are quickly filling up; many have already closed down. One-third of landfill waste is made up of compostable materials. Diverting this waste from the landfill means that our landfills will last longer (and so will our wild spaces).

Related: Best Compost Bins and Tumblers Reviewed

What to Compost

What you can put into your compost will depend somewhat on what kind of composter you have, but some general rules do apply. All compostable materials are either carbon or nitrogen-based, to varying degrees. The secret to a healthy compost pile is to maintain a working balance between these two elements.

The Secret to a Healthy Compost Pile: Carbon/Nitrogen Ratio

Carbon Carbon-rich matter (like branches, stems, dried leaves, peels, bits of wood, bark dust or sawdust pellets, shredded brown paper bags, corn stalks, coffee filters, coffee grounds, conifer needles, egg shells, straw, peat moss, wood ash) gives compost its light, fluffy body.

A healthy compost pile should have much more carbon than nitrogen.

Nitrogen Nitrogen or protein-rich matter (manures, food scraps, green lawn clippings, kitchen waste, and green leaves) provides raw materials for making enzymes.

A healthy compost pile should have much more carbon than nitrogen. A simple rule of thumb is to use one-third green and two-thirds brown materials. The bulkiness of the brown materials allows oxygen to penetrate and nourish the organisms that reside there. Too much nitrogen makes for a dense, smelly, slowly decomposing anaerobic mass. Good composting hygiene means covering fresh nitrogen-rich material, which can release odors if exposed to open air, with carbon-rich material, which often exudes a fresh, wonderful smell. If in doubt, add more carbon!

This table details how the items in your compost are likely to be classified:

Material Carbon/Nitrogen Information Wood chips / pellets Carbon High carbon levels; use sparingly Wood ash Carbon Only use ash from clean materials; sprinkle lightly Tea leaves Nitrogen Loose or in bags Table Scraps Nitrogen Add with dry carbon items Straw or hay Carbon Straw is best; hay (with seeds) is less ideal Shrub prunings Carbon Woody prunings are slow to break down Shredded paper Carbon Avoid using glossy paper and colored inks Seaweed and kelp Nitrogen Apply in thin layers; good source for trace minerals Sawdust pellets Carbon High carbon levels; add in layers to avoid clumping Pine needles Carbon Acidic; use in moderate amounts Newspaper Carbon Avoid using glossy paper and colored inks Leaves Carbon Leaves break down faster when shredded Lawn & garden weeds Nitrogen Only use weeds which have not gone to seed Green comfrey leaves Nitrogen Excellent compost ‘activator’ Grass clippings Nitrogen Add in thin layers so they don’t mat into clumps Garden plants — Use disease-free plants only Fruit and vegetable scraps Nitrogen Add with dry carbon items Flowers, cuttings Nitrogen Chop up any long woody stems Eggshells Neutral Best when crushed Dryer lint Carbon Best if from natural fibers Corn cobs, stalks Carbon Slow to decompose; best if chopped up Coffee grounds Nitrogen Filters may also be included Chicken manure Nitrogen Excellent compost ‘activator’ Cardboard Carbon Shred material to avoid matting

Is There Anything I Definitely Shouldn’t Put in My Compost?

Do not compost meat, bones, or fish scraps (they will attract pests) unless you are using a composter designed specifically for this purpose. The Green Cone Solar Waste Digester is one good example.

Avoid composting perennial weeds or diseased plants, since you might spread weed seeds or diseases when spreading your compost.

Don’t include pet manures in compost that will be used on food crops.

Banana peels, peach peels, and orange rinds may contain pesticide residues and should be kept out of the compost.

Black walnut leaves should not be composted.

Sawdust may be added to the compost, but should be mixed or scattered thinly to avoid clumping. Be sure sawdust is clean, with no machine oil or chain oil residues from cutting equipment.

Related: The Easiest Way to Start Composting Now

Read more: 10 Great Plants for Shade Gardening | Gardener’s Supply

TIP: Storing Compost in the Kitchen

To store kitchen waste until you’re ready to transfer it to your composter, keep a container with a lid and a handle under the sink. A stainless steel compost pail with an carbon filter or a ceramic model will cut down on odors. If you don’t mind occasional smells, use an old ice-cream pail. Chop up any large chunks before you toss them in.

A Word About Yard Waste

With yard and garden wastes, different composting materials will decompose at different rates, but they will all break down eventually. If you want to speed up the composting process, chop the larger material into smaller pieces. Leaves and grass clippings are also excellent for compost but should be sprinkled into the bin with other materials, or dug in to the center of the pile and mixed. Avoid putting them on in thick layers – they will mat together and reduce aeration, which slows the composting process.

Adding garden soil to your compost will help to mask any odors, and microorganisms in the soil will accelerate the composting process.

Composting Leaves

If you have too many leaves to incorporate into the compost bin, you can simply compost the pile of leaves by itself. Locate the pile where drainage is adequate; a shaded area will help keep the pile from drying out.

The leaf pile should be at least 4′ in diameter and 3′ in height. Include a layer of dirt between each foot of leaves. The pile should be damp enough that when a sample taken from the interior is squeezed by hand, a few drops of moisture will appear. The pile should not be packed too tightly.

The pile will compost in 4 – 6 months, with the material being dark and crumbly. Leaf compost is best used as an organic soil amendment and conditioner; it is not normally used as a fertilizer because it is low in nutrients. For more information, read Use Autumn Leaves to Keep Your Compost Working Through the Winter

TIP: Leaf-Mould Tea

Use leaves to make a nutritious “tea” for your plants. Simply wrap a small pile of leaves in burlap and immerse in a garbage can or large bucket of water. Leave for three days, then remove the “tea bag” and dump contents into the compost. Scoop out the enriched water with a smaller bucket and use to water your plants and shrubs.

Related: 10 Pro Composting Tips From Expert Gardeners

How to Compost

Start your compost pile on bare earth. This allows worms and other beneficial organisms to aerate the compost and be transported to your garden beds.

Lay twigs or straw first, a few inches deep. This aids drainage and helps aerate the pile.

Add compost materials in layers, alternating moist and dry. Moist ingredients are food scraps, tea bags, seaweed, etc. Dry materials are straw, leaves, sawdust pellets and wood ashes. If you have wood ashes, sprinkle in thin layers, or they will clump together and be slow to break down.

Add manure, green manure (clover, buckwheat, wheatgrass, grass clippings) or any nitrogen source. This activates the compost pile and speeds the process along.

Keep compost moist. Water occasionally, or let rain do the job.

Cover with anything you have – wood, plastic sheeting, carpet scraps. Covering helps retain moisture and heat, two essentials for compost. Covering also prevents the compost from being over-watered by rain. The compost should be moist, but not soaked and sodden.

Turn. Every few weeks give the pile a quick turn with a pitchfork or shovel. This aerates the pile. Oxygen is required for the process to work, and turning “adds” oxygen. You can skip this step if you have a ready supply of coarse material like straw. Once you’ve established your compost pile, add new materials by mixing them in, rather than by adding them in layers. Mixing, or turning, the compost pile is key to aerating the composting materials and speeding the process to completion. If you want to buy a composter, rather than build your own compost pile, you may consider a buying a rotating compost tumbler which makes it easy to mix the compost regularly.

Related: How to Use Finished Compost

How to Choose a Composter

Choosing what type of composter will work best for you involves considering three main factors:

Where you live

What you’ll be composting

Whether you want to turn your compost manually or not

Where do you live? What will you be composting the most? Composting mostly kitchen scraps Composting kitchen scraps plus some yard waste Composting lots of yard waste Urban (no outdoor space) Worm bin (vermicomposting) Urban (some outdoor space, patio, or balcony) Worm bins or Compost tumbler Compost tumbler Suburban (with yard) Enclosed bin or compost tumbler Enclosed bin or compost tumbler Enclosed or DIY bin Rural (with yard/acreage) Enclosed bin, or compost tumbler Open compost pile, enclosed bin, or tumbler Open compost pile or multiple enclosed bins

If you’re prepared to turn your compost every 1-2 weeks and you live in an area with access to outdoor space and carbon rich materials, enclosed bins or open compost piles could work for you. If you live in an urban environment or your back isn’t ready for all that turning, compost tumblers or a worm composter are options worth considering. Read on to learn more about each of these compost systems and other composting tips.

Related: Worm Composting Basics for Beginners

Simplest Composting Methods

“No-Turn” Composting

The biggest chore with composting is turning the pile from time to time. However, with ‘no-turn composting’, your compost can be aerated without turning.

The secret is to thoroughly mix in enough coarse material, like straw, when building the pile. The compost will develop as fast as if it were turned regularly, and studies show that the nitrogen level may be even higher than with turned compost.

With ‘no-turn’ composting, add new materials to the top of the pile, and harvest fresh compost from the bottom of the bin. This can be easily done in an Aerobin Composter, or a Eco King compost bin. Which brings us to …

Enclosed Compost Bins

For small-scale outdoor composting, enclosed bins are the most practical. Enclosed bins include:

DIY Compost Bin

The least expensive method is to build one yourself from a heavy-duty garbage can. Simply drill 1.5-cm aeration holes in rows at roughly 15-cm intervals around the can. Fill the can with a mixture of high-carbon and high-nitrogen materials (see our table above). Stir the contents occasionally to avoid anaerobic pockets and to speed up the composting process. If the lid is secure, the bin can be laid on its side and rolled; a length of 2″ cedar ( use a 2×2 or a 2×4) can be bolted to the inside, running top to bottom, to help flip the material. Without this, the contents tend to stay in place while the bin is rolled.

Standard Compost Bins/Digesters

Another option is a compost bin, sometimes called a ‘compost digester’. Compost bins are enclosed on the sides and top, and open on the bottom so they sit directly on the ground. These are common composting units for homes in residential areas where bins tend to be smaller, yet enclosed enough to discourage pests. These bins are inexpensive, but it is difficult to turn the compost, so it can take several months to produce compost. These bins are thin-walled plastic, and may chip along the edges, especially during a freeze.

Food Waste Digester

These countertop ‘composters’ grind and dehydrate food waste rather than decomposing it. The process takes as little as three hours, leaving you with an odor-free material suitable for garden fertilizer. When finished, bury the resulting material beneath the soil surface, where the decomposition process kicks in–to the benefit of your plants.

Tumblers

The most efficient enclosed bin method is the compost tumbler. It’s possible to maintain relatively high temperatures in drum/tumbler systems, both because the container acts as insulation and because the turning keeps the microbes aerated and active. Some designs provide an interior “paddle” or “aeration spikes” which help bring air into the compost and prevent clumping of the composting materials. Other designs have holes on the ends for aeration. This greatly speeds up the composting process.

An enclosed ‘tumbler’ system offer the following benefits:

Speeds up the composting process

Composts year-round due to higher internal temperature

Can’t be accessed by rodents, raccoons, dogs, or other critters

Keeps compost neatly enclosed and odor-free; well-suited for residential areas and large apartment terraces or patios

To learn more, see Compost Tumblers: Comparing different compost tumbler models

Read more: Vegetable Garden Fertilizers – Types Of Fertilizer For Vegetable Gardens

Visit our shop for more information or to buy a compost tumbler.

Tips for Successful Composting

Activate Your Compost

‘Activators’ can be added to your compost to help kick-start decomposition and speed up composting. Common compost activators include: comfrey leaves, grass clippings, young weeds, and well-rotted chicken manure. You can also buy inoculant at your local garden center, though a shovel full of finished compost from another pile works just as well.

Flying Insects Attracted to Your Compost?

Small fruit flies are naturally attracted to the compost pile. Discourage them by covering any exposed fruit or vegetable matter. Keep a small pile of grass clippings next to your compost bin, and when you add new kitchen waste to the pile, cover it with one or two inches of clippings. Adding lime or calcium will also discourage flies.

Unpleasant Odors from Your Compost Pile?

This can be a concern in urban and suburban areas with small lots and neighbors living close by. Reduce or eliminate odors by following two practices: first, remember to not put bones or meat scraps into the compost; second, cover new additions to the compost pile with dry grass clippings or similar mulch. Adding lime or calcium will also neutralize odors. If the compost smells like ammonia, add carbon-rich elements such as straw, peat moss, or dried leaves. See 7 Signs Your Compost is Struggling and What You Can Do About It.

Is Your Compost Pile Steaming?

No problem. A hot, steamy pile means that you have a large community of microscopic critters working away at making compost.

Is Your Compost Pile Soggy?

This is a common problem, especially in winter, when carbon-based materials are in short supply. To solve this problem, you’ll need to restore your compost to a healthy nitrogen-carbon balance. To learn how restore your compost pile, read our article How to Fix a Soggy Compost Pile.

Matted Leaves, Grass Clippings Clumping Together?

This is a common problem with materials thrown into the composter. The wet materials stick together and slow the aeration process. There are two simple solutions: either set these materials to the side of the composter and add them gradually with other ingredients, or break them apart with a pitchfork. Grass clippings and leaves should be mixed with rest of the composting materials for best results.

Problems with Raccoons?

If there’s a population of raccoons in your area, they will be naturally attracted to your compost pile. The best solution to this problem is to bar their entry to the compost. (Traps and poisons are more trouble than they’re worth.) A wood or metal lid can be easily hinged to the bin described above on this page, or you can buy a commercially-made compost bin with secure fitted lids which are pest-proof, such as the Aerobin or Jora JK270.

A Moveable Feast

The soil beneath a compost bin becomes enriched as nutrients filter down with successive waterings. You can place your bin on a plot of earth that you plan to use for a future vegetable or flower bed, or fruit tree. Each year, you can move the bin to a different area; you’ll get a double benefit – the compost from the bin, and a bed of nutrient-rich soil ready for new plantings.

Take Advantage of Autumn’s Bounty

The biggest challenge for small-scale backyard composting is finding enough carbon-rich materials to balance the regular input of nitrogen-rich materials from kitchen scraps, fruit and vegetable peelings, coffee grounds, grass clippings, and other fresh materials.

To learn how to make the most of autumn’s bounty, read: Autumn Composting Tips

What About People Living in Urban Locations, Can We Compost Indoors?

Even if you live in an apartment or other urban location, you can still reduce your organic waste and produce your own compost for potted plants, balcony planters, or your plot in the local community garden. There are several different methods for composting indoors which are odor-free and compact enough for even small apartments. For more information about these and other indoor composting methods, read our article: How to Compost in an Apartment

What About Weed Seeds?

A liability in composting is the unexpected introduction of new weed seeds to your garden. This is caused by slow or incomplete composting that didn’t generate enough heat to kill any and all weed seeds. Weed seeds in compost are a nuisance because once the compost is transferred to your garden beds, the compost acts to fertilize the weeds and make them even more persistent! With home compost bins or piles, the way to eliminate weed seeds is twofold:

Make sure your compost is hot enough. Reach your hand into the center of the pile – it should be almost too hot for comfort. Specifically, the temperature should be 130 – 150 degrees F. It takes about 30 days at 140 degrees to kill all weed seeds.

Mix your pile. While your compost may be hot in the center of the mass, the outside of the pile is cooler, giving seeds a chance to survive. Mixing brings cooler material to the warmer area and also increases aeration, which helps attain the higher heat levels. Compost tumblers are very useful for this.

If you are buying bedding for animals, or using mulch or carbon-rich material to bulk up your compost pile, be aware of introducing seeds to your garden via the compost. For example, make sure to get straw, and not hay, since straw is mostly weed-free. Ask the sales staff if there have been any complaints about seeds in these products.

Related: The Best Compost Tea Recipe to Help Your Plants Thrive

Buy a Compost Bin

Below are a few samples. To see all the composters in our store: Click Here

Source: https://livingcorner.com.au Category: Garden

source https://livingcorner.com.au/composting/

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Best Mulch for a Vegetable Garden | Three Top Choices | joegardener®

Any natural mulch is better than no mulch at all, but that being said, there are pros and cons to each option. In this video, I explain the benefits and drawbacks of common organic mulch options.

You're reading: Best Mulch for a Vegetable Garden | Three Top Choices | joegardener®

While gardening, I always use mulch, especially in my raised bed vegetable gardens. I’m often asked what my favorite mulch is, and the truth is I don’t stick to just one type. I have a few preferred options, all of them natural, organic materials. Rubber, plastic, stones and shells may be mulches, but they don’t break down to improve my garden soil over time, so none is a mulch of choice for me.

Applying mulch is a step that’s so important but too often skipped. A layer of natural mulch that’s about two or three inches deep will suppress weeds, prevent compaction and erosion, retain moisture and create a barrier between plants and pathogens in the soil, among other benefits.

Straw Mulch

I like using straw because you get a lot of coverage for your money, it’s easy to spread, and it’s really lightweight. When starting seeds, it’s super important to use lightweight mulch. You don’t want the weight of a heavy mulch on top of sprouting seeds that are trying to break through the ground.

Straw can be left in place at the end of the season. It will break down, improving the soil as it does by adding organic matter and nutrients. Or if you prefer, you can gather up the straw and add it to your compost pile.

Just be sure to never confuse straw for hay — there is an important difference. Hay bales contain seeds that you don’t want to introduce into your garden.

Straw makes a great mulch. It’s easy to spread and lightweight. which is important when starting seeds.

Pine Bark Mulch

Finely ground pine bark is often sold in bags and called either mulch or soil conditioner. No matter what you call it, I like that it is very fine and light. Like straw, it’s good for tender plants and emerging seedlings. Ground pine bark mulch is also easy to spread and quickly works to improve your soil as it breaks down.

If you are worried that pine bark might rob nitrogen from your soil, don’t be. As a mulch just sitting on the soil surface, that’s not an issue. It’s only when pine bark is mixed in with soil that the carbon in the bark temporarily ties up the nitrogen in the soil.

Arborist Wood Chip Mulch

From time to time, I use wood chip mulch — but not just any wood chips. I get arborist wood chips, which are the chips from tree services that take down branches and old trees. Unlike many bagged mulches, arborist wood chips are free of dyes and pallet wood.

Wood chip mulch is great around ornamental plantings, though I only occasionally use it in the vegetable garden. The issue with wood chip mulch is it is heavy. That weight will inhibit the germination of seeds that were directly sown in the garden. Plus, it’s not my favorite look in the garden, which might be a consideration for you as it is for me.

Read more: Forest Gardening – The Agroforestry Research Trust

An upside of arborist wood chip mulch is the price is right — it’s free. For tree service companies, disposing of all those wood chips can be costly, so many will just give them away for free. This saves them costs on tipping fees and transportation, and you benefit too! You may be able to find a local company that advertises free mulch deliveries, or you can use getchipdrop.com to be put on a list used by several companies. Just be aware that the minimum delivery is quite large.

Wood chip mulch also has the benefit of improving the soil as it decomposes in place. Again, it will not rob the soil of nitrogen if simply laid on top of the soil.

Wood chips can be obtained from your local arborist and make a great natural mulch for the garden.

Shredded Leaf Mulch

The mulch I use most often is shredded leaves. I especially like how easy they are to work with, and I love that leaves are plentiful — and free — every fall. I know that my leaves are free of pesticides, and they make an incredible soil amendment as they decompose.

To shred leaves, you can go over them with a mulching mower or put the leaves in a large pail and use a string trimmer. While the string trimmer method gets the job done, it can be rather cumbersome to manipulate the trimmer head and definitely leads to arm fatigue if shredding more than just a few bags.

More convenient than raking up mowed leaves or using the string trimmer method is to use a product specifically created for the task: a bladeless electric leaf mulcher . Just plug it in and drop in the leaves. The volume will be reduced 11 to 1.

My favorite natural mulch and what I now use most often in my garden is shredded leaves. Leaves are plentiful and free every fall and make an incredible soil amendment as they decompose.

What do you think is the best mulch for the vegetable garden? Let us know in the comments below.

Links & Resources

Some product links in this guide are affiliate links. See full disclosure below.

Episode 026: Using Leaves as Mulch & Compost (and Why Leaves Change Color & Shed)

Episode 048: The Simple Science Behind Great Gardening, with Lee Reich

Episode 097: Spring Tips for Vegetable Garden Success

Episode 110: Why Mulch Matters in Every Garden: What You Need to Know

Episode 155: Managing Weeds Organically: Rodale Institute’s Latest Research, Prevention and Control

Episode 194: Easy No-Dig Gardening, with Charlie Nardozzi

joegardener blog: Why to Leave the Leaves

joegardenerTV YouTube: How to Create a Raised Bed Garden

joegardenerTV YouTube: How to Use Leaves as Garden Mulch

Read more: 7 Common Mistakes in Raised Bed Gardening – The Beginner’s Garden

joegardener Online Gardening Academy

: Popular courses on gardening fundamentals; managing pests, diseases & weeds; seed starting and more.

joegardener Online Gardening Academy Beginning Gardener Fundamentals : Essential principles to know to create a thriving garden.

joegardener Online Gardening Academy Growing Epic Tomatoes : Tomato expert Craig LeHoullier joins me in leading this course on how to grow healthier, productive tomato plants and how to overcome tomato-growing challenges. You can sign up to be notified when enrollment opens.

joegardenerTV YouTube

joegardener Newsletter

joegardener Facebook

joegardener Facebook Group

joegardener Instagram

joegardener Pinterest

joegardener Twitter

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Corona ® Tools – Video sponsor and Brand Partner of joegardener.com

Bladeless electric leaf mulcher

Chip Drop

Disclosure: Some product links in this guide are affiliate links, which means we would get a commission if you purchase. However, none of the prices of these resources have been increased to compensate us. None of the items included in this list have any bearing on any compensation being an influencing factor on their inclusion here. The selection of all items featured in this post and podcast were based solely on merit and in no way influenced by any affiliate or financial incentive, or contractual relationship. At the time of this writing, Joe Lamp’l has professional relationships with the following companies who may have products included in this post and podcast: Rain Bird, Corona Tools, Milorganite, Soil3, Exmark, Greenhouse Megastore, High Mowing Organic Seeds, Territorial Seed Company, Wild Alaskan Seafood Box and TerraThrive. These companies are either Brand Partners of joegardener.com and/or advertise on our website. However, we receive no additional compensation from the sales or promotion of their product through this guide. The inclusion of any products mentioned within this post is entirely independent and exclusive of any relationship.

Source: https://livingcorner.com.au Category: Garden

source https://livingcorner.com.au/best-mulch-for-a-vegetable-garden-three-top-choices-joegardener/