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ameliaattar · 5 years ago

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xNaked fashion: The new sustainable fashion revolution By Safia Minney 2011: New internationalist publication LTD Oxford ‘Fashion is more than simply a passion. It is a tool… the power to change the world with style.’ ‘We are told constantly that todays mainstream fashion industry is all we might desire and all we should expect… there are some startling holes in the claims of the worlds biggest fashion brands that they offer unparelled opportunity for both consumers and developing world workers. ‘ People Tree and Safia minney:‘Their approach is unashably producer-centric and with a long term view of the planet and its citizens. All of which means that when you embrace this sort of fashion and creativity you do more than design, write about or a buy a vest-top or a pair of jeans. You support communities, protect indiginious textile weavers and designers, help to realsise mellenium development goals such as getting girls into eduction and boldter eceological resilience. ‘Fair trade fashion brings genuine and measurable results to some of the worlds most vulnerable communities.’ – Emma Watson Examples of sustainabity forward designers:· Terra plana· From somewhere Conventional economics and consumerism are stripping land and natural resources away from farmers and fisherfolk and concentrating it all into the hands of a few business owners, investors and their army- the adverisers, creatives and marketeers who make consumotion so seductive, even at the cost of our planet and our sanity. From rural villages in bangledesh to ‘upcycling’ ateliers in London and Melbourne and boutiques in newyork, tokyp and paris, sustainable fashion pionerrs, creatives and consumers are demanding a fashion industry free of worker exploitation. They are talking about a new industry that sustains this planet, that looks at real role models and does not exploit our insecurtities through ‘body fashism’ (prejudice or discrimination based on a person's weight and appearance.) The price tag on fashion you buy rarely covers the real social and environmental costs…In bangledesh clothing exports account for 70% of GDP and the industry employs over three million workers, mostly women. The last 3 decades have made subsistence living and farming a struggle, with governments, advertised by national and multicultural businesses, shifting the terms of trade to favour large and intensive farms. With farm produce prices hitting an all time low , farmers struggle to cover their production costs, and are increasingly at the mercy of seed and cemical companies, work that once earnt a decent living has become sull of economic insecurity, and climate change is pushing the farmer closer to the edge. Fact: 100,000 farmers have commited suicide in india in the last 10 years. Some governments are beginning to take the initiative in promoting accountability, transparency and better trading practice. Consumers are demanding better practice from the brands they love, and the pressure on businesses to put content behind their codes of conduct is forcing atleast some of them to reorganise the way their teams buy and sell products. ‘if you pay a little more, we can live a little better’ Its not about withdrawing completely form places like bangledesh/ india/ china. As it would be the death on thousands of people who rely on that wage. Its about creating a fair system where these people get paid a living wage that’s more than £40 a month. Companies need to step up and make changes. Be more transparent but not only this but to take accountability for their actions. making 24 cents per garment – an item that will eventually sell for $140 or more. Where is the justification in that. ( https://brandongaille.com/36-shocking-sweatshop-statistics/ ) Fashions environmental impact at the moment is unsustainable. The british Clothing and textiles sector alone currently produces around 3.1 million tonnes of CO2, two million tonnes of waste and 70 million tonnes of waste water per year. This means that we each throw away 30 kilos per year. WE need to consume less fashion and wear our clothes for longer, while the fabrics and clothes that we do buy need to have more ‘value added’ ( upcycling) – benefiting not only the farmers but also as many artisans as possible in its transformation to clothing. Fair trade can make a big difference… takes a long term view, working in partenership with producers and enabling communities to ‘invest’ in envirometnal initiatives and diversify. It recognises that if farmers are given half a chance they will protect the environment. Why would people whos lives are so dependant on the resources of their natural surroundings, destroy their environment? The answer is that they only do so when driven to it by low prices, unfair terms of trde and the insecurity that comes from not knowing where your childs next meal will come from. They only do it when there seems to be no alternative. Fair trade, social businesses and new economics are leading the way in showing how we can protect the environment and helpb the poor feed themselves. Polyester the most widely used manufactured fibre, is made from patroleom. The manufacture of this and other synthetics fabrics is an energy intensive process requiring large amounts of crude oil and releasing millionsof tonnes of Co2. With oil supplies dwindling, we have to find alternatives to oil intensive farming methods now before its too late. Organic farming takes 1.5 tonnes of co2 per year per acre out the atmosphere. Coventionary grown cotton is one of the most water dependant crops to be grown. It takes over 2,000 litres of water to produce the average tshirt with conventional cotton. Organic and fairtrade cotton has helped reduce water consumption by over 60 per cent in the Indian state of gurjarat, by supporting farmers who ivenst in drip irrigation. WWW.Parlement.co.uk// Publication and records Using hmrc figures it has been estimated that 1,130,000 tonnes of clothing was purchased in the uk in 2016, an increase of 200,000 since 2012. An increase of 10% of thrifiting could deliver environmental improvement, decreasing carbon emmitions by 3% and water by 4%. Increasing garment life times is one of the most effective ways of reducing their environmental footprints. Extending clothing life to an extra 9 months can reduce waste, carbon footprints and water footprints by 20-30%. The role that schools and colleges could play in both raising sustainability awareness and posting the skill and habits nessesary to create, mend and care for clothes. Fiscal reform- used to encourage the repair and maintenance of clothing by phasing out employers national insurance contributons and zero ratinf VAT. Value of fashion report New landmark report reveals fashion industryworth £21 billion to the UK economy. Fashions wider contribution to the economy (known as the indirect, induced and spillous effects) in influencing spending in other industry ranging from IT to Tourism is calculated as more than £16 billion. Including this, the fashion industries total contribution to the UKs eceonomy is the estimated to stand at over £37 billion. The industries direct economic contribution to UK GDP was collected by analysing the industries profits and wages. (GVA) Across a wide range of fashion prodcuts and items- including womens wear and mens wear, through to handbags and shoes plus the contribution of fashion education, fashion marketing and fashion media. Fashion is much more than the profits made by the high street stores. The industry stretches far and wide from design to marketing to teaching. Factors behind the growth of the fashion industry cited in this report include:- The desire and demand created by the top designer sector and its influence on and diffusion the mainstream ie. Highstreet retailers and super markets. - The expansion of fashion brands into other products lines beyond clothing (ie, pufume, accessories and home) Uk fashion industry employs:- 816,000 people directly, the highest employment rate for creative carears- 15th largest industry (out of 81) in the UK- Is evolving and innovating- due to the online market and sustainability - Drives tourism - Best employees and creatives H and M Recycle clothing points, - ��5 voucher for unwated material or clothing.Sharing the story/ where are your clothes made- impacts on the planetFactory map, large data base explaining where everything has been made etc- mainly china and bangledesh One supplier in the uk.High air miles before it even enters the stores or countrues where its boughtLots of recycled and or raw materials Suppliers must be sustainabily certified. Marketing fashion- strategy branding, promotion- harriet posner “when clothes leave the factories where they are made, they are meely ‘garments’ or ‘apparel’. Only when the marketers get ahold of them do they magically become fashion.” “marketing operates at every level of the fashion system and effects the entire business industry supply chain from product development through to retail; it is as relevant to couture, luxary labels and designer brands as it is to independent nieche labels or to the mass market and volume appareal bisiness marketing is the common denominator that ties it all together.” The presentation of self in the everyday-Erving goffman “if unaquanted with the individual observers can glean clues from his conduct and appearance which allows them to aplly their previous experience with individuals roughly similar to the one before them or more important to apply untested sterotypes” Edge expo- fashion industry stats: - Global appareal market is values at £3 trillion and is 2% of the worlds GDP- Almost 7% is concentrated in Europe, usa, china and japan- Second to oil, clothing and textile is the second largest polluter on the world- United nations climate change news states, the fashion industry contributes 10% of global green house gasses due to the long supply chains and energy intensive production- The us us the largest umporter of gardnents in the world; nealy 40% of the appearl production sold in the us from china. Waste:- Nearly 20% of the global water waste is producted by fashion- Cotton production is responsible for 24% of inpesticides and 11% of pesticides, despite using 3% of worlds arable land- 20,000 litres of water is needed to produce 1 kg of cotton ( 1 tshirt)- Textile industry is one of the top 3 water wasting industries in china. 2.5 billion tonnes of waste per year.- 15% of material intended for clothing ends up wasted and on the floor- Daily in hong kong, there are 253 tonnes of textiles sent to landfill per day which is 92,345 per year. Just in hong kong Recycle- Consumers throw away shoes and clothing on average of 70 pounds per person a year- A few companies have textile recycling orograms, about 85% of this waste goes to landfills. And clothing occupies 5% of landfill space- Up to 95% of textiles that are landfilled each year can be recycled- Landfill space is expensive and hard to find - Using recycled cotton can save 20,000 litres of water per KG of cotton Used clothing- The US is the largest exporter of second hand clothing, it exports over 1 billion pounds of used clothing each year- Over 70% of the worlds population use second hand clothing- Consumers in the UK have sn estimated £46.7 billion worth of clothes in their closet. Thoughts:for just 1 t-shirt, 20,000 litres of water is used in the making process. That is the equivwlent of 175 10 minuite showers or could can keep someone hydrated for 7142 days on 2.8litres per day. In a world where people don’t have easy or any acess to clean drinking water, why are we wasting it on creating new clothes when there are other options which are more sustainably viable. Fashion: Fast fashion issue 6, vouge new York volume 108 “Americans want clothing that is quick and easy. The gap made a billion giving it to them” “the gap unlike ralph lauren has made good taste affordable and acessable to the masses; those who previously have been denied well designed, well made classic clothing for reasons wither financial or georapgical… you can pop in to their nearest gap, without much commitment and walk out looking like they were born with taste” Naked fashion: The new sustainable fashion revolution By Safia Minney 2011: New internationalist publication LTD Oxford ‘Fashion is more than simply a passion. It is a tool… the power to change the world with style.’ ‘We are told constantly that todays mainstream fashion industry is all we might desire and all we should expect… there are some startling holes in the claims of the worlds biggest fashion brands that they offer unparelled opportunity for both consumers and developing world workers. ‘ People Tree and Safia minney:‘Their approach is unashably producer-centric and with a long term view of the planet and its citizens. All of which means that when you embrace this sort of fashion and creativity you do more than design, write about or a buy a vest-top or a pair of jeans. You support communities, protect indiginious textile weavers and designers, help to realsise mellenium development goals such as getting girls into eduction and boldter eceological resilience. ‘Fair trade fashion brings genuine and measurable results to some of the worlds most vulnerable communities.’ – Emma Watson Examples of sustainabity forward designers:· Terra plana· From somewhere Conventional economics and consumerism are stripping land and natural resources away from farmers and fisherfolk and concentrating it all into the hands of a few business owners, investors and their army- the adverisers, creatives and marketeers who make consumotion so seductive, even at the cost of our planet and our sanity. From rural villages in bangledesh to ‘upcycling’ ateliers in London and Melbourne and boutiques in newyork, tokyp and paris, sustainable fashion pionerrs, creatives and consumers are demanding a fashion industry free of worker exploitation. They are talking about a new industry that sustains this planet, that looks at real role models and does not exploit our insecurtities through ‘body fashism’ (prejudice or discrimination based on a person's weight and appearance.) The price tag on fashion you buy rarely covers the real social and environmental costs…In bangledesh clothing exports account for 70% of GDP and the industry employs over three million workers, mostly women. The last 3 decades have made subsistence living and farming a struggle, with governments, advertised by national and multicultural businesses, shifting the terms of trade to favour large and intensive farms. With farm produce prices hitting an all time low , farmers struggle to cover their production costs, and are increasingly at the mercy of seed and cemical companies, work that once earnt a decent living has become sull of economic insecurity, and climate change is pushing the farmer closer to the edge. Fact: 100,000 farmers have commited suicide in india in the last 10 years. Some governments are beginning to take the initiative in promoting accountability, transparency and better trading practice. Consumers are demanding better practice from the brands they love, and the pressure on businesses to put content behind their codes of conduct is forcing atleast some of them to reorganise the way their teams buy and sell products. ‘if you pay a little more, we can live a little better’ Its not about withdrawing completely form places like bangledesh/ india/ china. As it would be the death on thousands of people who rely on that wage. Its about creating a fair system where these people get paid a living wage that’s more than £40 a month. Companies need to step up and make changes. Be more transparent but not only this but to take accountability for their actions. making 24 cents per garment – an item that will eventually sell for $140 or more. Where is the justification in that. ( https://brandongaille.com/36-shocking-sweatshop-statistics/ ) Fashions environmental impact at the moment is unsustainable. The british Clothing and textiles sector alone currently produces around 3.1 million tonnes of CO2, two million tonnes of waste and 70 million tonnes of waste water per year. This means that we each throw away 30 kilos per year. WE need to consume less fashion and wear our clothes for longer, while the fabrics and clothes that we do buy need to have more ‘value added’ ( upcycling) – benefiting not only the farmers but also as many artisans as possible in its transformation to clothing. Fair trade can make a big difference… takes a long term view, working in partenership with producers and enabling communities to ‘invest’ in envirometnal initiatives and diversify. It recognises that if farmers are given half a chance they will protect the environment. Why would people whos lives are so dependant on the resources of their natural surroundings, destroy their environment? The answer is that they only do so when driven to it by low prices, unfair terms of trde and the insecurity that comes from not knowing where your childs next meal will come from. They only do it when there seems to be no alternative. Fair trade, social businesses and new economics are leading the way in showing how we can protect the environment and helpb the poor feed themselves. Polyester the most widely used manufactured fibre, is made from patroleom. The manufacture of this and other synthetics fabrics is an energy intensive process requiring large amounts of crude oil and releasing millionsof tonnes of Co2. With oil supplies dwindling, we have to find alternatives to oil intensive farming methods now before its too late. Organic farming takes 1.5 tonnes of co2 per year per acre out the atmosphere. Coventionary grown cotton is one of the most water dependant crops to be grown. It takes over 2,000 litres of water to produce the average tshirt with conventional cotton. Organic and fairtrade cotton has helped reduce water consumption by over 60 per cent in the Indian state of gurjarat, by supporting farmers who ivenst in drip irrigation. WWW.Parlement.co.uk// Publication and records Using hmrc figures it has been estimated that 1,130,000 tonnes of clothing was purchased in the uk in 2016, an increase of 200,000 since 2012. An increase of 10% of thrifiting could deliver environmental improvement, decreasing carbon emmitions by 3% and water by 4%. Increasing garment life times is one of the most effective ways of reducing their environmental footprints. Extending clothing life to an extra 9 months can reduce waste, carbon footprints and water footprints by 20-30%. The role that schools and colleges could play in both raising sustainability awareness and posting the skill and habits nessesary to create, mend and care for clothes. Fiscal reform- used to encourage the repair and maintenance of clothing by phasing out employers national insurance contributons and zero ratinf VAT. Value of fashion report New landmark report reveals fashion industryworth £21 billion to the UK economy. Fashions wider contribution to the economy (known as the indirect, induced and spillous effects) in influencing spending in other industry ranging from IT to Tourism is calculated as more than £16 billion. Including this, the fashion industries total contribution to the UKs eceonomy is the estimated to stand at over £37 billion. The industries direct economic contribution to UK GDP was collected by analysing the industries profits and wages. (GVA) Across a wide range of fashion prodcuts and items- including womens wear and mens wear, through to handbags and shoes plus the contribution of fashion education, fashion marketing and fashion media. Fashion is much more than the profits made by the high street stores. The industry stretches far and wide from design to marketing to teaching. Factors behind the growth of the fashion industry cited in this report include:- The desire and demand created by the top designer sector and its influence on and diffusion the mainstream ie. Highstreet retailers and super markets. - The expansion of fashion brands into other products lines beyond clothing (ie, pufume, accessories and home) Uk fashion industry employs:- 816,000 people directly, the highest employment rate for creative carears- 15th largest industry (out of 81) in the UK- Is evolving and innovating- due to the online market and sustainability - Drives tourism - Best employees and creatives H and M Recycle clothing points, - £5 voucher for unwated material or clothing.Sharing the story/ where are your clothes made- impacts on the planetFactory map, large data base explaining where everything has been made etc- mainly china and bangledesh One supplier in the uk.High air miles before it even enters the stores or countrues where its boughtLots of recycled and or raw materials Suppliers must be sustainabily certified.

Marketing fashion- strategy branding, promotion- harriet posner “when clothes leave the factories where they are made, they are meely ‘garments’ or ‘apparel’. Only when the marketers get ahold of them do they magically become fashion.” “marketing operates at every level of the fashion system and effects the entire business industry supply chain from product development through to retail; it is as relevant to couture, luxary labels and designer brands as it is to independent nieche labels or to the mass market and volume appareal bisiness marketing is the common denominator that ties it all together.”

The presentation of self in the everyday-Erving goffman “if unaquanted with the individual observers can glean clues from his conduct and appearance which allows them to aplly their previous experience with individuals roughly similar to the one before them or more important to apply untested sterotypes”

Edge expo- fashion industry stats: - Global appareal market is values at £3 trillion and is 2% of the worlds GDP- Almost 7% is concentrated in Europe, usa, china and japan- Second to oil, clothing and textile is the second largest polluter on the world- United nations climate change news states, the fashion industry contributes 10% of global green house gasses due to the long supply chains and energy intensive production- The us us the largest umporter of gardnents in the world; nealy 40% of the appearl production sold in the us from china. Waste:- Nearly 20% of the global water waste is producted by fashion- Cotton production is responsible for 24% of inpesticides and 11% of pesticides, despite using 3% of worlds arable land- 20,000 litres of water is needed to produce 1 kg of cotton ( 1 tshirt)- Textile industry is one of the top 3 water wasting industries in china. 2.5 billion tonnes of waste per year.- 15% of material intended for clothing ends up wasted and on the floor- Daily in hong kong, there are 253 tonnes of textiles sent to landfill per day which is 92,345 per year. Just in hong kong Recycle- Consumers throw away shoes and clothing on average of 70 pounds per person a year- A few companies have textile recycling orograms, about 85% of this waste goes to landfills. And clothing occupies 5% of landfill space- Up to 95% of textiles that are landfilled each year can be recycled- Landfill space is expensive and hard to find - Using recycled cotton can save 20,000 litres of water per KG of cotton Used clothing- The US is the largest exporter of second hand clothing, it exports over 1 billion pounds of used clothing each year- Over 70% of the worlds population use second hand clothing- Consumers in the UK have sn estimated £46.7 billion worth of clothes in their closet.

Thoughts:for just 1 t-shirt, 20,000 litres of water is used in the making process. That is the equivwlent of 175 10 minuite showers or could can keep someone hydrated for 7142 days on 2.8litres per day. In a world where people don’t have easy or any acess to clean drinking water, why are we wasting it on creating new clothes when there are other options which are more sustainably viable.

Fashion: Fast fashion issue 6, vouge new York volume 108 “Americans want clothing that is quick and easy. The gap made a billion giving it to them” “the gap unlike ralph lauren has made good taste affordable and acessable to the masses; those who previously have been denied well designed, well made classic clothing for reasons wither financial or georapgical… you can pop in to their nearest gap, without much commitment and walk out looking like they were born with taste”

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