#or this family owned mexican place near my old house called Mezcal | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

passantony-blog · 7 years

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Day 11- Nov. 5th We are flying back from Huatulco to Mexico City where Ryan and Danielle will continue on to SFO and where I part ways with mi amigos and continue on to Guatemala (with a short 2 day stint in Mexico City). They’ve been an amazing couple to travel with together.

Full of customized songs including “Cats and the Bags”, “We got the things (We got it!)”, and the classic “800-Empire” tune. Lots of calibration (dropping things), combining patchwork Spanish and enjoying the great (and not so great) food. My cheeks sore from a permanent smile from Danielle and Ryans antics, heart heavy as we prepare to say our goodbyes.

The last week was a wonderful capstone to a mosaic of different experiences throughout the various communities and climates of one of the southern most states in Mexico. Our final portion of Oaxaca took us on an 8-hour bumping, but very comfy ride on the ADO bus up to the mile-high capital of Oaxaca City. A stark contrast to the sleepy Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca city is a high desert city of over 100,000 residents, possibly double that number given that it was the Dia de los Muertos festival.

We checked into a very homey and cozy casa located next to the gorgeous Santa Domingo Church, a close walk to most of the attractions but tucked away in a quiet neighborhood off the main drag. Quick story on the Airbnb host, Lorena. She was gracious enough in the last minute to offer up her home to us. She’s an environmental steward in Oaxaca working with agave farmers in the region to develop environmental certification processes for mezcal and the replanting wild, native agave in severely eroded sites around the valley. Coincidently, she also knows and visits Cotati often as a close friend to the owners of the nearby Ray’s Deli in Petaluma. Crazy small world (more on that to come). Needless to say that we connected and really enjoyed her home, full of succulents lining the inner courtyard and open air architecture of the simple, rustic and unique accommodations.

As much as we loved the house, we came for Day of the Dead and though our lids weighed heavy over our eyes from the sleep deprived bus ride, we rallied to see the city and nearby graveyards. Having already explored the major destinations around city last year, it was a warm welcome to not feel rushed or obligated to jam-pack the itinerary. A stroll through the cobblestone streets, sharing with Ryan and Danielle the sites of the city was a comfortable change of pace to my normal adrenaline-induced travel style. Muy Tranquila.

Searching for outdoor activities last year, I stumbled on a local ex-pat hiking group “Hoofing it Oaxaca” that took me on a wonderfully unique trek through the mountains with a group of mostly retired Canadians, Americans and Europeans. Returning this year, I found that they were offering several Day of the Dead themed hikes.The first being a shuttle to Xoxo (Pronounced “Ho-Ho”), a small town just outside of Oaxaca City notable for it’s massive graveyard. The scene there was very lively, with food stalls, Dia de los Muertos trinket vendors, live musica and loads of tourists snapping shots of the decorated graves as family members sat by. Initially somber in our approach we were quickly reminded by a man sitting by a grave that this was a celebration of those that are no longer with us. The man was sitting by a grave with beautiful marigolds and candles illuminating the sand art of a basketball and hoop. “Mi hermano. He loved basketball”. He proudly described his brother, handing us a shot of mezcal and raising a glass in his name, “Salute!”.

These specific marigolds that covered the graves were unlike those more commonly found in the US. They had a sweet, intoxicating scent that Mexicans believe was the smell of the dead. Laden with flowers, art and personal trinkets, illuminated by slow dripping candles, the intention of these alters was to attract souls back to the graves to enjoy their company on what they call the “All-Saints Day”, Nov. 1st. This day, a mixture of Spanish Catholicism and Mayan spirituality is believed to be the date where the spiritual and mortal world are at their thinnest boarder between the two. The alters and music are intended to attract the family and friends, being careful not to draw in the wrong spirits as they believe all spirits, both good and bad are wandering amongst them during this event. In all, Xoxo was a very incredible and uplifting event. Proud family members sharing the live of their past loved ones to passerby’s, though the waves of passing tour groups detracted from the overall experience.

The second graveyard, in the town of Atzompa, was much more intimate with small crowds and more locals sitting quietly around their tombstones. Excited children faces illuminated as they toy with the candles, passing the flame over unlit wicks. Abeulas in their head scarves huddled over the graves, silently respecting the dead. So curious to know what they’re thinking as they pay tribute to the deceased, they’re youth far behind them and the reality of their life to be celebrated in the near future alongside their family members. Wanting so badly to comminate and express gratitude and well-wishing to the families, but restricted by lack of a common language I was held to only subtle nods and smiles passing along the sites. Hopefully the gestures were understood.

On the second night, on a tip from our Airbnb host we traveled to the outskirts of town to an industrial art exhibit with a different, modern take on the Dia de los Muertos. Was interesting to see the interpretation of the holiday by the new generation, hammocks hanging in an old limestone factory, small alters tucked under the large cement tanks and a beautiful glassblowing art studio hidden beyond a catwalk leading to the old furnace room. What a gem to see the modern aspect of art and tradition.

Having arrived late to the art exhibit, we only had a few minutes to enjoy the building. We had more plans though, continuing on we taxied out to a small Etla, San Agustin, known for it’s large parades of rivalry Day of the Dead villages. One side reflecting thousands of small circular mirrors in a sort of chain mail garb that bounced and sparkled in their dance. The other side in furry long white-haired costumes from shoulders to their knees alongside both groups were brass bands belting tubas and trombones encouraging the two groups to dance and jump amongst one another as the throng of bystanders, smartphone in hand, flash photos of the scene, beer in hand. We were wiped from the day, and though the dancing and festivities lasted to sunrise we slipped out for an early night unable to keep up.

The rest of the week consisted of mellow meandering through the streets of Oaxaca, picking up fellow travelers along the way. Kate, a British doctor from Brighton, met us on the first evening with the Xoxo graveyard visit and was such a joy to have, we adopted the solo traveler for the rest of the week. Rachel and Erica, two girls that we serendipitously ran into at a taco shop were Sebastopudlians that happened to overhear us talking about Sonoma. A wonderful little crew formed enjoying the last few evenings together. Seems to always work out that way when you keep your blinders open.

Paid one last visit to the graveyards, these ones about an hour outside of town. While Ryan and Danielle had some solo time doing their cooking class, I teamed up with the Hoofing it Oaxaca one more time trekking for 6 miles along dirt roads through the farms where all the marigolds were grown for the regional celebration. Their Day of the Dead was held the day after others, using the leftover unsold flowers to cover their graves in huge bushels of yellow, red and white color. It was so interesting to see the different between each graveyard. All had their own cultural take and feel to the holiday reflective of their community.

With a late bus out of Oaxaca City, we shared our final hours with our new friends before giving cheers to one another’s safe journeys and going amongst our ways. After a much more comfortable ride back down the mountains, we awoke in Huatulco. The town was slightly more developed for tourism that Puerto Escondido but still held an isolated charm and was mostly visited by Mexican tourists with few gringos in the mix. Not the most exciting place, but wonderful beaches shaded in palm trees was exactly what we needed to cap an active first two weeks.

With Ryan and Danielle parting for their flight, we end the prologue of the trip. Two days in Mexico City to play before starting a completely different experience with the Guatemala volunteer commitment. Initial shock and loneliness at losing their jovial energy slowly replaced with the excitement of the new chapter.

Aloha guys! (Hello and goodbye)

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