#fashionessay

[stellvirg]

Illustration in Fashion

Have you ever seen the cover of a vintage Vogue or Harper Bazaar’s and admired the vibrant illustrations that showcased the latest fashion trends during that time? Although they have been gracing some of the first high fashion magazines, such as The Lady’s Magazine and Le Cabinet des Modes, since the 16th century, fashion illustration was not recognized as an art form until the early 20th century.

It all began when the French courtier Paul Poiret was drawn to French illustrator and designer Paul Iribe’s earlier works in the satirical journal Le témoin and requested him to illustrate his designs for a small promotional publication, intended for the elites of good society.

Poiret's second collection of designs, Les Choses de Paul Poiret, was published in 1911 and was illustrated by Georges Lepape, whose work was inspired by the paintings of Amedeo Modigliani and Henri Matisse; expanded stances and figures, opposing Iribe's approach. By 1920, Lepape had demonstrated his artistic approach on a number of other Vogue and Vanity Fair covers.

Because of the increased demand for fashion and the acceleration of trends during this century, Lucien Vogel, the founder of La Gazette du Bon Ton (1912), intended to provide a forum for artists to not only demonstrate their talent but also illustrate for seven haute couture houses; Poiret, Doucet, Paquin, Cheruit, Redfern, Doeuillet, and Poiret, Doucet, Paquin, Cheruit, Redfern, Doeuillet, and Poiret, Doucet, and Worth.

The Beaux Brummells were a group of artists who appeared in the magazine. All eight artists studied at the École nationale supérieure des beaux-arts: Paul Iribe, Jean Besnard, Bernard Boutet de Monvel, Pierre Brissaud, A.E Marty, George Barbier, Charles Martin, and George Lepape. They were grouped together under one movement category, where they gave a realistic depiction of the Leisure Class's daily existence.

Despite the fact that La Gazette du Bon Ton was only published from 1912 to 1925, each issue had varied sketches of the designs, stenciled sheets, and colorful pages printed on handmade paper. Jean Saude used a Japanese technique to stencil these stenciled sheets by hand as well. When World War I broke out, Conde Montrose Nast bought a majority interest in the magazine at the end of its run.

This is where Conde Nast enters the picture, as the home of many of the world's most important brands and publications. Conde Nast, who purchased Vogue in 1909, pioneered a new approach to publishing by presenting avant-garde developments in art, photography, literature, and fashion in relation to their cultural context.

Vogue US featured a more romantic illustration style, which was influenced by painters such as Edmund Dulac, Arthur Rackham, and Alphonse Mucha. After WWI, however, modern art forms such as cubism, expressionism, futurism, and abstract art began to appear on magazine covers, including the French issue of Vogue. As a result, artists like Lepape and Eduardo Garcia Benito disregarded American illustrators like Dryden and Plank in the mid-1920s.

Meanwhile, in the early 1930s, a new art movement known as new realism emerged, which was centered by American illustrator Carl Erickson, who emphasized more natural fluid lines. They redefined the approach of the artistic style for fashion illustration seen on Vogue covers alongside Rene Bouet-Willaumez.

Despite the high demands placed on illustrators throughout this decade, fashion illustration began to fade as photography took over. Edward Steichen's color photography was the first to grace the cover of Vogue, which appeared in 1932. As a result, publishers concluded around the turn of the century that magazine covers with photographs sold better than those with graphics. Even though they continued to try to merge digital and manual creative works, pictures were the primary instrument in the 1950s and beyond.

[2000sandtoday]

How to be vintage and thrifty

How to be vintage and thrifty. #style #fashion #fashionblogger #vintagefashion #essay #fashionessay

I think there’s a misconception within the vintage community that in order to fully embrace an era or style everything must be authentic. As in, from the decade or a replica of. But for some people having the time or money or skills to create something is not an option. The same goes for buying “truly vintage” things. I know that for me when I was a teenager, I was generally shopping JC Penney…

[harvishouse-blog]

Genius behind the Genesis

Who is the genius behind the genesis of fashion week? This essay will explore all four fashion capitals which are; New York, Milan, Paris, and London. There are many people who have influences this ‘trend’ which fashion week has become, and they are; Eleanor Lambert, Charles Frederick, and Ehrich Brothers. These people are only a few of the many that are the genius behind the genesis of fashion week.

History of How Fashion Week Started:

The beginning of showcasing fashion was done with Charles Frederick in the 1800s. He was known as the father of Haute Couture (Charles Frederick Worth, 2018). Frederick introduced the use of life models rather than using mannequins to display his work. Paul Poiret worked with Frederick and in 1903 started to design his own clothing. Later on, in Poiret career he was the first to use Russian ballet to create theatrical design which influenced his way of showcasing his work (Paul Poiret, 2013). Poiret’s most legendary event was called “Thousand and Second Night”, he transformed spaces and made catwalks that are interactive (Idacavage, 2018). Another designer called Lucile, also known as Lady Duff-Gordon, was known using her clientele to organise social events (Evans, 2001).

In the 19th century the rise of fashion and capitalism was increasing. A department stop called Ehrich Brothers in New York City put on the first fashion show in America (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). Many European couture houses had fixed dates for two fashion shows or events a year put into a calendar in 1918, this is what is known as “fashion week” today (Idacavage, 2018). By the flapper period (1920s) shows had become a ‘must-see’ and many department stores and hotels held them. After the 20s fashion declined because of The Great Depression. It wasn't till the 1940s when fashion became popular again, especially in America. Fashion week had a different name which was “Press Week” (All Art Schools, 2018). On the other hand, in Europe, a large number of fashion salons were forced to shutdown, due to World War Two.

I am New York:

Eleanor Lambert was a fashion publicist in 1943 and had the idea of grouping all fashion designer shows together at a particular time, but no place has been found to hold them (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). In the 60s the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) was founded by Eleanor Lambert, which allowed her to bring designers together and put them in the spotlight for US fashion (Cfda.com, 2018). When the 70s began, the Council of Fashion Designers of America became the CFDA Foundation, and at the same time, Oscar de la Renta was elected president of the CFDA (Cfda.com, 2018). In the mid 80s CFDA became an office and hired it’s first staff member. It was not until 1990 that the CFDA started to use “7th on Sixth” as the fashion week home. This was decided by Fern Mallis, at the time she was the Executive Director of CFDA and founded the event management company called “7th on Sixth” (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). In 1993 New York fashion week moves to Bryant Park due to the demand to attend the shows. Ralph Lauren and the CFDA did a collar ration to raise money for breast cancer in 1994. A scholarship program was created in 1996 for the CFDA. It was not till 2003 when the CFDA Founder, Eleanor Lambert, died at age 100. In 2010 New York fashion week moves agin to the Lincoln Centre as the ‘hype’ of going to the shows become more popular with the advances of technology. The fashion calendar was not acquired until 2014 (Cfda.com, 2018). It wasn’t till 2015 when the CFDA launched New York Fashion Week Menswear.

I am Paris:

Paris fashion week (PFW) started in 1945 and had two fashion weeks; one was haute couture shows, the other was prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) shows. This was very different to the other fashion capitals. Haute couture shows were organised by the Chamber Syndicale de la Haute Couture and could present both daywear and evening wear (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). The Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode was built on October 8th 1973 and so was the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine (Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, 2018). In 1973 Paris fashion week is held at the Carrousel du Louvre. As there are three Chambres Syndicales it led to the creation of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. On June 29th 2017 it became the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) (Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, 2018).

I am Milan:

Milan fashion week (MFW) started in 1958 and is actually called “settimana della mode”. MFW is organised by the National Chamber of Italian Fashion (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). It was set up in the Grand Hotel, Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando 3, Rome were the Association’s Head Office was established (Italiana, 2018). The Camera Sindacale della Moda is a non-political and non-profit organisation which has set up the following divisions; Haute Couture for Women, Women’s Sports’ Clothing, Haute Couture for Men, Haute Couture (female and male), Fashion Accessories, Milliners, and Furriers. The first President was Giovanni Battista Giorgini. In the early 60s Camera della Moda was created by The Centre of Haute Couture in Rome (The Centro Romano Alta Moda) which has reflected the same aims and structure (Italiana, 2018). The main function of this organisation was to regulate all the fashion houses events and co-ordinate them.

I am London:

London fashion week was founded in 1984 and this is were the term “Fashion Week�� begun (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). Fashion week in London was originally organised by British Fashion Council (BFC) which is a corporation that does not do it for a profit. The BFC has five elements to help drive fashion week forward, they are; education, digital, business, investments, and reputation (Britishfashioncouncil.co.uk, 2018). In 2010, London fashion week (LFW) was the first to live stream a show and is held at Somerset House (All Art Schools, 2018).

I am Miami

Miami fashion week (MIAFW) is not one of the big four but the history behind it is very interesting as it started in 1989 and then was discontinued in 1998. It has only recently been restored in 2005 and tend to highlight swimwear fashion (All Art Schools, 2018). The first fashion week was dedicated to showcasing Resort Cruise Collections while focusing on reflection to a broader audience through quality garments. MIAFW takes benefits of the strong and multicultural connection between Latin America and the US. MIAFW also encourages the additional ethos of Miami's ever-growing population of artists and designers (Miamifashionweek.com, 2018).

New York fashion week are still grouped together but have independent shows like Alexander Wang or IMG, not just CFDA shows. This makes fashion week a lot more busy and shows have to be shorter (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). London fashion weeks on the other hand is still held by the British Fashion Council, whilst, Milan fashion week shows are produced by the Chamber of Italian Fashion. Milan fashion week has independent shows for there larger named brands like Dolce & Gabbana. Paris fashion week are controlled by the French Fashion Federation, but again the also have independent shows.

Fashion week has had many different geniuses and have come from many genesises. Now all fashion weeks are on a global scale due to technology, especially social media, this means that all shows need about 200,000 gist bags for the VIP guests and press. Not only gift bags have become a huge part of fashion weeks now you get after parties which mean a lot of alcohol. This can be around 240 bottle of Moët Champagne after each show. Is it for the designers? Or is it for Instagram? This is a question that gets asked a lot when many events get popular, but it is true fashion week has become a place were you can find celebrity children on the front rows and reality stars pushed in front of the journalists.

In conclusion, many people and organisations are the genius behind fashion week and have helped it grow to this amazing spectacular that everyone wants to see. The big four fashion capitals are world renowned for there fashion weeks and has made is a place where a ‘somebody’ can attend. 

References

All Art Schools. (2018). Fashion Week History and Calendar | All Art Schools. [online] Available at: https://www.allartschools.com/fashion-design/fashion-week/ [Accessed 12 Mar. 2018].

Britishfashioncouncil.co.uk. (2018). British Fashion Council - About the BFC. [online] Available at: http://www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/About/About-the-BFC [Accessed 12 Mar. 2018].

Cfda.com. (2018). [online] Available at: https://cfda.com/about-cfda/history [Accessed 14 Mar. 2018].

Charles Frederick Worth. (2018). In: Encyclopaedia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc.

Christina Kelly Discusses the History of Technology in Fashion Week. (2015). PR Newswire.

Eleanor Lambert. (2003). In: Encyclopaedia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica, inc.

Evans, Caroline. “The Enchanted Spectacle.” Fashion Theory, 5:3 (2001): 271-310.

Fashion Week Online®. (2018). History of Fashion Week | Fashion Week Online®. [online] Available at: http://fashionweekonline.com/history-of-fashion-week [Accessed 11 Mar. 2018].

Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. (2018). Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode - Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. [online] Available at: https://fhcm.paris/en/the-federation/ [Accessed 12 Mar. 2018].

Idacavage, S. (2018). Fashion History Lesson: The Evolution of Runway Shows. [online] Fashionista. Available at: https://fashionista.com/2016/09/fashion-week-history [Accessed 15 Mar. 2018].

Italiana, C. (2018). Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana | Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. [online] Cameramoda.it. Available at: https://www.cameramoda.it/en/associazione/cosa-e-la-cnmi/ [Accessed 13 Mar. 2018].

Major, J. and Steele, V. (2017). Fashion industry. In: Encyclopædia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica, inc.

Miamifashionweek.com. (2018). Miami Fashion Week - 2018. [online] Available at: https://miamifashionweek.com/about [Accessed 16 Mar. 2018].

Paul Poiret. (2013). In: Encyclopaedia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc.

Image References

BFC Logo - http://www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/business-support-awards/NEWGEN

Charles Dana Gibson/Library of Congress - https://fashionista.com/2016/09/fashion-week-history

Clipping from the Indian Valley Register of February 1951 - fashionweekonline.com/history-of-fashion-week

Eleanor Lamber CFDA Founder - https://cfda.com/about-cfda/history Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode logo - https://fhcm.paris/en/the-federation/

Miami Fashion Week Logo - https://miamifashionweek.com/

[e-lou-m]

This shit of an essay and journal took me long enough! But finally its home time :) #fashionessay #models #work

[stellvirg]

ABout: Helmut Lang

The Beginning.

Helmut Lang is credited with being one of the first designers to introduce utilitarian minimalism on the runway in the 1980s. Lang, who was born in Austria and raised in Vienna, began his career as an aspiring artist and trade student before launching his first made-to-measure studio in 1977 and a boutique in 1979 in Vienna, where he designed T-shirts and jackets.

After gaining a following in Austria, he displayed his work as an exhibition titled "l'Apocalypse Joyeuse" at the Centre Pompidou in 1986. In the same year, he then created and established his label "Helmut Lang" in Paris.

The Label & Designs

Because of his simple yet detailed designs on essential clothing, Lang's fashion brand has grown in popularity since his first collection. The Men's and Women's collections, both of which were shown on the same runway, were the label's staple. Furthermore, between 1990 and 2000, the Helmut Lang brand expanded to include underwear, jeans, footwear/accessories, and fragrances.

Lang elevated street wear to high fashion through his namesake line. He was the first to create "designer denim," as well as garments made from bulletproof vests and military bomber jackets made out of high technical fabrics. Lang was also known for utilising parachutes and bondage gear-inspired straps and harnesses to achieve an edgy image that was sensual enough without exposing skin. In his garments, he uses a variety of fabrics, including silk, nylon, metallic textiles, coloured leathers, holographic fabrics, thermal fabrics, latex-bounded lace, and much more.

After relocating to New York in 1998, the brand gained even more international recognition in the fashion world. Helmut Lang is known for numerous things, including being the first in the fashion industry to place advertisements on NYC taxicabs, hosting the first online fashion show, opening a concept store, and even moving New York Fashion Week ahead of the other European shows.

Partnership with Prada

Prada, a Milan-based fashion house, bought 51 percent of Lang's company in 1999, and the remaining 49 percent in 2004, just before Helmut Lang stood down from his namesake label.

However, Lang's aesthetic vision and the Prada Group's economic ambitions clashed as a result of this multi-brand approach. Prada was supposed to give the label financial security while sustaining the company's and designer's aesthetic progress, according to Lang's understanding. Prada Group, on the other hand, believes that Lang's independence for the brand will delay business decisions.

Prada later chose to close the license company that produced the best-selling Helmut Lang Jeans, which were sold in over 700 stores across the world. Helmut Lang was tasked with creating a "it" bag, that clearly did not come through. Sales of the brand dropped from over $100 million in 1999 to $37 million in 2003. Lang retired from the fashion scene in 2005.

What's Next?

Helmut Lang has been designed by a number of other designers since Lang's retirement from the business. Michael and Nicole Colovos were named the brand's creative directors in May 2006. They re-launched the Helmut Lang website with a contemporary sportswear collection for S/S 2007. In 2017, Helmut Lang launched 'The Helmut Lang Re-Edition,' with Isabella Burley, editor of Dazed & Confused magazine, as editor-in-residence.

On the other side, Helmut Lang has been concentrating on his work as a fine artist. Jenny Holzer and Louise Bourgeois are among the artists with whom Lang has collaborated. Lang's most recent paintings focus on abstract sculptural human body forms.On the other side, Helmut Lang has been concentrating on his work as a fine artist. Jenny Holzer and Louise Bourgeois are among the artists with whom Lang has collaborated. Lang's most recent paintings focus on abstract sculptural human body forms.

[stellvirg]

Comme des Garçons S/S 97 "Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body - and Became One"

Rei Kawakubo emphasizes the relationship between body and dress in Comme des Garçons' spring/summer 1997 "Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body - and Became One" collection. Critics have dubbed this collection "lumps and bumps," as it comprises dresses in bright colors and gingham patterns turned into frightening silhouettes with swells of padding deliberately inserted beneath the fabric. Padding may be asymmetrically swept over the body, bubble out of the bottom, or protrude from the back. The gowns appear to be about to burst apart due to the pressure of the protrusions in some looks, while padding resembling organs can be seen through diaphanous fabrics in others.

[stellvirg]

Little Black Dress

By definition, the Little Black Dress also commonly known as the LBD is a black evening or cocktail dress cut simply and often quite short. The simple yet elegant-looking dress that could elevate your style instantly with an additional touch of accessories has been the most classic and timeless piece ever in the fashion world.

Despite the fact that the LBD has been around before the 20th century it was not until in the late '20s when Vogue declared that Coco Chanel's black, long-sleeved, silk crepe sheath as the LBD of record, claiming that it will become the uniform for all women. However, black dresses were originally worn for mourning dating back to the 15th century, as seen by the Spanish aristocrats and wealthy Dutch merchants. The color black connoted refinement, wealth, and social status due to its expense on producing with natural dyes. By the early 19th century, with the advent of less costly synthetic dyes made from logwood and ferrous sulfate, it became more widely available across classes.

Ever since it rose to popularity, throughout the late 1920s and early 1930s, another french fashion designer such as Jean Patou and British fashion designer Edward Molyneux was also credited for bringing the LBD into style. When we hear Little Black Dress's name, we might think of Holly Golightly played by Audrey Hepburn stylishly standing in front of Tiffany's wearing the infamous Little Black Dress designed by Hubert de Givenchy in 1961. Later on, we would also see another groundbreaking LBD from Guy Laroche opting for a bottom-skimming and back exposing alternative in the film The Tall Blond Man with One Black Shoe.

The LBD evolution doesn't just stop there, throughout the 20th century we the LBD was designed in different ways while maintaining its silhouette. It is indeed a versatile black canvas that could be altered into anything; seductive, casual, sophisticated, conservative, etc.

[harvishouse-blog]

The History of Fashion Week

The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture

      Eleanor Lambert curator of CFDA

Early modern New York Fashion Week show

New York Fashion Week

Home of the original Fashion Week, which was founded in 1943

The first of the “big four” Fashion Weeks held every February and September

Outgrew “the tents” of Manhattan’s Bryant Park and moved to the Lincoln Center for Performing Arts in 2010

London Fashion Week

Founded in 1984

Organized by the British Fashion Council

Immediately follows New York Fashion Week

Held in Somerset House

First major show to live stream the event

Introduced men’s collections in 2012

With more than 5,000 press and buyers in attendance, exceeds coverage of most major news and worldwide sports events

Milan Fashion Week

Founded in 1958

Organized by the National Chamber for Italian Fashion

Immediately follows London Fashion Week

Exhibiting designers have included luxury Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Versace, and Prada

Paris Fashion Week

Founded in 1973

Organized by the French Fashion Federation

Hosts the finale of the “big four” Fashion Weeks

Held in Carrousel du Louvre

Showcases the major designers’ collections, including top French designers Chanel, Givenchy and Christian Dior

Previews haute couture, which is only allowed to be shown in Paris, earlier in the year and exhibits ready-to-wear collections during Fashion Week

Miami Fashion Week

Founded in 1989; discontinued in 1998 and restored in 2005

Traditionally held in July before the “big four” however, this year it will be held in April

Highlights trends in swimwear fashion

Promotes international swimwear brands from all parts of the world

[harvishouse-blog]

Faux or Real - How do you know?!

The label in this £26.99 hat says "mixed wool" but lab tests pointed to real fur, most consistent with a fox. This £15 scarf is described as 100% viscose on the label but testing suggested the pom poms were rabbit fur.

The raccoon fur bobble hat.

This £30 jumper, made of 80% viscose and 20% elastane according to the label, is adorned with minks pom-poms, laboratory tests suggest from HSI.

Pompoms are everywhere, how do you know if the fur is real or faux. You can find them on hats, scarves, bags, and keyrings. Most of the embellishments say they are faux fur but they have been tested by a charity organisation called, Humane Society International (HSI), and they have found it to be real fur. 

Fur farming in the UK has been banned since 2003 but it is not illegal to wear or buy real fur. Many people do not purchase real fur due to ethical reasons. Since the ban on fur farms, the UK has imported approximately £650m of fur.

The director of the Humane Society International, Claire Bass says "Consumers are being duped into buying real animal fur." and she adds "Fur is tragically so cheap. It can be produced for the same or less than the cost of fake fur." The UK wants to see 100% accurate labeling and descriptions on products, and a ban on all fur imports. 

How to spot the difference...

Faux:

If it's fake, you will see the fur webbing. 

If you burn faux fur it will melt like plastic.

Real:

If it's real, it will attach to the skin.

If you burn real fur it will singe and smell.

Missguided was horrified when customers told them that lab results for a pair of shoes contained cat fur. ASOS and House of Fraser have also been proven to be selling real fur as faux fur.

Overall, many brands are looking at becoming fur-free. Versace and Gucci are two brands that have decided to use faux fur in all products.

Relatable Sources:

https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/shortcuts/2018/jan/24/how-to-tell-if-faux-fur-is-actually-real

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-38302019

http://www.independent.co.uk/voices/faux-fur-trade-uk-high-street-animal-rights-slaughter-uk-government-must-stop-a8073251.html

[harvishouse-blog]

When will ‘Fast Fashion’ end!?

Dear Society, 

As a concerned citizen, I am writing this letter to the people who will listen and make a change. 

Over many years, we have been seeing on the news that sweatshops and brands are being exposed to the horrific working conditions for people like me and you who want the next big trend. I remember watching on the BBC a documentary called Panorama, Primark: On the Rack in 2008. It was about how they used child labor and paid around 60p a day. It showed the horrific conditions of workers and how they are exposed to harsh chemicals. Buying products from Primark endorse this harsh labor or a better term is slavery which should have been abolished. 

On Netflix, there is a great documentary called The True Cost which was made in 2015 and it asks the question every company should ask themselves. How much is the truth? If we are producing genetically modified cotton and the chemicals are leading to Cancer, metal and physical illness, and putting the farmers into debt. We need to ask how much the cost is to fix our consumptions for this mass production of cotton and fees for the labors work which has led to illness for the farmers. We need to look at ourselves in the mirror and change the way we are consuming products. The fashion calendar uses to be very small as it would be about 2-4 collections a year, now, we are looking at about 52 collections. 

This needs to change. 

WE CAN CHANGE THIS!

As a customer, we have the power to ask staff in the store if garments are ethically sourced. We are the ones keeping the industry afloat as if we don't buy into these brands they will need to look into why. I am asking anyone to not endorse a trend because everyone has it but to choose wisely on what you would like to wear. Bringing this issue into the public eye is the only way a  change is made to the system that allows companies to use sweatshops. We have to power to change this and it starts with looking at where the product is manufactured and how it is done. The more we push businesses that produce fast fashion the more they will do to change their programmes and manufacturing. 

IT STARTS WITH US!

[harvishouse-blog]

Fashion Illustration is Art

GEORGES LEPAPE Fashions of Tomorrow 1911 

BENITO Afternoon Dress by Paul Poiret 1922

SALVADOR DALÍ I Dream About an Evening Dress 1937 

RENÉ GRUAU Panther Paw 1949

TONY VIRAMONTES Valentino Haute Couture 1984 

JOE EULA Knitwear by Missoni 1985 

MICHAEL ROBERTS Azzedine’s Sphinx 1991 

FRANÇOIS BERTHOUD Woman with Hat 1993 

JEAN-PHILIPPE DELHOMME Modes de Vie 1993

MATS GUSTAFSON Yohji Yamamoto Silhouette 1997 

All Photo credits go to

https://www.artspace.com/magazine/art_101/book_report/phaidon-fashion-book-fashion-illustrators-53980

[harvishouse-blog]

What is Haute Couture?

Picture Source: http://platea-magazine.com/progress/ecole-de-la-chambre-syndicale-paris/

Haute Couture is the most misused term in fashion and means ‘high dressmaking’. These are created as one-off pieces for special clients. Many of us think that Haute Couture applies to all handmade and made-to-order garments from a house like Dior. This is wrong. Fashion houses do falsely say that collections are ‘Haute Couture’, even though they should use a term properly as being in the industry.  

So you are thinking, what is Haute Couture then?  

Well, it is:

Design made-to-order for a private client with more than one fittings.

They must have a workshop in Paris which has at least 15 full-time staff.

Every season in January and July a collection is presented in Paris which has 35 runs/exists both daytime and evening wear.  

Many fashion houses do meet this criterion and each year by the Paris Chamber of Commerce they become members of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. However, even the most prestigious fashion houses are split into a hierarchy. Here is the way the hierarchy is broken down.

‘Official’ which are French fashion houses such as Chanel and Dior. 

‘Correspondent’ mostly foreign brands like Armani and Valentino

‘Guest’ is new talents.

‘Jewellery’ and ‘accessories’.  

To sum up my finding, Haute Couture is now a huge elite syndicate and fashion houses are only allowed to call anything haute couture if credited by the French Ministry of Industry (Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture). 

The members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture can be found here: https://fhcm.paris/en/members/

Picture Source: https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/companies/ecole-de-la-chambre-syndicale-de-la-couture-parisienne

[harvishouse-blog]

What’s the difference?

Fashion influencers, bloggers, and editors are the new fashion leaders, but what are the differences? Before it was just editors, fashion journalists, designers, and photographers. Now you don't know what to follow.

Blogger

The easiest way to describe a blogger is that they are someone who is known for their website or blog. The blogs can be written or photo-based. 

The reason why bloggers are very popular is that you get a point of view and the unique way when they present and document fashion. The most successful blogs are the ones that earn revenue from advertising, campaigns, and brand projects. The rise of Instagram blogs has made it very competitive to become a triumphant blogger. 

Influencers

They don't have blogs of their own outside of social media platforms. Influencers are also known as 'it girls'. Fashion shows, design dinners, and fashion parties are some of the things influencers get paid to do. Brands will pay them to wear their clothing.

Instagram charges typically £2,000 and £5,000 per post but depending on the number of followers they can get up to £30,000. Legally they need to mark the posts with hashtags or say it is sponsored.

Both bloggers and influencers can become brands in their own right, launching their own fashion and accessories collection. 

Editors

They deliver a vision of the fashion industry according to tone and viewpoint of the magazine they work for.

Editors can also style shoots, write features about many trends or influential fashion people. They also write editorial letters of each magazine issue. 

Fashion editors are tied to one publication and work exclusively for them. 

Overall influencers, bloggers, and editors now share the front row together and dictate new fashion trends. As the industry is changing you can now see a blurred line between many fashion industry workers.