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anushreesp · 5 years

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Rajasthan- Ajmer, Pushkar, Udaipur

Day 3, 4 and 5

We started from Jaipur around 7 AM to Udaipur in a cab which local hotel people helped arrange. (Note: online rental of cabs turns out much cheaper)

We planned to visit Ajmer and Pushkar on the way.

Ajmer and Pushkar Kahani

We reached Pushkar first after a beautiful drive on NA 48. We could smell the presence of a shrine from a distance with the fragrance of incense sticks filling the air. Once we reached the temple, we got pulled into a ritual by the Pushkar Sarovar. What I noticed is that the pooja style is so different from South India. Having used to see the priests in Dhotis, I was flabbergasted to see priests wearing casual jeans. Pushkar has a Brahma temple which is one of the very few Brahma temples in the world. It dates back to 14th century. The temple resides by the side of a serene Pushkar lake which was decorated by the beautiful petals of roses offered by the devotees. Pushkar lake is divided into multiple ghats where people were seen taking a dip in the holy lake. Mandakki/beaten rice and sugar bits given as prasada.

The best part of Pushkar was having lunch at a local Dhaba where the rotis and dal bhaati choorna were made fresh using firewood.

Ajmer was an experience. Ajmer is known for the shrine of the Muslim Sufi saint Garib Nawaz, Ajmer Sharif Dargah built by Akbar in the 16th century.

We walked for nearly a mile to reach the Dargah. The road was decorated with green and white flags. The streets were crowded with shops of colourful dhoopas on both the sides. As we reached near, I spotted a lot of shops with baskets of fragrant rose petals. When we entered the place, one one side we found people chanting prayers seated in rows. On the other side, there were people offering their prayers leaning against the prayer wall.

It was night when we reached Udaipur.

Udaipur Memories

Udaipur, aka City of Lakes welcomed us with cold weather and lit up lakes around the city.

We had an entire day to explore the city of lakes. After a yummy South Indian breakfast at our homestay, our first stop of the day was at City Palace.

Before we visited palace, we spotted a beautiful temple rich in architecture just outside the palace. Jagadish temple, built around 16th century is a work of Māru-Gurjara architecture.

City palace which at the time our visit was famously known as the place where Ambani’s daughter had her Sangeeth, is a magnificent structure with view of the lakes from all corners of the palace. The palace was built over a period of 400 years by the Mewar Dynasty.

The interiors of the palace is something to lookout for with intricate mirror-work, marble-work, murals, wall paintings, silver-work and leftover of colored glass on the walls and ceilings.

Ghats; series of steps leading to the lake, were constructed to fetch water from the lake. The ghat near City palace by Lake Pichola is called Gangaur Ghat. The ghats areas are calm with Ravenhatah players doing their magic.

One of the place totally worth visiting is Bagore Ki Haweli. Its a mansion converted to a museum now housing world’s largest pagdi, puppets and various artifacts. Blush pink Bougenvilla flowers filled the front yard of the haweli.

Haweli’s have a concept of courtyard for activities like socialising, trading markets, cultural performances. The courtyard also had a plant of Tulsi in the center. Watching the occasional showers fall into the courtyard while eating a hot plate of mawa kachori must have been a view to watch!

The haweli had kitchen, prayer room in the ground floor and rest of the rooms in first floor with terrace opening up to the view of the peaceful Lake Pichola. Sheesh Mahal was also part of the Haweli. There was a room built for a widow which was all white and a photograph of her husband.

A part of Bagore Ke Haweli is converted to a theater where folk dances of Rajasthan will be performed every evening. The ticket counters open up just 30 minutes before the show and there will be limited number of seats. Some of the folk dances performed were Ghoomar, pot dance, dance with lamps.

After getting a dose of the royal history of Udaipur, I wanted to experience the markets and streets of modern Udaipur. It was so structured starting with shops for silver, followed by wood, steel, processed foods, dals and tea powders, ending with fresh fruits and vegetables.

Sahelion Ki Bari is a garden with fountains which was built for the queen and the royal ladies. You might like this place if you are into botany as varieties of flowering, medicinal plants are cultivated here.

How can we not go on a lake ride in a city of lakes? What better time than sunset to go on a boat ride? Boat ride in Fateh Sagar lake at the perfect time of sunset was one of the best experiences we had at Udaipur. The water was gleaming golden orange reflecting the rays of sunset. To add more hue to the frame, we had a smiling and talented Ravenhatah instrumentalist playing the tunes of Sandeshi Ati Hai, Pardesi pardesi meri jana nahi. Perfect memories were made and moments were captured by the selfie freaks on board. 🙂

We ended the day by walking on the side of Ganguar Ghat where the entire place was lit up and reflection of the lit up structures in the lake was a view to watch!

Places Visited: City Palace Udaipur Market Saheliyon ke Baari Lake Pichola

Days Spent: 2 days

Happy Exploring!

Stay tuned to read the last leg of my trip to Rajasthan!

#travel

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unusedrooms · 2 years

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All Seasons Homestay

All Seasons Homestay With a stay at All Seasons Homestay in Jaipur (Gopalbari), you’ll be steps from Ajmer Road and M.I. Road. Featured amenities include complimentary newspapers in the lobby, dry cleaning/laundry services, and a 24-hour front desk.. We would recommend booking early especially for tours and events. Since COVID restrictions being eased there has been a boom in vacation…

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heritagecabsjaipur · 2 years

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dowsetteer-blog · 7 years

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A Final Routine

Satpal Singh, on his way to sell milk at the market, finds me sitting against a wall at the bottom of some steps. The day is only just dawning, the village stirring. I’m engrossed in Game of Thrones, having long ago accepted that I’d arrived too early to find a ready-made bed. Satpal spots my bag. “Ya, you stay with me. 250 rupees. 2 days, 3 days, 5 days. 5 minutes further.” It’s more like 10. And I’m there for a month. My final month.

I was tired, just off an overnight bus from Delhi, and at the end of a busy week. From Bangalore I had taken a 44-hour train journey all the way to Ajmer, rejoining Soph in Pushkar and catching up with friends from our previous visit. Mango was still in fine form, Fiona was in the midst of building work, Rami as delightfully dry as ever. We had spent a day trawling the market stalls for gifts and bits of ethnic homeliness, and another with Rami's wife and a tube of mehndi, but it wasn’t long before we were rolling on to Delhi. Soph would catch her return flight to the UK a year to the day since our arrival. It was strange to see her go, to watch her merge into the numberless people pushing trolleys, to suddenly realise we wouldn’t complete this together. By the time she touched down I was halfway to Dharamsala, where I’d jump in a tuk-tuk and head on up to Dharamkot.

Satpal turned out not to be a Singh at all. The surname painted onto his cafe was merely to entice Punjabi visitors inside, or on to his homestay, or to employ him as their trekking guide. His cunning aside, Satpal was a lovely man with a lovely family: Anju, Isha and Vansu. I ate with them most nights, sitting around the fire in the kitchen as Anju dumped piles of rice and dal and subji on my plate, and I counted to 20 in Hindi. Ek, do, teen…. Satpal would call me Sir, much against my wishes, but he couldn’t remember his birthday let alone my name. It was always fun. We’d laugh about goat herding, my efforts with mehndi, Vansu's sudden outbursts that I never understood.

I spent the first week trudging up and down the steep slope to McLeod Ganj, home to His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama. With impeccable timing he had some teachings scheduled at the Tsuglagkhang temple where pictures of Tibetans who have resorted to self-immolation line the entry. Armed with a radio so I could tune into the English translation I sat the first morning wedged between hundreds of monks, zoning in and out of the designated subject matter, 'Entering the Middle Way'. The next day I branched out to sit with more of the unrobed and enjoy a little space for the inevitable fidget. Each morning the crowds would lean towards the railings as the leader of the Tibetan people passed by, slowly making his way upstairs, waving to the masses and offering a gentle word here and there. He glowed with contentment.

And then I had to find a new routine. A walk down to Tushita for some guided meditation; a spell of writing in Common Ground or the Himalayan Tea Cafe, often with a potato paratha accompaniment; a run through the pine forest and back up the steep steps to Satpal's. I’d try and fit in some time with the guitar, building the repertoire. One time I heard Isha humming Royals to herself, it was nice to think I’d made a mark. They urged me to stay and celebrate Diwali with them and I was reminded of the uncomfortable time we’d endured with Karamjeet a year earlier. This time we had just a few candles, a modest change to the menu, the sound of Satpal's niece singing from the next house up.

I didn’t meet many travellers, set apart from the village halfway up the hillside, but I was fine with that. Those who I did meet became good friends. Adrian and Catherine were from New Zealand and Quebec, with the Kiwi half soon to attain the dubious honour of being a grandfather at 42. We walked to Nadi one evening hoping to see a memorable sunset, and instead had to turn our backs on a man proclaiming the futility of vipassana. I met Gus and Katie whilst sitting atop a carpet of cloud in Triund. They were teachers from east London, a month into their travels. We spent a day watching Tibetan films at the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts where Satpal worked. Royal Café by Tenzin Dazel. The Sun Beaten Path by Sonthar Gyal. The Sacred Arrow by Pema Tseden.

Gus and Katie showed me the waterfalls past Gallu Temple which were soon the focus of my runs. A half-hour jog over boulders, through the forest, along paths that crumbled into steep drops, before the sound of a river cascading down from the hilltops. I’d launch off a rock into the clean-clear icy cold water, hoping that someone would pluck me out if I had a heart attack. Plunging into that rock pool was one of my final acts before picking up my bags and heading back down the steps towards the village. Everything had become so final. A final winding bus journey to Delihi. A final night at a hostel. A final tuk-tuk ride to the metro. And then it was me, merging into the trolley-pushers, standing in queues, Satpal Singh already a memory.

#dharamkot #mcleodganj #dalailama #wild swimming #meditation #tushita #tipa #tibetan film #hill running #india #himachal pradesh

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sundayforeverstays · 1 year

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homestays in india, best homestays in india, luxury homestays in india, homestays in shimla, homestays in Dehradun, homestays in Goa, homestays in Mussoorie, homestays in Leh Ladakh, homestays in Rajasthan, homestays in Ajmer, homestays in Bhimtal

#homestays in india #best homestays in india #luxury homestays in india #homestays in shimla #homestays in Dehradun #homestays in Goa #homestays in Mussoorie

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midearthtravel-blog · 7 years

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Road Trip to Ladakh

“The world is a book… and those who do not travel, read only a page’’

– St. Augustine

All regular travellers, will agree to this wonderful statement, which was penned over 1500 years ago. I’m glad that we brothers, decided to finally execute our long-standing wish of travelling to Ladakh by road, all the way from Mumbai. (Thane, to be precise).

An unforgettable journey of 6050 kms, spanning 7 states and 1 Union Territory, over 18 adrenaline pumping, thrilling, heady days.

How to Reach

There are various options to reach Ladakh. The fastest one is to fly in to Leh, the capital of Ladakh. Not recommended for 2 reasons- (a) Chances of Altitude Sickness as you suddenly land at 11,500 feet above sea level, and (b) You miss out on some ‘out-of-this-world’ locations, which will only be seen on a road trip.

To arrive by road, there are 2 routes- one via Manali (Manali-Jispa-Sarchu-Leh), and the other via Srinagar (Srinangar-Kargil-Mulbek-Leh).

The Srinagar option is the best, as you gain altitude gradually, and also get to visit Kargil and the alienistic landscape of Lamayuru (Moonland), en route.

Unfortunately for us, that road was closed, and so we planned our journey via Manali. As they say, beggars cannot be choosers.

Best Time

This is such a relative term…depends on what is your target. For a regular family guy, June-August works best. The climate is pleasant, most of the roads are opened up by the BRO (Border Roads Organisation), and the vibrant Hemis festival can be enjoyed during this time.

If you’re an adventure junkie who prefers solitude, wants to interact with locals, and a white Ladakh with a ‘Chadar’ on the Zanskar is on your wishlist, then head to Ladakh between December and February.

http://midearth.in/leh-ladakh-tour/

We chose the end of the tourist season, as we wanted motorable roads, but also wished to avoid locations swarming with tourists. Started off from Mumbai on 17th Sept and reached Leh on the 22nd. Took us that long, as we visited Amritsar, for Golden Temple and Wagah Border, along the way.

Where to Stay

From rickety lodges, to tented campsites, from simple homestays to luxury hotels… and everything in between, Ladakh has all on offer.

It is advisable to check on the hotel of your choice before you set off. Some may be pre-booked, others may be decided on the go.

At Leh, we stayed at Hotel Gawaling, which was quite passable, and honestly, a bit overpriced. The staff and manager were super hosts though. Very helpful, and informative. The best option at Pangong Tso is, undoubtedly, Pangong Resort. At our last two destinations viz. Tso Moriri and Tso Kar, we had very limited choices. We chose Tso Moriri Lake View and Tso Kar Eco Resort, humble places with warm beds and lip-smacking food- served piping hot.

The Preparations

Three crazy petroheads- Vishal, Saheer and yours truly, had decided on this epic trip over a number of months of intense discussion and debate. All 3 of us are married with kids, so sensitising our families towards the significance of this trip- what it meant to us boys, why we simply needed to do it, and how it would be perfect just for boys to be going :p, were challenges that had to be surpassed first. And we did that with flying colours…hence this article vrooms it’s way to you.

Our Skoda Yeti was going to be the perfect companion for this audacious attempt. Although ours is 4×2, she has never let us down, even where there are virtually no roads. Dozens of blogs were researched, hundreds of chats and mails were exchanged, calls to riders and drivers who had been there-done that. And specifically for me, information about the amazing wildlife and birding opportunities that this cold desert has on offer.

The various lists we prepared on the Keep app were for-Gadgets, Attire, Medicines, Car essentials and Sundries. It’s a great app for creating your probable itinerary and journey log too. Strongly recommend you to download and use this one. Another wonderful app is Splitwise- it is a must if you want to split expenses with friends on a trip.

On the Road

Early morning on 17th Sept, we set off From Thane at 5 am. Our Yeti was loaded to the hilt (travelling light is something that we are yet to learn). Clothes, more clothes, snacks- mostly home made, extra can of diesel, and a very big camera bag…apart from the 3 occupants.

There’s a kick in starting off early from a city, you zip through all the otherwise crowded areas in a jiffy, and are on the highway at top speed. Chai stops are a must, and are essential pit stops on a long drive. Driver change happened every 3-4 hrs, and so a decent speed was maintained. We planned to reach Leh, via Ajmer-Amritsar-Manali-Jispa route.

Mountains…

The plains were full of rolling green fields, trundling tractors, puttering pumps, and vibrant Punjabi locals. A thick, creamy lassi before we left Punjab was a given, and we gulped down a tall glass before we started the climb. After a while, the hills started with the Hoshiarpur section, and tall lofty peaks were seen in the distance as we neared the bustling town of Kullu. The mighty Beas river was our constant companion through this leg.

The famous Rohtang Pass was also crossed, and we could now see those thrilling Himalayan peaks looming ever close.

Surprisingly, it wasn’t as cold as expected, when we checked into Ibex Hotel, Jispa. (10,500 feet) This is a good place to stay, as it is adjacent to the highway, on the banks of the Bhaga River.

22nd Sept- The most arduous part of our trip was coming up. We endeavored to cover 330 kms from Jispa to Leh, in a single day. Something we won’t advise the faint-hearted. The road upto Sarchu is almost non-existent, and you drive at an average speed of 20 kmph. The healthy suspension of the Yeti proved to be a big relief. The checkpost at Darcha is a compulsory stop, where all tourists have to register.

After breakfast, we laboured to Barlacha La (16,500 ft), where we started experiencing the altitude just a bit. Both Bhaga and Chandra rivers originate from the melting snow on either sides of this pass.

Sarchu is a military base on way, and has a police check post, where we had to register again. It also marks the end of Himachal Pradesh, and The Ladakh region of J & K starts here. The crazy Gata Loops were further down this road. These loops are a continuous section of 22 hairpin bends, that also elevate your altitude by a cool 500 metres.

Post lunch, as we climbed up to the Tanglang La (17,480 ft), we were hit by a bout of AMS- Acute Mountain Sickness, like a bolt from the blue! The whole world was spinning, our heads- especially the rear part, felt numb and leaden. Breathing was difficult, and we were feeling nauseous. Everything seemed fuzzy at that altitude, and as it had also started snowing, the mercury had dipped suddenly. We were still crazy enough to get down for 2 minutes, and shoot a quick V-log. It was very tempting to slow down, and rest a wee bit. But, we didn’t allow ourselves that luxury, because all informative blogs had advised against it, expressly. What a herculean task it was to keep going! Finally, we saw the road descending, and within the next 15 minutes, we were 1000 ft lower, and were breathing much easier!

The road through the Moore Plains, a plateau after the passes, was zip, zap, zoom. We sped across this stretch, often at speeds of 100 kmph, and finally arrived at Leh around 9 pm.

The Land of Gods

This high altitude desert, has some stunning landscapes of myriad varieties. Add to that the bluest skies you’ll ever see, mighty rivers, monasteries steeped in history, rich birdlife and wildlife, and most importantly the warm and friendly Ladakhis…it’s undoubtedly, the Land of Gods.

23rd Sept- We kicked off our local sightseeing with a visit to ‘Hall of Fame’ created by the Indian Army. Hair-raising exploits of our brave armed forces are mentioned here, along with ammunition and the snow suits that protect them from the harsh climate.

The ‘Leh Palace’ was next- an imposing 9 storeyed structure, modeled on the famous Potala Palace of Tibet, built in the 17th century. Sadly, it lies in ruins today, and the restoration work appeared shoddy and myopic. Wonderful bird’s eye view of the city from here.

An hour’s drive from Leh, the ‘Sangam Point’- a confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers. One can clearly see the 2 rivers merging, owing to the difference in coloration. Quite a spectacle! On way back, we stopped at Magnetic Hill- a “gravity hill”. The layout of the area creates an optical illusion such that vehicles appear to roll uphill, in defiance of gravity.

Another interesting stopover on way back was the Gurudwara ‘Baba Patthar Saheb’. An amusing legend is associated with this name, which I won’t spoil for you. We enjoyed the yummiest ‘Karah Prasad’ (sacred pudding) ever tasted in any Gurudwara till date.

24th Sept- Proceeded to Nubra Valley. Crossing the Khardung La- the world’s highest motorable pass (18,380 ft), was the high point. It was very windy, and at 2.5 deg, bone-chilling! Still, a V-log and selfies were a given. A signboard warned visitors not to stay for more than 20 minutes, as it could lead to serious health complications. A Chukar Partridge family spotted by Vishal, on a winding sloping road, was awesome. This bird was a lifer for me.

Just before Nubra, we enjoyed an ATV ride on the sand dunes, and also captured some stunning images by a shallow roadside pool. Bactrian camel ride is fun, and we had fun doing this at Hunder.

25th Sept– The sleepy lanes of Diskit, the chirping of a hundred birds, and fluttering butterflies all have an old world charm. Off we went to the 14th century, Diskit monastery. Every monastery has it’s own style of architecture, and a schedule of prayers that is followed strictly. We were lucky to be there at the time of morning prayers, peacefully chanted by a dozen monks. A 32 metre statue of Maitreya Buddha towers over the landscape, on a hill adjoining the monastery.

A road trip is all about enjoying whatever comes your way- expected as well as unexpected. Since we were running late for our Pangong, a lunch stop was skipped. Instead, we rolled some theplas brought from home, and had them on the go. To avoid the Chang La, we took an adventurous detour- via Aagam, along the Shyok river. We literally drove over the river bed (only open when the waters recede), so roads didn’t exist at all. We were driving over pebbles and boulders almost all through. It was almost dark, by the time we reached Spangmik village on the shores of the pristine Pangong Tso. It was biting cold, and I suffered from my second bout of AMS inside our tent. It felt as if someone was trying to squeeze my lungs out. Everytime I tried to sleep, it felt as if I was being smothered. Very bad time, honestly. I only felt better when I was administered some oxygen the next day.

Pristine Pangong

26th Sept– Nothing, I repeat, nothing prepares you for the visual treat called Pangong Tso. You might have seen hundreds of images, and might have read a bagful of blogs about it…the experience of feasting your eyes on this water body, it’s various shades of blue, navy blue, aquamarine, green, turquoise, and even brown and red at times- turns even the most poetic ones, speechless. It is the largest lake in the Himalayas (130 km long), at an altitude of 13,900 ft. The name Pangong is derived from the Tibetan word, Banggong co-meaning ‘enchanted, long, narrow lake’ . The cool breeze, the gentle waves, the flight of feathered friends, and the sound of silence-all provided a heady mix. We spent around 3 hrs, photographing the lake from various angles, and with a variety of gadgets. Surely, a destination you must visit, before you die.

On our way back to Leh, we visited Hemis Monastery, supposedly the richest in India. They had recently hosted the ‘Himalayan Kumbh Mela’, and so there were additional decorations and lights put up, which only added to it’s grace.

Where very few dare…

27th Sept– A quick visit to the famous Shanti Stupa at Leh, and another stopover at Thiksey Monastery, we were off to the remotest destinations – Tso Moriri and Tso Kar (Tso means lake), around 250 kms from Leh. Talking to policemen and locals at some of the check posts was quite a revelation. They were so eager to speak to us and know more about our journey. By the time we veered off the tar roads, and onto the dusty roads closer to Tso Moriri, we started having doubts about the path. Of course, the offline map was showing that we were on track. But, there was a premonition that we might end up somewhere else. A good Samaritan stopped his car, and guided us all the way up to Korzok, on the shore of the lake. Checked into the hotel, wolfed down food, and we crashed. It was super cold.

28th Sept– What an awesome day! The very reason we were travelling to Tso Kar, which was not even considered by regular tourists, was the Black-necked Cranes, Wild Ass, Wolf and a variety of endemic birds and lesser mammals. And boy, were we blessed beyond imagination. We spotted not one, but 8 marmots in a colony on way. Another cute little fellow was the Himalayan Pika, and the bird list grew richer by a large num ber on this route. Since the roads were so bad, we were forced to go dead slow, and hence the increased sightings! And at night, just before we reached Tso Kar, a Himalayan Wolf raced past us, and then kept staring straight into our bright torch. Thrilling!!!

29th Sept– Our last day in Ladakh. We woke up to see frost on our car, which meant that the mercury had dipped below zero at night. At 7 am, the temperature gauge showed 2 degrees, and we had to keep the engine running, till it reached a healthy 6 degrees. After a decent round of birding around the lake, we finally set off on our return journey. Largely, we got superb roads, all thanks to the BRO (Border Roads Organisation). Off we went via the Moore Plains, Gata loops et al, all the way to Jispa.

The Return

From Jispa, we headed for a refreshing 2 day break at Kasol, and then back to pavilion via Chandigarh and Udaipur.

Thus ended an unforgettable trip…a journey which may not be all that rare nowadays, but it will be forever special for us. The chills and thrills experienced during our Ladakh Road Trip will always hold a special place in our hearts. We may end up doing road trips all over the world, but this will always be remembered as “the first one.”

Pl. write to me at [email protected]

#adventure camp Leh Ladakh Tour river crossing rock climbing tours and travels travel adventure trekking camps wildlife holidays in india wil

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