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communistconsumerist · 9 months ago

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Vampiric Vulvas: How Galliano's Margiela Beleaguers Womanhood Through the Body

Whether inanimate or alive—the vulva, once genital, has been fashioned into a grave. Stripped from all its hair and shorn to be skin, the sex has become its independent entity, akin to sterile textile. As if it were a memento mori of its wearer, it has been soldered to the cadaver and turned into a fetish.

Since its materialization, the bush has become a stationary object—a merkin, seducing scenes of cadaver-seeking flies with its scent and hiding the “true” sacred object with it. Nudity below the waist is fatal to factuality. Snipping and shaving the cooze of its organicity has made the chunk an unbroken whole again. For as soon as a shaving razor presses itself down a woman’s lap, her pubic area gains movement and meaning through the blade’s murdering of her body. It sinks its whetted teeth so far down the skin that its traces leave behind a thousand configurations of life.

Bareness is like lace, then—dead if it cannot suck the blood that bubbles through a woman’s lumps and bumps and grant them viability. The razor cannot defend the rights of the corpse if the body remains immaterial. It should always kill.

Then comes Galliano—erstwhile fired from Dior, now the creative director of Margiela—divinizing the dirt of womanhood, in all her flesh and musculature, in his Artisinal Collection for Paris’ week of haute couture. Known for its mania for the material, couture season calls for its darling, daring designers (the likes of Galliano and all) to tokenize the body more than they are allowed to during any other season. They are called to inaugurate voyages by accentuating abundance. Yet where his wasp’ed waists and wadded hips ravel in tulle, Galliano embroiders hair into cunts and cloth into curves—both ceramic. Pressing his models’ intestines together with corsetry that is sanctified to shape the bowel into an hourglass, Galliano makes nominal the dress—not the body. Through staging a Parisian nightlife consonant to Brassaï’s, the designer calls attention to the theatricality of life, where complete conformity and sterile subordination embrace enlivened femininity.

In this scene, fibers—munched by moths and draped over Galliano’s dolls—are wedged within carefully molded confines of busty bodices, clothed in nakedness, bare in their bedizen. Paris awakens to puppets here, stumbling over the catwalk with legs, slanted, as if controlled by a puppeteer. As the evening wears on, all cutlery for flesh, who are made cloth but not objects—or the porcelain-skinned ceramics that are swathed in muted colored lace and linen, and are bare beneath all curvilinear lines of embroidery and ruching—morph into girdles and draping less artificial. Orange, teal, and violet, in all their sheerness, work as second flesh for the Venus von Willendorfs that look out of place between all enamelware. Voile is fastened to their flesh, cascading off of their thighs like a stream of solvents, the solute—the lace corsets and linings of coutil—almost rejecting the musculature the other die-casted bodies marshal. Instead of a striptease, like Frolov’s heart-shaped cut-outs and even Robert Wun’s carmine mannequin—emerging from the model’s waist, holding the strap of her dress, and nearly revealing her breasts—Galliano dresses the female (gendered) body in all her fullness. It is not often that designers, or fashion fetishists, content themselves with entire women, often pining for what’s minced instead—whether tits or waist, clumps or curves. Yet within the realm of couture commodification and its consumption of indecorous cunts, Margiela celebrates womanhood as existing. Gone is the fetishized vampire.

It all comes down to material—the dead. As the likes of Sigmund Freud and Louise Kaplan argue: without a fetish to ease that way, the phallus finds itself refusing to enter the vagina that needs a substitute penis strapped onto it to satisfy the little boy that lives inside the phallus (one that has been inculcated by papa patriarchy). This oscillation between the animate and inanimate ultimately finds itself bearing fruit within the fashion industry, where Versace’s 2013 A/W peek-a-boo jumpers—with cut-away detailing—are dicks, deriving their strength from the orgastic affirmations of the model’s participation in wearing these phallic phantasies over her now-cadaver (the phallus substitute). Galliano’s color-washed, mummified bodies—faceless and smothered with scrappy netting, wearing merkins as if they were to be Renaissance sex workers—may look anything but alive. But they are desiccated to perform sex as defined “biologically”. It is the kind of depiction you find in books that medicine students pay for.

Flesh and bones. Hair.

Teeth and eye-sockets. Skull.

Modern medicine, however, is full of fiends—full of couplings between organism and material, conceived as coded devices but labeled to be “real”. Within its thin layers of powdery pages, the undead pretends to be alive, as if the fields of pathology, biology, and sexology were to be the fields of fashion. Margiela rehabilitates the “sex” from its sepulchre. Its tousles of moss hang from the bush, which has historically been deemed hideous.

Phallically unpleasant.

Unpretty.

History shifted the moment priests stopped kneeling at Christ’s feet and stopped kissing Him on His curio lips. The moment priests stopped adorning Mary Magdalenes with golden lac and stopped making her skull shimmery. The moment priests stopped vivifying women and stopped caring about their being. All she is now is deceased. The consumer object has become a staple now for spurious gratification—alienating the mammary gland from the organism, baring her skin from all her hair, and constructing a bodice out of her body. Fashion has always followed this in the same manner as doctors have—claiming names are normative and performances are real life. Galliano plays the performance up and stages femininity to be an act in the actual. In his show, the Brassaï-esque woman—one that needs to go out and step out of the house—materializes herself into china—with cracks of ceramic gathering themselves around her waist and singing it. Once the night is set and the party is over, all she is, is fiber and fabric. She bares herself to reveal her paleolithic sensuality—all her hair and all her musculature. The vagina as antagonizing the penis.

She reveals her sex—enlivened.

The merkin, made material to prevent lice in the 16th century and revelation in 20th century blockbusters, is not the point of attention in Margiela’s dress that covers the body (for once, not straight-size) in its entirety. It does not reveal itself as a pubic wig either, but blends into the fabric as its thatch. What has been made unsexy in the bedroom—a naked woman—has been made into a performance of biological sex.

What is being modeled is skin as it is. As it exists.

When daytime arrives, a gendered performance follows—one akin to the first. It is performing one, either in hiding (the blazer a censor bar of the body, parted into objects), or in delftware (the woman turned object, joint after joint, a phallic phantasy). It is clear that Galliano stages the fashion show within his fashion show. The vulva is a grave, and the model is a vampire. We are once again at the cemetery, burying the vagina. Maybe the disease Galliano’s merkin intends to prevent within the night scene, then, is one of gendered dominion. One of conformity within a collective space, theatricalized.

Where normativity slips within consumer culture, the cunt—once crucified and made into a cross—lets out a breath.

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Works referenced:

Kaplan, L. J. (1990). Female Perversions: The Temptations of Emma Bovary. https://ci.nii.ac.jp/ncid/BA21304991

Rose, L. A. (1988). Freud and Fetishism: Previously Unpublished Minutes of the Vienna Psychoanalytic Society. Psychoanalytic Quarterly, 57(2), 147–166. https://doi.org/10.1080/21674086.1988.11927209

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Related readings:

Hanssen, B. (2006). Walter Benjamin and the Arcades Project. https://doi.org/10.5040/9781472547842

Illouz, E. (2021). The End of Love: A Sociology of Negative Relations. John Wiley & Sons.

Miklitsch, R. (1996). The Commodity-Body-Sign: Toward a General Economy of “Commodity Fetishism”. Cultural Critique, 33, 5. https://doi.org/10.2307/1354386

Steele, V. (1996). Fetish: Fashion, Sex, and Power. http://ci.nii.ac.jp/ncid/BA2664017X

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#womenswear #fashion week #menswear #margiela #margiela artisinal collection #john galliano #Evaluating The Arts #review #feminism and fashion what a wonderful match #sxfashionfeminism #Vampiric Vlvas

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englishchinesetranslations · 5 years ago

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When the Jews took over Russia with Communism, they killed the entire Gentile ruling and upper classes, and replaced them with a Jewish ruling elite which was part of a larger Jewish order.

“Rosenthal also talks about a Jewish invisible government which also controls the USSR, and how the UN is “nothing but a trap door to the Red World’s immense concentration camp.” He says this invisible power is responsible for the wars and revolutions of the last 200 years.” — Harold Wallace Rosenthal, age 29, personal assistant to New York Senator Jacob Javits 1976 interview with Walter White Jr., editor, Conservative monthly, Western Front.

When the Soviet Jewion fell apart due to the long -term effects of the Second World War and the people openly rebelling in the streets, the Jewish elites in Russia simply put up new window dressing and did a game of musical chairs, in order to stop a full rebellion that would topple them. The new post-Soviet government was just as openly full of Jews as was the former one. It is the same ruling class.

This brings us to Vladimir Putin who was a Lieutenant Colonel in the KGB before the fall of the Soviet Union. He was then brought into the New Government. This is revealing the facts on the KGB, like the NKVD and Cheka before it. It is created, staffed, and run by Jews, as it is the important arm of the Jewish ruling classes’ control:

http://heretical.com/miscellx/bolshies.html

According to a report in The Canadian Jewish News of 13 November 1964, the present Soviet boss Leonid Brezhnev is married to a Jewess and his children are brought up as Jews. There are a number of prominent Jews in the Soviet government, including Dimitri Dymshits in charge of industry, Lev Shapiro regional secretary of Birobidjan, and Yuri Andropov in charge of the secret police, the KGB. In fact, every secret police chief in Soviet history has been a Jew, from the first, Uritsky, the murderous Beria… A Jew is also in charge of the Soviet economy – Leonid Kantorovich.

Keep this in mind when you realize that Putin within 16 years, rose to Lieutenant Colonel of the KGB, proceeded to be high -ranking in a Jewish owned and staffed government, and is now the front man for the ruling kosher cabal:

Putin admitted to growing up in the same apartment with a bunch of Jews. When speaking before a Jewish audience, Putin revealed that his own father was an “avid Talmudic scholar.”

“Mr. Putin said he was familiar with both the menorah and the Chanukah holiday, because as a child his family shared their communal apartment with a Jewish family. “

Source: Chabad.org – Jewish News – Chanukah Journal Nov 26, 1999 http://www.chabad.org/news/article_cdo/aid/1119/jewish/Chanukah-Journal.htm

Putin: “I will do everything for the Jews!” Posted October 18, 2012. “Putin will save us” says Jew Kapner! By “us,” he means Jews.

“RUSSIA’S PM TO JEWISH DELEGATION: I WAS FIRST TO RESTORE JEWISH PROPERTY!

MOSCOW — In an extraordinary 40 minute meeting with Russian Jewish leaders yesterday (November 25), Russian Prime Minister Vladimir V. Putin promised to assist the Jewish community in combating anti-Semitism, building schools and reclaiming former synagogue buildings for Jewish communities.”

“Rabbi Berel Lazar, chief Lubavitch emissary to the region, who was recently elected as the head rabbi by delegates to the newly formed Federation of Jewish Communities of Russia, accompanied Federation officials Lev Leviev, Michael Gluz and Mark Grubarg to present the prime minister with a silver Menorah. Rabbi Lazar described the Menorah as a symbol of religious freedom. Speaking about the miracle of Chanukah, the rabbi and his colleagues described the resurgence of Jewish life in Russia since the fall of communism as a modern miracle.”

Jew-lover Putin admits growing up in the same apartment with a bunch of Jews. While talking to a Jewish audience, Putin reveals that his own father was an avid Talmudic scholar…“Mr. Putin said he was familiar with both the menorah and the Chanukah holiday, because as a child his family shared their communal apartment with a Jewish family.” Putin’s father’s real name was Epstein, his mother’s Shalomova.

http://henrymakow.com/putin-is-nwo-pawn.html

Tamara: “The photo at bottom left shows Opposition to Putin saying Putin is 100% a Jew (his mother is a Jew and his father is a Jew). In Russia, many Jewish people hide their Jewish origin or they do not know or do not want to know. Putin is a person who hides his Jewish origin but uses it in the corruption nets. Historians tried to find his ancestors but failed. Common Russians think that Putin is an ethnic Russian. If they understood that Putin is a Jew, they would not vote for him. The picture bottom right shows Putin’s resemblance to a Jew from Tsarist era.”

“In Russia, the eternal question is: “Who Lives Well in Russia?” At different times, they were different people, but now everyone knows that life is only good for the super-rich oligarchs, mostly Jews.”

Putin pledges to make Russia comfortable for the enemy Jew. Perhaps that will shed light on why he treats nationalists and proud Russian patriots like Jews treat animals.

“Focusing on the Federation, Mr. Putin described its founding as a positive development to bring diverse groups within the Jewish community together to work toward common goals. He expressed his hope that the new Federation would help foster a climate of communal strength that will make Russia a country where Jews will live comfortably.”

The following was written by a Christian Russian Nationalist, but it provides a clear understanding of what is really happening in the Jewish owned and controlled current Russia:

“Their goal is to create in place of Russia and Russian civilization a new supranational pseudo- empire within the framework of the New World Order, under the guidance of a Jewish elite.”

Russians in Russia: The State within the State April 24, 2012 —

Igor Artemov, Translated by Roman Frolov

No one in the Russian National political movement —or just anyone for whom his Russian identity is not simply a matter of fact but a defining aspect of his life, beliefs, and actions—should harbor any illusions regarding the corrupt, grotesquely hypocritical, bureaucratic and police-state nature of the modern state authority and ideology existing in the Russian Federation. All this is true and doubtlessly affects our lives. And yet the single most important thing to understand is that this system is explicitly and purposefully anti-Russian.

Although we cannot exclude that Putin and his close circle dream about their ‘empire’, there won’t be any place in their ‘empire’ for the Russian spirit and Russian ideology, just as there was no place for Russianness in the late Soviet Union. Remember that the process of destroying the Russian nation and Russian worldview, unprecedented in its scale and consequences, was launched precisely in the Soviet Union and the current authorities of Russian Federation carry on this process more or less consistently. The Russian culture and the Church were being destroyed in the USSR. Internationalism and inter-racial marriages were promoted. The USSR has done everything possible to make people to identify themselves not as Russians, Tartars, or Tuvans but as Soviet people. All the facts show that it is the USSR and not the old Russia that serves as a role model for the current Russian authorities. They are building a post-Soviet state and not in any way a Russian national state. I consider this statement essential because of the conclusions and actions that follow from it directly.

If the Russian Federation was just a red-tape bureaucratic or corrupt state, then these defects of the political system could be fought against and to a certain extent eliminated simply by dealing with the mistakes. Yet the problem is that both corruption and despotism in our country are consciously enforced from the very top of state power. Long ago I realized that the situation in our country does not result from the stupidity, greed or incompetence of the ruling circles. Only an idiot would have trouble understanding that it is better for the country to have its own competitive manufacturing instead of exporting raw materials or to have honest officials instead of bribe- takers. The Russian authorities understand this too. And yet they do everything the other way around, strengthening and hardening from above all the vices of the state system. “Why?” you ask me. Well, because they have aims that are very different from those they publicly declare on television and through the mass media.

Their goal is to create in place of Russia and Russian civilization a new supranational pseudo- empire within the framework of the New World Order. Under the guidance of a Jewish elite, the Russian majority will be gradually replaced by Asian migrants. Of course, they cannot acknowledge this openly as it will cause mass protests and they will be quickly swept away. So for the people’s consumption they have an official ideology of building a society of prosperity, social justice and interethnic peace. Yet they cannot hide the truth, especially from those who have access to objective information. As a result, the silence of the ruling circles is bought by enormous material benefits on one hand, and by intimidation on the other. In this light, it is easy to understand the murders of generals Lebed and Rokhlin, ophthalmologist Fyodorov, Governor Evdokimov and many others who had ascended to the political Olympus in Russia but had not become completely loyal to those forces that control and deliberately destroy our country as the heart of Russian civilization. I think that the mysterious death of General Shebarshin, the last chief of the KGB, is in the same line of political murders.

The main supports for the Russian authorities in this enterprise are the security agencies. Their purpose is to suppress any popular protest and discontent by unlawful use of force — simply because it is impossible to do it by lawful methods. It is not a coincidence that today the members of the security agencies and not regular officials or manufacturers who get the most of benefits and opportunities. Not long ago I had a conversation with an old acquaintance of mine who sells real estate on the Black sea coast and in the Caucasus Mineralnye Vody region [translator’s note: popular resorts]. He claimed that 80%.

of the expensive property [$500,000 and up] in these areas is purchased today not by state officials or businessmen but by highly-placed officials of the Federal Security Service [FSS], Interior Ministry, Public Prosecutor Office, and other similar agencies from various regions of the country [sometimes such purchases are made using front persons]. In this way these ‘people’s servants’ prepare for their retirement. Needless to say, such property acquisitions are far beyond the means of an honest official, even considering their large salaries.

Thus a conspiracy of silence emerges. Every member of this criminal system knows that he can keep his power and unlawfully acquired riches only if he remains silent and does everything his masters order him to do. If he doesn’t, however, and takes the liberty of excessive high-handedness or independency, he will face huge problems.

I would like to describe two examples from my personal experience, which clearly show that highly stationed Russian officials have a perfect understanding of what is going on in our country and of the direction it is leading into. In the beginning of the last decade when I was a Deputy of the Legislative Assembly of Vladimir Oblast I had a conversation with one of the representatives of the President in that region. The conversation has stuck in my memory. There was high turnover at this position and I would like to avoid naming this person. The official sympathetically inquired about the Russian national movement and our ideology, and he demonstrated impressive knowledge of Bolshevism, Freemasonry and pretty good personal erudition. He told me that he reads our newspapers [the Internet was not as widespread then as it is now], and that some of his relatives voted for me in the elections to the Russian Parliament. I even felt some sympathy toward him because of his education and culture. In the end he talked about himself. He said that he understands the rightness of our cause albeit there were not only Russians among his ancestors. He told me that in Soviet times he and other members of the Communist Party were shown special movies on the danger of world Zionism and Freemasonry, and he mentioned some facts which I was not aware of. At some point, I even thought that he could provide a tacit support to our cause.

Yet it ended differently. My confidant finished our conversation with a parable. Let’s say, he told me, a gang of robbers attacks a woman and wants to rape her. She has a choice, to resist, get seriously beaten and injured and be raped anyway, or “to relax and try to get some pleasure”…. So this is what is being done with our country. We can’t fight against the whole world. So let’s relax and try to benefit from this situation as much as possible. I remember being quite shocked, both at his level of awareness and his conclusions.

As a second example, in 2003 I was one of the originators of the internal investigation of the Police Department of Vladimir Oblast by a special commission from Moscow. The commission was headed by an elderly Lieutenant-General Golubev, if I remember correctly. He expressed his wish to meet me personally. It was a long conversation. I told him all I knew about incidents of bribery, racketeering etc. He listened carefully and took notes. At the end, we had turned to the Russian question again. Looking away, he asked me: “If things in Russia continue in the future as they are today, for how much longer will the Russian people survive?” I answered that I look forward to positive changes and aspire for the establishment of Russian national rule, but if the regime perseveres, the Russians as a nation will likely hold on for thirty or forty years more, and after that all sorts of irreversible changes are possible. “I also think so” — he replied.

We had parted amiably. A couple of weeks later I received a letter signed by this same General, in which he thanked me for my assistance and informed me that, based on my information, around fifteen police officers were subjected to disciplinary action, but not a single ‘brave’ officer was punished seriously, though they deserved it. The commission had returned to Moscow and things in Vladimir resumed their ‘natural’ course. I guess that our General retired soon after these events.

Make no mistake: both of the high state officials described here represent the best part of the establishment. They at least say that they are not against us. Others, however, are much, much worse: they are stupid, avaricious and cynical. Yet even these two wouldn’t openly side with us. They would stand aside and wait for something. This is why the Russian movement today should avoid internal dissent and squabble between parties. The regime hates us all, no matter who we are — backers of the empire or national democrats or Russian Orthodox nationalists or whoever else — it hates us just because we are Russian, because we don’t hide it and because we fight as best we can for our rights and ideals.

We interfere with their desire to destroy Russia quickly and quietly. It is time now to begin building a “state within a state” in our midst, a society closed to outsiders where we can resolve all internal questions within it. We have no friends among the authorities, but we have many friends and like -minded people among businessmen, scientists and military men, among virtually all strata of Russian society. I will return to this topic in subsequent articles.

Igor Artemov is a well-known Russian Nationalist. His organization, Russian All – National Union [RONS] was proscribed last year and Artemov himself is on the run, as he is wanted by Federal Security Service for the ‘hate crime’ of writing

______________________________________________________________

Note – the Jews pretend they were victims of the very system they instituted and controlled:

At Putin’s side, an army of Jewish billionaires. “We have to keep our Jewishness and be united in the Diaspora,” says Russian Jewish Congress VP. ”

http://www.jpost.com/Jewish-World/Jewish-Features/At-Putins-side-an-army-of-Jewish-billionaires

When the air-conditioning broke down at the reception for the unveiling ceremony of the Red Army monument in Netanya on Monday, it didn’t matter if you were a billionaire, multimillionaire or broke. Everyone suffered the same.

In one corner sat Mikhail Fridman, the seventh-richest man in Russia, whose fortune is estimated at $15 billion by Forbes. He stayed hydrated in the sweltering heat by sipping a glass of water. In another stood Moshe Kantor, the chemicals tycoon who Forbes said was worth $2.3b. He repeatedly removed the beads of sweat from his head with a napkin.

The two men were part of a group of two dozen or so affluent Russian-speaking businessmen who came to the ceremony where President Vladimir Putin was the guest of honor. Some, like Fridman, flew in especially from Russia. Others, like Kantor, drove from nearby Herzliya, where many businessman from the former Soviet Union including Leonid Nevzlin and Gabriel Mirilashvili, to name a few, have made their homes.

For many members of this class of ultra rich Putin’s arrival in the country was an opportunity for them to brush shoulders with one another and to mingle with friends and officials from the motherland. The richest man in the room filled with rich men was probably the media-shy Fridman, who declined to speak to The Jerusalem Post. “I am a private person,” he said, displaying seemingly good English.

Other faces were more familiar to locals. Lev Leviev, the diamonds and real estate mogul who is a bit of anomaly in this world, was on hand. Although born in Uzbekistan, then part of the Soviet Union, he immigrated to Israel as a teenager in the 1970s and made his money in the Jewish state. Only after the markets in the former Soviet Union opened did the Israeli, whose worth was estimated at about $1.7b. earlier this year, invest extensively in natural resources and property in that part of the world.

Not everybody in the room was a billionaire. Some were worth a mere couple of hundred of million dollars Alexander Levin, a Ukrainian businessman who was among those who donated to build the monument, is one of latter.

The real estate developer, who last year set up the World Forum for Russian Jewry, an advocacy group based in New York, explained why he it was an important cause.

“My two grandparents were killed during World War II so it’s very important to us,” he said. “We are paying just a little [in comparison to what they paid].”

How much is a little? Levin said the exact sum “was not important” but that it was “a lot of money.”

Members of United Israel Appeal-Keren Hayesod, which raised the money to build the marble and concrete monument overlooking the azure Mediterranean Sea, were also tight-lipped.

“We organized a group of 10 to 15 top businessmen who raised the money that helped transform this dream to reality,” said Gadi Dror, the UIA’s director of the eastern region. “We do not go [into the] figures because they [the donors] prefer not to but it is meaningful amount.”

A source later said each businessman had donated at least $100,000. Watching the group of mega-wealthy interact, one cannot help but wonder how so many affluent businessmen in the former Soviet Union are Jewish.

German Zakharyaev, vice president of the Russian Jewish Congress, cited two main reasons for that. First, Jews are few among many.

“We are a minority and as such we have to be strong [if we are] to preserve our customs,” said the businessman who, as a member of the Mountain Jewish community of the eastern Caucuses, is a minority within a minority.

“This is something in our commandments that we have to keep our Jewishness and be united in the Diaspora.” Second, he said, Jewish businessmen are hard workers. “We think a lot and we sleep a little,” he said.

China situation:

Russia, China Hold Large-Scale War Games

-High Priest Mageson666

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