#filaree

[crudlynaturephotos]

[mente-forte-arte-audace]

Filaree (Erodjum cicutarium) Cicutaria o becco di gru comune. 🌸🌿

Questo fiore aiuta le persone ad acquisire una prospettiva più ampia sulla vita quotidiana, vedendo così un punto di vista più ampio sugli eventi della loro vita. Ottengono una visione più cosmica della vita, tenendo in prospettiva gli eventi quotidiani. Aiuta l'individuo a fare un passo indietro e vedere il quadro più ampio in modo che le questioni banali non interferiscano con la gioia di vivere la vita.

[stopandlook]

Scientific Name: Erodium cicutarium Common Name(s): Redstem stork’s bill, redstem filaree Family: Geraniaceae (geranium) Life Cycle: Annual, biennial Leaf Retention: N/A, basal rosette Habit: Forb USDA L48 Native Status: Introduced Location: Allen, Texas Season(s): Late winter

Flowers and developing fruits.

[psikonauti]

Marion Patterson (American,b. 1933)

Filaree, Sequoia National Park, ca. 1960

[b4kuch1n]

second round art fightin (u guessed it! all revenge babeyy) on - in order - @lilaccoffin's Sueño De Luto, pasettri's Yuma Yoshino, and @helianthyme's Violet Filaree. awooga !

[thepomegranatewitch]

today's Fifth Acre work: sheet mulching!

I have decided to sheet mulch as well as sieve the stones and broken glass, rusty nails, and general trash from the top soil before I start compost application and soil amendment. The rest of the weeds (filaree, ugh) can be pulled with about six hours of work, and then I'll have two plots. Terrace West will be a three sisters based garden with some others like chard, kale, eggplant, tomatoes, and peppers. Terrace Center will have sunflowers, cucumbers, cantaloupe, and nightshades. Terrace East is already planted with potatoes and alliums, and Terrace Top has some potatoes, thornless blackberries, and a raspberry that decided it ain'tn't dead yet.

Image description: two images, both of a garden sheet mulched with cardboard on an overcast day. The left shows a long view of an 800 sqft area sheet mulched, and clover and filaree in foreground unmulched. Right shows two raised beds, overrun with filaree, with sheet mulching around the left side and trampled filaree on the right.

I found some volunteers while working: a pansy by the compost over in Terrace East, and some Eschscholzia poppies at the edge of Terrace West and the shrine garden.

Image description: two closeup photos of flowers. Left is a pansy about the size of a quarter growing out of a small leaf cluster among many other green plants in rocky soil. It has two purple upper petals, two small white side petals, and a yellow beard petal with black striping. Right is a California poppy bud and unopened blossom, growing amongst its own dense foliage and clover leaves.

Tomorrow I stop in at a queer / trans asian gardeners collective to see if I'm a good fit for joining. Wish me luck!

[k-botany]

Erodium cicutarium L. Family: Geraniaceae

Common name: Redstem Filaree or Redstem Stork's Bill.

The name "Erodium cicutarium" comes from the Greek word "erodios" meaning "heron," due to the fruit's resemblance to a heron's beak, and "cicutarium" from the Latin "cicuta," referring to the similarity of its leaves to those of the toxic hemlock plant.

[wyrmoftheweb]

savescummed in my dream last night in order to say the correct combination of words and do the correct actions to receive a gift from a young* dryad**, which was a small bundle of filaree that bloomed at my feet, which i had to carefully dig from the earth without breaking any roots.

*young here means around 200 years old. her mother was in the same grove, a giant willow older than time with branches that hung down to the ground and were covered so much in spiders that i got the message that she definitely did not want my company

**dryad is the closest established name i am using here for a species of treelike beings/spirits which disguise as trees, but they did look a lot barkier and more treelike than your classic actual dryad bc they were made of tree and the young ones sometimes came out of the earth to walk on their roots like spiders. the old ones' root systems were generally too ingrained to do so

[fyrmayj]

Feeling sorry for myself this afternoon because a) some guy stole my bike right in front of me today and I couldn't stop him and then b) unrelatedly I got an angry voicemail from a coworker who assumes the worst in people and got mad about something I did (which was, imo, exactly what she claimed to want me to do, so. Can't do much about that).

So instead of wallowing I wanted to remind myself (semipermanently?) of all the cool and nice things I experienced this week too!

(Text and photos below the cut)

I saw a really cool hawk at the park today, I think maybe a Cooper's hawk - just a flash of stripy wings and it landed in a tree. Usually I only see red-tailed hawks, and much farther away!

My partner and I planted wildflower seeds a couple months ago, and the Tidy Tips and Baby Blue Eyes (photo 1 below) are not only flourishing but attracting pollinators, and neighbors! A group of teenagers took pictures and a group of tiny kiddos even took some tiny bouquets with them yesterday. Our yard is the only yard with flowers other than the volunteer plants (dominated by brome grasses and filaree, which has cute flowers but isn't native and makes gnarly poky seeds) so it makes me really happy that others are appreciating what we've got growing.

My partner and I work from home most days, and go for walking breaks in our neighborhood. While I went on a walk this afternoon, one older neighbor stopped me to ask if I wanted some of her sage! (She'd noticed we always point to the cool plants in her yard, lol) So I got a free clipping of a native sage to plant.

I saw a ton of gorgeous wildflowers yesterday in a field and identified a new favorite native plant - Bird's Eye Gilia! (Photo 2 below)

I have a super cute cat. (Photo 3 below)

I made a flourless chocolate cake recipe for the first time ever, and it was an amazing success considering I didn't have a 9-in springform pan - instead used two 4.5-in springforms and a dozen muffin cups. I am so proud lol (photo 4 below)

Image ID in the alt text!

[libidomechanica]

She, endless is private inters raisd Laura, come be

Like a rundown its goblets. I lose him with passeth. She, endless is private inter’s rais’d Laura, come be seemed I was thou done, and David’d Ruler of Fates, and modern his Prince; for the must to grows, which think State. Him her look at better arm there hast save won, and themselves, and sting that freshly judged with spirit woman. For such my teares. But not filaree a think on a hill on us, and hear to please nothings had you been?

[crudlynaturephotos]

[daniela--anna]

FAGGIO SELVATICO

Fagus sylvatica- Faggio

da cui si ricava il rimedio omeopatico

Fiori di Bach n.3 Beech

Tipo di Fiore: Assistente

Gruppo Emotivo: Dominanza

Disturbo: Arroganza, intolleranza, criticismo.

Proprietà: Sviluppare comprensione e tolleranza.

🌿Possibili associazioni con Fiori Californiani:

Chamomile: per l’irritabilità, la tensione, lo stress emotivo e il nervosismo.

Calendula: per l’aggressività, la litigiosità, la tendenza alla polemica e all’uso di parole taglienti.

Filaree: per l’incapacità di inquadrare gli eventi minori della vita in prospettive più ampie.

Quaking Grass: per l’incapacità di accettare le opinioni altrui, per il desiderio di non mescolarsi alla gente, per integrare la propria individualità con la famiglia, la società, l’ambiente.

Snapdragon: per il sarcasmo, l’aggressività verbale, la tendenza all’offesa e alla collera.

Sunflower: per l’arroganza, la presunzione e l’incapacità di esprimere se stessi fino in fondo.

📚 Prontuario erboristico.

#erbe

#natura

[theghostpinesmusic]

Sabbatical Project Preface Draft (3/4)

Click below for part three of the preface! I'm just sticking these behind inline breaks because it's easier to read than italicizing the entire thing to separate it from this introduction...

In my current position, I teach general education courses to students from all of my university’s major programs, and am thus required to be a “subject matter expert” (a daunting term!) in a number of fields; however, my doctoral research was in the environmental humanities (or, as it was known a decade ago, “ecocriticism”). Though my first scholarly love was actually medieval literature, by the time I was putting the finishing touches on a Master’s thesis on Chaucer’s “Pardoner’s Tale,” my younger self’s penchant for wandering Ohio’s downtowns and city parks on foot had been fully transformed into something fuller and deeper by the twin beauties of Washington’s Palouse prairie and Idaho’s ponderosa forests. Translating Old and Middle English slowly but surely took a backseat to weekend hikes and then summer backpacking trips, and by the time I applied to Washington State University’s doctoral program in 2008, it was to complete an “ecocritical” dissertation on what I eventually came to label “alternative wildernesses.”

Completing said dissertation involved four years of investigating the roots of the American conceptions of “nature” and “wilderness,” then proposing ways that we might potentially expand those conceptions. I wanted to identify and argue for ways to give more people better access to the kinds of “wild” experiences that had changed and improved my life immeasurably by connecting me to something I felt to be complex, timeless, and meaningful when compared to modern life, which seemed to me simple, ephemeral, and empty. Like a good academic, I spent much of those four years trying to clearly define what exactly that “something” was (“nature”? “wilderness”?). I read and I wrote, sure, but I also started spending more and more time in the wilderness, and it was primarily through those experiences that I began to develop a sneaking suspicion that it wasn’t actually possible to define that “something” academically – or at least that it didn’t need to be defined in such a way for connection to it to be meaningful.

However, it did need to be defined in such a way for me to be able to graduate with my doctorate, so I tried my best. By the time I had finished a first draft of the manuscript, though, my experiences in the wilderness had informed my thinking as much as all the reading, writing, and seminar discussions had, if not more so, and thus leaving them out of my dissertation in the name of academic “objectivity” began to feel dishonest. How could I – for example – define “wilderness” with an acceptable degree of academic rigor (citations needed!) when the very roots of any such definition necessarily emerged from my personal experiences smelling the sun-warmed bark of a centuries-old redwood, watching spring’s first patch of filaree get tugged back and forth by the wind, and hearing a wolf howl across a rushing river in the cold November moonlight?

In the end, I brokered what felt like an uneasy truce by deciding to preface each research-heavy chapter of Alternative Wildernesses with a short, nonfictional episode taken from my own “wild” experiences. It was a half-measure, yes, but a necessary one: I was enrolled in a Literature program, not a Creative Writing program, after all, and I was expected to communicate what I had learned through four years of graduate education, not what I had learned through four years of education in the classroom of trees, rocks, and dirt.

When I decided to apply for sabbatical, eleven years after finishing Alternative Wildernesses,it was for reasons both personal and academic. By 2023, the haze I had lived 2020 under had barely and only occasionally lifted, and I hoped that a sabbatical would be helpful in its most basic sense: “sabbatical,” of course, coming from the Hebrew word “shabbāth,” meaning “rest.” If even God had needed a break, I reasoned, I wouldn’t begrude myself one. Rather than absconding to some far-off country for a year like many of my colleagues had, though, I decided that I would stay in my beloved Oregon, and simply spend more time than usual – in-between spells of reading and writing, of course – outside, walking under the sun and sleeping under the stars. It felt, intuitively, like the best way to heal.

Academically, I felt that I had some unfinished business with the concept of wilderness and my – our – relationship to it. Eleven years on, my sense was that Alternative Wildernesses had been watered down by the inclusion of my personal asides, necessary as they had seemed at the time. Now, with another decade-plus in academia under my belt, I intended to use my sabbatical year to bring the full brunt of the environmental humanities to bear on the question of humanity’s place in the world. And this time, I would produce a “real” academic work.

Long story short, it didn’t work out that way. Many things happened throughout this year to change my mind, but there were two pebbles in particular that touched off the avalanche.

Six months ago, I took a solo backpacking trip in one of my favorite places, the Eagle Cap Wilderness in northeastern Oregon. Rather than entering the range from the north after driving through the small town of Joseph as I’d done many times in the past, this time I came up from the south, through the relatively larger town of Baker City, and hiked north up the South Fork Imnaha River and then around the circumference of the Eagle Cap massif itself before following the East Fork Eagle River back downhill to my car. Everything about the trip was incredible, but two moments in particular are pertinent to my subject here. The first was on the second day, as I hiked north into the enormous glacial cirque below Hawkins Pass. It was as if the very heart of the earth was laid bare in the expanse before me, and as I climbed the pass, it seemed as if I was not only looking across space, but across time. I’ve never felt so small and so at home on the Earth at the same time. This feeling returned on the third night when, just as I’d finished setting up camp east of Hidden Lake, three female elk charged into the clearing north of me. As I remained unseen in a small stand of trees, they proceeded to splash and play together unselfconsciously, until two male elk’s bugles pierced the lake basin, followed shortly by the two male elk themselves. I discuss this experience in more detail later on in the book, but for now suffice to say that the alternating playfulness and majesty of those animals, at home in and in tune with their environment in a way that I have never been, threw into doubt my and modernity’s myopia in a way that has stuck with me since.

Then, two months ago, during a series of long flights across the country, I read all of Barry Lopez’s Arctic Dreams in one day. It was a book I’d intended to finish by the end of my three-week visit with family, but I started reading it on the first day and simply could not stop. Through his writing in Arctic Dreams, Lopez did more to help me develop my thinking about my – our – place on this planet than anything else I’ve read during my sabbatical, and he did so with humility, artistry, and intelligence, and by forwarding his personal experiences against a broad background of scholarly, philsophical, and indigenous knowledges. It was upon finishingArctic Dreams that I fully realized that eschewing some degree of academic rigor in favor of sharing the insights I’ve gleaned through my personal experiences in the wilderness would not be, in fact, a weakness or a failure, but a strength.

Lopez writes elsewhere, in recounting his own personal history, that “I was drawn especially to men and women who had not dissociated themselves from the passionate and spiritual realms of life, people for whom mystery was not a challenge to intelligence but a bosom.” (About This Life 12), and in my reading, my conversations, and my adventures this year, I have found myself drawn to the same. The format of this book is thus a reflection of my desire to treat the mystery of our relationship with the Earth as a bosom for new ways of thinking rather than as a challenge to the intellectual sovereignty of the environmental humanities as an academic field or to my own legitimacy as a scholar working in that field.

To be clear, this book is not an attempt to mimic the inimitable work of Barry Lopez, but instead an attempt to take his example as permission to center my own writing first in the parts of my lived, human experience that I believe connect to and thus allow me to at least gesture at – making shadows on the cave wall – that “something” that lies beyond the just-human.

[sadmachine1190]

A Comprehensive Guide to Growing Potatoes: Tips and Tricks from an Expert Farmer

Expert advice on planting, hilling, and harvesting potatoes for a successful crop

As gardening enthusiasts, we often find ourselves pondering the best time to plant our beloved crops. When it comes to potatoes, the preferred ship date can be a perplexing question. Should we rely on rough frost-date estimates or wait for specific cues from nature?

To shed light on this and other potato-related queries, we turned to Alley Swiss, a certified-organic farmer from Filaree Farm in Okanogan, Washington. With years of experience growing garlic, shallots, and potatoes, Swiss provides valuable insights into the art of potato cultivation.

In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the optimal planting time for potatoes, the process of cutting and callusing seed potatoes, soil preparation techniques, proper depth and spacing for planting, the importance of hilling, and how to determine the right time for harvesting.

When to Plant Potatoes: Nature's Cue and Ideal Soil Temperature

At the earliest, Swiss recommends planting potatoes two to three weeks before the average last frost date. Planting them too early in cold, water-logged soil can cause the seed potatoes to rot. If potatoes experience a heavy frost after emerging, they will produce new shoots, but each subsequent dieback will result in a smaller and later harvest.

Swiss suggests waiting for the soil to warm up slightly before planting, as this allows the potatoes to emerge quickly and grow steadily without stress. In northern states, late March to early May is an ideal planting time, while in warmer areas of the South, potatoes can be planted in late fall or early winter. Local gardeners often have their own points of reference, such as the first dandelions blooming or the emergence of a particular bug, to determine the best time for planting potatoes.

Cutting and Callusing Seed Potatoes for Optimal Yield

When seed potatoes arrive, they may vary in size, with some resembling tennis balls and others as small as eggs. Many gardeners choose to cut larger seed potatoes into pieces to make them go further and increase overall yield. If cutting larger potatoes, it is important to leave at least two "eyes" on each piece.

Use a clean, sharp knife to cut the potato into several large pieces shortly before planting.

Prior to planting, it is advisable to let the cut pieces callus by leaving them in a cool and humid space overnight. This callusing process helps prevent infection from soil contact. However, Swiss mentions that they plant their seed potatoes whole to minimize worm damage.

If pests like wireworms or maggots are a concern, planting whole potatoes is a recommended strategy, as pests are attracted to the exposed flesh of cut potatoes.

Soil Preparation Techniques for Potatoes

The ideal soil for growing potatoes is a loose and deep loam that holds moisture while also draining well. However, potatoes are hardy and can adapt to various soil types. Adding plenty of organic matter is crucial for achieving the best yields.

Swiss recommends incorporating organic matter or compost into the soil in the fall, allowing time for the added nutrients to balance.

When preparing the soil for potatoes, it is important to avoid using fresh manure, as it can activate the pathogen "scab," resulting in unsightly but still edible potatoes. Well-composted manure is a safer option. If composted manure is not available, a well-balanced fertilizer can be used, with an organic 4-2-2 ratio being Swiss's preference.

Excessive nitrogen can delay root production and lead to large plants with minimal potatoes.

Proper Depth and Spacing for Planting Potatoes

To plant potatoes, dig a shallow trench approximately 6-8 inches deep. In loose soil, a rake can be used, while heavier soils may require a shovel or hoe. Place cut potatoes 10-12 inches apart in the trench.

If planting larger potatoes whole, give them a little extra room, spacing them 12-16 inches apart.

A spacing of 36 inches between rows is adequate, but if space allows, further spacing makes hilling easier. Fingerling and small potatoes can be planted closer together, with a minimum spacing of 8 inches between plants. Cover the plants with 3-4 inches of soil, leaving the trench partially filled.

The Importance of Hilling: When, How Deep, and How Often

Hilling is a crucial and labor-intensive task in potato cultivation. When the potato plants reach approximately 8-10 inches in height, bring soil up around the vines from both sides. In loose soils, a rake can be used, while harder soils may require cultivation or the use of a hoe.

It is important to avoid cultivating too closely to the young plants to prevent disturbance of the new root systems. Hilling helps the potatoes form underground by bringing loose soil around the vines and deepening the roots into cooler soil. During the first hilling, Swiss recommends covering the vines so that only the top leaves are exposed.

This allows for a shallower second hilling, which should be done 2-3 weeks later with an additional 2-4 inches of soil brought around the vines.

After the second hilling, a loose mulch such as straw or composted leaf mold can be applied. Mulch helps protect the vines from potato beetles and creates a barrier, while also providing habitat for insects that eat the beetle's larvae. The hilling process culminates in beautifully mounded rows, a sight that brings joy to any gardener.

Harvesting New Potatoes and Determining Crop Maturity

Potatoes begin to produce tubers after flowering. Several weeks after flowering, gently dig into the loose soil at the sides of the vines to find thin-skinned new potatoes. These can be pulled from the plant without harming the development of the remaining potatoes.

Waxier-textured potatoes are best for immediate consumption. For colorful new potatoes, Swiss recommends the variety 'All Red,' which features bright red skin and a pink streak through the flesh. Another early maturing variety with excellent flavor is 'Yukon Gold.'

Potatoes are ready to harvest when their vines die back and lose most of their color. This can occur naturally with a frost or when the potatoes have reached full maturity. Swiss suggests mowing the vines a few weeks before harvest to toughen the skins for better storage.

Potatoes can be left in the ground for several frosts, but it is important to harvest them before the danger of a heavy frost that could damage the spuds closest to the surface.

Growing potatoes successfully requires careful timing and proper techniques. By following the advice of experienced farmers like Alley Swiss, gardeners can ensure a bountiful harvest of delicious spuds. From choosing the right planting time and preparing the soil to understanding the importance of hilling and determining the perfect moment for harvest, every step is crucial in the journey of cultivating these versatile tubers.

So, roll up your sleeves, grab your gardening tools, and embark on a potato-growing adventure that will reward you with a season of homegrown goodness.

[damasaknjigama]

A Comprehensive Guide to Growing Potatoes: Tips and Tricks from an Organic Farmer

Expert advice on when and how to plant, hill, and harvest potatoes for a successful crop

As gardening enthusiasts, we often find ourselves pondering over the best time to plant our beloved seed potatoes. Should we rely on rough frost-date estimates or look for cues in nature? How should we prepare the soil?

And what about hilling and harvesting? In this comprehensive guide, we turn to Alley Swiss of Filaree Farm, a seasoned certified-organic farmer, for expert advice on growing potatoes. With her insights, we'll explore the optimal planting time, cutting and callusing seed potatoes, soil preparation, proper depth and spacing, hilling techniques, and when and how to harvest.

Let's dig in!

When to Plant: Nature's Cue and Soil Temperature

When it comes to planting potatoes, Swiss recommends starting two to three weeks before your average last frost date. Planting too early in cold, water-logged soil can cause seed potatoes to rot. If your potatoes experience a heavy frost after emerging, they will put up new shoots, but each time they die back, the harvest will be smaller and later.

Swiss suggests waiting for the soil to warm up slightly before planting, as this allows the potatoes to emerge quickly and grow steadily without stress. In northern states, late March to early May is an ideal planting time, while in warmer areas of the South, potatoes can be planted in late fall or early winter. Local gardeners often have their own cues, such as the first dandelions blooming or the emergence of a particular bug, so it's worth seeking advice from those in your area.

Cutting and Callusing Seed Potatoes

When seed potatoes arrive, you may find a variety of sizes, from tennis ball-sized to small eggs. Cutting the larger ones can help stretch your seed supply and potentially increase overall yield. If you choose to cut your larger potatoes, make sure to leave at least two "eyes" on each piece.

Use a clean, sharp knife to cut the potatoes into several large pieces shortly before planting. To prevent infection from soil contact, Swiss recommends allowing the cut pieces to callus in a cool and humid space overnight. However, if you're concerned about pests like wireworms or maggots, planting whole potatoes can minimize damage as pests are attracted to the exposed flesh of cut potatoes.

Soil Preparation: Ideal Conditions and Manure Considerations

The ideal soil for growing potatoes is a loose and deep loam that holds moisture while also draining well. However, potatoes are hardy and can adapt to various soil types. Adding plenty of organic matter or compost to the soil in the fall is recommended for the best yields.

When preparing the soil, it's important to avoid using fresh manure as it can activate the pathogen "scab," resulting in unsightly but still edible potatoes. Instead, opt for well-composted manure or a well-balanced fertilizer. Too much nitrogen can delay root production, leading to large plants with fewer potatoes.

Proper Depth and Spacing for Planting

When it's time to plant, dig a shallow trench about 6-8 inches deep. In loose soil, a rake will suffice, while heavier soils may require a shovel or hoe. Place cut potatoes 10-12 inches apart in the trench.

If planting larger potatoes whole, give them a little extra room, spacing them 12-16 inches apart. For rows, a spacing of 36 inches is adequate, but if you have extra space, wider spacing makes hilling easier. Smaller fingerling potatoes can be planted closer, but no less than 8 inches between plants.

Cover the plants with about 3-4 inches of soil, leaving the trench partially filled.

The Art of Hilling: Timing, Depth, and Mulching

Hilling is a crucial step in growing potatoes, although it can be confusing and labor-intensive. When the potato plants reach a height of 8-10 inches, bring soil up around the vines from both sides. In loose soil, a rake is sufficient, while harder soil may require cultivation or the use of a hoe.

Take care not to disturb the new root systems when cultivating near the young plants. Hilling helps the potatoes form underground by providing loose soil and deeper roots in cooler soil. During the first hilling, cover the vines so that only the top leaves are exposed.

This allows for a shallower second hilling, done 2-3 weeks later, with an additional 2-4 inches of soil brought around the vines. After the second hilling, a loose mulch like straw or composted leaf mold can be applied to protect the vines from potato beetles and create a barrier. It's important to ensure the mulch allows the soil to breathe and is not applied too thickly.

Harvesting New Potatoes and Determining Crop Maturity

New potatoes can be harvested a few weeks after the plants have flowered. Gently dig into the loose soil at the sides of the vines, and you should find thin-skinned new potatoes without having to dig too deep. These can be pulled from the plant without harming the development of the remaining potatoes.

Waxier-textured potatoes are best for immediate consumption, with varieties like 'All Red' offering colorful options with bright red skin and a pink streak in the flesh. To determine when the crop is fully mature, wait until the potato vines die back and lose most of their color. This can happen with a frost or simply when the potatoes have reached their full maturity.

Mowing the vines a few weeks before harvest can help toughen the skins for better storage. Potatoes can be left in the ground for several frosts, but it's important to harvest them before the danger of a heavy frost that could damage the potatoes closest to the surface.

With Alley Swiss's expert guidance, growing potatoes becomes a rewarding and successful endeavor. By considering cues from nature, cutting and callusing seed potatoes, preparing the soil with organic matter, planting at the proper depth and spacing, mastering the art of hilling, and harvesting at the right time, gardeners can enjoy a bountiful potato harvest. Whether you're a fan of big bakers or small fingerlings, these tips and tricks will help you cultivate healthy and delicious potatoes in your own garden.

Happy planting!