#makes me wonder if he likes other “controversial” food favorites. does he like the buttered popcorn jellybeans

[mlgmi316]

licorice is of those things where you either love it or hate it.

[ravishankarsivasubramaniam]

Longreads Best of 2019: Food Writing

We asked writers and editors to choose some of their favorite stories of the year in various categories. Here is the best in food writing.

Mayukh Sen James Beard Award-winning writer and Adjunct Professor at New York University’s Arthur L. Carter Journalism Institute

The Chef Who Can Teach Us a Thing or Two About Grit (Julia Bainbridge, Heated)

I tend to agree with most criticisms of using the first-person in profiles: Who cares about the writer? Why the throat-clearing about yourself? Who asked about you when I’m just trying to read about Rihanna? It takes a writer of real skill, and very little vanity, to pull off this first-person trick. I marvel at the way Julia Bainbridge gently, unobtrusively inserts herself into this Heated profile of chef Iliana Regan. In doing so, Bainbridge allows the reader to understand the subject in fuller, more generous terms.

There is a current of melancholy that runs through Bainbridge’s piece, pegged to the release of Regan’s National Book Award-longlisted memoir, Burn the Place; you get the sense that the writer understands her subject intimately. (I should note that Regan’s memoir inspired a number of very fine pieces, including those by Deborah Reid and Helen Rosner. Read those, too.) Certain details — the nervous tug of a sweater, the smell of cigarette smoke and beer wafting from a bar — could’ve read like strained flourishes in a lesser writer’s hands, but Bainbridge uses these observations sparingly, bringing Regan to life. She works carefully, sentence by sentence, with some turns of phrase that stop me dead in my tracks. “The alcohol is gone,” Bainbridge writes at one point, “but the -ism remains.” Bainbridge shows that the first-person, when deployed correctly, can showcase a profile writer’s empathy, not their ego.

Alexa van Sickle Writer, senior editor, Roads and Kingdoms

Death, Migration and the Loss of Culture (Janelle Bitker, San Francisco Chronicle)

There is no shortage of food writing that illuminates the many ways we keep ties to the food of our families and cultures. Often, stories come with an assist from older relatives who serve as the custodians of recipes for future generations to discover and preserve. But as Janelle Bitker explores in this personal essay, what if that’s not your family’s story? What if, through migration or other ways, we lose “our” recipes?

Framed by a visit to her Chinese grandparents’ grave in Fremont, California, Bitker traces how her own family’s food traditions have faded, in some cases after a single generation. Bitker’s family has broad cultural roots: Hakka Chinese, Hong Kong, Russia, the American South, the Bay Area. Her maternal grandparents fell in love in Hong Kong but ended up in San Leandro. Bitker didn’t grow up eating Hakka or Hong Kong cuisine, and her mother, who has lived longer in the U.S. than in Hong Kong, only cooks one Hakka dish. Bitker feels an even bigger cultural loss on her father’s side. Her grandfather was Russian and Jewish but born in Japan. The war brought his family to Shanghai, China — which at the time was one of the safest places for Jews, until it wasn’t — and eventually her grandfather got stranded in the Philippines as a prisoner of war, after he tried to flee to the U.S. Her father remembers piroshkis and beef Stroganoff on his table when he was growing up, but those dishes didn’t make their way to Bitker.

She wonders, “How many generations does it take to become another culturally ambiguous American family? Is migration the death of traditions?” Of course, the answer is that it’s quite the opposite: We create our own new ones. But in tracing her remarkable family history, this piece also shows that there are plenty of stories to tell about how we lose food traditions, not just about how we preserve them.

Gustavo Arellano Los Angeles Times features writer, author of ¡Ask a Mexican! and Taco USA

The Paleta War (Serena Maria Daniels, Eater)

Over the past 15 years, Mexicans across the United States have looked on in quizzical pride as ice cream shops under the name “La Michoacana” (“The Woman from Michoacán”) or variants sprung up wherever Mexicans were — the Southwest and big cities, yes, but also Omaha, Des Moines, and even Bethlehem (okay, Belen, New Mexico). The La Michoacana brand is the Baskin-Robbins of Mexico — but almost all of the American stores that use the name are independently run shops that have nothing to do with the decades-old Mexican company. So how did La Michoacanas become so ubiquitous in el Norte, and so quickly? Tostada Magazine editor Serena Maria Daniels tells a fabulous story that involves lawsuits, immigration, and history, and that will make you want to spread chile-mango ice cream across your keyboard afterward.

Helen Rosner Writer, The New Yorker food correspondent

Toward a Theory of American Festival Cusine (Meghan McCarron, photos by Gary He, Eater)

The amazing team of writer Meghan McCarron and photographer Gary He have been killing the Presidential Candidate Foodstuff beat this year. Despite the differences in their respective mediums, they share a distinct and tremendously exciting style: sharp-edged, slightly removed, warmly analytical, with an almost formalist sense of romance. Of the many pieces that came out of their time together at the Iowa State Fair (including the riotous “Why We Never Tire of Politicians Stuffing Their Faces”), my favorite was McCarron’s clever assessment of the mobile fried food economy, and the slippery notion of “real America,” deepened and made more golden with He’s almost surreal photos of funnel cake and turkey legs.

The Great Regression (Jon Bonné, Taste)

I love it — I LOVE IT — when great writers apply their critical lens to restaurants as cultural phenomena, rather than just talking about them as places where the food is good or bad and the prices are low or high. In this scathing, beautifully written piece, Bonné dissects the mini-trend, at the high end, of restaurants that more or less cosplay a mid-century notion of masculinity. He makes the case that the mahogany prime rib carts and sleek martini services and all that jazz are just dazzle camouflage for a truly distasteful core of retrograde and exclusionary values — white male fragility, restaurant edition: “Keep your Noma sensibilities and edible flowers,” he writes, explaining these restaurants’ sales pitch. “Stick them into the part of a cow not served on a silver trolley, and let us dine in a time before tofu and Title IX.”

Tove Danovich Freelance food and agriculture journalist

Competitive Oyster Shucking Is Real, Decadent, And China’s Best Party (Noelle Mateer, Deadspin)

I fell in love with food writing when I learned that to write about food is to write about anything. Food is wrapped up in personal memory and heritage, politics and history. Noelle Mateer’s piece for Deadspin proves why readers would be bereft if food writing were restricted to recipes and graded restaurant reviews. (It would be as sad as if sports writing decided it was better off “sticking to sports.”) This story reeled me in right away with an image of 60 people shucking oysters on the Great Wall of China. How oysters, which filter impurities from the water, came to be served raw in China, and who can afford to eat them, are a few of the pearls of this story.

Who’s Considered Thin Enough for Eating Disorder Treatment? (Virginia Sole-Smith, Elemental)

When I talked about this story with a friend, his first question threw me off: “What is an eating disorder exactly?” But the question of what an eating disorder is — and not what someone with an eating disorder looks like — is the heart of this overdue story by Virginia Sole-Smith. Insurance companies and doctors often use low weight as a benchmark for diagnosing and treating eating disorders, even when anyone who dangerously restricts food intake is at risk of physiological complications. This article shows a particularly harmful example of how diet culture has made it seem acceptable to starve yourself—as long as you’re big. Sole-Smith’s deftly handled reporting and writing on this immensely complicated subject makes for one of the most memorable pieces I’ve read this year.

Michael W. Twitty Writer, culinary historian, educator, author of James Beard Award-winning book The Cooking Gene

Le Colonial Is an Orientalist Specter (Soleil Ho, San Francisco Chronicle)

The image of the food critic as a stodgy white man or woman with resting jerk face here to maintain the Eurocentric status quo came to a stunning halt with Soleil Ho’s review of the Vietnamese restaurant, Le Colonial. Soleil, an accomplished and controversial, smart-dressing intellectual whose interests extend into food, visual art, writing, and cultural critique, challenged the restaurant’s proprietors beyond food. As a Vietnamese American and self-described queer woman, she challenged the French colonial decor, the yearning for colonial-era nostalgia in light of what those signifiers mean to a descendant of the colonized, as well as to those uninitiated in the socio-political world of Southeast Asia. Without losing the disciplined gaze of a food critic, this review put face forward to the reader ideas about culinary justice equal to questions about plating, taste, and concept. Would you want to eat in a space that reflected and honored the path to an unshakable trauma in the history of your family or peoplehood? In a time when diners are thinking about the “position” and packaging of their food, Ho modeled, in the hottest days of the culture wars, the fine line between concept and convenient stereotypes that unwittingly create a divide even before we dine.

Gwendolyn Knapp Writer, memoirist, assistant editor Houstonia

The Grill That Gave ‘90 Kids Their Kitchen Training Wheels (Aaron Goldfarb, Taste)

In the late ’90s and early aughts, my father broke out the George Foreman Grill every evening, placing several slices of fluffy, buttered (well, margarined) Publix bakery French bread on the grill, and held the lid down for a good minute. He loved to have these little flattened, greasy pieces of toast with dinner. That’s pretty much all he used his George Foreman for until the device faded into retirement in the garage, along with his kayak and 17 awful, outdated printers before it. Aaron Goldfarb’s ode to the George Foreman sent me back to the flattened-toast era and gave me a good chuckle, which is necessary in these trying times. Also, it’s wild to think that the contraption is the second-most purchased home appliance of all time. The George Foreman was advertised for its ability to drain fat from food; meat grease would slide off it into a little vat. But how many other garages are now burdened with these vessels?

* * *

Read all the categories in our Best of 2019 year-end collection.

[humongousruinsinternet-blog]

Americanised Within the United States

Americanised In the United States

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I added a video to a @YouTube playlist http://youtu.be/rGeLYYL8euo?a FOX AND THE HOUND 2 ANGER REVIEW

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[surveysonfleek]

401.

5000 Question Survey Pt. 12

1101. Continued…Let's see if I'm psychic. You wrote three yes or no questions. Now I will answer them. 1 yes 2 no 3 no Did I get any right? not really since they’re all questions about the future. 1102. You wrote one question that can be answered with a color (example: what color is my car). I say.... White. Is it true? no, my hair is not white. 1103. You thought of a number between 1 and 100 and typed it down. Was it 14? nope. 1104. You wrote one more question, anything you wanted. The answer is yes, 42, orange, Matt, Josh, Kim, Nicole, whatever or your mom. Does that answer your question? no. 1105. Do you think that Britney Spears would make a good Bond Girl? not anymore.

1106. Have you read anything by C.S. Lewis? nope. 1107. What is your favorite movie with Bill Murray? charlie’s angels. 1108. What is your favorite movie with Jack Nicholson? i only know of one. 1109. What is your favorite movie with Christopher Walkin? no idea. 1110. What is your favorite movie with Johnny Depp? what’s eating gilbert’s grape. 1111. What is your favorite movie with Orlando Bloom? elizabethtown. 1112. What rhymes with 'orange'? nothing. 1113. Why do guys have nipples if they will never need to feed a baby? no idea. 1114. Some people think that couples should be screened before they are allowed to reproduce (so that people who cannot afford to support a child don’t have one, or so that a child won’t be born into a dysfunction family or to unfit parents). What do you think about this? it’s kinda bullshit. a lot of people could fake these sorts of tests, parents who might not be able to afford a lot of things could also be way better parents than rich folk. 1115. Have you ever swallowed an object by accident? nope. 1116. Did you get it back? - 1117. Do you prefer He-Man or She-Ra? - 1118. Are you proud of yourself? not yet. 1119. Who should go to hell? anyone that supports terrorism. 1120. Is your eyesight 20/20? hell no. 1121. Have you ever had insomnia? yes. 1122. Does it bother you when people touch you? it depends who and where. 1123. Is it better to get too much or too little sleep? too much lol. 1124. Have you ever given away something you made? What? idk probably arts and crafts stuff we’ve made at school. 1125. Is it better to have kids when you are in your teens, 20s, 30s, 40s, or older? 20s or 30s. but it also depends if you’re ready. 1126. What gets your adrenaline pumping? risky decisions. 1127. Is hell all fire and brimstone or is it personal for everyone like in Bill and Ted's Bogus Journey? Or does it not exist? idk. 1128. Do you ever talk about yourself in the third person? no. 1129. What's your favorite radio station? What kind of music do they play? i hate the radio tbh. 1130. What did you think of these movies: Election? Gone With the Wind? Fight Club? Spider Man? good i guess. The Virgin Suicides? i remember liking this but i already forgot how it went. Resident Evil? Signs? everyone at school used to talk about this. Muppets from Space? Pearl Harbor? Halloween Resurrection? The Dark Crystal? 1131. Is everyone special? sure. 1132. Are your toes: Painted (what color)? Manicured? Sparkly? Soft? Wearing a toe ring? Do you have hobbit-feet? no to all. 1133. Do you believe there is anyplace still undiscovered in all the world? haha most definitely. 1134. Whose picture would you like to paint a target on and throw darts at? idk. trump. 1135. Is love all you need? not always. 1136. Ever caught a fish? yes! 1137. Are you adventurous? not really. 1138. Are you afraid of mediocrity? nope. 1139. Would you rather die tomorrow or have all your friends die? i’d rather die tomorrow. 1140. What are 3 things you don't understand? 1 why are people rude 2 why does my laptop seem to get worse every time i update it 3 why is it so hard to get a job when i’m over qualified 1141. I would do anything for love but I won't do 'that'. What is 'that'? idk. 1142. Has your diary ever been rated? i don’t think so? 1143. Do you do more than kiss on the first date? i personally haven’t. 1144. Are you very liberal or conservative? liberal. 1145. What do you like about your neighbors? most of them are quiet and keep to themselves. 1146. I read that by 2010 they expect to market a gene therapy procedure that will increase the life spans of adult human beings by double or triple. If this happened would you have it done? eh, probably not. 1147. If you're happy and you know it clap your hands. Did you clap? no. 1148. Was this year a good year for you? somewhat. 1149. What are you looking forward to next year? idk yet. i haven’t made plans. 1150. Are you a Jim Henson fan? not really. 1151. What do you think of these diarist names? ToxicToast: Solitary Music: gemini_wish_star: juneberry: haha idc. 1152. Do you read the Diary Master’s diary? no. 1153. Have you ever made an enemy on OD? no. 1154. Have you ever (or do you know anyone who’s) been deleted from OD? idk what that is. 1155. Were you ever in the first row of a concert? no. someday! 1156. Did you ever meet a celebrity? Who? most recently niall horan. 1157. Do you have any autographs? yes. 1158. Can you visualize whirled peas? yes. 1159. Are there some situations where love just isn't enough to keep 2 people together? When does that happen? if someone has to move away. 1160. Do you have no attention span? i do but it’s short. 1161. What do you think of these entry titles? me. back. home: steak and butter: yum. The Smurfs Go Communist: The controversial Athens: 1162. Have you ever been wrongly accused? yes. 1163. When you wash your hair do you blow dry it or let it dry naturally? i do both. 1164. Where does your family go on vacation? usually to the philippines. 1165. Have you ever been to: Newport, Rhode Island? driven past it. Dutch Wonderland? no. Salem, MA? also drove past it. Niagara Falls? yes. 1166. Have you ever given money to OD cares? no. 1167. Have you ever created an OD interest? If yes, what interests did you create? no. 1168. What do you think of these entry names? DEAR SOUL FRIEND 57 Loss: I had a good title but i forgot it: Left Alone: yeah yeah...he kissed her: cool. 1169. If you have aol what is your 'you've got mail' sound? lol i don’t. 1170. What will you never have enough of? food. 1171. Who can you only handle in small doses? my boyfriend’s family. 1172. You are at a magic auction where you can bid on impossible things but you only brought enough money to buy one thing. Out of these..which would you buy? entrance into whatever afterlife you believe in a guarantee that you will have at least 3 books published in your life a new car, house and boat each year unending creative inspiration ultimate compassion and acceptance of others a trip into outer space perfect health for the rest of your life 1173. In the above question if finding perfect love was a choice would you change your answer? umm probably not. 1174. What food is so fattening or unhealthy that you would NEVER touch it? i’d try everything once tbh. 1175. Which do you love more, your country or your planet? country. 1176. What do you think of: Abba? nothing really. iconic songs i guess. Brian Adams? he had some bops back in the 90s. No Doubt? they were ok. 1177. Are you more logical or emotional? logical. 1178. Do you think that tattoos and piercing are overrated? no, i just don’t care for them. 1179. What do you think of these diary titles? The Seamless Garment: Your eyes can be so cruel: What was, is no more: shock me sane: omg i don’t care about these. 1180. Do you believe that Michael Jackson molests children? i have no idea. i feel like he was just a child trapped in an adult’s body and found comfort in hanging out and making children happy. we’ll never really know. 1181. Hypothetically, let’s say that he did molest them. Who would you feel should be held MORE accountable, Michael Jackson or the parents that allowed their children to go to Never Land Ranch unsupervised for sleepovers? idk. both. 1182. Have you ever been to: Manhattan? yes. Disney? yes. Paris? yes. Anywhere cooler? they’re all cool. 1183. What 3 music videos should everyone download? none lol. just stream it. 1184. If someone bet you ten dollars that you couldn’t sing the whole Gummy Bears theme song, would you be able to do it and win? no. 1185. Do you like Bjork? no. 1186. How about the Black Rebel Motorcycle Club? no. 1187. What do you think of Moby? boring tbh lol. 1188. What do you think of Alien Ant Farm? one hit wonders tbh. 1189. What do you think of the Flaming Sideburns? idk them. 1190. Do you believe that imps, trolls, giants, dragons, unicorns, etc. were real but became extinct? nah. 1191. What sucks? life. 1192. What do you think of these diary titles? Geologist to the Stars: The Hussy Chronicles: Gravy: Napping in the Broom Closet: again, idc. 1193. Do you ever think about suicide? no. 1194. Do you believe that Jesus Christ was a real person? How about Noah? yes, it was already proven he actually existed. idk about noah. 1195. What is one luxury you refuse to live without? my phone. or a hot shower. 1196. What is one luxury you feel you could live without? a car. 1197. Do you feel that you are high, medium, or low maintenance in a relationship? medium. 1198. What do you think of these diarist names? N.Y.S: Collapsibleman: *})|({*: black dove: omg bye. 1199. Do vegetables taste better from the store or from your garden? idk i’ve never had any veggies from my garden. 1200. How long have you spent on this survey so far? idk haha.