#it’s hard out here trying to be my own cheerleader when my brain has historically been one of my biggest foes lmao
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start my new shift as a workflow coordinator sometime next week ahhhhh
#trying to focus on being grateful for what i have and excited for where i am going#i’ve been doing live training in the inbox for the past four days and it’s been kinda nerve wracking but i think im getting the hang of it#i just get anxious because i really want to do a good job#change is scary but scary is good sometimes#ngl very spoiled by my 10-6 shift atm i will miss her dearly 😭 at least i get additional pay differential#the big thing i’m working on in therapy rn is figuring out the steps i need to take to live my best life for me#it’s. very difficult. but i’m trying my best and im proud of that#it still sucks Quite a bit of ass rn but. one day at a time.#i just rly miss having someone to share my day with. who’s excited to hear a play by play of the work day with rapt attention#it’s hard out here trying to be my own cheerleader when my brain has historically been one of my biggest foes lmao#anyways. forcing myself to keep going.#one day someone will cherish me the way i know i deserve. forever#sam soliloquizes
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Okay. Let’s try this again. But healthy-like.
...Which, since it’s me, means religious stuff. I understand if reading about how I want to blow my brains out is easier to stomach.
Things are bad, but not insurmountably bad. I have a solid support system. The monetary side of that support system scares me to death, but nothing has gone away yet. Even if it does, I am supposedly devoutly religious enough to believe in miracles, and believe that divine intervention is very literally the only reason any of my life has been possible.
There’s no reason to think that’s going to change. The fact that I don’t find that entirely comfortable is between me and God, and the more energy I put into that, the more it’ll be okay. Life is bad enough that only a miracle can save me, and I believe in miracles. That’s like the opposite of a problem.
In theory. Practical application of said theory is lost somewhere between wanting to shoot myself and deciding to announce to the general public that I want to shoot myself. Every time I point out to myself that my faith says I’ll be okay because God’s always there for me, another, deeply cynical part of me points out that He was also there for me when I had sepsis, and if I’m being honest, that was the most horrifying experience of my life.
Knowing that I can come back from anything really just fills me with existential dread, because you know, I have seen a fair share of ‘anything,’ and I don’t care for it. I don’t want to know that I can survive anything. I want to be safe from anything happening to me.
Historically, I am the person who ends up eaten by a whale. Or I guess it wasn’t actually a whale? My Bible literacy is made of fail, but the point is, me and God are still in the “Do I have to?” phase of our relationship.
The current unwanted task is living.
To which the answer is no, I don’t have to keep living. However badly I screw this up, there’s an eternity waiting for me, and I can flip the switch whenever I want.
This life doesn’t have an eternity. It’s a unique, temporary, instant of existence.
Putting off forever for one more sliver of that instant, just to see where it goes, isn’t that hard. I do it by accident all the time. I go to bed, and wake up breathing.
I like my bed. It has a tiger bedspread. It’s thinner than it used to be, and I can’t make myself make the damn thing, but it’s snug, it’s mine, and I don’t see a problem with it. I feel pretty confident in saying that death would irrevocably change the interaction I have with my bed.
It’s temporary, so I should make the most of it. No one else is going to care about my bed or how my bookcase is organized, and even though I have days I don’t care either, there are days when I do, so what the hell.
Everything hurts a lot right now. I have zero control over the physical. Again, miracle needed, so I can just relax and coast and. you know, suffer. A lot. A real awful lot. An unfair lot.
...Yeah, no happy silver lining answers for the bad days or moods. They’re bad, I tolerate them badly, and I scare people. But I’ve been having a bad day for months now, and it hasn’t stopped me from doing things that aren’t so bad. Infinity War was amazing. I wrote 9000 words of a hs au my brain is convinced no one cares about. Several people have told me they enjoy it, so I know my brain’s lying about that, but believing that no one cares means that, while no one’s cared, I’ve written 24k words of story in a handful of months. Story I kind of dig. All while being horrifically depressed.
I think that turned into a silver lining answer.
Fuck, I don’t know, man, if I’d offed myself I wouldn’t get to write about Ymir wanting to bang a cheerleader, and that’s clearly the pinnacle of what I should be doing with my life.
I can never remember any of that during the bad times, and that sucks, but hey, maybe writing it down will make the memory a little deeper.
So, uh, positives.
Despite certain inclinations, I have not actually committed murder. Every tiny setback right now feels like the end of the world, but being able to wake up in the morning and hate the world would seem to indicate that it’s still there, so it’s just a very, very bad feeling, not real.
I have very little concept of what’s real or not, since my emotions sort of exist in peekaboo limbo. Babies have no concept of object permanence, and right now, neither do parts of me. On the one hand, awkward, on the other, it means that the tempest of rage is only summoned when provoked. Yay team.
Less positive, it is not good that suicidal rage has developed as a coping mechanism to doing slightly poorly in a video game, and once it’s started, it’s hard to shut off. I get it. I don’t feel like a person, so I judge myself based on accomplishments, and because of my health, those accomplishments are things like doing slightly okay at a video game, and I’m letting my entire sense of worth hinge on that. Along with other external factors.
This is bad, and unhealthy, and since I hate myself, I’m probably going to keep doing it. Not in a, “oh you scamp, haven’t you learned yet?” way, it’s just entirely possible that the fact that I can sometimes aim in a video game is really the most positive thing I can say about myself some days, and I can’t see a way to delicately switch myself over to understanding that it really doesn’t matter without losing one of my few bright spots.
But I am clearly overly investing in certain things, and I need to get into the habit of just turning the damn game off if it’s making me that angry. I know the moods come on fast, and I know I have delusions of conquering them before they go anywhere, and sometimes, I even break through the other side.
Oh well. I don’t like feeling like that. I hate that feeling enough that I should get into the habit of cutting my losses at the first sign of self-loathing. I know I feel like there is nothing else I can do with my time, but there is. I can watch anime. I can play other games. I own a game where the entire strategy revolves around killing yourself. I love it, and it keeps failure entertaining. I have other outlets.
Also, obsessive cycles have tripped me up my whole life. This is just one more, and it needs to be handled the same as all the others. No, it won’t be fun, and maybe I will be bored out of my skull, but that’s better than frothing with rage.
And I really should be watching more anime. I don’t know what it says about my mental health that I am actively avoiding things I have a long history of loving, but I’m guessing it’s nothing good, and even if I can’t fix the underlying problem, I can address the symptoms. Go watch more cartoons. Write more. Any day now, I can lock myself in my room and finish my Lego X-Wing (Poe’s, so it’s black, and so very badass, and no, I don’t know why it’s been collecting dust, but again, I’m sure it’s a sign of nothing good).
So the argument that I need to keep doing the things that make me angry is moot, because it isn’t actually all I have. It just feels that way, and all of my feelings are wrong and damaged, so I should stop listening to them.
...In a healthy, rising above way. No a repressing way. That is at least half of the reason posts like these end up happening.
None of this is really making me feel better right now, since I’m in a moment where I’m less than sure I have feelings, but that isn’t the point. I learn better when I put things into my own words, and I haven’t been taking care of myself lately. I don’t know that it’s even possible for me to do better than I have been, but the end result is the same, and the end result has me really tired.
This is like a benign to-do/ponder list. Maybe it will make an impression, maybe it won’t, but at least one more time, I went through the motions of trying to sort life and its greys out instead of painting the whole thing black.
Hopefully that something something. I dunno, I’m kind of a wreck, and I lost my perceived point more times than I want to count. I think I’m done here.
Except for saying thanks to the people who responded to the more... head explodey post. I’m bad at saying thank you, and letting people know how much they mean to me in general. I get embarrassed. Usually, when I hit my meltdown point, I know, on some level, I will find my calm again. Receiving kindness when I could have kept my mouth shut and gotten over it makes me uncomfortable. Especially when I know it’s probably going to happen again. People help me out so much, and with such regularity, and it kills me that it’s not enough, because it’s more than I could have ever asked for. I don’t know how to say thank you without feeling ashamed the next time. It’s like I failed, and dragged all of you down with me by letting you believe you helped me.
When that’s a really, really incomplete view. It helps. It always helps. It isn’t the magic bullet, but it always means the world, and it always bolsters me for whatever the next thing waiting for me is. I really wish I could say that more often, because it would be great if you guys could know it. But, you know, shy. Cagey about being vulnerable. Suicidal ponderings okay, heartfelt appreciation of someone’s value is overly mushy and something to fear. Obviously.
Also, I’m me. I let loads of stuff go unsaid because with the important things, there are times I feel it strongly enough that the thought of bringing it back to earth where you need to tell people that it exists for them to know that---unspoken understandings shade a lot of my relationships. Then I end up horribly insecure because I don’t know how many boundaries I made up or we actually both agree on, so I don’t know why I keep thinking it’s a good way to treat people.
What I mean by all of that, is thanks. For being a large part of why I’m still here. I wish less of you knew what I was going through. I hope things improve for all of us, and I hope we’re all around for a good long time to share the evidence of that.
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#personal
It’s coming to the end of the year pretty fast though I’m not sure I really care all that much. It’s hard to evaluate just how shitty a year has been when you’ve grown despite of it. The last few weeks have been tense like they usually are though outside of work things have been peaceful. My mood has been changing slowly. I told a friend it felt like I was in a cocoon. I’ve been in one for a pretty long time. Slow to mature for my own reasons maybe. Time is already enough pressure or the lack of it. I’ve developed a pretty hard line on things wasting my time. It doesn’t matter how nice I am. There’s a point when further pain is just unnecessary. I know people say it makes you grow. But there’s a point when you’ve already learned enough. It doesn’t listen back. It’s like constantly stubbing your toe on a chair you know will get you every time. And you never think to move it. That’s kind of how my brain works now. I’m obviously somewhat of a writer. I like to take my time and reflect on things. The slower you approach things sometimes the more you enjoy them. Maybe in a way you never thought before. There’s that fear for some people. Change. That they might waste their time focusing too much attention on something. That they might lose control of the same old thoughts they’re comfortable with. And for sure, being too intense about anything can be creepy especially if it’s sluggish, unnecessarily careful and ultimately forced. You can always tell if you listen. You can always figure it out if you take the time to think. People who pressure you out of that reflection have some kind of motive. Maybe they are just awkward and unaware of how they’re prying. Maybe that’s their intention is to waste your time. Maybe it’s harmful. You don’t know right away. I’ve shut people down a lot. It never feels good. People talk down to me all the time. I don’t get angry about it I just walk away. I disengage from the conversation and the narrative entirely. I know where it leads. I’ve spent year after year here trying to avoid the same failures until they’ve become obvious to me at least. I don’t lecture people really. I let people waste their own time as long as it doesn’t interfere with mine. The holidays are a great time to be practicing this of course. But peace of mind has to exist in spite of such circumstances. And it’s been hard to come by in the past for various reasons where I live.
To be truthful I’ve been starved for decent conversation and intellectual stimulation for awhile. Not so much lately which is why I’ve had slightly less patience with my city. It’s why I spend my time on the internet and possibly why I even sought out a career centered around it. There’s no real way to explain how it feels when you find something you connect with. A piece of information. A historical figure that centers your perspective on history. A book written by someone with a unique way of expressing with prose. I was reading today about Barbara Kruger kind of reverse engineering the Supreme model turning her gallery show into a pop up. She said something very interesting and level about the predicament I think Americans are in. It’s bigger than just us. And in some ways it’s a very human thing to want to express and be understood. It’s why we make art. It’s why we write music. It’s why we craft things and design clothes. It’s why we do anything at all instead of having it done for us. In Barbara’s words, “we’re caught up in these systems of consumption, of owning, of presenting our identities through clothing or objects rather than words.” Words are pretty free and effective when they have an audience who listens. Just saying something doesn’t mean people will connect with it. Sometimes it draws out the worst in people and opinions invite confrontation and competition. I play games enough to enjoy the dynamic of winning and losing. I don’t mind losing really. I’ve lost all my life. Some people ask why I’m not more successful. I often scratch my head, look around my apartment and see what I work for every week. A place of my own to live. My friends come over and make music, play games, or just talk shit. There’s a ton of people out there year after year winning the battles but not in it for the long haul. They don’t think like I do. And it’s painfully evident sometimes when I try to open my mouth for small talk. In that sense it’s been nice to have somebody to talk to about things nobody seems to ever want to listen to. A conversation’s goal is to communicate ideas back and forth. A good conversation is almost like a feedback loop. It resonates long after it’s ended and buzzes in your head every time you cross the path of that chair in the kitchen knowingly. Like why did it take you this long to avoid that fucking chair in the first place.
Things take time. I spent the last year now completely alcohol free. I didn’t have any help. There was nobody there but me for awhile to talk to. I wrote here a lot. I gave struggle context I guess. The struggle is always going to be there. It’s called life. The fight will never end. And neither will the inspiration if you time it right. People try to force you into all sorts of things. Traditions, practices, roles, and other linear ways of thinking, herding you like cattle towards something that’s not always in your best interests. We don’t all have the same fights or battles but we all live on this planet. And we all have a right to stand our ground and catch our breath. I always thought it was best to help others and pay it forward. To create a space and community where people could actually talk for once. I never really expected to be this adrift for this long in life. For all the stability I have here, I’ve always felt taken advantage of and overlooked. It’s very easy to become jaded. It’s coming up on the anniversary of when I first set out on my own in this city for real. I was in a relationship for a very long time before that. It ended on New Year’s Eve when I moved into a barren 1300 square foot apartment and challenged my finances and my patience. I’ve failed at a lot of things. People keep expecting me to fail at more. It’s like they have a very low opinion of me yet never speak to me. Year after year they tolerate a little bit more but they have a short attention span here. I go out into public and do my little cheerleader act. It’s easier to do when these ideas just come freely. And that only comes from actual inspiration. Which I’ve had a lot of lately. It comes from somewhere. I have a high tolerance for bullshit. I’ve learned to love above all. As tough as it may be sometimes. Nothing is ever perfect at the start. It takes work. And it takes reflection to understand how you’ve grown. What has helped and what has hurt. Sometimes it takes a long time by yourself in a cocoon to get your thoughts right. Nobody can rush that. Nobody who cares about you at least. If we just listen to each other and speak to each other like human beings maybe we can learn that over time. It takes some winning and some losing. I’m done losing now to the world. But I don’t mind seeing somebody else win. I just want what’s right for everybody. Which is some peace for a change. Some time to actually have a second thought. A chance to talk it out. An actual conversation instead of an ultimatum or duel. I’ve had many this last week. I’m sure I’ll have many more. <3 Tim
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5 Things to do while Writing Your First Novel
Over on my tumblr, the wonderful invisible-galaxies asked:
"What are you best tips for writing a book? I just started writing one, so I would love some advice."
Well, my dear. Feel free to follow up here with more specific questions about your own writing process, but my first instincts (after mulling this question over since you sent it in) are as follows:
1. Congratulate yourself -- yes, already.
We're so ingrained to only celebrate ourselves, congratulate ourselves, when we have a finished product; when we have something polished and pretty and glossy; when we have something complete, and when we have extra money in our pockets from it.
But you have decided to write a book. You have started writing a book. You have, in other words, started creating something that will let you unleash an entire world onto the page, onto the screen; you have decided to bring life to an entire universe.
That deserves celebration; you deserve celebration. Because you've made a brave decision, a brave start; and because if you don't pause to celebrate yourself along the way, the journey's more likely to be overly self-loathing and lonely.
2. Write about... your writing.
Do you know what kind of novel writer you are?
Maybe you can sit down and bang out the first draft of a short story or a school essay or a project report for work, one shot, start to finish. It's linear and it's chronologically-oriented and sure, it needs editing, but it has a beginning, middle, and an end, right away.
Awesome! But that might not be the kind of novel writer you are.
Let yourself experiment -- let yourself write whatever scenes or character sketches are coming to your mind, even if you're not sure where they fit into your overall narrative. Because maybe you'll write a lot of your novel out of order (I sure did), and then have to stitch it back together/rewrite to iron things out. There's nothing wrong with that!
There's also nothing wrong with those of us who outline endlessly before even writing down the first chapter, or whose brains just work in order, getting each scene to flow into the next linearly, from the start.
Whatever your process is, let yourself discover it. Write about yourself as a writer. Ask yourself:
How do I tend to develop my characters into living, breathing people?
For me, does plot tend to come first? Characters? How do they feed off of each other?
Do I have to know everything about a scene before I write it?
Etc. Knowing these things about yourself as a writer can be such a huge help.
3. Share what you can, if Tip 2 indicates it would be helpful (and maybe try it anyway).
Grab a glass of iced tea and swing your legs off the fire escape with a friend, and talk things through with them.
Last summer, I don't know how many hours I spent in the ocean with one of my best friends, floating over waves and exchanging our novel ideas, bits and pieces of information and revelations about singing dragons, teenage superheroes, detention centers, and zine writers. I can't ever describe how central that was to my process.
These conversations weren't just conversations. When I went away to speak at conferences or to see friends, I would print his novel drafts and bring them with me, reading on the bus well past the point of motion sickness (because his writing is just that brilliant). And he would do the same for me.
Writing communities -- even if they're small -- are absolutely invaluable. Sometimes, we can find them online; sometimes, we can find them in school; sometimes, we can find them at free writing workshops in our communities.
We tend to think of writing as a solitary process, and that's so true, but it can also be a recipe for unhelpful ruminating: a lot of us need idea bouncing buddies, cheerleaders, and critique partners who will be honest but gentle when something just isn't working.
So maybe it's just me, but I can't write without the people I love, and I love the people I write with. Period.
4. Map it out.
Even if you're not a planner -- even if you write scene-by-randomly-ordered scene -- keeping yourself organized can help so, so much. I always keep documents of notes on my character descriptions, their likes and dislikes, their relationships with each other.
I have lists of "twenty personal things that readers will never know about x character."
I have fan fictions of my own characters where -- since I'm writing fantasy -- I place them in today's world, without magic, in a given situation, and learn more about them through how they'd react.
I have little maps of when this happens, when that happens. As x is happening to y character, why is a happening to b character? How does this all affect c character and d plotline? (Index cards or post-its and colored pens are super helpful for this sort of thing.)
I have drawings -- and my students will be the first to snort, here, because I cannot draw to save my life -- mapping out where different things in my book happen, and when.
I didn't do most of these things while I was initially drafting; I did most of them while I was editing and rewriting. If any of these things sound helpful, though, don't be me: try to do these kinds of exercises and explorations with yourself while you're drafting, because I know how much more streamlined and generative my process would have been, sooner, if I had.
5. Read, Read, Read, Read. Oh yeah, and write.
What genre are you writing? Young adult fantasy? Adult contemporary? Middle grade historical fiction? If you don't know, that's okay -- find out! Book research is fun. (And let me know if yall want a post about different genres, or have questions about them.)
And then, read. Read it all. All the things your library has in your genre, and all the things your library has out of your genre. I count watching certain television -- really well-written stuff, and even not-so-well-written stuff -- as reading when I'm preparing to write, because great images and stories can inspire me, and terrible images and stories can also inspire me (to make something better, to never have that kind of plot hole, to never kill the lesbian).
I know sometimes when we're writing, it's hard for us to read.
We want to keep our own voice, and we want to be, quite frankly, not intimidated by what's out there. But part of the journey you're beginning -- writing your own book -- is trying to rewire the competition-thinking that makes us intimidated into the collaborative-thinking that makes us inspired by others' beautiful work. It can be hard, and might even take longer than it does to draft your book -- but it's a worth-while process to start off on.
And, of course, while you're reading... write. It's okay if it's out of order, and it's okay if it's outlined down to the finest detail. Just... write.
If you're the kind of person that likes internal deadlines, set them. If you need an accountability buddy to help make sure you stay on track, get one.
And when you accomplish a mini-goal -- like answering a series of deep questions about your main character or finishing that first chapter and moving onto the second or finishing that random scene that doesn't fit in the plot yet but hey, you wrote it -- reward yourself!
Because -- and now we're looping up to Tip 1 again -- you are on an awesome journey, and you deserve to treat yourself awesomely.
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What follows is a version of a lecture given to the students of Columbia University’s writing programme in New York on Monday 24th March 2008. The brief: “to speak about some aspect of your craft.”
1. Macro Planners and Micro Managers
First, a caveat: what I have to say about craft extends no further than my own experience, which is what it is—12 years and three novels. Although this lecture will be divided into ten short sections meant to mark the various stages in the writing of a novel, what they most accurately describe, in truth, is the writing of my novels. That being said, I want to offer you a pair of ugly terms for two breeds of novelist: the Macro Planner and the Micro Manager.
You will recognise a Macro Planner from his Post-its, from those Moleskines he insists on buying. A Macro Planner makes notes, organises material, configures a plot and creates a structure—all before he writes the title page. This structural security gives him a great deal of freedom of movement. It’s not uncommon for Macro Planners to start writing their novels in the middle. As they progress, forwards or backwards, their difficulties multiply with their choices. I know Macro Planners who obsessively exchange possible endings for one another, who take characters out and put them back in, reverse the order of chapters and perform frequent—for me, unthinkable—radical surgery on their novels: moving the setting of a book from London to Berlin, for example, or changing the title. I can’t stand to hear them speak about all this, not because I disapprove, but because other people’s methods are always so incomprehensible and horrifying. I am a Micro Manager. I start at the first sentence of a novel and I finish at the last. It would never occur to me to choose among three different endings because I haven’t the slightest idea of the ending until I get to it, a fact that will surprise no one who has read my novels. Macro Planners have their houses largely built from day one, and so their obsession is internal—they’re forever moving the furniture. They’ll put a chair in the bedroom, the lounge, the kitchen and then back in the bedroom again. Micro Managers build a house floor by floor, discretely and in its entirety. Each floor needs to be sturdy and fully decorated with all the furniture in place before the next is built on top of it. There’s wallpaper in the hall even if the stairs lead nowhere at all.
Because Micro Managers have no grand plan, their novels exist only in their present moment, in a sensibility, in the novel’s tonal frequency line by line. When I begin a novel I feel there is nothing of that novel outside of the sentences I am setting down. I have to be very careful: the whole nature of the thing changes by the choice of a few words. This induces a special breed of pathology for which I have another ugly name: OPD or obsessive perspective disorder. It occurs mainly in the first 20 pages. It’s a kind of existential drama, a long answer to the short question What kind of a novel am I writing? It manifests itself in a compulsive fixation on perspective and voice. In one day the first 20 pages can go from first-person present tense, to third-person past tense, to third-person present tense, to first-person past tense, and so on. Several times a day I change it. Because I am an English novelist enslaved to an ancient tradition, with each novel I have ended up exactly where I began: third person, past tense. But months are spent switching back and forth. Opening other people’s novels, you recognise fellow Micro Managers: that opening pile-up of too-careful, obsessively worried-over sentences, a block of stilted verbiage that only loosens and relaxes after the 20-page mark is passed. In the case of On Beauty, my OPD spun completely out of control: I reworked those first 20 pages for almost two years. To look back at all past work induces nausea, but the first 20 pages in particular bring on heart palpitations. It’s like taking a tour of a cell in which you were once incarcerated.
Yet while OPD is happening, somehow the work of the rest of the novel gets done. That’s the strange thing. It’s as if you’re winding the key of a toy car tighter and tighter… When you finally let it go, it travels at a crazy speed. When I finally settled on a tone, the rest of the book was finished in five months. Worrying over the first 20 pages is a way of working on the whole novel, a way of finding its structure, its plot, its characters—all of which, for a Micro Manager, are contained in the sensibility of a sentence. Once the tone is there, all else follows. You hear interior decorators say the same about a shade of paint.
2. Other People’s Words, Part One
It’s such a confidence trick, writing a novel. The main person you have to trick into confidence is yourself. This is hard to do alone. I gather sentences round me, quotations, the literary equivalent of a cheerleading squad. Except that analogy’s screwy—cheerleaders cheer. I put up placards that make me feel bad. For five years I had a line from Gravity’s Rainbow stuck to my door:
“We have to find meters whose scales are unknown in the world, draw our own schematics, getting feedback, making connections, reducing the error, trying to learn the real function… zeroing in on what incalculable plot?”
At that time, I guess I thought that it was the duty of the novel to rigorously pursue hidden information: personal, political, historical. I say I guess because I don’t recognise that writer any more, and already find her idea of the novel oppressive, alien, useless. I don’t think this feeling is unusual, especially when you start out. Not long ago I sat next to a young Portuguese novelist at dinner and told him I intended to read his first novel. He grabbed my wrist, genuinely distressed, and said: “Oh, please don’t! Back then, all I read was Faulkner. I had no sense of humour. My God, I was a different person!”
That’s how it goes. Other people’s words are so important. And then without warning they stop being important, along with all those words of yours that their words prompted you to write. Much of the excitement of a new novel lies in the repudiation of the one written before. Other people’s words are the bridge you use to cross from where you were to wherever you’re going.
Recently I came across a new quote. It’s my screen saver now, my little scrap of confidence as I try to write a novel. It is a thought of Derrida’s and very simple:
“If a right to a secret is not maintained then we are in a totalitarian space.”
Which is to say: enough of human dissection, of entering the brains of characters, cracking them open, rooting every secret out! For now, this is the new attitude. Years from now, when this book is done and another begins, another change will come.
“My God, I was a different person!”—I think many writers think this, from book to book. A new novel, begun in hope and enthusiasm, grows shameful and strange to its author soon enough. After each book is done, you look forward to hating it (and you never have to wait long); there is a weird, inverse confidence to be had from feeling destroyed, because being destroyed, having to start again, means you have space in front of you, somewhere to go. Think of that revelation Shakespeare put in the mouth of King John: “Now my soul has elbow room!” Fictionally speaking, the nightmare is losing the desire to move.
3. Other People’s Words, Part Two
Some writers won’t read a word of any novel while they’re writing their own. Not one word. They don’t even want to see the cover of a novel. As they write, the world of fiction dies: no one has ever written, no one is writing, no one will ever write again. Try to recommend a good novel to a writer of this type while he’s writing and he’ll give you a look like you just stabbed him in the heart with a kitchen knife. It’s a matter of temperament. Some writers are the kind of solo violinists who need complete silence to tune their instruments. Others want to hear every member of the orchestra—they’ll take a cue from a clarinet, from an oboe, even. I am one of those. My writing desk is covered in open novels. I read lines to swim in a certain sensibility, to strike a particular note, to encourage rigour when I’m too sentimental, to bring verbal ease when I’m syntactically uptight. I think of reading like a balanced diet; if your sentences are baggy, too baroque, cut back on fatty Foster Wallace, say, and pick up Kafka, as roughage. If your aesthetic has become so refined it is stopping you from placing a single black mark on white paper, stop worrying so much about what Nabokov would say; pick up Dostoyevsky, patron saint of substance over style.
Yet you meet students who feel that reading while you write is unhealthy. Their sense is that it corrupts voice by influence and, moreover, that reading great literature creates a sense of oppression. For how can you pipe out your little mouse song when Kafka’s Josephine the Mouse Singer pipes so much more loudly and beautifully than you ever could? To this way of thinking, the sovereignty of one’s individuality is the vital thing, and it must be protected at any price, even if it means cutting oneself off from that literary echo chamber EM Forster described, in which writers speak so helpfully to one another, across time and space. Well, each to their own, I suppose.
For me, that echo chamber was essential. I was 14 when I heard John Keats in there and in my mind I formed a bond with him, a bond based on class—though how archaic that must sound, here in America. Keats was not working-class, exactly, nor black—but in rough outline his situation seemed closer to mine than the other writers I came across. He felt none of the entitlement of, say, Virginia Woolf, or Byron, or Pope, or Evelyn Waugh or even PG Wodehouse and Agatha Christie. Keats offers his readers the possibility of entering writing from a side door, the one marked “Apprentices Welcome Here.” For Keats went about his work like an apprentice; he took a kind of MFA of the mind, albeit alone, and for free, in his little house in Hampstead. A suburban, lower- middle-class boy, a few steps removed from the literary scene, he made his own scene out of the books of his library. He never feared influence—he devoured influences. He wanted to learn from them, even at the risk of their voices swamping his own. And the feeling of apprenticeship never left him: you see it in his early experiments in poetic form; in the letters he wrote to friends expressing his fledgling literary ideas; it’s there, famously, in his reading of Chapman’s Homer, and the fear that he might cease to be before his pen had gleaned his teeming brain. The term role model is so odious, but the truth is it’s a very strong writer indeed who gets by without a model kept somewhere in mind. I think of Keats. Keats slogging away, devouring books, plagiarising, impersonating, adapting, struggling, growing, writing many poems that made him blush and then a few that made him proud, learning everything he could from whomever he could find, dead or alive, who might have something useful to teach him.
4. Middle-of-the-Novel Magical Thinking
In the middle of a novel, a kind of magical thinking takes over. To clarify, the middle of the novel may not happen in the actual geographical centre of the novel. By middle of the novel I mean whatever page you are on when you stop being part of your household and your family and your partner and children and food shopping and dog feeding and reading the post—I mean when there is nothing in the world except your book, and even as your wife tells you she’s sleeping with your brother her face is a gigantic semi-colon, her arms are parentheses and you are wondering whether rummage is a better verb than rifle. The middle of a novel is a state of mind. Strange things happen in it. Time collapses. You sit down to write at 9am, you blink, the evening news is on and 4,000 words are written, more words than you wrote in three long months, a year ago. Something has changed. And it’s not restricted to the house. If you go outside, everything—I mean, everything—flows freely into your novel. Someone on the bus says something—it’s straight out of your novel. You open the paper—every single story in the paper is directly relevant to your novel. If you are fortunate enough to have someone waiting to publish your novel, this is the point at which you phone them in a panic and try to get your publication date brought forward because you cannot believe how in tune the world is with your unfinished novel right now, and if it isn’t published next Tuesday maybe the moment will pass and you will have to kill yourself.
Magical thinking makes you crazy—and renders everything possible. Incredibly knotty problems of structure now resolve themselves with inspired ease. See that one paragraph? It only needs to be moved, and the whole chapter falls into place! Why didn’t you see that before? You randomly pick a poetry book off the shelf and the first line you read ends up being your epigraph—it seems to have been written for no other reason.
5. Dismantling the Scaffolding
When building a novel you will use a lot of scaffolding. Some of this is necessary to hold the thing up, but most isn’t. The majority of it is only there to make you feel secure, and in fact the building will stand without it. Each time I’ve written a long piece of fiction I’ve felt the need for an enormous amount of scaffolding. With me, scaffolding comes in many forms. The only way to write this novel is to divide it into three sections of ten chapters each. Or five sections of seven chapters. Or the answer is to read the Old Testament and model each chapter on the books of the prophets. Or the divisions of the Bhagavad Gita. Or the Psalms. Or Ulysses. Or the songs of Public Enemy. Or the films of Grace Kelly. Or the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse. Or the liner notes to The White Album. Or the 27 speeches Donald Rumsfeld gave to the press corps during his tenure.
Scaffolding holds up confidence when you have none, reduces the despair, creates a goal—however artificial—an end point. Use it to divide what seems like an endless, unmarked journey, though by doing this, like Zeno, you infinitely extend the distance you need to go.
Later, when the book is printed and old and dog-eared, it occurs to me that I really didn’t need any of that scaffolding. The book would have been far better off without it. But when I was putting it up, it felt vital, and once it was there, I’d worked so hard to get it there I was loath to take it down. If you are writing a novel at the moment and putting up scaffolding, well, I hope it helps you, but don’t forget to dismantle it later. Or if you’re determined to leave it out there for all to see, at least hang a nice façade over it, as the Romans do when they fix up their palazzi.
6. First 20 Pages, Redux
Late in the novel, in the last quarter, when I am rolling downhill, I turn back to read those first 20 pages. They are packed tighter than tuna in a can. Calmly, I take off the top, let a little air in. What’s amusing about the first 20 pages—they are funny now, three years later, now I’m no longer locked up in them—is how little confidence you have in your readers when you begin. You spoon-feed them everything. You can’t let a character walk across the room without giving her backstory as she goes. You don’t trust the reader to have a little patience, a little intelligence. This reader, who, for all you know, has read Thomas Bernhard, Finnegans Wake, Gertrude Stein, Georges Perec—yet you’re worried that if you don’t mention in the first three pages that Sarah Malone is a social worker with a dead father, this talented reader might not be able to follow you exactly. It’s awful, the swing of the literary fraudulence pendulum: from moment to moment you can’t decide whether you’re the fraudulent idiot or your reader is the fraudulent idiot. For writers who work with character a good deal, going back to the first 20 pages is also a lesson in how much more delicate a thing character is than you think it is when you’re writing it. The idea of forming people out of grammatical clauses seems so fantastical at the start that you hide your terror in a smokescreen of elaborate sentence making, as if character can be drawn forcibly out of the curlicues of certain adjectives piled ruthlessly on top of one another. In fact, character occurs with the lightest of brushstrokes. Naturally, it can be destroyed lightly, too. I think of a creature called Odradek, who at first glance appears to be a “flat star-shaped spool for thread” but who is not quite this, Odradek who won’t stop rolling down the stairs, trailing string behind him, who has a laugh that sounds as if it has no lungs behind it, a laugh like rustling leaves. You can find the inimitable Odradek in a one-page story of Kafka’s called “The Cares of a Family Man.” Curious Odradek is more memorable to me than characters I spent three years on, and 500 pages.
7. The Last Day
There is one great advantage to being a Micro Manager rather than a Macro Planner: the last day of your novel truly is the last day. If you edit as you go along, there are no first, second, third drafts. There is only one draft, and when it’s done, it’s done. Who can find anything bad to say about the last day of a novel? It’s a feeling of happiness that knocks me clean out of adjectives. I think sometimes that the best reason for writing novels is to experience those four and a half hours after you write the final word. The last time it happened to me, I uncorked a good Sancerre I’d been keeping and drank it standing up with the bottle in my hand, and then I lay down in my backyard on the paving stones and stayed there for a long time, crying. It was sunny, late autumn, and there were apples everywhere, overripe and stinky.
8. Step Away from the Vehicle
You can ignore everything else in this lecture except number eight. It is the only absolutely 24-carat-gold-plated piece of advice I have to give you. I’ve never taken it myself, though one day I hope to. The advice is as follows.
When you finish your novel, if money is not a desperate priority, if you do not need to sell it at once or be published that very second—put it in a drawer. For as long as you can manage. A year or more is ideal—but even three months will do. Step away from the vehicle. The secret to editing your work is simple: you need to become its reader instead of its writer. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve sat backstage with a line of novelists at some festival, all of us with red pens in hand, frantically editing our published novels into fit form so that we might go onstage and read from them. It’s an unfortunate thing, but it turns out that the perfect state of mind to edit your own novel is two years after it’s published, ten minutes before you go onstage at a literary festival. At that moment every redundant phrase, each show-off, pointless metaphor, all the pieces of deadwood, stupidity, vanity and tedium are distressingly obvious to you. Two years earlier, when the proofs came, you looked at the same page and couldn’t see a comma out of place. And by the way, that’s true of the professional editors, too; after they’ve read a manuscript multiple times, they stop being able to see it. You need a certain head on your shoulders to edit a novel, and it’s not the head of a writer in the thick of it, nor the head of a professional editor who’s read it in 12 different versions. It’s the head of a smart stranger who picks it off a bookshelf and begins to read. You need to get the head of that smart stranger somehow. You need to forget you ever wrote that book.
9. The Unbearable Cruelty of Proofs
Proofs are so cruel! Breeding lilacs out of the dead land, mixing memory and desire, stirring dull roots with spring rain. Proofs are the wasteland where the dream of your novel dies and cold reality asserts itself. When I look at loose-leaf proofs, fresh out of the envelope, bound with a thick elastic band, marked up by a conscientious copy editor, I feel quite sure I would have to become a different person entirely to do the work that needs to be done here. To correct what needs correcting, fix what needs to be fixed. The only proper response to an envelope full of marked-up pages is “Give it back to me! Let me start again!” But no one says this because by this point exhaustion has set in. It’s not the book you hoped for, maybe something might yet be done—but the will is gone. There’s simply no more will to be had. That’s why proofs are so cruel, so sad: the existence of the proof itself is proof that it is already too late. I’ve only ever seen one happy proof, in King’s College Library: the manuscript of TS Eliot’s The Waste Land. Eliot, upon reaching his own point of exhaustion, had the extreme good fortune to meet Ezra Pound, a very smart stranger, and with his red pen Ezra went to work. And what work! His pen goes everywhere, trimming, cutting, slicing, a frenzy of editing, the why and wherefore not especially obvious, at times, indeed, almost ridiculous; almost, at times, indiscriminate… Whole pages struck out with a single line.
Underneath Pound’s markings, The Waste Land is a sad proof like any other—too long, full of lines not worth keeping, badly structured. Lucky Eliot, to have Ezra Pound. Lucky Fitzgerald, to have Maxwell Perkins. Lucky Carver, we now know, to have Gordon Lish. Hypocrite lecteur!—mon semblable—mon frère! Where have all the smart strangers gone?
10. Years Later: Nausea, Surprise and Feeling OK
I find it very hard to read my books after they’re published. I’ve never read White Teeth. Five years ago I tried; I got about ten sentences in before I was overwhelmed with nausea. More recently, when people tell me they have just read that book, I do try to feel pleased, but it’s a distant, disconnected sensation, like when someone tells you they met your second cousin in a bar in Goa. I suspect White Teeth and I may never be reconciled—I think that’s simply what happens when you begin writing a book at the age of 21. Then, a year ago, I was in an airport somewhere and I saw a copy of The Autograph Man, and on a whim, I bought it. On the plane I had to drink two of those mini bottles of wine before I had the stomach to begin. I didn’t manage the whole thing, but I read about two-thirds, and at that incredible speed with which you can read a book if you happen to have written it. And it was actually not such a bad experience—I laughed a few times, groaned more than I laughed and gave up when the wine wore off—but for the first time, I felt something other than nausea. I felt surprise. The book was genuinely strange to me; there were whole pages I didn’t recognise, didn’t remember writing. And because it was so strange I didn’t feel any particular animosity towards it. So that was that: between that book and me there now exists a sort of blank truce, neither pleasant nor unpleasant.
Finally, while writing this lecture, I picked up On Beauty. I read maybe a third of it, not consecutively, but chapters here and there. As usual, the nausea; as usual, the feeling of fraudulence and the too-late desire to wield the red pen all over the place—but something else, too, something new. Here and there—in very isolated pockets —I had the sense that this line, that paragraph, these were exactly what I meant to write, and the fact was, I’d written them, and I felt OK about it, felt good, even. It’s a feeling I recommend to all of you. That feeling feels OK.
This lecture appears in her new collection “Changing My Mind: Occasional Essays” (Hamish Hamilton). © Zadie Smith
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How I learned I was #blackgirlmagic
I’ve never really sat and thought about what it means to be a woman of color in science. My environment has always included intelligent, strong, black females and to me that was the norm. I was born and raised in Dominica, a small island in the Caribbean (NOT the Dominican Republic) and I attended an all girls’ catholic high school. Black women were my teachers, spiritual leaders, coaches and role models. Being in a class of thirty bright minds fostered a healthy competitive spirit and left me with friendships that still exist today. At the age of fifteen you do not really appreciate the role these women and girls play in your life, but looking back, being surrounded by them influenced the person I’m becoming.
Women are just as capable as men, no one taught me this. It was common sense, if we have the same opportunities and we both have a brain, why shouldn’t we be? Growing up, when taking exams at the national and regional level where my competition now included males I never thought twice about being any less capable. As far as I was concerned I was just as good if not better. Don’t get me wrong, I’m no genius and I’m pretty average but I’ve always been a good student.
In 2007 at the age of eighteen, I moved to Baltimore, Maryland to attend Morgan State University (MSU). Morgan belongs to a group of academic institutions termed historically black colleges and universities (HBCU’s) where both the faculty and students are predominantly black. Most of these institutions were established after the American Civil War to serve African American communities, but have always been open to all races. Prior to moving to the United States I’d never heard of an HBCU and over the past ten years I’ve described attending an HBCU as living in a bubble. And at that point in my life, I think I needed that. It was hard enough adjusting to life in a city like Baltimore.
Despite having totally different backgrounds, at Morgan everyone looks like you, everyone is treated equally and skin color never played a part in my college experience. This was probably not the case for everyone but I was sheltered because I seldom left my bubble. My teachers, deans, provost, president were all strong powerful black men and women. So when my general biology professor talked about being black and being a black woman in America, growing up black, dealing with racism and being one of the only black students when doing her PhD I really couldn’t relate. I didn’t understand their struggle because honestly I hadn’t experienced it. Growing up black in Dominica is totally different from growing up black in America and so my HBCU experience wasn’t like most of my fellow students.
Recently, a white man asked me if there was slavery in the Caribbean and I looked at him dumbfounded. There are almost 40 million people living in the Caribbean and this educated man didn’t have a clue how we got there, and we both live in the same hemisphere. Once I stopped judging him in my head I explained to him that yes, our countries were also built on the backs of slaves. However, unlike countries like Trinidad, Guyana and Jamaican where you see a lot of diversity among the people, in Dominica everyone looks pretty similar. Yes our complexions vary but at the end of the day we all call ourselves black. Racism did not exist, which is why even at an HBCU where I looked like my peers I didn’t see race the way a young black man who grew up in Alabama saw race. For me, the most difficult thing about being black in America was being away from home and just trying to figure out who I was, something that didn’t involve the color of my skin back then.
Once I overcame my initial doubts (self-doubt is something I’m still working on) and stopped underestimating my abilities I was able to excel at Morgan. I didn’t see it then but not only did MSU provide a solid foundation and help boost my confidence in my academic abilities, it gave me a glimpse into what many people may now call black girl magic. My teachers included strong black women and I attended conferences such as the National Organization for the Professional Advancement of Black Chemists and Chemical Engineers, where black women ran things. Over the course of my undergraduate career seeing black women in positions of prestige in academia was normal. At Morgan, I was no longer the girl from the Caribbean just trying to keep her scholarship; I was the Chemistry major who knew her stuff and who did research and was good at it. However, through all that I never saw myself as a woman doing well, much less as a black woman doing well. It was simply Melissa, expected to do well and getting it done.
Fast-forward to 2011 when I moved to Gainesville, Florida for graduate school and my bubble popped. University of Florida (UF) was nothing like Morgan. It is a predominantly white institution (PWI) and in a class of over 30 PhD students there were only two black people, including myself. For the first time in my life I was a minority, and self-doubt started creeping in, and I felt extremely alone. I was a small fish in a very big pond and the familiarity and support that existed at Morgan was gone. And my doubt had nothing to do with the color of my skin and that’s because the same way I was never taught boys are better than girls I was also never taught white people are smarter than black people.
This probably saved me in grad school, because had I been doubting myself based on skin color or what these people though of me I’d have been a basket case. My self-doubt was because these people seemed so damn smart and experienced; some had worked in industry, gotten master’s degrees, or been doing research for years and here I was feeling all-good about myself because I got a couple awards in undergrad. I remember calling my mom telling her be prepared I’m going to fail out and I’ll be home soon, sorry for being a disappointment (this was all before the first test). However, my mother is my biggest cheerleader and prayer warrior and so she ignored me like she normally does when I say these things. She probably said something like: “Melissa I know what you’re capable of and you’ll be fine, God is in control (West Indian mom lingo101).”
In the Caribbean its ingrained in you at a young age that you can’t fail and you don’t quit. However, growing up I was a lot harder on myself than my own parents, and they were often the ones telling me to relax. On the day of my Common Entrance Examination (an exam that allows Caribbean students to move on to high school) my dad took me to the river at 6 am for a swim so that I would just relax and stop panicking. Yes, at ten years old I was already that hard on myself. I’ve always been competitive and for that first year of grad school I was just trying to keep my head in the game and not disappoint all the people who believed in me. Looking back, I wish I could tell my 23 year old self: “CHILL, listen to more Kartel and go have a drink!”
The first year of grad school was the toughest and though I came in with a strong chemistry background all the biology material I was presented with was sometimes overwhelming. Chemistry and math had always made sense, and biology just wasn’t my favorite. I made it through the first year, did pretty well actually and kept that fellowship. And like at Morgan I found my footing and did well, my project worked, my lab environment was great, I made good friends, learned hard lessons and apart from Gainesville, being the most boring place ever, life was good. I have no horrible PhD stories and sometimes I feel guilty about it. I have a lot of friends who’ve gone (and are still going) through some tough times. My PhD mentor was great and I enjoyed my PhD experience. Not many PhD candidates can say they graduated with almost twenty peer-reviewed publications and for that I’m grateful and also very lucky (also another story).
Even though I attended a PWI in Florida I still lived in a bubble; not the kind of bubble I experienced in Baltimore but a bubble nonetheless. I hadn’t experienced blatant racism, just the usual stares or stereotypical questions and comments. My former mentor is white but his wife holds a PhD in Biophysics and is a brilliant black woman at the top of her field; she is also the only black faculty member in the Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology. She may not see it because she is also extremely humble but she is the perfect example of “black girl magic” and to me this was all so normal. Of course black women were killing it in science and engineering why wouldn’t they its all I had seen since moving to the U.S. Granted, I saw less of it in Florida and even though it bothered me that most of the black women I saw in my building were janitors who others wouldn’t even take the time to greet, it was ok because I knew we existed. And then Trayvon Martin was killed, and it never stopped. Michael Brown, Tamir Rice, Eric Garner, John Crawford and we know how it goes. I’m not naïve, I know oppression and racism didn’t end with slavery and I know this had ben going on in America for years but I was now experiencing it first hand. And over the past 5 years I’ve come to understand what it means to be black in America and I’ve also learnt slavery didn’t end just because it was abolished. It doesn’t matter if you’re an MD, CEO or lawyer, all certain people see is the color of your skin. I finally understood what my undergrad professor was talking about. Seeing young black men and women being targeted because their hue was slightly different was my rude awakening.
It came to the point where watching movies like 12 Years a Slave filled me with so much anger that I’d need extra time to myself before talking to others at work. I left every movie asking why, watched every breaking news update and every not-guilty verdict and just asked “but how?” I’ve always being quick to correct others when they called me African American because I’m extremely proud of my West Indian heritage. “I’m not from this country, I’m West Indian!” However, I’ve learned, that in America it doesn’t matter what kind of black you are, racists see in black and white and if you’re black you’re beneath them. For the first time in my life I was being told that I was not equal to a certain group of people and that I was not as qualified. After more than twenty years I was being taught what some children had been told all their lives. It has left me angry, filled with hate, hurt and so confused, not because I believe them but because somewhere there is a child who’s accepted this as their fate. Also because I know its not the truth.
This week I saw the film Hidden Figures, which tells the story of three exceptionally brilliant black women who worked at NASA in the 1960s, at a time when segregation still existed in the state of Virginia. The movie focuses on the critical roles they played in the launch of the astronaut John Glen into orbit using their skills in mathematics and physics. Despite the rave reviews I’d seen I wasn’t excited about this movie. I entered the movie theater with the mindset that this would just be another film that would leave me filled with anger and asking, “why do black people have to endure so much?” This movie made me angry; the way these women were treated solely because of the color of their skin and lady parts was ridiculous and let my blood boil but it also made me realize how much I take for granted. My circle is filled with women in science that I’ve met over the years: chemists, civil engineers, nuclear engineers, immunologists, mechanical engineers, physicists and biochemists; we do it because its what we love and what we’ve always done. I am a black woman with a PhD in Biochemistry in the field of X-ray crystallography and there are not a lot of us (I checked the numbers). Like I said, I’ve always seen black women doing extraordinary things so I’ve never dwelled on how long it took us to get here. Its not about not playing the race card (a term I despise), its just that I know that a black woman is just as capable. I have the kind of parents who think I’m capable of anything I put my mind to, some days I doubt myself but they never do and more black girls need that growing up. This movie left me feeling empowered on a day where once again I had been questioning my abilities and worrying about my future. All women need to see this movie whether you’re a scientist or economist or you’re just trying to figure it out; this movie is for all of us.
Currently I work as a research scientist at the National Institutes of Health, as an X-ray crystallographer and most days I still find myself asking “Melissa what do you want to be when you grow up, what do you want to contribute with this skill-set?” Not too long ago, I went to the store on campus to buy a couple items for the lab with my white lab mates and at the register, I shared “the nod” and a smile with the cashier, a forty-something year old black woman and placed my items on the counter. She then asked me if I was a doctor and I responded yes without much thought of it and paid for my items. When we were done with my transaction she told me how proud she was of me and thanked me on behalf of her family for all my work. I had never met this woman and she had no idea what my research entailed but the fact a black woman was a doctor and was trying to make a difference filled her with pride. I hadn’t thought about that moment much but I remembered it after watching the movie and I realized how blessed I was and how grateful I should be.
I may not think what I’m doing for a living is a big deal, most days its just a job where I do experiments that may not work, or where I question what I’ll do with this PhD. Other days a band on a western blot and a protein crystal in a drop make me smile, and I meet intelligent people who make me want to do better. But there are a lot of people out there, who look up not to me but to the idea of people like me. I have a community of people who are rooting for my black girl magic friends and I because it is still an amazing thing to see.
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50 Top Things To Do in Japan’s Coolest City
Tokyo can never get boring—it has a plethora of bucket list worthy things to do and fun attractions to visit. While I was in Japan’s top city, I ate beef that was creatively shaped like a brain, served to me inside of my private jail cell by women dressed in pink nurses’ outfits. I drank my coffee next to a dozen felines at a quirky cat café, confirming my preference for dogs. And I found out exactly what all the buttons on the Japanese toilet do (enjoying some outcomes much more than others).
There are not many places that would provide such peculiar and cool forms of entertainment, but Tokyo is a city of many colorful facets; a mix of avant-garde and traditional. It is a town where the illuminated skyscrapers cohabitate with historic temples, unusual anime shops and cherry blossom lined streets. It is a cool destination where your itinerary can include attending a lively tuna auction hours before daybreak, nightlife that can include eating skewers of yakitori in the seedy Piss Alley or scrambling across one of the biggest intersections in the world with hundreds of others.
In other words the city is freaking fabulous and here are the best things to do in Tokyo:
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1. Buy Some Vinyl at HMV Records
Tokyo is a paradise for Vinyl Lovers! They have more record shops than any other city in the world with new collections brought in every month. HMV Records is a huge store filled with Vinyl Records. We recommend you bring along plenty of cash because you will surely get lost amidst aisles of wonder records making you nostalgic and rekindling your passion for music. This vast second-hand record shop has plenty of items and genres for music lovers. They also have a handful of cassettes with a special corner for them along with CDs.
2. Experience TeamLab Borderless
It’s hard to explain TeamLab Borderless, you really have to experience it. The digital art museum is an immersive world where the artwork has no boundaries. There is no map or ‘right way to go’, you move freely from room to room of three-dimensional 10,000 square meter building exploring and discovering. You will find things like the Athletic Forest that helps you think of the world three-dimensionally and, the most instagrammed room, the forest of lamps where hundreds hang from the ceilings. Book your ticket here.
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3. Watch Wrestling Practice at a Sumo Stable
You can’t fully understand the intensity of the sumo wrestling sport unless you are up close and personal at an intense morning practice session to witness the panting, grunting and dripping sweat. The practices at the sumo wrestling stable are not attractions created for tourists—the athletes are not putting on a show for you—they are in serious training and need to be shown respect while you are there.
Though there are over 40 training stables, most in the Ryogoku district, only a few accept visitors. The most common are Kasugano Beya, Takasago Beya and Musashigawa Beya. Make sure to call ahead to confirm that they will be having practice on the day you arrive! Or for an even easier option just book a Morning Sumo Training tour, or take a peek at this list of sumo related experience that you can quickly book online.
If you don’t speak Japanese seeing a practice on your own may be a little tricky (I went to Hakkaku Sumo Stable and needed a translator). But, it was worth the effort because seeing this Japanese tradition was definitely one of the Top 10 things I did in Tokyo!
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4. See a Professional Sumo Match
Sumo is the world famous Japanese style wrestling match which began in ancient times as a ritual to entertain the Shinto deities. And after you’ve seen them practice at the sumo stable, witness the traditional sport live and in all its glory! During the tournament months (January, May and September) you can get tickets for each day of the 15-day tournaments, or just one. I highly recommend the ringside seats which is the closest seating available to the wrestling ring with cushions on the floor.
It’s possible to find a few seats available on tournament day, but it’s best to get them in advance. You can see upcoming tournaments and book tickets here.
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5. Make a Stop at Meiji Shrine
The historical significance of the Meiji Shrine cannot be overstated. The shrine was made for the first emperor of modern Japan – Emperor Meiji. You enter this austere and mystical place through a 40-foot high tori gate and find yourself surrounded by a 200-acre park with a 100,000 trees. Wow!
The cleansing station has a communal water tank for purification of the hand and mouth before offering prayers. You can also write your wishes and tie them up to the prayer wall. The Meiji Jingu Treasure House is at the northern end of the shrine where you will find several personal belongings of the Emperor, as well as a beautiful Inner Garden with blooming flowers and a rustic well.
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6. Attend a Baseball Game
The game of baseball isn’t just one of America’s favorite pastime, the Japanese are passionate about it too. Things are just done a bit differently when you attend a baseball game in Japan, like waving umbrellas for home runs, snacking on edamame and having cheerleaders. Though the Yomiuri Giants at the Tokyo Dome draw larger crowds, you can also see the Tokyo Swallows play at the outdoor Jingu Stadium.
It may be possible to snag some tickets on the day of the game, but not guaranteed! So, if seeing a Japanese baseball game is high on your things to do list then buy tickets to a game online.
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7. Go to Dinner at a Ninja Restaurant
At Ninja Shinjuku a small robot in the corner starts to speak to you as a sliding door opens and leads you down a narrow hallway. Shoji doors open and lead you to a small room where dinner is served. This is not the kitschy place where spry ninjas pop down from the ceiling and serve mediocre food, it’s more of a molecular gastronomy experience where smoke billows out of a box to uncover a beautifully executed salad and Kobe beef is served with a trio of unique dipping sauces.
Dessert was served inside a basement room, along with a “ninja show” which really was more like a magic show—impressive none the less. But what was even more impressive was the bonsai tree dessert whose branches needed to be trimmed with scissors in order to eaten and the base was a sweet crumb that looked just like dirt. Genius.
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8. Go to the Intermediatheque Museum
The Intermediatheque (IMT) Museum is a psychedelic world of its own. Located in the Kitte Marunouchi building near the Tokyo Station, you’ll find yourself lost amidst the ancient wonders and treasures left behind for us by extinct civilizations. From early steam engines to Egyptian mummies, this kaleidoscopic wonderland has everything preserved and on display. Get inspired by the tribal art or see your kids’ faces light up by the wildlife specimens and the 19th century raconteurs of flora and fauna.
Allow yourself at least half a day to absorb the richness and literary brilliance of this place!
9. Play a Game of Pachinko
Pachinko is a Japanese arcade game where the object is to fire balls that will then fall through a maze of metal pins. Try to capture as many balls as possible into the center hole. If you walk through the Shinjuku district, you won’t be able to miss the Pachinko Parlors with their flashing neon and clinking of the balls. It can be an addictive, yet fun thing to do in Tokyo!
Understanding the game of Pachinko can be tricky without lessons or guidance from someone who knows the in-and-outs. You can book the Original Japanese Entertainment tour and you’ll get a half hour lesson along with playing time.
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10. Spend the Night in the Hello Kitty Room
You don’t need to be a diehard Hello Kitty fan to enjoy this must see (and sleep in) room. Slink over to Shinjuku and spend the night in the fun Hello Kitty Room at Keio Plaza Hotel. The room is decked out in the cats signature decor and you can even get yourself breakfast with kitty shaped/stamped food.
11. Walk Across Shibuya Crossing
The iconic Shibuya Crossing is on most visitors “things to do in Tokyo” attraction itinerary because it is dubbed as the busiest intersection in the world, which means it won’t be difficult to find yourself there when it’s insanely packed. While crowds may not be something you wish for your everyday life, trust me, you’ll want participate in the organized chaos that ensues when hundreds of people walk across the intersection at once.
For a different perspective, watch the crossing from the 2nd-story window of the Starbucks on the North side or from the 47th floor of Shibuya Scramble Square building. For an even more unique bucket list experience, walk Shibuya crossing in a kimono. Don’t forget to check out the famous Hachiko Statue right between the intersection and Shibuya Station before you set on your way! And perhaps commit yourself to some window shopping at Shibuya’s massive record stores after?
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12. Try Batto, the ‘Art of Swordsmanship’
Batto, the art of swordsmanship, is a discipline that very few have mastered, but at HiSUi Tokyo you will be one step closer as you take their comprehensive course with a real katana (a long, single-edged sword used by samurai). These techniques and swords were vital in order for the samurai to protect the community and reigning lords.
13. Get the View at Shibuya Sky
Make your way to the tall Shibuya Scramble Square building and climb to the 47th floor, to the Shibuya Sky. This rooftop observatory will get you a stunning 360-degree panoramic view of the city. You can even see the chaos of the famous Shibuya Crossing from way up there.
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14. Unleash Your Inner Anime Fan!
Japan is the birthplace of anime, the Japanese term for animation, so while you’re there make the most of it! If you’re an anime fan then there are so many shops that sell anime products, like Mandarake in Shibuya, as well as themed cafes (here are 8 good ones!) for you to explore. Even if you’re not a fan then it is still amazing to go and immerse yourself in the culture.
15. Stroll Through Yoyogi Park
Taking a walk through Yoyogi Park is a grand experience all on its own. You’ll be setting foot on the ground which represents the ancient facets of Japan, as it was once a site of military barracks, and even served as an Olympics Gymnasium in 1964. The park is divided in two parts by a wide road, one side of which is a dense forest area where people usually take their strolls and enjoy the natural beauty of the place, have picnics and barbecues. The latter has a stadium and an outdoor stage that hold exclusive events and food festivals.
16. Attend a Kabuki Theater Show
Kabuki is a unique form of Japanese theater where they combine song, mime, dance, costume design and elaborate makeup that is typically performed solely by men. At Kabuki-za you can buy Single Act tickets just to get an introduction to the style of theater, or opt for the whole show. It’s easy to get your tickets online here.
17. Get a Photo of the Giant Godzilla Head
Godzilla is thankfully not wreaking havoc on the streets of Tokyo anymore, but you can still see him peeking through the 8th floor of Hotel Gracery in the Toho Building. The Godzilla Head is a popular attraction in Shinjuku with its giant 39-foot reptilian head, piercing eyes and sharp pointy teeth! You can see him from the busy street 130-feet below, or take the elevator up to get a closer peek. Keep your eyes open for the new Godzilla Viewing Room coming in the Spring.
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18. Learn About the History at Edo-Tokyo Museum
Edo is Tokyo’s old name, and the Edo-Tokyo Museum conserves the historical culture and traditions of the city. It almost felt as if I was approaching a UFO when walking towards the building, but then I learnt that the architecture was inspired by the old Tokyo warehouse raised on stilts—it has an ultramodern feel to it with a lot of character. During my 2-hour tour, I marveled at the handcrafted figurines with unique clothing and expressions, the massive cavern room, the replica of Nihonbashi Bridge, recreations of houses and transports of the ancient people, market areas and stage settings of theatrical performances. The place will be your guide to understanding how Tokyo evolved to be one of the most influential cities of the world.
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19. Sing Karaoke
What to do in Tokyo for nightlife? Karaoke, of course. It is a big part of their culture and a huge attraction tourists as well as locals. Tokyo has plenty of fun (& sometimes weird) Karaoke bars where you can belt out a few tunes. One of the more well-known is Karaoke Kan, which was the location for Bill Murray’s singing session in the movie Lost in Translation. But, there are other clubs as well, and you can find some top ones here: 10 of the Best Bars in Tokyo for Karaoke and Other Weird Stuff.
20. See the Tokyo Tower at Night
The Tokyo Tower is the second tallest architectural wonder of Japan. Standing at a height of 1092 feet, the tower glimmers with lights and serves as one of the symbolic features of the city. It is a true marvel to see at the night time, especially because the illumination themes change according to seasons and occasions. You can see it from afar (here are the best place to do it) or you can also go up to the special observation deck and get a night time view of the city (book your ticket here). It is a sight you’ll never forget!
21. Get an Umbrella at Cool Magic SHU’s Umbrella Shop
A store solely dedicated to umbrellas? Yep, that’s exactly what Cool Magic Shu’s is. It may take you hours of perusing the aisles to find your perfectly designed rain protection, but it will be fun doing it!
22. Use all the Buttons on a Japanese Toilet
I’m sure your asking yourself, “can a toilet really be worthy of a spot on your Tokyo Things to Do in Tokyo Bucket List“? Yes, in this case it can. A Japanese commode isn’t any ordinary potty, it’s like a spa for your private parts. Not only will your butt be warm with their seated heats, but they can also clean your derrière with a hot stream of water. Plus, many public restroom stalls will play the sounds of chirping birds to mask any other noises that may be happening! Luckily, you can experience these toilets at many restaurants, hotels and public attractions.
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23. Visit the Red & White Cats at Gotokuji Temple
The Gotokuji Temple is a place that comes with a highly engaging, legendary tale of the maneki neko–the beckoning cats. They are believed to bring good luck and are a symbolic figure of the temple. The visitors make offerings and prayers in front of thousands of red and white cat statues. The kitties are all wearing a red collar with a hanging golden bell and a paw raised in the air to bring you good fortune! You’ll also find cat art in the neighborhood leading up to the temple—a treat for all the cat lovers out there.
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24. Do a Kimono Fitting
Wearing a kimono is a large part of the Japanese culture. A kimono is a traditional Japanese garment that is typically worn by women on special occasions. There are few places to be fitted for a kimono while traveling to Tokyo, but you can find a couple. My personal tour guide, Tomomi, offers private fittings in her home (this is my story about it: Do a Kimono Fitting in Tokyo, Japan), whereas you can book one of these two tours with Voyagin:
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25. Visit the Imperial Palace
The Imperial Palace is the place of residence of Japan’s Imperial family. It has a beautiful park area surrounded by grand stone walls and moats in the center of Tokyo. The main Palace area is open only on the New Year’s Greeting Event on January 2nd and the Emperor’s Birthday on the 23rd of December, but the palace exterior grounds are open for public throughout the year. There are two bridges that can be viewed right from the Kokyo Gaien plaza that’s right out from the the palace and the Imperial Palace East Gardens are amongst the best places for a stroll.
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26. Buy a Japanese Knife
Japanese knives are known to be some of the best in the world due to there keen edges, quality of steel and made-by-hand techniques. Being a restaurateur, I could not leave Tokyo without bringing one home with me! Though I bought mine at Masahisa, there are plenty of other reputable knife shops around town. You can try walking down Kappabashi Street, the kitchen district. Not only will you find plenty of knife shops, but you will also find every kitchen product imaginable, including plastic food samples used as window displays by many restaurants. For more help, read: How and Where to Buy Knives in Tokyo.
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27. Walk Across the Rainbow Bridge
The iconic Rainbow Bridge of Japan got its name because in the month December it’s lit up like a rainbow. The suspension bridge has a pedestrian pathway on both its north and south ends. It is free to take a walk across and takes about 25 minutes on foot, but you can also go on a bicycle. The north route has breathtaking views of the Tokyo Tower along with stunning skyscrapers around Roppongi and Toranomon, Toyosu and the Shiodome area. The south route offers views of Odaiba as well as the neighboring islands and the Shinagawa area.
28. Relax at an Onsen
Relaxing in a hot springs bath, an onsen, is a top Japanese tradition that you don’t want to miss. There are plenty of them in Tokyo (you can see some of the best ones here), but Ooedo Onsen Monogatari is a popular one because it’s an onsen theme park where you can soak in one of their baths, get your fortune told and/or have a foot massage. There’s plenty of entertainment on the premises to keep you occupied for at least an afternoon.
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29. Go to Tokyo Disneyland
Welcome to the happiest place in the world—Disneyland Tokyo edition! It is highly recommended that you spend at least 2 days here to enjoy all the wonderful attractions and food. There are several fun attractions unique to Tokyo Disneyland, like Dream Lights with a magical nighttime light parade (Minnie oh! Minnie!), the interactive Monster’s Inc. Ride & Go Seek and Western River Railroad to name a few.
You can book admission tickets and transfers here. Also consider splurging a little by staying at the Tokyo Disneyland Hotel which is at a short walk from the theme park and comes with many perks.
30. Visit 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT
If you are a fan of unique design then stopping at the 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT is a must! This contemporary design exhibition hall is the brain child of fashion designer Issey Miyake and architect Tadao Ando. It’s located in Tokyo’s midtown, an upscale section in the Roppongi area of the city.
The beauty of this places starts with the exterior architecture and moves about through the different gallery spaces. The artwork changes with some of the themes being things like “Secret Source of Inspiration: Designers’ Hidden Sketches and Mockups” and “Chocolate” that focused on the unique social attributes related to chocolate.
During my visit they had a beautiful chair exhibit, each designed by current and former members of the Japan Design Committee. The best part was that you were encouraged to sit in them all!
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31. Visit the Meguro Parasitological Museum
The Meguro Parasitological Museum is one of a kind, and the only one in existence that displays the weirdly fascinating collection from the world of parasites! It is a unique experience that you’ll carry with you all your life, although if parasites make you feel squeamish, you may need to cover your eyes because the skin crawling museum has parasites from all facets of life on display in hundreds of jars. Even though it sounds gross, you’re bound to be intrigued by its bizarreness, and it may even end up being top of your favorite thing to do in Tokyo!
32. Go to a Maid Cafe
Maid cafés are all the buzz in Japan! They are fun cosplay restaurants where waitresses are dressed up as working maids to serve the customers as a master in a private home rather than as a café patron. The key word is “iyashi” that translates into “to be soothed”.
Your quintessential Victorian maid fantasy will come to life with spa like services, scrumptious food along with relaxing classical music while you are enveloped by verdurous greenery! There are numerous maid cafés in Tokyo (you can see some of the top ones here), each offering a unique service with the cutest undertones like chanting “moe moe kyun” to make your drinks taste better or writing over your food with ketchup! It is definitely something to look out for.
If you don’t want to navigate a maid cafe on your own, you can book one of these tours with Voyagin: Akihabara Tour with Your Own Personal Maid! or Enjoy Maid Cafe Maidreamin in Akihabara.
33. Go to a Cat Cafe
Tokyo is filled with weird things to do and going to a cat cafe ranks really high on that list. Calico Cat Cafe in Shinjuku is an attraction that gives you the opportunity to play with unique feline breeds while drinking a cup of coffee. So odd that it’s definitely worth a spot on your things to do in Tokyo bucket list itinerary. If you prefer, you can also play with cute hedgehogs in Roppongi!
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34. Dine in a Jail Cell
Most people would avoid (at all costs) dining in a jail cell, but Alcatraz ER will give you an offbeat dining experience of a lifetime. This restaurant is designed as a jail and each cell or prison represents a dining area for a group. Staff that are well dressed in nurse uniforms tend to the call of the bang of a metal rod against the cells bars.
Brave diners (like myself!) will nosh on things like blue curry served in a urine tin or drink cocktails out of dummy’s head. Can you ever imagine eating sausage in the shape of bowel movement; well this place has more quirkiness to offer than you can imagine. A must have nightlife experience for your Tokyo itinerary even you prefer not to visit again.
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35. Go to Yasukuni Shrine
The Yasukuni Shrine is the most interesting and possibly the most controversial place in Japan. Founded in 1869, this place is said to hold 2.5 million shrines! It was made in honor of the men who lost their lives in the Boshin War and has expanded to include war martyrs since then.
The entrance of the shrine is made from a massive gray metal Daicihi Torii standing at a height of 72 feet and giving it an eerie feel. The arch then gets smaller with a Daini Torii which is the second shrine gate, and the Shinmon gate which leads into the area of shrine. The Chumon Torrii then leads into the main hall. Photography isn’t allowed but there is a lot to take in with rich cultural significance and a war museum.
36. See a Show at the Robot Restaurant
From the moment you enter The Robot Restaurant lounge to the time you depart, you will feel like you are diving into the colors of neon that bounce off the mirrors. There are dramatic fights between bikini clad girls riding atop robots, the sound of the cast playing the charismatic drums and visitors are given a glow-stick to cheer during all the action.
This place is more dedicated to a flashy show than on food, but you can order a sushi bento box or caramel popcorn to dine on while you are entertained. Plus, flowing beer and a few drinks are available, but the core attraction is the captivating chaos of the show.
Though you can buy tickets at the door, you can get them at a discount by booking in advanced at Voyagin.
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37. Indulge in a Massive Matcha Dessert
Offbeat food in Tokyo is not limited to main meals, but extends to sweet desserts too, and some of the most popular is made from matcha, a green tea. Desserts like ice-cream, mousse, cream, jelly and many more variations are available. But, I say if you are going to do it go big! I ordered this this quadruple layered matcha gateaux chocolate parfait that was topped with an entire piece of cake! Yes, I ate the whole thing! No shame.
The most popular hot spots serving these delectable and divine tasting desserts are Kinozen, Marunouchi Café, Nana’s Green Tea (that’s where I ate) and many more.
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38. Attend a Tuna Auction
You will need to wake up really early for a chance to go to the famous tuna auction at Tsukiji Fish Market (folks start lining up before 4am). But, it will be worth getting an insiders view of the buyers checking the fish quality and bidding for their prize one. After, explore Tsukiji’s inner and outer market where you can watch them expertly cut the large tunas they just purchased.
You can go on your own or book a tour:
39. Participate in a Traditional Japanese Tea Ceremony
Happo-en Japanese Garden sits in Shirokanedai district of Tokyo and is an exquisite example of natural beauty with its ancient bonsai, koi pond and blanket of cherry blossoms in the Springtime. Not only is it a beautiful representation of a Japanese garden, but you can schedule to participate in a traditional Japanese tea ceremony where you will be drinking Matcha in their wooden Muan tea house.
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40. Bar Hop in Golden Gai
What’s a trip to Tokyo without a little nightlife? Golden Gai is a neighborhood in the Shinjuku ward of Tokyo that squeezes in over 200 miniature bars into a network of six narrow alleys, made only for pedestrians. Enjoy the unique Japanese nightlife by bar hopping in the section of town where most of the drinking holes only seat 8-12 people total. Ready to go? Get the location here or just book a Kabukicho and Shinjuku Golden Gai Night Tour.
Want to read more about bar hopping in Golden Gai? See this article—Shinjuku Nightlife: A Guide to Tokyo’s Best Golden Gai Bars.
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41. Learn to Make Classic Japanese Ramen at Chagohan
You can eat ramen all over the city, but how about learning to make it? At Chagohan you can learn this skill (and dine on it afterwards!).
FYI: This isn’t the only ramen cooking class, there are re plenty of others and you can see a list at Cookly.
42. Eat at the Kill Bill Inspiration Restaurant
Gonpachi restaurant, in the Roppongi district of Tokyo, is known as being the inspiration for the fight scene from the Kill Bill movie and it’s easy to spot the similarities. Not only can you enjoy the interior design, but you can also indulge in a bowl of Soba.
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43. Make Your Own Matcha at the Urasando Garden Mini-Mall
The Urasando Garden is a collection of shops within a traditional Japanese–style house giving you the ultimate kick of nostalgia as soon as you enter. It gets its name from its unique location at the back street of Omotesando, hence the name Urasando meaning “ura” – back and “omote” – front.
There are many fun things to do and shops to explore, but what makes the best visit is being able to make your own matcha. You can choose your own cup and blend your own matcha alongside houjicha-flavored chocolate and cream filled breads!
44. Eat Chankonabe (Sumo Wrestlers Stew)
Chankonabe is the nutritious stew that sumo wrestlers eat daily as part of their bulking up diet. It is a hearty dish that is relatively healthy, low in fat, high in protein and filled with tons of veggies. There are many Chankonabe restaurants in Tokyo, conveniently located close to the sumo stables where the wrestlers practice and live. But, Yoshiba is the most unique because it is located in an old sumo stable with a sumo dohyo (ring) right in the center of the dining room (this is where I had my chankonabe experience in Tokyo).
If you’re interested in booking a tour instead of navigate somewhere to each chankonabe here are a couple highly rate ones:
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45. Drink a Cat Coffee at Oshiage Nyanko
Are you a cat person who loves coffee? This quaint little café boasts stuff dreams are made of! Tucked away in a tiny pocket-sized treasure cove, this hidden gem is located near the Tokyo Sky Tree. You will be amazed at the wonderful 3D latte art of “Oshiage Nyanko”. Although the café isn’t that prominent, it is so famous that you can easily find it.
46. Take a Sushi Making Class
If you are a sushi lover, what better thing to do in Tokyo than learn how to make it? I got a personal sushi lesson with Tokyo Tours with Tomomi, where we first paid a visit to Tsukiji Fish Market to pick up some fresh tuna for our meal and went to her private home to assemble. Viator also offers a fabulous Sushi Making and Tsukiji Fish Market tour. The best part is when you are rewarded by getting to eat your efforts. Afterwards you can wash it all down with sake by booking a sake tasting.
You can find many more sushi making options at Cookly.
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47. Go to a Ping-Pong Restaurant
Tokyo is filled with quirky dining options and The Rally Table is one of them. It’s ‘Game On’ at this restaurant where table tennis is the centerpiece of the room. So pop on in, order yourself a plate of the ping pong curry and play a game or two. FYI: It gets pretty lively at night, but during lunch it’s mostly business men so you’ll have a better chance at playing a game.
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48. Eat at a Yakiniku Restaurant
This bucket list activity is for all the carnivores out there. At a Yakiniku (grilled meat) restaurant in Tokyo you will be barbecuing your choice of raw grub on your own table top grill. If you choose to have your dining experience at the highly rated Yakiniku Jumbo Shirogane, you will be indulging in A5 Kuroge Wagyu, the highest rank of Japanese beef. Or you can try some of Tokyo’s other tasty yakiniku restaurants.
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49. Explore the Ghibli Museum
If you have seen Spirited Away, and loved it, then the Ghibli Museum absolutely needs to be visited by you! The creator of the movies, Hayao Miyazaki, also had a hand in creating the visuals of this museum, helping make it one of the most visually stunning museums in the world. Even if it’s just for a moment, you’ll have landed right in the middle of one of his movies!
50. Eat Grilled Salamander (and other delicious stuff) in Piss Alley
Piss Alley, also known as Omoide Yokocho (or Memory Lane), is best described as the restaurant version of Golden Gai, a section that squeezes in over 200 miniature bars into a network of six narrow alleys. Piss Alley is a small area filled with quaint yakitori restaurants, and a few drinking holes, most with just a handful of seats.
If you are an adventurous eater head over to Asadachi, a name that translates to Morning Wood, where you will get the privilege of tasting Grilled Salamander. Yes! Salamander! Maybe not the best food in the world, but visitors who love to challenge their eating habits visit this restaurant for the most bizarre meal. Here you can also try pig testicles, frog shasimi, raw pig testicles and snake liquor. Yum!
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51. Stay in a Capsule Hotel
These pint-sized pods have become popular for those that want something trendy, easy and economical. There are several all around Tokyo, but one of the top ones is Capsule Net Omotenashi.
52. Get Your Meal From a Vending Machine
You heard right — eat a meal from a vending machine! One of Japan’s greatest inventions, definitely not only limited to being found in Tokyo, are the vending machines at just about every corner. You can barely walk a block in Tokyo without passing by a half dozen vending machines. Though most are filled with an array of beverages, many will have food products that can easily make a meal. The list includes special items like flying fish soup, eggs, hot dogs, hamburgers, sushi, ramen and so on. My afternoon lunch of warm corn soup was surprisingly tasty!
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53. Go to an Owl Café
Oh, what a hoot! Ever thought of having an eye staring contest with an owl? Here in Tokyo, everything is possible! One minute you are strolling through parks the next you have an owl named Peanut perched on your arm! These quirky cafés (here are 7 to choose from) are almost always packed with customers, and you need to be very careful around the majestic owls. No flash photography or sudden movements allowed!
54. Sleep in a Ryokan
For a unique cultural experience stay at a ryokan, an old-school Japanese inn typically with tatami-matted rooms, low tables, and communal baths. Ryokan Sawanoya will give you this traditional feeling or opt for the updated Andon Ryokan.
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55. Discover Sensoji Temple
Another historically significant spot in the middle of Tokyo, Sensoji Temple is the oldest religious site in all of Tokyo. Not only that, but is one of the more gorgeous temples to visit, based on its exterior. Right after visiting the temple, check out the shops by Nakamise Dori, on your way back to the station.
. . .
Truth be told, there is far more to see and do in Tokyo that could ever be written down in a post, unless you want to read pages and pages worth of bullet point suggestions. But these are some amazing activities to get started from, especially if you’ve only got a few days to yourself to explore the city. And after you’ve gone once, you’ll find yourself wanting to go back, again and again, and there will always be more to see. That’s really half the fun of it! So, what are you still waiting for? Time to book your plane tickets and go!
Essential Tips for Visiting Tokyo
Getting There: Narita and Haneda International Airport are both major hubs but most international flights will land at Narita Airport. You can easily check for the best fare deals at Skyscanner, which also has the option to choose ‘cheapest month’ as the departure to find the lowest priced dates to fly to your destination. Although Haneda International Airport is located closer to central Tokyo, there are fewer transportation options from the airport to central Tokyo. There are plenty of public transportation options from Narita International Airport to the city center. From Narita International Airport, you can take the a taxi, bus, the JR Narita Express, or the Keisei Skyliner. From Haneda International Airport, you can take a Keikyu Taxi, the Keikyu Limousine Bus, the Keikyu Line and JR Yamanote Line, or the Tokyo Monorail and JR Yamanote Line.
Where to Stay in Tokyo: With so many wards in Tokyo, choosing a hotel location can be mind-boggling. But, if you want to be where the action is, Shinjuku or Shibuya may be the best district to stay for your first visit; both are conveniently located with easy access to shop-ping, restaurants, nightlife, and public transport. Plus, they look like the Tokyo you typically see on television with bustling streets, towering skyscrapers, and flashy neon lights. In Shinjuku the JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom is just a three-minute walk from the south exit of Shinjuku station. For a more budget-friendly gem try Tokyu Stay that has locations throughout the city including Shinjuku and Shibuya.
If you want to venture to other wards, the Tokyo Station Hotel is conveniently located in the heart of the city and right above the Tokyo JR station.If you want to avoid the bustle of the city, head off the beaten path to the original boutique hotel, Claska. The Daiwa Roynet Hotel Shimbashi (moderate) or Act Hotel Roppongi (moderate) are great choices in the Minato Ward district. For a less expensive option, try the Book and Bed Tokyo Asakusa, a unique hostel experience. Or try the ICI Hotel Kanda by Relief if you’re looking for a less expensive, traditional hotel. For a hotel with a little more extravagance, book a room at the Prince Park Tower Tokyo, or the Hilton Tokyo Hotel. Or search some great deals on hotels of your choice at Booking.com. If you’re looking for more of a home atmosphere (or are traveling with a group of people), head over to Airbnb that has houses, apartments and even just a room for rent in every price range.
Getting Around: Driving in Tokyo can be a bit of a challenge and parking fees can be expensive, but if you choose to rent a car, RentalCars.com has great deals. If you are not renting a car, there are plenty of options. Taxis are available all over the city. Although Uber is available in Tokyo, it is not commonly used. Download the JapanTaxi app prior to your trip to hail a taxi right from your device. Tokyo also has a great subway and train system that is easy to use. You can buy a pass in advance and have it delivered to your hotel. Be sure to download Hyperdia, an app that helps you navigate Tokyo’s subway and train system. Additionally, most of the top attractions can be accessed with the 24-hour Hop-On Hop-Off Bus.
Best Tours in Tokyo: You can find some of the top tours at Get Your Guide or Viator, and here are some of the top ones:
Insurance: It’s always a good idea to travel fully insured so you are protected in case of trip cancellations or medical emergencies. You can check out pricing at Travelex Insurance.
Universal Adapter: Your American plugged equipment will need an adapter. I use the Celtic Universal Adapter, which has brought me around the world with no problems.
More Tokyo Articles
4 of the Best Day Trips from Tokyo Japanese Culture & Tradition Facts: 11 Etiquette Tips Before You Go Tokyo Food: 13 Themed (& Slightly Weird) Cafe & Restaurant Experiences Japan’s Hottest Show: Tokyo’s Robot Restaurant in Shinjuku Watch Wrestling Practice at a Sumo Stable in Japan Visit Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market Shinjuku Nightlife: A Guide to Tokyo’s Best Golden Gai Bars Best Quirky Café in Japan? Tokyo’s Calico Cat Café in Shinjuku Eat at a Themed Restaurant in Tokyo
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50 Top Things To Do in Japan’s Coolest City
Tokyo can never get boring—it has a plethora of bucket list worthy things to do and fun attractions to visit. While I was in Japan’s top city, I ate beef that was creatively shaped like a brain, served to me inside of my private jail cell by women dressed in pink nurses’ outfits. I drank my coffee next to a dozen felines at a quirky cat café, confirming my preference for dogs. And I found out exactly what all the buttons on the Japanese toilet do (enjoying some outcomes much more than others).
There are not many places that would provide such peculiar and cool forms of entertainment, but Tokyo is a city of many colorful facets; a mix of avant-garde and traditional. It is a town where the illuminated skyscrapers cohabitate with historic temples, unusual anime shops and cherry blossom lined streets. It is a cool destination where your itinerary can include attending a lively tuna auction hours before daybreak, nightlife that can include eating skewers of yakitori in the seedy Piss Alley or scrambling across one of the biggest intersections in the world with hundreds of others.
In other words the city is freaking fabulous and here are the best things to do in Tokyo:
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1. Buy Some Vinyl at HMV Records
Tokyo is a paradise for Vinyl Lovers! They have more record shops than any other city in the world with new collections brought in every month. HMV Records is a huge store filled with Vinyl Records. We recommend you bring along plenty of cash because you will surely get lost amidst aisles of wonder records making you nostalgic and rekindling your passion for music. This vast second-hand record shop has plenty of items and genres for music lovers. They also have a handful of cassettes with a special corner for them along with CDs.
2. Experience TeamLab Borderless
It’s hard to explain TeamLab Borderless, you really have to experience it. The digital art museum is an immersive world where the artwork has no boundaries. There is no map or ‘right way to go’, you move freely from room to room of three-dimensional 10,000 square meter building exploring and discovering. You will find things like the Athletic Forest that helps you think of the world three-dimensionally and, the most instagrammed room, the forest of lamps where hundreds hang from the ceilings. Book your ticket here.
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3. Watch Wrestling Practice at a Sumo Stable
You can’t fully understand the intensity of the sumo wrestling sport unless you are up close and personal at an intense morning practice session to witness the panting, grunting and dripping sweat. The practices at the sumo wrestling stable are not attractions created for tourists—the athletes are not putting on a show for you—they are in serious training and need to be shown respect while you are there.
Though there are over 40 training stables, most in the Ryogoku district, only a few accept visitors. The most common are Kasugano Beya, Takasago Beya and Musashigawa Beya. Make sure to call ahead to confirm that they will be having practice on the day you arrive! Or for an even easier option just book a Morning Sumo Training tour, or take a peek at this list of sumo related experience that you can quickly book online.
If you don’t speak Japanese seeing a practice on your own may be a little tricky (I went to Hakkaku Sumo Stable and needed a translator). But, it was worth the effort because seeing this Japanese tradition was definitely one of the Top 10 things I did in Tokyo!
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4. See a Professional Sumo Match
Sumo is the world famous Japanese style wrestling match which began in ancient times as a ritual to entertain the Shinto deities. And after you’ve seen them practice at the sumo stable, witness the traditional sport live and in all its glory! During the tournament months (January, May and September) you can get tickets for each day of the 15-day tournaments, or just one. I highly recommend the ringside seats which is the closest seating available to the wrestling ring with cushions on the floor.
It’s possible to find a few seats available on tournament day, but it’s best to get them in advance. You can see upcoming tournaments and book tickets here.
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5. Make a Stop at Meiji Shrine
The historical significance of the Meiji Shrine cannot be overstated. The shrine was made for the first emperor of modern Japan – Emperor Meiji. You enter this austere and mystical place through a 40-foot high tori gate and find yourself surrounded by a 200-acre park with a 100,000 trees. Wow!
The cleansing station has a communal water tank for purification of the hand and mouth before offering prayers. You can also write your wishes and tie them up to the prayer wall. The Meiji Jingu Treasure House is at the northern end of the shrine where you will find several personal belongings of the Emperor, as well as a beautiful Inner Garden with blooming flowers and a rustic well.
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6. Attend a Baseball Game
The game of baseball isn’t just one of America’s favorite pastime, the Japanese are passionate about it too. Things are just done a bit differently when you attend a baseball game in Japan, like waving umbrellas for home runs, snacking on edamame and having cheerleaders. Though the Yomiuri Giants at the Tokyo Dome draw larger crowds, you can also see the Tokyo Swallows play at the outdoor Jingu Stadium.
It may be possible to snag some tickets on the day of the game, but not guaranteed! So, if seeing a Japanese baseball game is high on your things to do list then buy tickets to a game online.
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7. Go to Dinner at a Ninja Restaurant
At Ninja Shinjuku a small robot in the corner starts to speak to you as a sliding door opens and leads you down a narrow hallway. Shoji doors open and lead you to a small room where dinner is served. This is not the kitschy place where spry ninjas pop down from the ceiling and serve mediocre food, it’s more of a molecular gastronomy experience where smoke billows out of a box to uncover a beautifully executed salad and Kobe beef is served with a trio of unique dipping sauces.
Dessert was served inside a basement room, along with a “ninja show” which really was more like a magic show—impressive none the less. But what was even more impressive was the bonsai tree dessert whose branches needed to be trimmed with scissors in order to eaten and the base was a sweet crumb that looked just like dirt. Genius.
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8. Go to the Intermediatheque Museum
The Intermediatheque (IMT) Museum is a psychedelic world of its own. Located in the Kitte Marunouchi building near the Tokyo Station, you’ll find yourself lost amidst the ancient wonders and treasures left behind for us by extinct civilizations. From early steam engines to Egyptian mummies, this kaleidoscopic wonderland has everything preserved and on display. Get inspired by the tribal art or see your kids’ faces light up by the wildlife specimens and the 19th century raconteurs of flora and fauna.
Allow yourself at least half a day to absorb the richness and literary brilliance of this place!
9. Play a Game of Pachinko
Pachinko is a Japanese arcade game where the object is to fire balls that will then fall through a maze of metal pins. Try to capture as many balls as possible into the center hole. If you walk through the Shinjuku district, you won’t be able to miss the Pachinko Parlors with their flashing neon and clinking of the balls. It can be an addictive, yet fun thing to do in Tokyo!
Understanding the game of Pachinko can be tricky without lessons or guidance from someone who knows the in-and-outs. You can book the Original Japanese Entertainment tour and you’ll get a half hour lesson along with playing time.
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10. Spend the Night in the Hello Kitty Room
You don’t need to be a diehard Hello Kitty fan to enjoy this must see (and sleep in) room. Slink over to Shinjuku and spend the night in the fun Hello Kitty Room at Keio Plaza Hotel. The room is decked out in the cats signature decor and you can even get yourself breakfast with kitty shaped/stamped food.
11. Walk Across Shibuya Crossing
The iconic Shibuya Crossing is on most visitors “things to do in Tokyo” attraction itinerary because it is dubbed as the busiest intersection in the world, which means it won’t be difficult to find yourself there when it’s insanely packed. While crowds may not be something you wish for your everyday life, trust me, you’ll want participate in the organized chaos that ensues when hundreds of people walk across the intersection at once.
For a different perspective, watch the crossing from the 2nd-story window of the Starbucks on the North side or from the 47th floor of Shibuya Scramble Square building. For an even more unique bucket list experience, walk Shibuya crossing in a kimono. Don’t forget to check out the famous Hachiko Statue right between the intersection and Shibuya Station before you set on your way! And perhaps commit yourself to some window shopping at Shibuya’s massive record stores after?
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12. Try Batto, the ‘Art of Swordsmanship’
Batto, the art of swordsmanship, is a discipline that very few have mastered, but at HiSUi Tokyo you will be one step closer as you take their comprehensive course with a real katana (a long, single-edged sword used by samurai). These techniques and swords were vital in order for the samurai to protect the community and reigning lords.
13. Get the View at Shibuya Sky
Make your way to the tall Shibuya Scramble Square building and climb to the 47th floor, to the Shibuya Sky. This rooftop observatory will get you a stunning 360-degree panoramic view of the city. You can even see the chaos of the famous Shibuya Crossing from way up there.
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14. Unleash Your Inner Anime Fan!
Japan is the birthplace of anime, the Japanese term for animation, so while you’re there make the most of it! If you’re an anime fan then there are so many shops that sell anime products, like Mandarake in Shibuya, as well as themed cafes (here are 8 good ones!) for you to explore. Even if you’re not a fan then it is still amazing to go and immerse yourself in the culture.
15. Stroll Through Yoyogi Park
Taking a walk through Yoyogi Park is a grand experience all on its own. You’ll be setting foot on the ground which represents the ancient facets of Japan, as it was once a site of military barracks, and even served as an Olympics Gymnasium in 1964. The park is divided in two parts by a wide road, one side of which is a dense forest area where people usually take their strolls and enjoy the natural beauty of the place, have picnics and barbecues. The latter has a stadium and an outdoor stage that hold exclusive events and food festivals.
16. Attend a Kabuki Theater Show
Kabuki is a unique form of Japanese theater where they combine song, mime, dance, costume design and elaborate makeup that is typically performed solely by men. At Kabuki-za you can buy Single Act tickets just to get an introduction to the style of theater, or opt for the whole show. It’s easy to get your tickets online here.
17. Get a Photo of the Giant Godzilla Head
Godzilla is thankfully not wreaking havoc on the streets of Tokyo anymore, but you can still see him peeking through the 8th floor of Hotel Gracery in the Toho Building. The Godzilla Head is a popular attraction in Shinjuku with its giant 39-foot reptilian head, piercing eyes and sharp pointy teeth! You can see him from the busy street 130-feet below, or take the elevator up to get a closer peek. Keep your eyes open for the new Godzilla Viewing Room coming in the Spring.
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18. Learn About the History at Edo-Tokyo Museum
Edo is Tokyo’s old name, and the Edo-Tokyo Museum conserves the historical culture and traditions of the city. It almost felt as if I was approaching a UFO when walking towards the building, but then I learnt that the architecture was inspired by the old Tokyo warehouse raised on stilts—it has an ultramodern feel to it with a lot of character. During my 2-hour tour, I marveled at the handcrafted figurines with unique clothing and expressions, the massive cavern room, the replica of Nihonbashi Bridge, recreations of houses and transports of the ancient people, market areas and stage settings of theatrical performances. The place will be your guide to understanding how Tokyo evolved to be one of the most influential cities of the world.
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19. Sing Karaoke
What to do in Tokyo for nightlife? Karaoke, of course. It is a big part of their culture and a huge attraction tourists as well as locals. Tokyo has plenty of fun (& sometimes weird) Karaoke bars where you can belt out a few tunes. One of the more well-known is Karaoke Kan, which was the location for Bill Murray’s singing session in the movie Lost in Translation. But, there are other clubs as well, and you can find some top ones here: 10 of the Best Bars in Tokyo for Karaoke and Other Weird Stuff.
20. See the Tokyo Tower at Night
The Tokyo Tower is the second tallest architectural wonder of Japan. Standing at a height of 1092 feet, the tower glimmers with lights and serves as one of the symbolic features of the city. It is a true marvel to see at the night time, especially because the illumination themes change according to seasons and occasions. You can see it from afar (here are the best place to do it) or you can also go up to the special observation deck and get a night time view of the city (book your ticket here). It is a sight you’ll never forget!
21. Get an Umbrella at Cool Magic SHU’s Umbrella Shop
A store solely dedicated to umbrellas? Yep, that’s exactly what Cool Magic Shu’s is. It may take you hours of perusing the aisles to find your perfectly designed rain protection, but it will be fun doing it!
22. Use all the Buttons on a Japanese Toilet
I’m sure your asking yourself, “can a toilet really be worthy of a spot on your Tokyo Things to Do in Tokyo Bucket List“? Yes, in this case it can. A Japanese commode isn’t any ordinary potty, it’s like a spa for your private parts. Not only will your butt be warm with their seated heats, but they can also clean your derrière with a hot stream of water. Plus, many public restroom stalls will play the sounds of chirping birds to mask any other noises that may be happening! Luckily, you can experience these toilets at many restaurants, hotels and public attractions.
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23. Visit the Red & White Cats at Gotokuji Temple
The Gotokuji Temple is a place that comes with a highly engaging, legendary tale of the maneki neko–the beckoning cats. They are believed to bring good luck and are a symbolic figure of the temple. The visitors make offerings and prayers in front of thousands of red and white cat statues. The kitties are all wearing a red collar with a hanging golden bell and a paw raised in the air to bring you good fortune! You’ll also find cat art in the neighborhood leading up to the temple—a treat for all the cat lovers out there.
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24. Do a Kimono Fitting
Wearing a kimono is a large part of the Japanese culture. A kimono is a traditional Japanese garment that is typically worn by women on special occasions. There are few places to be fitted for a kimono while traveling to Tokyo, but you can find a couple. My personal tour guide, Tomomi, offers private fittings in her home (this is my story about it: Do a Kimono Fitting in Tokyo, Japan), whereas you can book one of these two tours with Voyagin:
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25. Visit the Imperial Palace
The Imperial Palace is the place of residence of Japan’s Imperial family. It has a beautiful park area surrounded by grand stone walls and moats in the center of Tokyo. The main Palace area is open only on the New Year’s Greeting Event on January 2nd and the Emperor’s Birthday on the 23rd of December, but the palace exterior grounds are open for public throughout the year. There are two bridges that can be viewed right from the Kokyo Gaien plaza that’s right out from the the palace and the Imperial Palace East Gardens are amongst the best places for a stroll.
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26. Buy a Japanese Knife
Japanese knives are known to be some of the best in the world due to there keen edges, quality of steel and made-by-hand techniques. Being a restaurateur, I could not leave Tokyo without bringing one home with me! Though I bought mine at Masahisa, there are plenty of other reputable knife shops around town. You can try walking down Kappabashi Street, the kitchen district. Not only will you find plenty of knife shops, but you will also find every kitchen product imaginable, including plastic food samples used as window displays by many restaurants. For more help, read: How and Where to Buy Knives in Tokyo.
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27. Walk Across the Rainbow Bridge
The iconic Rainbow Bridge of Japan got its name because in the month December it’s lit up like a rainbow. The suspension bridge has a pedestrian pathway on both its north and south ends. It is free to take a walk across and takes about 25 minutes on foot, but you can also go on a bicycle. The north route has breathtaking views of the Tokyo Tower along with stunning skyscrapers around Roppongi and Toranomon, Toyosu and the Shiodome area. The south route offers views of Odaiba as well as the neighboring islands and the Shinagawa area.
28. Relax at an Onsen
Relaxing in a hot springs bath, an onsen, is a top Japanese tradition that you don’t want to miss. There are plenty of them in Tokyo (you can see some of the best ones here), but Ooedo Onsen Monogatari is a popular one because it’s an onsen theme park where you can soak in one of their baths, get your fortune told and/or have a foot massage. There’s plenty of entertainment on the premises to keep you occupied for at least an afternoon.
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29. Go to Tokyo Disneyland
Welcome to the happiest place in the world—Disneyland Tokyo edition! It is highly recommended that you spend at least 2 days here to enjoy all the wonderful attractions and food. There are several fun attractions unique to Tokyo Disneyland, like Dream Lights with a magical nighttime light parade (Minnie oh! Minnie!), the interactive Monster’s Inc. Ride & Go Seek and Western River Railroad to name a few.
You can book admission tickets and transfers here. Also consider splurging a little by staying at the Tokyo Disneyland Hotel which is at a short walk from the theme park and comes with many perks.
30. Visit 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT
If you are a fan of unique design then stopping at the 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT is a must! This contemporary design exhibition hall is the brain child of fashion designer Issey Miyake and architect Tadao Ando. It’s located in Tokyo’s midtown, an upscale section in the Roppongi area of the city.
The beauty of this places starts with the exterior architecture and moves about through the different gallery spaces. The artwork changes with some of the themes being things like “Secret Source of Inspiration: Designers’ Hidden Sketches and Mockups” and “Chocolate” that focused on the unique social attributes related to chocolate.
During my visit they had a beautiful chair exhibit, each designed by current and former members of the Japan Design Committee. The best part was that you were encouraged to sit in them all!
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31. Visit the Meguro Parasitological Museum
The Meguro Parasitological Museum is one of a kind, and the only one in existence that displays the weirdly fascinating collection from the world of parasites! It is a unique experience that you’ll carry with you all your life, although if parasites make you feel squeamish, you may need to cover your eyes because the skin crawling museum has parasites from all facets of life on display in hundreds of jars. Even though it sounds gross, you’re bound to be intrigued by its bizarreness, and it may even end up being top of your favorite thing to do in Tokyo!
32. Go to a Maid Cafe
Maid cafés are all the buzz in Japan! They are fun cosplay restaurants where waitresses are dressed up as working maids to serve the customers as a master in a private home rather than as a café patron. The key word is “iyashi” that translates into “to be soothed”.
Your quintessential Victorian maid fantasy will come to life with spa like services, scrumptious food along with relaxing classical music while you are enveloped by verdurous greenery! There are numerous maid cafés in Tokyo (you can see some of the top ones here), each offering a unique service with the cutest undertones like chanting “moe moe kyun” to make your drinks taste better or writing over your food with ketchup! It is definitely something to look out for.
If you don’t want to navigate a maid cafe on your own, you can book one of these tours with Voyagin: Akihabara Tour with Your Own Personal Maid! or Enjoy Maid Cafe Maidreamin in Akihabara.
33. Go to a Cat Cafe
Tokyo is filled with weird things to do and going to a cat cafe ranks really high on that list. Calico Cat Cafe in Shinjuku is an attraction that gives you the opportunity to play with unique feline breeds while drinking a cup of coffee. So odd that it’s definitely worth a spot on your things to do in Tokyo bucket list itinerary. If you prefer, you can also play with cute hedgehogs in Roppongi!
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34. Dine in a Jail Cell
Most people would avoid (at all costs) dining in a jail cell, but Alcatraz ER will give you an offbeat dining experience of a lifetime. This restaurant is designed as a jail and each cell or prison represents a dining area for a group. Staff that are well dressed in nurse uniforms tend to the call of the bang of a metal rod against the cells bars.
Brave diners (like myself!) will nosh on things like blue curry served in a urine tin or drink cocktails out of dummy’s head. Can you ever imagine eating sausage in the shape of bowel movement; well this place has more quirkiness to offer than you can imagine. A must have nightlife experience for your Tokyo itinerary even you prefer not to visit again.
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35. Go to Yasukuni Shrine
The Yasukuni Shrine is the most interesting and possibly the most controversial place in Japan. Founded in 1869, this place is said to hold 2.5 million shrines! It was made in honor of the men who lost their lives in the Boshin War and has expanded to include war martyrs since then.
The entrance of the shrine is made from a massive gray metal Daicihi Torii standing at a height of 72 feet and giving it an eerie feel. The arch then gets smaller with a Daini Torii which is the second shrine gate, and the Shinmon gate which leads into the area of shrine. The Chumon Torrii then leads into the main hall. Photography isn’t allowed but there is a lot to take in with rich cultural significance and a war museum.
36. See a Show at the Robot Restaurant
From the moment you enter The Robot Restaurant lounge to the time you depart, you will feel like you are diving into the colors of neon that bounce off the mirrors. There are dramatic fights between bikini clad girls riding atop robots, the sound of the cast playing the charismatic drums and visitors are given a glow-stick to cheer during all the action.
This place is more dedicated to a flashy show than on food, but you can order a sushi bento box or caramel popcorn to dine on while you are entertained. Plus, flowing beer and a few drinks are available, but the core attraction is the captivating chaos of the show.
Though you can buy tickets at the door, you can get them at a discount by booking in advanced at Voyagin.
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37. Indulge in a Massive Matcha Dessert
Offbeat food in Tokyo is not limited to main meals, but extends to sweet desserts too, and some of the most popular is made from matcha, a green tea. Desserts like ice-cream, mousse, cream, jelly and many more variations are available. But, I say if you are going to do it go big! I ordered this this quadruple layered matcha gateaux chocolate parfait that was topped with an entire piece of cake! Yes, I ate the whole thing! No shame.
The most popular hot spots serving these delectable and divine tasting desserts are Kinozen, Marunouchi Café, Nana’s Green Tea (that’s where I ate) and many more.
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38. Attend a Tuna Auction
You will need to wake up really early for a chance to go to the famous tuna auction at Tsukiji Fish Market (folks start lining up before 4am). But, it will be worth getting an insiders view of the buyers checking the fish quality and bidding for their prize one. After, explore Tsukiji’s inner and outer market where you can watch them expertly cut the large tunas they just purchased.
You can go on your own or book a tour:
39. Participate in a Traditional Japanese Tea Ceremony
Happo-en Japanese Garden sits in Shirokanedai district of Tokyo and is an exquisite example of natural beauty with its ancient bonsai, koi pond and blanket of cherry blossoms in the Springtime. Not only is it a beautiful representation of a Japanese garden, but you can schedule to participate in a traditional Japanese tea ceremony where you will be drinking Matcha in their wooden Muan tea house.
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40. Bar Hop in Golden Gai
What’s a trip to Tokyo without a little nightlife? Golden Gai is a neighborhood in the Shinjuku ward of Tokyo that squeezes in over 200 miniature bars into a network of six narrow alleys, made only for pedestrians. Enjoy the unique Japanese nightlife by bar hopping in the section of town where most of the drinking holes only seat 8-12 people total. Ready to go? Get the location here or just book a Kabukicho and Shinjuku Golden Gai Night Tour.
Want to read more about bar hopping in Golden Gai? See this article—Shinjuku Nightlife: A Guide to Tokyo’s Best Golden Gai Bars.
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41. Learn to Make Classic Japanese Ramen at Chagohan
You can eat ramen all over the city, but how about learning to make it? At Chagohan you can learn this skill (and dine on it afterwards!).
FYI: This isn’t the only ramen cooking class, there are re plenty of others and you can see a list at Cookly.
42. Eat at the Kill Bill Inspiration Restaurant
Gonpachi restaurant, in the Roppongi district of Tokyo, is known as being the inspiration for the fight scene from the Kill Bill movie and it’s easy to spot the similarities. Not only can you enjoy the interior design, but you can also indulge in a bowl of Soba.
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43. Make Your Own Matcha at the Urasando Garden Mini-Mall
The Urasando Garden is a collection of shops within a traditional Japanese–style house giving you the ultimate kick of nostalgia as soon as you enter. It gets its name from its unique location at the back street of Omotesando, hence the name Urasando meaning “ura” – back and “omote” – front.
There are many fun things to do and shops to explore, but what makes the best visit is being able to make your own matcha. You can choose your own cup and blend your own matcha alongside houjicha-flavored chocolate and cream filled breads!
44. Eat Chankonabe (Sumo Wrestlers Stew)
Chankonabe is the nutritious stew that sumo wrestlers eat daily as part of their bulking up diet. It is a hearty dish that is relatively healthy, low in fat, high in protein and filled with tons of veggies. There are many Chankonabe restaurants in Tokyo, conveniently located close to the sumo stables where the wrestlers practice and live. But, Yoshiba is the most unique because it is located in an old sumo stable with a sumo dohyo (ring) right in the center of the dining room (this is where I had my chankonabe experience in Tokyo).
If you’re interested in booking a tour instead of navigate somewhere to each chankonabe here are a couple highly rate ones:
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45. Drink a Cat Coffee at Oshiage Nyanko
Are you a cat person who loves coffee? This quaint little café boasts stuff dreams are made of! Tucked away in a tiny pocket-sized treasure cove, this hidden gem is located near the Tokyo Sky Tree. You will be amazed at the wonderful 3D latte art of “Oshiage Nyanko”. Although the café isn’t that prominent, it is so famous that you can easily find it.
46. Take a Sushi Making Class
If you are a sushi lover, what better thing to do in Tokyo than learn how to make it? I got a personal sushi lesson with Tokyo Tours with Tomomi, where we first paid a visit to Tsukiji Fish Market to pick up some fresh tuna for our meal and went to her private home to assemble. Viator also offers a fabulous Sushi Making and Tsukiji Fish Market tour. The best part is when you are rewarded by getting to eat your efforts. Afterwards you can wash it all down with sake by booking a sake tasting.
You can find many more sushi making options at Cookly.
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47. Go to a Ping-Pong Restaurant
Tokyo is filled with quirky dining options and The Rally Table is one of them. It’s ‘Game On’ at this restaurant where table tennis is the centerpiece of the room. So pop on in, order yourself a plate of the ping pong curry and play a game or two. FYI: It gets pretty lively at night, but during lunch it’s mostly business men so you’ll have a better chance at playing a game.
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48. Eat at a Yakiniku Restaurant
This bucket list activity is for all the carnivores out there. At a Yakiniku (grilled meat) restaurant in Tokyo you will be barbecuing your choice of raw grub on your own table top grill. If you choose to have your dining experience at the highly rated Yakiniku Jumbo Shirogane, you will be indulging in A5 Kuroge Wagyu, the highest rank of Japanese beef. Or you can try some of Tokyo’s other tasty yakiniku restaurants.
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49. Explore the Ghibli Museum
If you have seen Spirited Away, and loved it, then the Ghibli Museum absolutely needs to be visited by you! The creator of the movies, Hayao Miyazaki, also had a hand in creating the visuals of this museum, helping make it one of the most visually stunning museums in the world. Even if it’s just for a moment, you’ll have landed right in the middle of one of his movies!
50. Eat Grilled Salamander (and other delicious stuff) in Piss Alley
Piss Alley, also known as Omoide Yokocho (or Memory Lane), is best described as the restaurant version of Golden Gai, a section that squeezes in over 200 miniature bars into a network of six narrow alleys. Piss Alley is a small area filled with quaint yakitori restaurants, and a few drinking holes, most with just a handful of seats.
If you are an adventurous eater head over to Asadachi, a name that translates to Morning Wood, where you will get the privilege of tasting Grilled Salamander. Yes! Salamander! Maybe not the best food in the world, but visitors who love to challenge their eating habits visit this restaurant for the most bizarre meal. Here you can also try pig testicles, frog shasimi, raw pig testicles and snake liquor. Yum!
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51. Stay in a Capsule Hotel
These pint-sized pods have become popular for those that want something trendy, easy and economical. There are several all around Tokyo, but one of the top ones is Capsule Net Omotenashi.
52. Get Your Meal From a Vending Machine
You heard right — eat a meal from a vending machine! One of Japan’s greatest inventions, definitely not only limited to being found in Tokyo, are the vending machines at just about every corner. You can barely walk a block in Tokyo without passing by a half dozen vending machines. Though most are filled with an array of beverages, many will have food products that can easily make a meal. The list includes special items like flying fish soup, eggs, hot dogs, hamburgers, sushi, ramen and so on. My afternoon lunch of warm corn soup was surprisingly tasty!
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53. Go to an Owl Café
Oh, what a hoot! Ever thought of having an eye staring contest with an owl? Here in Tokyo, everything is possible! One minute you are strolling through parks the next you have an owl named Peanut perched on your arm! These quirky cafés (here are 7 to choose from) are almost always packed with customers, and you need to be very careful around the majestic owls. No flash photography or sudden movements allowed!
54. Sleep in a Ryokan
For a unique cultural experience stay at a ryokan, an old-school Japanese inn typically with tatami-matted rooms, low tables, and communal baths. Ryokan Sawanoya will give you this traditional feeling or opt for the updated Andon Ryokan.
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55. Discover Sensoji Temple
Another historically significant spot in the middle of Tokyo, Sensoji Temple is the oldest religious site in all of Tokyo. Not only that, but is one of the more gorgeous temples to visit, based on its exterior. Right after visiting the temple, check out the shops by Nakamise Dori, on your way back to the station.
. . .
Truth be told, there is far more to see and do in Tokyo that could ever be written down in a post, unless you want to read pages and pages worth of bullet point suggestions. But these are some amazing activities to get started from, especially if you’ve only got a few days to yourself to explore the city. And after you’ve gone once, you’ll find yourself wanting to go back, again and again, and there will always be more to see. That’s really half the fun of it! So, what are you still waiting for? Time to book your plane tickets and go!
Essential Tips for Visiting Tokyo
Getting There: Narita and Haneda International Airport are both major hubs but most international flights will land at Narita Airport. You can easily check for the best fare deals at Skyscanner, which also has the option to choose ‘cheapest month’ as the departure to find the lowest priced dates to fly to your destination. Although Haneda International Airport is located closer to central Tokyo, there are fewer transportation options from the airport to central Tokyo. There are plenty of public transportation options from Narita International Airport to the city center. From Narita International Airport, you can take the a taxi, bus, the JR Narita Express, or the Keisei Skyliner. From Haneda International Airport, you can take a Keikyu Taxi, the Keikyu Limousine Bus, the Keikyu Line and JR Yamanote Line, or the Tokyo Monorail and JR Yamanote Line.
Where to Stay in Tokyo: With so many wards in Tokyo, choosing a hotel location can be mind-boggling. But, if you want to be where the action is, Shinjuku or Shibuya may be the best district to stay for your first visit; both are conveniently located with easy access to shop-ping, restaurants, nightlife, and public transport. Plus, they look like the Tokyo you typically see on television with bustling streets, towering skyscrapers, and flashy neon lights. In Shinjuku the JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom is just a three-minute walk from the south exit of Shinjuku station. For a more budget-friendly gem try Tokyu Stay that has locations throughout the city including Shinjuku and Shibuya.
If you want to venture to other wards, the Tokyo Station Hotel is conveniently located in the heart of the city and right above the Tokyo JR station.If you want to avoid the bustle of the city, head off the beaten path to the original boutique hotel, Claska. The Daiwa Roynet Hotel Shimbashi (moderate) or Act Hotel Roppongi (moderate) are great choices in the Minato Ward district. For a less expensive option, try the Book and Bed Tokyo Asakusa, a unique hostel experience. Or try the ICI Hotel Kanda by Relief if you’re looking for a less expensive, traditional hotel. For a hotel with a little more extravagance, book a room at the Prince Park Tower Tokyo, or the Hilton Tokyo Hotel. Or search some great deals on hotels of your choice at Booking.com. If you’re looking for more of a home atmosphere (or are traveling with a group of people), head over to Airbnb that has houses, apartments and even just a room for rent in every price range.
Getting Around: Driving in Tokyo can be a bit of a challenge and parking fees can be expensive, but if you choose to rent a car, RentalCars.com has great deals. If you are not renting a car, there are plenty of options. Taxis are available all over the city. Although Uber is available in Tokyo, it is not commonly used. Download the JapanTaxi app prior to your trip to hail a taxi right from your device. Tokyo also has a great subway and train system that is easy to use. You can buy a pass in advance and have it delivered to your hotel. Be sure to download Hyperdia, an app that helps you navigate Tokyo’s subway and train system. Additionally, most of the top attractions can be accessed with the 24-hour Hop-On Hop-Off Bus.
Best Tours in Tokyo: You can find some of the top tours at Get Your Guide or Viator, and here are some of the top ones:
Insurance: It’s always a good idea to travel fully insured so you are protected in case of trip cancellations or medical emergencies. You can check out pricing at Travelex Insurance.
Universal Adapter: Your American plugged equipment will need an adapter. I use the Celtic Universal Adapter, which has brought me around the world with no problems.
More Tokyo Articles
4 of the Best Day Trips from Tokyo Japanese Culture & Tradition Facts: 11 Etiquette Tips Before You Go Tokyo Food: 13 Themed (& Slightly Weird) Cafe & Restaurant Experiences Japan’s Hottest Show: Tokyo’s Robot Restaurant in Shinjuku Watch Wrestling Practice at a Sumo Stable in Japan Visit Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market Shinjuku Nightlife: A Guide to Tokyo’s Best Golden Gai Bars Best Quirky Café in Japan? Tokyo’s Calico Cat Café in Shinjuku Eat at a Themed Restaurant in Tokyo
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50 Top Things To Do in Japan’s Coolest City
Tokyo can never get boring—it has a plethora of bucket list worthy things to do and fun attractions to visit. While I was in Japan’s top city, I ate beef that was creatively shaped like a brain, served to me inside of my private jail cell by women dressed in pink nurses’ outfits. I drank my coffee next to a dozen felines at a quirky cat café, confirming my preference for dogs. And I found out exactly what all the buttons on the Japanese toilet do (enjoying some outcomes much more than others).
There are not many places that would provide such peculiar and cool forms of entertainment, but Tokyo is a city of many colorful facets; a mix of avant-garde and traditional. It is a town where the illuminated skyscrapers cohabitate with historic temples, unusual anime shops and cherry blossom lined streets. It is a cool destination where your itinerary can include attending a lively tuna auction hours before daybreak, nightlife that can include eating skewers of yakitori in the seedy Piss Alley or scrambling across one of the biggest intersections in the world with hundreds of others.
In other words the city is freaking fabulous and here are the best things to do in Tokyo:
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1. Buy Some Vinyl at HMV Records
Tokyo is a paradise for Vinyl Lovers! They have more record shops than any other city in the world with new collections brought in every month. HMV Records is a huge store filled with Vinyl Records. We recommend you bring along plenty of cash because you will surely get lost amidst aisles of wonder records making you nostalgic and rekindling your passion for music. This vast second-hand record shop has plenty of items and genres for music lovers. They also have a handful of cassettes with a special corner for them along with CDs.
2. Experience TeamLab Borderless
It’s hard to explain TeamLab Borderless, you really have to experience it. The digital art museum is an immersive world where the artwork has no boundaries. There is no map or ‘right way to go’, you move freely from room to room of three-dimensional 10,000 square meter building exploring and discovering. You will find things like the Athletic Forest that helps you think of the world three-dimensionally and, the most instagrammed room, the forest of lamps where hundreds hang from the ceilings. Book your ticket here.
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3. Watch Wrestling Practice at a Sumo Stable
You can’t fully understand the intensity of the sumo wrestling sport unless you are up close and personal at an intense morning practice session to witness the panting, grunting and dripping sweat. The practices at the sumo wrestling stable are not attractions created for tourists—the athletes are not putting on a show for you—they are in serious training and need to be shown respect while you are there.
Though there are over 40 training stables, most in the Ryogoku district, only a few accept visitors. The most common are Kasugano Beya, Takasago Beya and Musashigawa Beya. Make sure to call ahead to confirm that they will be having practice on the day you arrive! Or for an even easier option just book a Morning Sumo Training tour, or take a peek at this list of sumo related experience that you can quickly book online.
If you don’t speak Japanese seeing a practice on your own may be a little tricky (I went to Hakkaku Sumo Stable and needed a translator). But, it was worth the effort because seeing this Japanese tradition was definitely one of the Top 10 things I did in Tokyo!
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4. See a Professional Sumo Match
Sumo is the world famous Japanese style wrestling match which began in ancient times as a ritual to entertain the Shinto deities. And after you’ve seen them practice at the sumo stable, witness the traditional sport live and in all its glory! During the tournament months (January, May and September) you can get tickets for each day of the 15-day tournaments, or just one. I highly recommend the ringside seats which is the closest seating available to the wrestling ring with cushions on the floor.
It’s possible to find a few seats available on tournament day, but it’s best to get them in advance. You can see upcoming tournaments and book tickets here.
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5. Make a Stop at Meiji Shrine
The historical significance of the Meiji Shrine cannot be overstated. The shrine was made for the first emperor of modern Japan – Emperor Meiji. You enter this austere and mystical place through a 40-foot high tori gate and find yourself surrounded by a 200-acre park with a 100,000 trees. Wow!
The cleansing station has a communal water tank for purification of the hand and mouth before offering prayers. You can also write your wishes and tie them up to the prayer wall. The Meiji Jingu Treasure House is at the northern end of the shrine where you will find several personal belongings of the Emperor, as well as a beautiful Inner Garden with blooming flowers and a rustic well.
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6. Attend a Baseball Game
The game of baseball isn’t just one of America’s favorite pastime, the Japanese are passionate about it too. Things are just done a bit differently when you attend a baseball game in Japan, like waving umbrellas for home runs, snacking on edamame and having cheerleaders. Though the Yomiuri Giants at the Tokyo Dome draw larger crowds, you can also see the Tokyo Swallows play at the outdoor Jingu Stadium.
It may be possible to snag some tickets on the day of the game, but not guaranteed! So, if seeing a Japanese baseball game is high on your things to do list then buy tickets to a game online.
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7. Go to Dinner at a Ninja Restaurant
At Ninja Shinjuku a small robot in the corner starts to speak to you as a sliding door opens and leads you down a narrow hallway. Shoji doors open and lead you to a small room where dinner is served. This is not the kitschy place where spry ninjas pop down from the ceiling and serve mediocre food, it’s more of a molecular gastronomy experience where smoke billows out of a box to uncover a beautifully executed salad and Kobe beef is served with a trio of unique dipping sauces.
Dessert was served inside a basement room, along with a “ninja show” which really was more like a magic show—impressive none the less. But what was even more impressive was the bonsai tree dessert whose branches needed to be trimmed with scissors in order to eaten and the base was a sweet crumb that looked just like dirt. Genius.
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8. Go to the Intermediatheque Museum
The Intermediatheque (IMT) Museum is a psychedelic world of its own. Located in the Kitte Marunouchi building near the Tokyo Station, you’ll find yourself lost amidst the ancient wonders and treasures left behind for us by extinct civilizations. From early steam engines to Egyptian mummies, this kaleidoscopic wonderland has everything preserved and on display. Get inspired by the tribal art or see your kids’ faces light up by the wildlife specimens and the 19th century raconteurs of flora and fauna.
Allow yourself at least half a day to absorb the richness and literary brilliance of this place!
9. Play a Game of Pachinko
Pachinko is a Japanese arcade game where the object is to fire balls that will then fall through a maze of metal pins. Try to capture as many balls as possible into the center hole. If you walk through the Shinjuku district, you won’t be able to miss the Pachinko Parlors with their flashing neon and clinking of the balls. It can be an addictive, yet fun thing to do in Tokyo!
Understanding the game of Pachinko can be tricky without lessons or guidance from someone who knows the in-and-outs. You can book the Original Japanese Entertainment tour and you’ll get a half hour lesson along with playing time.
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10. Spend the Night in the Hello Kitty Room
You don’t need to be a diehard Hello Kitty fan to enjoy this must see (and sleep in) room. Slink over to Shinjuku and spend the night in the fun Hello Kitty Room at Keio Plaza Hotel. The room is decked out in the cats signature decor and you can even get yourself breakfast with kitty shaped/stamped food.
11. Walk Across Shibuya Crossing
The iconic Shibuya Crossing is on most visitors “things to do in Tokyo” attraction itinerary because it is dubbed as the busiest intersection in the world, which means it won’t be difficult to find yourself there when it’s insanely packed. While crowds may not be something you wish for your everyday life, trust me, you’ll want participate in the organized chaos that ensues when hundreds of people walk across the intersection at once.
For a different perspective, watch the crossing from the 2nd-story window of the Starbucks on the North side or from the 47th floor of Shibuya Scramble Square building. For an even more unique bucket list experience, walk Shibuya crossing in a kimono. Don’t forget to check out the famous Hachiko Statue right between the intersection and Shibuya Station before you set on your way! And perhaps commit yourself to some window shopping at Shibuya’s massive record stores after?
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12. Try Batto, the ‘Art of Swordsmanship’
Batto, the art of swordsmanship, is a discipline that very few have mastered, but at HiSUi Tokyo you will be one step closer as you take their comprehensive course with a real katana (a long, single-edged sword used by samurai). These techniques and swords were vital in order for the samurai to protect the community and reigning lords.
13. Get the View at Shibuya Sky
Make your way to the tall Shibuya Scramble Square building and climb to the 47th floor, to the Shibuya Sky. This rooftop observatory will get you a stunning 360-degree panoramic view of the city. You can even see the chaos of the famous Shibuya Crossing from way up there.
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14. Unleash Your Inner Anime Fan!
Japan is the birthplace of anime, the Japanese term for animation, so while you’re there make the most of it! If you’re an anime fan then there are so many shops that sell anime products, like Mandarake in Shibuya, as well as themed cafes (here are 8 good ones!) for you to explore. Even if you’re not a fan then it is still amazing to go and immerse yourself in the culture.
15. Stroll Through Yoyogi Park
Taking a walk through Yoyogi Park is a grand experience all on its own. You’ll be setting foot on the ground which represents the ancient facets of Japan, as it was once a site of military barracks, and even served as an Olympics Gymnasium in 1964. The park is divided in two parts by a wide road, one side of which is a dense forest area where people usually take their strolls and enjoy the natural beauty of the place, have picnics and barbecues. The latter has a stadium and an outdoor stage that hold exclusive events and food festivals.
16. Attend a Kabuki Theater Show
Kabuki is a unique form of Japanese theater where they combine song, mime, dance, costume design and elaborate makeup that is typically performed solely by men. At Kabuki-za you can buy Single Act tickets just to get an introduction to the style of theater, or opt for the whole show. It’s easy to get your tickets online here.
17. Get a Photo of the Giant Godzilla Head
Godzilla is thankfully not wreaking havoc on the streets of Tokyo anymore, but you can still see him peeking through the 8th floor of Hotel Gracery in the Toho Building. The Godzilla Head is a popular attraction in Shinjuku with its giant 39-foot reptilian head, piercing eyes and sharp pointy teeth! You can see him from the busy street 130-feet below, or take the elevator up to get a closer peek. Keep your eyes open for the new Godzilla Viewing Room coming in the Spring.
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18. Learn About the History at Edo-Tokyo Museum
Edo is Tokyo’s old name, and the Edo-Tokyo Museum conserves the historical culture and traditions of the city. It almost felt as if I was approaching a UFO when walking towards the building, but then I learnt that the architecture was inspired by the old Tokyo warehouse raised on stilts—it has an ultramodern feel to it with a lot of character. During my 2-hour tour, I marveled at the handcrafted figurines with unique clothing and expressions, the massive cavern room, the replica of Nihonbashi Bridge, recreations of houses and transports of the ancient people, market areas and stage settings of theatrical performances. The place will be your guide to understanding how Tokyo evolved to be one of the most influential cities of the world.
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19. Sing Karaoke
What to do in Tokyo for nightlife? Karaoke, of course. It is a big part of their culture and a huge attraction tourists as well as locals. Tokyo has plenty of fun (& sometimes weird) Karaoke bars where you can belt out a few tunes. One of the more well-known is Karaoke Kan, which was the location for Bill Murray’s singing session in the movie Lost in Translation. But, there are other clubs as well, and you can find some top ones here: 10 of the Best Bars in Tokyo for Karaoke and Other Weird Stuff.
20. See the Tokyo Tower at Night
The Tokyo Tower is the second tallest architectural wonder of Japan. Standing at a height of 1092 feet, the tower glimmers with lights and serves as one of the symbolic features of the city. It is a true marvel to see at the night time, especially because the illumination themes change according to seasons and occasions. You can see it from afar (here are the best place to do it) or you can also go up to the special observation deck and get a night time view of the city (book your ticket here). It is a sight you’ll never forget!
21. Get an Umbrella at Cool Magic SHU’s Umbrella Shop
A store solely dedicated to umbrellas? Yep, that’s exactly what Cool Magic Shu’s is. It may take you hours of perusing the aisles to find your perfectly designed rain protection, but it will be fun doing it!
22. Use all the Buttons on a Japanese Toilet
I’m sure your asking yourself, “can a toilet really be worthy of a spot on your Tokyo Things to Do in Tokyo Bucket List“? Yes, in this case it can. A Japanese commode isn’t any ordinary potty, it’s like a spa for your private parts. Not only will your butt be warm with their seated heats, but they can also clean your derrière with a hot stream of water. Plus, many public restroom stalls will play the sounds of chirping birds to mask any other noises that may be happening! Luckily, you can experience these toilets at many restaurants, hotels and public attractions.
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23. Visit the Red & White Cats at Gotokuji Temple
The Gotokuji Temple is a place that comes with a highly engaging, legendary tale of the maneki neko–the beckoning cats. They are believed to bring good luck and are a symbolic figure of the temple. The visitors make offerings and prayers in front of thousands of red and white cat statues. The kitties are all wearing a red collar with a hanging golden bell and a paw raised in the air to bring you good fortune! You’ll also find cat art in the neighborhood leading up to the temple—a treat for all the cat lovers out there.
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24. Do a Kimono Fitting
Wearing a kimono is a large part of the Japanese culture. A kimono is a traditional Japanese garment that is typically worn by women on special occasions. There are few places to be fitted for a kimono while traveling to Tokyo, but you can find a couple. My personal tour guide, Tomomi, offers private fittings in her home (this is my story about it: Do a Kimono Fitting in Tokyo, Japan), whereas you can book one of these two tours with Voyagin:
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25. Visit the Imperial Palace
The Imperial Palace is the place of residence of Japan’s Imperial family. It has a beautiful park area surrounded by grand stone walls and moats in the center of Tokyo. The main Palace area is open only on the New Year’s Greeting Event on January 2nd and the Emperor’s Birthday on the 23rd of December, but the palace exterior grounds are open for public throughout the year. There are two bridges that can be viewed right from the Kokyo Gaien plaza that’s right out from the the palace and the Imperial Palace East Gardens are amongst the best places for a stroll.
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26. Buy a Japanese Knife
Japanese knives are known to be some of the best in the world due to there keen edges, quality of steel and made-by-hand techniques. Being a restaurateur, I could not leave Tokyo without bringing one home with me! Though I bought mine at Masahisa, there are plenty of other reputable knife shops around town. You can try walking down Kappabashi Street, the kitchen district. Not only will you find plenty of knife shops, but you will also find every kitchen product imaginable, including plastic food samples used as window displays by many restaurants. For more help, read: How and Where to Buy Knives in Tokyo.
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27. Walk Across the Rainbow Bridge
The iconic Rainbow Bridge of Japan got its name because in the month December it’s lit up like a rainbow. The suspension bridge has a pedestrian pathway on both its north and south ends. It is free to take a walk across and takes about 25 minutes on foot, but you can also go on a bicycle. The north route has breathtaking views of the Tokyo Tower along with stunning skyscrapers around Roppongi and Toranomon, Toyosu and the Shiodome area. The south route offers views of Odaiba as well as the neighboring islands and the Shinagawa area.
28. Relax at an Onsen
Relaxing in a hot springs bath, an onsen, is a top Japanese tradition that you don’t want to miss. There are plenty of them in Tokyo (you can see some of the best ones here), but Ooedo Onsen Monogatari is a popular one because it’s an onsen theme park where you can soak in one of their baths, get your fortune told and/or have a foot massage. There’s plenty of entertainment on the premises to keep you occupied for at least an afternoon.
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29. Go to Tokyo Disneyland
Welcome to the happiest place in the world—Disneyland Tokyo edition! It is highly recommended that you spend at least 2 days here to enjoy all the wonderful attractions and food. There are several fun attractions unique to Tokyo Disneyland, like Dream Lights with a magical nighttime light parade (Minnie oh! Minnie!), the interactive Monster’s Inc. Ride & Go Seek and Western River Railroad to name a few.
You can book admission tickets and transfers here. Also consider splurging a little by staying at the Tokyo Disneyland Hotel which is at a short walk from the theme park and comes with many perks.
30. Visit 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT
If you are a fan of unique design then stopping at the 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT is a must! This contemporary design exhibition hall is the brain child of fashion designer Issey Miyake and architect Tadao Ando. It’s located in Tokyo’s midtown, an upscale section in the Roppongi area of the city.
The beauty of this places starts with the exterior architecture and moves about through the different gallery spaces. The artwork changes with some of the themes being things like “Secret Source of Inspiration: Designers’ Hidden Sketches and Mockups” and “Chocolate” that focused on the unique social attributes related to chocolate.
During my visit they had a beautiful chair exhibit, each designed by current and former members of the Japan Design Committee. The best part was that you were encouraged to sit in them all!
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31. Visit the Meguro Parasitological Museum
The Meguro Parasitological Museum is one of a kind, and the only one in existence that displays the weirdly fascinating collection from the world of parasites! It is a unique experience that you’ll carry with you all your life, although if parasites make you feel squeamish, you may need to cover your eyes because the skin crawling museum has parasites from all facets of life on display in hundreds of jars. Even though it sounds gross, you’re bound to be intrigued by its bizarreness, and it may even end up being top of your favorite thing to do in Tokyo!
32. Go to a Maid Cafe
Maid cafés are all the buzz in Japan! They are fun cosplay restaurants where waitresses are dressed up as working maids to serve the customers as a master in a private home rather than as a café patron. The key word is “iyashi” that translates into “to be soothed”.
Your quintessential Victorian maid fantasy will come to life with spa like services, scrumptious food along with relaxing classical music while you are enveloped by verdurous greenery! There are numerous maid cafés in Tokyo (you can see some of the top ones here), each offering a unique service with the cutest undertones like chanting “moe moe kyun” to make your drinks taste better or writing over your food with ketchup! It is definitely something to look out for.
If you don’t want to navigate a maid cafe on your own, you can book one of these tours with Voyagin: Akihabara Tour with Your Own Personal Maid! or Enjoy Maid Cafe Maidreamin in Akihabara.
33. Go to a Cat Cafe
Tokyo is filled with weird things to do and going to a cat cafe ranks really high on that list. Calico Cat Cafe in Shinjuku is an attraction that gives you the opportunity to play with unique feline breeds while drinking a cup of coffee. So odd that it’s definitely worth a spot on your things to do in Tokyo bucket list itinerary. If you prefer, you can also play with cute hedgehogs in Roppongi!
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34. Dine in a Jail Cell
Most people would avoid (at all costs) dining in a jail cell, but Alcatraz ER will give you an offbeat dining experience of a lifetime. This restaurant is designed as a jail and each cell or prison represents a dining area for a group. Staff that are well dressed in nurse uniforms tend to the call of the bang of a metal rod against the cells bars.
Brave diners (like myself!) will nosh on things like blue curry served in a urine tin or drink cocktails out of dummy’s head. Can you ever imagine eating sausage in the shape of bowel movement; well this place has more quirkiness to offer than you can imagine. A must have nightlife experience for your Tokyo itinerary even you prefer not to visit again.
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35. Go to Yasukuni Shrine
The Yasukuni Shrine is the most interesting and possibly the most controversial place in Japan. Founded in 1869, this place is said to hold 2.5 million shrines! It was made in honor of the men who lost their lives in the Boshin War and has expanded to include war martyrs since then.
The entrance of the shrine is made from a massive gray metal Daicihi Torii standing at a height of 72 feet and giving it an eerie feel. The arch then gets smaller with a Daini Torii which is the second shrine gate, and the Shinmon gate which leads into the area of shrine. The Chumon Torrii then leads into the main hall. Photography isn’t allowed but there is a lot to take in with rich cultural significance and a war museum.
36. See a Show at the Robot Restaurant
From the moment you enter The Robot Restaurant lounge to the time you depart, you will feel like you are diving into the colors of neon that bounce off the mirrors. There are dramatic fights between bikini clad girls riding atop robots, the sound of the cast playing the charismatic drums and visitors are given a glow-stick to cheer during all the action.
This place is more dedicated to a flashy show than on food, but you can order a sushi bento box or caramel popcorn to dine on while you are entertained. Plus, flowing beer and a few drinks are available, but the core attraction is the captivating chaos of the show.
Though you can buy tickets at the door, you can get them at a discount by booking in advanced at Voyagin.
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37. Indulge in a Massive Matcha Dessert
Offbeat food in Tokyo is not limited to main meals, but extends to sweet desserts too, and some of the most popular is made from matcha, a green tea. Desserts like ice-cream, mousse, cream, jelly and many more variations are available. But, I say if you are going to do it go big! I ordered this this quadruple layered matcha gateaux chocolate parfait that was topped with an entire piece of cake! Yes, I ate the whole thing! No shame.
The most popular hot spots serving these delectable and divine tasting desserts are Kinozen, Marunouchi Café, Nana’s Green Tea (that’s where I ate) and many more.
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38. Attend a Tuna Auction
You will need to wake up really early for a chance to go to the famous tuna auction at Tsukiji Fish Market (folks start lining up before 4am). But, it will be worth getting an insiders view of the buyers checking the fish quality and bidding for their prize one. After, explore Tsukiji’s inner and outer market where you can watch them expertly cut the large tunas they just purchased.
You can go on your own or book a tour:
39. Participate in a Traditional Japanese Tea Ceremony
Happo-en Japanese Garden sits in Shirokanedai district of Tokyo and is an exquisite example of natural beauty with its ancient bonsai, koi pond and blanket of cherry blossoms in the Springtime. Not only is it a beautiful representation of a Japanese garden, but you can schedule to participate in a traditional Japanese tea ceremony where you will be drinking Matcha in their wooden Muan tea house.
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40. Bar Hop in Golden Gai
What’s a trip to Tokyo without a little nightlife? Golden Gai is a neighborhood in the Shinjuku ward of Tokyo that squeezes in over 200 miniature bars into a network of six narrow alleys, made only for pedestrians. Enjoy the unique Japanese nightlife by bar hopping in the section of town where most of the drinking holes only seat 8-12 people total. Ready to go? Get the location here or just book a Kabukicho and Shinjuku Golden Gai Night Tour.
Want to read more about bar hopping in Golden Gai? See this article—Shinjuku Nightlife: A Guide to Tokyo’s Best Golden Gai Bars.
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41. Learn to Make Classic Japanese Ramen at Chagohan
You can eat ramen all over the city, but how about learning to make it? At Chagohan you can learn this skill (and dine on it afterwards!).
FYI: This isn’t the only ramen cooking class, there are re plenty of others and you can see a list at Cookly.
42. Eat at the Kill Bill Inspiration Restaurant
Gonpachi restaurant, in the Roppongi district of Tokyo, is known as being the inspiration for the fight scene from the Kill Bill movie and it’s easy to spot the similarities. Not only can you enjoy the interior design, but you can also indulge in a bowl of Soba.
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43. Make Your Own Matcha at the Urasando Garden Mini-Mall
The Urasando Garden is a collection of shops within a traditional Japanese–style house giving you the ultimate kick of nostalgia as soon as you enter. It gets its name from its unique location at the back street of Omotesando, hence the name Urasando meaning “ura” – back and “omote” – front.
There are many fun things to do and shops to explore, but what makes the best visit is being able to make your own matcha. You can choose your own cup and blend your own matcha alongside houjicha-flavored chocolate and cream filled breads!
44. Eat Chankonabe (Sumo Wrestlers Stew)
Chankonabe is the nutritious stew that sumo wrestlers eat daily as part of their bulking up diet. It is a hearty dish that is relatively healthy, low in fat, high in protein and filled with tons of veggies. There are many Chankonabe restaurants in Tokyo, conveniently located close to the sumo stables where the wrestlers practice and live. But, Yoshiba is the most unique because it is located in an old sumo stable with a sumo dohyo (ring) right in the center of the dining room (this is where I had my chankonabe experience in Tokyo).
If you’re interested in booking a tour instead of navigate somewhere to each chankonabe here are a couple highly rate ones:
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45. Drink a Cat Coffee at Oshiage Nyanko
Are you a cat person who loves coffee? This quaint little café boasts stuff dreams are made of! Tucked away in a tiny pocket-sized treasure cove, this hidden gem is located near the Tokyo Sky Tree. You will be amazed at the wonderful 3D latte art of “Oshiage Nyanko”. Although the café isn’t that prominent, it is so famous that you can easily find it.
46. Take a Sushi Making Class
If you are a sushi lover, what better thing to do in Tokyo than learn how to make it? I got a personal sushi lesson with Tokyo Tours with Tomomi, where we first paid a visit to Tsukiji Fish Market to pick up some fresh tuna for our meal and went to her private home to assemble. Viator also offers a fabulous Sushi Making and Tsukiji Fish Market tour. The best part is when you are rewarded by getting to eat your efforts. Afterwards you can wash it all down with sake by booking a sake tasting.
You can find many more sushi making options at Cookly.
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47. Go to a Ping-Pong Restaurant
Tokyo is filled with quirky dining options and The Rally Table is one of them. It’s ‘Game On’ at this restaurant where table tennis is the centerpiece of the room. So pop on in, order yourself a plate of the ping pong curry and play a game or two. FYI: It gets pretty lively at night, but during lunch it’s mostly business men so you’ll have a better chance at playing a game.
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48. Eat at a Yakiniku Restaurant
This bucket list activity is for all the carnivores out there. At a Yakiniku (grilled meat) restaurant in Tokyo you will be barbecuing your choice of raw grub on your own table top grill. If you choose to have your dining experience at the highly rated Yakiniku Jumbo Shirogane, you will be indulging in A5 Kuroge Wagyu, the highest rank of Japanese beef. Or you can try some of Tokyo’s other tasty yakiniku restaurants.
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49. Explore the Ghibli Museum
If you have seen Spirited Away, and loved it, then the Ghibli Museum absolutely needs to be visited by you! The creator of the movies, Hayao Miyazaki, also had a hand in creating the visuals of this museum, helping make it one of the most visually stunning museums in the world. Even if it’s just for a moment, you’ll have landed right in the middle of one of his movies!
50. Eat Grilled Salamander (and other delicious stuff) in Piss Alley
Piss Alley, also known as Omoide Yokocho (or Memory Lane), is best described as the restaurant version of Golden Gai, a section that squeezes in over 200 miniature bars into a network of six narrow alleys. Piss Alley is a small area filled with quaint yakitori restaurants, and a few drinking holes, most with just a handful of seats.
If you are an adventurous eater head over to Asadachi, a name that translates to Morning Wood, where you will get the privilege of tasting Grilled Salamander. Yes! Salamander! Maybe not the best food in the world, but visitors who love to challenge their eating habits visit this restaurant for the most bizarre meal. Here you can also try pig testicles, frog shasimi, raw pig testicles and snake liquor. Yum!
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51. Stay in a Capsule Hotel
These pint-sized pods have become popular for those that want something trendy, easy and economical. There are several all around Tokyo, but one of the top ones is Capsule Net Omotenashi.
52. Get Your Meal From a Vending Machine
You heard right — eat a meal from a vending machine! One of Japan’s greatest inventions, definitely not only limited to being found in Tokyo, are the vending machines at just about every corner. You can barely walk a block in Tokyo without passing by a half dozen vending machines. Though most are filled with an array of beverages, many will have food products that can easily make a meal. The list includes special items like flying fish soup, eggs, hot dogs, hamburgers, sushi, ramen and so on. My afternoon lunch of warm corn soup was surprisingly tasty!
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53. Go to an Owl Café
Oh, what a hoot! Ever thought of having an eye staring contest with an owl? Here in Tokyo, everything is possible! One minute you are strolling through parks the next you have an owl named Peanut perched on your arm! These quirky cafés (here are 7 to choose from) are almost always packed with customers, and you need to be very careful around the majestic owls. No flash photography or sudden movements allowed!
54. Sleep in a Ryokan
For a unique cultural experience stay at a ryokan, an old-school Japanese inn typically with tatami-matted rooms, low tables, and communal baths. Ryokan Sawanoya will give you this traditional feeling or opt for the updated Andon Ryokan.
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55. Discover Sensoji Temple
Another historically significant spot in the middle of Tokyo, Sensoji Temple is the oldest religious site in all of Tokyo. Not only that, but is one of the more gorgeous temples to visit, based on its exterior. Right after visiting the temple, check out the shops by Nakamise Dori, on your way back to the station.
. . .
Truth be told, there is far more to see and do in Tokyo that could ever be written down in a post, unless you want to read pages and pages worth of bullet point suggestions. But these are some amazing activities to get started from, especially if you’ve only got a few days to yourself to explore the city. And after you’ve gone once, you’ll find yourself wanting to go back, again and again, and there will always be more to see. That’s really half the fun of it! So, what are you still waiting for? Time to book your plane tickets and go!
Essential Tips for Visiting Tokyo
Getting There: Narita and Haneda International Airport are both major hubs but most international flights will land at Narita Airport. You can easily check for the best fare deals at Skyscanner, which also has the option to choose ‘cheapest month’ as the departure to find the lowest priced dates to fly to your destination. Although Haneda International Airport is located closer to central Tokyo, there are fewer transportation options from the airport to central Tokyo. There are plenty of public transportation options from Narita International Airport to the city center. From Narita International Airport, you can take the a taxi, bus, the JR Narita Express, or the Keisei Skyliner. From Haneda International Airport, you can take a Keikyu Taxi, the Keikyu Limousine Bus, the Keikyu Line and JR Yamanote Line, or the Tokyo Monorail and JR Yamanote Line.
Where to Stay in Tokyo: With so many wards in Tokyo, choosing a hotel location can be mind-boggling. But, if you want to be where the action is, Shinjuku or Shibuya may be the best district to stay for your first visit; both are conveniently located with easy access to shop-ping, restaurants, nightlife, and public transport. Plus, they look like the Tokyo you typically see on television with bustling streets, towering skyscrapers, and flashy neon lights. In Shinjuku the JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom is just a three-minute walk from the south exit of Shinjuku station. For a more budget-friendly gem try Tokyu Stay that has locations throughout the city including Shinjuku and Shibuya.
If you want to venture to other wards, the Tokyo Station Hotel is conveniently located in the heart of the city and right above the Tokyo JR station.If you want to avoid the bustle of the city, head off the beaten path to the original boutique hotel, Claska. The Daiwa Roynet Hotel Shimbashi (moderate) or Act Hotel Roppongi (moderate) are great choices in the Minato Ward district. For a less expensive option, try the Book and Bed Tokyo Asakusa, a unique hostel experience. Or try the ICI Hotel Kanda by Relief if you’re looking for a less expensive, traditional hotel. For a hotel with a little more extravagance, book a room at the Prince Park Tower Tokyo, or the Hilton Tokyo Hotel. Or search some great deals on hotels of your choice at Booking.com. If you’re looking for more of a home atmosphere (or are traveling with a group of people), head over to Airbnb that has houses, apartments and even just a room for rent in every price range.
Getting Around: Driving in Tokyo can be a bit of a challenge and parking fees can be expensive, but if you choose to rent a car, RentalCars.com has great deals. If you are not renting a car, there are plenty of options. Taxis are available all over the city. Although Uber is available in Tokyo, it is not commonly used. Download the JapanTaxi app prior to your trip to hail a taxi right from your device. Tokyo also has a great subway and train system that is easy to use. You can buy a pass in advance and have it delivered to your hotel. Be sure to download Hyperdia, an app that helps you navigate Tokyo’s subway and train system. Additionally, most of the top attractions can be accessed with the 24-hour Hop-On Hop-Off Bus.
Best Tours in Tokyo: You can find some of the top tours at Get Your Guide or Viator, and here are some of the top ones:
Insurance: It’s always a good idea to travel fully insured so you are protected in case of trip cancellations or medical emergencies. You can check out pricing at Travelex Insurance.
Universal Adapter: Your American plugged equipment will need an adapter. I use the Celtic Universal Adapter, which has brought me around the world with no problems.
More Tokyo Articles
4 of the Best Day Trips from Tokyo Japanese Culture & Tradition Facts: 11 Etiquette Tips Before You Go Tokyo Food: 13 Themed (& Slightly Weird) Cafe & Restaurant Experiences Japan’s Hottest Show: Tokyo’s Robot Restaurant in Shinjuku Watch Wrestling Practice at a Sumo Stable in Japan Visit Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market Shinjuku Nightlife: A Guide to Tokyo’s Best Golden Gai Bars Best Quirky Café in Japan? Tokyo’s Calico Cat Café in Shinjuku Eat at a Themed Restaurant in Tokyo
source http://cheaprtravels.com/50-top-things-to-do-in-japans-coolest-city/
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