#p0700 | Explore Tumblr posts and blogs

smoothshift · 5 years ago

Text

The $800 Craigslist Subaru Legacy from hell dripping with blood: Part 3 via /r/cars

The $800 Craigslist Subaru Legacy from hell dripping with blood: Part 3

Part 1, Part 2

Well, it's alive, which is awesome but I just have to say lol this car sucks. Lots, LOTS of issues needed to be ironed out. So last I left off I got the junkyard engine home and was just going to throw it in as-is. I ended up deciding to do the head gaskets after all. Upon closer inspection I did see that it in fact was NOT running the updated head gaskets, so I decided fuck it. Stop being lazy and cheap. I'm actually glad I did because it seems coolant was getting into one of the head bolt holes, which isn't supposed to happen. I checked the head with a straightedge and it seemed fine so I decided not to send it off to the machine shop. Now that I got a better look at the cylinder walls, they look good except for the #4 cyl has some slight vertical scoring going on. Enough to feel but not quite enough to catch my fingernail in. Not exactly what I wanted to see, but not necessarily a death sentence either.

I cleaned up the block and heads real good with a blue scuff pad and die-grinder, and put on a set of new Fel-Pro MLS head gaskets. Yeah I know, "yOU SHoULd ONly UsE oEm hEAD GASKeTs!", because you know, Subaru OEM head gaskets are known for being so awesome. Besides, the Fel-Pro's are blue. Are the OEM gaskets blue? No.

So with the heads torqued down with new dubious head bolts from Amazon, I installed the timing components. FWIW, the Contitech kit is $75 less than the Aisin kit, and includes all Japanese components and the same Mitsuboshi belt, so I felt like I got a good deal there. I also did a valve adjustment (they were all out of adjustment), and the motor was basically ready to install.

I yanked the old engine block out, being careful not to take the torque converter with it, which would have been disastrous and is a pretty common occurrence, and swapped in the new motor. This process was actually took longer than expected. Turns out the oil pan, oil pickup and windage tray are different on the '04 and the '05, so I had to swap those over from the old engine, as well as the dipstick tube. Another thing I discovered is that the bolt hole for the dipstick tube mounting point was absent on the '04's cyl head, so I ended up having to drill my own. After that the motor went in easily and about an hour later it looked like this, and then about another hour after that it was pretty much ready to start. I first cranked it for a good 15 seconds with the cam/crank sensors unplugged to prime the oil system as well as listen for any ugly noises. It sounded fine, so I reconnected the sensors and sat there in the driver's seat ready to twist the key. This was a LOT of work, a decent amount of money in supplies/parts, and while I had to accept the fact that a $200 junkyard motor might just throw a rod immediately, I couldn't help but be nervous. I wanted someone to hold my hand but I was by myself. I cranked it over and it took it's first breath.

It ran! It also sounded good. No odd noises. Fairly steady idle. Satisfying! I shut it down and filled it with coolant, and let it warm up fully. No overheating, no white smoke, no bubbling. Success! I should also mention at this point that the dashboard was lit up like a christmas tree. Check engine light, transmission light, airbag light and cruise control light were all showing issues.

Unfortunately I needed a scanner that can read all of the modules, so I ended up ordering this on Amazon and I highly recommend it. Lots of functionality for the price and it's not a Chinese knockoff of a more expensive scanner. I already knew the ECU had o2 sensor codes by using my generic scanner, but the wait for the new scanner to arrive was maddening. The trans light had me concerned. I really didn't want to have to replace the transmission as well even though I knew the likelihood of having a bad transmission was slim. The 4EAT is really stout and even when I was a Subaru tech I don't think I've replaced a single one. That doesn't mean the PO who shouldn't be allowed to even hold a screwdriver didn't fuck it up somehow.

Finally the scanner came and I got to see the list of codes (I'll just copy and paste here)

Engine Control System---(4)

1.1 P0700 Request AT MIL On Current

1.2 P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank1 Sensor1) Current

1.3 P0051 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank2 Sensor1) Current

1.4 P0057 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank2 Sensor2) Current

Transmission Control System---(1)

2.1 P1714 Throttle Position Sensor Power Supply circuit Old

Airbag System---(3)

4.1 26 Passenger's Airbag indicator failure

4.2 29 ODS failure

4.3 27 ODS Communication error

Oof. Ok lets start with the o2 sensors first. Like I said, nearly all the new o2 sensors look brand new except for the one that they couldn't get out and mangled beyond recognition. That one is the P0057. The two front sensors (P0031 and P0051) ended up being because of this. Can you see the problem? I bet these are some Chinese eBay sensors, because Denso or Bosch replacements wouldn't have the terminals in the wrong location, and cheapass PO probably didn't want to drop $200 on OEM sensors when you can get them from eBay for $39 for both. Swapping the terminals in the correct location was easy enough, and those codes cleared. Only P0057 is left and should be remedied once that sensor is replaced.

Next was the transmission light. This ended up being just a loose ground terminal it seems. I can't even blame the PO for that one as I'm the one that left it loose. So far after tightening it the light hasn't come back.

The airbag light was interesting. Code 26 is for the light on the dash that says whether the pass-side airbag is on or off, depending on the readings from the ODS (Occupant detection system). Code 26 is actually a common issue on '06 and up Legacies/Outbacks where the solder joints in the LED's crack. The difference is that on those the LED's are located in the overhead console, where my '05 they're on the dash and not known to be an issue. Besides, the lights were working.

Code 29 is an even bigger issue since upon replacing the ODS module (if it was faulty) the system needs to be calibrated which can only be done at the dealer. Fortunately the issue ended up being that the ODS module under the passenger's seat was unplugged. Once I plugged it back in all the Airbag codes cleared and haven't returned.

I was very pleased at this point. Loose connections and unplugged modules don't cost anything to fix. Now I can move onto the next project, charging the A/C.

First I flushed the rest of the old oil out of the evaporator and a/c lines, connected them to the new a/c condensor and then added oil to the compressor and a little bit of dye, let it vacuum for about 45 minutes using a vacuum pump ordered from Autozone, and then charged it with fresh 134a. This car only uses 1lb of refrigerant, and charging by weight is difficult with those small disposable cans so I did my best, but I think I might have overcharged it slightly. I'm getting 40 degrees out of the vents which is acceptable, but it also was only in the 70's that day. I guess I'll find out during the next heat wave.

It's basically driveable at this point so I think I'm going to hit up the DMV on Monday and register it. Items left of the to-do list are:

Replace rear springs

Replace front bumper (I'm searching for a matching one)

Replace D/S fender (which I already have)

Replace L/R o2 sensor

Detail the shit out of it

Hope you're all still with me so far. This saga is far from over because I don't even know how it drives yet. Stay tuned!

#reddit #autonews #auto #cars

0 notes

smoothshift · 7 years ago

Text

Does this add up? Transmission problems via /r/cars

Does this add up? Transmission problems

TLDR: 2005 automatic BMW Z4 2.5i shifted rough after driving in puddle. Car has 134,100 miles with no leaks or noticeable issuses after BMW took a look at it. BMW wants $8292.23 to rebuild transmission. Engine codes showed up as P0700, P0734, P0744. Could this be fixed with transmission replacement? Or are we better off just purchasing a new car since this BMW is only worth about $6,000.

Let me give some background info.. My mom has a 134,100 mile 2005 automatic BMW Z4 2.5i, purchased it with over 100,000 miles and has had it for about 2-3 years. To be honest I don’t know what has been done to it maintence wise, however we have been giving it oil changes every 5,000 miles, but that’s about it. Ever since she got it I have noticed in drive while it idles, the car vibrates noticebally, but never does in park or neutral and goes away right when you give it gas. Also when you turn the wheel you can hear a winding noise coming from the steering wheel. No other problems have came up from those.

It rained here bad a couple days ago and she said she drove through some big puddles doing some errands. When she went to turn the car back on after her errands she claimed it would not go into reseverse. She did get it home eventually after a push start. I went to take the car up to the BMW dealer and while driving there was about 5 lights on, all I think were the tires and traction control. The car also shifted pretty rough. They evaluated it and when we got it back only the engine light was still on but they gave us a big list of issues, however the car drove fine after.

Valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, engine mounts, steering gear boots, strut mounts, replace front tires, wheel alignment, coolant flush, water pump and transmission rebuild ($8292.23).. a total of over $15,000 in repairs. I don’t doubt most of this stuff needs to be done, but the suspension feels and drives fine, I have not seen anything leaking and have not heard any weird noises. I read the engine codes and they were P0700, P0734, P0744. What do you guys think?

#reddit #autonews #auto #cars

0 notes