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[jill-knits]

Creativity is always adapting. Methods, mind set, ideas, directions, concepts, interests. I find myself going in a direction, and then finding that there is this, and that, and then that adaptation keeping the idea fresh and intriguing.🧧🎍🌺 #marchmeetthemaker #knittinglife #knitweardesigners #makers #knitters #knitting #knitting_inspiration #knitwear #knittersoftheworld https://www.instagram.com/p/CqW74rXrSYG/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[customknitfactory]

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[aadmelioraa]

Spark (Hild x Iseult, 1.9k)

It had been an extremely long day at the end of an extremely long week—a long term, and a long year, even—and all Hild wanted to do when she got home was finish submitting her final evaluations and then go directly to bed.

But the instant she unlocked her door she knew she was in for an unpleasant evening.

The temperature inside was nearly as cold as the snowy December weather outside. Frost had even begun to form in the corners of the kitchen windows—old windows that the landlord had promised would be replaced months ago.

Hild sighed deeply, her breath creating a faint cloud as she exhaled. The same thing had happened last year right before Christmas. She should have expected it to happen again. It was going to be far too cold for her to concentrate on her work tonight. She really needed to find a new flat before her lease expired.

The radiator in her bedroom was cold to the touch as she turned the dial back and forth to no avail. She sighed again, and in her irritation gave it a solid kick. It didn’t improve the functionality, but it did make her feel slightly better.

Her fingers trembled with cold as she pulled her cellphone out of her coat pocket to call her landlord. They didn’t pick up, of course, so she left a somewhat curt message and made a mental note to phone again in an hour.

Accepting her fate, Hild slipped out of her coat and put on a pullover and cardigan over her turtleneck, then her coziest scarf. She was just struggling to pull her house shoes on over the bulk of two extra pairs of socks when she heard a knock at the door.

Read the rest below or on ao3

Perhaps it was a repairman? Unlikely, but she wasn't expecting anyone else.

She shuffled to the door and opened it to find Iseult, her downstairs neighbor. The neighbor she’d wanted to speak to a dozen times or more, but had not yet got up the courage. The neighbor she’d found herself wondering about on a lonely night more often than she cared to admit.

“I thought I’d find you home,” Iseult said. Fortunately, she did not appear to be clairvoyant.

Hild’s face must have registered some surprise because Iseult smiled slightly as she added, “I may have heard you kick the radiator.”

“Oh—sorry if I disturbed you,” Hild said, flushing a bit at how she’d let her temper get the better of her. Noting that her neighbor was also wrapped in several layers of knitwear she added, “I take it your heat is out as well.”

“It’s the whole building, I think.” Iseult’s voice sounded as irritated as Hild felt.

“Would you like to come in?” Hild offered, and then immediately wondered if that was a stupid question. She had nothing much to offer, particularly without working radiators.

Iseult smiled again, a bit softer this time, but her eyes brightened. “Thank you.”

“We may as well stick it out together, I suppose,” Hild said, knowing that she would not have the evening she had planned no matter what.

She led the way into the kitchen and gestured to the electric kettle on her countertop. “Cocoa? At least we don’t have to rely on the gas for that.”

“Sounds lovely.” Iseult took a seat at the kitchen table, chafing her upper arms for warmth.

“You haven’t lived in this building long, have you?” Hild asked as she set two mugs on the counter and turned the kettle on.

“Only a few months. The start of your school year, I think.”

Hild glanced toward her guest, her mouth twitching into a smile despite her best efforts. She was surprised but pleased to find that she was apparently a person of interest. “Well, clearly you know I’m a teacher. What about yourself?”

“I’m a jewelry maker.” Iseult gestured to the earrings and necklace she was wearing. “I also do tarot readings out of my flat.”

“Ah.” Hild dropped her eyes to her hands and bit her lower lip.

“You do not approve, I know,” Iseult said in a carefree, almost musical tone.

Hild turned back, eyebrows raised. “Oh?”

Iseult huffed a gentle laugh. “It’s not an insult, Hild. I know that you are religious.”

Hild was about to ask how when her gaze fell on the wooden cross hanging above the sink. She turned back to see Iseult’s eyes alight with laughter.

“You’re at church every Sunday, too. I hear you get up earlier that day, and sometimes I see you return in your formal clothing.”

Hild would not have characterized a mid-length wool skirt and a pair of oxfords as formal, but looking at Iseult in her worn, wide-legged corduroy pants and scuffed clogs perhaps they had different standards of formal wear.

“So you’ve been spying on me,” she said, attempting to lighten her tone as she tore the cocoa packets.

Iseult chuckled and pulled her sleeves down around her palms.

“There is only so much to do during the day between appointments. I like to read by the window, so I happen to see everyone coming and going.”

Hild added hot water to the mugs, stirred, and added a bit more. The spoon clinking against the ceramic was the only noise in the room for a moment.

“Thank you.” Iseult’s fingers brushed against hers as she accepted the mug of cocoa. Hild nodded, trying to ignore the fluttering in her chest, and took a seat across from her.

“The heat’s not likely to be fixed today,” Hild informed her in a somewhat apologetic tone, as if it was her fault. “Last winter the same thing happened, and it took an entire weekend to resolve.”

Iseult’s eyes widened and she shivered reflexively. “Goodness, what did you do?” Hild remembered how Uhtred, who had been staying with Sihtric at the time, had come over and not left for…about seventy-two hours, by her calculations. That solution would not do this time around, and it wasn't just because he had a girlfriend.

She cleared her throat. “Just…coped.”

“Well, do you have any tips for coping?” Iseult asked innocently.

Hild took a sip of cocoa, hiding behind her mug temporarily. “Lots of blankets, I suppose.”

“I have a hot water bottle, but I imagine you might have one too.”

Hild shrugged. “Yes. It helps, but…”

“Well, we may as well camp out together, in the meantime. That is…if I’m not overstepping.”

Hild gazed across the table into Iseult’s warm brown eyes and wondered if there was any world in which she would deny her.

“You’re not over stepping at all. But I confess, I may not be very good company tonight. I’m feeling rather crabby, to be perfectly honest.”

Iseult’s smile wrinkled her nose. “Crabby is fine by me.”

Hild’s smile in return felt a bit too broad, but she couldn’t help it. Iseult was charming in every sense of the word. She regretted it had taken her this long, and a minor catastrophe, to spend any time with her.

“It’s warmer in the next room,” Hild offered, rising to her feet. “Better windows in there.”

They made their way to the couch, and Hild gathered every blanket she could find. She even brought her down comforter from the bedroom and offered half to Iseult, who graciously accepted. They were bundled up nicely now, though Hild found herself quite irritated when yet again their landlord ignored her call. Her irritation was tempered by her enjoyment of Iseult’s companionship and the low current of accompanying nervousness.

She flicked on the television, not wanting to leave the burden of conversation entirely on her guest.

Iseult laid her head against the back of the couch, curling slightly on her side so her body faced Hild.

Hild adjusted her posture, and her knee bumped up against Iseult’s leg. She nearly pulled back, but Iseult didn’t move away, so she didn’t either.

Iseult leaned a bit closer after a time, eyes still fixed on the television, but Hild was finding it increasingly difficult to focus on anything other than the woman beside her.

“Is your school term finished?” Iseult’s eyes opened and closed slowly. She seemed to be trying to keep herself awake.

“Yes, I won’t quite know what to do with myself for the next two weeks,” Hild replied.

“What do you normally do between terms?”

“Well, they always need help at the church this time of year. That, and try to rest if I can.”

Iseult cocked her head slightly. “Rest is good.”

“I’m not very good at it, I'm afraid,” Hild felt compelled to admit.

“Like everything, it requires a commitment to practice,” Iseult said softly.

She was sincere, but there was a kind of levity behind her demeanor. Something that made Hild feel a bit more seen than she typically did. Normally that would make her uncomfortable, but with Iseult, it didn’t. It was as if she was standing behind a sheer curtain, waiting to pull it aside and step forward, but in her own timing.

“How would you advise I commit to practicing?” she asked, staring at the television but not watching.

Iseult chuckled and pulled the comforter up around her neck. “This is a good start, here.”

Hild shivered and instinctively moved a bit closer. “I suppose this is God’s way of telling me to take the night off.”

“Does your god speak to you often through the incompetence of your landlord?” Iseult asked.

“Not exclusively, no.”

Iseult’s nose wrinkled in amusement and she leaned a bit closer still.

When she took Hild’s hand under the coverlet, Hild was certain her heart had stopped beating.

Iseult’s eyes were clear and bright as she asked, “Does your god have rules about this?”

“Some men claim he does,” Hild murmured, “but I’m not in the habit of listening to men.”

Iseult’s smile widened as she leaned forward to brush a kiss to Hild’s lips. Hild’s breath caught. She froze, then cupped Iseult’s face gently as she kissed her back.

It was a good kiss—perhaps a little awkward, somewhat tentative at first, but building in feeling almost immediately. A spark had ignited between them—cold flint and steel striking against each other and creating something beautiful that had not existed there before.

Hild’s face grew warm—she was sure she was blushing quite deeply—and the heat spread throughout her body from her core. Her fingers, twined in Iseult’s, were still cold, but that’s not why they were trembling.

“You don’t need much practice at that,” Iseult said coyly, leaning her forehead against Hild’s.

Hild felt a laugh tumble forth, and clasped Iseult’s hands between her own to warm them.

Iseult laughed too, and tucked into her side. Hild wrapped an arm around her and pulled the coverlet tighter.

Half an hour later, they were both asleep. They’d wake in the morning light, still wrapped up in each other, to a missed call from their landlord. The heat would be fixed in time, but they would devote themselves to other pastimes while they waited.

[for-beomgyu]

W Korea’s May Issue - Beomgyu Interview

The team's mood-maker and energy is Beomgyu. Coming up from Daegu, he still has a satoori/dialect accent and introduces himself as 'bright.' White, guitar sounds, knitwear, comics, and the time between 2 and 6 in the afternoon are Beomgyu's favorite things. He’s a tireless pacemaker who always gets the team's mood up without a break.

This album 〈The Dream Chapter: STAR〉 has 5 songs, which one are you most attached to? A song called '별의 낮잠,' because I like the guitar and there's guitar in the song it sounds better. The member's voices and breathing were relaxed so it's makes it feel more emotional and relaxed. When you go home after work, lie down in bed, and listen before you sleep, it's a good song to listen to while thinking 'Ah I've had a hard time today.'

You’re in charge of mood-maker of the team. It's a high tension situation during a usual day of practice or staying at home. That's why the members say things like 'Beomgyu is really not tired' 'He's an energizer.' If someone's down I try to cheer them up as much as possible with good words, compliments, comfort, etc. I'm with the members 24 hours and day and practiced, as a result I slowly became comfortable and familiar with them.

What do you usually do when you're free to spend time with your members? I often go to a PC room and go to Hongdae to buy clothes. We all went on an outing to the Han River and I also like going to the chicken house.

I heard that Daegu is your hometown. Do you have any favorite places? My Seoul friends like Dongsung-ro a lot, but I prefer Bukseong-ro. If you go there, there's lamb pot with udon sold directly with bulgogi. I remember going to eat with my dad at dawn, but it tastes better when it's cold.

What kind of musicians do you like or are affected by? I think I was most affected by BTS's V sunbaenim's influence. He gave me a lot of advice when I was a trainee, but I still remember emphasizing the importance of practice.

Do you have any concerns these days? The stage is always the biggest concern. If we do a live broadcast for 5 weeks, the dance is already set so we can't change it, but I try to make as many expressions and gestures as possible. It seems like the biggest worries and greatest happiness we both all on stage.

In this world, what do you think is the cutest thing to exist? In the main house, there's a raised standing parrot, Toto, that goes 'Hello, hello' when the door lock sounds. In the kitchen when you boil ramen, how you know if it's delicious food is when he runs from afar and wants to eat his own, he pats his feet and nudges for a hug. My father sometimes sends pictures of trees, so if I look closely I can't see anything, but like a magic child I can see a green Toto sitting on it. I miss it a lot.

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"Thank you for being willing to make this so a curvy girl gets in on the trend." That is what one of my customers wrote to me in a note with her order in which she requested a custom length. We met at the Shenandoah Fiber Festival and she needed a longer strap than my standard measurement, which is designed for shawls and wearable as a bracelet by some. This is what I am doing right now. I am in my workspace making shawl cuffs for you. I start with long strips of leather, each of which I measure, cut, shape, mark, punch, rivet or set snaps, and add hardware. For those of you who request custom lengths for bracelets, I measure separately so your cuff is perfect for you. Send them in, my lovelies. Send me your finished cuff measurement just as you would like it to fit. Wrap a tape measure twice around your wrist. Let me know that measurement in a note you can write at checkout. Juldesigns.com. . #slowfashion #knitlove #sustainablefashion #juldesigns #handmade #fairtrade #shawlcuff #leatherjewelry #fairtradefashion #organic #ethicalfashion #ecofashion #needlearts #makers #knitting #knit # #knitwear #knitweardesigner #knitwearlove #knitwearaddict #knitweardesign #knit #yarnlove #shawl #leatherclosures #knittersofinstagram #knitstagram https://ift.tt/2oC0LVZ

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UNTRUISMS: YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR

by Réginald-Jérôme de Mans

Today price is another marketing tool.  We’re still told to think otherwise, thanks to regular posts and articles that helpfully compare the differences between, say, a $500 and a $2,000 leather jacket.  Those articles make price out to be the proxy for quality, with all the differences between the two presumed to indicate lower quality in the cheaper version and higher in the dearer. Price does not mean quality, as those comparisons suggest. And $500 is a huge amount of money for a piece of clothing to almost all of us. 

That is, price doesn’t necessarily mean quality.  Most of us veterans of the #steez wars carry the scars of at least one skirmish with the too-good-to-be-true.  The new maker who turned out to be a fly-by-night or the guy with an impressive pedigree from the best houses who turned out to have nothing but that. Far more of us admit to those scars rather than the scars of paying way, way too much for mediocre quality, because the former are cheap.  It’s a lot harder to admit to yourself, let alone to others, that you paid an enormous amount of money for, say, a custom suit from a famous, historically significant maker whose current staff pushes you out the door instead of making right their errors. And far fewer of us can or will pay the high prices anyway, so there’s fewer of us to report that.  

You have to know what you are paying for.  There are many very, very expensive makers and sellers of nice things out there.  Some charge what they do because their price reflects the high price of their labor, the years of training their key staff have had, the quality of their materials, and the potential cost to them of doing whatever it takes to please the customer, including remaking a botched garment.  If all of these qualities have made them famous and successful, their price will also often reflect the high rents of the address they are at.  Others charge a similar price without offering all of those things, because that high price, and the heritage they market, suggests all of the rest without them actually providing it.  

Unfortunately, it’s quite hard to tell one from the other without some difficult trial and error. One easy hack for many is used clothing – even the finest clothing, custom or otherwise, rarely sells used for more than 10% of what it costs new.  Sometimes, as with my favorite knitwear, the quality of some of the relatively cheap old used stuff is irreplaceable today, simply because there’s little commercial reason to make them the same way anymore.  

What are we looking for?  What, really, do we want to get? If you’re reading this, then it’s probably more than just a piece of clothing.  It’s something that attracts and resonates with you, that feels almost transformative, something that is both beautiful and somehow more than just durable, but enduring.

Lasting beauty and a feeling beyond price, a feeling of revelation. No wonder we suppose it’s expensive. It doesn’t have to be, but knowing what we’re paying for is hard – costly – as well. 

You can get a lot for a little in cufflinks and other somewhat disfavored articles of men’s clothing, like ties and tie clips, if you know what you’re looking for in the vintage market. My search for the links pictured here was inspired by the vintage links selected for the most wonderful store I’ve ever seen, itself too long gone.  These are tiny seed pearls set into smoke-colored iridescent mother of pearl in a chased octagonal frame, double-sided like (one of my prejudices, to which my shirtmaker takes strong exception) all good cufflinks should be.  They are objectively beautiful and cost me all of twenty dollars.  They were exactly what I was looking for to wear with a formal shirt (my silk #tactleneck evening shirt).  Mother-of-pearl, which is obtained from various oyster, mussel or abalone shells, is not very expensive.  The seed pearls may be real, cultured, or sham, but they’re mounted exactly the way I wanted, looking almost free instead of imprisoned in a cabochon setting.  The frames might be white gold plate (if anything) over base metal, but the pattern is delicate and the metal, however base, wonderfully patinated.  I’ve seen versions of these in solid white gold or in platinum for far, far more, sometimes rendered far less elegantly.  We can find cheap joys – handsome old cufflinks that do justice to the elegance of a formal shirt are just one example.  

In recent years marketers have realized that they can make these sorts of objects, too, pay, an example of the new meaning of curation.  Beautiful consumer goods of any price point collected, with customers now paying for someone else’s eye, and someone else’s work collecting such items.  If you care enough to read this, you care enough to know that your eye, too, can be quickly trained to recognize what will give you genuine enjoyment.  Often at little expense, and instead the thrill of personal discovery. 

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Mr. Porter Sale at Up to 70% Off

Mr. Porter expanded their semi-annual sale over the weekend, adding merchandise and increasing discounts to up to 70% off.

I got a great response to the page I set up for last Wednesday’s midweek sales roundup, so I’ve gone ahead and put my picks on a separate page here: 

Mr. Porter Summer Sale 2018 Picks

Although a lot gets snapped up after the first round of discounts, this second round actually feels a little more manageable to browse. There are picks in footwear, outerwear, knitwear, accessories, and a few tailored items, and I made an effort to focus on merchandise that still has a decent range of sizes left.

Three highlights:

George Cleverley footwear. Although primarily known for its bespoke shop in London’s West End, Mr. Porter features a few ready-to-wear models from the English maker.  On sale they’re priced right around what you’d pay for a new pair of Allen Edmonds.

Mr. P collection. I’ve included a few pieces from Mr. Porter’s in-house label. Two of those are pictured above: their hooded field jacket and mock-neck ribbed sweater.

Ready-to-wear Rubinacci. I especially like the crazy closure on these double-pleated flannel trousers. Maybe the kind of thing only Luca Rubinacci can pull off, but I still like it.

Along those lines, some of the things I’ve picked out are there more because they’re interesting to me rather than the greatest menswear deals. Like, most all of the Brunello Cucinelli outerwear.

Or the embellished and hand-painted leather double rider my 3-year-old picked out for my wife.

Or the Wacko Maria tiger print jacket he picked out for me.

See my Mr. Porter Summer Sale 2018 picks here.