#florida fern moth

[onenicebugperday]

ok for some reason tumblr is not letting me submit a bug the normal way so here it is in ask form

found this little guy near Miami, FL just chilling on a wall and ive been wondering ever since what kind of moth this is. the legs and antennae made such a weird shape that it looked like a sticky hand from far away lol

Sticky hand lol. This lil friend is a Florida fern moth!

[artsysister]

My newest watercolor paintings and the reference photos.

Army Cutworm Moth and Gulf Fritillary Butterfly Watercolor Painting By Teresita Blanco (artsysister.com)

[qettleqorn]

top five bugs!

pillowfort hangout friday

Oh!!! Oh god I'm not as big as a insect nerd as Kin or Shibi! But I do have a few that pop to mind! But I'll add images and shall place this under a read more for those who don't like bugs!

Picasso Beetle / Sphaerocoris annulus It was recommended to me YEARS ago and to be honest I still love it! It's so pretty and cute. It has some of my favorite hues too so by default it is a main fave.

2. Spider Moth / Lygodium Spider Moth This one shouldn't be too much of a surprised as I base Kin's nickname as it! There still isn't much info on it- or at least that I've found. It does love to eat Florida's ferns though!

3. Ghost Mantis / Phyllocrania paradoxa Tbh I think this dude looks like burnt bacon but they're so calm and docile. Baby babies~

4. Iridescent Bark Mantis / Metallyticus splendidus It is shiny and oh so pretty and that's all i care about.

5. Subterranean termites / Rhinotermitidae Listen, they look gross and I love them. Also they're wood-soil colonies and they can and will destroy your home.

They're all so cute and gross and beautiful and lovely and baby girls.

[carrythetorchtoinferno]

my parents have lived in the same house for 15 years. my dad is a fastidious lawn-keeper and lover of yardio - he can always be found trimming trees, clearing deadfall, digging out invasive ferns, and all sorts of other activities made heinous by the florida heat, that he does regardless because he enjoys it and because it needs to be done.

their house runs on well-water. it handles sewage with a septic tank system. the drainfield extends a good 20 feet into the backyard. the grass there, fertilized by waste-water, is always taller and stronger than anywhere else in the yard. the three-foot-tall hump of earth over top makes it difficult to mow, and my dad doesn't trust the riding mower's weight over the drainfield anyway. he used to attack it with the weed-whacker instead a sisyphean task, undertaken every weekend by a stubborn new-england hispanic david against mother nature's implacable goliath.

at the beginning of the year, I moved to a new state. right around the same time, he started talking about just letting it go.

my father is a researcher by nature. no purchase enters this house without a three-month lead of brand comparison, review consultation, and investigation to find the best quality for price. he had already done extensive study on native, pollinator-friendly plants to replace the smelly ornamental hedges hemming in the outer walls. every week he takes pictures of the wild bugs and reptiles and backyard birds that come to visit. he wanted more of them. so, after measured and in-depth research, he stopped mowing the drain field and let the grass run wild.

I left the state in march. it is now september, and the first thing I noticed was the butterflies.

there's a lush chorus of insect song I've never heard before. small ground-covering flowers that have never peeped their head above the grass before now stand tall atop the drainfield. I've been gone for six months, and in the first ten minutes of seeing the yard again, I saw ants, grasshoppers, mayflies, bees and wasps, and all sorts of life in quantities that made my head spin.

including skippers. and swallowtails. and oakworm moths.

the nearest I can figure is this. the trees that support most of these caterpillars are well-established in our yard already already, and have been for years. but the increase in plant diversity must have led to the increase in bug diversity, which must have meant pickings weren't so slim any more for the local birds and lizards. there must be easier things to chase now, and more of them. which means that for the first time in fifteen years, there are oak moths shading themselves on the sides of our house without fear of predation.

I've never even seen one in person before.

maybe fixing the world isn't as easy as letting one 20-foot stretch of lawn grass go wild. but damned if it didn't help just a little.

[discovermoths]

Male Florida fern moth

[bugsxhugs]

i believe these are Callopistria floridensis caterpillars! 🌱💚 saved them from a horses feed bucket ahaha

[blackswallowtailbutterfly]

I just...want to work in the garden and do nothing else. Stop only to eat and pee. I go in when the daylight’s done. And then all I want to do is look at more plants I can order and talk about my garden. All my plants are native to Ontario or nearby. All with edible parts except one. So. Plant species I have/am getting this year are:

001. Achillea millefolium (common yarrow) The red-flowered cultivar seems to have died over the winter, but the non-cultivar is growing strong and is also creeping past the stone border to become one with the grass. lol

002. Actaea racemosa (black snakeroot/black cohosh) Next weekend!

003. Agastache foeniculum (anise hyssop) Literally migrated from the place I planted it to a place it likes better, I guess. As in, there is no plant where I planted, but there is an anise hyssop in another part of that bed. You do you.

004. Allium canadense (meadow garlic/Canada garlic) Spreading slowly but reliably and super tasty.

005. Allium cernuum (nodding onion) It has flowered each year--this is year 4--but hasn’t spread at all. Very tasty, and I’ve bought some friends to help it along.

006. Allium schoenoprasum (chives/wild chives) Absolutely yum and doing very well.

007. Allium stellatum (prairie onion/autumn onion) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

008. Allium tricoccum (ramps/wild leek) It will be quite some time before it even makes flowers which hopefully let it spread, so I won’t be able to reap the benefits for a while. But, both plants did come up this year and have now died back as expected. Hopefully they’ll continue to come up.

009. Amelanchier canadensis (Canadian serviceberry) Caterpillars. Are. EATING IT. Gypsy moth caterpillars. This is going to be a problem for some time until they pupate, I guess. Plant’s generally okay, though. I won’t be getting fruit anytime soon, though.

010. Anaphalis margaritacea (pearly everlasting) Very healthy plants keeping the sunflowers under some control. This spring was my first year eating the shoots. Can’t say anything about the taste specifically, as they went into a pasta sauce, but that sauce was delicious.

011. Andromeda polifolia (bog rosemary) Next weekend!

012. Aquilegia brevistyla (smallflower columbine) Growing very well, more flowers this year. Next year I’ll eat some (flowers, only the flowers are edible).

013. Aquilegia canadensis (Canada columbine/red columbine) Flower stalk doesn’t seem as tall this year, but it still has a lot of flowers. They’re a lovely refreshing sweet snack (just the flowers).

014. Arabis alpina (alpine rockcress) Next weekend! I had one last year, but it didn’t survive the winter. The poor thing was so root-bound there was no soil in the pot, so I’m not surprised it didn’t make it. Hopefully the new one will be in better condition.

015. Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (bearberry/kinnikinnick/pinemat manzanita) Not doing great and I’m not sure why. That area is reasonably well-drained and it gets part sun, part shade. Oh well. Maybe I’ll move it to the hill in the back. It seemed to like the hill I had it on at my old apartment.

016. Argentina anserina (silverweed cinquefoil) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

017. Arisaema triphyllum (jack-in-the-pulpit) It came up! I was sure it had died last year. But no, it’s fine. Male this year. Hopefully female next year (I’m trying to see if the berries can be dried into edibility like the corms, and if they can I want to make jam or something with them).

018. Armeria maritima (thrift sea-pink) Drooping! It’s a drought-tolerant plant that will die if over-watered so I don’t water it more than once a week and I don’t water deeply, but it’s been hot so maybe it needs more or maybe I managed to overwater it anyway. Frick. Flowering very nicely though.

019. Aronia melanocarpa (black chokeberry) Doing just fine. No flowers and I don’t expect them for another couple of years at least, but it’s growing well.

020. Artemisia frigida (prairie sagewort/fringed sagebrush) Already spreading in the bed. Should look very nice when it fills in.

021. Aruncus dioicus (bride’s feathers/goat’s beard/buck’s beard) Growing more quickly than the internet told me it would! And going to flower this year too, which will be lovely.

022. Asarum canadense (Canada ginger) Doing fine for now, but burnt a lot in the sun last year. Likely to do so again. I’m going to plant something in front of it to shade it better. See, I wouldn’t have put it there if it was full sun because it’s a shade to part sun plant, but that area isn’t full-sun, it’s part sun; however, the sunlight it does get is very strong in the summer and the poor thing gets burnt.

023. Asclepias incarnata (swamp milkweed) Growing like a beast! Flowers were gorgeous last year. I don’t expect this to be any different, and maybe some monarch butterflies will pay it a visit.

024. Asclepias ovalifolia (oval leaf milkweed/dwarf milkweed) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

025. Asclepias syriaca (common milkweed) Mine seemed to come up much more slowly than those I’ve seen elsewhere, but it is a fairly young plant. I expect it will come up earlier next year. And it’s doing fine now.

026. Asclepias tuberosa (butterflyweed) Hasn’t come up yet, but they can take till middle of June to start emerging, so I’m not going to worry about it yet.

027. Asimina triloba (pawpaw) All three trees are alive, though with very different rates of growth. I got them at the same size at the same time, but in trying to figure out what the best thing was for them, I planted one on a hill next to the door of my at-the-time apartment, one by the fence at the opposite side of the yard, and the third I kept in a pot, which I brought in for the winter. That spring, the potted tree leafed out first at the end of April, and the one on the hill in the middle of May. The third didn’t bud at all. I continued to water it, but I was sure it was dead. Then the house my apartment was in caught fire so I had to go to a new place (same landlords, so still allowed to plant on the new property) and didn’t want to leave my plants behind. It was the end of June. All my plants were potted. and I was going to leave the lifeless stick behind AND THEN IT SUDDENLY HAD BUDS. So I potted it and took it too. All three survived the transplant, but the tree I had initially taken inside (but is now outside) is the biggest, and that little stick is still the smallest. lol

028. Asplenium trichomanes (maidenhair spleenwort) Very little still, but seems healthy. I hope for its fronds to spill over my newly constructed garden wall when it’s bigger.

029. Athyrium felix-femina (lady fern) Doing very well, as a fern that can tolerate full sun.

030. Caltha palustris (marsh marigold) It is a marsh plant and there is no pond on the property to plant it, but there is a leaking eavestrough, which I thought would do well enough along with heavy watering. So far I have been correct.

031. Campanula rotundifolia (harebell) Very lush and green. I struggled to keep it alive that first year, but three years later it’s perfect.

032. Cardamine concatenata (cutleaf toothwort) Sometime this summer!

033. Castilleja miniata (paintbrush) Sometime this summer!

034. Ceanothus americanus (New Jersey tea) Not ready to use in tisanes yet, but growing well.

035. Cerastium arvense (field chickweed) The first two years the thing was barely alive, but this year’s it’s moment to shine as it spreads and flowers.

036. Cercis canadensis (redbud) No flowers this spring, but wonderful foliage. Fingers crossed for next year.

037. Comptonia peregrina (sweetfern) Next weekend!

038. Coreopsis lanceolata (lance-leaved tickseed) The first plant I attempted died, but this one’s doing very well.

039. Cornus canadensis (bunchberry) Next weekend! I mean, my plant from last year would likely be fine if the squirrels hadn’t dug it up, as would the one before that (because that one came from the old place and had survived the winter just fine!). So, I’m going to plant the new one in a different spot and hope the fluffy-tailed rodents leave the poor thing alone this time.

040. Cornus florida (flowering dogwood) Just a baby still, but its leaves are nice and green. I had one before it that really liked the hill I had planted it on back at the old place but died in the pot before I could put it in its new home.

041. Cystopteris bulbifera (berry bladder fern) Doing just fine. I love my ferns.

042. Dalea purpurea (purple prairie clover) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

043. Deschampsia caespitosa (tufted hair grass) Not doing too well. Was fine last year, so I’m not sure what’s going on.

044. Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflower) I’ve always loved these. They’re edible, medicinal (with caution), have lovely flowers, and attract lots of pollinators including bees and butterflies. Mine is doing perfectly. No flowers yet this year, but very green healthy foliage.

046 Erythronium americanum (trout lily/dogtooth violet) Still no flowers this spring, but they did come up, so maybe next year.

047. Eupatorium purpureum (sweet-scented Joe Pye weed/gravel root/purple Joe Pye weed) Soon! Also, do you know how this is eaten? Its root is literally burnt and then you use the ashes to flavour your food. The plant is otherwise poisonous, so how it was found out that it could be used this way conjures up amusing scenarios for me.

048. Fragaria vesca (woodland strawberry/wild strawberry/alpine strawberry) I have strawberries! They’re far from ripe yet, but developing well. They’re also spreading over the hill I planted them on and will hopefully give the garlic mustard and dog-strangling vine a run for their money.

049. Fragaria virginiana (wild strawberry/Virginia strawberry/common strawberry/mountain strawberry) Because one native species of strawberry isn’t enough, I have both. This one is also making strawberries and nicely filling out the area I put it in.

050. Galium boreale (northern bedstraw) Newly planted! The first one of these I planted didn’t survive the winter, but I hadn’t been able to plant it until autumn (because I hadn’t yet been told where I could plant). This one has the rest of spring, the whole summer, and fall until frost to establish itself, and I’ve seen a number of them growing wild at the edge of the ravines, so it should be fine.

051. Gaultheria procumbens (American wintergreen/eastern teaberry/boxberry/checkerberry) Next weekend! I actually already have one and have had it for a couple years, but it’s another that came so root-bound there wasn’t any soil in the pot. I planted it hoping for the best, but it seems to be in a very slow decline. So I’m going to plant another one, hopefully not so root-bound and that will maybe either give it a boost (plants of the same species will often help each other when sick by transferring nutrients) or else take over when the first one dies.

052. Geum aleppicum (yellow avens) I didn’t plant this, and I can’t find it for sale anywhere anyway, but it’s a common plant that shows up as a weed. Being native as well as edible, it’s allowed to stay wherever it isn’t directly in my way.

053. Geum canadense (white avens) Same as above. lol Anyway, both species have attractive foliage. They’re likely not used as garden plants because of how common they are as weeds and because their flower stalks are long and leggy. But I’m happy to have them.

054. Geum rivale (purple avens) Newly planted! This one is offered as a garden plant, though fairly rare, and I’ve finally got my hands on one! All of the Geum species in my garden seem to be doing just fine, so I expect this will fine too. It’s the first plant I’ve put in a new area that doesn’t drain very well which makes it perfect for plants like this one that grow in clay on stream banks.

055. Geum triflorum (prairie smoke) Green leaves. Flower stalks up. This is a pretty reliable plant because it doesn’t die back in the winter, it just sort of sits there waiting for spring and then resumes growth like nothing happened. The first year it drooped a lot but once it established itself there was no stopping it and the transplant went smoothly too.

056. Grindelia squarrosa (gumweed) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

057. Helianthus divaricatus (woodland sunflower) This is a sunflower that can actually stand a fair bit of shade. I thought mine had died last year due to the foliage and stemming dying back after a squirrel broke it and it and it was still summer. But it’s come up this year and I’m starting to think nothing short of cooking a sunflower’s roots will actually kill it.

058 and 059. Helianthus nuttalli (Nuttall’s sunflower/common tall sunflower) and Helianthus pauciflorus (stiff sunflower/beautiful sunflower) All I know is, I ordered both, I received two small plants, by the time I got them in the ground they were barely alive, that area is now being overtaken by sunflowers, and it could be one species, or it could be both, I don’t know. I did thin out some shoots this spring and add them to a very flavourful pasta sauce. I also thinned out a bunch of their roots last fall. To look at them, you wouldn’t know that either of these had happened, and I’m going to have to thin out more. They’re also putting up shoots between the stones of the cement path. There will be sunflowers here until the end of time.

060. Helianthus tuberosus (sunchoke/Jerusalem artichoke/suntato) Because I don’t learn, I planted yet another sunflower species last year, in a different area, because dammit I want my suntatoes that taste like artichokes. I planted one last year. I took and ate a bunch of tubers in the fall. There are currently five plants. This should be interesting.

061. Heliopsis helianthoides (false sunflower/sweet oxeye) After getting off to a rocky start last year, this one’s doing just fine, and also looks to be living up to its resemblance to sunflowers in more than just appearance.

062. Hibiscus moscheutos (swamp rose mallow) One of them appears to have died so I hope the other isn’t headed the same direction. Seems to be coming up normally though. Also I learned the flowers can change colour from year to year which was a huge surprise to me from the first year to the second. No idea what it will be like this year.

063. Hierochloe odorata (sweet grass/vanilla grass) It flowered last year, which was lovely. I hope it does so again this year. Foliage is nice and green anyhow.

064. Humulus lupulus (common hop) Growing nicely now, though its first several shoots died this year. It seems to just be a very impatient plant in the springtime despite not being very frost hardy. So it put out shoots, which died in the frost, and then put out more, which also died, etc. until finally there was no more frost so it just kept growing. That’s one way to do it, I guess. lol Most other frost-tender plants tend to be more cautious about when they put out new growth.  had a hop plant at my old apartment, which really liked the place I put I put it in, but it died when I potted it to try and take with me.

065. Impatiens capensis (jewelweed/spotted touch-me-not) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

066. Juglans nigra (black walnut) This tree has likely been on this property since before I was born. I tapped it spring before last. I’ll tap it next spring too. Seems to be a healthy tree.

067. Kalmia latifolia (mountain laurel) They’re not native to Ontario but they are native to eastern North America, in the Appalachian mountains. I figured if they could survive mountain weather they could handle south Ontario winters, and so far it has. It’s not edible but I fell in love with them a long time ago when reading David Attenborough’s The Secret Life of Plants. And they’re making buds this year!

068. Lactuca canadensis (Canadian lettuce) Yes! We have a native lettuce. Most people will pull it up as a weed along with dandelions and thistles, though. I let it stay wherever possible. It’s not like I can just buy a new one, so I count myself lucky when they come up in my garden.

069. Lilium michiganense (Michigan lily) It made smaller ones, but they don’t seem to have survived for whatever reason. The older ones are very robust this year, though, and are budding with what looks like will be many flowers.

070. Lilium philadelphicum (wood lily) Newly planted! I have not had much luck with these, but hopefully this year’s the year. I have two plants, so maybe they’ll help each other.

071. Lindera benzoin (spicebush) No flowers or butterflies yet, but it’s a healthy bush and lives up to its name.

072. Linum lewisii (blue flax) Newly planted! I’ve wanted these for a long time but the places that carried them either wouldn’t deliver or didn’t have them as plugs or potted stock (I find seeds too unreliable). But now I have a couple in the large stone garden pot that I specifically filled with dirt that would allow for good drainage, for those plants that can survive the cold but not sitting in water.

073. Lupinus perennis (sundial lupine) Soon! Or I already have it. Not sure. See, I was sent an email by the company saying I’d probably accidentally gotten a bigleaf lupine instead and they gave me a coupon for the following spring to get a confirmed sundial lupine, but there is a chance I already have it. Either way it’s a nice plant, so whether I have two plants of the same species or two different species is fine.

074. Lupinus polyphyllus (bigleaf lupine/common lupine) I actually haven’t been able to find this species available for delivery anywhere, so if that is what I currently have, then I’m delighted and this is the best plant mixup that could possibly happen (there have been a number). Whatever it is is a very attractive plant even with just the foliage. I hope it makes flowers this year.

075. Mahonia repens (creeping Oregon grape) Speaking of plant mixups! The first time I ordered this I got a Potentilla nepalensis instead. I didn’t know it at the time, as it had a tag saying “Mahonia repens”, but then it flowered...I wouldn’t have minded terribly much if it had been a native Potentilla species, but “nepalensis” is definitely not that. Well, I emailed the company with a photo and they promptly delivered not one, but two creeping Oregon grape plants, and both seem to be doing okay, making new growth, survived the winter, which the potentilla did not.

076. Maianthemum stellatum (starry false Solomon’s seal) They seem to be doing well! They flowered, but I don’t know if there will be berries. Next year maybe, but then you don’t really see Maianthemum berries until late summer, so maybe there will be a couple this year.

077. Mentha arvensis (wild mint) It’s doing exactly what mint does. Tastes wonderful, which is a great reason for thinning it out and pulling it out from between the sidewalk stones.

078. Mertensia paniculata (tall bluebells) Currently flowering. Despite the name, though they do grow taller than their cousin the Virginia bluebells, I wouldn’t say they’re a bigger plant overall. Very nice though. The flowers are a delicate light blue.

079. Mertensia virginica (Virginia bluebells) When I planted the rootstock in the early summer and nothing came up at all, I thought they had died. But nope! They came up vigorously this spring, with huge leaves and incredibly blue flowers. The flowers are don and it’s starting to die back now, but what a gorgeous springtime plant it is.

080. Monarda didyma (scarlet beebalm) My theory is if you put two members of the mint family next to each other, they’ll keep each other at bay. I’m probably wrong. Anyway, this is already spreading in two directions. Last year caterpillars at a lot of its flowers. I hope that won’t happen this year.

081. Monarda fistulosa (wild bergamot) Has become a very big plant, but politely hasn’t really left it’s immediate area. They make great dried flowers after the winter, by the way, as the seedheads retain the scent. Especially if you squeeze them.

082. Monarda punctata (horsemint) This is starting to fill out now, but compared to the other members of its genus took a very long time to go past a teeny tiny little growth. Last year it got huge shortly after I planted it, so we’ll see if it does that this year. I hope so. The bees, wasps, and other pollinators absolutely loved it.

083. Myosotis laxa (smallflower forget-me-not) I didn’t plant it, I can’t even find it available for sale. It just grows as a weed. It’s just as blue as other forget-me-nots, but with stems that are very leggy and even smaller flowers than the popular garden species. But it’s native so it stays where it’s not directly in my way. It’s very prolific, lots of plants in the garden.

084. Myrica gale (sweet gale/bog myrtle) Only just started making new growth. It seems to be on its way out and I’m not sure why, but it makes me sad. I think last year was really hard on it being so hot so early and I didn’t have a hose then, so I was stuck carrying buckets of water up from my apartment in the basement. But I have a hose this year and I’ve been watering regularly, so maybe, just maybe, it will spring back into action this year. It’s such a pretty bush when in full foliage and the leaves taste like green tea.

085. Oenothera fruticosa (narrow-leaved sundrops) Next weekend! I’ve grown another species which has finished its lifecycle (they’re biennial) and sadly doesn’t seem to have successfully reseeded itself. But maybe this one will.

086. Onoclea sensibilis (sensitive fern) This poor thing struggled hard last year. I planted it between a tree and the house, but it still got a lot of sunlight. Still, it came up this year, and in my experience, second year plants tend to be much more hardy, so we’ll see. It’s doing fine for now.

087. Opuntia fragilis (fragile prickly pear) I did put it in a fairly dry area that gets full sun, but it does struggle in the winter and spring. It is starting to bounce back, though, just like it did last year, and the pieces it scattered are making roots of their own. All of whom are spiky bastards.

088. Opuntia humifusa (eastern prickly pear/devil’s tongue) This did just fine. I had it in a big stone pot which I moved to an area that gets no rain or snow on it, and it’s making new growth now that I’ve moved the pot back into the full sun. It like to spike me whenever I move the pot.

089. Osmundastrum cinnamomeum (cinnamon fern) Next weekend!

090. Oxalis stricta (yellow woodsorrel/sourgrass) It’s not technically native to Ontario, but it is native to Michigan and moved up here decades or possibly centuries ago. I didn’t plant it and you can’t find it in stores because it’s considered a weed, but it is coming up in my garden, it doesn’t hurt anything, and it is a delicious little plant, so it stays.

091. Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper) I didn’t have to buy this because it was already in the yard (it’s common in the ravines), but if it wasn’t I would have, because it’s gorgeous and I like the taste of the berries. It’s a native relative of Boston ivy, so if you’re wanting a wall climber, please get Virginia creeper instead. They’re available at a lot of garden centres and online.

092. Phlox divaricata (woodland phlox/blue phlox) It’s growing, but I think one of the white avens is overcrowding it, so I’ll probably dig that one up and eat it so the phlox can have more space.

093. Podophyllum peltatum (mayapple) Three plants in last year. One plant up this year. Oh well. It’s growing nicely, so hopefully it will spread.

094. Polygonatum biflorum (smooth Solomon’s seal) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

095. Polystichum achrosticoides (Christmas fern) It doesn’t die back in the winter! I mean, the leaves get kind of yellowed, but otherwise just hangs out and makes new growth in spring. My first attempt with ferns (ostrich ferns) was a failure, but so far all my other fern species have been successful and are currently thriving.

096. Prunus americana (American plum) It’s very top heavy when leafed so it flops over whenever it rains which is kind of funny, but it seems to be doing fine.

097. Prunus nigra (black plum/Canada plum) My first black plum died, but this one seems fine.

098. Prunus pumila (sand cherry) Soon! And it better bloody be a sand cherry and not a purple-leaf sandcherry, which is a hybrid, like the last company I ordered one from sent me. But that company didn’t specialize in native plants and carried both plants, whereas this company does specialize in native plants and does not advertise the hybrid at all.

099. Prunus serotina (black cherry) This is the very cherry that is used to flavour black cherry ice cream! But my little tree (not that little anymore lmao) hasn’t made flowers yet. It has nice foliage though it keeps trying to grow into the neighbour’s fence. Don’t know why. The sun doesn’t come from there. Maybe it will flower next spring.

100. Pycnanthemum tenufolium (slender mountain mint) Despite being part of the mint family, this is actually a very polite plant so far that stays in its immediate area.

101. Pycnanthemum virginiana (Virginia mountain mint) Just as polite as its cousin. My first died and I blame the person who lived in another unit who decided that garden bed was an ash tray. I managed to put a stop to that, got all the cigarettes out, dug out a stump, added new dirt, and planted a new Virginia mountain mint as well as bride’s feathers. That particular tenant isn’t there anymore and nobody else does anything with the outside, except to put a garden hyacinth there, which I’ve left in its pot and been watering. I’m not just going to leave the poor thing to die. Anyway, the Virginia mountain mint flowered last year and I hope it does so again this year.

102. Ratibida columnifera (yellow coneflower/upright prairie coneflower) Newly planted! I don’t like to get the cultivar versions if I can avoid it, but I will if that’s all that’s available, or in this case, to get the plants I really wanted, I needed to get something that would put me over the minimum cost. But I didn’t want to leave it at that, so I bought a non-cultivar this year so they can be friends.

103. Ratibida pinnata (gray-headed coneflower/yellow coneflower/pinnate prairie coneflower) This almost flowered last year and the I accidentally broke it with the hose. That will not happen this year. I don’t see a flower stalk yet, but the leaves look healthy.

104. Rhus aromatica (fragrant sumac) It’s putting out flowers, but it did so last year and nothing happened, so I guess we’ll see this year.

105. Rosa blanda (smooth rose) A rose without thorns! Or almost. It’s got leaves out, but it’s a slow grower for a rose and hasn’t flowered yet.

106. Rubus occidentalis (black raspberry) This was supposed to be a red raspberry because black raspberries are easy to find in the ravines, but that’s okay, and I did order a new red raspberry which will hopefully actually be red. lol

107. Rubus strigosus (American red raspberry) Soon! Sometimes considered a variety of Rubus idaeus, which is the one you find in grocery stores. There is one patch I’ve found of them in the ravines, but they’re not nearly as common here as the black raspberry. Hopefully this new plant I get will actually be the red raspberry.

108. Rudbeckia laciniata (cutleaf coneflower/green-headed coneflower) There are two plants with very different leaves growing there. One of them I hope is the plant I intended, but won’t know until they flowers. They’re both doing well, whatever they are.

109. Sambucus canadensis (common elderberry) It’s making flowers this year! I learned the hard way that this species does NOT like being transplanted to a pot, which I had to do to take with me to my current apartment. However, it did eventually bounce back and didn’t mind being transplanted to its current location, which it likes just fine.

110. Shepherdia canadensis (Canada buffaloberry) Next weekend!

111. Solidago canadensis (Canadian goldenrod) I tried to buy this plant but they accidentally sent me an aster species instead. However, there are a bunch of goldenrods growing a different area that I didn’t plant and I believe to be this species.

112. Solidago nemoralis (gray goldenrod) Droops a lot but bounces back quickly.

113. Solidago simplex (spike goldenrod/sticky goldenrod/Mt. Albert Goldenrod) I’ve tried this once before and it died, possibly from being small enough that the ledge it was next to prevented it from getting enough sunlight. I’ve planted the new one far enough from the ledge that it does not get shaded by it, so hopefully that will do the trick.

114. Spiraea alba (meadowsweet) The first year in the new place it struggled a bit, but it’s fine now and it flowered last year.

115. Symphoricarpos orbiculatus (coralberry) Next weekend! It’s also the first time I’ve seen it available anywhere.

116. Symphyotrichum ciliolatum (fringed blue aster/Lindley’s aster/northern heart-leaved aster) A very polite aster, or maybe it’s just being kept under control by the sweet grass (055). Its foliage is that lovely gray-green colour often referred to as “blue” when people talk about holly, spruce, and hosta leaves, and its flowers are that pale blue people often think of as purple or periwinkle but shows up digitally as light blue.

117. Symphyotrichum cordifolium (heart-leaved aster) Doing fine where I planted it.

118. Symphyotrichum laeve (smooth aster) I didn’t have the tag and thought this was a violet when I planted it. It now thinks it owns the space, but looks very nice when it’s in bloom.

119. Symphyotrichum lanceolatum (panicled aster/lance-leaf aster/willow aster/tall white aster/eastern line aster/white-panicle aster/narrow-leaf Michaelmas daisy) Lots of common names. It decided it belonged on the sidewalk last year, but surprisingly agreed when I placed its branches behind the stone line of the garden. We’ll see if we can come to the same agreement this year.

120. Symphyotrichum novae-angliae (New England aster) Not flowering yet this year, but looks it’s getting ready. They’re such a lovely rich violet to purple and I love that they flower so late into autumn too.

121. Taraxacum officinale ceratophorum (fleshy dandelion/horned dandelion/rough dandelion) Obviously didn’t buy it. lol But it is in my garden along with non-native subspecies. Since they don’t harm the plants they grow among, they can stay as long as they’re not in my way.

122. Trillium erectum (red trillium) Next weekend! And I possibly already have one. See, I ordered three trillium species last year as bulbs and planted them, but lost two of the tags. Only two species came up and only the one with the tag flowered this year. So I don’t know if the one that didn’t flower was erectum or grandifolium, so I ordered both again.

123. Trillium flexipes (nodding trillium) It came up this year and it was lovely. Died back now though.

124. Trillium grandiflorum (great white trillium) Next weekend! And I might already have one: see 109. Ontario’s provincial flower. I once made a set of coat of arms style designs with each of the provincial flowers and animals.

125. Urtica dioica gracilis (stinging nettle) Planted itself in my garden back at the old place and if I didn’t trust the other plants would be safe after I left (I was right, by the way; the whole backyard has been turned over) I definitely didn’t think this would be either, so I potted it to take with and got stung for my trouble, but it’s happy in its new home. Lives up to its name, of course, but I did eat a few of the tops earlier this year in soup and later in pasta sauce, so I suppose we’re even.

126. Vaccinium angustifolium (lowbush blueberry/wild blueberry) When you see “wild blueberries” in the grocery store in Ontario, it’s this. It always seems to struggle with mould in the spring. Every year I’ve had it. I got it a friend in hopes it would help, but they seem to both be dealing with it now. I’ll have cut back the bad branches and hope that helps. It usually does, but I don’t know why it starts in the first place. None of the neighbouring plants are suffering.

127. Vaccinium corymbosom (highbush blueberry) This is the species you’ll most often see in the grocery store in Ontario as “blueberries”. My bush always makes some flowers and berries, but it’s not doing great right now. Not sure why. It doesn’t get mould the way the lowbush blueberries do. I hope it’s not on its way out. You can get them at a lot of garden centres, but there’s usually a minimum amount of plants or a minimum cost, and garden centres that specialize in native plants don’t often carry these, while garden centres that don’t often don’t have any other native species or at least not any I need or have room for. So for my purposes they’re kind of hard to get.

128. Verbena hastata (blue vervain) Was off to a slow start this year, but it’s doing just fine now.

129. Viburnum acerifolium (mapleleaf viburnum) Next weekend!

130. Viburnum lentago (nannyberry) It’s doing fine, just fine, but I doubt I’ll get any berries for some time yet.

131. Viburnum nudum cassinoides (Witherod viburnum) A lovely little bush so far. Maybe I’ll get flowers next spring.

132. Viola adunca (hookedspur violet/western dog violet/early blue violet) Hopefully coming by the end of this month! My first go with this plant was not successful. Hopefully better luck this time.

133. Viola blanda (sweet white violet) Exactly what it says on the tin. There’s a delicate pink to the centre, and the foliage is nice too.

134. Viola canadensis (Canada violet) It’s tall for a violet, and spreading nicely with lots of flowers.

135. Viola labradorica (purple Labrador violet) Next weekend! Despite it’s name, it is also native to Ontario.

136. Viola sororia (wood violet/blue violet) This is most common violet you see generally, which makes it hard, though not impossible, to find in garden centres. However, they’ve planted themselves in the yard and I’ve successfully transferred one to one of the beds. I have other place I want to put the rest before I dig up that area.

137. Vitis riparia (riverbank grape) I have two plants because I didn’t realize when I bought it that hiding among the weeds in another part of the garden there already was one. Oh well. Guaranteed cross-pollination of two genetically diverse individuals. They’re both doing well.

138. Zizia aurea (golden alexanders) They’re doing well. It looks a lot like wild parsnip, which it is related to, but it’s much more friendly, and I ate some this spring.

I may be able to order more. We’ll see. One of my go-to places says they won’t ship until “opening day”. I guess they mean when their area reopens, but that might not be till next year. Meantime, I will continue to construct my garden wall in the back.

[creaturesfromelsewhere]

Secret Garden

February is springtime in La Florida.  Might be hard to imagine for folks still frozen in those more northerly of places, but by mid-February, Winter has released its weak and arthritic grip on our peninsula of sand and ship wrecks and the flowers are back in bloom. In my particular neck of the woods, the former owner planted a perfusion of pink flowering shrubs.  I’m more keen to the screening aspects of these fine plants than I am to their flowers, but to each their own.   Their dense foliage does a fine job of screening my secret garden from prying eyes.

Goths love our secret gardens.  Whether on a balcony or in a back yard, we enjoy our private garden space where we can relax and let the flora screen us from unwelcome eyes and shade us from the blistering sun.

Now, there’s nothing about a secret garden that is especially Florida, except for the early time of year when one can enjoy it.  Back when I lived in Minnesota, my balcony secret garden was useful for about three days in August between the Spring and Autumn blizzards, and when I lived in LA my balcony garden was only nice whenever the smoke from the wildfires cleared on those two days in June, but I have to say - my Florida secret garden is amazing year round.

A short, leaf littered trail through a sea of ferns leads one beneath a new iron trellis (replacing the 40 year old rotting wooden one left by the previous gladewarden) to a cast aluminum bistro nestled among the ferns where one may read or lunch in nature’s embrace.    A perfusion of Spanish moss filters the sunlight. 

For night time relaxation, a single candle and solar lantern softly illuminate the glade.  Good conversation and crickets provide the soundtrack.  What more could one possibly need within a secret garden?

If you’re visiting the Tampa Bay area and you want to experience a truely magnificent secret garden, you need to visit the Sunken Gardens at 1825 4th St. N. St. Petersburg.  This is an old school, densely planted kind of arboretum - plenty of shade from the evil sun and the parking is good, too.  Unlike modern arboretums, the plants at Sunken Gardens are packed together like a jungle.  I’ve brought several dates here and they’re always stunned by the natural beauty.  And I have to say, seeing a lovely goth goddess drifting through this garden is a rare treat not many are privileged to behold.  Honestly, I don’t know why they stopped arranging arboretums in this fashion, but this is the way they should be.  One of the best kept secret gardens in the world.

As for my own secret garden, I’ve not shared it with many.  Only a privileged few will ever set foot within my hidden glade, and that’s as it should be.  The darkly inclined treasure those places that enfold us, embrace us, and shadow us away.  And above all else, we strive to keep them hidden.

I make sure there are plenty of seeds for the birds and fresh water for all the critters within my secret garden.  At least one black snake and one black vulture have visited in addition to several resident squirrels and countless song birds.  A red tailed hawk stops by in the day, always watchful for any squirrel that becomes complacent.  After dark the bats flutter about and hawk moths visit the night-blooming flowers.  The bats dive-bomb the bird bath and skim the water to slake their thirst by moonlight.  Unseen things are heard scurrying about within the ferns under cover of darkness.  Sometimes, the morning reveals the mangled corpses of small creatures that were not quick enough to survive the night.  The black vultures take care of the remains.  Whatever kills by the light of the moon remains unseen, which is as it should be. 

It is a secret garden, after all.

CreaturesFromElsewhere 2/27/2021

[crazycrittersinc]

(Orchidaceae) Orchids in Florida at Crazy Critters Inc.

Exotic, beautiful, with thousands of species and as many hybrids, orchids are popular with homeowners and can be an obsession for the serious collector. And contrary to popular belief, they're not difficult to grow.

[gallery ids="3525,3523,3521,3519,3518,3517" type="slideshow"]

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Many orchids thrive in Florida's heat and humidity, like Cattleya and Phalaenopsis, and can do well in the home and around the yard.

Most orchids need to be repotted every few years, and many can be divided into smaller plants. Orchids typically prefer at least partial shade or filtered sunlight and should be protected from cold temperatures.

Most orchids are epiphytes and they need special media in which to grow.

Some of the most common ingredients in commercially available orchid mixes are chopped tree fern fiber, chopped fir tree bark, osmunda fiber, charcoal, and volcanic rock. These materials all help to create the loose, well-drained environment that orchids crave.

Choose from containers made of plastic, clay, wire, or redwood. Some orchids can be mounted on a piece of cork or other bark. Every two years or so you'll need to replace the orchid growing media for each of your plants.

Aphids

Aphids, which are soft-bodied, pear-shaped insects about 1/8th-inch long, are a common Phalaenopsis pest. These green or black bugs suck plant juices and excrete a sticky sap that grows sooty mold if not detected early. Dispatch them by squirting the plant all over with a strong stream of water from a spray bottle. Repeat every few days. For a serious infestation, spray with insecticidal soap according to label directions. Spray again each week for two weeks following the initial spraying to eliminate successive generations.

Scale

Both soft scale, which is cottony and white, and hard scale -- round, brown bumps on stems and leaves -- attack Phalaenopsis orchids. Under the protective covering is tiny, sucking insects. Use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to dislodge scale or rub with your fingers or a soft toothbrush, with or without alcohol. Repeat treatment to kill recently hatched insects. For a serious infestation, spray the plant with neem oil, which will smother the insects.

Mealybugs

Mealybugs are about 1/8th-inch long, oval white insects with filaments on their bodies that give the impression of legs. They hatch and hide in potting media and will lodge in crevices and under pot trays, not just on plants. Dispatch mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or spray the entire plant with rubbing alcohol, letting it dribble into the base and into the planting medium. Let stand five minutes, then spray with water. Neem oil and insecticidal soaps also kill mealybugs.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are tiny pests that often are not detected until the result of their damage appears. Leaves look silvery or stippled because the mites have killed the cells of the surface layer by sucking. They also spin webs among leaves. If you suspect mites, wipe a white cloth over both sides of a leaf. If mites are present, red or brown streaks will dirty the cloth. Humidity is crucial to preventing mites, so wipe the plant with water and increase the humidity in the growing area. A spray of rubbing alcohol mixed with a few drops of dishwashing liquid also kills mites. Repeat weekly for several weeks to kill newly hatched pests.

Light and Temperature

To encourage flowering, your plant will need good light levels in the winter, making an east- or west-facing window a perfect location. In the summertime, you will need to move it to a shadier spot, but away from direct sunlight. When the leaves get dusty, you should just wipe the dust off with a damp cloth (dust keeps the leaves from receiving a proper amount of light). Moth orchids will grow the best in a warm environment with temperatures in the 60s at night and from the high 60's to the mid-80's during the daytime. You should always place them in an area away from drafts. If you have a large, healthy plant but it is not producing flowers, you can reduce the temperature by 8-10 degrees for a month, which should result in the development of a flower spike.

Moth Orchids: You WILL Be Successful With These!

Phalaenopsis orchids, or moth orchids, are an excellent choice for the beginning orchid grower because of their months-long bloom period and ease of care. Due to increased commercial propagation, they are one of the most affordable orchids available and one of the few that will rebloom under household conditions. Common pests that attack most houseplants also target orchids. As with other plants, prevention is the best cure. With more than 25,000 different kinds of orchids on the planet, it’s no wonder that more than a couple of them made our weird list. The Moth Orchid is actually the most common type of orchid and bears the name because of its supposed resemblance to a moth in flight. Native to southeast Asia, the Philippines, and northern Australia, the Moth Orchid isn’t exactly hard to find and it comes in nearly every color of the rainbow. So what exactly sets it apart from its 24,999+ orchid siblings? The Moth Orchid’s uncanny ability to have multiple blooming periods— when grown in optimal conditions of course!

Phalaenopsis Culture

Place moth orchids in an east-facing window, out of direct sun. Night temperatures should not dip below 62 degrees Fahrenheit and daytime temperatures should range from 70 to 80 degrees. The plants can summer outdoors in a shaded spot. Water them weekly, in the morning, using rainwater or distilled water. Don’t let the plant sit in water, but provide extra humidity by placing it on a saucer full of stones or gravel. Remove dead plant material promptly, and inspect plants regularly for pests, particularly on the undersides of leaves.

Aphi

Because the moth orchid (phalaenopsis) is one of the easier to grow in this group of strange-looking flowers, I am going to go into a little more detail about them. They are a houseplant that flowers all year round, but if you should need to re-pot, you can do so in the spring to early summer. They will grow from about six inches to almost three feet high and can have a spread of about 12 inches.

How to Identify a Phalaenopsis Orchid

Before you do anything, you must first determine if your plant is, indeed, a moth orchid, because different types of orchids require different care.

Moth orchids usually have three to six very broad floppy leaves, and the flower spike appears between those leaves. The flowers can look differently and can be pink, yellow, white, or they can have stripes or a splotchy effect. They are usually about two to four inches wide and they will bloom on a spike that could be from a foot to 18 inches long. It is possible that there will be more than one spike on a large plant, which could have up to 15 flowers (or even more). There are a lot of images on the internet that you could use for comparison.

Once you are sure that your plant is a moth orchid, then you can safely follow the tips that I have presented here for you.

Flowering Moth Orchids

Your blooms should last about three months but sometimes can last even longer, and they can bloom all through the year. When the flowers fade, cut the flowering stalk back (just above the second node, which should be visible beneath the spent blooms. Once you cut them back, it is possible that a new flowering side shoot could develop.

Watering

Your plant will need to be watered regularly (about once a week) during the growing season, but during the winter, you can reduce the watering slightly. Always make sure you have proper drainage. The foliage needs to be kept dry, so when you are watering the plant, be careful not to get the water on the leaves, but in the summertime, you can lightly mist your plant.

Over-watering will kill this gorgeous plant. Under-watering it is much less likely to have detrimental results.

Using Fertilizer

Feed your plant about once a month with a 10/10/10 or 20/20/20 plant food formula. Feeding can be done more often in the growing season. It is important to make sure that harmful accumulations of salts are leached from the compost, so about every fourth watering, use only plain water with no fertilizer. During the winter months, you only need to feed your plant very sparingly.

Most orchids are grown in clear pots so that you can see what is happening with the roots in an effort to avoid root rot, which will kill the plant.

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Here’s a list from the American Orchid Society that gives a general outline growing requirements for orchids that do well outside in Florida:

* Cattleya Alliance Hybrid is the showy corsage variety, especially Laelia anceps, and requires half sun. It’s temperature-tolerant.

* Phalaenopsis is great for beginners and does well in full shade.

* Dendrobiums: The Indian and Australian types are best, requiring half sun. They are temperature tolerant.

* Vanda flowers in summer months and takes a lot of suns.

* Epidendrums, especially the brilliant reed-stem types, do fine in South Florida. They need almost full sun but are temperature tolerant.

* Oncidiums: Choose the Mexican species, or higher-elevation types, with light requirements of bright shade to half sun.

* Paphiopedilums are slippered orchids and fare best in shaded gardens.

* Spathoglottis have broad, palm-like leaves and spikes of purple and yellow flowers. Grow them in shade to half sun.

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[greenindoorplants-blog]

Ten Exciting Parts Of Attending Indoor Plants Online

Analysis constantly links indoor flowers (and crops, however they have not been talked about in many protest slogans) with wellbeing. Meeuws and three different Dutch bioengineers have taken the idea of a greenhouse a step further, rising greens, herbs and house crops in enclosed and regulated environments the place even pure light is excluded. There, he grew cut flowers and flowering plants that the flowery florists needed but couldn't Gift Plants purchase by way of native growers or the wholesale market on 28th Street in Manhattan. Unstable organic compounds in the type of formaldehyde, benzene and hexane are often given off by paints and carpeting and crops assist to wash these compounds out of the air, he instructed Reuters Well being. I want giving the vines a sort of help like a robust stem or one thing that permits the money plant vines to climb on it. Scheffleras do properly in modest gentle as does the ever common dumb cane (dieffenbachia). Mr. Rutter began Evergrow along with his 26-12 months-old son, Adam, who started rising plants at house as a young person.

      You possibly can send an indoor plant question Send A Plant however earlier than you do, please read this data on watering your indoor houseplants , tips on how to help keep your home plant's root system healthy and lighting in your houseplants These are most important for your house plant's well being and that is among the data I will refer you to while you ship an e-mail. Not just glances, however pick the plants up, look below leaves and down on the soil line. In late spring and summer season, the Maracas Brazilian Fireworks sprouts deep purple flower bracts that later on develop purple flowers making the entire plant look very enticing. Nothing like having crops that don't require too much Indoor Plants maintenance and easy to keep alive! Zebra vegetation: Much like the low gentle houseplant pothos, zebra vegetation can tolerate numerous lighting conditions; nevertheless, vibrant mild is best. Some vegetation that it's best to move away from the window embody - moth orchids, flame violets, peace lily, thanksgiving cactus, most palms, coleus, snake plant, zebra plant, philodendron and ferns.

This isn't an actual science however your vegetation will tell you if you are fertilizing an excessive amount of by having burned or dried leaves....fertilize less frequently if you happen to discover this. I am truly looking for new ideas for my window crops and think Perennial Plants For Sale that your choice is the perfect. Feed them a very good fertilizer formulated for indoor vegetation and observe the directions on the bottle to the letter, overfeeding can acidify the soil and burn their roots. Plants like these will look finest on their very own small side table, or on an in any other case empty shelf. Learn how to take care of it: This home plant favors low humidity and in addition low light, making it great for rooms with few home windows. The real bonus is that they're healthy for us.

      Mainly crops take in carbon dioxide and turn it into oxygen (photosynthesis) thereby purifying the air that we breath. The biggest conservatory in the U.S. is situated at Longwood Gardens with 4.5 acres of wonderful Indoor Hanging Plants plants to take pleasure in. It does best with low, oblique mild, which makes it an important indoor plant for the house and workplace. Use a palm or tropical plant potting mix for finest results, and remember to defend it from cool drafts or A/C vents. Portland Common Electrical, as an illustration, needed to arrange a separate billing system for dwelling-grow operations to maintain them separate from Bonneville. Now we have fairly chilly winter with 20% sunny days and I don't think I can develop a small bush or tree indoors with out good robust garden gentle. It's the greatest replacement for the true life crops you want to your lounge. This particular type of gardening is catching on and those that are dedicated to it depend on the lights for shows of bloom.

      Wholesale growers in Florida and Texas are acquainted with this phenomenon and acclimatize their Flowering Indoor Plants crops to low indoor gentle levels by rising them beneath heavy shade before the vegetation are shipped north on the market. Attention have to be paid to watering because the frequency and amount of water needed will change as the quantity of sunshine publicity will increase. One of many main differences between indoor plant care in the summertime and in the colder months is the temperature of the room during which your vegetation are rising. Thank you for reading my hub about my vegetation and thanks on your variety comments Dolores Monet.

    Tag:

  Plant Delivery,Flower Plants,Flowering House Plants,Indoor Hanging Plants,Order Plants Online,Buy Trees Online

[ethankburkeuk]

Tips for Packing House Plants

Whether you’re a fool for a fern, have a green thumb, or are just an ordinary Easter Lily lover, you’re very likely to have a plant in your house. Now when a relocation comes up, they’re usually either neglected or totally forgotten.

You are not dealing with the mere relocation of your patio benches. Plants are living beings that deserve to be treated with care, especially during a situation as crazy as a moving. If you actually care about them just follow these few guidelines and they will arrive at your new home safe and sound.

Some Pointers to Keep in Mind

1) If you’re relocating to a brand-new state in the US, particularly California, Arizona, Florida, or Oregon, double- and triple-check your new state’s guidelines. Shockingly, some states have hard-boiled guidelines on the kinds of plants that you can bring with you, and numerous typical home plants are on the “no” list. And if you’re considering shirking the law because ‘who is going to find out, anyhow?’, understand that the majority of these states (California in specific) will stop a moving truck and check for plants at the border.

2) Most moving businesses, whether they’re regional movers or across the country moving businesses, will not move your home plants. Some will, but will not cover any damage that may take place throughout packaging, filling, transit, or delivery.

3) The Gypsy Moth, which feeds voraciously on foliage, is an increasing issue in the United States. We suggest that you proactively deal with all your home plants in order to get rid of the Gypsy Moth prior to relocating to help avoid their spread.

Materials you will Need to Pack your Plants

Heavy 10lb. Loading Paper or Newsprint.

PLASTIC (not ceramic) Planting Pots. One for every single home plant.

Wrapping paper.

Tough Moving Boxes.

Preparing your Plants for the Move

3 Weeks Before your Move.

Repot all your plants into plastic pots of the very same size as the initial pot utilizing disinfected potting soil (you can get this at any house enhancement shop or garden center).

1 Week Before your Move.

Prune all your plants. This helps keep the plant healthy while it withstands the tension of the move.

Day of your Move (or the Night Before).

1) Wrap big plants carefully with an old bedsheet or with loading paper. This helps safeguard vulnerable branches from snapping throughout the move.

2) For taller plants, pack the pot with sphagnum moss and after that cover the pot with stretch wrap. This will enable you to carry the plant on its side without spilling potting soil all over.

3) Place smaller sized plants inside a regular moving box, and fill the voids in between the pots (as much as the rim of the pot) with “dunnage”– crumpled packaging paper or newsprint, foam, or bubble wrap.

4) Cut airshafts in packages and (if you need to) tape the top of package loosely. Even over a period as brief as an hour, lack of oxygen can significantly hurt your plants.

5) Plants are vulnerable to temperature level modifications. If possible, keep them in a regulated environment the whole time (the A/C in your cars and truck is ideal for this). On longer relocations, do not leave your plants in your lorry overnight– bring them into your hotel with you.

6) When you come to your brand-new house, bring your plants inside initially, prior to doing anything else. Your plants have actually sustained a fair bit of tension (you most likely have too!), so get some water for the both of you.

The post Tips for Packing House Plants appeared first on Man and Van Move Bournemouth | Removals Service | Moving company | House Clearance across Dorset.

from http://manvanmove.co.uk/tips-packing-house-plants/

from   Man Van Move Bournemouth - Blog http://manvanmove.weebly.com/blog/tips-for-packing-house-plants

[onenicebugperday]

@margot-of-venus submitted: Hi! I love your blog so very much and I was wondering if you could help me ID this guy? Found in the Midwestern United States during the summer. Sorry if it’s not clear enough to identify </3 Tysm!!!!!!!!!!!

Hello! Thank you!

This beautiful and fancy friend is a Florida fern moth.

For future reference, I usually need a state rather than a region for an accurate ID. The Midwest is enormous and specific location can make a big difference between species in a genus that look really really similar. I can always remove location if you're not comfortable with me sharing it. :)

[seandfraseruk]

Tips for Packing House Plants

Whether you’re a fool for a fern, have a green thumb, or are just an ordinary Easter Lily lover, you’re very likely to have a plant in your house. Now when a relocation comes up, they’re usually either neglected or totally forgotten.

You are not dealing with the mere relocation of your patio benches. Plants are living beings that deserve to be treated with care, especially during a situation as crazy as a moving. If you actually care about them just follow these few guidelines and they will arrive at your new home safe and sound.

Some Pointers to Keep in Mind

1) If you’re relocating to a brand-new state in the US, particularly California, Arizona, Florida, or Oregon, double- and triple-check your new state’s guidelines. Shockingly, some states have hard-boiled guidelines on the kinds of plants that you can bring with you, and numerous typical home plants are on the “no” list. And if you’re considering shirking the law because ‘who is going to find out, anyhow?’, understand that the majority of these states (California in specific) will stop a moving truck and check for plants at the border.

2) Most moving businesses, whether they’re regional movers or across the country moving businesses, will not move your home plants. Some will, but will not cover any damage that may take place throughout packaging, filling, transit, or delivery.

3) The Gypsy Moth, which feeds voraciously on foliage, is an increasing issue in the United States. We suggest that you proactively deal with all your home plants in order to get rid of the Gypsy Moth prior to relocating to help avoid their spread.

Materials you will Need to Pack your Plants

Heavy 10lb. Loading Paper or Newsprint.

PLASTIC (not ceramic) Planting Pots. One for every single home plant.

Wrapping paper.

Tough Moving Boxes.

Preparing your Plants for the Move

3 Weeks Before your Move.

Repot all your plants into plastic pots of the very same size as the initial pot utilizing disinfected potting soil (you can get this at any house enhancement shop or garden center).

1 Week Before your Move.

Prune all your plants. This helps keep the plant healthy while it withstands the tension of the move.

Day of your Move (or the Night Before).

1) Wrap big plants carefully with an old bedsheet or with loading paper. This helps safeguard vulnerable branches from snapping throughout the move.

2) For taller plants, pack the pot with sphagnum moss and after that cover the pot with stretch wrap. This will enable you to carry the plant on its side without spilling potting soil all over.

3) Place smaller sized plants inside a regular moving box, and fill the voids in between the pots (as much as the rim of the pot) with “dunnage”– crumpled packaging paper or newsprint, foam, or bubble wrap.

4) Cut airshafts in packages and (if you need to) tape the top of package loosely. Even over a period as brief as an hour, lack of oxygen can significantly hurt your plants.

5) Plants are vulnerable to temperature level modifications. If possible, keep them in a regulated environment the whole time (the A/C in your cars and truck is ideal for this). On longer relocations, do not leave your plants in your lorry overnight– bring them into your hotel with you.

6) When you come to your brand-new house, bring your plants inside initially, prior to doing anything else. Your plants have actually sustained a fair bit of tension (you most likely have too!), so get some water for the both of you.

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[onenicebugperday]

@cybercrumbz submitted: SOMEBUGGY HAS BEEN MUNCHING ON MY RABBITS FOOT FERN!!! found the culprit today....what are they? [removed] (remove location)

A criminal! Looks like a fern moth, which makes sense, given what it was nibbling. Probably a Florida fern moth, Callopistria floridensis. They have a range of different coloration including the outfit your friend here is wearing and this one here:

Cute :) Photo by ares-afc

[discovermoths]

dear anybody who knows stuff about moths

hey guys so i currently have somewhat of an infestation in my house of florida fern moths. we haven't noticed any damage or anything we've just found probably about 10, and we put them outside when we find them so there is definitely multiple of them. we do have a fern, and many other plants, so it isn't a surprise that they're here. does anybody know anything about how to deter them? i know some fun facts about them like that they have arsenic inside of them, but i don't really know anything helpful in this situation.