#draft containment breech

[cy-lindric]

Hi! I love your historical pants. Did you use an existing pattern, or did you draft your own? And if so... Do you sell patterns at all? I'd love to make myself a pair but I haven't learned enough to make my own patterns yet

Hello ! I got this question a lot so I hope you won't mind if I use it as a springboard to make a general public reply about it ! For reference, I started sewing a year and a half ago. I don't have any formal training and started from zero, so I kind of just rely on enthusiasm and trial and error.

For most of my projects, I use a mix of patterns and draping. I mostly do men's clothing and the patterns I find don't always match my body type exactly, so I rarely get to use them as is. I'm fairly tall and narrow so usually the smaller men's sizes are a good base, but not all patterns include sizes small enough, and there's still much to fix for me in terms of chest length, leg length, thighs, etc. That'll be something to keep in mind if you're smaller or more hourglass shaped for instance.

For the fall front trousers, it was kind of an impulse project, so I didn't work from a book and I bought a pdf pattern from Laughing Moon Mercantile. It was very useful to construct the front, which is quite complex by my second-year-of-sewing standards, but it only came in fairly big sizes so there was a lot of alterations to do pretty much everywhere else. Also worth noting is that the pdf is made for an A0 format, and although you can print it at home on a mosaic of A4 paper using Acrobat, it's impossible to select which "tile" section of the A0 page you want to print. The pdf pattern contains many options and printing everything to get just the pieces I needed was just too wasteful to do. Instead, I printed only the pattern pieces from the first page, and drafted/copied the missing pieces from other pages myself directly on pattern paper. If you're willing to go through the printing and resizing hassle, it's a great pattern with very clear and exhaustive informations on construction and options for both historical and modern notions.

I picked that one because I wanted to do trousers specifically and it matched my needs best with many options to potentially combine, but if you're looking to do shorter breeches or just want to use it for the fall front, patterns are fairly easy to find on etsy or elsewhere. I like Reconstructing History because their smallest men's size works great for me and they cover a huge range of eras and styles. Unfortunately the instructions don't contain as many diagrams and are sometimes a bit more difficult to follow. I almost never buy paper patterns so I can't recommend any. When it comes to actual historical garments that aren't like, halloween costumes, I find it very difficult to encounter paper patterns and I only find what I'm looking for in books or pdf patterns. I find that both is best where you're a beginner ; the book gives great insight, and the pdf is a good base to work off. I'm still fairly new so I only have a few books (some of them physical, a lot of them pdfs, because they're expensive and sometimes out of print) but they're great classics and they help me a lot :

The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900 by Nora Waugh 17th Century Men's Dress Patterns by Braun, Costiglio, North, Thornton and Tiramani The Medieval Tailor's Assistant: Common Garments 1100-1480 by Sarah Thursfield Patterns of Fashion - Books 3 and 4 by Janet Arnold

Sorry this was so long ! If you're a beginner reading this, keep in mind I just threw myself at this with no prior experience quite recently and I'm having a lot of fun so go for it and don't be afraid to make mistakes and start over ! Good luck :)

[humanfist]

While serving time at the Caledonia State Prison Farm in Halifax County, North Carolina, Williams related that the superintendent, H.T. Peoples, noted his mechanical aptitude and allowed him access to the prison's machine shop, where he demonstrated a knack for fashioning his own tools the shop lacked. He began servicing the weapons used by the guards at the prison. His skills in the machine shop permitted him to stay ahead of his assignments and allowed him time to develop his ideas for self-loading firearms. He would save paper and pencils and stay up late at night drawing plans for various firearms. His mother sent him a drafting set and technical data on guns and eventually provided him with patent attorney contacts, who were unable to help him as long as he was incarcerated. Williams designed and built four semi-automatic rifles while in prison. All four used the high-pressure gas within the breech as a cartridge was fired to operate their semi-automatic actions. The means used to accomplish this was a floating chamber containing the cartridge that channeled the gas at the front of the chamber to force the floating chamber backwards into the bolt with sufficient energy to operate the action. Rearward movement of the chamber was limited to a short stroke to impact the bolt face, in effect making the floating chamber a short-stroke gas piston. All four rifles are part of the permanent David Marshall Williams display in the North Carolina Museum of History.

-Wikipedia

You really could just do whatever back then.

[whennnow]

"Put On Thy Beautiful Garments" Book Review

November 15, 2018

[Image ID: A photo of the title page of a book titled "Put On Thy Beautiful Garments: Rural New England Clothing 1783-1800." The page is blue and has a sepia illustration on a cream background.]

A month or two ago I was in the midst of a Pinterest research trip, when one of the blogs I was reading mentioned a book I hadn't encountered in my research before: "Put on Thy Beautiful Garments" by Merideth Wright. I did a bit more digging (with the intention of adding it to my Christmas list), and found an old library copy for less than $10! So I went ahead and ordered it. Unfortunately, I mixed up my shipping and billing addresses, so it got sent to my house instead of my dorm, and I had to wait a long time before I actually saw it.

There seem to be two versions of the book - one published in January of 1990 by Clothes Press with the title "Put on Thy Beautiful Garments: Rural New England Clothing 1783-1800" and the other published by Dover Publications in December of 1992 with the title "Everyday Dress of Rural America 1783-1800: With Instructions and Patterns." Both have the same cover illustration (done by Nancy Rexford), but I am unsure of the content differences between the two. So to keep from confusing anyone, including myself, I am reviewing the one from 1990, "Put on Thy Beautiful Garments."

The book is divided into five sections. Part 1, “What People Wore,” goes into some background, providing general information, research, and instructions for using the book to make the clothes it contains. Part 2 is “The Individual Garments,” and it looks at each article of clothing individually and discusses who would wear it when, fabric choices, and construction, as well as providing simple, scaled down patterns. It is divided into “Women’s Clothing” and “Men’s Clothing.” Part 3 goes more in detail about fabric and gives instructions on hand sewing techniques. Part 4 is a collection of places you can buy patterns, fabric, and notions, as well as places you can look for more historical information. Part 5 is a very thorough bibliography.

I found the book to be incredibly educational, particularly the section on period-appropriate sewing techniques. Also interesting was the inclusion of clothing worn by the Western Abenaki people! While it doesn’t give instructions or patterns for their clothes, it does talk in depth about what they wore, what it was made of, how it was worn, and how trading with the settlers impacted their wardrobes. I’m actually very glad it doesn’t include instructions on making their clothing, as that would feel appropriative. “It’s a culture, not a costume,” after all.

Having been published in the very early 90s, some parts are a bit dated. For example, in the section on women’s stays, it talks about using cardboard or roller blinds as boning. It makes me very glad that synthetic whalebone exists now, and that the internet makes it widely accessible. Also dating things a bit is the resource section - it talks bout mail ordering and ordering from catalogs. I haven’t had a chance to look into all of the resources listed yet (maybe keep an eye out for a follow-up post?), so I’m not sure if that section is terribly useful.

The patterns start at the innermost layer and work their way out. The women’s section starts with a shift, then stays, pockets and petticoats, three types of gowns (open and round gowns, shortgowns, and chemise gowns), a neckerchief, and an apron, followed by a bit on hair and headwear. The men’s section is arranged similarly, starting with the shirt, then the cravat, breeches, waistcoat, coat, and frock, followed by a hair and headwear section. There are also short sections on stockings and shoes. Patterns or drafting instructions are given for everything except the headwear. The patterns are drawn on grids where each square is an inch, allowing easy drafting and sizing. Instructions are straightforward, often referencing what type of stitch or finish would be used.

I can’t think of anything that disappoints me about this book, honestly. I’m thrilled about the section about sewing techniques and I can’t wait to dig into the Resources and Bibliographies to see what gems are still accessible!

With any luck, I’ll be back before Christmas with a follow-up post!

Stay warm, stay safe, stay dry.

[sofiadragon]

I add that this is an ongoing and constant effort. Any sighting of magical creatures, people, items, or spells is contained by the various branches of the ministry. Indeed much of what the ministry does as far as Harry (and thus the reader) is aware is this containment. Muggles have their memories modified, spells to repel them are cast (wards that enchant buildings to look differently or to compell muggles to remember an urgent task they must go elsewhere to do,) and enchanted items are collected before they can breech containment. Mr. Weasley does this as his job, and he is only a small sliver of the workforce protecting this boundary.

We can build off that in fanfiction to create some very lovely worldbuilding with rock solid canon basis. I really ought to dig up that old draft for the squib-run section of the muggle law enforcement and child services department I wrote...

Since the statute of secrecy is relatively recent, do you think wizards did something to make Muggles forget about their existence after they went into hiding or did the memory fade over time / get dismissed as myth?

I definitely think they did. In Deathly Hallows, Hermione reads out to Harry from A History of Magic that wizards flocked together to the same villages and that the local muggles were often Confunded once the Statute of Secrecy was enacted:

“Upon the signature of the International Statute of Secrecy in 1689, wizards went into hiding for good. It was natural, perhaps, that they formed their own small communities within a community. Many small villages and hamlets attracted several magical families, who banded together for mutual support and protection. The villages of Tinworthin Cornwald, Upper Flagley in Yorkshire, and Ottery St. Catchpole on the south coast of England were notable homes to knots of Wizarding families who lived alongside tolerant and sometimes Confunded Muggles. Most celebrated of these half magical dwelling places is, perhaps, Godric’s Hollow, the West Country village where the great wizard Godric Gryffindor was born, and where Bowman Wright, Wizarding smith, forged the first Golden Snitch. The graveyard is full of the names of ancient magical families, and this accounts, no doubt for the stories of haunting’s that have dogged the little church beside it for many centuries.”

(I want to note about the date the Statute of Secrecy was signed in 1689 but only actually went into effect in 1692)

It's likely some were obliviated, some were Confunded, probably not erasing the existence of the wizards entirely, but twisting it enough so it becomes legend rather than fact. Since believing in witchcraft was seen as heresy by the church, people would've also been encouraged by them to not believe in witches and wizards. Add to that the Enlightenment movement that was already around by that time and muggles moving away from believing in magic to believing in science, making all these old stories of witches and wizards look like old superstition. It's not like all muggles knew magic was real and that wizards existed, so to many, wizards already were some old stories. Over time, the stories would be twisted to remain as myths and legends not dissimilar to what we have irl — tales of magic in folklore that no one really believes.

So it was basically a mix of all of the above working together to over time, erase the existence of wizards from muggle memory.

[whump-me-home]

cw tag list

you may be thinking, "Keter, why aren't these tagged like they normally are in the whump community??" Well reader, that's a great question. with Tumblr seeming to crack down on "allowed" words in tags, I don't want to take any chances. plus it's a more fun way for me to make sure my followers feel safe on my blog. happy whumping, everyone, and make sure 2 ask if you'd like something to be tagged as a content warning!! (within reason)

excessive violence will be tagged as:

cw: seeing red

general NSFW will be tagged as:

cw: down and dirty

n0nc0n in any form will be tagged as:

cw: dead dove

[kybernecklace]

there needs to be some kind of parental lock where if i try to make a post about obiwan around midnight it goes straight to drafts. i can usually catch myself but sometimes we have containment breeches such as. that one post

[phinnsyreads]

[Content Warning: miscarriage, obstetrical body horror.]

===

Item #: SCP-051

Object Class: Safe

Special Containment Procedures: SCP-051 and SCP-051-A are to be kept in a sealed containment facility. SCP-051-A is kept within a locked, climate-controlled document box with a viewing window, to prevent degradation of its material. Any personnel (with the exception of pregnant or non-sterile female personnel, who might not be aware of an early-stage pregnancy) may access SCP-051 as long as a request is placed before-hand and cleared by site administration.

Description: SCP-051 is a 25 cm (10 in) anatomically correct model of a human female, carved out of ivory, with typically East Asian features. Microscopic analysis shows that the head hair is human hair. The doll is jointed at the shoulders, hips, and knees. The 'stomach' area of the doll is fully removable as a 'cap' of ivory, exposing a detailed ribcage and organs, and a 2.5 cm (1 in) ivory fetus connected to the main figure by a leather cord umbilicus.

When brought into the presence of a pregnant human female, SCP-051 has various deleterious effects upon the pregnancy, generally resulting in miscarriage of the fetus. Reports include a gentle compulsion to handle the model, open its stomach cap and take out the fetus. This results in nausea and cramping within 5 minutes, vaginal bleeding that begins as spotting and may progress to hemorrhage within the next half-hour, and miscarriage within 2 - 24 hours in most recorded cases. Medical records indicate that the aborted fetuses bear moderate to severe defects. Pregnancies carried to term after exposure to the model have resulted in severely deformed live births, including ██ deaths of the mothers and ██ infants terminated after birth by the delivering physician (see Interview 051-1 below). Witnesses to these live births showed signs of severe emotional trauma that was alleviated, after Foundation interviews, by administration of a Class A amnestic.

SCP-051-A is a fragment of text on rice paper that was discovered with SCP-051. The surviving text is written with plant-derived ink test-dated to the 12th century, and the characters have been identified as a known early dialect of Japanese. Translation reveals the text is part of a prayer or spell against 'demons' that attack unborn babies. The incantation orders these forces or demons into the model, instead of a pregnant woman, and claims to trap them there. However, centuries have degraded the paper and ink so that the full incantation and instructions, if any, cannot be deciphered.

Addendum: SCP-051 and SCP-051-A were discovered in a box of early Japanese artifacts delivered anonymously to the ██████████ Museum in 1938. After 60 years and a number of incidents resulting from contact by female secretaries, researchers, and students, an Agent on staff in the museum's archives learned of its properties and obtained it for Foundation study.

---

Interview 051-1

Interviewed: Dr. David Ehrenfeld

Interviewer: Agent ███████

Foreword: Dr. Ehrenfeld was the attending physician at the death of Martha R███, ███████████ museum, 02 January 1942. This interview was conducted off-site as Dr. Ehrenfeld was a resident of ███ █████ nursing facility; at the time of interview he was 95 years old and physically infirm, though retaining most of his mental faculties. A class "A" amnestic was administered after the interview.

<Begin Log, October ██ 20██>

Interviewer: Thank you for seeing me, doctor.

Dr. Ehrenfeld: You are welcome. I have outlived most people who would care to hear such stories. Then again, they surely would have thought I was telling lies, or slipping into dementia. Now, you may think the same, but at my age, I do not care [thin laughter].

Interviewer: Can you tell me what you remember of the events of January second, 1942?

Dr. Ehrenfeld: It was…an ugly day. Cold and ugly. ██████ can be a wonderful city sometimes, but winter is a bad season. It was late in the evening when my housekeeper told me I had been called. I was tired, but… a birth is always a wonderful experience. I thought it would cheer me. [coughing]

I had a nurse with me, but the girl never came back to my office after that night.

Fifteen minutes, perhaps, for the cab to reach the museum from my house? I'm not certain, but I think so. The doorman was waiting for me. He led me to the room where they had poor Mrs. R███ laid out on a low table covered with…some canvas groundcloths, I think; to make her more comfortable.

Interviewer: What was her condition when you arrived?

Dr. Ehrenfeld: Thinking back now I should have realized…it was very bad. But I was young and had not much experience. She was quiet and only grunted with each contraction; she did not respond when I checked her vital signs and spoke to her. She did not even look at me. There was quite a bit of blood; a gush of it covered my hands as I reached down to begin helping her with the birth. The floor was slick with it underneath her. And the baby had not crowned yet; she was dilated well and the contractions were quite close together, and this made me fear she may be having a breech birth. I showed a calm face, though. I did not want to panic my nurse, or the researcher Doctor Merrill, who was nearby… a dignified older man. I believe I wanted to impress him.

[a pause, breathing sounds]

Interviewer: And then, doctor?

Dr. Ehrenfeld: I was concerned because of all the blood, that her life was in danger. I told her to push, and she was pushing…and my nurse helped her, putting downward pressure on the abdomen, as I attempted to manually aid the infant's emergence. I will spare you the details of a breech-birth procedure; it can be found in any obstetrics manual of the time.

I probed blindly and felt… I thought it was a coil of the umbilicus, perhaps tangled around the baby's neck. I almost withdrew, thinking that an episiotomy would be required, but she tore before I could proceed. There was more blood, and the baby began to emerge into my hands.

[a pause]

I had never seen such a thing. You are a researcher; do you know much of the common cephalic birth defects? This was uncommon. I thought at first that the infant must be stillborn. Its flesh was gray – not the vernix-covered gray of a normal birth, but lifeless and degraded. The smell of decay…

I recoiled, and the poor mother screamed on her last push, and the infant was delivered into my arms, with a great rush of hemorrhage. The deformity… unspeakable. The thoracic cavity was completely open, the limbs….

Interviewer: But it wasn't a stillbirth.

Dr. Ehrenfeld: It looked at me. I heard the nurse above me, beginning resuscitation attempts… then heard her gasp and falter as she saw what I held. Gagging as the smell filled the room. I tried to drop the creature, but it clung to my hands, I felt my skin begin to blister and crack.

Strange how clearly I can remember it. At my age, sometimes I cannot even remember what I had for dinner. The infant was almost double the length of a normal, viable fetus at eight months. Its lower body… segmented…

[coughing, almost choking; a pause of two minutes while the interviewer assists Dr. Ehrenfeld with a nearby oxygen mask.]

Interviewer: What did you do then?

Dr. Ehrenfeld: It began to laugh…and I killed it. [a pause] I broke its neck while it looked at me.

Interviewer: Were there ever any questions or consequences?

Dr. Ehrenfeld: [thin laughter] In 1942, with the country at war, and two respected professional men to give their testimony? No. The museum building had a furnace; I disposed of the infant's body myself. We claimed some more normal defect had taken the lives of mother and child. The husband was a drunkard and cared for nothing but her life-insurance policy. I believe he was drafted shortly thereafter, and died somewhere in France. And I left my practice almost immediately. I never delivered another child.

<End Log>

Closing Statement: Dr. Ehrenfeld expired four months later of pneumonia.

===

[The voice of the interviewer was provided by @phinnsy.] [The voice of Dr. David Ehrenfeld was provided by @navox-the-weary.]

===

[Enjoy the podcast? Consider supporting us on Patreon! Patrons get access to bonus Joke episodes, outtakes, and can even request episodes on specific SCP objects.]

[solrosan]

There are notes and a more readable version of the wiki page under the cut.

Notes

I imagine Merlin created this wikipage for the shop when he was bored one time

Later, Eggsy took over keeping it up-to-date

He’s the one who’s written the Swedish one too

This article exists in the same verse as Prince Gary’s wikipage

It’s heavily influenced by the Huntsman wikipage

I have written source [9] and [10]

Any errors and inconsistencies can be blamed on Wikipedia’s open editable model and not at all the fact that I can’t see straight anymore when I try to double check things

This article is written after 2022

Other Kingsman wiki pages can be found here

Kingsman Tailor Shop

Kingsman Tailor Shop (commonly known as Kingsman)[source?] is a high-end fashion house and tailor located at No. 11 Savile Row, London.[1] It is known for its English bespoke tailoring, cashmere ready-to-wear collections, and leather accessories.

Kingsman was founded in 1849 by Mark Millar.[2] Kingsman has been granted several royal warrants bestowed by British and European monarchs, including The Prince of Wales (later Edward VII), and Queen Victoria.[3] Kingsman is also one of the founders of the Savile Row Bespoke Association,[2] the trade body responsible for protecting and promoting the working practices of Savile Row.

History

In 1849, when Mr Mark Millar[2] founded Kingsman the tailor shop was located at No. 126 New Bond Street.[2] Millar’s tailoring house quickly gained a reputation for dressing the hunting and riding aristocracy of Europe and did so for much of the nineteenth century.[3] Kingsman still makes equestrian and sporting tailoring, but during the twentieth century the focus shifted more to formalwear.[2] The house's relationship with British royalty extends as far back as Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, who both patronised the house from its opening in 1849.[3] 

During World War I, Kingsman was a tailor to the military, producing dress uniforms for British officers throughout the war. Some of the ledger books remains, listing the names of each officer and their commissions, often with a note revealing their fate in the margins,[3] though most were destroyed by the gas explosion in 2017.[4]

By the end of the war, and with the third generation of the Millar family taking over, Kingsman moved to No. 11 Savile Row in 1919[2] just in time for the onset of the Roaring 20s. The Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII) was a customer during the 1920s[5] which prompted many to follow. It was during this time that Kingsman came to acquire the two stags' heads which were displayed in the shop for many years after they had been left by a customer who went out to lunch in 1921 and then never returned.[6]

In 1933, the Millar family passed on the firm to Mr Allard de Vere Drummond.[2] de Vere Drummond worked together with Head Cutter James Goldman until the mid-70’s, is said to have transformed "Kingsman's reputation from that of merely a reliable garment maker to a glamorous bespoke fashion house".[7] The two worked together at the shop until the 1970’s, ensuring Kingsman’s reputation as the most expensive Savile Row tailor.[6]

After World War II Kingsman Tailor Shop started apprenticeship programs for tailors and cutters.[8] They went on to become two of the most prominent apprenticeship programs in the United Kingdom; for cutters it’s even said to be the best in Europe.[7] Many of the tailors working on Savile Row today did their apprenticeship at Kingsman Tailor Shop.[8] One of the most notable apprentices is Prince Gary of Sweden who started the apprenticeship as a part of Kingsman’s social outreach program before marrying the Swedish heir apparent, Crown Princess Tilde.[9] Prince Gary came back to finish his apprenticeship four years into his marriage. Crown princess Tilde and Prince Gary met at Kingsman Tailor Shop in 2014.[10]

Even though Kingsman has been making womenswear since the very start, it took until 1972 before they employed their first female tailor. She had been part of the apprenticeship program as well. The first female cutter started 2014.[11]

Gas explosion

In September 2017 a gas explosion took out Kingsman Tailor Shop. Luckily, it was after business hours and no one was injured, but the entire building was destroyed. At first, the explosion was thought to be linked to the other ten other explosions around London that same day, but was upon further investigation it was determined to have been due to a gas explosion.[12]

The explosions, besides ruining the shop, also destroyed most of Kingsman’s records and archives, containing, for example, Mr Mark Millar’s own patterns and advertisements from when he first opened the store. Lost were also portraits and photographs of many of the shop’s patrons and tailors. A spokesperson for Savile Row Bespoke Association said that the explosion erased a huge part of the guild’s history.[4]

Recent developments

Following the gas explosions in September 2017, Kingsman Tailor Shop once again operated out of a location on New Bond Street while work was being done to rebuild the store on Savile Row. The temporary shop was lend to them by Gieves & Hawkes. Gieves & Hawkes stated in a press release that Savile Row would not be the same without Kingsman and that it was an honour to be able to help out colleagues in need.[13]

In July 2018 Kingsman Tailor Shop reopened No. 11 Savile Row. Present at the opening was, among others, the Swedish Crown Princess couple.[14]

Kingsman Whisky

 In 2017, Kingsman bought the Ochiltree distillery in Scotland, where they have started to produce Kingsman Whisky, which is a single malt Scotch.[15]

Clients

In 1886, the company earned its first royal warrant as Leather Breeches Maker to HRH the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII). This was followed by that of HRH Prince Albert, Duke of Saxe Coburg Gotha and Queen Victoria in 1888.[3] Other royal warrants include King Edward VIII, King George VI, and Queen Elisabeth II.[7]

Other customers are Winston Churchill, Rudolph Valentino, Lord Mountbatten, Gregory Peck, Clark Gable, Douglas Fairbanks Jr, Laurence Olivier, Ronald Reagan, Marc Jacobs, Lapo Elkann, Gianni Agnelli, Richmond Valentine, Prince William, Duke of Cambridge, and Crown Princess Tilde of Sweden.[7] Prince Gary of Sweden is also a frequent patron of Kingsman Tailor Shop and since 2022 he is the head tailor on all the Kingsman suits he wears. Prince Gary was also the head tailor for the Duke of Cambridge’s suit.[16]

Bespoke process

Although Kingsman’s suits retain what has been referred to as “their famous structured silhouette”[17] Kingsman's website notes that “our talented team can work to almost any brief”.[18]

As outlined on the Kingsman website, the process of placing an order begins with a consultation, during which the customer meets with their Bespoke Clients Manager, who discusses the customer's requirements for their suit, helping to finalise any stylistic decisions and their choice of fabric. A cutter will then measure-up the client (Kingsman takes an average of 30 different measures for a first suit) before this is drafted into the traditional paper pattern. This pattern is then chalked onto the customer's chosen cloth, which is in turn cut out. This will then be sewn together into the suit's raw three-dimensional form by a dedicated coat maker, ready for fitting. Kingsman produces all of its clothes in house, so every suit is produced by the same team.[17]

After the first fitting, the basted garment is then returned to its two-dimensional form and re-cut according to the refined pattern, after which a second fitting will take place to re-assess the garment's fit. More structure will be added to the garment at this stage, jacket sleeves will be set-in by hand and the suit's lining felled into the garment accordingly. Other hand-sewn elements will include all buttonholes, the trouser fly and any topstitching applied to the jacket and/or waistcoat lapels and pocket flaps - conforming to Savile Row Bespoke Association working standards.[18] Further alterations are carried out if required and a final fitting will take place. Each individual suit takes over eighty man-hours to produce.[17]

References

Kingsman Tailor Shop Website

About Kingsman, Kingsman Tailor Shop Website

James  Sherwood, Savile Row: The Master Tailors of British Bespoke, (Thames &  Hudson, 2010), p.62-67

Statement regarding the explosion on Savile Row (Press release)  Savile Row Bespoke Association

'Edward VIII  Portfolio', Kingsman Tailor Shop Website

Richard  Anderson, Bespoke: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed, (Simon & Schuster,  2009) p.106

Our Clients, Kingsman Tailor Shop Website

Apprenticeship, Kingsman Tailor Shop Website

“PRINCE GARY – ONE YEAR IN”, solrosan.tumblr.com

“A Tailor Made Life”, solrosan.tumblr.com

Simona  Roberts, Needlewoman, Seamstress, Tailor (Roberts, 2019) p. 92

“Suspect terrorist attack was gas leak”, The Sun

“Gieves & Hawkes helps competitor in time of need”, dailymail.co.uk.

"The Crown Princess Couple to attend reopening of Kingsman Tailor  Shop". (Press release) (in Swedish).Royal  Court of Sweden.

Kingsman Whisky, Kingsman Tailor Shop Website

“A Royal Suit”, The  Guardian

Bespoke Suits, Kingsman Tailor Shop Website

Bespoke Heritage, Kingsman Tailor Shop Website

[officialcatheridge]

Races of Catheridge: The Kanin

Here’s the first public draft of the Kanin, the iconic race of Catheridge! Check it out below the break! Note that their racial traits are geared for Pathfinder, and not D&D 5E.

Art is, of course, by @slightlysimian.

Kanin

“Pity? When wos it my concern when the fair people of Ironfar failed to protect their own borders? They got cursed; let ‘em wallow in it. Maybe next time they won’t keep all the money to ‘emselves!” ~Keaton Ericson, Novice Adventurer

The Kingdom of Ironfar was the center of human power in the otherwise wild and untamed land of Eurreach. A noble and just king once ruled it, though he was also overzealous and greedy, and made many enemies. The kingdom lived in prosperity and wealth for a great many years, and brought peace to the land, until a mysterious figure, known only as the Shadow Witch, appeared, and in a single coup, overran the city with an army of dark, shadowy creatures and killed the king.  She attempted to curse the people of the city into creatures of the woodland via a massive and powerful transmutation spell, but was forced to botch the ritual thanks to the young prince of the kingdom, who slammed into the Witch before she could finish the spell and barely fled the city with his sister and his life afterward.

And thus the kanin were made, the cursed people of Ironfar. The kanin still, to this day, seek to find a way to undo the curse upon them and their nation, and many travel the world, searching far and wide for a cure. While they are still humans at heart, their bodies are small and beast-like, and they search for a way to return themselves and their kingdom to its former glory, sometimes through any means necessary. At large, it is believed that a cure lies in the aurgems of Xer. Priceless coins minted during the ancient god-king’s rule and believed to be gifted with the power to grant any wish, regardless of the will of the gods or the mysterious laws of magic governing such power. As such, Ironfar seeks to gather every coin together to undo the curse upon them, for it seems to be their only hope of removing it.

Physical Description: Kanin resemble humanoid, walking, talking, woodland critters. They have small, furry bodies with large, round eyes, and simulate several small animals. By and large, most kanin look like hares or rabbits, with large, open ears, but ones that resemble squirrels, foxes, cats, and dogs, or any mix of all of the above (thanks to breeding) are not unheard of. They’re small in stature, hovering around three to three and a half feet in general. They have small, thin arms, but strong digitigrade legs, capable of propelling them great distances for creatures of their size. Their fur color ranges from whites, grays, browns, and blacks, with the occasional blonde or auburn among them. Their eyes speak of their human nature, bearing the same breadth of colors and shapes regular human might possess.

Kanin wear clothes that resemble regular human clothing, sized and shaped for their bodies. They favor breeches or shorts with tunics and vests made from simple cloth or leather. Most forgo shoes, due to the difficulty of crafting them for their altered legs and the padding on their feet being sufficient enough. Kanin armor is typically just metal plates and pieces strapped directly on their bodies, since their fur is sufficient enough insulation and prevents chafing. This allows the kanin to remain flexible even in armor.

Society: Kanin wander the entirety of Catheridge in search of the Xerian Aurgems, and as such tend to be traders, travelers, and adventurers. Some have pledged themselves as servants to wealthy nobles with the promise of receiving a single Aurgem for nearly a lifetime of servitude. That aside, most Kanin still reside in their homeland of Eurreach, in the city of Ironfar, working to maintain the peace and order the land, just as it was before their curse. Kanin have a chivalrous, friendly society, always eager to make friends instead of enemies, and gathering wealth for the betterment of their people instead of greed and excess. They recognize the king or queen of Ironfar as their sovereign lord, and each one since the creation of the race has always encouraged their people to find the Aurgems and bring happiness to those around them.

Kanin tend to either travel alone or in groups, hoping to trade goods and services in exchange for Aurgems, while others delve lost tombs and ruins, hoping to find caches and chests of Xer’s lost treasures. They always maintain a hopeful, bright, and endearing attitude. This combined with the general charming appearance of their bodies makes them a remarkably hard race to hate or turn down.

Relations: Kanin try not to make enemies, and try and keep trade open and honorable between all the races of the land. Fauns and High Fey tend to find them adorable. Garoh find sympathy in their plight, but can do little to help them. Centaurs remember that they are still humans on the inside, and remain indifferent to them. Minotaurs view them as barely more than snacks. Nagakin have an interesting relationship with them, to say the least, considering that their kingdoms and empires contain a fair amount of Aurgems hidden away in their coffers. Paeraens sympathize with the kanin, and generally try and help them whenever they can.

Alignment & Religion: Many kanin are friendly, determined, and chivalrous, hell-bent on removing the curse on them and regaining their humanity. As a result, most Kanin are good in alignment, but do swing between lawful and chaotic. Some kanin have no interest in removing their curse and do attempt to just live out their lives in neutrality.

Adventurers: Many kanin take up dangerous jobs, scouring the far reaches for a dead currency that used to be traded across the world, while others pursue knighthood and attempt to bring unity to the scattered races and countries of Catheridge, and take up heavy arms and armor, despite their small, weak bodies. Kanin are well suited to being bards or rogues, but many also do become fighters, paladins, and clerics.

Playing a Kanin: In broad strokes, kanin on the whole tend to be brave, hopeful, and even heroic. As a kanin, you have a small body, but a big heart. You know at your core that you’re human, though you look nothing like one. Despite the fact that there isn’t a living kanin today who was human before the Shadow Witch, when you look at a human you feel a sense of kinship and familiarity, perhaps even longing. You should be able to easily share a drink and hold a conversation with a human from your city, town or even country. You instinctively know that you should be human, but something is wrong. You feel the magic tainting your veins and you know it’s not natural. It’s not an uncomfortable feeling, physically, but the reminders are there and they are constant. Use this facet as fuel for your character. How do you feel about the curse and what do you want to do to resolve it, if anything? Have you brushed up on your history and do you feel Ironfar got what it deserved? Do you wish to make things right, or do you just want to live out your life as best you can, being as ambitious as any other human?

Male Names: Barrus, Ector, Lance, Hayes, Oswald, Ransford, Shaw, Vaynard,

Female Names: Ariana, Cai, Elaine, Fiona, Gwen, Kyla, Leigh, Tavia,

Racial Traits

Ability Score Racial Traits: +4 Dexterity, +2 Charisma, -2 Strength, -2 Constitution. Kanin are remarkably swift and endearingly hopeful, but frail and weak due to their small bodies.

Type: Kanin are Humanoids with the Human and Shapechanger subtype.

Size: Kanin are Small creatures and gain a +1 size bonus to their AC, a +1 size bonus on attack rolls, a –1 penalty to their CMB and CMD, and a +4 size bonus on Stealth checks.

Base Speed: Kanin are fast for their size and have a base speed of 30 feet.

Low-Light Vision: Kanin can see twice as far as humans in conditions of dim lighting.

Shred of Humanity: Kanin hold fast to their humanity, despite their bodies and the often-encroaching animalistic instincts granted to them by their curse. On character creation, choose either to receive a bonus feat at first level, or an extra skill rank each level. Once made, this choice cannot be changed.

Body of Prey: Kanin receive a +2 Racial Bonus to Acrobatics and Perception skill checks and treat both skills as class skills.

Cursed Body: The kanin race are the result of a dark witch’s (botched) curse, and as such their bodies bear this curse from generation to generation. Transmutation spells with the polymorph subschool, such as alter self, polymorph, beast form, etc., as well as spells that would undo or dispel such magic (though only in regards to returning them to a human form), automatically fail to function on a Kanin.

Languages: Kanin begin play knowing Common. Kanin with high Intelligence scores can learn any language they please.

What Your Traits Mean for You

Ability Scores: The curse on your body was long ago meant to transform you and the rest of the citizenry of Ironfar into small woodland creatures of prey; rabbits, squirrels, mice, weasels, raccoons, and the like, with the occasional fox, cat, and dog in the mix. Among the most common traits of all these creatures is their remarkable dexterity. All kanin are just naturally agile, and are born and raised learning how to use their bodies. Of course, another thing these animals have in common is their general frailty and lack of raw power. A human will have little to no issue punting a kanin across a small room, and that kanin is going need some time to recover from the resultant injuries. Your body will break much more easily than others, and your small frame simply cannot hold in much musculature. A kanin’s bonus to charisma stems more from a cultural change if anything. Sure, you look cute. A small, walking bunny rabbit in little clothes with bright eyes has undeniable appeal for most people, but looks alone only contribute little to charisma and confidence. Before the turning of the age, Ironfar and the newly formed kanin were at the center-stage as the world turned and changed around them. It was Ironfar and the kanin who united all of Eurreach and Catheridge together to combat a common enemy and survive the apocalypse. It was the kanin of Ironfar that kept the peace and helped the world settle down after the changes. As a result, the kanin naturally became better ambassadors and newborns grow up learning how to deal with and talk to strangers, and put on a good impression. Not all kanin embrace this approach, of course, but their culture ensures that very few kanin are shy or bad with words.

Type: Kanin have the shapechanger subtype as a result of their curse. The Shadow Witch was nothing if not exacting in that this was how she wanted the people of Ironfar to live out the rest of their lives. It is very hard for kanin to become a not-kanin and stay that way. The Shapechanger subtype simply enforces this rule.

Base Speed: Most small playable races have a base speed of 20 for their size, but a kanin’s bestial leg structure ensures that they move just a swiftly as any other human. Kanin typically move in bounding, hopping or skipping strides, easily covering the height of their body in a single step. Always remember that you’re small and fast, as its one of the few mercies you’re afforded with your body.

Shred of Humanity: The Shadow Witch’s curse has left you and your people less than human. And the part of humanity left in you is something you cling onto jealously. It should be something that drives you forward, reminds you of what you are. Remember you are human. The Witch’s spell has left you plagued with the occasional instinctual thought, the urge to flee from danger, every kanin deals with these instincts, and it’s your shred of humanity that keeps you cognizant. It is your shred of humanity that sets you apart from being a simple “beast race.” You still have the potential to be skilled and talented, but your body and instincts hold you back from being as flexible and skilled as a regular human.

Body of Prey: While you indeed stand upright, have the capacity to use tools, and are quite intelligent, there is no denying that you are small, you are weak, and you would make a very tasty meal for a pack of wolves. The animal part of your curse has instilled in you the instincts of a creature of prey, when answering the flight or fight response, your instincts usually tell you to take flight. Whether or not you do is entirely up to you, but most kanin are subconsciously on the lookout for danger, and are physically ready and able to run, scamper, jump, and climb to safety, regardless of their chosen profession.

Cursed Body: The Kanin curse is just that, a curse, and while mechanically it does give quite a few “benefits,” there are drawbacks to it as well. The curse emotionally and psychologically devastated the people of Ironfar at its conception. Not only did they lose their city and the bulk of their army to the Shadow Witch’s invasion, but they were then turned into small, weak, bestial creatures, who now have to look up to any other creature they meet. Kanin have to worry about being overlooked, tripped on, hunted by animals, and treated as lower class citizens or not worthy of attention among other societies. On top of this, the curse has “firewalls” in place that prevent it from being easily dispelled or changed. In addition to being unable to benefit from any polymorphing spell, spells that also remove or cure spell effects fail to restore a kanin to human as well. Indeed, not even Wish or Miracle can or has cured the Kanin Curse. Ironically, the curse has made kanin immune to the very spell that was used against them, Baleful Polymorph. Let it never be said there isn’t a silver lining. As a side note, the curse only directly affects spells and spell-like abilities. Extraordinary and Supernatural Abilities, such as a druid’s Wild Shape, still work as intended.

[salesagility-blog]

The GDPR and You

The GDPR will be coming into effect on the 25th May 2018 but what is it?

There is a lot of confusion and fear surrounding this new regulation. The clock is ticking so now is the time to straighten things out and get to grips with the GDPR to ensure you are fully compliant. The European Commission released a proposal  of the GDPR framework in 2012. This has   since created much worry within the EU, with most Countries debating and negotiating their own agenda for the final draft.  In our modern society there is data around everything that we do and we leave data trails wherever we go. That is why it was paramount that the European Commission were thorough in their decisions,  considering every possibility, every individual and every country and the effects and impact this would have on peoples lives and their economy. One slight overlook could cause total devastation. With the process taking over 6 years from start to its implementation before the regulation comes into force there has been plenty of time for the European Commission to address any concerns that have been highlighted.

So back to the point in hand, what is the GDPR? The General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) is a new set of data security regulations and will affect any organisation that handles or processes EU citizen data regardless of where the  said organisation is based in the world . Previous to the GDPR, countries were responsible for their own data protection, there were directives from Brussels which they could pick and choose what parts they wanted to implement. However when the GDPR  comes into force all countries within the EU will be bound by the same regulations creating data equality throughout the EU like never before. As part of the new regulation you will be required to provide proof that you are adequately handling and protecting any personal data  you hold. All companies are responsible for ensuring they are working within these regulations and if they are not they will be heavily fined.

With the GDPR rapidly approaching what better time to introduce a CRM system into your business. A CRM system can help you manage many aspects of the GDPR with ease so there really is no need to panic. Here are just a few points on how a CRM system can help you manage your data in order to comply with the GDPR :

Consent – A CRM system can provide multi point consent tracking, which includes the time, date and even recordings of any phone calls as well as the tracking of any emails sent and any links contained links within said emails. All the information related to each record and the consent received is there for you, this saves time and confusion and also makes it easy to provide evidence of your procedures to your DPO or any other authority that requires proof of consent.

Storage – With a CRM system you can store your data securely. CRMs usually come equipped with anti-hacking software, you can also install passwords so you can choose who has access.

Accuracy – A CRM system can ensure accuracy regarding all aspects of your data. A CRM can use various different data validation applications, third party validation through address checking or email pinging at the point of collection. This ensures the maintenance of a single users records within a central database to ensure consistency. There is no room for mistakes or complacency when the GDPR comes in to play, consistency is key.

Integrity and Confidentiality – With confidentiality being pretty much the focal point of the GDPR it is extremely important. A CRM system protects your sensitive information by password and data can be encrypted. Data can be updated and cleaned on a regular basis to be extra careful. Your CRM system can also automate the removal of data after a certain period of time as per the new regulation, eliminating the risk of human error.

Access Request and Right to be Forgotten – Rather than spending time looking for the correct information a CRM system will allow you access to information or data upon request. Also, a CRM system enables the deletion of data using the one central source rather than having to go through different  systems or files in order to find or  delete  data. This both saves time and eliminates error.

Reduce Data Breeches – With restricted access, passwords and data encryption all available a CRM is a  safe and secure place to store your data. Furthermore it’s a wonderful tool to help you manage it with ease.

SuiteCRM has all this functionality and much, much more. With the GDPR getting ever closer there is no need to panic yet but don't stick your head in the sand either, why not download SuiteCRM today? SuiteCRM can help make some of the processes required by the GDPR easier to implement and make it stress free and easier to manage. If you would like a more comprehensive and detailed overview of the GDPR feel free to download our GDPR White Paper. https://marketing.suitecrm.com/gdpr/gdpr

If we can help you or you have have any questions regarding the GDPR or SuiteCRM then please contact me at amelia.campbell@salesagility.com

[whump-me-home]

whump intro post

hi I'm keter, I'm an autistic transmasc uni student, and I have a fixation on horror and pain based writings. my pronouns are he/co/it/void

Things to avoid on my blog (personal triggers): unreality, the nuclear waste disposal site warning message, liminal spaces

Favorite whump tropes:

begging

dehumanization

psychological manipulation

non-human whumpees

whumpees just getting the ever loving fuck beat out of them

manhandling

n0nc0n

huge sucker for the recovery

captivity

intimate whumper

etc etc

Special interest: my current dnd campaign, Tolkien's Legendarium

Favorite topics that don't quite count as special interests: virology and disease in general, psychology (especially how it can be incorporated into whump), solar flares

If you want something tagged, send me an ask and as long as it's within reason I'll get done for you

<list of cw tags>

my memory fails me on favorite whump blogs, but one in particular that I draw inspiration from is @the-three-whumpeteers hi!! I'm the 🐝 anon! I finally made a blog!!

(ps if I'm reblogging like a whole lot of old posts of yours, I'm cleaning out the drafts of a side blog where I previously kept all the whump content I consume)