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backupgeneratorsny · 1 year ago

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5 Easy Steps to Use Manual Generator Interlock Kit

When there is an extended power outage due to a severe storm or any other natural disaster, going about your daily routine without electricity can be challenging. The best solution to overcome this is to use a generator to continue your essential work during the power outage. However, connecting a generator directly to your home electrical system may be dangerous and lead to potentially fatal electrical hazards. To avoid such risks, you must use a manual generator interlock kit to prevent accidents and ensure safety. The following post will guide you on using a manual generator interlock kit to ensure safety while handling electrical systems.

Step 1: Safety Precautions

The first vital thing to consider before installing a manual generator interlock kit is your safety. Wear proper electrical safety equipment, such as rubber gloves and safety glasses. Test and verify that the power supply is off before you begin working on the system. Keep your hands dry, and never touch electrical wires with wet hands.

Step 2: Install Your Generator Interlock Kit

An installation manual comes with your manual generator interlock kit. It's essential to read and follow the instructions provided in the manual carefully. The instructions may include installing a new breaker, mounting the interlock plate, and wiring the generator to the interlock kit. You should also ensure that your generator meets National Electrical Code (NEC) guidelines.

Step 3: Switch Off Your Main Breaker

Before connecting your generator, switch off the main circuit breaker to prevent the generator's power from feeding back into the main electrical grid. You will have to install a new circuit breaker at a similar rating to the actual circuit breaker. It's important to ensure that all the electrical appliances not needed during the power outage are switched off.

Step 4: Connect Your Generator to Your Interlock Kit

After switching off the main circuit breaker:

Connect your generator to the generator inlet box via an appropriate-sized power cord.

Ensure that your power cord is rated for your generator's total power output.

Connect the transfer switch to your generator through the interlock kit. Once you make a proper connection, your generator's power is ready to use.

Step 5: Switch On Your Generator

The final step is starting your generator and using the electrical system. Before turning on the generator, ensure that all the essential appliances are turned off, such as industrial equipment, air conditioners, and water heaters. Reconnect appliances gradually and test them to ensure everything operates correctly.

Is using a manual generator interlock kit useful

A manual generator interlock kit is a device that allows safe switching between the utility power supply and the generator supply to prevent feedback to power lines that would cause injury to utility personnel. The interlock kit acts as a barrier to ensure that the generator cannot be connected to the electrical system unless the main power is disconnected entirely. It is also a cost-effective and reliable alternative to installing an automatic transfer switch that might require significant technical expertise.

Manual generator interlock kits have several benefits besides safety. First, they can prevent damage to appliances by ensuring that the generator's power is of the right quality nor does it infringe on the wiring system.

Second, they are easy to install with the right hardware and instructions and do not require specialized technical knowledge.

Third, manual generator interlock kits are affordable and can be found in various sizes, depending on the owner's needs.

Conclusion:

In conclusion, using a manual generator interlock kit ensures safety while using your electrical systems during power outages. The steps above provide a safe process for installing and operating an interlock kit, enabling you to enjoy an uninterrupted power supply from your generator while keeping you and your family safe. Always read the installation manual carefully and use appropriate safety equipment to avoid potential electrical hazards.

#manual generator interlock kit

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lewisreview · 3 years ago

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Champion 4000 Watt Inverter Generator

I am very happy with this purchase. I would like to point out that you should carefully consider your needs before going this route. I bought this particular generator because I wanted one that would connect directly to my existing home electrical system through the 240V outlet on the generator, in addition to the clean energy benefits of an inverter. I also wanted it to be quiet, or at least quieter than the conventional generator we had. This Champion replaces an old, noisy, inverter-less generator that I no longer trust with the increasing number of electronics in the house, including a new oven. There aren't many affordable 240V inverter generators like the Champion 6250. The only other large inverter generator I know of is the Honda EU7000iS, but it costs over $5,000 and is out of my price range. bottom line; There is no such thing as a quiet, powerful, low distortion, cheap generator, so you need to weigh your trade-offs carefully.

In particular, it is possible to buy two small inverter generators for about the same money and use a kit in parallel to combine them into a power source of about the same wattage. Those smaller closed units are quieter and lighter than the open frame unit, but they won't produce 240V; only 120V. In my case, I could live without the 240V capability if you're not using AC. But I wanted to use my existing wiring panel, interlock, headbox and L14-30 cable without modification. If you're willing to let an electrician make a few adjustments, you may be able to do the multi-unit trick. (UPDATE: It is highly unlikely that you can safely make such a change legally. If you are making multiple small units, you will need to install extension cords in your home. Multiple unit combinations seem to be designed for RVs).

1. The Champion website really helped me evaluate models and understand the features. I need a model with a floating neutral electrical system or that can be modified to work that way. I was able to easily find a clear description (with pictures) of the simple customization process required for this particular generator in the customer service section of the Champion website. (This information is surprisingly hard to find, or just not available, on the other brand's websites I checked.)

2. Amazon stated a delivery time of eight days, but it actually arrived within four days. The box packaging had many foam pads and cardboard panels to protect the entrails.

3. Assembly was easy and can be done by one person. The device costs more than 100 pounds. but it is very well balanced; Once it's out of the box it's easy to tilt it to the sides needed to access it to remove the shipping brackets and install the wheels. Once mounted, be careful not to tilt it up too far with the handle. After mounting I tilted it too far (60 degrees or more) and it reached its inflection point and abruptly went vertical. The hinged handle doesn't help with weight control once it gets to that point. But you should never tilt the generator that far because there is usually gasoline in the tank and it will spill.

4. There are some minor issues with the instructions, but nothing major. Overall, these are the best generator instructions I've ever had. The only important point is that the generator engine has a reusable foam air filter. The manual states that the filter needs to be lubricated, but does not mention this in the installation process. It's also not mentioned in the Quick Start Guide; only in the maintenance area. I didn't realize that until I did the first oil change at 5 am. (Next oil changes after this break-in period are after 50 hours.) So the generator ran without oil for the first 5 hours, which I don't think is a big deal, but I wish I had it.

5. About the first oil filling; Reading reviews from other buyers worried me about making a mess and I was much more careful than I normally am. The reference in the instruction to "37.2 ounces" led me to believe that exactly 37.2 ounces were needed. As I write this review, I see that the instructions actually say "add up to 37 fluid ounces (1.2 quarts) of oil." "Even" is not "exactly"! So don't try to do this exactly right or you'll make a mess! IMHO 36 oz. It's alright. Put a quart through the funnel. Then add more than 4 ounces, not guided by the small marks on the plastic oil bottle. Give the oil time to run out of the right and into the engine before working the hose out of the right; use paper towels and wait for a few drops. Check the oil level with the oil plug. It's okay if you're prepared. (I found drainage and second oil fill to be a bigger issue and will discuss later.)

6. Second-time engine started on the second engine start which is fine but I found the red "overload" light on and stayed on for about a minute which I thought was odd. Nothing was even connected to the Inverter generator. I was a bit panicked wondering if this was a normal initial boot condition or if I should turn it off. I read the manual and started reading the instructions and the red light went out I got to the right part first. I hope there will be later. This red light issue has not been released since the first boot and everything seems fine. During recent storage, the generator started fine and ran for about six hours without any problems.

7. It would be nice to have some extra advice on when and when not to use the ECO mode which shuts off the motor when the electrical load is small. Why don't I always leave it on? I can see how some people, used to constant noise from a traditional generator, can get caught up in the variation in the pitch of the engine as it accelerates open and down. But I don't know when and how often it will happen. It meant I was testing the Inverter generator when the refrigerator compressor kicked in, but it worked fine. Can a large load on the engine stop in ECO mode or is the disadvantage of ECO only the nuisance of noise variation? I did not use the ECO mode during the recent save and cannot use the view on the functions in an emergency.

8. Read all “NOTICES” on pages 19 and 20 of the instructions; especially this one: "For resetting warm engine gasoline in warm ambient temperatures >86°F (30°C), hold the choke in the "CHOKE" position for only 1 pull of the recoil starter. After the first pull, push the choke to the "RUN" position for 3 more recoil starter pulls "I've never heard of restarting a warm engine on a hot day with the choke on! This used to be big no- No. Perhaps things have changed in the ten years since I last bought a small motorcycle. had some trouble restarting until I used the choke exactly for a jerk. I don't understand, but gently careful.

9. At the end of the running-in period, I drained and changed the oil. Look at the picture on page 24 which shows what looks like a rectangular cake pan as a drain pan. Instead, I used a regular five-quart round oil pan. You should have learned from the "choke" experience that these instructions should be taken literally! A small, shallow skillet, big enough for about 1.5 liters, would be best. The included drain hose attached to the motor makes a good attempt at keeping the drips in check, but I managed to submerge the hose in oil using a regular-sized pan. The hose cap with its little chain is nice, but once submerged, it's impossible to clean enough to keep it from leaking. . I thought I had kept everything low enough to drain the engine completely, but I only got about a liter of the engine (vs 1.2). I don't know if this is because some oil was burned, the engine was drained cold, or if this is a normal amount. (Next time I'll use a smaller pan and lift the generator a few inches to make sure I get all the old oil and see how much comes out with a hot engine.)

Overall I feel like I made a very good purchase. Note that the generator is different from conventional units, so you may need to learn some new tricks, like this old dog. Don't leave it in the box until the next big storm; Give it a try and get some experience even if you are familiar with generators.

#champion #Champion 4000 Watt Inverter Generator #Generator #Inverter Generator

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kuhlmanelectrical · 5 years ago

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Generator Panel vs. Interlock Kit

Manual Generator Panel VS Manual Interlock kit

So you have decided to use a portable generator for emergency power, but confused by the options to connect it to your house? Believe me you are not alone! There are two main options, one being a manual generator panel and the other an interlock kit that ties into your existing panel. There are a number of things to consider when picking between these two options, so

let’s dive in!

The manual generator panel option

This panel of 6-10 circuits (or more) will tie into your existing electrical panel. You will choose the circuits you want to power while on generator power. When power is out, you start your generator up and simply flick the switches on this panel to GEN and off you go!

One reason we really love this option is we have more control over the things your generator will power. With this option, you are less likely to overpower the generator.

This customer planned to only power a few circuits under generator power, but still wanted the future flexibility of powering additional ones if he upgrades his generator. We went with the 10 circuit panel which is by far the most common size we install.

The manual interlock transfer switch option

An interlock transfer switch is mounted in your existing electrical panel. When power goes out you will turn OFF the circuit breakers that your generator cannot support. Things like your electric range, electric dryer, A/C, electric water heater etc. At this point you can start up your generator, turn OFF your main circuit breaker, and turn ON your generator breaker. Once those steps are taken, your entire panel is being powered off your generator.

If you feel capable of managing your own loads, then this is a great option. It’s critical you turn OFF those heavy loads though, before powering the generator up. Otherwise you will over power the generator.

How does the generator tie into the manual transfer system?

With either option, you will be given a male outlet sized to your system. Most commonly a 30amp outlet. This can be installed in your basement at the panel / generator, or more conveniently outside where the generator will sit.

From your generator you will have a heavy duty cord (again rated for the load) which will connect the generator to the male outlet. These cords come in all kinds of different lengths and can get fairly pricey once you get to 40’ and above.

My recommendation is to ALWAYS install the generator outlet outside in the vicinity of where the generator will sit. Yes it does cost a little bit extra to install this outlet, but you will save money on a long cord. Plus it makes for a way cleaner installation. Imagine running the generator cord through a window or leaving a door open a crack to feed the outlet inside?

So which one is the one for me? Let’s look at the pros and cons of each

Generator Panel Pros:

Load management is minimal. The electrician is working that out with you during installation and setting you up for an easy to use system.

No issue using a very small generator. In this case, you will only select the circuits it can power.

Generator Panel Cons:

If you add any new circuits to your panel and you want them on generator power, you will need to connect them to the generator panel. If all of your generator panel spots are used, a larger panel is the only option to accommodate the new circuits.

Cost. The generator panel is on average a few hundred dollars more than an interlock kit.

Interlock kit pros:

Total flexibility, power the loads you want (within reason!) and turn off the ones your generator can’t

If you add new circuits to your electrical panel, they can powered by the generator without changing anything.

Cheaper! It’s a less expensive product and generally a quicker install then the generator panel

Interlock kit cons:

Customer needs to manage the loads themselves. Again this is critical for it to work correctly.

Need to have a decent size generator powering it. I wouldn’t use this option with a 2,000watt generator for example.

If you have an older panel, there may not be an interlock kit available for it.

If your panel lacks a main breaker, one will need to be added for this system to work.

I’m a huge fan of the interlock kit with customers who can manage their loads and have selected a good size generator. Good size to me means a 6000-7500 watt running generator for most homes. If you can’t handle managing the loads yourself, then the generator panel is a no brainer.

How about picking out a portable generator?

There are a few things to consider:

Propane or gas, or both? We are a huge fan of the combo units as propane burns much cleaner and the generator will probably last many more years with fewer problems if propane is used. Plus you don’t need to store any gas on site! If you ever run low on propane or don’t have access to it, you can always fall back on gas. I really love this flexibility.

Size.Generators are rated in watts (W). The higher the wattage the more power they can deliver. If you are looking to power your heating system, frig and some lighting going as small as a 4000 watt unit is perfectly fine. If you want to power your microwave, washing machine, window AC and more, then a 7500-8000 watt unit is ideal. If you want to power even more things such as a dryer, electric water heater, then going to a 10,000 watt + unit may be needed.

Most of our customers go with 6000-7500 watt units; this seems to be the perfect size for most homes. It allows you to power a good portion of your home, while staying in an affordable range. Keep in mind that with some careful planning, powering some of the higher wattage appliances could be possible with a generator in this range. An electric dryer for example may draw ~ 5,000 watts. If no other heavy loads are being used while running the dryer a 7,500 watt unit will work just fine. That’s just one example that could be applied to other electrical loads of similar size.

#electrician #home renovations #installation #sparkylife

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jodybouchard9 · 5 years ago

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How to Install Vinyl Siding—the Home Exterior That’s Hot Again

Dmitry Kalinovsky/iStock

Vinyl siding has long been popular as a home exterior covering—it’s used in one-quarter of new single-family homes being built today. Yes, some deride it as tacky or passé. Comedians have used it for years as a punchline. But here’s the reality: Siding made of vinyl is relatively cheap, lasts for decades, looks way better than you might have thought, and offers homeowners a 78% return on investment if they ever decide to sell.

Even better, installing new siding or replacing old siding is so simple, it’s perfect for do-it-yourselfers! Most siding kits include an installation manual, and the installation process is pretty similar across brands. So if you want to go the DIY route and install vinyl siding, here’s how to do so.

Vinyl siding parts you’ll need to know

These siding installation systems generally include several key parts that fit together to cover the exterior of your home:

Corner trim posts. You install these trim posts to run vertically up the outside corners of your home and meet the horizontal edges of the vinyl siding panels.

Fascia. You can install decorative trim panel on the eaves and on the rake (the sloped sides of a gable end).

Flashing. Installing flashing at the top of windows and doors keeps them from leaking.

Window trim. Install this trim around windows for decorative purposes.

J-channels. Install J-channels around windows and doors to cover the edges of the vinyl siding and leave room for expansion.

Siding starter strips. Use nails to install siding starter strips on the surface of the home through the nailing slots at the bottom of the wall, to hook the first row of siding.

Vinyl siding panels. These panels form the outermost visible cladding layer and interlock with each other vertically and overlap horizontally.

The best vinyl siding to install

There are two major types of vinyl siding: hollow back siding and solid core siding, which has built-in insulation that can increase the energy efficiency of your home. In addition to these siding categories, there are a wide variety of siding colors and finishes, from smooth to a grain that mimics wood siding, imitation shakes and shingles, and even imitation log cabin.

Whichever style you choose to install, Donald McKenna of McKenna Exteriors recommends getting vinyl siding with a thickness of at least 0.46 millimeter and a double-thick nailing hem. It’s stronger and can better withstand the side-to-side motion the vinyl makes as it contracts and expands with the weather.

Work with your local home improvement store or vinyl siding retailer to determine how much of the materials you’ll need for installation, based on the height and width of the walls of your home. You will also need nails; be sure to use galvanized roofing nails to avoid rust that may later discolor the siding.

How to measure and cut vinyl siding

Before you start installation, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to measure and mark your home’s exterior where the starter strips and siding panels will lie. Be sure to use a level to make sure your marks aren’t slanted (which will be easy to notice with those long horizontal lines). Start from bottom to top, and go from the back of the house to the front. Once you’ve measured where the panels will attach to your home, measure your corner posts, fascia, flashing, and J-channels for the edges of the walls to be sided—the outside corners, along the roofline, around windows and doors—cutting them to fit with a circular saw, tin snips, or whatever equipment the manufacturer recommends.

Attach the framework first

Following the marks and measurements you made earlier, attach the starter strips to the house. Nail them in place through the prepunched holes.

It’s important to remember, according to McKenna, that vinyl siding is “hung, rather than tightly affixed to the house.” So don’t drive the heads of your nails in too tight! The reason: The siding needs room to contract and expand with changes in temperature and humidity.

The Vinyl Siding Institute, the trade organization that provides guidelines for vinyl siding manufacturers, recommends allowing approximately 1/32-inch of clearance between the head of the nail and the siding components, about the thickness of a dime.

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How to install vinyl siding panels

Cut the siding panels to fit between the corner posts, fascia, flashing, and J-channels—while noting that you’ll want a small gap between the panels and the other components to give the vinyl room to expand with changing temperatures (the Vinyl Siding Institute recommends leaving a quarter-inch gap).

And since vinyl can also contract, make sure that where the panels overlap, they do so by about a quarter-inch to ensure the underlying surface of your home isn’t exposed when the vinyl contracts. Next, snap the panels into the starter strips, starting from bottom to top. Each panel will snap into the panel below it, as well as the starter strip above.

Installing siding is a little like building with Legos—no nails or screws necessary! It won’t be long before you have a budget-friendly, long-lasting new exterior for your home.

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The post How to Install Vinyl Siding—the Home Exterior That’s Hot Again appeared first on Real Estate News & Insights | realtor.com®.

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nicencheapvarietystore · 6 years ago

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#nicencheapvarietystore Features 2-stroke 55cc petrol motor Portable – No pipes and generators needed Lightweight – only 11kg Up to 75mm diameter Rubber gripped handles Vibration absorbing springs Interlocking controls with throttle adjustor 2 x piling socket sleeve Hardened hammer pin Easy recoil starter Lightweight design Bonus hard carry case Specifications Motor: 2-stroke petrol Displacement: 55cc Max power/speed: 1.2hp / 6500rpm Max torque / speed: 1.76N.m / 5500rpm Impact frequency: 1500-2000bpm Fuel capacity: 0.75L Fuel type: Unleaded 95+ RON Oil capacity: 0.12L Starting system: Recoil Piling sleeves: 20-45mm and 45-80mm Package Content 1 x 2-Stroke Post Driver 1 x Hard Carry Case 1 x 20-45mm Piling sleeve 1 x 80mm Driver Sleeve 1 x Tool kit 1 x Fuel Bottle 1 x Spare Spark Plug 1 x Grease tube 1 x User Manual www.nicencheap.com.au https://www.instagram.com/p/BvOVutCgqSY/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1s1she45rtd7

#nicencheapvarietystore

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interlockkit · 4 years ago

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Why Should You Have An Interlock Kit For Your Commercial Power Generators?

The interlock kit is an affordable best quality alternative to transfer switches and generator sub-panels. An electrician can help you mount the Kit to your existing electrical panel. Having the kit installed, It is easy to safely and conveniently power household systems and devices through your electrical system. The Interlock Kit is simple and ingenious, easy to fit into a mechanical Interlock that acts as a manual transfer switch so that the utility and generator breakers never run at the same time. The interlock kit functions in such a that the two systems are isolated, so that power from the generator will never back feed into utility lines, and vice-versa. So your generator, your electrical system is safe and you can be sure that the utility worker stays safe while repairing a nearby line.

We offer interlock Kits to replace manual transfer switches for most of the brands of electrical panels including:

Siemens

Feed-Thru Panels

Challenger

Bryant

Murray

Square D

Thomas & Betts

ITE

Westinghouse

Cutler-Hammer

Crouse-Hinds

General Electric (GE)

Our Interlock Kits are built with supreme quality standards to ensure customers, trust, quality, safety, and effectiveness of our kits. We also adhere to meeting the strict requirements of the National Electrical Code (NEC) and the National Fire Protection Code and are tested and certified by MET Laboratories, a leading independent electrical testing and certification lab. Our kits are made in the USA out of high-quality stainless steel to ensure that they won’t break or bend and are highly durable. If you want to get better use out of your portable generators, large commercial generators, to install a transfer switch – contact us about our Interlock Kits, to place an order or learn more, follow the link here, http://www.interlockkit.com/

#generatorextensioncord #commercialpowergenerators #Bryantbreakerreplacement #challengerpanelbreaker #30ampgeneratorpowercord #generatorpowercord #powerbackelectricgenerator #30AmpConvenienceInletBox

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pressurewashersconnect · 6 years ago

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murray parts lookup denver

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sloan01 · 7 years ago

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mtd mower parts lookup denver – Video Review- Expert Review Guide

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See The Video on You Tube: https://youtu.be/fAoqtXp5z4s

from Expert Review Guide: https://expertreviewguideweb.wordpress.com/2018/02/27/mtd-mower-parts-lookup-denver-video-review/

#mtd mower parts lookup denver – Video Review

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bobsweeppethairroboticuniverse · 7 years ago

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DIY Perimeter Wire Generator and Sensor

Background

Wire guidance technology is widely used in the industry, particularly, in warehouses where handling is automated. The robots follow a wire loop buried in the ground. An alternating current of relatively low intensity and frequency between 5Kz and 40KHz flows in this wire. The robot is equipped with inductive sensors, usually based on a tank circuit (with a resonance frequency equal or close to the frequency of the generated wave) that measures the intensity of the electromagnetic field close to the ground. A processing chain (amplification, filters, comparison) makes it possible to determine the position of the robot within to the wire.

These days, perimeter/boundary wire is also used to create “invisible fences” to keep pets within yards, and robot lawn mowers within zones. LEGO also uses the same principle to guide vehicles along roads without visitors seeing any lines. For example, here is a video of the Robomow RS630 in action :

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This tutorial explains in an easy and intuitive way to help you understand the theory, design, and implementation to make your own generator and sensor for a perimeter wire. The files (Schematics, Eagle Files, Gerbers, 3D Files and Arduino Sample Code) are also available for download. This way, you can add the wire perimeter detection feature to your favorite robot and keep it within an operating “zone”. How cool is that!

Generator

Theory

The perimeter wire generator circuit will be based on the famous NE555 timer. NE555 or more commonly called 555 is an integrated circuit used for timer or multivibrator mode. This component is still used today because of its ease of use, low cost, and stability. One billion units are manufactured per year. For our generator, we will use the NE555 in Astable configuration. The stable configuration allows using the NE555 as an oscillator. Two resistors and a capacitor make it possible to modify the oscillation frequency as well as the duty cycle. The arrangement of the components is as shown in the schematic below.

The NE555 Generates a (rough) square wave which can run the length of the perimeter wire. Referring to the NE555 datasheet for the timer, there is a sample circuit, as well as the theory of operation (8.3.2 A-stable operation). Texas Instruments is not the only manufacturer of NE555 ICs, so should you choose another chip, be sure to check its manual.

We do offer this nice 555 Timer Soldering Kit that will give you the opportunity to solder all the internal components of a 555 timer in a through hole package to allow you to understand the operation of this circuit in detail.

Schematic and Prototyping

The schematic provided in the NE555 manual (8.3.2 A-stable operation section) is fairly complete. A few additional components were added and discussed below.

NE555 Circuit for A-stable Operation

The formula used to calculate the frequency of the output square wave is :

f = 1.44 / ((Ra+2*Rb)*C) (1)

The frequency range of the generated square wave will be between 32Khz and 44KHz which is a specific frequency that shouldn’t interfere with other close devices. For this, we have chosen Ra = 3.3KOhms, Rb = 12KOhms + 4.7KOhms Potentiometer and C = 1.2nF.

The potentiometer will help us vary the frequency of the square wave output to match the resonance frequency of the LC Tank circuit that will be discussed later on. The theoretical lowest and highest value of the output frequency will be as follows calculated by the formula (1) :

Lowest frequency value : fL = 1.44 / ((3.3+2*(12+0))*1.2*10^(-9)) ≈ 32 698Hz

Highest frequency value : fH = 1.44 / ((3.3+2*(12+4.7))*1.2*10^(-9)) ≈ 43 956Hz

Since that the 4.7KOhms potentiometer never gets to 0 or 4.7, the output frequency range will vary from around 33.5Khz to 39Khz.

Here is the complete schematic of the generator circuit :

Eagle Generator Schematic

As you can see in the schematic, few additional components were added and will be discussed below. Here is the complete BOM :

R1 (Ra) : 3.3 KOhms

R2 (Rb1) : 12 KOhms

R3 (Current limiting resistor): 47 Ohms (needs to be fairly large to dissipate heat with a 2W power rating should be enough)

R4 (Rb2) : 4.7 KOhm potentiometer

C1 (C) : 1.2nF

C2 (0.01uF) : 0.01uF

C3 (Decoupling / Note A) : 100nF

C4 (Filtering) : 1uF

J1: 2.5mm center positive barrel connector (5-15V DC)

12 : Screw terminal (two positions)

IC1: NE555 Precision Timer

Additional parts added to the schematic includes A barrel jack (J1) for easy connection to a wall adapter (12V) and a screw terminal (12) to conveniently connect to the perimeter wire.

Perimeter Wire: Note that the longer the perimeter wire, the more the signal degrades. We tested the setup with roughly 100′ of 22 gauge multi-strand wire (pegged into the ground as opposed to buried).

Power Supply: A 12V wall adapter is incredibly common, and any current rating above 500mA should work well. You can also choose a 12V lead acid or 11.1V LiPo to keep it within the case, but be sure to weatherproof it and turn it off when not in use.

Here some parts we offer that you might need when building the generator circuit :

2.1mm Barrel Jack to terminal or this 2.1mm Barrel Jack Adapter – Breadboard Compatible

400 Tie Point Interlocking Transparent Solderless Breadboard

65 x 22 Gauge Assorted Jumper Wires

DFRobot Resistor Kit

SparkFun Capacitor Kit

12VDC 3A Wall Adapter Power Supply

Here is what the generator circuit should look like on a breadboard :

Fritzing Generator Breadboard

Results

As shown in the below oscilloscope screenshot of the output of the generator circuit (taken with the Micsig 200 MHz 1 GS/s 4 Channels Tablet Oscilloscope), we can see a (rough) square wave with a frequency of 36.41KHz and an amplitude of 11.8V (using a 12V power adapter). The frequency can be varied slightly by adjusting the R4 potentiometer.

Generator Square Wave Output

A solderless breadboard is rarely ever a long-term solution and is best used to create a quick prototype. Therefore, after confirming that the generator circuit is working as it should, generating a square wave with a frequency range 33.5Khz and 40KHz (variable through the R4 pot), we have designed a PCB (24mmx34mm) only with PTH (Plated-through Hole) components to make it a nice small square wave generator board. Since through-hole components were used for prototyping with a breadboard, the PCB could also use through-hole components as well (instead of surface mount), and allows for easy soldering by hand. Placement of the components is not exact, and you can likely find room for improvement. We have made the Eagle and Gerber files available for download so that you can make your own PCB. Files can be found in the “Files” section at the end of this article.

Here is some tips when designing your own board :

Have the barrel connector and screw terminal on the same side of the board

Place the components relatively close to each other and minimize traces/lengths

Have the mounting holes be a standard diameter, and located in an easy to reproduce rectangle.

Generator Board Eagle

Generator Board 3D

Generator Board

Wire Installation

So how to install the wire? Rather than burying it, it’s easiest to simply use pegs to keep it in place. You’re free to use whatever you want to keep the wire in place, but plastic works best. A pack of 50 pegs used for robot lawn mowers tends to be inexpensive. When laying the wire, be sure to have both ends meet at the same location to connect to the generator board through the screw terminal.

Perimeter Wire Installation 1

Perimeter Wire Installation 2

Perimeter Wire Installation 3

Generator Setup

Weather Resistance

Since the system will most likely be left outside to be used outdoors. The perimeter wire needs a weather resistant coating, and the generator circuit itself housed in a waterproof case. You can use this cool Enclosure to protect the generator from rain and these Waterproof DC Power Cable Set

Not all wire is created equal. If you plan to leave the wire out, be sure to invest in the correct wire, for example, this Robomow 300′ Perimeter Wire Shielding which is not UV / water resistant will degrade quickly over time and become brittle.

Sensor

Theory

Now that we have built the generator circuit and make sure that it is operating as it supposed, it is time to start thinking about how to detect the signal going through the wire. For this, we invite you to read about the LC Circuit, also called Tank Circuit or Tuned Circuit.

An LC circuit is an electrical circuit based on an Inductor/Coil (L) and a capacitor (C) connected in parallel. This circuit is used in filters, tuners, and frequency mixers. Consequently, it is commonly used in wireless broadcast transmissions for both broadcast and reception. We won’t go into the theoretical details regarding LC circuits, but the most important thing to keep in mind to understand the sensor circuit used in this article, would be the formula for calculating the resonance frequency of an LC circuit, which goes like :

f0 = 1/(2*π*√(L*C)) (2)

Where L is the inductance value of the coil in H (Henry) and C is the capacitance value of the capacitor in F (Farads).

For the sensor to detect the 34kHz-40Khz signal that runs into the wire, the tank circuit we used should have the resonance frequency in this range. We chose L = 1mH and C = 22nF to obtain a resonance frequency of 33932KHz calculated using the formula (2).

The amplitude of the signal detected by our tank circuit will be relatively small (a maximum of 80mV when we tested our sensor circuit) when the inductor is at about 10cm from the wire, therefore, it will need some amplification. To do so, we have used the popular LM324 Op-Amp amplifier to amplify the signal with a gain of 100 in a non-inverting configuration 2 stages amplification to make sure to obtain a nice readable analog signal at a greater distance than 10cm in the output of the sensor. This article provides useful information about Op-Amps in general. Also, you can have a look at the LM324’s datasheet.

Here is a typical circuit schematic of an LM324 amplifier :

Op-Amp in non-inverting configuration

Using the equation for a non-inverting gain configuration, Av = 1+R2/R1. Setting the R1 to 10KOhms and R2 to 1MOhms will provide a gain of 100, which is within the desired specification.

In order for the robot to be able to detect the perimeter wire in different orientations, it is more appropriate to have more than one sensor installed on it. The more sensors on the robot, the better it will detect the boundary wire.

For this tutorial, and since the LM324 is a quad-op amplifier (this means that one LM324 chip has 4 separate amplifiers), we will be using two detecting sensors on the board. This means using two LC circuits and each will have 2 stages of amplification. Therefore, just one LM324 chip is needed.

Schematic and Prototyping

As we discussed above, the schematic for the sensor board is pretty straight-forward. It is composed of 2 LC circuits, one LM324 chip and a couple of 10KOhms and 1MOhms resistors to set the gains of the amplifiers.

Eagle Sensor Schematic

Here is a list of the components that you can use :

R1, R3, R5, R7 : 10KOhm Resistors

R2, R4, R6, R8 : 1MOhm Resistors

C1, C2 : 22nF Capacitors

IC: LM324N amplifier

JP3 / JP4: 2.54mm 3-pin M/M headers

Inductors 1, 2 : 1mH*

* 1mH Inductors with a current rating of 420mA and a Q factor of 40 @ 252kHz should work well. We have added screw terminals as inductor leads to the schematic in order for the inductors ( with leads soldered to wires) to be placed at convenient locations on the robot. Then, the wires (of the inductors) will be connected to the screw terminals.

Out1 and Out2 pins could be directly connected to a microcontroller’s analog input pins. For example, you could use an Arduino UNO Board or, better, a BotBoarduino Controller for a more convenient connection as it has analog pins broken-out into a row of 3 pins (Signal, VCC, GND) and it is also Arduino compatible. The LM324 chip will be powered through the microcontroller’s 5V, therefore, the analog signal (detected wave) from the sensor board will vary between 0V and 5V depending on the distance between the inductor and the perimeter wire. The closer the inductor is to the perimeter wire, higher the amplitude of the sensor circuit output wave.

Here is what the sensor circuit should look like on a breadboard :

Fritzing Sensor Breadboard

Results

As we can see in the oscilloscope’s screenshots below, the detected wave at the output of the LC circuit is amplified and saturates at 5V when the inductor is at 15cm to the perimeter wire :

Tank Circuit Output (Inductor @ 15cm of wire)

Sensor Circuit Output After Amplification (Inductor @ 15cm of wire)

Same as we did with the generator circuit, we have designed a nice compact PCB with through-hole components for the sensor board with two tank circuits, an amplifier, and 2 analog outputs. Files can be found in the “Files” section at the end of this article.

Sensor Board Eagle

Sensor Board 3D

Sensor Board

Obtaining an optimal detection of the perimeter wire with the inductors of the sensor circuit will depend on how the inductors are placed into the robot. If you use a through hole radial inductor like we did, the inductor’s axis should be perpendicular to the perimeter wire as below :

Perimeter Wire Detection

Arduino Code

The Arduino code that you could use for your perimeter wire generator and the sensor is very simple. As the output of the sensor board is two analog signals varying from 0V to 5V (one for each sensor/inductor), the AnalogRead Arduino example can be used. Just connect the two output pins of the sensor board to two analog input pins and read the appropriate pin by modifying the Arduino AnalogRead Example. Using the Arduino serial monitor, you should see a RAW value of the analog pin you are using vary from 0 to 1024 as you approach the inductor to the perimeter wire.

Arduino Analog Read

If you are using the wire perimeter generator and sensor into a robot, you can set a threshold (that will correspond to a distance between the inductor and the perimeter wire) for the robot to get back or turn as soon as this threshold is reached. This way, the robot will keep moving within the delimited zone. So again, how cool is that!

Files

The Eagle, Gerbers, Fritzing and 3D Step files of the Perimeter Wire Generator and Sensor can be downloaded through this link.

We would be happy to hear about your project on the RobotShop’s forum. Also, feel free to share your version of the Perimeter Wire Generator and Sensor in the comments section.