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himbeaux-on-ice · 3 years ago

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KK deserves more than 6mil for 1 year and there is no way Habs CAN'T match that. It was so low I thought it was a joke of an offer as petty revenge for the Aho one. Literally had a $20 signing bonus tf. With both teams picking up racists this is good PR frankly to excite fans.

Sorry, I actually disagree pretty solidly with almost all of this, but the reasons are complex and lengthy to explain, so I’m going to put it all under a cut.

Listen, I personally believe based on what we’ve seen from him in the playoffs that KK can eventually develop into a $6.1 million dollar player — it seemed like he did well once the team had been put through Ducharme’s mini-training camp before the playoffs that actually allowed the chance to cement his systems, and put up good numbers generally during the run for someone his age. If they can find a way to get that kind of stuff out of him in the regular season, he could very well be worth $6.1 or more down the road. I really truly think he has it in him with the right coaching and the right work put in.

The problem is, owing possibly to how the Habs have chosen to develop him (remember, he came to the NHL pretty much straight out of the draft) and how very young he actually is, he has not yet actually PROVEN that he can be a player of that value consistently for most of a season at any point. I’m willing to put an asterisk on his struggles this year, because it was a weird fucking season and the Habs had a rough go of it in several points, especially down the stretch, and because we’ve seen the ability is there in the playoffs. But given what we’ve seen while he’s been on his ELC, there has been no guarantee so far that a team that signs him to $6.1 million is going to get $6.1 million in value out of him this coming season.

Like, set aside league-wide valuations for a second, and think about what the Habs, based on their budgeting and philosophy and management choices, are paying some of their top foundational players right now in terms of cap hit. Toffoli makes $4.5 million, so will Hoffman. Anderson makes $5.5 million, as does Drouin. Petry makes $6.2 million. Edmundson makes $3.5 million. Jake Allen, a player so valuable to this team that we risked “Price to Seattle” to keep him, is $2.87 million against the cap. Gally, the lifeblood heart and soul of this team who has given his literal blood sweat and tears to it for almost a decade, only makes $6.5 million against the cap. They apparently weren’t even willing to offer Phillip Danault, defensive cornerstone of the playoff run, the $5.5 million he got from LA. With Weber on the LTIR, if KK signed with the Habs at $6.1 million, he would be the third-highest paid player on the active team when you exclude dudes named Carey Price (who is an outlier and should not be counted). I love the kid. I think he’ll be a bonafide star someday. He has NOT earned that kind of payday yet, based on the established scale of how the Habs reward their players.

Based on my amateur understanding of NHL contracts and the market, a reasonable deal with KK from the Habs would have been somewhere in the area of $2-3 million (so, what they pay for players like Lehkonen (2.3 mil) or Byron (3.3 mil) or just signed Armia to (3.4 mil)), for maybe about 2 years. By the time that runs out, he’d be 23 years old and heading into the prime of his career, and you would probably have a better idea of whether he’s made that big next step or not — if he has, you probably just got two years of great hockey out of him at a STEAL, and can at that point sign him for a nice juicy contract that will pay him to that level and lock him up through his prime years (which is what you would dangle to entice him to take the short deal for now). And if when that short deal is up he hasn’t made that next leap, then you either sign him back at what he is worth, or if that’s an impasse, part ways. He has said he wants to help bring a Cup to Montreal, and do it with the core of young guys they’re assembling (and close friends like the other Finns on the team) — with that, maybe some performance bonuses if he really kills it, and the promise of something bigger down the road once he proves himself (plus the knowledge that he might not get higher offers elsewhere because of how he’s struggled) you could probably get him to sign a deal like that with the Habs.

HOWEVER.

Now that he has signed this offer sheet, he WILL get $6.1 million. Not only for this year, but once the one-year deal expires, any extension offered to him by anyone is required to start at that number. Regardless of how he performs. Unless he has the breakout year of all breakout years, this will really screw him over — because if he DOESN’T perform to the $6.1 million level, a team (be it the Habs or the Canes) is not going to want to sign him to a second deal at that pricetag. He’ll have to go hunting as a free agent, or get traded before he expires and become another team’s problem. (Note: I’m not exactly sure if the offer sheet process allows Montreal to match with a contract at the same value but longer term, but that doesn’t really solve the problem of being locked-in at $6.1 million after next season even if they can). I understand why he signed the offer sheet — his career earnings so far total just over $2 million, and of course both he and his agent would jump at the chance to guarantee adding triple that in just one year, with the promise of more of the same on his next extension. I’m sure he probably thinks he’s worth it, or can prove he is worth it. He probably thinks the Habs believe in him enough to match it, too — I don’t think he wants to leave Montreal, but he probably sees this as simply an earlier achievement of what they would hopefully be paying him anyway someday, in his eyes.

But even if he DOES perform up to that level, if he remains on the Habs that creates another massive problem crunching up against the salary cap: Nick Suzuki and Jake Evans are both RFA’s at the end of the 2021-22 season, and THEY will be looking for their “grown-up” contracts at that time, the SAME time KK will need to be signed again. Nick is probably going to develop into the better player between him and KK (look at where he already is right now), so even if KK performs excellently next year as say 2C, Nick looks like he will be even better at 1C — and if I’m Nick’s agent, I’m definitely starting my contract negotiations with what the Habs would be paying KK as my absolute lowest starting figure, if not higher. Jake probably has more of a 3C/4C upside, but if KK struggles and plays at a 3C/4C performance level and Jake does that well or better, then if I’m Jake Evans’ agent I am definitely putting my starting figure for negations right around $6.1 million, because I can argue “well, you’re paying Kotkaniemi that much, why not my client?”. Romanov is due up for his post-ELC RFA deal after next year too — because he’s more of a defensive defenceman who isn’t expected to score much, he likely can’t command the kind of figures that an offensively productive centre does, but you still need to have enough cap space to actually sign the guy for what he’s worth; Romanov is eligible for arbitration in that negotiation, so lowballing him too hard could get complicated and contentious fast. And all of this isn’t even including factors like depth players on one-year deals who will need to be replaced or brought back after this year, etc.

Accepting/matching this contract creates a dozen new problems the Habs didn’t have before at all. It carries massive risk and could cause problems for the cap and for roster construction even if KK takes off like a rocket and lives up to the figure on the sheet. I didn’t even touch on the absolute hell the fanbase and media will put him through if he is in Montreal on that kind of payday compared to the rest of the team and fails to live up to it. Alex Galchenyuk only made $4.5 million while he was here and struggling. Look how that turned out for him. You’ve seen how people get when Carey has a rough patch, how the $10.5 million gets brought up and thrown around, and that’s with Carey goddamn Price. I have been around this fanbase long enough to see what happens when people don’t feel you’ve lived up to your pricetag. It gets nasty. Think whatever you’ve seen hurled at Mitch Marner this year, then multiplied by a factor of “fanbase whose expectations have been disproportionately raised probably beyond what’s realistic by the miracle playoff run” and “the Montreal hockey media eats people alive even in good years”. He has been lucky so far in his struggles because he’s still young enough to be cheap. And I’ve still seen plenty of people already writing him off anyway.

Make no mistake: I love KK, I love what he brings to the team, I love how he fits in with the rest of the young core and their dynamics, and I really believe he has the potential to break out into a formidable 2C lowkey-superstar. And I was really, really looking forward to hopefully watching that growth and achievement happen with the Habs, as part of the super exciting future that has been building here. I will be heartbroken if this leads to him leaving, genuinely. My biggest worry with having this bright and shiny new core was always that I would have to watch it get torn apart and turn sad just like the last one.

But now that this contract, right now, at this point in his career is going to be the price of keeping him? I don’t know if matching it will be what’s best for the team as a whole, or even what is best for KK. I don’t know if Carolina actually gives a shit about him as a player enough to use and develop him right if they keep him, or what their end goal here even is other than definitely very literally getting petty revenge for the Aho thing, just look at their Twitter (I think the idea of this as DeAngelo counter-PR has become a bit overblown as an explanation, because surely they MUST know they could end up holding the tab for this and all the risk of it in the end, and that this will die down eventually, so either they’re incredibly stupid or there’s some other benefit here).

And regardless of which way everything goes, I can’t think of anyone I trust less to make the best choice for everyone involved than Marc fucking Bergevin.

#long post #sorry not trying to be mean just literally don’t agree with this at all #habs #Jesperi kotkaniemi #wnylanderthals #asks #montreal canadiens

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puclpodcast · 6 years ago

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PDL Week 8 Recap

We have a lot to discuss this week from Playoffs to an interview with The Fluffiest Whimsicott so let’s jump right into Week 8,

DEP vs. NYY: 0-1

NWN vs. BFS: 3-0

HEH vs. NJJ: 4-0

COG vs. VAV: 2-0

TOT vs. SLC: 0-3

PIP vs. BAL: 0-2

HFW vs. JAX: 6-0

ITA vs. DCC: 0-3

LOL vs. MID: 0-1

BLP vs. AUK: 1-0

MIL vs. MIN: 3-0

There were a lot a really close games this week. That had a lot of playoff implications but I go into more detail about that below. This was a week of inter-divisional matches with a division game thrown in and it is starting to make things a lot more interesting. I cannot emphasize how important every match is in the rest of the season. There are 22 out of 24 teams that have a path to the playoffs, while for some it is unlikely or requires a specific string of losses and win it is crucial that you bring you A game every week. Worst case it is just as much fun to crush someone’s dreams of playoffs as it is to make them, but first let’s enjoy a nice week off as we have our final bye week of the regular season. This week was a positional week. A lot of teams got some crucial wins and overall showed how week to week, you can be playing a different team. Playing any team that prepares well and plays well is going to be difficult to deal with. There are no free wins in this league every one has to work to earn every win.

Pick’ems

Pick’ems this week has left us with one person at the top and several only a point behind. There really inst much more to say about it other than the picks have been off from perfect so it looks like no one will be shout out again… unless in the last 4 weeks the pickers miraculously do what has not been done since week 1. We will see how it goes in the remaining 4 weeks before the playoff bracket

Trades

We have 3 more weeks to make trades and they are still coming through so lets go over them.

AUK Lucario T2 TOT Diggersby TOT Diggersby T2 AUK Lucario PIP Weezing T4 Free Agent Arbok PIP Gourgeist T5 Free Agent Froslass LOL Scizor T2 SHS Espeon SHS Espeon T3 LOL Scizor

AUK and TOT traded Lucario for Diggersby respectively. This trade helps both teams as AUK is hoping this trade will help their team as they make a late season playoff push. PIP dropped Weezing and Gourgeist and picked up Arbok and Froslass. I really like this trade since it gives PIP a grounded poison type to absorb toxic spikes as well as a spike setter in Froslass. The last trade of the week was between LOL and SHS. LOL traded Scizor to SHS in hopes that Scizor can help SHS make playoffs. In return LOL gets Espeon doubling up on Psychic types and adding a magic bounce user to their squad.

Playoff Picture

With 4 weeks left lets start looking at playoffs. I’ll be doing a breif overview of how teams can make playoffs but as we get closer I’ll go into more detail. Let’s assume that you need a 7-5 record to hit playoffs so let’s dive into how each team can make playoffs. It is possible for 15 teams to hit the 7-5 benchmark but it would require some crazy scenarios. Realistically 7-5 will probably make it and potentially a 6-6 team or two.

Tiebreakers: 1. Overall Record 2. Win % in Division 3. Head to Head 4. Best Record vs. Common Opponents 5. Strength of Victory 6. Strength of Schedule 7. Coin Flip

Corsola Cola: There are 4 teams that can reach the 7-5 threshold; BFS, NWN, DEP, and VAV. At the current moment NWN has the tie breaker over BFS even though they have the same record and both teams need 2 wins to achieve playoffs. These teams would also need DEP/VAV to lose 1 game to guarentee playoffs as either 1 or 2. It is going to come down to how well these teams battle in the last few weeks to determine who will win the division. DEP and VAV ideally need to win out to hit 7-5.

Green Tauros: COG has clinched a Playoff spot either as 1 or 2 for the division. They can drop 2 of their last 4 games and still get the number 1 spot due to tie breakers. The real race is between SLC and SHS. SHS is 2 games behind and the last game of the regular season is a battle between the two. If SHS can catch up 1 game and be only 1 game down going into the last match of the regular season then the winner will be the #2 seed and the other can make playoffs in Best of the rest.

Corsola Cola: There are 4 teams that can hit the threshold; HFW, PIP, ITA, and BLP. BLP would have to win out vs. the entire division which is no simple task, but possible. HFW needs 1 win to clinch playoffs and they need to have a better record than PIP to win the Divisin since PIP wins the tiebreaker between them. PIP would need 2 wins to hit the goal and ITA needs 3 wins. This division is fairly clean cut. You need to win out.

Rhyhorn Steakhouse: This division is crazy so I saved it for last because there is a lot to go over. Let’s start with the fact that every team can make playoffs some have a tougher road than other. To hit the threshold, AUK needs to win out, DCC and MIN needs to win 2 games, BAL and MIL need 1 more win and MID would have clinched if 7-5 is good enough. In the last 4 weeks everyone in this division has 2 divisional matches and DCC has 4. Every divisional match is going to be crucial in seeding and the out of divisional matches for some are going to be just as tough and crucial since 5 of these teams are within 2 games of each other. There is no way to know how this will turn out just yet but it will be exciting to follow.

Interview with The Fluffiest Whimsicott

This week I’m joined by the Italian Crusader herself, The Fluffiest Whimsicott!

Clod9: Thank you The Fluffiest Whimsicott for joining us this week. Luckily it’s easier to schedule interviews than battles but let’s get started what have been your impressions on the draft league format thus far?

The Fluffiest Whimsicott: Thank you for having me, it’s quite the honor! As for your question… it’s a lot more stressful than I anticipated, although it’s certainly still fun.

C9: How did your draft go in your opinion?

TFW: Uh… extremely well at the beginning, then it was a panicked downward spiral down to the end. I was confident that with 20 people picking before me, my favorite S-Tier, Mega Mawile, would be long gone by the time my turn came around… but nope, Ravioli was still there! I had a loose draft structure to follow him, but as I kept getting sniped and having to go for my second or sometimes third choices, I found myself scrambling… and at the end I emerged from the deep drafting haze in my head holding: a Hail core I wanted and no one else (wisely) did; Minior; and half of my roster having quadruple weaknesses. I still don’t quite know how it happened, but here we are.

C9: With the season half over, how have things gone thus far and how do you think you will fare in the second half?

TFW: Well. As I have just finished my eighth battle, the season is actually two thirds over for me, and… I have a neutral record, 4-4. It’s worse than I had been aiming for, that’s for sure. And with the opponents awaiting me in the last round of battles… let’s just say at this point I would be quite happy to keep it even.

C9: Who are you most looking forward to battling this season? TFW: The battle I was most looking forward to was the one against Geo, because it was the YOU YOU TEE SEE winners showdown. Ironically (and sadly), it was by far my worst battle, with one crucial distraction and a bit of RNG letting Geo grab the tiny millimeter of momentum he needs to bring any match home (it’s Geo, after all, you breathe slightly wrong and he beats you… and sometimes you do everything perfectly and he beats you anyway, because, have I mentioned? It’s Geo).

C9: I know I’m looking forward to battling you this week 12, It should be a fun time. Now for the flip side is there anyone you are glad you don’t have to face in the regular season? TFW: Mr. Seth. “Stallmaster”. Vilo. I love the guy, but battling him is the utmost torture. (Which I’m sure he’ll take as a compliment, as he should.) And yeah, I’d say I’m looking forward to battling you, too, but you’re decimating our division and I know I’m going to be in a lot of pain in my final week…

C9: Why did you choose the team name, Italian Azurills? TFW: Ah… as embarrassing as it is, it’s actually a pun! See, soccer is a huge deal in Italy. It’s THE sport here. And the Italian National soccer team is nicknamed “gli Azzurri” (“the Blues”), because their uniform is a nice shade of blue… the exact same shade as Azurill, as it happens. From there, the pun was irresistibly obvious, and the logo followed suit.

C9: Were there any secret techs that you brought for your matchups that you didn’t get to showcase? TFW: Yes. The most prominent is that I once brought Counter Ampharos, against Geo, but then I choked and neglected to click the move. It would have been quite fun.

C9: Who would you say is the mon you are most excited to use on your team this year? TFW: Well, Mega Mawile was the one I was gunning for, obviously. And I am always excited to use Alolan Ninetales, of course, just because it’s the prettiest Pokémon ever.

C9: You are currently on the Bubble for making Playoffs, do you feel the pressure as you prepare for your last couple weeks/ Do you think you will make playoffs?

TFW: At this point, the bubble is about to pop. Had I beaten Bigby, I would have made an honest and confident try for it. As it is, I’m certainly not giving up, but I am trying to keep my expectations realistic. I honestly don’t know if that makes the pressure better or worse…

C9: Let’s learn about you as a pokemon Fan. When did you start listening to PUCL?

TFW: September 12th, 2014. (Is it weird that I know the date off the top of my head? It probably is.)

C9:What pokemon generation did you start with?

TFW: Pokémon Red, baby! I am ancient, after all.

C9: What is your favorite region?

TFW: Oh, no. Now I have to resist the urge to launch into an essay! Let’s say Alola, Kalos and Hoenn are all very, very pretty and leave it at that.

C9: Who is your favorite pokemon?

TFW: This one is kind of a cheat question, isn’t it? I’ll give you some bonus answers. Besides the obvious Whimsicott, it’s Leafeon and Alolan Ninetales.

C9: If you had to pick: Attack or Special Attack?

TFW: Tough question. Special Attack, just because I much prefer the types that were Special before Gen IV.

C9: What is your battle style: Stall/Hyper Offense/Bulky Offense/Balance?

TFW: It’s definitely somewhere around Bulky Offense. Balance if I’m having a good day.

C9: Do you prefer Speed or Trick Room?

TFW: Speed all the way. Trick Room just cost me a very important match, after all, so I’m holding a grudge!

C9: What is your favorite Weather; Hail/Sand/Rain or Sun?

TFW: Sun because of SovietThatch and all the Grass types who thrive in it, but honorable mention to the weather that makes Aurora Veil possible and Alolan Ninetales (vaguely) usable.

C9: Electric/Misty/Grassy or Psychic Terrain?

TFW: Psychic Terrain. I know Lele simply could not fit in a Draft League format, but man, I miss my favorite Tapu.

C9: Favorite status to inflict: Sleep/Freeze/Paralysis/Burn or Poison?

TFW: Freeze is convenient, but just too evil. I’ll say Burn, because it whittles things down while also making physical attackers too weak to OHKO my prettiest Pokémon, who are of course also the frailest.

C9: Have you watched the Pokemon anime? If yes, what is your favorite Theme song?

TFW: I watched the first… two seasons, I think? And my favorite theme song is probably… the Italian one. It was very cheery (and cheesy, but aren’t they all?).

C9: Will you be participating in other pucl events like the Summer League?

TFW: I’ve already submitted my application to be a Gym Leader again this year. I hope I get picked, because it was a ton of fun last year, but if I’m not, I’m definitely challenging the Gyms myself! I just love battling and having fun with everyone in the community.

C9: Thank you once again for joining us this week! Good luck in your future battles! That’s all the time we have this week. See y’all again next time!

from PDL Week 8 Recap

#pokemon #pucl #pokemon podcast #ORAS #nintendo #video games

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thecoroutfitters · 5 years ago

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Written by Wild Bill on The Prepper Journal.

Editor’s Note: I know, Summer is hardly begun, some kids still have a long Summer breaks in front of them while some return to school this week; but the time to start preparing for the upcoming hunting season is upon us so this article from James Smith at PointOptics.com is timely in the overall scheme of things.

Nothing beats the feeling of stalking a game animal successfully. It’s the pay-off for rising before dawn, hitting the trail, and using the best equipment for the job. The devil is in the details when it comes to choosing the right rifle, scope, and ammunition. And when it comes to long range riflescopes, it is a crucial step in the stalking, sighting-in, and shooting process.

This is a comprehensive guide on how to hunt game using a long range rifle scope. It includes a breakdown of the five features you should look for in the long range rifle scope you use, and the best ways to hunt game with this equipment.

Features to Look for When Choosing a Scope for Your Hunting Rifle

When it comes down to selecting the perfect long range riflescope for hunting game, the process can get complicated. The many available options just end up muddying the waters sometimes. To help you get a better picture, there are five features to look for that will make this process much easier for you.

Magnification: Choosing the magnification capacity of your long range scope is half personal preference and half scientific algorithm. The most straightforward method of considering which magnification type is best for your hunting requirements is to work out the 1 x magnification per 100 feet (30,5 meters) of shooting distance.

For example, if you were sighting-in at 300 feet/91.5 meters, you would select the 3 x magnification setting on your scope. By using this scope selection technique, you will never be looking at a target that appears more than 35 yards/32 meters away. This viewpoint is a comfortable distance for the eyesight and brain to process.

Most game hunters sight-in at around 100 yards to 300 yards/ 274 meters in distance. It is for this reason that 3 x 9 power riflescopes are the most popular choice for most hunters. It’s the ideal range where most hunters like to take aim.

Ballistic Reticles: This long range scope feature is a relative newcomer to the hunting rifle scene. It provides additional crosshairs or aiming points in the available field of view. Once you have zeroed in your rifle sight picture, you can use the ballistic reticle feature on your scope for better aiming precision.

Ballistic reticles for hunting comes most typically in two formats: Minute Of Angle format (MOA) and mil-dot format. If you have a mil reticle, you will need to have mil-dot adjustments on your scope. Correspondingly, if you have a MOA reticle, you will need to have MOA adjustments on the scope. In that way, the adjustments you make with your elevation and windage turrets will coincide with the sub-tensions in the reticle. But more about that later.

Parallax Adjustment: A parallax is the position of the reticle on your target in relationship to your eye. The PA is a popular feature on bigger, higher magnification scopes because it allows you to dial out the parallax at a specific range so that what you see is what you get. It goes from zero all the way to infinity. If you have a 3 x 9 power scope, you probably don’t need this high-tech addition. However, if you have a 4 x 12 or 4 x 16 power scope, getting a parallax adjustment is a good idea.

First or Front Focal Plane Reticle: You used to find first focal plane reticles only in European manufactured riflescopes, but they have started to become more popular in other countries, and for a good reason. A first focal plane reticle allows you to adjust the magnification on your rifle scope, but the additional aiming points you have in the reticle will still be feeding you the correct trajectory compensation information.

A second focal plane reticle is different. The hash marks only typically match the trajectory when the scope is set at its maximum magnification capacity.

Fast Focus Eyepiece: One of the main benefits of this equipment is its user-friendly integration. It is yet another bit of European technology that is spreading across the Atlantic. It allows you to fine tune your interface with the rifle scope in real time. This saves on sighting and adjusting when shooting over long distances.

There are many things to consider when choosing a rifle scope, the size of the scope, the size of the game, and the shooting distance. But these are the five scope features that you need to have basic knowledge about.

The Anatomy of a Rifle Scope

Because riflescopes are fairly costly pieces of equipment, it makes sense to buy one suitable for your long range hunting rifle and the terrain over which you will be sighting in. It also depends on the company you keep when hunting outdoors as a group. If everyone on the team considers less than 100 yards/91 meters as fair game shooting distance, and you want to go after the more challenging targets, then you should change your hunting group, not your equipment.

The scope you choose should be at least 12 x top magnification, and 16 x is preferable. Higher magnification of 6 x 24 is possible, but finding a target at close range will be more difficult, especially if it is moving. The larger the magnification, the better the optics must be. It’s no good being able to zoom in when you can’t see a clear target in low light conditions.

When you mount the scope, it needs to be with the greatest possible integrity. Any movement in the tube or loosening of the mounting screws will turn your trip into a “one that got away,” saga. It is for this reason that a standard mil-dot or MOA reticle in front focal plane position is recommended.

Once you establish the perfect sight-in distance for each of the mil-dots descending from the center, the calculation won’t change. Even if the scope is set to 8, 22, or 16 x, the first mil-dot will be set at the correct distance. The same thing applies to windage turret calculations. When you have a front focal plane mil-dot, any windage (horizontal) adjustments are the same whether the scope variable is positioned at 10 or 16 x.

Your scope should hold up to the recoil of your rifle caliber as well. Taking this into account when choosing a long range rifle scope may limit your options, sadly, but it’s a vital component to getting the job done.

Mil-Dot vs. MOA for Game Hunting

Do your research before deciding on which system to use.

Stick to the measuring system with which you are most familiar

If you are more comfortable with metric, mil-dot may be the best choice, although the “mil” is not an abbreviation of millimeters

If you are shooting over shorter ranges, many hunters holdover using a reticle altogether

Long range riflescope accuracy should consider precision, calculation ability, and equipment cost

If this calculating is ruining your hunting experience, simply carry a dope card with you at all times. Once you are more familiar with your mils, you can give over using the dots and make super-fast shots without it.

Sighting-In

Proper shot placement for long range hunting is a very important factor. It’s not as simple as sighting-in your rifle so that the cross-hairs are dead-on at 300 yards/274 meters and pulling the trigger. That means the first mil-dot (see diagram) down would be dead-on at around 500 yards/457 meters.

The best way to illustrate this is by using a trophy object standing at a distance of approximately 300 feet away at a steeply inclined uphill angle as an example. When the rifle scope is zeroed at 300 yards, it is actually almost 4 inches/10 cm too high because of the shortening of the trajectory angle. The bullet’s pathway is 4 inches above the aim point, even though the game target was at 300 yards. The best calculation is to zero the target per 100 yards. The first mil-dot should be down dead-on at around 400 yards/366 meters and the second at 550 yards/503 meters. These adjustments will ensure that the bullet path will never be above your point of aim.

Depending on what caliber and bullet weight you’re using, most riflescopes will use this basic sight-in and trajectory. The bullet has a slight left to right arc at long range. If the windage turret is set at zero per 100 yards, this can veer as much as 7 inches/17 cm off target. Counter this by setting the windage at 550 yards on a calm day. The bullet will still be 1.5 inches/3.8 cm to the left of the target when shooting at 100 to 400 yards, but it will be dead to rights at 550 yards.

Remember, the more practice you get in making these decisions, the faster they will become second nature to you on the field. And that brings us to the crucial part of long range game hunting:

Taking the Shot

Before you take any shot over 200 yards/182 meters, make a few calculations in your head using the WAR acronym: wind, angle, and range.

Wind deflection calculations: Use a handheld wind speed calculator if mental arithmetic is not your forte. It will help you formulate the wind speed, angle of the wind, and how it will affect your trajectory. There are also some useful computer software programs to help you grasp the required compensations.

Angle: Straight down being zero, and level straight out being 90 degrees, if your target is approximately 65 degrees, your angle x range multiplier will be 0.8. The more hunting experience you have, the easier it will become to gauge the angle degree. A good handheld rangefinder will calculate and angle x range multiplier of 0.7 for a 45 degree target.

When to Take Another Shot

If you are using a spotter to let you know when you’ve made a marginal hit on the target, base your next shot on the information you receive from your spotter. If the first shot was a complete miss, but the trophy target is still unaware, make the necessary adjustments and try again. If the target is on the move, withhold shooting again until the target is stationary once more.

If you begin game hunting with an experienced crew, they can guide you to all the best places to sight-in. Someone can use the spotter, and point out any beneficial observations. Remember that once your spotting scope is deployed, you will be locked into that position for a while.

A few other hunting essentials are water or energy drinks, PB&J sandwiches (they don’t turn in the heat), granola bars, and jerky. Don’t forget to wear weather-appropriate clothing, and cover up with insect repellent if it’s bug season.

The only thing left to say is Happy Hunting!

Glossary of Long Range Rifle Scope Terms:

1-inch tube: The erector tube of the rifle scope, most come in 1 inch diameter

AO: Adjustable objective. A type of parallax correction feature

Ballistic reticle: Incorporates many factors for correct point of aim

Ballistic turret: A feature of high-end riflescopes. Allows for more than one predetermined turret setting distance

BDC: Bullet Drop Compensation. The relationship between the fired bullet, target, and gravity

Clicks: the number of rotations of the turret adjustments

Duplex reticle: The most common style of available reticle with cross-hairs reaching the field of view edge

Elevation: The vertical cross-hair of the reticle

Fast Focus Eyepiece: Sighting and focusing technology from Europe that allows for a sharp, crisp image

Fixed Power: The magnification is fixed without varying high to low power settings

Holdover: Calculation using BDC technology

Light Transmission: The amount of light that’s collected by the objective bell and transmitted to the eyepiece

LR: Long range

Original Zero: The distance for which you have sighted your scope.

RS: Rifle Scope

Turrets: Used interchangeably to describe the knobs and dials that protrude from the scope

Windage: The horizontal cross-hair of the reticle.

Be Safe out there and be sure to check out The Prepper Journal Store and follow The Prepper Journal on Facebook!

The post How To Hunt Game Using Long Range Rifle Scopes appeared first on The Prepper Journal.

from The Prepper Journal Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies? #SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

#SHTF #TEOTWAWKI #MARTIALLAW #BUGOUT #PREPPERBAG #USAF #USSOCOM #ARMY #NAVY #SurvivalFirestarter #Sur

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squirrelhuntingjournal · 6 years ago

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New Post has been published on Squirrel Hunting Journal

New Post has been published on http://www.squirrelhuntingjournal.com/clearidge-ultra-xp5-4-5-22-5x50mm-review/

Clearidge Ultra XP5 4.5-22.5x50mm Review

As I've said before, I'm always looking to upgrade my glass for my squirrel rifle. I have a particular set of options I look for when searching out a new scope. I like a higher than usual magnification range. I prefer a mildot reticle for longer range shots. I also need side focus or adjustable objective that parallaxes down to 10-15 yards. These demands can be a tough combination to find in an overwhelming scope market, but who doesn't love endless options? Meeting most of my demands, is why I chose a Clearidge Ultra XP5 4.5-22.5x50 to evaluate.

I have a little history with the Clearidge brand, starting with the Ultra RM line. They source the glass and production out of Japan, at the Light Optical Works facility. If you are not a fan of a Chinese produced optic, then Clearidge could be the option you've been searching for. Clearidge deals direct to the consumer, giving you more optic for your money. For many years I've used each of the scope lines they offer with exception of the XP5, and have mostly good to say about what they produce.

SCOPE APPEARANCE:

The XP5 line has an smooth, matte black finish, and comes in a rather large box. It's on par with other optics in the 30mm realm, with relation to length and weight. The markings on the turrets and side focus are very legible. Clearidge furnishes a sunshade, and a bikini style scope coverings with each XP5. Along with the Sightron STAC 4-20x50, the XP5 will turn some heads when seen on your squirrel rifle.....

GLASS/CLARITY:

Happily, I can report that the XP5's glass is very good. I would say it's on par with its little brother in the Ultra XP line, of which is my favorite pick out of the scopes that Clearidge offers. The XP5 stays clear to the edges through the entire power range, with the brightest power being 4.5. The lowest magnification on any scope will be the brightest, however I've had little degradation at the top end of 22.5 power. The glass to me, is better than that of the Weaver V16 or V24, which is manufactured in the same plant. Eye relief is excellent on the XP5. I haven't experienced the "black ring" in the acceptable eye box area, which is very generous at 3.9 inches! After hunting with this optic for one full season, the dawn to dusk capability of drawing in ample light is impressive. It has allowed me to be effective in the squirrel timber at those vital times.

Without Sunshade

ADJUSTMENTS:

This category has its pluses and minuses for me. Let's hit the positives first. Having the fast focus eye piece on an optic of this price should be a given, and Clearidge gets it right. The large, exposed turrets, may not appeal to some, but I really appreciate the legibility. The side focus is a great feature that the XP5 offers, that bottoms out 25 yards. I can deal with that, although I'd prefer a 10 yard minimum parallax. Tracking has been a non-issue. Taking my impacts to the center of the target can be done in few "clicks" with the 1/4" at 100 yard adjustments.

Now the downsides.... The elevation and windage turrets have ZERO audible feedback, and little to no tactile feedback. I may be in a different camp here, but I want to know both audibly and by feel that I'm making an adjustment. On an optic of this cost ($450) I expect an audible turret. The turrets likewise have a reset to zero feature, but lack a zero stop. Resetting the turrets to zero requires removing three allen head screws, popping off the turret, and placing it back to zero. The hang up is that an air pocket is created under the turret cap when trying to re-position to zero, which means you must apply pressure while replacing the allen head screw. It's quite cumbersome. The side focus on the XP5 is both too small, and it lacks accurate markings in correlation to target distances. Being that I had all of these hang ups, I was still able to use this scope without issue. I've certainly become a bit of a nit pick over the years, but scope manufactures won't get better if you don't touch on the downsides of their product.

RING HEIGHT:

If you've read any of my other scope reviews, you know I have a particular maker of scope rings I prefer, and that's BKL. I attached the XP5 to my CZ 452 with a pair of BKL-303 Low rings. They work with the 30mm tube, and fit both 3/8" rail along with 11mm rail. The BKL-303 Low rings will work with objectives up to 56mm.

RETICLE:

Clearidge is always on my radar, because of the variety of reticles they offer in their lineup. Having different options of reticles keeps me purchasing within the same brand. A mildot reticle is my go to for squirrels, and Clearidge offers it from the Ultra RM line all the way to the XP5 line. The mildot reticle on the XP5 is slightly smaller than that of the mid-line Ultra XP optic. Either is usable for target work, or squirrels at longer ranges. Having the ability to range in the glass, along with having a holdover aiming point is invaluable to me when chasing bushytails. Clearidge also offers a standard duplex, and German #4 reticle for the XP5 line. A mildot reticle is one of my main requirements when looking for a squirrel hunting optic, and so many companies are dropping it from their lineups, for more high tech options. These options are usually too busy, or too thin for hunting applications. All the more reason to give my business to Clearidge, as they offer exactly what I'm looking for in a squirrel optic.

MAGNIFICATION:

It's no surprise to those of you who've been readers here before that I have a preference for an optic that has a wide and higher powered magnification range. The story is no different with the Ultra XP5. Having a bottom end at 4.5 power for those "end of the rifle barrel shots," while being able to transition to 22.5 power to take a squirrel at 80 yards offers me a endless ability with this scope. I undoubtedly prefer this type of range on most of my squirrel rigs. To me it covers the squirrel hunter who prefers the fixed 4 or 6 power, while accommodating the longer range capabilities I seek in both sight in/range work, and being able to collect that long range limb chicken. Most squirrel hunters choose a 3-9, and it's a perfect all around choice. However, it's an early season only choice for me, because I'll always take the magnification when I can get it.

MANUFACTURER SPECS:

Product Number:

3910

Finish:

Matte

Reticle:

Mil Dot

Power:

4.5-22.5x

Objective: (mm)

Eye Relief: (in)

3.9

Length: (in)

13.3

Weight: (oz)

23.2

Adjustment: (MOA)

1/4

Total Adjustment: (MOA)

Field of View: (ft@ 100 YDS)

[email protected]/[email protected]

Main Tube:

30mm

Adjustable Objective:

Side Focus

AO Adjustment: (YDS)

25-Infinity

Would I pay $450 for this scope again? Honestly, no I wouldn't, but that comes with a couple caveats. One is the turrets. I need audible and tactile feed back, and the lower priced Ultra XP line offers that. Two is the weight. This optic with sunshade is over 24 ounces, so again give me the Ultra XP line. I wouldn't let these deter you from trying this optic if you can handle the weight and like silent turrets. The glass is great, along with having a myriad of reticle options. I'm thankful Clearidge has decided to continue to add another valued option to the optics market for a reasonable price. Check them out for options to outfit any of your squirrel rifles.

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louisdwilliams · 7 years ago

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Beginners, here are 10 electric skateboards for you !

As is the case with all other types of rideables, electric skateboards also require quite a bit of time to get used to. Effectively controlling them from the very first step is trait only few people are blessed with. For others, it can be a steep learning curve. Even more so if they start off with a model that isn’t suitable for beginners.

What was I looking for when picking boards for the list?

First and foremost I was looking to making sure that most of the boards on the list are wallet friendly. Reason for that was because we’re talking about beginners and it doesn’t make sense for a beginner to shell out $500 or even $1000 for an electric skateboard that they aren’t too sure they will enjoy riding. It’s like buying a Bugatti Veyron for your first car. Don’t worry, there are also “Bugattis” on the list, but most of the boards are budget board that offer a good price-to-performance ratio.

After making sure that the price is right, I wanted to make sure that all the other specs are there as well. We’re taking decent top speed, more importantly a decent range on single charge and also max weight load capacity that’s above 200 lbs.

Electric skateboards on this list:

10. Alouette 9. Atom electric H.4 8. SwagBoard NG-1 7. BlitZart Tornado 6. MaxFind 5. KooWheel D3M 4. ACTON Blink Lite 3. Benchwheel 1000w 2. Blitzart Mini Flash 1. Boosted Dual+

Buying electric skateboard can be confusing for beginners

Because of that, I decided to form a list of the best beginner-friendly electric skateboards on the market. Luckily, there are many good ones out there. I managed to find 10 that are both beginner friendly and provide good bang for the buck.

So, if you or someone you know is looking for a very first electric skateboard, then this list below might seem rather interesting. As I’ve already stated above, it features a total of 10 models, all of which have been handpicked by me. I’ve tried to be as objective as possible and I am pretty sure you will agree with my picks.

So, without further adue, let’s go!

Table : Best electric skateboards for beginners

NameImageMax SpeedRangeWeightPrice 10. Alouette12 mph6 miles110 lbsSee price now 9. ATOM Electric H.49 mph5 miles165 lbsSee price now 8. SwagBoard NG-112 mph10 miles176 lbsSee price now 7. Blitzart Tornado15 mph17 miles300 lbsSee price now 6. MaxFind17 mph10 miles220 lbsSee price now 5. KooWheel D3M27 mph20 miles300 lbsSee price now 4. ACTON Blink Lite5 mph5 miles180 lbsSee price now 3. Benchwheel Penny Board 1000W15 mph7 miles210 lbsSee price now 2. Blitzart Mini Flash12 mph15 miles260 lbsSee price now 1. Boosted Dual+22 mph7 miles200 lbsSee price now

10. Alouette

This entry level electric skateboard features the classical design with a decent grip tape. Underneath it, you will find a 5ply maple deck that clocks in at around 29 inches in length.

It is extremely lightweight, weighing in at just 7.7 pounds which makes it great for carrying around with you no matter where you go. And the last thing regarding its design that’s worth mentioning are the 80A Polyurethane wheels.

Powered by a 350W brushless hub motor, this thing can achieve decent speeds (the specs sheet claim it can go more than 12mph but I really doubt that). It’s running on a 2200mAh Lithium battery with implemented quick charge technology (fully charged up under 2 hours). It can reach up to 6 miles on a single charge which is perfectly fine for the price.

Unfortunately, Alouette has a serious downside in the form of an incredibly low maximum supported weight. Believe it or not, Alouette can withstand just 110 pounds (roughly 50kgs) which limits its userbase only to small children. Other than that, Alouette is a good choice for beginners.

9. Atom Electric H.4

Atom is one of the more established electric skateboard manufacturers out there. They’ve been in this game for years now. They’re known for their good quality products and reliable after-sale support. What makes Atom Electric H.4 great for beginners is a combination of all the factors that we discussed in the introduction. For starters there’s the low price of around $300. Electric H.4 has a deck length of about 27″. It’s a relatively short board, which should make it easy to control and also very portable. Deck is made out of thick layers of Canadian maple wood and can withstand around 165 lbs of weight.

Hub motor design that H.4 boasts means that it has its single 400W motor safely tucked away in the rear wheel. Small power of H.4 means that top speed is limited to about 9 mph. Low top speed is however desirable in our case, because we’re focusing on electric skateboards for beginners. Those who never rode electric skateboards or even worse, those who never rode a regular skateboard, don’t really need a board that can go 25+ mph. That would end in a disaster. Even the 9 mph that H.4 develops is too high of a top speed. Luckily there are two speed modes, one slow, one fast, to help decrease the top speed even more.

Board features a 2200 mAh battery Samsung branded battery. It can give around 5 miles on a single charge. This is including the power the battery gets from regenerative braking. Range is quite low, but you can’t really blame it at that price point. On the plus side, with such a small battery, and a weight of only 8 lbs, you won’t have any problems boarding a plane with Electric H.4. It really is the best board for those who are looking to start getting into electric skateboarding, and maybe even skateboarding in general. You can’t beat it for the price.

8. SwagBoard NG-1

SwagBoard NG-1 is another electric skateboard that can be had on the cheap. It’s actually even cheaper than the previously mentioned Atom Electric H.4, while at the same time offering some even more impressive specifications. For around $200, you get a very powerful board with top speeds of up to 12 mph. Price point hits the sweet spot of what we’re trying to achieve with this list. I’m saying that because if you are not really all that sure you’re going to enjoy riding an electric skateboard, $200 doesn’t seem like such a huge amount of money that you can’t afford to spend in order to try NG-1.

SwagBoard is a well known manufacturer. Don’t get me wrong, they aren’t ATOM, Yuneec or Boosted, but still, you can purchase them knowing that you’re going to get at least some modicum of support from the company. Maple wood deck with an all black grip tape on top makes for one very slick look. I especially like the hand grip cut-outs on each side of the deck, which are intended for holding the deck while in transport. With a net weight of only 9.5 lbs, you’ll be able to carry NG-1 without breaking a sweat. Max weight load on the deck is set at 176 lbs. Not bad at all.

Built-in 24V Li-on Fe battery gives a range of about 10 miles. For the price point, it’s more than enough. If you’re planning on buying NG-1 and you have a longer commute to wherever you need to go, you’ll have to spend some extra cash and buy something like Blitzart Tornado that I mentioned a little bit further down the list. Again, for this price point, SwagBoard NG-1 has a lot to offer, so I definitely recommend it if you are planning on buying an electric skateboard to see why everyone seems to be going crazy about them.

7. Blitzart Tornado

The 7th spot on our list goes to a brand-new model on the market. Made by Blizart, Tornado seems like a solid choice for bulkier people who are looking to start their journey into the world of electric skateboards.

This ergonomic giant (38-inch deck) supports up to 300 pounds of maximum weight which says enough about the things that are yet to be mentioned about it.

I’ll start off with the build quality. Tornado is made with 8ply maple wood covered with a sheet of bamboo on each side. It’s extremely elegant and flexible, providing you with a worry-free experience.

Moving forward to the performance, it becomes quite clear that Blitzard did a great job. Tornado’s Lithium Ion battery allows it to go as far as 17 miles on a single charge. With a maximum speed of roughly 15 miles per hour, it means that this thing can go on for an hour or so.

6. MaxFind

While Blitzart’s Tornado is a fairly new model on the market, MaxFind has already established itself quite decently. With a whole heap of satisfied customers, things are looking great for this awesome electric skateboard.

That is not at all surprising for an IP65 waterproof electric skateboard whose battery comes with the ever so popular quick charge technology. It charges in less than an hour, allowing you to get on your skateboard in no time at all.

Likewise, another great thing about MaxFind is its maximum speed of up to 17mph (roughly 28km/h) which might even be a bit too fast for some of you. Still, the speed is completely adjustable so you can go as slow as you’d like.

Lastly, I’d like to point out that it runs on the Samsung’s 18650 Li-Ion battery. I already mentioned that it charges up in less than an hour, but what I did not mention is its endurance. This battery lasts up to 10 miles on average and allows MaxFind to become your favorite commuting method.

5. KooWheel D3M

Probably my favorite model (just because it is the first electric skateboard I ever had), Koowheel is still standing tall amongst its competitors. This is not only due to a gorgeous design but because of brilliant specifications as well.

It comes equipped with dual 350W brushless motors (total power 700W) and carries an amazing top speed of up to 27 miles per hour. Yup, you read that correctly – that’s 27 MILES per hour. AMAZING! It is, by far, the fastest model out there!

Likewise, Koowheel is a champion in another category and that’s stability. You will not believe how good this beauty performs even at the highest speeds.

Lastly, it is important to mention that it also comes with a quick-charge enabled battery which can last up to 20 miles… which is another record breaking factor. Combine all of that with roughly 300 pounds of supported weight and you will understand why Koowheel is such a good option for everyone and not just for beginners.

4. ACTON Blink Lite

The world’s lightest electric skateboard is not only here because of its title but because it provides a simple yet amazing experience for beginners at skating.

Weighing in at just 7.7 pounds (which is the same as Alouette which technically makes them both World’s lightest electric skateboards), this little fella combines great mobility with solid performance and a dirt-cheap price tag.

Performance-wise, you can expect roughly 5 miles of range on a single charge. Regarding the top speed, you will be seeing somewhere around 5-6 mph, heavily depending on the user weight, terrain and several other factors.

Blink Lite’s deck is made out of only the finest Canadian maple and sports a gorgeous LED strip that’s also present with the standard (heavyweight) version of ACTON’s electric skateboard.

The biggest selling points of ACTON Blink Lite are definitely its weight, simplicity and the overall classic design that’s incredibly easy on the eyes. So, if you are suffering from a severe case of 90’s skating nostalgia, it doesn’t get any better than ACTON Blink Lite!

3. Benchwheel Penny Board 1000W

Benchwheel’s Penny Board can be bought in two different designs (one is more aggressive with interesting marks and red logo on it, while the second one sports a classical grip tape with an Interstate 66 mark). Together with shiny red Polyurethane wheels, it makes up for a pretty good design.

Stepping away from the design and onto the performance, one thing is sure – Penny Board 1000W surprised me quite nicely. I managed to get it up to 15mph which was quite amazing considering I weigh around 210 lbs at the moment.

The top speed was not the only awe factor with this one. Another one was with its mileage… Unfortunately, it was not a pleasant kind of surprise since Penny Board can only reach approximately 7 miles.

Despite that, it’s still praiseworthy to state that it weighs in at just 11 pounds which makes it quite portable. In addition to that, it is also pretty good at charging up since it takes just under 100 minutes to get it back up and running.

2. Blitzart Mini Flash

Most of the time, if you get to choose between different colors of an electric skateboard, you only get the change the grip tape colors. When it comes to Blitzart’s Mini Flash, that’s not the case. The grip tape remains the same, a matte black with a nice looking Blitzart logo on it. What changes is the Polyurethane wheels that come in Orange, red and black.

Apart from an interesting color variants, Mini Flash stands out with its performance and stability tooo. With 12mph of top speed and cca 15 miles of range, it’s quite clear that Mini Flash is a powerful little fella (just 28 inches in length).

Deck is always an important factor when choosing a solid beginner friendly model and it’s safe to say that Mini Flash is up there with the best ones. That’s because it features 7-ply maple wood base surrounded by bamboo sheets for the ultimate durability and flexibility.

Apart from that, it’s also worth stating that it sports a hub motor (more reliable than traditional belt drive ones) and can support up to 270 pounds of weight.

1. Boosted Dual+ 2000W

Finally, we have reached the best beginner-friendly electric skateboard currently available on the market. Not only is this baby beautiful in all aspects, but it also outperforms the majority of other models out there.

The biggest innovation with Boosted are definitely the 3 onboard processors along with a plethora of sensors that all make up a fantastic electric rideable system for ensuring the best possible riding experience at all times.

The thing that makes it THE PERFECT electric skateboard for beginners is its adjustable speed. You can start off with just 10 miles per hour. After a while, when you get the grasp on how to effectively control it without falling off every few moments, you can crank it up to 22 mph.

I’d also like to point out that this is an incredibly lightweight model too, and that struck me with quite the surprise considering its raw performance. Believe it nor not, Boosted Dual+ weighs only 13.5 pounds which makes it pretty good for carrying around between skating sessions.

Last but not least, it’s important to mention the only downside of this one and that’s its battery. It can last only about 7 miles on a single charge. While that might not be so bad, I expected to see at least double the amount because the battery seriously bottlenecks the awesome dual brushless motors…

Conclusion

The biggest virtues of beginner-friendly electric skateboards are definitely their stability. That was the biggest factor I took into consideration while picking the models above. The second one was the outright simplicity of its controlling schematics that is also considered as a huge factor when it comes to ease of use.

In the end, I would like to thank you for reading through this list. As all others on this website, this top 10 best electric skateboards for beginners list was also handpicked by me and features nothing but the best models out there. So, with that being said, I can assure you that you will be thrilled no matter which one you opt for.

The post Beginners, here are 10 electric skateboards for you ! appeared first on ELSkateboards.

Beginners, here are 10 electric skateboards for you ! published first on https://elskateboards.tumblr.com

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elskateboards · 7 years ago

Text

Beginners, here are 10 electric skateboards for you !

What was I looking for when picking boards for the list?

Electric skateboards on this list:

10. Alouette 9. Atom electric H.4 8. SwagBoard NG-1 7. BlitZart Tornado 6. MaxFind 5. KooWheel D3M 4. ACTON Blink Lite 3. Benchwheel 1000w 2. Blitzart Mini Flash 1. Boosted Dual+

Buying electric skateboard can be confusing for beginners

So, without further adue, let’s go!

Table : Best electric skateboards for beginners

10. Alouette

This entry level electric skateboard features the classical design with a decent grip tape. Underneath it, you will find a 5ply maple deck that clocks in at around 29 inches in length.

9. Atom Electric H.4

8. SwagBoard NG-1

7. Blitzart Tornado

This ergonomic giant (38-inch deck) supports up to 300 pounds of maximum weight which says enough about the things that are yet to be mentioned about it.

6. MaxFind

5. KooWheel D3M

Likewise, Koowheel is a champion in another category and that’s stability. You will not believe how good this beauty performs even at the highest speeds.

4. ACTON Blink Lite

The world’s lightest electric skateboard is not only here because of its title but because it provides a simple yet amazing experience for beginners at skating.

Blink Lite’s deck is made out of only the finest Canadian maple and sports a gorgeous LED strip that’s also present with the standard (heavyweight) version of ACTON’s electric skateboard.

3. Benchwheel Penny Board 1000W

2. Blitzart Mini Flash

Apart from that, it’s also worth stating that it sports a hub motor (more reliable than traditional belt drive ones) and can support up to 270 pounds of weight.

1. Boosted Dual+ 2000W

Conclusion

The post Beginners, here are 10 electric skateboards for you ! appeared first on ELSkateboards.

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