#galvanized sleeve anchors

[ananka-fasteners]

A Comprehensive Guide to Anchor Bolt Manufacturers in India: Quality and Reliability

Anchor bolts are a crucial component for engineering and construction projects. They act as the backbone to secure the structures as well as equipment onto concrete foundations. They are utilized in a variety of industries from infrastructure development to manufacturing machinery. In this article we'll look at anchor bolts as well as their specifications, dimensions and types, as well as providing the top suppliers and manufacturers in India.

In the context of building, industrial installation and large-scale infrastructures anchor bolts are invisible champions, ensuring security and stability. Anchor bolts are a crucial component that serve as the crucial connection between foundations and structural elements that prevent movement and keeping the integrity of the structure.

As a top manufacturer and supplier as a top manufacturer and supplier in India. We specialize in supplying top-quality anchor bolts that can be used for commercial, industrial, and residential uses. In this article we'll take an in-depth examine the various elements of anchor bolts including their specifications of materials, sizes and their importance in modern-day construction.

What are Anchor Bolts?

Anchor bolts are one type of fastener that is designed to connect the structure or objects to concrete. They are able to support a variety of loads and are utilized in situations where durability and strength are essential. They are used to transfer shear and tensile forces from structural components onto the base.

Anchor bolts are available in a variety of styles, including bent anchor bolts, headed anchor bolts as well as the sleeve anchor that are all suited to particular purposes based on the kind of loads, environmental and the materials employed in construction.

Common Anchor Bolt Standards

A variety of International and Indian standards assure the reliability and quality for anchor bolts. The most important standards are:

IS 5624 Foundation bolts for India.

ASTM F1554 It defines the specifications for anchor bolts of three grades based upon their yield strength at the minimum.

BS 5950 The anchor bolts' design is specified in the BS 5950 that are used in steel structures.

ISO 898-1 The mechanical properties and characteristics of anchor bolts as well as fasteners.

Anchor Bolts Sizes & Standards

Anchor bolts are available in a variety of sizes, based on the type of use. The sizes typically differ in size and diameter. The typical sizes for anchor bolts are M6 or M8 or M10, M12 and M16. The lengths vary from 50mm to 600 mm or more, based on the load bearing capacity.

Here's an example table of dimensions of the anchor bolt:

Materials & Grades of Anchor Fasteners

Anchor bolts are made out of various materials, each one suited to particular conditions or requirements of the project. The most frequently utilized materials and grades are:

1. Stainless Steel Anchor Bolts

Grades: 304, 316

Applications Strongly resistant to corrosion it is used in marine structures, chemical plants and coastal structures.

2. Carbon Steel Anchor Bolts

Grades: ASTM A36, A307

Applications The use of HTML is for general-purpose applications in non-corrosive environments, usually for commercial and residential buildings.

3. High-Strength Steel

Grades: ASTM F1554 Grade 55/105

Applications used for heavy industrial structures bridges, bridges and infrastructure projects where high strength is crucial.

4. Galvanized Anchor Bolts

Finish Hot-dip galvanizing is used to guard against corrosion and rust.

Applications used for outdoor structures or in places that are subject to moisture like signage poles, railings for highways or outdoor machines.

Applications of Anchor Bolts

Anchor bolts are used in different industries that include:

Construction The goal is to secure beams, columns and other structural elements to foundations.

Industrial Machinery: Secure heavy machinery to concrete bases for stability.

Bridges and Dams essential for structures with high loads that require a substantial tensile strength.

Wind turbines Anchor bolts are essential for the installation of wind turbines because of their necessity to ensure stability during high winds.

Conclusion

Anchor bolts are essential in ensuring structural integrity and stability of structures, which makes it crucial to select the correct type, size and grade for the project you are working on. Knowing what specifications and standards and the various kinds of bolts can help to ensure optimal performance. In India many manufacturers and suppliers supply quality anchor bolts that meet the diverse needs of industrial companies.

When you are choosing anchor bolts ensure you consult with a knowledgeable manufacturer and suppliers to ensure that your requirements are met, regardless of whether it's for construction projects of a smaller scale or massive infrastructure projects.

Anchor bolts are an essential component of any construction or industrial project. By choosing the right type, material, and grade, you ensure the safety, stability, and longevity of your structures. As a trusted manufacturer and supplier, we are committed to providing high-quality anchor bolts that meet the diverse needs of our clients.

FAQs About Anchor Bolts

1. Are there any popular kinds of anchor bolts?

Ans. The most common types are J-Bolts, L-Bolts and U-Bolts. Each is a particular shape that can be used for various purposes that range from simple connections for structural components to the securing of poles or pipes.

2. What should I consider when choosing the appropriate type of anchor bolt?

Ans. The selection of the material is based on the environment, including exposure to chemical or water as well as load-bearing requirements and particular project requirements. The stainless steel is ideal for environments with corrosive elements, whereas carbon steel works well for a variety of applications.

3. What is the average life span for anchor bolts?

Ans. The life expectancy of anchor bolts is contingent on the materials used, the quality of installation, as well as the environment. Bolts made of stainless steel and galvanized are more durable in environments that are corrosive.

4. Are anchor bolts a viable option for seismic zone use?

Ans. Yes, certain anchor bolts of certain grades like ASTM F1554, have been designed to be used in seismic zones because of their strength in tensile and their ductility.

[worldbroadhardware]

Other Head Sleeve Anchor

Base Material：1. Concrete 2. Natural hard stone 3. Concrete hollow blocks 4. Solid brick 5. Light aggregate concrete

Application and Features：1.For fastening of penetrating objects, such as handrails and brackets. 2. For installation of doors and windows, wall fastening, and installation of electromechanical equipment.

Surface Treatment：Zinc, Yellow Zinc, Hot Dip Galvanized and passivate ect.

Material：Carbon Steel or Satinless Steel

Head Style：Hex, Flange,Countersunck,Flat,C Style,O Style ect.

Products Size：If you have any demand, please feel free to contact us.Sorry for the inconvenience.

[yoobuyin]

Choosing the Right Hardware

“Screws, Nails, and Anchors: Choosing the Right Hardware for Wood”

Introduction 

1. Screws:

·When to Use: Screws are versatile and ideal for projects where you need a strong and secure connection. They are excellent for joining pieces of wood, assembling furniture, and attaching hardware.

·Where to Choose: For indoor projects, standard wood screws are suitable. For outdoor or treated wood applications, use corrosion-resistant screws like stainless steel or coated screws to prevent rust and corrosion.

2. Nails:

·When to Use: Nails are great for fastening lighter materials or when you need a quick, temporary solution. They are often used in framing, moldings, and other structural applications.

·Where to Choose: Use galvanized or stainless steel nails for outdoor or moist environments to prevent rust. For interior projects, common nails or finish nails work well.

3. Anchors:

·When to Use: Anchors are essential for securing heavy objects or fixtures to walls or ceilings. They provide additional support and prevent items from falling.

·Where to Choose: Select anchors based on the wall material. For drywall, use plastic or self-drilling anchors. For concrete or masonry walls, choose expansion anchors or sleeve anchors. Make sure the anchor’s weight capacity matches the load you intend to hang.

General Tips

1. Wood Type:

· Grain Orientation: Consider the grain orientation of the wood. When fastening into the end grain of a piece of wood, it’s more prone to splitting. In such cases, pre-drilling pilot holes is crucial to preventing this issue.

2. Length and Diameter:

· Thread Length: The length of the threaded portion of a screw should be sufficient to pass through the material you’re joining and provide enough grip. However, be cautious about using screws that are too long, as they can weaken the wood or protrude on the other side.

· Diameter: The diameter of the screw or nail affects its holding power. Larger diameter fasteners generally provide better grip, but be mindful of not making the hole too big, which can weaken the wood.

3. Fastener Head:

· Head Type: Different screw head types have specific uses. For example, flathead screws are ideal for countersinking, while pan head or round head screws provide a finished look. The choice of head type depends on both functionality and aesthetics.

4. Weight and Load:

· Load Calculation: Calculate the anticipated load on your woodworking project and ensure that the selected hardware can bear it. For heavy loads, consider using multiple fasteners and distributing the weight evenly.

· Weight Distribution: Keep in mind that the weight may not be evenly distributed. For instance, shelves may have more weight concentrated at certain points. Choose hardware and attachment points accordingly.

5. Weather Exposure:

· Material Selection: In outdoor applications or areas with high humidity, opt for hardware made of corrosion-resistant materials like stainless steel or brass. These materials can withstand exposure to moisture and prevent rust or corrosion.

· Finish: Some screws and nails come with specialized finishes, such as galvanization or zinc coating, to enhance their resistance to weather and corrosion.

6. Pilot Holes and Clearance Holes:

· Pilot Holes: Drilling pilot holes before inserting screws or nails is essential to prevent wood splitting, especially in hardwoods. The pilot hole should be slightly smaller in diameter than the fastener.

· Clearance Holes: When using screws, consider using a clearance hole for the screw’s shank to pass through, allowing the threads to grip only in the material you’re attaching to, not the initial piece of wood.

7. Tools and Equipment:

· Quality Tools: Invest in high-quality drill bits, screwdrivers, and hammers. Good tools make the installation process easier and ensure a more secure attachment.

· Driver Bits: Use driver bits that match the fastener type (e.g., Phillips, Torx, square) to prevent stripping the screw heads.

8. Safety Considerations:

· Eye and Ear Protection: When drilling or hammering, wear appropriate eye and ear protection to safeguard against flying wood chips and loud noise.

· Proper Techniques: Ensure you’re using proper techniques when fastening hardware to avoid accidents or injury.

By taking into account these suggestions you can make informed choices when it comes to selecting and utilizing screws, nails and anchors for your woodworking endeavors. Thoughtfully considering these factors will lead to a secure woodworking journey.

How Yoobuy can help

https://yoobuy.in/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Untitled-design-1.png

Yoobuy is your one-stop solution for sourcing a wide variety of hardware materials, including screws, nails, anchors, and more. Here’s how Yoobuy can assist you:

1. Extensive Selection: Yoobuy offers an extensive range of hardware options, ensuring you can find the perfect fasteners for your woodworking project.

2. Convenience: You can browse and purchase hardware materials from the comfort of your home, eliminating the need to visit multiple stores.

3. Quality Assurance: Yoobuy sources high-quality hardware, so you can trust that the materials you receive will meet your project’s needs.

4. Expert Guidance: If you’re unsure which hardware to choose, Yoobuy often provides product descriptions and recommendations, helping you make an informed decision.

Conclusion

Selecting the hardware for your woodworking project is crucial to ensure its success. By taking into account your requirements and the recommendations provided above along, with the convenience of Yoobuy you can effortlessly acquire the materials for your woodworking endeavors.

[jimitjain]

The Role of Fasteners in Construction

Fasteners are the unsung heroes of the construction industry, playing a crucial role in the integrity, safety, and longevity of buildings and structures. Ananka Group is the Prominent Fasteners Manufacturers in India. We supply high-quality fasteners to a wide range of businesses globally. Fasteners come in many sizes, shapes, and dimensions. Many things can be linked or fastened using fasteners. They are vital parts of many sectors, such as building, manufacturing, transportation, and household goods. We are the best  Fasteners Manufacturer. 

Types of Fasteners Used in Construction

Fasteners come in various shapes, sizes, and materials, each designed to meet specific requirements. The most common types of fasteners used in construction include:

Nails: Typically used in wood construction, nails are hammered into materials to hold them together. They come in various lengths and thicknesses, designed for different applications.

Screws: Offering more holding power than nails, screws are used in both wood and metal construction. They provide a tighter fit and are easier to remove and replace.

Bolts and Nuts: Essential for heavy-duty applications, bolts and nuts provide a strong, reliable connection. They are commonly used in steel construction and for securing heavy components.

Anchors: Used to attach objects to concrete or masonry, anchors come in several types, including wedge anchors, sleeve anchors, and drop-in anchors.

Washers: Often used in conjunction with bolts and screws, washers distribute the load of the fastener, preventing damage to the material and ensuring a secure fit.

Applications of Fasteners in Construction

Fasteners are used in nearly every aspect of construction, from framing and roofing to finishing and furnishing. Some key applications include:

Framing: Nails and screws are extensively used in framing walls, floors, and roofs. The choice between nails and screws depends on the specific requirements of the structure and the materials being used.

Structural Connections: Bolts and nuts are critical in connecting steel beams and columns, ensuring the structural integrity of the building. These fasteners must be chosen based on their strength and durability to withstand loads and stresses.

Drywall Installation: Screws are the preferred fasteners for attaching drywall to wooden or metal studs. They provide a secure hold and are less likely to pop out over time compared to nails.

Concrete and Masonry: Anchors are used to secure fixtures and fittings to concrete and masonry surfaces. They must be selected based on the type of load they will bear and the material they will be embedded in.

Importance of Choosing the Right Fasteners

Selecting the appropriate fasteners for a construction project is crucial for several reasons:

Structural Integrity: The wrong fastener can compromise the strength and stability of a structure. For example, using nails instead of screws in certain applications may result in a weaker connection that can fail under stress.

Durability: Fasteners must be able to withstand environmental conditions such as moisture, temperature changes, and exposure to chemicals. Corrosion-resistant materials like stainless steel or galvanized fasteners are essential for outdoor or humid environments.

Safety: Using the correct fasteners ensures the safety of the structure and its occupants. Inadequate or improper fastening can lead to structural failures, causing accidents and injuries.

Efficiency: The right fasteners can simplify the construction process, making it faster and more efficient. For instance, self-tapping screws reduce the need for pre-drilling, saving time and effort.

Best Practices for Fastener Selection and Installation

To ensure the optimal performance of fasteners in construction, it is essential to follow best practices in selection and installation:

Consult Standards and Guidelines: Refer to building codes and industry standards to determine the appropriate fasteners for specific applications.

Consider Material Compatibility: Choose fasteners that are compatible with the materials being joined to prevent galvanic corrosion and other issues.

Use Proper Tools: Ensure that the right tools are used for installing fasteners to achieve a secure and accurate fit.

Inspect and Maintain: Regularly inspect fasteners for signs of wear or damage and replace them as needed to maintain the integrity of the structure.

          We now provide our excellent fasteners and rapid shipping to all major Indian cities. We are the most reliable Stainless Steel Fasteners Manufacturer in India. We provide our clients with the greatest prices available on global stainless steel fasteners. These are also used for delicate applications in harsh settings. 

[psfastenerss-blog]

Maximizing Efficiency with Quality Hardware Fasteners for Your Projects

If you're a seasoned DIY enthusiast or a professional in the construction industry, you understand the pivotal role that hardware fasteners play in ensuring the structural integrity and longevity of your projects. In this article, we delve into the world of hardware fasteners, exploring their significance and providing insights into how choosing the right ones can make a substantial difference.

The Foundation: Understanding Hardware Fasteners

Hardware fasteners serve as the unsung heroes of construction, holding together various components to create a robust and stable structure. From screws and bolts to nuts and washers, these small yet mighty components play a crucial role in preventing disintegration and ensuring that your creations stand the test of time.

Choosing the Right Fastener for the Job

Screws: The Versatile Workhorse

When it comes to securing materials with precision, screws take center stage. Available in various types, including wood screws, machine screws, and self-tapping screws, each variant serves a unique purpose. Wood screws, for instance, excel in connecting wooden components, while machine screws are ideal for metal-to-metal applications.

Bolts and Nuts: The Dynamic Duo

For heavy-duty projects that demand resilience, bolts and nuts form an inseparable alliance. Whether you're assembling structural steel or fixing machinery, the right combination of bolts and nuts ensures a steadfast connection. Pay attention to factors such as material, thread type, and head style to make an informed choice.

Anchors: Securing Foundations with Precision

When anchoring objects to concrete or masonry, anchors come into play. From wedge anchors to sleeve anchors, each type addresses specific needs. Consider the load capacity and the substrate material to select the anchor that guarantees a secure attachment.

Quality Over Quantity: The Importance of Material Selection

The longevity and durability of your projects heavily depend on the quality of the hardware fasteners you choose. Opt for materials like stainless steel or galvanized steel, which offer corrosion resistance, ensuring that your structures withstand the test of time and environmental elements.

Conclusion: Building a Solid Future with Reliable Fasteners

In conclusion, hardware fasteners are the unsung heroes that uphold the structural integrity of your projects. By understanding their diverse applications and selecting the right ones for the job, you pave the way for robust, enduring creations. Choose quality over quantity, invest in the right materials, and contribute to the thriving community supporting innovation in this essential aspect of construction.

[xtanchor2019]

Sleeve-Anchors

Product Name: Sleeve Anchor Surface treatment: Bright zinc plated,Yellow zinc plated,Hot Dip Galvanized Material: carbon steel ,Stainless steel Grade: 4.8/5.8/6.8/ 8.8 Size: M10X12X70 Diameter: 12mm Application: concrete,stone,rovk.manble,brick wall

[daviddai-dgchuanghe]

Sleeve Anchor Galvanized Wedge Different Size Expansion Bolts #SleeveAnchors #expansionbolts #anchorbolts #Fixbolts #wedgeanchorScrew #Elevatorexpansionbolts #edgeAnchor #sleevetypeanchorbolts #ConcreteWedgeanchor

Email：dgchuanghe@gmail.com

[fixdex-fastening-technology]

Sleeve Anchor Bolt Drop in Anchor

Click here to see more of this product

[constructionblog]

How to Incorporate Wedge Anchors into a Construction Project

Mechanical bolts are fasteners that secure the structure using wedges. A mechanical bolt is fitted with a sleeve that terminates in a wedge arrangement. When the bolt is tightened, the wedge is driven into the sleeve and jams, providing additional strength. Anchors with wedges are used to secure masonry and concrete structures. These are ideal for assisting in the support of large structures. Continue reading to learn more about these anchors.

To install wedge anchors, a hammer drill equipped with a carbide drill bit and compressed air or vacuum are required. Cleaning and preparing the hole for the wedge anchor is the first step in installation. After cleaning the hole, insert the anchor's nut and threaded end. Tighten and hammer the nut until it penetrates 5 to 6 threads below the surface.

Wedge anchors are available in a variety of materials. Although zinc plated is the most common type, other finishes are available. There are carbon wedge anchors available. Consider the structural and environmental requirements of the setting when selecting a wedge. In corrosive environments, wedge anchors made of hot dipped galvanized steel or stainless steel are ideal. Rust resistance is also critical for securing concrete structures.

Concrete structures are secured using wedge anchors. A hammer drill, a carbide drill bit, and compressed air or a vacuum are required to install wedge anchors. The hole must be clean and drilled to the specified depth, plus an additional 1/2" to allow for dust accumulation during installation. Wedge anchors should be hammered five to six threads below the surface and should be installed as deeply as possible.

The best method for installing wedge anchors is to use a hammer drill. When installing wedge anchors, ensure that the screw diameter of the anchor is compatible with the diameter of the concrete. In general, the size of the anchor is determined by the material's diameter and thickness. Additionally, a hammer drill is more effective than a standard power drill because it is more reliable. If you are unsure of the hole diameter, you can contact the manufacturer or order a custom-made set.

Prior to installing the Wedge Anchor, ensure that the screwdriver is equipped with a hammer for driving the screwdriver into the concrete. The hammer will enlarge the hole more than a standard power drill will. The hammer will assist in driving the screws into the concrete when installing the Wedge Anchor. This is best accomplished with a hammer drill. The torque should be at least half that of the cement's required tensile strength.

Anchors made of wedges can be used to secure steel and concrete structures. Wedge Anchors' holding power is determined by the type of concrete used in the project. It is critical to keep in mind that the depth of embedding will dictate the amount of weight that the anchor can support. Additionally, to ensure maximum strength, the Wedge Anchor must be well embedded in the concrete. To secure metal and wood, a minimum of ten Wedge Anchors should be used.

[gurukrupawire]

How are barbed wires used and what precautions to take while using them?

While choosing the perfect fencing material for your property, residential land or commercial property, you might need specialized assistance in selecting the right one, especially if you are doing it for the first time. However, when you consider the options available in the market then you must know that there you have a wide array of options to select from and few of the choices include woven-wire, synthetic, wood, high-tensile-wire, electric high tensile wire, and barbed wire. In this write-up, let us briefly discuss about barbed wire and its application and what you must avoid while using the same.

Barbed wire – Precautions

It is not very difficult to zero-in on one of the reliable barbed wire manufacturers Gujarat because there are many operating in the market offering these wires for various applications. In fact, the majority of the people used these types of wires for fencing. And these wires were also the first material to be used for fencing. And you can use them to protect livestock as well. They find wide usage even in those areas which are designated as war zones so that the enemies cannot cross the specified territories. However, you can avoid using the barbed wires for the purpose of horse fencing to prevent injuries while crossing the fence.

Crossing fences made up of these wires can lead to injuries if you are not careful enough. Animals like cows that are slow moving and can withdraw themselves at the very first sensation of any discomfort can be kept inside fences but not fast-moving animals like horses.

What is it made up of?

It is basically made up of pointed steel projections present all along its length. You will come across a few variations of the same too, one of the most prominent ones being galvanized barbed wire. Galvanized barbed wire suppliers India companies offer these wires at various rates depending on the requirement and length you need. All you need to do is contact some of the reputable manufacturers in the market to ask about their rates. Compare their individual rates in order to streamline your search and pick the one that goes well within your budget.

Installing the barbed wires

If you are trying to anchor these wires to the corner post, there are many ways you can do it. Some of the common methods include the following-

Wire vise – In this type of arrangement, the wire passes through a hole that has been drilled into the corner post. Ideally, you must place the anchor far away from the corner post.

Hand-knotting – You will have to use your hand to tie the knot after you wrap the corner post around it.

Apart from the 2 options as cited above, there are 2 other ways to anchor the wire, namely, wire wrap and crimp sleeves. It will not be wrong to say that for fencing purposes, you can use other types of wires mentioned above in combination with the barbed wires. Last but not least, you can even seek expert’s help if you’re not that confident enough

[flagpolesetcs]

Residential External Flagpoles

External Halyard Flagpoles

Get yourself a residential external flagpole during this pandemic.

This flagpoles basic, traditional style Aluminum External Halyard Flagpole is simple to rig and will last for years with minimal maintenance. Our residential external halyard flagpoles are constructed of 6063-T6 aluminum, an alloy that is strong but lightweight and rust resistant.

The pole is finished with a directional sanded satin ground. For an additional charge, you may choose from six other powder coat or anodized finishes. For more information, see our Custom Order Options below

A halyard is the rope that is used to raise and lower the flag and to maintain the position that the flag is set at. External flagpoles can easily move your flag up and down, making it one of the most convenient, most popular styles sold.

Our External Halyard Standard Residential Aluminum Flagpoles, Ground Set, Include The Following:

Material: Alloy 6063-T6 aluminum tubing with uniform conical taper

Finish: Directional sanded satin ground is standard or choose from six other powder coat paint or anodized finishes at additional charge

Finials: Gold anodized aluminum ball with flush seam

Truck: Stationary, single metal sheave with pulley

Halyard: One (1/4-dia.) braided polypropylene ropes each with two chrome plated bronze swivel snap hooks per halyard. Upon Request, we will add two additional NYLON flag snaps at no charge, this enables you to fly 2 flags at once on your flagpole.

Cleats: One 9-inch cast aluminum, each attached with two 5/16-inch stainless steel screws

Foundation: Ground Set foundation -  PVC sleeve comes with Residential Flagpoles and a Corrugated Steel Sleeve with grounding spike comes with Commercial Flagpoles.

Custom Order Options:

Foundations: Shoe Base foundation - Cast aluminum shoe base with four galvanized steel anchor bolts and galvanized steel hex nuts, washers and lock washers. Tilting shoe base available on residential flagpoles less than 30 ft.

Finishes: Choose from many standard or custom powder paint colors or anodized finishes, or specify your own color.

https://www.flagpolesetc.com/flagpoles/aluminum/aluminum-residential-external-halyard-flagpoles

***WE OFFER NATION-WIDE INSTALLATIONS***

Call To Schedule (888)735-5591 We cannot do installations in Alaska or Hawaii.

[ananka-fasteners]

Ananka

Q1) Are there hex bolts specifically designed for masonry applications?

Ans) Certainly, hex bolts designed specifically for masonry applications are commonly referred to as "anchor bolts" or "masonry anchor bolts." These bolts are utilized to affix items to surfaces like concrete, brick, stone, or other masonry materials. The key disparity between regular hex bolts and masonry anchor bolts lies in their structural configuration and how they interact with the masonry substance.

Masonry anchor bolts generally encompass several attributes that render them suitable for masonry use:

1. Thread Design: The threading on masonry anchor bolts is often crafted to enhance grip and engagement with masonry materials. Frequently, they exhibit a coarser thread pattern, which aids in biting into the relatively softer masonry base.

2. Material and Coating: Masonry anchor bolts are frequently forged from materials that provide enhanced corrosion resistance, such as stainless steel or galvanized steel. This is pivotal due to the exposure of these bolts to moisture in masonry contexts, which can lead to rust over time. In some cases, coatings like zinc or other forms of corrosion-resistant treatments may also be applied.

3. Head Design: Although the head design of masonry anchor bolts can vary, they often feature a configuration that ensures a flush or slightly countersunk fit with the masonry surface. This design serves to prevent tripping hazards and facilitates a tidy and secure installation.

4. Installation Techniques: The installation of masonry anchor bolts might necessitate distinct methods when compared to regular hex bolts. Depending on their specific design, they could call for pre-drilled holes, specialized anchors, or other hardware to guarantee a steadfast attachment to the masonry.

5. Load-Bearing Capacity: Masonry anchor bolts are meticulously engineered to endure the specific loads and forces inherent to masonry applications. They are frequently rated based on their capacity to carry loads, considering factors like the type of masonry material and the dimensions and design of the bolt.

When deploying masonry anchor bolts, it's imperative to adhere closely to the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for installation. Incorrect installation can imperil the integrity of the attachment, potentially leading to safety hazards.

It's noteworthy that a diverse array of masonry anchor bolt types exists in the market, including wedge anchors, sleeve anchors, and concrete screws, each tailored to distinct designs and use cases. To ensure the optimal choice of masonry anchor bolt for your specific application, it's advisable to consult professionals or experts in the field.

Elevator Bolt Manufacturers in Mumbai

Q2) How do you remove a hex nut that has become rusted or frozen?

Ans) Eliminating a rusted or frozen hex nut can present challenges, yet there are various strategies you can employ. Bear in mind that the effectiveness of these approaches may vary depending on the extent of the rust and your access to the nut. Here are some commonly employed techniques:

1. Penetrating Oil: Apply penetrating oil, such as WD-40 or PB Blaster, onto the rusted threads of the hex nut. Allow the oil to seep in for several hours or overnight. The oil aids in corroding the rust and lubricating the threads, facilitating easier nut turning.

2. Heat: Employ a heat source, like a propane torch, to warm the vicinity around the rusted nut. The expansion and contraction resulting from the heat can help break the rust's grip. Be careful not to overheat or damage adjacent components.

3. Vice Grips or Locking Pliers: If there's enough space, employ vice grips or locking pliers to grasp the hex nut's edges. Apply steady, consistent pressure while turning counterclockwise. This technique can dislodge the rust's hold, initiating nut rotation.

4. Impact Wrench: An impact wrench delivers forceful bursts of rotational energy, aiding in dislodging a stubborn hex nut. However, its applicability might be limited by confined spaces or if the nut is situated delicately.

5. Nut Splitter: A nut splitter is a specialized tool engineered to split open recalcitrant nuts. It achieves this by making cuts into the nut, without harming the underlying bolt or stud.

6. Drilling: In extreme cases, you may have to cautiously drill into the center of the rusted nut. This action weakens the nut's structure, facilitating its removal. Nonetheless, drilling poses a risk of damaging the underlying thread or bolt and should be a last resort.

7. Hammer and Chisel: Utilize a chisel and hammer to carefully craft a small notch on the nut's edge. This affords enhanced grip for wrenches or pliers, enabling nut rotation.

Prior to attempting any of these methods, it's imperative to exercise caution to avert additional harm to adjacent components. If you're dealing with a valuable or vital part or feel uncertain about your capabilities, seeking guidance from a seasoned professional mechanic or technician accustomed to such scenarios is prudent.

Hex Nut Suppliers

Q3) What is the impact of using plain washers in reducing friction between surfaces?

Ans) Plain washers are often used in mechanical applications to distribute the load, prevent surface damage, and reduce friction between two surfaces. While their primary function is not to reduce friction, they can have a minor impact on friction due to their ability to provide a smooth interface between the nut, bolt head, or other fastener and the material being fastened. However, this effect is generally limited.

Here's how plain washers can impact friction reduction:

1. Surface Smoothness: Plain washers have a smooth surface that can help reduce the direct contact between the fastener and the material being fastened. This can result in slightly less friction compared to direct contact between rougher surfaces.

2. Pressure Distribution: Washers distribute the load over a larger surface area. When a nut or bolt head is tightened down, the washer spreads the force across a wider region. This can help minimize localized pressure points that might lead to increased friction.

3. Surface Protection: Washers can prevent damage to the material being fastened. If the fastener's contact point is rough or uneven, it could cause wear or damage to the material. A washer provides a protective barrier that can reduce friction caused by abrasion or surface imperfections.

It's important to note that while washers can have a slight impact on reducing friction, the primary purpose of using washers is not friction reduction but rather load distribution and surface protection. If your main concern is reducing friction, you might consider using lubricants or anti-friction coatings specifically designed for that purpose.

Additionally, the impact of using plain washers to reduce friction is relatively minor compared to other methods such as using lubricants, choosing materials with lower coefficients of friction, or ensuring proper surface finish and alignment. If friction reduction is a critical factor in your application, it's advisable to explore other solutions beyond the use of plain washers alone.

High Tensile Fasteners

Q4) How do you remove a stud bolt that has become rusted or frozen?

Ans) Removing a rusted or frozen stud bolt can be challenging, but there are several methods you can try. The approach you choose will depend on the severity of the rust and the access you have to the stud. Here are some common methods:

1. Penetrating Oil: Apply a penetrating oil, such as WD-40 or PB Blaster, to the rusted threads of the stud. Allow the oil to penetrate for several hours or overnight. The oil helps break down the rust and lubricate the threads, making it easier to turn the stud.

2. Heat: Use a propane torch or similar heat source to heat the area around the rusted stud. The expansion and contraction caused by the heat can help break the rust's grip. Be careful not to overheat the surrounding components, and always follow safety precautions.

3. Double Nuts: If there's enough exposed thread, you can use two nuts tightened against each other on the stud. Hold one nut with a wrench and use another wrench to turn the second nut counterclockwise. The pressure between the two nuts can help break the rust's hold on the threads, allowing you to turn the stud.

4. Vice Grips or Locking Pliers: If there's enough exposed length of the stud, you can grip onto it with vice grips or locking pliers. Apply steady and even pressure while turning counterclockwise. This method can help you break the rust's hold and start turning the stud.

5. Impact Tools: Impact tools like impact wrenches or pneumatic hammers can provide bursts of rotational force that can help loosen a stubborn stud. Be cautious when using these tools, as they can sometimes cause damage if not used properly.

6. Cutting: In extreme cases where the stud is beyond saving, you might need to cut it off. You can use a hacksaw, reciprocating saw, or angle grinder with a cutting wheel to carefully cut the stud. This should be done with care to avoid damaging the underlying material.

7. Heat and Cooling: The "heat and cool" method involves heating the stud with a torch and then quickly cooling it with cold water. The rapid contraction caused by the cooling can help break the rust's grip.

8. Nut Splitter: A nut splitter is a specialized tool designed to crack open nuts or studs that are too difficult to remove conventionally. It works by cutting into the stud without damaging the underlying material.

Before attempting any of these methods, it's crucial to exercise caution to avoid damaging surrounding components or causing injury. If you're not comfortable or experienced with these techniques, consider seeking help from a professional mechanic or technician.

Carbon Steel Fasteners

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Trampoline: Best Trampoline 2018 (Buying Guide)

How do you merge fun and fitness? Get a trampoline!

A trampoline allows you to shed excess pounds through a unique form of exercise called ‘rebounding’, simply put, you jump, land, bounce and do it all over again. It’s a whole-body exercise that lets you lose weight, stay fit, improve balance and posture, and the enjoyable part? You rekindle your childhood playfulness!

We will give you  the 5 Best Trampolines.

1.  SkyBound Orion Oval Trampoline with Full Enclosure Net System

First on the list is the SkyBound Orion Oval Trampoline with Full Enclosure Net System, a flagship product of SkyBound USA and the first of its kind to debut in North America. This product is meticulously engineered to provide outstanding bounce quality, durability, and protection. It comes with 100% satisfaction guarantee and a 10-year frame warranty.

The SkyBound Orion Oval Trampoline is primarily designed to exceed performance expectation. It offers ultimate rebound which satisfied users describe as “getting the best of both worlds” because it fuses the bounce performance of a circular and a rectangular trampoline. Its superior responsiveness is due to its premium 104 black powder-coated 9-inch springs and upgraded outdoor components.

To ensure user safety, the SkyBound Orion Oval Trampoline has a patented full-enclosure curved safety net made of superb polyethylene material for long-term durability and complete protection against UV rays. It prevents jumpers from bouncing to the ground or to the steel frame.

Moreover, it uses PVC top-sleeves, elastic hooks, and velcro straps for efficient and easy installation. The patent-pending proprietary extended safety mat fully covers the springs and acts as an added safety barrier against accidental contact with the frame, springs, or safety pad.

You can Keep up with your fitness workout or enjoy stress-free bonding moments with your family with the SkyBound Orion Oval Trampoline all year round. Its All-Weather resistant XPE enclosure foam gives perpetual endurance against the wind, rain, snow, and UV rays. The foam is tested to last up to 3 times the capability of standard foam. It also employs a push-pin bolt technology for lightning-quick set-up.

So, embrace the freedom and bounce sky-high with one of the best trampolines in the market today- the SkyBound Orion Oval Trampoline.

2.  JumpSport 14' Elite

Next on our list is the JumpSport 14' Elite. This superior trampoline promises 360-degree protection for its users. It has a strong, durable enclosure net that prevents jumpers from falling off while playing. Its safety net is mounted on the inside of the poles, making the installation quick and easy. It also features a patented No Zipper Unforgettable Overlapping Doorway so you can climb inside without a fuss plus, it keeps the enclosure closed and zipped at all times.

The JumpSport 14' Elite comes in different sizes ranging from 10, 12, up to 14 inches in diameter. The materials of this trampoline are long-lasting, high-quality and are proven to withstand extreme sun and rain.

It also takes pride of its StageBounced technology, a patented spring system, for better bouncing performance and soft lands through its 8.5-inch tapered steel springs. You can enjoy all the smooth bounces without compromising your safety.

It has a Permatron jumping mat with ten rows of stitching for utmost safety and performance, reinforced by looped straps and steel V-rings connecting the springs to the mat. Also, the JumpSport 14' Elite has a special lock to prevent the frames from sudden twisting.

Its 14-inch wide and 1-inch thick frame pad is supported by an expanded polyethylene foam equal to gym-quality material. It is covered with a PVC outer shell that is both UV and water resistant.

This 307-pound product is a great bonding activity for growing families and is a fun experience for people of all ages.

3.  JumpKing 10 inches by 15 inches Rectangular Combo

Third on our list is the JumpKing 10 inches by 15 inches Rectangular Combo. This trampoline beats the traditional ones in terms of jumping area offered. It features a patented, fully integrated enclosure system made of polyethylene material to ensure the safety of jumpers, especially kids. You and your family can, no doubt, expect a one-of-a-kind outdoor fun.

This product is made of high-quality materials and has met the ASTM standards for safety and durability. Its galvanized steel frames and 7-inch springs are sturdy enough to provide you a soft and much higher bouncing experience. It has T-sockets and a galvanized frame to prevent the trampoline from twisting suddenly.

This JumpKing trampoline weighs 100 pounds and its edges are covered by thick foam pads to increase user safety. The oversized foam padding is made up of 100% polypropylene, a material considered the best by most trampoline manufacturers.

This product is ideal for people of all ages and will form a delightful sight when installed in your backyard. It’s easy to set up and the package includes tools such as a spring puller and an anchor kit.

It can only hold one user at a time while the maximum weight limit is 220 pounds. The JumpKing 10 inches by 15 inches Rectangular Combo will definitely hone your kid’s gymnastic skills and yours, too!

4.  Upper Bounce Trampoline and Enclosure Set Equipped with The Easy Assemble Feature

At number four, we have the Upper Bounce Trampoline and Enclosure Set Equipped with The Easy Assemble Feature. The features of this product prove that it is an excellent choice. It can also accommodate any family size or backyard.

The Safety Pad, Jumping Mat, Foam Sleeves, and Safety Enclosure Net of the Upper Bounce Trampoline are all 100% Ultra-Violet (UV) and Water resistant.  This product is designed with customer safety in mind so it uses high-premium polypropylene (PP) mesh material for the Jumping Mat, secured with an 8-row stitching for long-lasting durability. Its 1-inch thick, closed-cell foam Safety Pads are extremely shock-absorbent and provide maximum protection for jumpers.  

Still on safety, the Upper Bounce Trampoline comes with a No-Gap Enclosure System. The enclosure net is made of high-quality Terylene mesh material with small, minimal gaps and buckled, zipped dual closure entry. This design eliminates the risk of limb injury while bouncing up and down the trampoline.

The Upper Bounce Trampoline also features a sleek, rust-resistant Powder-Coated Steel Frame and legs. The Crack-resistant and Heavy-Duty Galvanized Springs are specially crafted to provide increased bouncing motion. Each leg has a welded joint to an enclosure pole opening to keep it standing firm and tall.

This product promises easy assembling and disassembling with no hardware necessary. You can also winterize your trampoline with weather covers, sold separately. The size range varies from 7.5 to 16 feet.

So bounce up high and have fun like never before with the Upper Bounce Trampoline.

5.  Pure Fun Dura-bounce Trampoline Set

Last but absolutely not the least is the Pure Fun Dura-bounce Trampoline Set. Not only your kids will enjoy this outdoor toy. The entire family, together with friends and neighbors can join in the fun! An instant backyard favorite for sure.

The materials used for this trampoline is of top-notch quality to give you the ultimate bouncing experience. Expect consistent smooth landing, thanks to its high-quality galvanized springs. The rust-resistant, galvanized steel frame with six U-shaped legs provides sturdiness and stability while the thick, weather and UV-resistant polypropylene jumping mat offer durability and extra protection. It can hold up to 350 pounds maximum.

The enclosure of this trampoline set is carefully designed with a secure zipper, padded poles and a buckle for added safety. And if you’re still not convinced, allow us to tell you that it is approved by the American Society for Testing and Materials and is also TUV/GS-certified, meaning it has met both quality and safety standards.

By now, with all these features, it may sound like this is one complex trampoline to set up. Truth is, the Pure Fun Trampoline Set only requires minimal assembly. So easy to set up, it doesn’t take long until you can climb in and jump right away.

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Easy Release Transom Bracket for Baitwell Pumps

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Plumbing Terminology

From Frodo at http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=88104#post88104

Glossary term sources:

http://www.horizonservicesinc.com/re...mbing-glossary

http://www.plumbingmart.com/plumbing-glossary-a.html

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/terms/

ABS: Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. A black plastic pipe used in plumbing for drains and vents.

Absorption Field: A leaching or seeping drain field engineered to receive septic tank effluent.

Adjustable Hot Limit Stop: Restricts hot water output in single control faucets and showers to protect against scalding by limiting the swing to the hot side.

Aerator: A screen-like insert screwed onto a faucet outlet. It mixes air with the flowing water to reduce splashing.

Air Admittance Valve: (AAV) Studor vent. Cheater valve. A plumbing device that replaces a traditional vent to allow air to enter the pipe and equalize pressure, preserving the seal of water in the fixture trap.

Air Break: (Drainage System). A piping arrangement in which a drain from a fixture, appliance or device discharges indirectly into another fixture, receptacle or interceptor at a point below the flood level rim and above the trap seal.

Air Chambers: Pressure absorbing devices that eliminate water hammer. They should be installed as close as possible to the valves or faucet and at the end of long runs of pipe.

Air Gap: (Drainage System). The unobstructed vertical distance through the free atmosphere between the outlet of the waste pipe and the flood level rim of the receptacle into which the waste pipe is discharging.

Air Gap: (Water Distribution System). The unobstructed vertical distance through the free atmosphere between the lowest opening from any pipe or faucet supplying water to a tank, plumbing fixture or other device and the flood level rim of the receptacle.

Air Lock: A bubble of air which restricts the flow of water in a pipe.

Anode Rod: A sacrificial rod installed in a water heater, composed of one or more metals that protects the tank from corrosion, helping to extend the life of the tank.

Auger (or Closet Auger): A bendable rod with curved end used by plumbers to remove clogs from a toilet’s trap.

Back Flow: When water traveling from one system backs into any part of the main distribution system, usually by siphoning.

Back Flow Preventer: A device to prevent back flow, especially into a potable water supply. Required for sprinkler systems, handheld showers, pullout faucet spouts, and kitchen sprayers.

Back Pressure: Pressure that resists the flow of fluid in a piping system.

Back-siphonage: negative pressure in the piping system which results in backflow. Commonly prevented with a vacuum breaker or air gap.

Backup: Overflow of a plumbing fixture due to drain stoppage.

Baffle:An object placed in an appliance to change the direction of, or slow down the flow of air, gases or water.

Balancing Valve: A water heater valve that controls water flow and balances heat distribution to different locations.

Ball Check Valve: A valve that uses a ball to seal against a seat to stop flow in one direction.

Ball Joint: A spherical assembly in shower heads that allows the head to pivot and rotate.

Ballcock: A valve in the tank of a gravity-operated toilet that controls refilling of the tank. It is connected to a float via a metal arm. After flushing, the toilet refills until the float rises high enough to shut off the valve.

Bathroom Group: Term to describe the common bathroom. One toilet, one sink, one bathtub/shower.

Bidet: A plumbing fixture similar in appearance to a toilet bowl used for personal hygiene. It is floor mounted, usually next to a toilet, and consists of a washing basin, faucet and sprayer.

Blackwater: Waste water from a toilet.

Bleed: To drain a pipe of excess air by opening a valve at the end of the pipe.

Blow Torch: A torch used by plumbers to solder pipes, activated by pressurized fuel and air to generate its flame.

Blowbag: A drain-cleaning device consisting of a rubber bladder with a hose fitting on one end and a nozzle on the other. The device attaches to a water hose and is inserted into a clogged drainpipe. As water is introduced, it expands to grip the pipe, and releases pulsating bursts of water through the nozzle, forcing water through the pipe to clear the obstruction. Also known as a blowfish.

Blowdown: Partial venting or draining, under pressure, of the water side of a boiler to reduce or remove unwanted contaminants. Also the pressure drops after releasing a pressure-relief valve.

Boiler: A sealed tank where water is turned to steam for heating or power.

Boiler Feed: A check valve controlling inlet water flow to a boiler.

Bonnet: The top portion of a compression valve assembly, it holds the valve in place as it is tightened against the valve seat at the other end of the assembly.

Brackish Water: Water containing bacteria between 1,000 and 15,000 ppm of dissolved solids.

Branch Vent: A vent pipe connecting one or more individual vents with a vent stack or stack vent.

Brass: Slang for faucets and fittings regardless of materials used.

Burst Pressure: The internal pressure that will cause a piece of tubing to fail.

Branch Drain: Plumbing fixture drain that leads to the main drain line.

Bushing: A fitting that’s threaded inside and outside that joins pipes of different sizes.

CC Connection: A term for a Copper Connection. (a shower water valve denoted as CC usually requires soldering).

Check valve: A device that allow flow in only one direction.

Circuit Vent: A vent that connects to a horizontal drainage branch and vents two traps to a maximum of eight traps or trapped fixtures connected into a battery.

Cistern:

a tank for storing water. (aka reservoir)

CPVC: Acronym for chlorinated polyvinyl chloride. A black plastic pipe that can handle high temperatures. Mostly used in water supply systems.

Cleanout Plug: A plug in a trap or drain pipe that provides access for the purpose of clearing an obstruction.

Closet Bend: A curved waste pipe fitting under a toilet that connects the closet flange to the drain.

Closet Flange: A ring that anchors the toilet to the floor and connects it to the closet bend. Also known as a Floor Flange or Toilet Flange.

Collar: A galvanized sheet metal restricting device used in conjunction with plastic pipe. Its function is to direct and control the intumescent action of the firestopping material.

Common Vent: An individual vent is permitted to vent two traps or trapped fixtures as a common vent. The traps or trapped fixtures being common vented shall be located on the same floor level

Compression Fitting: A kind of tubing or pipe connection where a nut and a sleeve or ferrule is placed over a copper or plastic tube and is compressed tightly around the tube as the nut is tightened forming a positive grip and seal without soldering. See Slip Joint.

Coupling: A short fitting used to join two pieces of pipe.

Cowl: A short fitting used to join two pieces of pipe.

Cross Connection: Any physical connection or arrangement between two otherwise separate piping systems, one of which contains potable water and the other either water of unknown or questionable safety or steam, gas, or chemical whereby there may be a flow from one system to the other, the direction of flow depending on the pressure differential between the two systems.

Crown Vent: A vent for a plumbing fixture in which the vent pipe is connected at the top of the curve in the pipe that forms the trap or within 2 pipe diameters of the trap.

Dam: A barrier in the trapway of a toilet that controls the water level in the toilet bowl.

Diaphragm: A flexible membrane in a valve that deflects down onto a rigid area of the valve body to regulate water flow from the supply lines. This eliminates the possibility of debris build-up within the valve.

Die: Cutting device used to thread pipe. A set of these attach to dieheads, and mounted on a threader.

Dielectric: A nonconductor of direct electric current.

Diffuser: A device used to reduce the velocity and increasing the static pressure of a fluid passing through a system.

Dip Tube: A tube inside the water heater that sends cold water to the bottom of the tank.

Disposal Field: (aka septic drain field) An area containing a series of one or more trenches lined with coarse aggregate and conveying the effluent from the septic tank through vitrified clay pipe or perforated, non-metallic pipe, laid in such a manner that the flow will be distributed with reasonable uniformity into natural soil.

Diverter: A faucet valve that redirects water from the tub faucet to the shower head.

Dope: A lubricant used by plumbers on pipe threads. Often called “pipe dope”.

Drain-Waste-Vent System: (DWV) A pipe system that drains wastewater from the bathroom and vents the drain system.

Drop Ell: An elbow having lugs for attaching it to a wall or joist. (aka Drop Elbow). Often used to connect supply line for handheld showerheads or sprayers.

Drum Trap: A type of water seal-type trap usually used in the 4x5-inch or 4x8-inch sizes. These traps have a greater sealing capacity than the "P" trap and pass large amounts of water quickly. Commonly connected to bathtubs, foot baths, sitz baths, and modified shower baths. No longer allowed in many jurisdictions due to not being self-scouring.

Effluent: Septic system liquid waste.

Effluent Treatment System: Physical, chemical, and biological processes are used to remove contaminants and produce treated wastewater that is safer for the environment.

Elbow: A curved fitting, usually 90° or 45°, used to change the direction of a pipe run. Also called an “ell.”

Escutcheon: A decorative metal flange or plate that covers and hides the supply line hole in the fixture or wall.

Ferrule: A ring, cap, or band (typically metal) that strengthens or forms a joint. 

FIP: (aka FTP or Female Pipe Thread) Acronym for Female Iron Pipe (or Female International Pipe). Describes a pipe or fitting with threads on the interior.

Fitting: Any part that joins together two sections of pipe. Comes in many shapes, sizes & connection styles. Examples: elbows, couplings, bends, wyes, etc.

Fixture: Anything that accepts or discharges water or wastewater: faucets, sinks, toilets, tubs.

Flange: The rim or edge at end of a pipe shaft that aids in connecting it to another pipe or anchoring it to a surface.

Flapper: A rubber flap with ball-like shape in the bottom of a toilet lifts to allow flushing and seals off the tank for refilling. Allows water to flow from the tank into the bowl.

Flex Coupling: A rubber fitting that uses steel band clamps to attach to the pipe ends. Mostly used to join sections of DWV pipe, but also connects PVC to clay or cast iron pipe.

Flow Control Valve: Device designed to reduce water flow to a plumbing fixture. Often used to improve efficiency and reduce operating costs.

Flow Rate: Measurement of water flow through a plumbing system in gallons per minutes (GPM) or gallons per hour (GPH).

Flood-Level Rim: The edge of a plumbing fixture or receptacle over which water would flow if it were full.

Float Ball: A floating device connected to the ballcock inside the toilet tank to activate or shut off the ballcock.

Flush Valve: A device located at the bottom of the tank for flushing water closets and similar fixtures.

Flushometer Valve: A device that discharges a predetermined quantity of water to fixtures for flushing purposes and is closed by direct water pressures.

Flux: A jelly-like substance used in soldering copper pipes and fittings. Applied before soldering to aid bonding and prevent oxidation.

French Drain: (also trench drain, filter drain, blind drain, rubble drain, rock drain, drain tile, perimeter drain, land drain, French ditch, sub-surface drain, sub-soil drain or agricultural drain) is a trench filled with gravel or rock or containing a perforated pipe that redirects surface water and groundwater away from an area. 

Galvanizing: The process of applying a coating of zinc to the finished product to provide corrosion protection. The coating can be applied by hot dipping or electrolytic deposition.

FUBAR: Acronym for F***ed Up Beyond All Recognition"

Gasket: Flat device usually made of fiber or rubber used to provide a watertight seal between metal joints.

Gate: A device that controls the flow in a conduit, pipe, or tunnel.

Gate Diverter: The pop-up lever on a tub faucet that activates the diverter valve.

Gauge: The thickness of stainless steel and is commonly used in reference to quality grades on certain types of lavatories and sinks. 10 and 20-gauge stainless steel sinks go through a number of polishing and buffing operations to ensure a beautiful finish.

GPF: Stands for Gallons Per Flush. The rate of water flow by which toilets and flush valves are measured and regulated. Current law requires maximum of 1.6 GPF. Older styles were usually 3.5 GPF.

Gravity Operated Toilet: A toilet which relies on the natural downward pressure of water in a toilet tank to flush the toilet effectively.

Grease Trap: A device that captures grease entering a system before it reaches the sewer lines. Usually used in commercial applications such as restaurants or cafeterias.

Greywater: aka sullage. All wastewater generated in households or office buildings from streams without fecal contamination, i.e. all streams except for the wastewater from toilets.

Groundwater: Water held underground in the soil or in pores and crevices in rock. 

Hard Water: Natural water containing impurities in various proportions. Traditional hardness is a measure of calcium, minerals or dissolved solids in a solution, measured in parts per million. Hard water generally ranges from 100 to 250 ppm.

Hanger: A device used to support pipes.

Hose Bibb: Sillcock. An outdoor faucet, also used to supply washing machines.

IAPMO: Acronym for International Association of Plumbing & Mechanical Officials® 

ID: Stands for “inside diameter.” Measures the inside width of a pipe.

Impeller: A rotating wheel with vanes found inside a centrifugal pump. As it spins at high speed it draws fluids in and thrusts them under pressure to the discharge outlet.

Individual Vent: Individual vent permitted. Each trap and trapped fixture is permitted to be provided with an individual vent. The individual vent shall connect to the fixture drain of the trap or trapped fixture being vented.

Interceptor: A device for separating grease and oil from drainage systems.

IPC: Acronym for International Plumbing Code

IPS: An acrynym for Iron Pipe Straight thread. A shower valve denoted as IPS uses non-tapered straight-threaded fittings (see NPSM). 

IRC: Acronym for International Residential Code 

Jet Pump: A pump in which a small jet of steam, air, water, or other fluid in rapid motion lifts or otherwise moves by its impulse a large quantity of the fluid with which it mingles.

kPa: A metric unit for pressure. 100 kPa = one atmosphere.

Lavatory: Bathroom or washroom sink.

L Tubing: An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness and identified by a “blue” strip. Type “L” copper tube wall is approximately 50 percent greater thickness than type “M”.

Leach Lines: Pipes that carry effluent from the septic system out to the leach field, a porous soil area where treated waste is emptied.

Leader: An exterior drainage pipe for conveying storm water from roof or gutter drains to the building storm drain, combined building sewer, or other means of disposal. 

Low Consumption Toilet: A class of toilet designed to flush using 1.6 gallons of water or less. Also known as “water-saving” toilets.

M Tubing: An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness. Identified by a “red” stripe.

Maceration: the use of a machine that reduces solids to small pieces in order to deal with rags and other solid waste. Also, macerating toilets, which use a grinding or blending mechanism to reduce human waste to a slurry, which can then be moved by pumping.

Main: The primary artery of the supply or drain system to which all the branches connect. Referred to as the Main Vent in the vent system.

Manifold: A fitting that connects a number of branches to the main; serves as a distribution point.

MaP score: Maximum Performance score. Represents the number of grams of solid waste (soybean paste and toilet paper) that a particular toilet can flush and remove completely from the fixture in a single flush.

Mapp Gas: A colorless, flammable gas made by combining liquefied petroleum gas with Methylacetylene-Propadiene. It is a stable, non-toxic fuel used in brazing and soldering.

MCL: Maximum Contaminant Level – The maximum level of a contaminant allowed in water by federal law.

Metal Fatigue: A breakage of the metal caused by the bending and flexing or the expansion and contraction of a metal part beyond its endurance limit.

MIP: (aka MTP or Male Pipe Thread) Acronym for Male Iron Pipe (or Male International Pipe). It describes a pipe or fitting with threads on the exterior.

Nipple: A short piece of pipe installed between couplings or other fittings.

No-Hub Connector: A connector for no-hub iron pipe consisting of a rubber sleeve and a stainless steel band secured by hose clamps. A variation, a neoprene sleeve with two adjustable steel bands, is used for connecting dissimilar materials, as when connecting new plastic pipe to an existing cast-iron drainpipe.

Non-ferrous: Not containing iron.

NPS: Acronym for Normal Pipe Size.

NPSM: An acryonym for National Pipe Straight Mechanical. Indicates straight / non-tapered threads on pipes and fittings. NPT: An acronym for National Pipe Thread. Indicates tapered threads on pipes and fittings. NSPC: Acronym for National Standard Plumbing Code.

O-Ring: A rubber washer that is round instead of flat. Used in valve stems to create a watertight seal.

Oakum: Loosely woven hemp rope that has been treated with oil or other waterproofing agent; it is used to caulk joints in a bell and spigot pipe and fittings.

OD: Stands for “outside diameter.” Measures the outside width of a pipe.

Offset: The term used to describe a pipe that connects two parallel pipes. Some offsets in a drainage system may require an offset relief vent.

Overflow Hood: On a bath drain, the decorative hood concealing the overflow.

Overflow Tube: The vertical tube inside a toilet tank that directs water into the bowl in case the ballcock malfunctions and prevents potential water damage caused by a tank overflow. A constant running condition alerts the user to an overflow problem. On most toilets, the overflow tube also has a refill tube flowing into it, which directs water from the ballcock through the overflow tube to the bowl, after a siphon break.

P-Trap: A trap with a vertical inlet and a horizontal outlet. The bend and trap arm make the shape resemble the letter "P".

PB: Stands for polybutylene. A bendable plastic tubing most often used to supply water to bathroom fixtures.

PE: Stands for polyethylene. A flexible plastic supply line.

Percolation: Part of the water cycle that occurs after precipitation and before storage during which water filters down through aerated soil due to gravity. After percolation, water is stored in groundwater reservoirs until it reaches a point where sunlight warms it and the water evaporates.

Percolation Rate: Environmental Engineering Dictionary. The rate, usually expressed as a velocity, at which water moves through saturated granular material.

Perforated Pipe: Pipe designed to discharge water through small, multiple, closely spaced orifices or nozzles, places in a segment of its circumference for irrigation purposes.

PEX:Stands for cross-linked polyethylene. A flexible plastic supply line that is stronger than PE. In bathrooms, it is used for water supply lines.

Pickling: Immersing pipe into acid bath for removal of scale, oil, dirt, etc.

Piezo Switch: The electronic switch the bather uses to control the whirlpool and optional heater. This switch, based upon the piezo-electric effect, generates a voltage when pressure is applied to it.

Plumber’s Putty: A dough-like putty that seals joints between fixture surfaces and metal pieces, such as the drain.

Plumbing Snake: A thin, flexible length of spiral-wound metal, which is inserted into a drain and rotated to clear anything that is clogged in the pipes.

Plunger: A rubber, silicone, or plastic suction cup attached to a handle used to free drain clogs. Also known as a “plumber’s helper”.

Pneumatic: Pertains to devices using compressed air.

Pop-Up Drain: Remote control drain assembly. Also known as a “trip lever drain” for tubs.

Positive Air Pressure Attenuator (PAPA): Used in conjunction with AAVs. system developed to resolve the problems of positive pressures (transients / back-pressure) within the drainage systems of multi-story and high rise developments.

Potable: Water that is suitable for consumption.

Pressure Balance Valve: A shower valve that monitors fluctuations in pressure to maintain balance between hot and cold water so that temperature remains constant.

Pressure Head: Pressure in a plumbing system. The unit of measure which is the vertical force exerted by water at a depth of one foot.

Pressure Tank: A container designed to hold gases or liquids at a pressure substantially different from the ambient pressure. This is often used in conjunction with a water pump to control water pressure in a well system.

PVC: Stands for polyvinyl-chloride. A rigid white plastic pipe used for bathroom drain, waste and vent pipes.

Reducer: A fitting that allows pipes of different sizes to be joined together.

Relief Valve: A valve that opens to relieve excess temperature and/or pressure in the system.

Relief Vent:  Where the horizontal branch is located more than four branch intervals from the top of the stack, the horizontal branch shall be provided with a relief vent that shall connect to a vent stack or stack vent, or extend outdoors to the open air.

Return: A plumbing fitting with a 180-degree bend.

Re-Vent:  A re-vent or revent pipe in a plumbing drain-waste-vent or DWV system is an auxiliary vent that is attached to the drain pipe close to an individual plumbing fixture. The re-vent or revent pipe is routed upwards above the fixture and then horizontally over to a tee that attaches it to the main stack vent pipe. At the fixture the revent pipe can connect immediately behind the plumbing fixture or it may be connected close to the fixture along a horizontal drain line that serves that fixture.

Riser: A supply line pipe that rises from one story to the next; also the short vertical pipes that bring water from the branch to the fixture.

S-Trap: Trap design which routes drainage vertically down through the floor to connect with the drainage waste vent (DWV).

Saddle Tee: Fitting that taps into the side of a pipe, used to make quick connection to an existing line.

Saddle Valve: A valve mounted on a pipe run by a clamping device, or saddle tee to provide a water supply for a low-demand device.

Sanitary Tee: San-T. Sani-Tee. A tee used as a fitting for a soil pipe; designed with a slight curve in the 90° transition so as to channel flow from a branch line toward the direction of the main flow.

Scald Guard: A valve designed to prevent extreme water temperature changes through pressure balance technology. When there is a drop in hot or cold water pressure, the scald-guard valve shifts back and forth behind the shower handle to compensate for the sudden change. This valve maintains a constant water temperature to help give you and your family a safe and enjoyable bathing experience.

Scale: A thin coating or layer, usually calcium on the bottom of a tank or interior parts that may prevent heat transfer.

Schedule: Numbers assigned to different wall thicknesses of pipe (e.g. sch 40).

Sediment: The substance that settles on the bottom of a water tank. Also known as lime.

Septic D-Box: Septic Distribution Box. A container used to receive septic system effluent from a septic tank and to re-distribute the effluent into a network of attached drain-field or soakaway bed absorption trenches & pipes.

Septic Tank: A tank used to detain domestic wastes to allow the settling of solids prior to distribution. Septic tanks are used when a sewer line is not available to carry them to a treatment plant.

Service Partner Plan (SPP): The Horizon Services Service Partner Plan (SPP) is a great way to be sure that in case of an emergency, you are guaranteed the priority service you deserve as a valued customer. Benefits, include, priority service for plumbing, heating and air conditioning calls (routine or emergency), a 15% discount on all repairs, and no additional charge for overtime or emergency calls!

Sewerage System: A system comprising all piping, appurtenances, and treatment facilities used for the collection and disposal of sewage, except plumbing inside and in connection with buildings served and the building drain.

Shattaf (aka Diaper Sprayer): Handheld bidet sprayer mounted near a toilet and used to wash excrement from the body or soiled diapers.

Shower Arm: Shower trim component that delivers water to the showerhead. Usually 1/2" NPT. The shower arm connects showerhead and water supply line behind a finished wall of the shower enclosure.

Shutoff Valve: Valves installed under sinks and toilets used to shut off water supply in the event of a malfunction or repair. Also called an Angle Stop, Straight Stop or Supply Stop.

Siphoning: The suction or pulling effect that takes place in the trapway of a toilet as it is filled with outgoing water and waste.

Sleeve: A pipe which is passed through a wall for the purpose of inserting another pipe through it.

Slip Joint: A telescopic joint between two parts that permits the parts to move in a lengthwise direction. Often used for P-traps under lavatories and sinks. It allows a raw end of pipe to slide into the threaded end of a fitting and secures with a threaded ferrule such as a slip nut. Slip Nut: A ferrule with a threaded hole through it for screwing onto a pipe as a fastener. It is used in conjunction with a washer or gasket to form a slip joint.

SNAFU: Acronym for Situation Normal All F***ed Up

Soft Water: Water that has been treated so that it has low mineral content.

Solder: A metal alloy that is melted to create a fused joint between metal pieces. Also the act of melting solder into the joint.

Soil Pipe: A pipe that carries waste from toilets.

Stack Vent (vent stack): A vent pipe that extends from the top of a soil-or-waste stack and connects to vent header or terminates outside.

Standpipe: a vertical pipe extending from a water supply, especially one connecting a temporary tap to the main.

Storm Sewer: A sewer used for conveying rain water, surface water, condensate, cooling water, or similar liquid waste.

Street Ell: A 90° elbow joint with a hub on one end and male threads on the other. Used to make an angled connection between pipe or tubing and a fitting with a hub.

Stub-Out: Short lengths of pipe installed during rough-in to which fixtures and drains will eventually be installed.

Sump: A pit or pool for draining, collecting, or storing water. A chamber which provides water to the pump. A tank or pit that receives sewage or liquid waste, located below the normal grade of the gravity system and that must be emptied by mechanical means.

Sump Pump: An automatic water pump powered by an electric motor for the removal of drainage, except raw sewage, from a sump, pit or low point.

Sump Vent: A vent from pneumatic sewage ejectors, or similar equipment, that terminates separately to the open air.

Sweating: Another term for soldering a pipe or joint for the purpose of sealing a new joint or mending a fault.

Sweep: A pipe bend fitting used in drains to permit smooth passage of waste.

T&P Valve: Temperature and pressure valve. A valve that opens to release excess pressure and temperature in a system.

Tailpiece: The section of pipe that runs between a fixture outlet and the trap.

Tee: A plumbing fitting in the shape of the letter “T,” used to connect three sections of pipe.

Tee Fitting: A fitting that allows another pipe to be joined at a 90-degree angle.

Teflon Tape: White tape made of fluorocarbon polymer. It has non-stick properties and is wrapped around pipe threads in a joint to create a tight seal.

Trap: A curved section of drain that traps a small portion of water to prevent sewer gases from escaping into the bathroom. “P” traps and “S” traps are the types of traps most commonly found in bathrooms.

Trap Adapter: Features a hub and slip joint connection and provides a means for adapting a solvent weld connection to a slip joint connection.

Trap Arm: the pipe between the trap weir and the vent pipe.

Trap Weir: The point on a trap where water will begin to flow down the trap arm.

Trap Seal: The water in a trap or toilet that prevents sewer gases from escaping back through the drain.

Trip Lever: Flush handle and actuating arm on a toilet tank. Also the lever that opens and closes the drain on the bathtub waste and overflow.

Turbidity: Water cloudiness caused by suspended particles.

Union: A three piece fitting that joins two sections of pipe, but allows them to be disconnected without cutting the pipe.

Urinal: A plumbing fixture which receives only liquid body waste and conveys the waste through a trap seal into a gravity drainage system.

Vacuum Breaker: An anti-siphon device that prevents the back flow of contaminated water into the water supply system in the event of a negative pressure condition.

Valve: A device that regulates the flow of water.

Valve Seat: The immovable portion of a valve. Water flow is stopped when the movable portion of the valve comes in contact with the valve seat.

Vanity: Bathroom cabinet with a wash basin set in the top.

Vent: A vertical or sloping portion of drain pipe that allows sewer gasses to escape from the house into the outdoor air and lets air into the drain system to keep air pressure balanced and prevent water in traps from being siphoned off.

Water Filter: A device that removes impurities by lowering contamination of water using a fine physical barrier, a chemical process, or a biological process.

Water Hammer Arrestor: A device installed near a fixture to absorb the hydraulic shock that happens when a fixture’s supply is suddenly shut off, causing water hammer, a loud banging noise in the pipes.

Water Service Pipe: The pipe from the water main or other sources of potable water supply to the water-distributing system of the building served.

Water Softener: A device or substance that softens hard water by removing certain minerals.

Wax Ring: A seal located between floor flange and toilet to prevent leakage and fumes.

Weeping Tile: An underground pipe designed to convey ground water away from a structure. Also known as Subsoil drainage pipe.

Wet Vent: A pipe that both drains wastewater and vents air into the drains. Connects two or more fixtures. 

Wye Fitting: A drain fitting that allows one pipe to be joined to another at a 45-degree angle.

Yoke Vent: A pipe connecting upward from a soil or waste stack to a vent stack to prevent pressure changes in the stacks.

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4.8 Expansion wedge anchor bolt zinc plated

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