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hauteculturefashion · 5 years

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Chichicastenango Market can be either a paradise or a tournament for textile lovers. It is the biggest market in Central America and the sheer quantity of cultural textiles on offer is like nothing we’ve ever seen before (and let me tell you, we’ve seen a lot of markets on our travels). The choice, diversity and incredible level of craftsmanship can be both absolutely amazing and utterly overwhelming! Here is Haute Culture’s guide to making the most out of your time exploring this magnificent market.

Chichi Market: 90% huipil.

Chichi market is held every Thursday and Sunday in the town of Chichicastenango. If you are staying in Panajachel then you can get a taxi (around $70), a shared shuttle bus, or, like us, you can catch the local chicken bus. This involved a fairly uncomfortable but exhilarating journey across three different buses and past many interesting sights. It took about two hours to get there by bus. Upon arrival, we were totally taken aback by the labyrinth of stalls spilling out, over and in between the streets.

We highly recommend getting a local guide to help you manoeuvre your way through the textilian jungle and to enrich your experience with the market sellers.

Our guide, Dina from Maya Traditions, firstly took us directly into the heart of the market and up to the third floor of a cafe. From here, we could refresh, refuel and drink in the atmosphere of the market whilst getting our bearings. We enjoyed brunch right above the thick of things, looking down on the hustle and bustle as sellers weaved through the streets carrying their wares on their shoulders, backs and in wheelbarrows.

When we descended back down to street level, it was like stepping into a maze of materials. We spent the first two hours just walking, looking and absorbing all that was on offer. The market is probably 80% Guatemalan huipils, with wrap skirts, handmade belts and silverwares also on sale.

It’s very likely that you will quickly see beautiful things that you want to buy: we recommend you practice patience, as there are many, many incredible things to choose from. If you think you might want to come back for something later, make a note of the landmarks around as it can be hard to retrace your steps. Take time to appreciate the handiwork that is available and make sure you speak to different artisans to get a sense of what they are selling, where it has come from, how long it took to make, what it is made from and what the story is behind a particular garment.

Dina from Maya Traditions patiently leading the way through the never-ending alley of outrageously beautiful textiles.

Hand-embroidered San Mateo Ixtatán huipil from the region of Huehuetenango: this was priced at around $100 USD for nearly one year’s work.

It’s very important to be aware of the history behind lots of what’s on sale at the market. Many antique textiles were seized during the Guatemalan civil war and are now being sold on at Chichi market. If a piece was made between the 1960s and 1990s, it’s very likely that it was sold on to traders by an indigenous family during the war. These handicrafts were never meant to be sold; they were family heirlooms, many with immense ceremonial importance. In most cases, indigenous families were forced to sell handicrafts in an attempt to find a way out of their desperate economic situations.

Always ask questions to make sure you are comfortable with the story you are told about a piece. If a trader can’t tell you about the village it came from, the significance of the design or what the garment was for, then you may want to think twice about purchasing. We’re not saying you shouldn’t buy antique textiles: just be considerate, respectful and ask yourself what it is you want it for. Most of the true antiques can be found in the area of the market near the Church of Santo Tomas. When buying, please remember that ceremonial textiles should not be cut up and reconstituted into something new, or worn inappropriately.

Many secondhand huipils can be purchased from street traders for under $20 USD, depending on the age, wear, handwork and region.

All that said, it is, of course, a wonderful opportunity to buy some incredible pieces if you are a conscious consumer. There are some phenomenally beautiful hand-crafted textiles by master artisans, some of which were years in the making. You can buy museum-quality pieces in the antique section and the incredible craftsmanship is reflected in the price.

One of our favourite spots was the area near the bus stops which had more of a flea market feel. The huipils were spilling out of boxes, hanging off the walls and laid out over pieces of cardboard directly onto the street. Dina, our guide from Maya Traditions, recommended buying from the individual older women, as she believes that this is one of the best ways to ensure that your money is going back into the pocket of someone that really needs the sale and appreciates the money.

I bought this newly woven Nebaj huipil for around $60 USD.

Here are our top five tips on managing Chi-Chi Market

Arrive early or even spend the night at one of the hotels in Chichicastenango so you can be up and out before too many other tourists arrive. Chi Chi Market is open Thursdays and Sundays: Thursday is the quieter of the two days.

Take your time. Don’t rush to buy the first thing you see as you and your wallet will quickly burn out! Every step has something new to offer. If you see something you like, use your phone to take a note of the landmarks near a particular stall or save the location. That way, you can find your way back later if you decide you want to buy it.

Go with a guide if you don’t speak fluent Spanish. If you are shopping for textiles specifically then go with a private guide so you have someone to take you to the most ethical vendors. Use our how to haggle ethically guide to help you make conscious choices. Make sure you ask people before you take photos, even if it’s just a hand gesture and eye contact to let them know you want a picture. Be respectful of their response: many Mayan people don’t want their photo taken.

Wear comfortable shoes. Chichi Market is very, very large and at times the floor can become uneven. It is also very hot, so stay hydrated. Keep your money in a belt; we didn’t experience anything dodgy but better to be safe than sorry.

Only buy the things that you really, really love. You will see many amazing things but go in with the intention of what you are looking for to help you focus your attention. Maybe you want something for display, something to wear or maybe a specific design. Find out as much as possible from the vendor before you buy so you can get a feel for what type of person they are. This will make anything you do buy all the more meaningful. Always be a conscious consumer.

Keep some time to explore the town as well as the market. The cemetery is a colourful celebration of Mayan culture.

Flower seller

Embroidery shop

Cemetery

Church

Mayan ceremony

The general vibe of the market is incredibly friendly and open: the women are ready to welcome you and are mostly very happy to answer questions you may have about their garments. In some cases, you should be prepared to haggle over the price, but please read our guide to ethical haggling to make sure the price – and the experience – is right for both you and the trader.

After visiting the market you can take a walk up the steps to the 400-year-old Church of Santo Tomas. There are often Mayan flower ceremonies taking place on the steps. You can also walk 15 minutes to the nearby Mayan cemetery. The Mayan’s celebration of death is just as colourful and joyous as their celebration of life and each grave is painted in the favourite colour of the deceased.

Chichicastenango Market visit is one of the highlights from our Guatemala: Weaving, Embroidery and Community Tour.

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