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zealoptics · 1 month ago

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Adventuring with a Baby in the Dolomites

Last fall, I became a mother for the first time, and the moment I met my baby, my heart exploded. It’s that indescribable feeling everyone talks about—a love so deep, it changes you forever.

Even though my heart was full, I couldn’t shake the common worry that many new moms experience: Would I lose the part of myself that loved adventure? Would I still be able to enjoy the activities that made me feel alive? It’s a dilemma so many first-time parents face. But my wife and I were determined to find out. We decided to go on a big adventure, knowing it might be a complete disaster—but willing to embrace the challenge anyway.

Of course we knew that things would be different. But different doesn't mean worse—it can mean even more rewarding. So, we planned a summer trip to Italy. Most of the trip would be spent city-hopping, but we wanted to carve out time for a week of outdoor adventure. Visiting the Dolomites had long been on my bucket list, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity.

Planning logistics wasn’t going to be as easy with a third adventurer in tow. My wife and I are both experienced hikers, but hiking with a baby on my back was pretty new territory. We had no idea what to expect or how far we could push ourselves, but we were eager to find out.

To ensure 10-month-old Sofia could comfortably join us on the hikes, we spent time refining our setup. We opted for the Osprey LT hiking backpack, which had great reviews and we also purchased the rain cover—perfect for the rain and wind that comes with unpredictable mountain weather. We tested it at home to make sure it was properly adjusted and comfortable for me to carry. Renting hiking poles in Italy meant we didn’t have to pack them, and an inflatable travel pillow ensured Sofia’s neck would be supported when she inevitably napped in the carrier.

Lucky for us, she loved the backpack, which made the trip a possibility. Since I’d be carrying Sofia the entire time, we kept things as light as possible. The pack had enough room for essentials like a travel changing pad and extra layers. Sofia is also nursing, so she’d get milk straight from the tap and we didn’t need to pack bottles. With my wife, Michaela, newly pregnant, we attempted to keep her load light. She carried our collapsible water bottles, snacks, and any extra gear. We were ready.

The Arrival

After a few days of sightseeing in Venice, we picked up a rental car and headed for the mountains. The scenery was breathtaking as we drove, but as we ascended, I could hear little Sofia gearing up for a blowout. We decided to wait until we reached Cortina to deal with the diaper situation, figuring if we were going to clean up a baby butt explosion, at least we could do it with a view.

Despite the chaos of changing a baby and cleaning the car seat in the parking lot, the views from Cortina were incredible. The town sits in a valley surrounded by dramatic peaks, and we were stoked to start exploring. I quickly learned that when adventuring with a baby, convenience is key—like being close to the start of your hike because sometimes you just need to get moving now.

The Hikes

Our first hike was on the same day we arrived. We drove to Lago de Misurina, about 20 minutes from Cortina. We loaded up Sofia, and off we went. Every twisty Italian road revealed jaw-dropping views, and cute little restaurants seemed to pop up out of nowhere. The lake itself had a partially paved path, perfect for stretching our legs with Sofia’s stroller. The cool mountain air was a much-needed reset after the heat of Venice.

The next morning, we woke up to a mix of clouds and rain, so we decided to ease into things with a five-mile hike around "Cinque Torri"—five towers. We packed our rain gear, in case Mother Nature thought bringing a baby to the Dolomites wasn’t challenging enough, and took a chairlift to start the hike. I slipped on my Zeal Campos, which were the primary sunglasses I brought for the trip. They are extra light and the incredible lenses meant they performed great in sun or clouds. One less thing to worry about when I’m lugging a baby around in backpack.

The hike was peaceful, with only a few other people around. Cinque Torri also doubles as an outdoor WWI museum, so we stopped to check out bunkers and zones where soldiers had hidden or stored supplies. Sofia is as happy as can be, babbling away and enjoying the ride. She stayed snug and dry under the rain cover, while Michaela and I soaked in the moody, gray vibes of the mountains. The mist added to the inherent drama of the mountains, which I loved. At the end of the loop, we ducked into a Refugio just as the rain hit.

Refugios, if you haven’t heard of them, are these amazing mountain huts where hikers, climbers and mountaineers can eat incredible food and relax pre and post adventures. We ordered homemade pasta, wine, and much-needed espresso. I pulled Sofia, now awake, out of the carrier for a stretch and a quick change on the floor next to the table. She munched on some pasta herself and we waited for the rain to let up while we lingered over lunch. I’d say despite the weather, the first hike was a success.

Feeling confident after our warm-up, the next day we tackled Lago di Sorapis—a more intense, seven-mile trek to a stunning lake with some steep sections of exposure toward the top. After a tough night of broken sleep due to baby rolling around all night, we woke up to more rain and a super gloomy day. What are you going to do? We decided we were going to adventure anyway. We set up Sofia in her rainproof backpack tent and headed out to do Lago de Sorapis. As we set off, the mist and fog felt like we were out in the Pacific Northwest.

The trail was socked in by clouds, which was kind of a bummer because we couldn’t see the heights we were navigating. On the plus side, the clouds helped with the fear factor, so we weren’t thinking about how high of a cliff we decided to bring our 10-month-old-baby out on. The mud and rain intensified some of the tougher sections where I had to hold onto metal wires bolted into the cliffside.

By the time we reached the lake, my legs were jello, but the reward was worth it. The water was the brightest baby blue, surrounded by jagged, fog-covered peaks. We were lucky to have a break in the clouds and rain while we were at the lake. And even with the crowds, it felt magical. Sofia had slept through most of the hike (of course), so we pulled her out to stretch and give her a snack. We got lots of attention and what I like to think were Cool Parent Points for bringing Sofia on such a trek. Little did they know, the parents responsible for her hadn’t had a full night’s sleep in months. So maybe our decision making skills aren’t the sharpest? Regardless, the hike was a success. We had to skip the Refugio since it was cash-only, but we started the descent just in time to avoid the next round of rain.

For our third day, we saved the best for last—Tre Cime di Lavaredo. These three massive rock towers are one of the most famous sights in the Dolomites. We saved this hike for last because we were supposed to get a clear day. We woke up again after a night of broken sleep and got out of the hotel by 7 am, hoping to beat the crowds. As we approached the park, we thought we were back in Colorado in an I-70 traffic jam. We were three cars from the entrance when they told us the parking lot for the park was full. Devastating, right? But what are new parents if not resourceful. We came up with another plan.

The only other way into the park is by local bus. We drove back down the mountain and quickly parked. As Michaela grabbed gear and scrambled to pay for parking, I rushed up to buy tickets and get in line for the bus. I looked at the line, which seemed to get longer by the minute. I was not hopeful we’d make it on. Fifteen minutes later, the bus pulled up and Michaela had still not joined us. As the line moved and I approached the doors, the group of five hikers in front of me got denied spots due to space. I held my breath as the attendant asked how many were in my group. I told her my wife was coming, and it was just us plus the baby. She ushered us on, and I texted Michaela to let her know there was one seat left for her. She didn’t reply, but that’s because she was already running for the bus. And she was still running toward us when the doors closed and the bus pulled away.

I felt absolutely terrible and a little panicked leaving her behind, but she texted me that she’d hike up to the entrance and meet us at the Refugio. The bus ride was longer than I’d expected, and by the time we got to the top, I realized Michaela was in for a serious warm-up hike—three miles and 2000 feet of vertical gain! She luckily had the backpack with our water but it wasn’t an easy way to start the day for a pregnant lady.

When Sofia and I got up there, everything was still in the clouds so I sat and had an espresso while I nursed the baby. She fell asleep on me while we waited. There was spotty service but I could see that Michaela was on route. After almost two hours of hiking, she finally arrived and was ready for breakfast and break. Of course, we were relieved we had managed to make it to the entrance but what a mess it was and we hadn’t even started the hike yet.

As it turned out, our timing worked in our favor. By the time we were ready to set out, the clouds were starting to break, and the crowds had thinned. Sofia woke up from her nap, got a fresh diaper on yet another Refugio floor, and we were ready to begin. Most of the refugios had trash bins, so we could toss out diapers, but this hike was heading into more remote areas, meaning we’d have to pack out what we brought in. Honestly, there wasn’t much to see at first, but after all the effort to get there, we were determined to make the most of it.

Then, about 20 minutes in, we rounded a corner—and there they were. The three towers, looming above us like massive sentinels, slicing through the blue sky. The clouds parted, and the views we’d been waiting for finally unfolded before us. It was magical. We spent time frolicking, snapping pictures, and feeling like we’d stepped straight into a scene from Lord of the Rings. After days of gray skies, we were finally being rewarded with the full grandeur of the Dolomites.

As we continued on, we spotted a distant Refugio perched perfectly on the mountainside—like they always seem to be—and decided that’d be our lunch spot. The journey there was just as breathtaking, with every turn revealing more jaw-dropping views. We were in awe, stopping every hundred meters to take yet another photo, because how could we not? Sofia, riding happily on my back, was pointing, waving at hikers and dogs, and chattering nonstop.

Despite how packed the parking area had been and the crowds we saw earlier, the trail itself felt peaceful. The vastness of the landscape seemed to swallow up everyone, leaving us in what felt like our own little world. The tiny figures of other hikers scattered in the distance only added perspective to the sheer scale of everything.

When we reached the Refugio, we grabbed a spot at a shared picnic table, ordered lunch and a beer, and just sat there—completely in awe of where we were. Sofia was dancing, snacking, charming everyone around her. It was another perfect opportunity for a quick diaper change (on the ground, of course), while we recharged for the rest of the hike.

Feeling refreshed, I strapped Sofia back into the carrier, ready for the next leg of our adventure. Every corner of the trail brought something new—a fresh view, an unexpected angle, more beauty than we could have imagined. It was the kind of energy that lifts your spirit, a reminder of why we do this in the first place.

Adventuring with a baby is definitely harder, but it’s also incredibly rewarding. Sure, Sofia won’t remember any of this, but we will. Our trips might look different now, but that doesn’t mean the adventure is over. It’s just evolved. It’s inspiring to see other parents out there, making it happen, even if it’s a slower, more complicated version of their pre-kid adventures.

Yes, the logistics are tougher, and everything takes longer, but this trip was one of the most memorable adventures of our lives because we shared it with Sofia. And we learned so much about her and about being parents on this trip. We learned how adaptable she is–probably more adaptable than we felt at times! It was a reminder that the love of adventure doesn’t end after kids. It just changes—and in the best possible way. I love being inspired by all the rad moms and dads out there. Adventure is still attainable. Keep exploring.

#zeal optics #exploremore #weareallzeal #hiking #backpacking #motherhood #dolomites #sunglasses

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